Electric Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher) – Neon Blue, 2–7cm Sizes

Meet the Electric Blue Acara

The Electric Blue Acara (Andinoacara pulcher) is a freshwater cichlid associated with the Blue Acara species from Trinidad and Venezuela. FishBase records a maximum length of 16 cm total length. This Neon Blue form suits a beginner who is prepared to provide the space, filtration, maintenance and carefully screened companions required by a medium-sized cichlid.

Keep it at 22–23°C and pH 6.5–8.0. These routine values are the overlap of FishBase’s recorded environment, the Seriously Fish species profile and OATA’s American-cichlid guidance. Use 5–12 dGH, the overlap of Seriously Fish and OATA. OATA’s figures are group guidance, not a species-specific optimum.

FishBase describes wild adults in turbid standing waters and clear, flowing streams, where they eat worms, crustaceans and insects. In the aquarium, provide a quality dried food suited to a mainly carnivorous cichlid, varied with appropriate meaty foods. The species is described as peaceful for a cichlid of this size, but companions must be too large to swallow and able to share the same water conditions.

Plan for a well-established aquarium rather than treating the bright colour form as a dwarf cichlid. You can also browse our South American cichlid collection when comparing aquarium footprints and care requirements.

Plan around its adult needs

Allow at least 100 cm of aquarium length. FishBase records this as the minimum aquarium size, while Seriously Fish says a base measuring 120 × 30 cm or equivalent is just about sufficient for a pair. Since the recorded adult size is over 15 cm, OATA’s broader American-cichlid guidance places it in the category requiring at least 300 litres. That volume is a group planning figure rather than an individual guarantee of compatibility.

OATA says most American cichlids do better singly or in pairs, while FishBase records aquarium keeping in pairs. A pair must be compatible and needs the larger footprint described above. One fish can instead be planned as the cichlid presence in a community whose other inhabitants pass the adult-size, temperament and water-value checks.

Choose the dispatch size for your aquarium

One purchase supplies one Electric Blue Acara in the size selected from the live size selector. The choices are 2–2.5 cm, 4–5 cm and 6–7 cm. Match the selected size to the mouths, behaviour and feeding access of the fish already in the aquarium, while reserving the permanent space required by a 16 cm adult.

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. A dispatch measurement does not change the adult aquarium requirement. Use the same minimum 100 cm aquarium length and the same adult compatibility screen whichever size you select.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Electric Blue Acara listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Some gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. They show the listed type of animal rather than guaranteeing the exact markings of the individual supplied, so natural colour and pattern can vary.

Before selecting a size

• Check that every existing fish is too large for the adult acara to swallow.
• Confirm that the aquarium already meets the permanent length, water and filtration requirements.
• For a pair plan, provide a base of 120 × 30 cm or equivalent and recognise that compatibility is an additional requirement.
• Use the written dispatch measurements rather than estimating size from a gallery scene.

Allow space for full growth

Plan for an adult length of 16 cm total length. Seriously Fish lists 15 cm standard length, but the 16 cm FishBase maximum is the planning figure used throughout this page. Neither figure is a dispatch measurement.

Use an aquarium at least 100 cm long. For a pair, provide a base measuring 120 × 30 cm or equivalent; Seriously Fish describes that footprint as just about sufficient. Meeting a length figure does not remove the need for adequate water volume, filtration or compatible stocking.

OATA divides its American-cichlid volume guidance by adult size. Because this fish reaches over 15 cm, use at least 300 litres under that broad framework. A longer, larger aquarium also gives the keeper more flexibility when arranging the sandy substrate, driftwood, shaded areas and feeding locations described in the species profile.

Apply the figures to the aquarium you have

• Under 100 cm long: do not use it as the permanent aquarium for this fish.
• At least 100 cm long: assess total volume, filtration, stocking and the adult size of every companion before proceeding.
• Planning a pair: use at least the 120 × 30 cm base or equivalent and the broader 300-litre planning figure.
• Selecting a smaller dispatch size: reserve the adult space from the beginning rather than assigning a smaller permanent aquarium.

Measure the usable aquarium itself rather than relying only on a model name. Décor should not consume so much of the base that the fish loses the footprint on which the recommendation depends.

Check the complete adult plan

Work through length, footprint, volume and stocking as separate decisions. A 100 cm aquarium passes the recorded minimum-length check, but a pair still needs the 120 × 30 cm base or equivalent. The OATA volume figure then supplies a broader planning threshold for a fish whose recorded adult length is over 15 cm.

For example, do not treat a deep but short aquarium as interchangeable with a longer aquarium solely because both hold the same number of litres. The stated length and pair footprint concern usable horizontal space, while the volume guidance helps plan environmental stability and the waste load. Check all applicable measurements before deciding that an aquarium is suitable.

Reassess stocking when the fish approaches its adult size. The aquarium must still accommodate every companion at its own adult dimensions, with enough filtration to process the combined feeding and waste. If adding the acara would cause any length, volume, water-value or compatibility check to fail, choose a different stocking plan rather than relying on its smaller dispatch measurement.

Build a layout that tolerates digging

Use soft sand or fine aquarium gravel. Seriously Fish recommends a soft, sandy substrate, while OATA notes that American cichlids may dig or sift the surface when feeding or breeding. Avoid designing a layout whose success depends on the substrate remaining perfectly level.

