Ember Tetra Care Guide: Hyphessobrycon amandae for UK Aquarists

The Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae) is the undisputed king of the nano aquarium. At barely 2 cm fully grown, this tiny Brazilian characin packs more colour per centimetre than almost any freshwater fish in the hobby. We stock Ember Tetras in our UK shop, and this is the complete ember tetra care guide I maintain for the species — covering everything from ember tetra tank size and water chemistry to ember tetra tank mates, diet, breeding, shrimp compatibility, and the colour-enhancement tricks that turn a pale fish into a glowing jewel. Every claim is backed by cited sources — FishBase^[1] for scientific data, Seriously Fish^[2] for hobbyist-verified care, and my own notes from keeping and selling this species for years.

The Ember Tetra, Hyphessobrycon amandae, is a miniature characin that has become one of the most popular nano fish in the UK hobby. Named after Amanda Bleher, the ichthyologist and explorer who collected the first specimens, this tiny fish glows a rich orange-red that intensifies dramatically under the right conditions. At just 2 cm adult ember tetra size, it is one of the smallest tetras available, making it perfect for ember tetra nano tank setups, desktop aquariums, and densely planted aquascapes where larger fish would look out of place. Despite that diminutive frame, a proper shoal of 15-20 embers moving through green plants creates a visual impact that rivals fish three times their size. For UK aquarists building a nano fish planted tank, a shrimp-safe community, or a compact aquascape with real biological character, the Ember Tetra is one of the strongest choices available.

Classification

• Order: Characiformes

• Family: Characidae

• Genus: Hyphessobrycon

  Hyphessobrycon amandae belongs to the large and diverse Hyphessobrycon genus, which contains over 150 described species. Unlike many of its larger relatives, the Ember Tetra's appeal lies in its combination of intense colour and genuinely tiny adult size — a combination that has made it one of the defining species of the modern nano aquarium movement.

Where Do Ember Tetras Come From? Natural Habitat Explained

The natural Hyphessobrycon amandae habitat is the Araguaia River basin in central Brazil, specifically the shallow, slow-moving tributaries, flooded grasslands, and marginal vegetation zones of the Mato Grosso region. These waters are warm, soft, and often tinted amber by decaying organic matter. The fish live among dense aquatic plants, submerged grasses, and root tangles where their small size offers protection from predators.

In the wild, ember tetras form loose shoals in calm, heavily vegetated shallows. They pick at biofilm, tiny invertebrates, microcrustaceans, and organic particles among plant stems and leaf litter. This natural behaviour explains why they thrive in planted aquariums and why bare, sterile tanks produce pale, stressed fish. The habitat is not blackwater in the classic Amazonian sense — it is more of a warm, soft, nutrient-rich floodplain environment with plenty of vegetation and gentle to negligible current.

Understanding this origin is the key to successful ember tetra care. The species does not need extreme conditions — it simply needs warmth, soft to moderately soft water, dense plant cover, and minimal aggression from tank mates. That is exactly why it has become one of the most recommended nano fish UK species for beginners and experienced aquascapers alike.

For aquarists researching the species through detailed profiles on sites like Seriously Fish^[2], the consistent advice is the same: provide cover, keep the water clean and stable, and let the fish colour up naturally. Embers that feel secure in a well-planted tank will display colour that photographs cannot fully capture.

Expert Tip

Adding dried leaf litter (Indian almond leaves or oak leaves) to the aquarium releases tannins that subtly tint the water, lower pH, and provide surfaces for biofilm growth. Ember tetras respond by displaying their richest orange-red colouration — the tannin tint also reduces light intensity, creating conditions closer to their natural habitat.

How to Set Up the Perfect Tank for Ember Tetras

The ember tetra tank setup is one of the simplest to get right in the hobby, which is a major part of the species' appeal. A 30-litre planted nano aquarium is enough for a starting group, but as with all shoaling fish, more space means better behaviour, stronger colour, and a more impressive display. If you are asking how many ember tetras to keep, the answer is always: more than you think. Start with 10 as an absolute minimum, aim for 15-20, and in larger tanks a group of 30+ creates one of the most beautiful nano fish displays possible.

