Cherry Shrimp Care Guide: Neocaridina davidi for UK Aquarists

The cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) is the invertebrate I recommend more often than any other. I have kept a cherry shrimp colony continuously for over three years now — same tank, same founding genetics, thousands of babies raised — and they remain the most satisfying thing in my fish room. There is nothing quite like walking into a planted tank in the morning and seeing fifty red dots grazing over moss and wood, each one picking at biofilm in that busy, mesmerising way that shrimp have.

This guide draws on data from FishBase^[1] and Seriously Fish^[2], grading information from Aquatic Arts^[3], and hobbyist references from Planet Invert^[4], cross-referenced against three years of running a breeding colony in typical UK tap water. Every care parameter is sourced. Where I am giving an opinion rather than a cited fact, I will say so.

We currently stock several cherry shrimp colour grades — browse our cherry shrimp range to see what is available for tracked UK delivery.

Where cherry shrimp come from

Neocaridina davidi is native to Taiwan and parts of mainland East Asia, where wild-type populations live in slow-moving streams, drainage channels, and shallow pond margins^[1]. The wild form is a modest brown-grey colour. The vivid red shrimp we know as "cherry" is a selectively bred line that has been in the aquarium hobby for decades^[2].

Understanding their natural habitat explains why they thrive in mature planted tanks. Wild Neocaridina spend their days picking through leaf litter, submerged roots, and algae-covered stones — grazing constantly on biofilm, soft algae, and microorganisms. A bare, sterile tank is the opposite of what they evolved for. A tank full of moss, wood, botanicals, and gentle current reproduces their natural feeding opportunities almost perfectly.

This also explains why they are so forgiving about water chemistry. Their wild habitat varies hugely — from soft, slightly acidic streams to harder, neutral drainage channels. That adaptability is why they work in most UK tap water without any special treatment. It is also why stability matters more than chasing specific numbers.

Neocaridina grading — what you are actually paying for

All the colour variants you see for sale are the same species — Neocaridina davidi — selectively bred for different colours, patterns, and intensities. Price climbs roughly with colour saturation and consistency. Here is how the red line breaks down in practice^[3].

Red grade spectrum

Beyond red

Neocaridina also come in yellow (yellow neon), blue (blue dream, blue velvet, topaz), green (green jade), black (chocolate cherry, black rose), and the translucent "rili" patterns where body segments are clear. All the same species, all the same care. Different colour lines should not be kept together if you want to preserve the grading — their offspring revert toward the wild-type brown within a few generations.

Which grade should you start with?

My honest advice for a first colony is sakura or fire red. You get strong colour for a reasonable price, and if you lose a few during establishment it will not cost you a small fortune. Once you have kept a colony for six months, upgrade the gene pool by adding premium Bloody Mary or painted fire red females — the colony colour will improve over a couple of generations.

Tank setup

Size and layout

The absolute minimum is 20 litres, and that is enough for 10-15 shrimp. In practice, I recommend 30-45 litres as a better starting point — the extra volume makes parameters much more stable, and the colony can grow without you having to think about it. Shrimp produce very little waste compared to fish, so stocking density is rarely the limiting factor. Water stability is.

Cherry shrimp are not territorial, so tank footprint matters less than for fish. A 20-litre cube works as well as a 20-litre long. What they do care about is surface area for grazing — lots of plants, wood, stones, and botanicals.

Stocking suggestions

These are achievable long-term numbers, not day-one stocking. Start at the low end and let the colony grow naturally — this is how healthy shrimp populations establish themselves.

Water parameters

Cherry shrimp accept a genuinely wide range. Temperature 18-28 degrees C^[1], pH 6.5-8.0, GH 4-15, and KH high enough to buffer the pH^[2]. In most UK homes, plain dechlorinated tap water is fine once the tank has cycled.

Temperature in the low 20s is the sweet spot in my experience. Warmer water speeds up the metabolism, meaning faster breeding but shorter lifespans. Cooler water (18-20 degrees) slows everything down but the shrimp live longer. I run mine at 22 degrees as a compromise.

Filtration

A sponge filter is the gold standard for shrimp tanks. Gentle flow, no suction risk for shrimplets, huge surface area for biofilm, and dirt-cheap to run. I use a sponge filter in every shrimp tank I own, and I think almost every shrimp keeper eventually settles on them.

If you use a hang-on-back or external filter, cover the intake with a fine pre-filter sponge. Unprotected intakes will pull in shrimplets, and once they are in the impeller chamber they do not come out alive. This is one of the most common preventable causes of shrimp loss.

