Red Dorsal Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma agassizii) – Trade Colour Form

Recognise the Red Dorsal colour form

The Red Dorsal Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid is a trade colour form of Apistogramma agassizii, a South American freshwater cichlid. “Red Dorsal” distinguishes the aquarium colour form while the scientific identity remains A. agassizii. This is a small, bottom-oriented cichlid whose aquarium should be planned around territory, cover and stable water rather than colour alone.

FishBase records Apistogramma agassizii in the Amazon River basin from Peru through Brazil to the Capim River basin. Adults inhabit clear, black and white water and are described as benthopelagic, meaning they live and feed close to the lower part of the water column. This helps explain why floor area, caves and quiet feeding places matter so much in an aquarium.

Use size figures for different decisions

Allow for the larger planning figure when arranging caves and territorial boundaries. Standard length is measured without the tail, so the fish’s visible nose-to-tail length can appear greater. The different published figures should not be used to predict the size or sex of an individual animal.

This cichlid suits a keeper prepared to measure water, maintain a mature biological filter and watch social behaviour. Its modest body size does not remove the need for a broad aquarium footprint because territorial encounters happen around the bottom, cave entrances and sheltered feeding places.

Understand the animal and dispatch size

One purchase supplies one animal. The recorded dispatch grade is 3–4 cm. Dispatch size describes the fish at the point it is sent; it must not be treated as its adult size or as a guide to sex, life stage or origin.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Red Dorsal Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Do not order two fish on the assumption that they will form a male-and-female pair. Seriously Fish describes males as generally larger, more colourful and more extended in the fins than females, but appearance is biological background rather than a guarantee for the animal selected. Social planning must therefore work even if multiple animals do not form the combination you hoped for.

Plan before choosing a quantity

• For one fish: provide the full structured footprint, several retreats and calm feeding access rather than treating a single animal as suitable for a small unstructured aquarium.
• For a proposed pair: allow separate hiding places and sight breaks because even settled dwarf-cichlid pairs will often chase one another.
• For a group: use larger quarters than the pair footprint and divide the bottom into distinct territories before adding fish.
• For a community: assess the adult dimensions, water overlap, bottom-space demands and likely breeding behaviour of every proposed species.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Red and blue colour coverage, fin extension and body markings can vary between individual fish. Use the photograph to understand the general Red Dorsal appearance, not to select a guaranteed individual, sex or exact pattern.

Reference: reviewed public source.

Plan the aquarium around space and water

The decisive starting point is a mature aquarium with a base of at least 60 × 30 cm for a pair-style setup. Seriously Fish gives 60 × 30 cm and about 54 litres as acceptable for a single pair, with larger quarters required for a group. OATA recommends at least 60 litres for a dwarf-cichlid pair and at least 80 litres when mixing dwarf cichlids with other fish. Use the larger requirement whenever your proposed stocking creates more territories or competition.

For routine care, aim for 26–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–10°dGH. These working values sit within FishBase’s environmental records, the Seriously Fish aquarium ranges and OATA’s narrower dwarf-cichlid guidance. Stability is more useful than repeatedly moving the aquarium between the edges of those ranges.

Build the essential features first

A broad base is more important than a tall column of unused water because the fish feeds and establishes territory near the bottom. Place caves so their entrances do not all face one another, then use wood, plants or other cover to interrupt direct lines of sight.

Prepare and mature the biological filter before adding livestock. Our first tropical aquarium guide explains the preparation sequence, while the detailed sections below cover the water, structure, feeding and introduction decisions for this fish.

If you want to compare this animal with other regional cichlids before deciding, browse the South American cichlid collection and screen each candidate against the same water and territory requirements.

Check whether this animal suits the aquarium

Hold a stable soft, acidic range

Use 26–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–10°dGH as the routine target. OATA’s dwarf-cichlid sheet gives 22–27°C, pH 6.0–8.0 and 4–12°dGH for the group; the target here also stays within the relevant species ranges from FishBase and Seriously Fish.

