Assorted Large Oranda Goldfish (Carassius auratus)

Choose a large oranda goldfish with its hood already forming

A large oranda goldfish is the quickest way to enjoy the look that makes this fancy goldfish so popular: a round, deep body, a long double tail and the soft, raised hood that grows over the head. This listing is for an assorted oranda of 8–10 cm, a fish already past the tiny juvenile stage, in a colour picked from the orandas we have available at the time. Every goldfish, from the plainest pond comet to the most elaborate oranda, belongs to one species, Carassius auratus, in the carp family Cyprinidae.

Goldfish are among the oldest domesticated fish. Reviewing the research, Omori and Kon (2019) place their domestication in southern China around 1,000 years ago and count at least 180 varieties, about 70 of them genetically established strains. Chen and colleagues (2020) compared the genomes of 185 goldfish varieties with 16 wild crucian carp to trace that history. The oranda is one of the hooded varieties; its Japanese name, Oranda shishigashira, translates as "Dutch lionhead", according to Wikipedia's summary.

Recognise an oranda at a glance

British goldfish shows sort varieties by shape. Under the Nationwide Standards reported by Practical Fishkeeping, the oranda sits in Group 3, round-bodied fish with a long double tail, while the lionhead sits in Group 4, round-bodied fish with no dorsal fin and a short double tail. That dorsal fin is the quickest way to tell an oranda from a lionhead or ranchu.

Browse every hooded variety in our oranda and fancy goldfish category, the wider goldfish and coldwater fish range and the goldfish category, or see all our cold water fish for sale.

Know what an assorted oranda means for your order

One purchase supplies one live oranda in the 8–10 cm size band. "Assorted" means the colour is not chosen: we send a healthy oranda from those available. FishBase lists the colours of cultured goldfish as scarlet, red-pink, silver, brown, white and black, plus combinations of these, so yours could be a single colour or a patchwork. The photographs show one example, an orange fish with a white hood flecked with orange; treat them as a guide to the variety, not as a picture of the fish you will receive.

• Size: 8–10 cm when sold; expect some variation within the band.
• Sex: not chosen. OATA notes that in spring and summer adult males develop small white tubercles on the gill covers and pectoral fins, while females look deeper-bodied, so sexing a young fish is guesswork.
• Hood: at this size the head growth has normally started, and it keeps developing as the fish matures.

Prefer a set colour? Choose a named oranda

If you want a particular colour, pick one of our named orandas instead: the Red Oranda, the Blue Oranda or the Red and Black Oranda. Read our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee information before you order, and have the aquarium matured and running before the fish arrives.

Plan the aquarium for a 20–30 cm adult

Sources disagree on how big orandas grow, so plan generously. OATA, the UK ornamental fish trade association, says fancy goldfish are unlikely to exceed 20 cm. Practical Fishkeeping gives 20–31 cm for orandas and mentions one fish that passed 37 cm. FishBase records 48 cm total length as the maximum for the species, but that record covers long-bodied goldfish as well as fancies. An 8–10 cm oranda still has a lot of growing to do, and OATA says a well-kept fancy goldfish typically lives six to eight years, with some passing 20.

Work out the volume before you buy

OATA's rule is 100 litres for the first adult and 50 litres for each one after that, and it advises buying the largest aquarium you reasonably can. Practical Fishkeeping adds a shape check: the tank should be at least six times as long as an adult fish and twice as wide as the fish is long. For a 20 cm oranda that means a base of at least 120 × 40 cm. Our tank volume calculator turns your measurements into litres, and the stocking calculator checks the whole group at adult size.

Give the hood a soft, open layout

Orandas are slow, deliberate swimmers with long fins and a hood that marks easily, so the layout should be about open space and smooth surfaces. OATA recommends gravel or sand, warns against ornaments and artificial plants with sharp or rough edges that can damage long fins and eyes, and suggests plant pots, caves or plastic plants where live plants would simply be eaten.

Choose each item by texture

Live plants are ideal, says OATA, but goldfish eat them, so ask us which plants will cope before you buy. Browse our aquarium plants and the beginner’s guide to live plants, and expect to replace soft-leaved plants from time to time. Overhead lighting gives the fish a regular day and night.

