Cichlid Care Guide: A UK Aquarist's Introduction to the Cichlidae Family

The cichlid family is so vast that asking "how do I keep a cichlid" is a bit like asking "how do I raise a mammal" — the answer depends entirely on whether you mean a mouse or a rhinoceros. After fifteen years of keeping various cichlid species in UK conditions, I have come to think of this guide as a map rather than an instruction manual. It will not tell you everything about any one species, but it will help you pick the right group and avoid the planning mistakes that kill most beginner cichlid tanks.

This overview draws on FishBase^[1] and Seriously Fish^[2], cross-referenced with fifteen years of keeping various cichlid species in UK conditions. Every care parameter here is sourced, and where I give an opinion I will tell you it is one.

Once you have narrowed down the species, we have detailed guides for the most popular cichlids in the UK hobby — the angelfish care guide and the discus care guide go deep on those individual species. This page is the starting point that helps you decide which of the thousand-plus cichlid species is right for you.

What makes cichlids special

There is a reason cichlids have a devoted following that goes well beyond general tropical fish enthusiasts. They are, genuinely, the most behaviourally interesting freshwater fish you can keep.

They are intelligent. Cichlids recognise their keepers, learn feeding schedules, and respond to movement outside the tank. I have had oscars that would take food from my hand and follow my finger along the glass. Convicts learn to beg at the front of the tank when they see you approach. This is not anthropomorphism — cichlids have genuinely larger brain-to-body ratios than most other fish^[1] and it shows in their behaviour.

They form pair bonds. Most cichlids pair up and stay together for a breeding cycle or longer, defending territory and young as a unit. Watching a pair of angelfish court, spawn, and raise fry is one of the most rewarding experiences in fishkeeping. You see behaviour that feels genuinely social rather than mechanical.

They practise parental care. Unlike most fish, which scatter eggs and abandon them, cichlids guard eggs, fan them, move fry around the tank, and defend their brood aggressively. African Rift Lake species take this further — females hold eggs and fry in their mouths for three weeks, only releasing the young once they can fend for themselves^[2].

And they are spectacularly diverse. The family covers over 1,600 described species^[1], with new ones still being named. From 4 cm shell-dwelling Tanganyikans to 40 cm piscivorous Central Americans, cichlids occupy nearly every possible freshwater niche. Pick any water condition, size, colour scheme, or temperament — there is a cichlid for it.

The three main groups

Understanding the three big geographic groups is the foundation of everything that follows. Each has its own water chemistry, temperament, and setup style. Get the group right and most of the care decisions fall into place.

African cichlids

The African group splits into three Rift Lake communities — Lake Malawi, Lake Tanganyika, and Lake Victoria — each with its own character^[2].

Lake Malawi cichlids are the most commonly kept. They divide into two main types: Mbuna (rock-dwellers, bold colours, often aggressive, mostly herbivorous) and Peacocks or Haps (more open-water, metallic colours, more peaceful). Mbuna include species like yellow labs, demasoni, and zebra cichlids. Peacocks include the famous blue peacock and many carefully line-bred colour morphs.

Lake Tanganyika cichlids are older, more diverse, and often more specialised. The lake is home to shell-dwellers (tiny fish that live in empty snail shells), sand-dwellers, and open-water species. Tanganyikans tend to be more peaceful than Malawi fish but need more specific setups. Frontosa are the celebrity species — large, slow-moving, and striking.

Lake Victoria cichlids are the least commonly kept, partly because many species have been devastated in the wild by the Nile perch introduction. Hobby stocks are limited but genuinely valuable for conservation.

All three groups need hard, alkaline water — pH 7.8 to 8.6, hardness 10-25 dGH^[2]. UK tap water in most of southern England is a near-perfect match, which is one of the reasons Africans became so popular here. Setups are dominated by rockwork — piles of slate, limestone, or synthetic rock stacked to create caves and territories. Plants mostly do not work because the fish dig and the herbivores eat them. Sand substrate suits most species.

South American cichlids

The South American group is dominated by softer-water species from the Amazon, Orinoco, and associated river systems^[1]. These fish evolved in very different conditions — warm, soft, acidic water filtered through decaying leaf litter and submerged wood.

The most popular species in the hobby:

Discus (Symphysodon) are the show-stoppers. Round, tall, and brightly coloured, they are also the most demanding. They need very soft water, temperatures around 28-30 degrees, and strict maintenance. Our full discus care guide covers them properly.

Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) are the elegant tall-bodied cichlids every fishkeeper recognises. Less demanding than discus, more tolerant of varied water, but still genuinely a South American species. Full details in our angelfish care guide.

Rams — both the blue/gold Mikrogeophagus ramirezi and the Bolivian Mikrogeophagus altispinosus — are peaceful dwarf cichlids suitable for planted community tanks. Bolivians are noticeably hardier than the standard rams, which can be fragile in UK tap water.

Apistogrammas are the specialist's dwarf cichlids. Around 40 species are commonly kept, most needing very soft acidic water and mature tanks. Agassizii, cacatuoides, and borellii are good starter species. Wild-caught fish are genuinely advanced projects.

South Americans generally want pH 6.0-7.5, hardness 2-10 dGH, temperature 24-28 degrees^[2]. Setups favour driftwood, leaf litter, dense planting, and subdued lighting. Biotope aquascaping — trying to recreate an actual stretch of Amazonian river — is popular with this group.

Central American cichlids

The Central American group is often overlooked but produces some of the most characterful cichlids in the hobby. These are generally hard-water, aggressive, often large fish from rivers and lakes in Mexico, Guatemala, and Honduras.

Convicts (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) are the most famous — small, hardy, and famously prolific breeders. They will breed in almost any conditions, which is both their charm and their problem.

Firemouth cichlids are the beginner's choice in this group. Around 12 cm, stunning red throat colouration when displaying, and relatively peaceful for a Central American. A proper starter "big cichlid" species.

Jack Dempsey, Texas cichlid, and Midas cichlid are larger, more aggressive species for experienced keepers with big tanks. Beautiful fish with strong personalities but they need space and carefully chosen tank mates.

Central Americans prefer pH 7.0-8.0, moderate to hard water, and temperatures 23-27 degrees. Setups mix rockwork with some hardy plants — vallisneria, anubias, and java fern often survive where softer plants get destroyed.

Beginner vs advanced species

Honesty matters here because too many people buy their first cichlid without realising the skill curve. This is my personal ranking, based on years of watching what works for first-time cichlid keepers.

Easy — genuinely beginner-friendly

• Bolivian ram (Mikrogeophagus altispinosus) — peaceful, hardy, takes UK tap water, beautiful subtle colour
• Kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher) — tolerant of a wide water range, colourful, breeds easily
• Firemouth cichlid (Thorichthys meeki) — a good first larger cichlid, moderate size, striking display
• Convict cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata) — almost bulletproof but breeds constantly; you will have baby convicts forever

Moderate — for keepers with one or two tanks' experience

• Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) — tall tanks needed, watchful for fin nipping tank mates, groups work better than pairs
• Yellow lab (Labidochromis caeruleus) — easiest Malawi species, good for first African tanks
• Blue acara (Andinoacara pulcher) — tough South American, handles a range of water, good personality
• Keyhole cichlid (Cleithracara maronii) — unusually peaceful South American, shy but rewarding

Advanced — need experience and the right tank

• Discus (Symphysodon spp.) — soft-water specialist, demanding maintenance, expensive mistakes
• Apistogrammas — most species need very soft acidic water and mature biotope tanks
• Oscars (Astronotus ocellatus) — 35 cm of fish needing 400-litre-plus tanks, messy eaters
• Severum — similar care to angelfish but bigger and more boisterous
• Most Tanganyikan cichlids — not difficult once set up, but setups need careful research

Expert — only for people who know what they are doing

• Wild-caught Tanganyikans — Tropheus, wild Frontosa, trade-sensitive species
• Large predatory cichlids — jaguar cichlids, wolf cichlids, piscivorous Central Americans
• Rare apistogramma species — wild-caught softwater specialists
• Old-world cichlids — Asian/Indian species with very specific needs

The pattern is: water-chemistry flexibility and manageable size makes a cichlid easier. Specialist water needs, huge size, or specific dietary requirements make it harder.

Tank setup by group

You cannot build one tank that suits all cichlids. The setup follows the group choice, which follows the water chemistry, which follows which species you actually want to keep.

Malawi Mbuna setup

The classic African Mbuna tank is essentially a rock pile in water. You want multiple stacks of slate, limestone, ocean rock, or Seiryu, built up to within 10-15 cm of the waterline, with plenty of caves and passages through the structure. A 240-litre tank minimum, ideally 300+ for a mixed Mbuna community.

