
Red and Black Telescope Moor Goldfish (Carassius auratus)
4–25°C · pH 6.5–8.5 · 100L
The Calico Telescope Moor is a calico telescope goldfish (Carassius auratus) with protruding eyes, a short round body and a twin tail, patterned in blue-grey, orange, white and black so that every fish is different. Keep it in an unheated indoor aquarium of at least 100 litres with smooth decor and other slow fancy goldfish. One live 4–5 cm fish per purchase.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Carassius auratus
Quantity discounts are pricing offers, not a group-size recommendation. Check the full care guidance and your existing animals before choosing a quantity.
The Calico Telescope Moor is a calico telescope goldfish (Carassius auratus) with protruding eyes, a short round body and a twin tail, patterned in blue-grey, orange, white and black so that every fish is different. Keep it in an unheated indoor aquarium of at least 100 litres with smooth decor and other slow fancy goldfish. One live 4–5 cm fish per purchase.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Read the full care guidance when planning conditions for your aquarium.
The Calico Telescope Moor is a calico telescope goldfish: a fancy Carassius auratus with protruding eyes, a short, rounded body and a divided twin tail, painted in a patchwork of blue-grey, orange, white and black. No two calicos carry the same pattern, so each fish is a one-off.
Telescope-eyed goldfish are known as dragon eyes in the Far East, where the Bristol Aquarists’ Society reports that they first appeared around 1592. The protruding eye is inherited as a recessive trait, which a 2025 study linked to the LRP2 gene. Calico is one of the two colour groups that the UK globe eye (telescope) standard accepts, alongside metallic black, so this colour form has a recognised place in British shows. The trade name “moor” is the only loose fit: the UK Moor standard is for black fish alone.
| Colour in the standard | Where it usually shows |
|---|---|
| Blue background | The base colour of the body, often seen as blue-grey or slate |
| Red, orange, yellow and brown patches | In irregular patches over the body, head and fins |
| White | Areas between the coloured patches, often on the belly and fins |
| Violet | Named in the standard as one of the patch colours |
| Black spots | Scattered over body and fins; in quality fish the colour extends into the finnage |
The society also notes that Chinese calico telescopes differ from the British ideal, which calls for a taller dorsal fin and longer, more pointed paired and anal fins. Pet-quality fish are not bred to a show standard, so fin length and shape vary from fish to fish.
Goldfish colour depends not only on pigment but on what lies beneath each transparent scale. The Bristol Aquarists’ Society describes three scale types, and calico is defined by its mixture of them.
| Scale type | What makes it | How it looks |
|---|---|---|
| Metallic | A reflective guanine layer under the scales | Shiny and mirror-like, as on a red or black goldfish |
| Nacreous | Guanine only partly present | A soft, mother-of-pearl sheen |
| Matt | No guanine layer | Flat, without shine |
A calico has mostly matt scales, some nacreous scales and only a few reflective ones. That is why its colours look softer than those of a shiny metallic goldfish, and why the blue tones show through at all. If you prefer bold, solid colour, compare our Red and Black Telescope Moor.
The society explains that most goldfish start life dark and change as they lose black pigment cells, while some types keep theirs into adulthood. It also notes that light is the most important outside influence on colour: dim surroundings give a washed-out fish, and good lighting gives saturated colour. Diet has a smaller effect. On a young calico the balance of orange, blue and black can still change as it grows, so we cannot promise that the pattern will stay as it is on arrival.
One purchase is one live Calico Telescope Moor of about 4–5 cm. At that size the fish is young: the UK standard sets a minimum body length of 5.5 cm before a telescope is judged, and the eyes, body and tail are still filling out. Sex is not specified. OATA notes that adult males show small white tubercles on the gill covers and pectoral fins in spring and summer, and females have deeper bodies, but these signs appear with maturity.
The images on this page show the calico telescope colour form and are based on a reference picture. They do not show the fish you will receive, which will have its own unique pattern.
Each unit you add to the basket is one more fish. Before ordering several, total up the space that the adults will need using our stocking calculator, and remember any fish already living in the tank.