Substrate

Dark substrate makes red shrimp look spectacular. Black sand, dark fine gravel, or an inert dark aquasoil all work well. Pale sand washes out the colour — the shrimp look noticeably less red against a light background.

Active (buffering) substrates like ADA Amazonia will drive pH down into the 5.5-6.5 range. That is fine for bee shrimp but unnecessary for Neocaridina, and the pH crash during setup can harm them. Inert dark substrate is the simpler, safer choice.

Plants and decor

This is where a shrimp tank lives or dies. Moss is the number one ingredient — java moss, Christmas moss, subwassertang, and flame moss all work. Shrimp graze on moss constantly and shrimplets hide in it, which dramatically increases survival.

Driftwood, cholla wood, and Indian almond leaves are excellent because they host biofilm and slowly release tannins that shrimp thrive on. Alder cones drop in a couple at a time for the same reason. Dense planting of any kind — Cryptocoryne, Anubias, floating plants — gives shrimplets somewhere safe to grow.

Lighting

Moderate lighting for 6-8 hours a day is plenty. Bright lighting encourages algae, which shrimp graze on, but too bright makes them shy. I run planted tank lights in the 30-50 PAR range for mixed plant growth and shrimp comfort. Heavy floating plant cover filters the light nicely.

Feeding

Cherry shrimp are unfussy omnivores, but the biggest mistake new shrimp keepers make is overfeeding. In a mature planted tank, most of their food comes from biofilm and soft algae growing naturally on every surface. Prepared foods should supplement that, not replace it.

Daily routine

Feed 3-4 times a week, never every day. A small piece of shrimp pellet, quarter of an algae wafer, or a pinch of specialist invertebrate food is enough for a colony of 20-30. The rule is simple — they should finish what you offer within 2-3 hours. If food is still sitting there after that, you fed too much.

Vegetables and leaves

Blanched courgette, spinach, nettle leaves, and kale are all excellent. Blanching softens the cell walls so the shrimp can graze. Offer a small piece once a week, and remove any uneaten portion within 24 hours or it will foul the water.

Indian almond leaves and mulberry leaves are slow-release food. Drop one in and leave it — over 2-3 weeks it softens, grows biofilm, and eventually disintegrates. Shrimp love them and they mildly acidify the water, which shrimp appreciate.

Protein treats for breeding

When the colony is actively breeding, slightly more protein helps condition the adults. A tiny portion of frozen daphnia or cyclops once a week, or a specialist shrimp protein food, is all they need. Too much protein causes bacterial blooms and water quality problems fast. Shrimp keepers have a saying: "When in doubt, feed less."

What to avoid

Anything copper-containing is lethal. Check every fish medication, plant fertiliser, and algae treatment before dosing the tank. Most fertilisers labelled "shrimp safe" are fine, but generic ones often contain copper at levels that kill shrimp within days. Avoid oily or heavily salted human foods, and never use garden produce that may have pesticide residue.

Tank mates

Cherry shrimp are among the most peaceful aquarium inhabitants you can keep. The compatibility question is not whether they will attack other species — it is whether other species will attack them. And crucially, whether other species will eat the shrimplets.

Genuinely safe tank mates

• Otocinclus — the best shrimp tank mate I know of. Tiny mouths, peaceful temperament, will not touch shrimp of any size
• Nerite snails — totally ignore shrimp, help control algae, safe in any numbers
• Ramshorn snails and Malaysian trumpet snails — harmless, useful for tank cleanup
• Amano shrimp — bigger and more assertive at feeding time, but will not attack cherries. Good algae workers
• Other Neocaridina colours — but keep each grade separate if you want to preserve colours

Mostly safe (adult shrimp usually fine, shrimplets will be eaten)

• Celestial pearl danios — peaceful, tiny mouths, mostly ignore adult shrimp. Some shrimplet losses expected
• Ember tetras — similar story. Tiny mouths, peaceful, but babies are fair game
• Harlequin rasboras — fine with adults, will eat juveniles
• Honey gouramis — peaceful but opportunistic. Adult shrimp usually ignored
• Corydoras — mostly fine but larger species can inhale shrimplets hoovering the substrate

Will definitely eat your shrimp

• Neon tetras — small mouths, but shoal-hunting behaviour means they pick off any shrimplet they spot
• Any cichlid, from the smallest Apistogramma up
• Bettas (variable — some ignore them, some hunt them obsessively)
• Loaches of any size (including kuhli loaches — they scavenge along the substrate)
• Pea puffers, figure-8 puffers, all puffers
• Angelfish, discus, and any larger community fish
• Crayfish and larger predatory shrimp

My honest advice

If you want a thriving, growing colony, go species-only. Every fish you add costs you some shrimplets. In a shrimp-only 30-litre tank I have seen 80+ shrimp in a year from 15 founders. In a community tank with even a small peaceful fish, population growth is much slower and often stops entirely. Decide what you want from the tank before you add fish.