Substrate is white or pale sand — aragonite or crushed coral sand helps buffer the pH naturally. No plants; they will be eaten or uprooted. Lighting can be bright without causing problems because there are no plants to worry about. Filtration needs to be heavy — two canister filters or a large internal plus a canister — because these are messy fish in a heavily stocked tank.

Stocking follows the "overstock to reduce aggression" principle. 15-20 fish in a 240-litre tank, males outnumbered by females where possible. The crowded environment prevents any one fish from establishing a dominant territory, which actually reduces overall aggression.

South American planted biotope

The opposite of the Malawi setup. A South American dwarf cichlid tank is typically a heavily planted aquascape with driftwood pieces, leaf litter on the substrate, and subdued lighting filtering through floating plants.

Substrate is dark sand or fine dark gravel. Driftwood pieces — mopani, Malaysian driftwood, or spider wood — create territory markers. Indian almond leaves and oak leaves scattered across the bottom both look right and tannin-condition the water gently. Plants like Cryptocoryne, Amazon sword, and java fern handle soft acidic water well.

Tank size depends on species. A single pair of rams or apistogrammas works in 60-80 litres. A proper angelfish display needs 200+ litres. A discus tank wants 250+ litres and strict maintenance.

Filtration should be gentle. These fish come from slow-moving water and stress in strong current. Sponge filters, or canisters with spray bars dispersed through planting, work well.

Central American rock-and-plant

Central American setups split the difference. Strong rockwork for territory, but some hardy plants like vallisneria, Anubias, and Microsorum that survive the occasional dig. Substrate is usually fine gravel or sand. Tank size depends heavily on species — firemouths live happily in 200 litres, Jack Dempseys want 300+, Midas cichlids need 400+ as a minimum.

Water parameters

This is where the planning comes in. The three groups have almost nothing in common on water chemistry, which means you choose your water first and your fish second — not the other way round.

For African Rift Lakes: pH 7.8-8.6, hardness 10-25 dGH, temperature 24-28 degrees C^[2]. Most UK tap water in the south and midlands hits this naturally. Calcium-rich substrates (aragonite sand, crushed coral) help hold the pH up. Regular water changes with tap water usually maintain parameters without additives.

For South American cichlids: pH 6.0-7.5, hardness 2-10 dGH, temperature 25-28 degrees for most species, 28-30 for discus^[1]. Southern UK tap water is wrong for these species. You will need to mix remineralised RO water with tap to hit the right hardness, or use rainwater (carefully filtered) for softwater specialists. Driftwood and leaf litter help acidify the water naturally.

For Central American cichlids: pH 7.0-8.0, moderate hardness 10-15 dGH, temperature 23-27 degrees. UK tap water suits these species well. No special treatment needed for most Central Americans.

The honest truth that applies across all groups: stability matters more than perfect numbers. A tank that sits at pH 7.5 every single day is better than one that swings between 7.0 and 8.5 because the keeper is chasing an ideal. Pick parameters you can maintain consistently.

Aggression and territory

Cichlid aggression is the thing that scares most beginners off, and honestly it is the single most interesting aspect of the family to watch once you understand it. Every cichlid species has its own way of defending territory, mate-guarding, and establishing hierarchy, but some patterns hold across the family.

Line of sight is everything. Cichlids defend what they can see. Tall rockwork, dense planting, and long tank footprints all break the tank into smaller visual zones, which means multiple fish can each have a territory without constantly seeing rivals. A 240-litre tank that is long and heavily scaped holds more cichlids peacefully than a 240-litre cube with sparse decoration.

Pair bonding intensifies aggression temporarily. A pair that has just spawned will defend a large radius around the nest, driving off any tank mate that comes close. This is normal — the trick is having a tank big enough that "driven off" does not mean "cornered and killed".

For African Mbuna, the counterintuitive approach is overstocking. 15-20 fish in a 240-litre tank, heavily rocked, spreads aggression so thin that no single fish is picked on. Removing fish from an overstocked Mbuna tank often increases aggression rather than reducing it, because the remaining fish have more opportunity to establish dominance.

For South American pairs, the approach is opposite. Give the breeding pair space — one pair per 80-150 litres depending on species — with plenty of sight breaks. Dither fish like tetras help distract the pair and spread their attention. A single pair of rams in a 60-litre tank with corydoras and tetras is a standard peaceful community arrangement.

For Central Americans, selection matters most. These fish are often too aggressive for mixed tank mates. Many species are best kept as species-only or pair-only tanks. Firemouths can work in larger communities but many of their relatives cannot.