FishBase records 26–29°C, pH 5.0–7.0 and 0–12 dH for the wild environment. Seriously Fish gives 22–29°C and 0–10°dGH for aquarium care, while its pH discussion says some wild populations may require values as low as pH 3.0–4.0 to breed. That specialised breeding condition is not the routine target for this offer. Keep ordinary maintenance within pH 6.0–7.0 unless you are managing a deliberately researched breeding project.

Measure before making a change

1. Test the aquarium’s temperature, pH and general hardness rather than estimating from tap-water reputation or appearance.
2. Compare the results with the 26–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–10°dGH working range using the water matcher.
3. If a value lies outside the range, identify why before adjusting it. A sudden corrective swing can create a second problem even when the final number looks suitable.
4. Recheck after maintenance so that replacement water has not produced an abrupt change.

Our aquarium water chemistry guide explains what the measurements mean. Record results with the date, water change and any observed behaviour. A short log makes gradual movement visible and helps separate a water issue from a territorial or feeding issue.

Ammonia and nitrite must remain at 0 mg/l. OATA also advises keeping nitrate no more than 20 mg/l above the normal tap-water level. These waste values are not optional additions to the temperature and mineral targets: a fish can be inside the stated pH and temperature range while still being exposed to toxic nitrogen waste.

Match replacement water carefully and use tap-water conditioner before it enters the aquarium. Avoid chasing a precise decimal with repeated chemical additions; aim instead for a stable point inside the range and confirm it through regular measurement.

Protect the biological filter and water quality

A mature biological filter is essential. The RSPCA explains that filter bacteria convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to safer nitrate. Both ammonia and nitrite are toxic, so a clear-looking aquarium is not enough; test the water to confirm that the filter is processing waste.

Seriously Fish describes the species as preferring gentle water movement. For an aquarium of about 54 litres, it suggests a filter flow of roughly 110–160 litres per hour. Treat that as a planning guide for the stated aquarium size rather than a promise that every filter with that rating will create identical movement. Media, pipework, blockages and outlet position all affect the flow experienced by the fish.

Complete the weekly routine

• Test first: measure ammonia and nitrite at least weekly and confirm both remain at 0 mg/l.
• Change water: at least once every week, complete a 25% partial water change using conditioned replacement water.
• Remove waste: siphon debris from accessible substrate without stripping every sheltered area at once.
• Check flow: inspect the intake and outlet for blockages and make sure the current remains gentle around resting and feeding sites.
• Clean safely: lightly rinse filter media in removed aquarium water when necessary; do not run it under the tap.

Do not replace or deep-clean all biological media during the same maintenance session. Chlorine or chloramine can damage the bacterial population, while excessive cleaning can remove the organisms that process fish waste. A lightly rinsed, functioning filter is more valuable than media made visually spotless.

Add livestock slowly. Every additional fish and every increase in feeding raises the waste load, and the bacterial population needs time to respond. If ammonia or nitrite rises above 0 mg/l, pause further additions, test again, complete an appropriate conditioned water change and reduce avoidable feeding waste while the filter recovers.

Watch the fish as well as the test kit. Faster gill movement, surface hanging, bottom sitting, erratic swimming, unusual hiding or reduced feeding can accompany deteriorating conditions. Test the water immediately when behaviour changes, even if the scheduled weekly test is not yet due.

Divide the bottom into useful territories

Begin with a soft sandy substrate and arrange wood roots or branches to create shaded areas, narrow approaches and visual barriers. Seriously Fish recommends plenty of cover and structure, with caves formed by natural or artificial materials. Ceramic flowerpots, suitable pipe sections and purpose-made caves can all work when they are stable, smooth and positioned securely.

Use more than one retreat. A single prominent cave can become the only defensible resource, increasing repeated encounters at its entrance. Place caves at different angles and separate them with wood, plants or ornaments so a fish leaving one shelter is not immediately facing another territory.

Give each feature a job

Dried beech, oak or Ketapang almond leaves can be added as leaf litter. As they decompose, they encourage microbial colonies that may provide secondary food for fry and release tannins appreciated by many populations. Leaves may be allowed to break down or removed and replaced every few weeks. Add them deliberately rather than allowing the entire bottom to become inaccessible for observation and cleaning.

