
Neocaridina Shrimp (Neocaridina denticulata)
17–27°C · pH 6.5–8
The Black Cherry Shrimp is a dark colour line of Neocaridina davidi, the cherry shrimp, with heavy dark pigment over the body. Keep six or more in a mature, planted tank of 20 litres or more at 21–26°C and pH 6.5–8.0, with no copper and no other cherry shrimp colours. Sold singly as one live shrimp.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Neocaridina davidi
Choose a quantity for your aquarium. Discount thresholds are pricing offers, not a stocking recommendation.
The Black Cherry Shrimp is a dark colour line of Neocaridina davidi, the cherry shrimp, with heavy dark pigment over the body. Keep six or more in a mature, planted tank of 20 litres or more at 21–26°C and pH 6.5–8.0, with no copper and no other cherry shrimp colours. Sold singly as one live shrimp.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.

Use a mature, filtered aquarium and measured water—not a shrimp-per-litre rule. Tropical Fish Co uses 20 litres as a cautious starting policy for a small Cherry Shrimp group, above OATA's general 10-litre screen for small shrimp. Provide established grazing surfaces, cover and a protected filter inlet. No fish is guaranteed shrimplet-safe, and breeding should never be promised.
Read the full care guidance when planning conditions for your aquarium.
The Black Cherry Shrimp is a dark colour line of Neocaridina davidi, the hardy freshwater shrimp sold in many colours as the cherry shrimp. In our photographs the shrimp is a deep, dark cherry red heavily peppered with near-black pigment, with lighter, speckled legs and long fine antennae. Dark lines vary from shrimp to shrimp in how dense that pigment is, so some individuals look closer to wine-red and others closer to charcoal. Either way, a group of dark shrimp moving over green moss makes a smart, understated display, and it is as easy to keep as any cherry shrimp.
Wikipedia's account of the species explains where the colour comes from. Black shrimp carry black melanophores, or brown melanophores over bluish flesh; chocolate shrimp carry dark brown melanophores, with red or yellow pigment cells adding to the shade. The wild shrimp, from Taiwan, eastern China, the Korean Peninsula and Vietnam, is a mottled greenish-brown, and Practical Fishkeeping's introduction to shrimp lists black and brown among the colours breeders have developed from it.
| Shrimp | How it differs |
|---|---|
| Black Cherry | This line: dark pigment over the whole body, varying from deep red-black to charcoal |
| Black Rose Shrimp | Another dark N. davidi line; the trade names overlap |
| Carbon Rili Shrimp and Full Black Rili Shrimp | Dark lines of the same species sold under Rili names |
| Black Choco Shrimp and Chocolate Cherry Shrimp | Dark brown lines built on brown melanophores |
All of these are the same species and will interbreed, so choose one dark line per tank.
One purchase quantity supplies one live Black Cherry Shrimp, unsexed at sale size. Wikipedia notes that females are larger, more richly coloured and more opaque than males, so the darkest shrimp in a group are usually females, and a male of the same line can look noticeably paler. The Shrimp Farm's grading guide makes the same point for red cherry shrimp: males often grade a step lower than their sisters. A newly moved shrimp also loses colour for a while, so the photographs show the colour form rather than the individual you receive.
Read our live delivery information and order once the aquarium is fully cycled.
OATA's minimum for a group of small shrimp is 10 litres, and Practical Fishkeeping's FAQ accepts about 15 litres if the tank is well planted and filtered. We recommend 20 litres or more, because a bigger volume holds its temperature and water quality steadier, and a colony that breeds needs the room.
| Item | Why it helps a dark shrimp |
|---|---|
| Dark sand, kept under 2 cm deep | Practical Fishkeeping's author chooses a dark sand that resists compaction and enhances colour |
| Bright green moss and plants | Dark shrimp stand out against green, and the leaves grow the biofilm they graze |
| Wood and smooth, lime-free stones | More grazing surface; test rocks with vinegar and avoid any that fizz |
| Pesticide-free plants only | Practical Fishkeeping warns that plant insecticides kill shrimp |
| A lid | OATA recommends one to stop shrimp jumping out |
Place the aquarium away from radiators, draughts, loud noise and direct sunlight, as OATA advises, and give it a regular day and night lighting cycle.