Breeding

Cherry shrimp are famous for being one of the easiest freshwater invertebrates to breed. In my experience that is completely true — give them a mature tank with stable water and they breed all by themselves. This is why cherry shrimp are such a brilliant introduction to breeding projects, and why many fishkeepers end up with a decade-long colony without ever actively trying.

The basic cycle

Females reach sexual maturity at around 2 months old. After moulting, a receptive female releases pheromones and the males become visibly more active, swimming frantically around the tank looking for her. Mating is brief. Soon after, the female carries 20-30 eggs under her abdomen — this is called being "berried"^[2].

She fans the eggs constantly with her swimmerets to keep them oxygenated, and after 2-3 weeks they hatch. Unlike Amano shrimp, which have a complex larval saltwater stage, Neocaridina shrimplets hatch as tiny fully-formed versions of the adults. They can start grazing on biofilm from day one.

Setting up for breeding success

You do not need a dedicated breeding tank — a regular mature colony tank works beautifully. What matters is:

• Dense moss cover — shrimplets need somewhere to hide and graze safely
• Stable water — consistent parameters trump perfect ones
• Sponge filter only — suction intakes kill babies
• Light feeding — overfeeding causes bacterial blooms that kill shrimplets fast
• Mineral availability — GH 6-10 supports healthy moulting and egg production
• Patience — do not vacuum the substrate or aggressively prune moss

If you want to maximise breeding, skew your starter group slightly female-heavy — perhaps 3 females to 2 males. This reduces constant harassment of newly-moulted females and gives you faster population growth.

Selective breeding for colour

To maintain or improve colony colour, cull (or sell) the palest individuals over time. Keep only the deepest-coloured adults for breeding. Over 2-3 generations you will see a noticeable improvement. Mixing colour grades (fire red with Bloody Mary, for example) is usually fine colour-wise, but mixing different colour families (red with blue, or yellow with black) produces wild-type brown offspring within a few generations.

Health and common problems

Healthy cherry shrimp are active grazers with rich colour, clean moults, and berried females if the colony is mature. Problems usually trace back to water quality, copper exposure, or moulting difficulties — rarely to actual disease.

Moulting problems

Failed moults are the most common serious issue. The shrimp gets stuck halfway out of its old shell and dies. Causes are almost always mineral-related: insufficient GH, insufficient KH, sudden TDS changes, or low calcium. UK tap water usually provides plenty of calcium, but in soft water areas you may need to add a GH booster specifically formulated for shrimp.

Scutariella

These are tiny white hair-like parasites that cling near the shrimp's head. They are not usually lethal but they multiply through the colony. Treatment is gentle salt dips or shrimp-safe specialist medications — avoid anything with copper.

Planaria and hydra

Flatworms (planaria) and tiny jellyfish-like hydra can appear in overfed tanks. Both can harm shrimplets. The solution is less food and patience — they disappear when the food source disappears. Chemical treatments (like fenbendazole for planaria) work but can be harsh on shrimp, so fix the food problem first.

Mass deaths

A sudden colony-wide die-off almost always means copper or pesticide. Check everything you have added recently — new medications, new plants (which may have been treated in the supply chain), new fertilisers. Large water changes with a good dechlorinator can help dilute contamination, but in bad cases the tank needs to be torn down and restarted.

Prevention

• Quarantine new plants for a week in a separate tank before adding them
• Check every dose of every medication or fertiliser for copper
• Small, regular water changes (10-15% weekly) instead of large ones
• Do not overfeed
• Maintain stable GH and KH

UK delivery and acclimation

Shrimp are noticeably more delicate to ship than fish. They are smaller, more sensitive to temperature swings, and hit by osmotic shock harder when the water chemistry changes. Good packaging and careful acclimation matter more for shrimp than for almost any other livestock.

We ship live shrimp across the UK with insulated packaging, breather bags suited to invertebrates, and seasonal heat packs through the cold months. Orders go out Monday to Wednesday for tracked delivery to keep transit time short.

Drip acclimation is mandatory

Shrimp must be drip-acclimated. This is not optional with Neocaridina the way it arguably is with hardy fish. The reason is osmotic — shrimp blood chemistry equalises slowly with water chemistry, and sudden changes cause shell and organ damage that kills them over the following days even if they look fine on arrival.