Keep the layout stable once the fish has settled unless behaviour shows that the territories are failing. Constant rearrangement removes familiar retreats. Conversely, repeated chasing across the whole aquarium is a reason to add barriers or revise the stocking plan rather than waiting for the pursued fish to adapt.

Check that all décor is secure before filling the aquarium. Caves should not roll, branches should not trap a fish, and narrow gaps should not create dead ends. Leave enough open frontage to deliver food and see whether the fish emerges, eats and swims normally.

Feed for bottom-oriented carnivorous behaviour

Seriously Fish describes Apistogramma agassizii as primarily carnivorous and reports that it feeds mainly on benthic invertebrates in nature. In the aquarium, offer live or frozen Artemia, Daphnia and chironomid larvae such as bloodworm regularly. Most specimens may also learn to accept dried alternatives, with pelleted products generally preferred to flake.

OATA’s dwarf-cichlid guidance recommends feeding once a day and giving only the quantity eaten within a few minutes. Use that schedule as the starting routine. Place food where it reaches the fish’s lower territory without accumulating behind caves or beneath wood, then observe whether the portion is actually consumed.

Judge the portion by the outcome

• If all food disappears promptly and the fish remains actively searching: make only a small adjustment at the next feed rather than adding repeated portions immediately.
• If food remains after a few minutes: remove what you can and reduce the next portion.
• If faster tank mates take everything: change the feeding position or sequence so food reaches the sheltered lower area.
• If the fish refuses a familiar food: check water quality and behaviour before offering increasingly large amounts.
• If waste begins collecting near a retreat: alter delivery placement and include that area in careful siphoning.

Variety means rotating suitable foods, not feeding every item in one oversized meal. Live and frozen foods support the species’ natural animal-food preference, while an accepted quality pellet offers a practical dried option. Freeze-dried bloodworm and freeze-dried Artemia are also included in the Seriously Fish feeding suggestions.

Overfeeding creates a water-quality problem as uneaten food breaks down and releases waste. This matters particularly around caves, where food may be hidden from view and gentle circulation may not move it towards the filter. The correct portion is the amount the fish consumes within a few minutes while maintaining good body condition and clean water.

Reduced appetite is an observation cue rather than a reason to leave extra food in the aquarium. Test ammonia and nitrite, check temperature, look for territorial pressure and inspect the fish’s breathing and appearance before deciding how to alter the next meal.

Introduce the fish without a sudden change

Prepare the aquarium before the animal arrives. Confirm that the filter is mature, the heater is holding 26–27°C, ammonia and nitrite are both 0 mg/l, and the pH and hardness are within the planned range. Complete major layout work in advance so caves and visual barriers are ready from the first release.

Follow the arrival sequence

1. Be present to receive the parcel.
2. Start filming before the sealed parcel is opened, keep the outer box visible and record one continuous take through opening and showing the fish inside the sealed bag.
3. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes, following our delivery and acclimatisation policy.
4. Release the fish carefully without pouring transport water into the aquarium.

Allow the fish to find cover without chasing it into open water for an immediate inspection. The first useful signs are controlled swimming, normal balance, steady breathing and the ability to choose a retreat. Hiding by itself can be a settling response in this shy, cover-oriented cichlid. Judge it alongside breathing, posture, colour, feeding response and water tests rather than treating one behaviour in isolation.

Use first-week checkpoints

Do not make several speculative changes at once if the fish remains hidden. First test the water and check whether exposed décor or an active tank mate is preventing it from emerging. Change the factor you can identify, then observe the result.

If ammonia or nitrite appears after introduction, stop further livestock additions and protect the biological filter. Use conditioned replacement water for maintenance and avoid cleaning filter media under the tap. The aquarium’s bacterial population must adjust to the new waste load without being stripped away.

Use observation to catch problems early

Establish a normal baseline for this individual during the first week. Note where it rests, how it approaches food, its usual breathing rate, colour and response to movement outside the aquarium. Individual behaviour varies, so a change from that baseline is often more useful than comparing the fish with a fixed expectation.