Every colour of cherry shrimp has the same needs. The sources below differ a little on hardness, so we give each one and a planning range in the middle.
| Value | Best range | Tolerated or wider range | Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 21–26°C | About 18°C for long periods, up to 28°C; OATA 17–27°C | Practical Fishkeeping FAQ; OATA |
| pH | 6.5–8.0 | 6.5–8.0 | OATA; Practical Fishkeeping |
| General hardness | 8–15 GH | 4–18 (OATA); 8–18 (Practical Fishkeeping); 5–15, middle best for breeding (Neale Monks) | All three |
| Carbonate hardness | 5–15 KH | 3–15 (OATA) | Practical Fishkeeping; OATA |
| Ammonia and nitrite | Zero | Not tolerated; even traces of ammonia are fatal | OATA; Practical Fishkeeping FAQ |
Higher temperatures speed growth and breeding but shorten life, the FAQ notes, and warm water holds less oxygen, so add aeration if the tank runs near the top of the range.
Our water matcher shows quickly whether your tap water suits cherry shrimp as it is.
Air-driven sponge filters and Hamburg mat filters are the FAQ's suggestions for shrimp, and Practical Fishkeeping's introduction adds that a sponge doubles as a grazing ground for young shrimp. On a power filter, cover the intake with fine foam or a stocking and reduce the flow.
The FAQ lists ammonia spikes after cleaning the filter among the common causes of losses, which is why the filter and the substrate are best cleaned on different weeks. Our guide to shrimp keeping explains the routine in more detail.
In a mature tank, Black Cherry Shrimp spend the day picking biofilm, algae and detritus from every surface; Wikipedia notes they do not eat vascular plants. OATA suggests algae wafers or shrimp pellets two or three times a week, left in for at least 30 minutes, and warns that uneaten food breaks down into toxic waste. The FAQ adds that foods with calcium and iodine, often seaweed-based, help shrimp moult cleanly.
| Food | How to use it |
|---|---|
| Our green algae wafers | A small piece the group clears within a few hours |
| Our spirulina granules | A pinch, crushed for young shrimp, which Practical Fishkeeping says need only biofilm or powdered spirulina |
| Blanched vegetables | Spinach, courgette, cucumber, nettle or dandelion now and then, as Practical Fishkeeping's author uses |
| Shed shells | Leave them; Wikipedia notes shrimp eat them to recover nutrients |
In a shrimp-only tank there are no fish leftovers, so target feed small amounts rather than relying on scraps.
OATA's floating method works for cherry shrimp: turn the lights off, float the sealed bag for 10 minutes, then add tank water gradually over at least 30 minutes before netting the shrimp into the tank and discarding the bag water. If your water is very different from ours, Practical Fishkeeping's introduction describes a drip at one to two drops a second for about an hour.
| When | Check |
|---|---|
| Before arrival | Ammonia and nitrite at zero, temperature steady |
| Release | Lights low; expect some hiding for a day |
| Days one and two | Little or no food; the shrimp should be grazing |
| Days three to six | Small feeds; count shrimp as they come to food |
| Day seven | Full water test and the first 25% change |
Dark shrimp can be hard to count on dark sand, so feeding time, when they gather in the open, is the best moment for a head count.
A pale, hollow moult can look alarming beside dark shrimp, but Practical Fishkeeping's introduction gives a simple rule: a moult is never coloured and a dead shrimp is never transparent. For real losses, the FAQ's list of causes is the best checklist.
| Cause | What to check |
|---|---|
| Copper | New fertiliser, new plants, medicines, hot tap water |
| Failed moulting | Calcium and iodine in the diet; hardness not too low |
| Low oxygen or excess CO2 | Shrimp at the surface or riding the filter outflow |
| Ammonia spike | Recent big stock additions or a filter clean |
| Predation | Fish or larger shrimp harassing them |
| Old age | Practical Fishkeeping says lifespans rarely exceed 12–18 months |
OATA's list of warning signs adds white spots, lesions, damaged shells, colour changes, loss of appetite and unusual swimming. Test the water before any treatment, and never use a copper-based medicine in a shrimp tank.