Tank Size Requirements

A 30-litre aquarium is the minimum for a group of 10-12 ember tetras. This makes the species ideal for desktop tanks, office setups, and small bedroom aquascapes. For a fuller community with bottom-dwellers and shrimp, 45-60 litres gives breathing room without being excessive. In a 60-litre planted tank, a group of 20 embers with a colony of cherry shrimp and a few otocinclus creates one of the most popular nano community tank setups in the UK hobby.

For aquarists with larger aquariums, ember tetras also work brilliantly as a midwater accent species. A shoal of 30-40 in a 120-litre planted tank adds movement and warm colour without contributing significant bioload. Their tiny size means stocking density is generous compared with larger tetras.

Water Parameters

20-28°C ember tetra temperature

5.0-7.0 ember tetra pH range

1-10 dGH Hyphessobrycon amandae water hardness

Low nitrate ember tetra water parameters

The ideal ember tetra temperature range is 20-28°C, with 23-26°C being the sweet spot for long-term care and best colour. This wide tolerance makes them more forgiving than many tropical species and means they can be kept in unheated tanks in warm rooms during summer months — though a heater is still recommended for consistency in the UK.

The best ember tetra pH is between 5.5 and 6.8, though tank-bred specimens — which make up the vast majority of UK stock — will adapt to neutral water around 7.0 if conditions are otherwise stable. Soft water is preferred but not as critical as it is for wild-caught blackwater species. Most UK tap water, when dechlorinated, sits in a workable range for this species, making them a practical choice for aquarists who do not want to run RO systems.

Hyphessobrycon amandae water hardness should ideally be 1-10 dGH. They will tolerate moderately hard water better than many soft-water specialists, but very hard water (above 15 dGH) can dull their colour and shorten their lifespan. If your water is very hard, a partial RO mix improves results noticeably.

Filtration

Gentle filtration is essential. Ember tetras are tiny fish that can be buffeted by strong flow, so a small sponge filter, a nano internal filter, or a well-baffled hang-on-back filter works best. The goal is zero ammonia and nitrite with minimal current in the midwater zone. Sponge filters are particularly good because they also provide surfaces for biofilm grazing, which supplements the diet naturally.

Substrate, Plants & Decor — The Key to Colour

This is where ember tetras go from nice to spectacular. Dark substrate is the single most important decor choice for ember tetras. Against a dark brown or black substrate, their orange-red colouration intensifies dramatically — the same fish that looks washed out over pale gravel will glow like a hot coal over dark aquasoil. This is not just aesthetics; fish naturally adjust their chromatophores (colour cells) to contrast with their background, so dark substrate triggers genuine biological colour enhancement.

Dense planting is the second priority. Fine-leaved plants such as Rotala rotundifolia, Micranthemum, java moss, and Pogostemon helferi create the kind of cover that makes embers feel secure. Floating plants like Salvinia or Limnobium dim the light naturally and encourage the fish to swim openly in the midwater. Driftwood and small stones provide additional structure. Leave open swimming lanes in the front and middle so the shoal has room to move as a group.

For aquarists building a classic nano planted aquascape, pair embers with carpeting plants and mossy driftwood. The contrast between deep green vegetation and glowing orange fish is one of the most photographed looks in the planted tank world. If you want warm-toned companion species, consider Glowlight Tetras in a larger tank, or stick with a single-species ember shoal for maximum visual impact in a nano setup.

Lighting Requirements

Moderate to subdued lighting brings out the best colour. Very bright light without plant cover makes embers nervous and pale. The ideal setup uses enough light for healthy plant growth, with floating plants providing dappled shade in the swimming zone. Under these conditions, the fish relax, school openly, and display their richest orange tones. Heavily planted tanks with good canopy cover often produce the most vivid fish.