OATA highlights changes in swimming, colour, temperament, breathing, appearance, body condition and feeding as warning signs. Examples include hanging at the surface, sitting unusually on the bottom, erratic swimming, becoming darker or paler, hiding more than usual, faster or slower gill movement, white spots, fluffy growths, damaged fins or scales, weight change and reduced appetite.

Match the observation to the first action

Water testing is the first response to many changes because ammonia and nitrite can affect behaviour and breathing before the aquarium looks dirty. Record the result before a water change when it is safe to do so, then record the follow-up result. This shows whether water quality was involved and whether the action worked.

Do not add a treatment simply because two symptoms look similar. The evidence for a disease decision must come from the complete pattern of appearance, behaviour, water results and recent events. Protect water quality, remove immediate hazards and seek a diagnosis before choosing a treatment.

During the first month, continue the same routine: at least once every week, complete a 25% partial water change and test the water rather than relaxing the schedule as soon as the fish begins feeding. A stable month provides a useful baseline for later changes in appetite, colour or territorial behaviour.

Keep the routine consistent through each month

A reliable routine protects this fish from the combined effects of waste accumulation and social stress. At least once every week, use the same core sequence: observe before disturbing the aquarium, test ammonia and nitrite, record the results, complete a 25% partial water change, remove accessible debris and inspect the filter for blocked flow.

Condition replacement tap water before adding it. Keep its temperature close enough to avoid an abrupt aquarium change and do not run biological media under the tap. Lightly rinse media in removed aquarium water only when flow or accumulated debris shows that cleaning is needed.

Review these decisions every month

• Territory: confirm that every fish can reach shelter and food without crossing a permanently defended route.
• Caves: check for unstable décor, trapped debris and entrances that now face directly into another territory.
• Leaf litter: allow suitable leaves to break down or replace them every few weeks, according to the chosen appearance and maintenance plan.
• Flow: make sure plant growth, debris or media loading has not turned gentle circulation into a blocked or stagnant pattern.
• Body condition: compare current appearance and feeding response with the individual’s established baseline.
• Stocking: reconsider space before adding any fish, especially another bottom-oriented or territorial animal.

Change one management factor at a time whenever possible. If feeding waste is accumulating, first adjust portion size or delivery position. If one fish is hiding because another controls the bottom, changing food alone will not repair the territorial problem. If test values are moving, address the filter and maintenance cause rather than disguising the result with repeated adjustments.

The larger the community, the more important this discipline becomes. OATA’s minimum of 80 litres for mixing dwarf cichlids with other fish is a starting volume, not permission to fill every zone. Adult dimensions, waste load, swimming activity and territorial boundaries still determine whether the particular combination works.

Keep a dated record of water tests, water changes, filter work, feeding changes and unusual behaviour. This creates a practical history of the aquarium and helps identify whether a problem followed a new animal, increased feeding, altered décor or interrupted maintenance.

Screen community fish by behaviour and water

Compatibility depends on shared water requirements, adequate space and the behaviour of the individual fish. OATA says dwarf cichlids can live in community aquariums but may become territorial, especially during breeding. It also warns that shy Apistogramma may not do well with very active or boisterous tank mates.

Start with the routine target of 26–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–10°dGH. Reject any proposed combination whose normal care range does not overlap those values. A fish should not be kept at the edge of its own range solely to make the combination appear workable.

Apply the full compatibility screen

Seriously Fish recommends captive-raised examples for a general community and says wild examples are best maintained alone or with small dither fish such as Nannostomus. The origin of an animal must never be inferred from its size, colour or image, so use the conservative behavioural screen: calm small dither fish with matching water may work, but no named tank mate is automatic.

Avoid other Apistogramma where the aquarium cannot maintain separate territories; Seriously Fish advises that wild examples ideally should not be mixed with them. When breeding is intended, OATA advises avoiding tank mates that may disturb spawning sites or prey on fry.

Observe the combination after introduction. Persistent hiding, missed meals, damaged fins, repeated chasing or one fish controlling all cave approaches means the plan needs intervention, regardless of the species names involved.