A telescope sold at 4–5 cm grows to about 20 cm. That is OATA’s figure for fancy goldfish, and Practical Fishkeeping gives the same body length for telescopes, before the fins are counted. The published space guidance differs, so it is worth seeing the figures side by side.
| Source | Space guidance |
|---|---|
| OATA | At least 100 litres for one adult, plus 50 litres for each additional adult |
| RSPCA | At least 60 litres per goldfish; no bowls or small decorative tanks |
| Practical Fishkeeping | At least 120 × 60 cm of floor space for three adult telescopes |
| FishBase | Aquariums of 100 cm or longer for the species |
For two adults, OATA’s rule gives 150 litres, against the RSPCA’s 120 litres. Plan for the higher number, and choose a long, wide tank over a tall one: Practical Fishkeeping says depth matters little, and the RSPCA notes that wide tanks exchange oxygen better.
A calico telescope cannot pull its eyes out of the way. OATA warns against decor with sharp or rough edges, which can damage delicate eyes and fins, and Practical Fishkeeping says the same about sharp ornaments and spiky plants. A plain, open layout also shows off the pattern better than a crowded one.
OATA’s fancy goldfish values are the ones to follow. FishBase gives the species a pH of 6.0–8.0 and hardness of 5–19 dH, and the RSPCA gives 10–21°C, so all three sources agree on a cool, moderately hard, near-neutral to alkaline water.
| Reading | Target |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 4–25°C, best 15–23°C (OATA); 10–21°C (RSPCA) |
| pH | 6.5–8.5 |
| General hardness | 8–18 dGH |
| Carbonate hardness | 5–15 dKH |
| Ammonia | 0 mg/l |
| Nitrite | 0 mg/l |
| Nitrate | No more than 20 mg/l above tap water |
Our article on water chemistry explained covers what each reading tells you. A heater is not normally needed; OATA suggests one only for a very cold room.
Every goldfish tank needs a filter, OATA says, but fancy goldfish do best in gentle flow, so turn the output down or spread it with a spray bar. Practical Fishkeeping suggests an external filter rated at 1,000 litres per hour or more for telescopes, an airstone for extra oxygen and activated carbon against the smell that goldfish tanks can develop.
If the aquarium is new, cycle it before the fish arrives. The RSPCA advises fishless cycling for at least two weeks; our guide to cycling a new aquarium sets out the method.
OATA recommends a goldfish-specific flake, granule or pellet, because goldfish need more carbohydrate than many other fish, and asks keepers to feed only what is eaten within a few minutes, once a day. Practical Fishkeeping suggests sinking goldfish pellets for telescopes, so the food comes to rest where a slow fish can find it. For variety, OATA lists daphnia, bloodworm, brine shrimp, aquatic plants, blanched lettuce and thawed, shelled peas.
| Meal | What to give |
|---|---|
| Most days | A small portion of Tropical Goldfish Pellet or another sinking goldfish food |
| Some days | Thawed frozen daphnia blister packs, bloodworm or brine shrimp in place of part of the pellets |
| Now and then | A few thawed, shelled peas or a little blanched lettuce |
If the fish gulps air and floats or tilts after a meal, OATA suggests switching to a different or slow-sinking food. Our article on swimming sideways explains other causes to rule out.
OATA asks you to check that ammonia and nitrite read zero before adding fish, to add fish a few at a time so the filter is not overwhelmed, and to keep a close eye on newcomers for the first week. Avoid buying any fish from a tank where others look unwell.
| Stage | Action |
|---|---|
| Unpacking | Lights off. Float the sealed bag for about 10 minutes, then mix in tank water a little at a time over up to 20 minutes. |
| Release | Net the fish into the aquarium and throw away the bag water rather than tipping it in. |
| First few days | Feed lightly, test ammonia and nitrite more often, and watch breathing and balance. |
| After a week | Return to the normal weekly routine if the readings are clean and the fish is feeding. |
For more detail see our guide on how to acclimatise new fish, and read our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee terms before you order.