Pro Tip

If you want the most vivid ember tetras possible, use a dark aquasoil substrate, add Indian almond leaves for tannins, plant floating cover to dim the light, and feed a varied diet with frozen foods. These four elements together produce fish that glow so intensely visitors often ask if they are real.

What Do Ember Tetras Eat? Feeding Tiny Mouths

The ember tetra diet is omnivorous, but their mouths are extremely small — easily the smallest of any commonly kept tetra. This is the most important feeding consideration. Standard tropical flakes are too large; you need micro foods that a 2 cm fish can actually fit in its mouth. Getting this right is the difference between well-fed, glowing fish and thin, pale ones that never reach their potential.

Staple Foods

The best daily staple is a high-quality micro pellet or finely crushed flake. Nano-specific foods from reputable brands are ideal because they are ground to a particle size that tiny mouths can handle. Feed small amounts twice daily — just enough that the fish finish everything within 30-60 seconds. Embers are active feeders but they process food slowly, so little and often outperforms one large meal.

Supplemental Foods

Frozen cyclops is arguably the single best supplemental food for ember tetras. The individual organisms are perfectly sized for their tiny mouths, and the response is immediate — you will see colour intensity improve within days of adding frozen cyclops to the rotation. Baby brine shrimp (Artemia nauplii), frozen daphnia, and micro worms are also excellent choices. These foods provide the variety and protein that a dry-food-only diet cannot match.

Treats & Conditioning Foods

For breeding conditioning or simply maximising colour, live foods are outstanding. Freshly hatched brine shrimp, micro worms, and grindal worms trigger a strong feeding response and bring fish into peak condition. Even small amounts offered once or twice a week make a visible difference to the vibrancy of the shoal.

Frozen bloodworm is popular in the hobby but must be chopped very finely for ember tetras — whole bloodworms are far too large. Many keepers skip bloodworm entirely for this species and focus on cyclops, daphnia, and brine shrimp instead, all of which are more appropriate for such a small mouth.

A high-quality micro pellet or nano food as the daily staple, supplemented with frozen cyclops 2-3 times per week, keeps ember tetras in peak colour and condition.

Feeding Warning

The biggest feeding mistake with ember tetras is using food that is too large. If you see fish spitting out food repeatedly or struggling to swallow, the particle size is wrong. Crush flakes between your fingers until they are almost powder, or switch to a dedicated nano food. Uneaten oversized food sinks, rots, and causes water quality problems — especially dangerous in the small tanks where embers are typically kept.

What Does the Ember Tetra Look Like? Colour, Size & Telling the Sexes Apart

A healthy ember tetra in good conditions is a stunning fish. The body glows a uniform orange to orange-red — not striped, not banded, but a warm, all-over fire colour that gives the species its common name. In peak condition, the fins take on the same orange tone, and the entire fish appears to be lit from within. The effect in a group is remarkable: a shoal of 20 glowing embers against dark green plants is one of the most striking visuals in nano fishkeeping.

Adult ember tetra size is typically 1.5-2 cm, making them one of the smallest tetras in the trade. They have a slim, slightly compressed body shape typical of small characins, with a rounded head and moderately forked tail. The eye has a subtle iridescent quality that catches the light. There is no lateral line stripe — the clean, uniform colour is the species' signature.

When comparing ember tetra male vs female, the differences are subtle but visible in mature fish. Males tend to be slightly slimmer and more intensely coloured, with a hint of deeper red on the body and fins. Females are typically a little rounder in the belly, especially when carrying eggs, and may appear very slightly paler — though both sexes display excellent colour when healthy. In a well-conditioned group, gravid females can be identified by their noticeably fuller body profile.

Why Do My Ember Tetras Look Pale?