Tank mates

Tank mate decisions depend almost entirely on which cichlid group you chose. There is no universal answer.

For dwarf South American cichlids (rams, apistogrammas, kribensis)

These are genuinely community-friendly. Good companions:

• Neon tetras and other small tetras
• Cardinal tetras — excellent dither fish
• Rummynose tetras — classic Amazon biotope pairing
• Corydoras catfish — bottom dwellers that ignore cichlids
• Cherry shrimp — work in planted tanks, though some fry may be taken
• Hatchetfish — surface dwellers that stay out of cichlid territory

Avoid anything that competes directly for the substrate territory, and avoid fin nippers that will harass breeding pairs.

For angelfish

Medium-sized community fish work well with angels, but small fish become prey as angels grow.

• Corydoras — reliable bottom dwellers
• Silver dollars — peaceful, same South American origin, large enough not to be eaten
• Rummynose tetras — often safe once angels are established, but risky
• Bristlenose plecos — excellent clean-up crew that angels ignore
• Other angelfish — groups of 4-6 work better than pairs in community tanks

Full tank mate guidance in our angelfish care guide.

For African Mbuna

Mbuna tanks should generally be African-only. Good tank mates for Mbuna are other Mbuna, not community fish.

• Synodontis catfish — African catfish that tolerate the hard water
• Large plecos — occasionally work but many species prefer softer water
• Other Mbuna — choose species with different colour patterns to reduce cross-breeding

Avoid tetras, corydoras, and any soft-water fish. The water chemistry alone rules them out.

For Central Americans

Depends entirely on species. Firemouths can live with medium-sized tetras and other peaceful cichlids. Larger Central Americans are often species-only or need carefully chosen, robust tank mates like silver dollars or medium-sized synodontis.

Breeding

Cichlid breeding is one of the richest experiences in freshwater fishkeeping, because unlike most fish these species actually raise their young. Watching a pair of convicts herd fry around the tank, or a female Malawi mouthbrood for three weeks before releasing fully-formed juveniles, is genuinely remarkable.

Substrate spawners

Most South and Central American cichlids are substrate spawners. The pair cleans a flat rock, a broad plant leaf, or a piece of driftwood, and the female lays rows of eggs which the male fertilises. Both parents then guard the eggs, fanning them with their fins to keep fresh water moving, removing any that fungus, and chasing anything near.

Once the eggs hatch, fry are initially kept in a pit dug in the substrate. Within a few days they become free-swimming and the parents lead them around the tank as a cloud, herding strays back into the group. Both parents defend the fry aggressively, often picking fights with fish many times their size.

Angelfish, discus, rams, apistogrammas, kribensis, and most Central Americans are substrate spawners.

Mouthbrooders

African Rift Lake species mostly mouthbrood. The female picks up the eggs immediately after spawning, holds them in her buccal cavity for two to three weeks, and only releases the fry once they are capable of feeding and swimming on their own.

Mouthbrooding females stop eating during this period. In species with heavy male aggression, the holding female may need to be moved to a separate tank to recover after releasing fry. Mbuna and Peacocks from Malawi are the classic mouthbrooders.

Practical breeding considerations

Pairing is often the hardest step. Many cichlids are extremely selective about mates, and compatibility cannot be forced. The standard approach is to buy 6-8 juveniles and let them pair up naturally as they mature, then remove or rehome the extras.

Water quality matters more for fry than for adults. Stable, clean conditions during the first month of life are essential. Weekly small water changes, careful feeding (infusoria initially, then baby brine shrimp), and no sudden temperature swings are the foundation.

Species-specific breeding advice is beyond the scope of an overview guide — for detailed protocols, see our dedicated species guides for angelfish and discus, and future guides on apistogrammas, rams, and kribensis.

UK-specific notes

Three things matter specifically for UK cichlid keepers.

Water chemistry drives species selection. Most southern England tap water is hard and alkaline — perfect for African Rift Lake species, wrong for Amazonian dwarf cichlids. The north and Scotland generally have softer water that suits South Americans. Before you commit to a cichlid project, check your water report (every water company publishes one) and pick accordingly. Fighting your tap water long-term with RO mixing is doable but expensive in time and money.

Heating is essential. UK room temperatures drop below 20 degrees for much of the year. All cichlids need heated water — most in the 24-28 degree range, with discus wanting 28-30. A reliable thermostatic heater sized for the tank volume is non-negotiable. I use separate heaters and temperature controllers for larger tanks to avoid single-point failures.