Here is the process I use:

1. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15 minutes to equalise temperature
2. Pour the bag water and shrimp into a clean container (not the tank)
3. Set up a drip line using airline tubing with a loose knot, dripping tank water into the container
4. Drip slowly — aim for the container water volume to double over 45-60 minutes
5. Net the shrimp out gently and release into the tank
6. Discard the transport water — never pour it into your display

Newly arrived shrimp often hide for the first 24-48 hours. They will also moult within the first week as they adjust. Do not panic — both are normal. If you still have live shrimp a week after arrival, you are almost always in the clear.

Why buy from us

Every batch of shrimp we send out has been held and observed before dispatch. We watch for weak individuals, failed moults, and parasites — and we do not pack anything that looks off. This matters more with shrimp than with fish because shrimp diseases spread fast in a closed colony.

Our packaging is invertebrate-specific: insulated boxes, breather bags sized appropriately for shrimp (oversized bags cause more sloshing damage), and heat packs in cooler months. We ship Monday to Wednesday only, so your shrimp never sit in a depot over a weekend.

If you are starting a colony from scratch, our cherry shrimp group packs are the most cost-effective way to get to that minimum 10-shrimp starter group. A healthy founder colony establishes much faster than a trickle of individuals added over weeks.

Behaviour

Cherry shrimp are peaceful, busy, and constantly interesting to watch. In a mature tank you will see them grazing on every surface — climbing stems, hanging upside down under leaves, picking at moss, and swarming around food when you drop it in.

They are not schooling animals in the fish sense, but they are clearly social. A colony of 20 behaves completely differently from a group of 5 — bolder, more visible, more active. Below a certain density they tend to hide and rarely display natural behaviour.

Moulting is worth watching for. The shrimp rapidly backs out of its old shell, leaves a perfect translucent replica on the substrate (often mistaken for a dead shrimp), and hides for a few hours while its new shell hardens. Never remove moults immediately — the shrimp recycle calcium from them by eating the old shell over the following days.

Answers to common questions

How many cherry shrimp should I start with?

At least 10. Smaller groups often fail to establish a colony — you lose a couple to the inevitable settling-in period and you are left with too few to produce a new generation. Ten gives you mixed sexes, enough activity that they feel secure, and a realistic buffer against loss.

What water parameters do cherry shrimp need?

Temperature 18-28 degrees C, pH 6.5-8.0, GH 4-15. They are far more adaptable than crystal or bee shrimp. Most UK tap water is perfectly suitable once dechlorinated. Stability matters more than hitting exact numbers.

How do you breed cherry shrimp?

Give them a mature planted tank with stable water and they breed by themselves. Females carry eggs for 2-3 weeks, and babies hatch as tiny versions of the adults. Dense moss is the single biggest factor in shrimplet survival.

What are safe cherry shrimp tank mates?

Otocinclus, nerite snails, and Amano shrimp are genuinely safe. Celestial pearl danios, ember tetras, and small rasboras work for adult shrimp but will eat shrimplets. Species-only is best for serious breeding.

How many cherry shrimp per litre?

Roughly 1 per 2-3 litres as a starting point, growing to around 1 per litre as the colony matures. A 20-litre tank can comfortably hold 20-40 shrimp long-term.

Do cherry shrimp need a heater?

In the UK, yes. Winter room temperatures drop below their comfort range, and overnight temperature swings cause moulting problems. A simple nano heater set to 22 degrees is the right default.

What do cherry shrimp eat?

Biofilm from tank surfaces is their main food. Supplement with a shrimp pellet or algae wafer 3-4 times a week and occasional blanched vegetables. Indian almond leaves are a favourite slow-release food.

Why are my cherry shrimp dying?

Usually copper poisoning, temperature shock, or TDS crash after water changes. Check every medication and fertiliser in the tank for copper. Match new water temperature and hardness carefully, and do small water changes rather than large ones.

Do cherry shrimp need a lot of plants?

Yes — plants, moss, and decor with textured surfaces are essential. Shrimp graze constantly on biofilm that grows on these surfaces, and shrimplets need hiding spots to survive. A bare tank is a shrimp failure waiting to happen.

What is the difference between cherry shrimp and Bloody Mary?

Same species (Neocaridina davidi), different colour grade. Bloody Mary is the premium red grade — deep, internal, translucent wine-red that appears to glow from inside the body. Standard cherries have patchy red on a clear shell. See the grading section above for the full spectrum.

How long do cherry shrimp live?

One to two years for individuals. But a healthy breeding colony is effectively self-sustaining — individuals come and go, but the colony itself can persist for years with minimal intervention.

Can cherry shrimp live with bettas?

It depends entirely on the individual betta. A calm betta in a heavily planted tank may ignore adults, but shrimplets will be eaten. For a breeding colony I would not attempt it.