This is one of the most common questions from new keepers, and the answer is almost always environmental. Pale ember tetras are not defective — they are responding to their conditions. The most common causes of colour loss are: bright light without plant cover, pale or white substrate, stress from aggressive tank mates, poor diet (dry food only, no frozen supplements), and new-tank syndrome. Fix the environment and the colour follows, usually within one to two weeks.

How to Get the Best Colour From Ember Tetras

Colour enhancement in ember tetras is not about additives or special supplements — it is about recreating the conditions that trigger their natural chromatophore response. Here is what makes the biggest difference, ranked by impact:

1. Dark substrate. This is the single most effective change. Ember tetras over dark aquasoil or black sand display dramatically more intense colour than the same fish over pale gravel. The biological mechanism is real — dark backgrounds trigger melanophore expansion, which intensifies the overlying orange pigmentation.

2. Tannins. Indian almond leaves, alder cones, or driftwood that leach tannins into the water create a slight amber tint. Under these conditions, embers glow their richest. The tannins also slightly lower pH and provide natural antibacterial properties.

3. Varied diet with frozen foods. Frozen cyclops and baby brine shrimp contain natural carotenoids that directly contribute to orange and red pigmentation. Fish fed only dry food will always be paler than fish receiving regular frozen supplements.

4. Subdued lighting. Floating plants that create dappled shade encourage the fish to swim openly and display confidently. Under harsh light with no cover, they retreat to the back of the tank and pale out.

5. Group size. Fish in larger groups feel more secure, school more naturally, and display better colour. A group of 20 will always look more vivid than a group of 6 in the same tank.

Colour Tip

The fastest way to transform pale ember tetras is to add dark substrate and floating plants in the same week. Within 7-14 days, the difference is usually dramatic. Pair this with frozen cyclops twice a week and you will see the full genetic colour potential of your fish.

What Fish Can Live With Ember Tetras? Tank Mate Guide

The ember tetra behaviour profile is peaceful, social, and non-territorial. These fish occupy the middle water and spend their time gently drifting through plants in a loose shoal. They have no fin-nipping tendency and are too small to bother anything else in the tank. This makes them one of the most compatible community fish available — but their tiny size means you need to choose tank mates that will not eat them or outcompete them for food.

Ideal Tank Mates

The best ember tetra tank mates are other small, peaceful species that enjoy similar warm, soft water. Excellent choices include:

Other nano fish: Celestial pearl danios, chili rasboras (Boraras brigittae), pygmy corydoras, and green neon tetras all share the same calm temperament and tiny size. Mixed nano communities built around these species are stunning in planted tanks of 45-60 litres.

Corydoras: Both pygmy corydoras (Corydoras pygmaeus and C. habrosus) and standard-sized corydoras are excellent companions. They occupy the bottom of the tank while embers use the midwater, so there is no competition. A group of pygmy corydoras with a shoal of embers is a classic nano combination.

Otocinclus: Peaceful algae-eating catfish that completely ignore ember tetras. They share similar water preferences and add a useful cleaning function to the tank.

Peaceful rasboras: Harlequin rasboras, lambchop rasboras, and other small rasboras are gentle enough to coexist perfectly. In a larger tank, the contrasting body shapes and colours create an appealing mixed display.

The Shrimp Question — Why Ember Tetras Are the Best Shrimp-Safe Fish

This is the big one, and one of the main reasons ember tetras are so popular. Ember tetras and shrimp are one of the safest fish-and-invertebrate combinations in the hobby. Their mouths are genuinely too small to eat adult cherry shrimp, neocaridina, or amano shrimp. Unlike many other tetras — including neon tetras and cardinal tetras — embers pose almost zero threat to established shrimp colonies.

The question most keepers ask is: will ember tetras eat baby shrimp? The honest answer is that they may occasionally pick off the very smallest newborn shrimplets if they happen to encounter one in open water. However, in a planted tank with adequate cover — which is exactly how both species should be kept — shrimp survival rates remain very high. Most experienced shrimp keepers consider ember tetras the safest tetra species for shrimp tanks, and many report thriving shrimp colonies alongside established ember shoals.