Sourcing matters. The UK has a strong cichlid hobby with specialist breeders and shops, but quality varies widely. Wild-caught fish from reputable importers are excellent but expensive. Captive-bred fish are more available and usually better adapted to UK conditions. Avoid mixed tanks at general fish shops where species are often mislabelled.

Why buy from us

We stock a rotating selection of common cichlid species — primarily beginner-friendly South American and Central American species suited to UK tap water conditions. Every fish we ship has been held and observed in our facility, feeding on prepared foods, and displaying the colour and behaviour you expect from a healthy specimen.

Our shipping is built around live fish — insulated packaging, oxygen-bagged, and heat packs in cooler months. Tracked delivery means your fish spend the minimum time in transit. We dispatch Monday to Wednesday for overnight delivery, avoiding weekend delays at couriers.

If you are planning a first cichlid tank, our care team is happy to talk through species selection, water requirements, and stocking. Email us with your tank size and water chemistry, and we will help you pick species that actually suit your setup rather than ones we just want to sell.

Answers to common questions

Are cichlids hard to keep?

It entirely depends on which cichlid. Bolivian rams and kribensis are genuinely beginner-friendly. Discus and wild-caught apistogrammas are advanced projects. The family spans everything from peaceful dwarfs to tank-wrecking predators, so species selection matters more than cichlids-as-a-category being hard or easy.

What is the best beginner cichlid?

Bolivian rams are my top pick for first cichlid keepers. They are peaceful, tolerant of UK tap water, and display proper cichlid behaviour when paired up. Kribensis are close behind. For a larger first cichlid, the firemouth cichlid is a solid choice.

How many cichlids can I keep in a tank?

Depends on the group. Mbuna tanks overstock deliberately — 15-20 fish in 240 litres. South American pairs want space — one pair per 80-150 litres. Angelfish do well in groups of 4-6 in 200+ litres. Large predators like oscars are one or two fish in 400+ litres. There is no universal stocking rule across the family.

Do cichlids eat other fish?

Many will, especially large species. Oscars, jaguar cichlids, and Midas cichlids are active predators. Angelfish eat small tetras once grown. Dwarf cichlids mostly leave tetras alone but may take shrimp fry. Research the specific species before mixing.

Can cichlids live with tetras?

Dwarf South American cichlids yes — rams, apistogrammas, and kribensis coexist beautifully with cardinal tetras, neon tetras, and other small schooling fish. Angelfish eat small tetras once grown. African Mbuna should never be mixed with tetras due to water chemistry alone.

What is the difference between African and South American cichlids?

Water chemistry, setup style, and social structure are all different. Africans need hard alkaline water and rocky setups with many fish together. South Americans need soft acidic water and planted setups with pairs or small groups. Never mix the two — it is the most common cichlid planning mistake.

How do I manage cichlid aggression?

Line of sight is the master principle — break up the visual space with rockwork and planting. For Africans, overstock and crowd. For South Americans, give pairs space with dither fish. Match species temperaments. Remove persistent bullies rather than tolerating real harm.

What size tank do cichlids need?

Dwarf cichlids — 60 litres for a pair. Kribensis and firemouths — 100 litres. Angelfish — 200 litres for a group. Mbuna — 240 litres minimum for a proper display. Large cichlids like oscars — 400 litres absolute minimum. Footprint matters more than height for most species.

Do cichlids breed easily?

Most cichlids breed readily once a compatible pair forms. Getting them to pair is usually harder than getting them to spawn. Cichlids are famous for parental care — they guard eggs, lead fry around the tank, and defend the brood. Mouthbrooding African females hold fry in their mouths for three weeks.

What do cichlids eat?

Diet varies wildly by species. Mbuna are herbivores — feed spirulina and veggie pellets, never meaty foods (Malawi bloat is fatal). Most South Americans and Tanganyikans are omnivores — quality cichlid pellet plus frozen foods. Predators like oscars take larger prepared foods and frozen krill. Match diet to species carefully.

Why is my cichlid hiding?

New fish often hide for a week while settling. Ongoing hiding points to stress — test water first, then check for aggression from tank mates. In Mbuna tanks, a single hiding fish is usually being targeted and needs more rockwork or removal.

Can you keep cichlids with other fish?

Yes, with species-specific selection. Dwarf cichlids live happily in community tanks with tetras and corydoras. Angelfish work with medium community fish. Mbuna should be kept as African-only tanks. Never mix African and South American species.