Practical Fishkeeping is clear that every Neocaridina colour crossbreeds, and that crossed colonies revert to the brownish wild form within a few generations. Even a pure line throws some off-colour young, and the advice is to remove the poorer ones to keep the strain strong.
Browse every colour in our cherry shrimp range and all Neocaridina shrimp, planning one colour per aquarium.
OATA's rule is to avoid any fish that can fit a shrimp in its mouth, and any predatory species. Practical Fishkeeping's FAQ prefers snails and other dwarf shrimp as companions, rates Otocinclus as completely safe even with newborn shrimp, and calls smaller Corydoras and small plecs possibly safe.
| Suits | Avoid |
|---|---|
| Golden Otocinclus | Any fish that can swallow an adult shrimp |
| Snails such as our Parallel Nerite Snail or Blue Ramshorn Snail | Crayfish, large crabs and predatory fish |
| The Amano Shrimp, whose larvae need brackish water (OATA) | Other cherry shrimp colours |
| A shrimp-only tank, for the most young | Copper-based medicines and fertilisers |
Check any other fish with our tank mates checker, and see more clean-up crew in aquarium snails and shrimps and crustaceans.
Black Cherry Shrimp breed readily with no special set-up, given a healthy group, stable water and food. Females usually spawn shortly after a moult. In translucent lines the developing eggs show as a saddle on the female's back, but in a dark shrimp that saddle can be hard to see; the eggs themselves are easy to spot once she carries them under her tail.
| Stage | What the sources say |
|---|---|
| Clutch | 20–30 eggs on the swimmerets (Wikipedia) |
| Carrying time | 2–3 weeks (Wikipedia); about three weeks to a month (Practical Fishkeeping) |
| Young | About 1 mm, looking like tiny adults, with no larval stage |
| Nursery | A mature tank with moss; the FAQ says new tanks lack the micro-organisms the young need |
| Maturity | About two months (Wikipedia); Practical Fishkeeping says breeding starts at about six months |
Never release surplus shrimp outdoors. A peer-reviewed study in Aquatic Invasions found Neocaridina davidi established in a thermally polluted stream system in western Germany and suggested the species may tolerate much colder conditions. Our cherry shrimp care guide and cherry shrimp buying guide cover colony management, and the freshwater shrimp category lists every species we keep.
Both are dark lines of Neocaridina davidi and they interbreed. The names come from breeders and sellers rather than science, so compare the photographs rather than the names.
Dark lines vary. Wikipedia explains that dark colour comes from melanophores layered with other pigment cells, so some shrimp show red or brown through the dark. Stress, a move and pale substrate also lighten them.
Six or more. OATA asks for at least five and Practical Fishkeeping suggests six, because small groups become shy and a larger group widens the gene pool.
Yes. Every cherry shrimp colour is the same species, and Practical Fishkeeping warns that crossed colonies revert to brownish shrimp within a few generations. Keep one colour per tank.
Not in a warm room. They tolerate about 18–28°C, but Practical Fishkeeping says they live longest and breed best at 21–26°C, so heat a tank in a cool room.
Usually, if it is medium-hard and treated with a conditioner. Use cold tap water only, because Practical Fishkeeping links hot tap water to copper poisoning.
Look under the tail, where she carries 20–30 eggs on her swimmerets. The saddle on her back can be hard to see in a dark shrimp, but the eggs themselves are easy to spot.
Wikipedia gives 1–2 years. Practical Fishkeeping says rarely more than 12–18 months, and that warmer water shortens life, so a steady, mid-range temperature helps.
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