Keep cool, clean water in the goldfish range

Orandas are coldwater fish, and in most UK homes they need no heater. OATA gives an overall range of 4–25°C with 15–23°C as the ideal, and says fancy goldfish can adjust to a wider range over time if changes are made slowly. Sudden swings are the real risk, so place the aquarium away from radiators, windows and outside doors.

Check every reading against these targets

Most UK mains water suits goldfish once it is treated with a conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine, as OATA advises for every water change. Hard, alkaline water is common across much of southern and eastern England, while parts of Scotland, Wales and north-west England are softer; your water company publishes a free water-quality report for your postcode. Enter your readings in our water matcher, read our water chemistry guide for what each number means, and find conditioners in our water care range.

Filter strongly but keep the flow gentle

Goldfish eat heartily and produce a lot of waste, and Practical Fishkeeping calls good filtration essential because of that waste and the fish's oxygen demand. The same article warns that fancy goldfish are poor swimmers, so the current must stay moderate; its own display ran two large external filters with the outlets angled to ripple the surface. OATA likewise asks for a gentle current, ideally spread through a spray bar.

Follow a weekly routine

1. Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and note the results.
2. Change at least 25% of the water, the weekly figure OATA recommends; Practical Fishkeeping suggests two or three changes of about a third each week for fancy goldfish.
3. Siphon the gravel to lift droppings and uneaten food.
4. Check the filter for blockages and make sure the flow has not dropped.
5. Rinse filter media only in water taken from the aquarium, never under the tap, to protect the useful bacteria.

Our article on understanding aquarium filtration explains how to size a filter, and the nitrogen cycle explained shows why a new aquarium must mature before fish go in.

Feed measured meals of goldfish food

In the wild, goldfish eat plankton, small bottom-living invertebrates, plant material and detritus, according to FishBase. OATA recommends a goldfish-specific flake, granule or pellet as the staple because goldfish need more carbohydrate than many aquarium fish, with live or frozen foods and vegetables as extras. Feed once a day, only as much as the fish clear within a few minutes; leftovers rot and release toxic waste.

Build a week of meals

• Staple: Tropical Goldfish Pellet or Super Goldfish Mini Sticks, offered as a small, measured pinch.
• Plant matter: blanched lettuce and thawed, shelled peas, both suggested by OATA.
• Frozen variety: Koi and Goldfish Special Frozen or Frozen Daphnia once or twice a week.
• Treats: bloodworm or brine shrimp, kept occasional.

OATA notes that some goldfish gulp air while snatching food at the surface and then struggle to stay level for a while. If your oranda floats or tilts after meals, try a slow-sinking food or a different food, as OATA suggests. Our article on why a fish swims sideways covers other causes of balance problems.

Settle your oranda in calmly

Add a new oranda only to a matured aquarium with ammonia and nitrite at zero; OATA warns that stocking too quickly causes "new tank syndrome". Use the floating-bag method: turn the aquarium lights off, float the sealed bag for about 10 minutes, add small amounts of aquarium water to the bag over up to 20 minutes, then release the fish with as little bag water as possible. Our guide on how to acclimatise new fish walks through each step.

Use first-week checkpoints

Choose companions that move at an oranda's pace

OATA says fancy goldfish can be kept alone or with other fancy goldfish, and advises against mixing them with common goldfish, which are faster, outcompete them for food and sometimes nip their fins. FishBase's aquarium note for the species suggests groups of five or more in a tank at least 100 cm long, so if you have the space, a small group of fancies is the more natural choice. Practical Fishkeeping adds that telescope-eyed goldfish, which see poorly, should not be mixed with more active varieties.

Screen each tank mate

Single-tailed goldfish such as the Bronzed Comet belong in a separate, larger aquarium or a pond; our comet goldfish guide explains their very different needs. Check any combination with our tank mates tool.

Look after the hood and spot problems early

The hood is living tissue. A 2025 study by Li and colleagues found it is a thickening of the skin, made of collagen-rich layers and extra skin cells and held on small bony growths that develop on the skull; they class it as a form of skin fibrosis rather than the tumour it was long thought to be. Its folds can trap debris, and a welfare report covered by Practical Fishkeeping notes that hooded goldfish may develop bacterial and fungal infections there. Clean water and smooth décor are the best protection.