For a dedicated ember tetra and cherry shrimp tank, provide plenty of java moss, moss-covered wood, and fine-leaved plants. The shrimp use these as nursery areas where shrimplets can hide and graze safely. In a well-planted 45-litre tank, a colony of 20-30 cherry shrimp with 15 ember tetras is one of the most enjoyable and lowest-maintenance community setups in the hobby.

Species to Avoid

Avoid anything large enough to eat a 2 cm fish. Angelfish, larger cichlids, and predatory species will treat embers as food. Fast, boisterous fish like tiger barbs and giant danios create too much stress and outcompete embers at feeding time. Even some commonly recommended community fish — such as adult gourami or larger barbs — can be problematic simply because of the size mismatch. If a potential tank mate has a mouth wider than 1 cm, think carefully.

Bettas deserve a specific mention. Ember tetras with betta can work in some cases — the embers are too small to nip betta fins, and a calm betta may ignore them entirely. However, an aggressive betta can terrorise a nano tank, and the stress will destroy the embers' colour and confidence. This combination is case-by-case and depends entirely on the individual betta's temperament. If the betta shows any chasing behaviour, separate them immediately.

Community Stocking Examples

30-litre nano: 12 ember tetras + 10 cherry shrimp + 3 nerite snails. Simple, beautiful, easy to maintain.

45-litre planted: 15 ember tetras + 6 pygmy corydoras + 20 cherry shrimp. A classic nano community that runs itself with weekly water changes.

60-litre aquascape: 20 ember tetras + 8 celestial pearl danios + 4 otocinclus + cherry shrimp colony. A stunning display tank with multiple points of interest at every level.

90-litre mixed tetra: 20 ember tetras + 10 green neon tetras + 8 corydoras habrosus. Warm orange and cool blue-green in the same midwater zone, with bottom activity from the corydoras.

Compatibility Tip

When adding ember tetras to an existing community, always add the full group at once rather than in dribs and drabs. A group of 15 introduced together will shoal immediately and settle faster than 5 fish added across three weeks. The safety of numbers is real — it reduces stress, encourages natural behaviour, and brings out better colour from day one.

How to Breed Ember Tetras: A Realistic Guide

Ember tetra breeding is possible in the home aquarium and is considerably easier than breeding many other small tetras. The species is an egg scatterer that will spawn readily in mature, well-planted tanks — and in some cases, fry may appear without the keeper making any deliberate effort. That said, raising a significant number of fry to adulthood requires some planning.

Breeding Setup

A separate breeding tank of 10-20 litres works well. Use very soft, slightly acidic water (pH 5.5-6.5, 1-5 dGH) and keep the temperature at the warmer end of the range, around 26-27°C. Fine-leaved plants — java moss, Taxiphyllum, or spawning mops — provide surfaces for the fish to scatter eggs among. Lighting should be dim, and filtration should be a gentle air-driven sponge to avoid sucking up eggs or fry.

Spawning Behaviour

Condition a group of 6-8 adults with frozen and live foods for 1-2 weeks before moving them to the breeding tank. Spawning typically occurs in the morning. Males display to females with subtle fin flaring and chasing through plant cover. The female scatters small, slightly adhesive eggs among fine-leaved plants. A single spawning may produce 20-40 eggs, though individual clutch size varies.

Egg Care & Hatching

Remove the adults after spawning, as they will eat the eggs if given the opportunity. Eggs are tiny and semi-transparent — they can be difficult to spot. Hatching occurs within 24-36 hours at 26°C. The newly hatched fry are extremely small and will absorb their yolk sac for 2-3 days before becoming free-swimming. Keep the tank dark during this period — bright light can reduce hatch rates.

Fry Care & Growth

Free-swimming fry need infusoria, paramecium, or commercially available liquid fry food for the first week. They are too small for freshly hatched brine shrimp initially. After 7-10 days, introduce micro worms and then newly hatched brine shrimp as the fry grow large enough to accept them. Growth is slow — expect 4-6 weeks before the fry begin to show colour, and 3-4 months before they reach a size suitable for the main tank.