Plan multiple dwarf cichlids conservatively

Do not use purchase quantity as a shortcut to forming a pair or group. FishBase notes an aquarium arrangement of several females for one male, while Seriously Fish says a 60 × 30 cm base is acceptable for a single pair and a group requires larger quarters. Those social patterns only help when the sexes, space and individual behaviour actually fit the plan.

For more than one dwarf cichlid, increase the bottom area and create separate cave zones before introducing the fish. Each zone should contain cover, a retreat and an approach that is not visible from every other cave. A larger litre figure without visual barriers may still leave all fish competing for one usable territory.

Choose the response from the behaviour

• Brief display followed by withdrawal: continue close observation while confirming that each fish can use a retreat and feed.
• One fish repeatedly blocks a cave: add or reposition sight barriers so the entrance is not on a shared open route.
• A fish remains hidden and misses meals: deliver food near its cover and assess whether separation is required.
• Chasing crosses the entire aquarium: separate the animals rather than relying on the pursued fish to settle.
• A female guards a cave: expect stronger territorial behaviour and make sure other fish can leave the defended area.
• Injuries appear: remove the immediate conflict and inspect the layout for trapping points.

Eggs are laid in crevices or cavities, and the female tends the eggs and fry. In smaller aquariums she may become highly aggressive after spawning, and Seriously Fish notes that the male may need to be removed. This behaviour is why a calm community can change quickly around an occupied cave.

FishBase’s several-females-to-one-male note is not a direction to add randomly selected animals until that ratio appears. Do not assume that two purchases are opposite sex, socially compatible or ready to share a territory. Plan enough space and a separation option for every multi-fish arrangement.

Stocking uncertainty is best handled before purchase. For a proposed community, compare adult planning sizes, routine water ranges, activity levels and bottom-territory use, then ask us for one stocking and compatibility assessment if the interaction remains unclear.

Answer key buying and care questions

Is the Red Dorsal Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid a separate species?

No. Red Dorsal is a trade colour-form name, while the fish’s scientific identity is Apistogramma agassizii.

What does one purchase of Apistogramma agassizii supply?

One purchase supplies one fish. Do not treat a quantity of two as a guaranteed pair.

What size is the Red Dorsal Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid at dispatch?

The recorded dispatch grade is 3–4 cm. Dispatch size is not adult size.

What aquarium does this fish need?

Use a mature aquarium with a base of at least 60 × 30 cm for a pair-style setup, with sand, several caves, wood, shaded cover and gentle filtration. Plan at least 80 litres for a mixed dwarf-cichlid community.

Must it be kept as a pair or group?

No pair is required by the offer. FishBase notes several females for one male, but groups require larger quarters and randomly selected fish must not be assumed to form a compatible sex combination.

What water suits Apistogramma agassizii?

Aim for a stable routine of 26–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–10°dGH, with ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/l.

What should this fish eat?

Offer live or frozen Artemia, Daphnia and bloodworm regularly, alongside an accepted quality pellet. Feed once daily and only what is eaten within a few minutes.

How should it be acclimatised?

Start filming before opening the sealed parcel, keeping one continuous take through opening and showing the fish inside the sealed bag. Then float the bag for 20–30 minutes, release the fish carefully without adding transport water to the aquarium, and let it settle among prepared cover.

Which tank mates suit the Red Dorsal Agassiz's Dwarf Cichlid?

Choose calm fish whose routine water range overlaps 26–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–10°dGH, and ensure they do not overwhelm its bottom territory. Small Nannostomus may work as dither fish, while other Apistogramma and boisterous tank mates require a conservative screen.

Check the care references

• FishBase: Apistogramma agassizii — scientific identity, family, distribution, environmental range, standard-length record, social note and cave-spawning biology.
• Seriously Fish: Apistogramma agassizii — aquarium dimensions, planning lengths, water conditions, décor, feeding, behaviour and reproduction.
• OATA: How to look after dwarf cichlids — UK group care covering water quality, aquarium volume, maintenance, feeding, introduction and community screening.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance — biological filtration and the processing of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.