Match each sign with an action

OATA's checklist for a healthy goldfish is clear, bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcers or lumps, normal swimming and steady breathing. Test first when something changes: most problems follow a dip in water quality.

Breed orandas in a large home aquarium

OATA says goldfish can breed in a large home aquarium, and that two males to each female improves the odds. Raising the temperature slowly to about 20°C, and then making a partial water change, often triggers spawning. The males chase the female, the eggs are scattered over plants or a spawning mop, and the eggs should be moved to a separate tank because adults eat eggs and fry. They hatch in about three days, and the fry need a dedicated set-up and specialist fry food. Never release goldfish, their eggs or aquarium water into ponds, rivers or drains: FishBase lists the species as a potential pest where it has been introduced.

Answer large oranda buying questions

How big will a large oranda goldfish grow?

Sources differ. OATA says fancy goldfish are unlikely to grow beyond about 20 cm, while Practical Fishkeeping gives 20–31 cm for orandas and mentions one of more than 37 cm. Plan the aquarium for a fish of at least 20 cm.

Can I choose the colour of an assorted oranda?

No. Each fish is picked from the orandas available at the time, so colour and pattern are not chosen. For a set colour, choose a named oranda such as our Red Oranda, Blue Oranda or Red and Black Oranda.

Does an oranda need a heater?

Not usually. OATA gives an ideal range of 15–23°C and says a heater is only needed if the room is very cold. Keep the aquarium away from radiators, draughts and direct sunlight so the temperature stays steady.

How many orandas fit in a 200-litre aquarium?

Using OATA’s guide of 100 litres for the first adult fancy goldfish and 50 litres for each extra one, a 200-litre aquarium suits three adults. Check the real volume of your tank with our tank volume calculator first.

Can a large oranda live in a garden pond?

OATA advises keeping fancy goldfish in indoor aquariums only. Orandas are slow swimmers and are sensitive to low temperatures, so a UK pond through the winter does not suit them.

Will the hood keep growing?

Yes, for some time. Practical Fishkeeping says the head growth of young orandas takes one to two years to develop. At 8–10 cm the hood has normally started, and it fills out further as the fish matures; the final size varies from fish to fish.

What is the hood made of?

A 2025 study by Li and colleagues found the hood is thickened skin, built from collagen-rich layers and extra skin cells, held on small bony growths on the skull. It is not a tumour, but its folds can trap debris, so clean water matters.

Can a large oranda live with comet goldfish?

It is better not to. OATA advises against mixing fancy goldfish with common goldfish, which are faster, take most of the food and sometimes nip fins. Keep comets and other single-tailed goldfish in a separate, larger set-up.

Check the sources behind this guide

• OATA: How to look after fancy goldfish — UK trade guidance on water values, aquarium size, décor, feeding, tank mates, acclimatisation, health checks and breeding.
• FishBase: Carassius auratus — species record: maximum size and age, water ranges, native range, wild diet, cultured colours and aquarium group size.
• Practical Fishkeeping: How to get fancy with goldfish — oranda and ranchu sizes, hood development, tank-size rule, filtration and water-change advice for fancy goldfish.
• Practical Fishkeeping: First Nationwide Goldfish Open Show — the Nationwide show groups that separate orandas from lionheads.
• Practical Fishkeeping: The end for fancy goldfish? — welfare report on fancy goldfish, including infections in the folds of the hood.
• Omori & Kon 2019, Journal of Biochemistry 165: 209–218 — review of goldfish domestication in southern China and the number of varieties and strains.
• Chen et al. 2020, PNAS 117: 29775–29785 — goldfish genome and the domestication history traced from 185 varieties and wild crucian carp.
• Li et al. 2025, Research 8: 0786 — study of how the goldfish hood forms: collagen-rich skin layers and bony growths on the skull.
• Wikipedia: Oranda — summary of the oranda: the meaning of its Japanese name, colour forms and sensitivity to cold.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy — current dispatch days and Live Arrival Guarantee terms.