Water quality is critical during fry rearing. Small, frequent water changes (10% every 2-3 days) using water of the same temperature and chemistry prevent waste buildup without shocking the fry. A small sponge filter provides both aeration and biological filtration without endangering the tiny fish.

Spontaneous Breeding in Planted Tanks

One of the joys of keeping ember tetras is that they sometimes breed spontaneously in well-established planted tanks. If you have a densely planted aquarium with a mature ember shoal and no egg-eating tank mates, you may spot tiny fry hiding in the moss and plant cover. Survival rates are low without intervention, but in a tank with plentiful microorganism populations and dense cover, some fry will make it to adulthood on their own. Shrimp-only tank mates improve fry survival significantly, as shrimp do not hunt fish fry.

Breeding Tip

If you want fry to survive in a community tank without setting up a separate breeding tank, maximise java moss coverage and add a mature sponge filter. The moss provides hiding spots, and the sponge supports the microorganism populations that fry need as their first food. Reducing tank mates to shrimp only gives the best survival rates outside a dedicated breeding setup.

Common Health Problems & How to Keep Ember Tetras Healthy

Ember tetras are generally hardy fish that rarely suffer from species-specific diseases. Most health problems are caused by poor water quality, temperature instability, or stress from inappropriate tank mates. Prevention is straightforward: maintain clean water, stable temperature, and a calm environment.

Common Issues

Ich (white spot disease): The most common disease affecting any tropical fish. Tiny white spots on the body and fins, accompanied by flashing (rubbing against objects). Usually triggered by temperature drops or the introduction of infected new fish. Treat by raising temperature to 28-30°C gradually and, if necessary, using a half-dose of ich medication suitable for small characins.

Colour loss: Not a disease but the most common complaint. Pale ember tetras are almost always a husbandry issue — bright lighting, pale substrate, poor diet, stress, or new-tank syndrome. Fix the environment before assuming illness.

Fin rot: Frayed or eroding fins caused by bacterial infection, usually following stress or poor water quality. Improve water conditions with more frequent water changes. Severe cases may need antibacterial treatment.

Internal parasites: Occasionally seen in newly imported fish. Signs include wasting (thin body despite feeding), white stringy faeces, and lethargy. Quarantine new arrivals for 2-3 weeks to catch this before it reaches the main tank.

Prevention

The best health strategy for ember tetras is simple: stable water, regular maintenance, varied diet, and quarantine for all new arrivals. Weekly 20-25% water changes, consistent temperature, and a test kit used regularly will prevent the vast majority of problems. These are robust little fish when their basic needs are met.

Health Warning

When medicating a nano tank, dose very carefully. The small water volume means medication concentration can spike quickly. Always follow dosage instructions precisely, and if using a treatment not specifically labelled for small characins, start with a half dose. Remove activated carbon from the filter during treatment, as it absorbs medication.

Ember Tetra vs Similar Species: Which Nano Fish Is Right for You?

The nano fish category has grown enormously in recent years, and ember tetras face real competition from several excellent species. Here is how they compare with the most popular alternatives:

Ember tetra vs neon tetra: Neons are larger (3-4 cm vs 2 cm), need bigger tanks (60 litres minimum), and display blue and red rather than uniform orange. Embers are better for true nano tanks, better with shrimp, and easier to keep. Neons offer more colour contrast but need more space.

Ember tetra vs chili rasbora: Both are excellent nano fish of similar size. Chili rasboras (Boraras brigittae) are red with a dark lateral stripe, while embers are uniformly orange. Chilis are slightly more demanding regarding water softness. Both are superb shrimp-safe choices — personal colour preference usually decides it.