A calico’s mottled colouring can hide small changes, so look closely during your daily check. OATA’s warning signs are: hanging at the surface or sitting on the bottom, colour unusually dark or pale, faster or slower breathing, white spots, fluffy growths, damaged fins or missing scales, clamped fins, rubbing against objects, change in weight and reduced appetite.
| Observation | What to do first |
|---|---|
| A cloudy or grazed eye | Find the rough surface and remove it; keep the water spotless |
| Frayed or shrinking fin edges | Test the water; see our guide to fin rot |
| Fluffy white tufts | Test the water and seek advice from an experienced retailer before treating |
| Rapid gill movement | Test ammonia and nitrite and change water if either is above zero |
| Floating after feeding | Use slow-sinking food and smaller portions |
Telescope-eyed goldfish are reported to have thinner retinas than normal-eyed goldfish, according to research summarised in a 2025 study, so protecting the eyes is the most valuable thing you can do.
OATA says fancy goldfish can live alone or with other fancy goldfish, but advises against common goldfish, which are faster, take most of the food and sometimes nip fins. The RSPCA gives the same advice about mixing single- and twin-tailed goldfish and says a goldfish can be kept on its own. FishBase suggests groups of five or more, so sources differ; a single calico is fine, and a group simply needs more space.
| Good matches | Poor matches |
|---|---|
| Other telescopes and moors, such as our Black Moor | Common goldfish, comets and shubunkins: see our comet goldfish guide for their own needs |
| Ryukins and fantails, such as the Red and White Ryukin | Fish that nip fins |
| Orandas such as the Blue Oranda and Red and Black Oranda | Tropical fish that need a heated tank |
Use our tank mates tool to check a planned group, and browse the whole fancy goldfish range or our wider goldfish and coldwater fish collection for companions.
OATA recommends attempting goldfish breeding in a large home aquarium, with two males for each female. Warming the water slowly to about 20°C, often after a partial water change, usually triggers spawning. The eggs stick to plants or a spawning mop, which should go into a separate tank because the parents eat eggs and fry; they usually hatch in about three days. Telescope eyes are recessive, so young only show them when both parents pass the trait on. Rearing fry needs a dedicated set-up and specialist fry food, and you will need homes for the young.
A fancy goldfish, Carassius auratus, with protruding telescope eyes, a short rounded body and a divided double tail, coloured calico: a bluish background with patches of orange, red, white and other colours, spotted with black. It is sold in the trade as a Calico Telescope Moor.
Calico describes a mix of colours and scale types. The Bristol Aquarists’ Society explains that calico fish have mostly matt (non-reflective) scales, some nacreous (pearly) scales and only a few metallic ones, which gives the soft, mottled look.
Yes. The UK globe eye (telescope) standard accepts calico as well as metallic black. The trade name “moor” is the only part that does not fit, because the UK Moor standard is black only.
No two calicos are alike. The pictures show the colour form, not your fish, and the pattern on a young fish can still develop as it grows. Good lighting brings out the colours most strongly.
About 20 cm, according to OATA’s figure for fancy goldfish and Practical Fishkeeping’s figure for telescope body length, not counting the fins. You receive a young fish of about 4–5 cm.
OATA advises at least 100 litres for one adult fancy goldfish and 50 litres for each additional adult. The RSPCA gives 60 litres per goldfish, and Practical Fishkeeping suggests 120 × 60 cm for three adult telescopes.
Unheated room temperature in most homes. OATA gives 4–25°C with 15–23°C as the best range; the RSPCA gives 10–21°C. A heater is only needed in a very cold room.
No. OATA and the RSPCA both advise keeping slow twin-tailed goldfish apart from fast single-tailed ones, which take the food and may nip fins. Choose other telescopes, moors, fantails, ryukins or orandas instead.
We advise an indoor aquarium. OATA says fancy goldfish are best kept indoors, and the exposed eyes are at risk from rough pond edges and fast pond fish.
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