Ember tetra vs celestial pearl danio: CPDs are slightly larger, bottom-to-mid-dwellers, and show a spotted pattern. They are less of a tight shoaler than embers but equally peaceful. In a nano tank, embers provide midwater movement while CPDs add interest lower down — many keepers combine both.

Ember tetra vs cardinal tetra: Cardinals are significantly larger (5 cm), need bigger tanks (60 litres minimum), and are rated intermediate rather than easy. Cardinals create a bolder blue-red display in larger aquariums, while embers dominate the nano scale. For shrimp tanks, embers are the safer choice by a wide margin.

Ember tetra vs green neon tetra: Green neons are slightly larger and show cool blue-green tones rather than warm orange. Both are excellent in planted tanks. Embers stand out better against green plants; green neons complement dark wood and leaf litter setups.

Why Buy Ember Tetras from Tropical Fish Co?

When ordering ember tetras for sale UK, the condition of the fish on arrival matters more than anything else. We select bright, active fish from well-maintained stock tanks and ship them in insulated packaging with heat packs during colder months. Because embers are tiny, packing and transit temperature are especially important — a small fish chills faster than a large one, so thermal protection is not optional.

Each group is checked for feeding response, body condition, and colour before dispatch. We do not send pale, stressed fish. When you open the bag, the embers should already look orange and active — not washed out and hiding. This is particularly important for customers searching buy ember tetras UK or ember tetras for sale online, because a bad first batch can put people off a species that, when properly sourced, is one of the easiest and most rewarding fish to keep.

We also provide honest advice on group size. A single ember tetra or a group of 3-4 is a waste of the species' potential. We recommend buying 10 as an absolute minimum, and our best-selling groups reflect the fact that most experienced keepers want 15-20. A proper shoal in a planted tank is a completely different experience from a handful of lonely fish in a bare aquarium.

Order your Ember Tetras today for one of the most beautiful, easiest, and most shrimp-compatible nano fish available in the UK hobby.

Why Choose Tropical Fish Co for Ember Tetras

• Fish are selected for vivid orange colour and active feeding behaviour before dispatch
• Insulated packaging with seasonal heat protection for safe UK delivery
• Honest group-size guidance — we recommend 10+ for the best experience
• Shrimp-compatibility advice included because we keep both species ourselves

You Might Also Like

Build a fuller nano community with Cherry Shrimp — the most popular companion species for ember tetras and a perfect addition to any planted nano tank. For bottom-dwelling interest, Corydoras add movement at the substrate level without disturbing the embers above. If you want a cool-toned contrast in a larger tank, Neon Tetras pair their blue-red stripe against the embers' warm orange. For algae control in the same gentle community, Otocinclus are an ideal match — peaceful, small, and completely disinterested in your tetras or shrimp.

Answers to the most common questions

Ember Tetra Care

Ember Tetra care is considered easy. They need a tank of at least 30 litres, temperature of 20-28 °C, and pH in the 5.0-7.0 range. Dark substrate and dense planting bring out the best colour. See the full care specs above.

Ember Tetra Tank Mates

The best ember tetra tank mates are other small, peaceful species — cherry shrimp, pygmy corydoras, celestial pearl danios, chili rasboras, and otocinclus. Avoid anything large enough to eat a 2 cm fish.

Ember Tetra For Sale

We currently stock Ember Tetras with UK delivery. Scroll down to the shop block for live prices and add-to-cart.

Ember Tetra Size

Ember Tetras typically reach an adult size of around 2 cm and live up to 4 years with good care. They are one of the smallest tetras in the trade.

Ember Tetra and Shrimp

Ember tetras are widely considered the safest tetra for shrimp tanks. Their mouths are too small to eat adult shrimp, and they rarely bother shrimplets in planted tanks. This makes them the top choice for cherry shrimp and neocaridina communities.

Ember Tetra Nano Tank

A 30-litre planted tank is enough for a group of 10-12 ember tetras. They are one of the best true nano fish available — small enough for desktop tanks while still creating a stunning display in larger aquascapes.