Add driftwood branches and leave enough clear base for the fish to move and feed. Floating plants can provide shade. Rooted plants are less dependable because this fish is described as an avid digger, so species attached to décor, including Anubias and Java fern, have a better chance of remaining in place.

Divide the base by purpose

Inspect the layout during routine maintenance. If digging exposes a plant root or shifts loose material into the filter intake, restore a safe arrangement without removing all established surfaces at the same time. The aim is a functional cichlid aquarium that can tolerate repeated investigation of the bottom.

Do not rely on planting to compensate for inadequate space. The aquarium still needs at least 100 cm of length, and a pair still needs the larger base. Décor, plants and open substrate must all fit inside that adult plan.

Keep water inside the shared range

Maintain 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH. The temperature and pH sit inside the FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA ranges, while the hardness range is shared by Seriously Fish and OATA. Set and test these values before introducing the fish.

Keep ammonia at zero mg per litre and nitrite at zero mg per litre. Nitrate should not exceed 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. These OATA targets give direct thresholds for deciding whether the aquarium is ready and whether maintenance is keeping pace with feeding and waste.

Use each result to make a decision

Our water chemistry guide explains what the main aquarium tests measure. Enter the actual results into the water matcher to compare the aquarium with the stated ranges rather than choosing fish from tap-water assumptions.

Check consistency before choosing the fish

Take measurements from the aquarium the acara will enter, not from tap water alone. Temperature, pH and hardness must describe the maintained aquarium after heating, conditioning and normal operation. Record more than one set of results when the aquarium is newly established so that a single reading does not hide a developing problem.

A reading of 22°C, pH 7.2 and 8 dGH passes the routine range check, provided ammonia and nitrite are both zero and nitrate remains within the stated limit. A reading of 24°C fails the selected routine-temperature range even though the pH and hardness may fit. Correct the failed value and retest rather than averaging several measurements into one overall judgement.

Apply the same check to every proposed companion. Sharing an acceptable pH does not make two fish compatible when their temperature or hardness requirements conflict. Water compatibility is one part of the decision; adult size, aquarium space and behaviour still need their own checks.

Protect the biological filter and water quality

Run a well-set-up and maintained biological filter at all times. The RSPCA explains that fish release toxic ammonia, which filter bacteria convert first to toxic nitrite and then to safer nitrate. Seriously Fish also describes the Blue Acara as sensitive to deteriorating water quality and calls for efficient biological filtration with a stringent maintenance regime.

At least once every week, carry out a 25% partial water change. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from accessible substrate, and treat replacement tap water with conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium.

Test ammonia and nitrite at least once per week, alongside the temperature, pH, hardness and nitrate checks needed to keep this aquarium inside its working ranges. Testing also belongs at the start of any investigation into altered breathing, swimming, colour, feeding or behaviour.

Clean the filter without sacrificing its bacteria

1. Check the filter for blockages and reduced flow during the weekly routine.
2. If cleaning is needed, remove aquarium water during the partial water change.
3. Rinse the filter media lightly in that removed aquarium water.
4. Do not run it under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacterial population.
5. Return the filter to operation and confirm that water is moving through it normally.

Increase the aquarium’s fish population slowly. OATA warns that adding livestock and food faster than the beneficial bacteria can respond may cause new tank syndrome, allowing ammonia and nitrite to rise to harmful levels.

Respond to failed tests in the right order

If ammonia or nitrite rises above zero, stop increasing livestock and feeding pressure. Check that the filter is running, inspect it for a blockage and test again after addressing the cause. A clear-looking aquarium can still contain toxic dissolved waste, so appearance never replaces a measured result.

Use the weekly 25% change as the routine baseline, then judge whether feeding and stocking are allowing nitrate to stay within the OATA limit. Repeatedly rising nitrate indicates that waste production is outpacing the maintenance routine. Review portion size and the total fish load rather than cleaning biological media aggressively, because damaging the bacterial population can worsen ammonia and nitrite control.

When behaviour changes, test first even if the filter appears to be operating. Hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom, erratic swimming, altered breathing, reduced feeding or unusual hiding can accompany a water-quality problem. A prompt set of results separates an environmental failure from a compatibility issue and gives you a concrete next action.

Feed for a mainly carnivorous diet

Use a quality dried product as the staple and add suitable meaty variety. Seriously Fish describes this cichlid as mainly carnivorous and names bloodworm, brine shrimp, chopped mussel or prawn and earthworms. FishBase records worms, crustaceans and insects in the wild diet, so those animal-based foods fit the species’ feeding biology.

Feed only what the fish can eat within a few minutes, once a day. This timing and portion rule comes from OATA’s American-cichlid guidance. Remove the incentive to add more simply because the fish continues to approach the feeding area.

Build a simple rotation

Watch the whole portion disappear within a few minutes. Uneaten food and excess faeces increase the waste that the biological filter must process, and OATA warns that overfeeding can release toxic waste into the water. If food remains, reduce the next portion rather than relying on the filter to absorb repeated excess.

In a community, confirm that the acara actually takes its share and that companions are not excluded. Feeding observation is also a useful opportunity to notice reduced appetite, altered body condition or a change in normal behaviour.

Adjust the portion from what you observe

Begin with a measured amount that the fish can finish within a few minutes. If food remains on the substrate after that period, the portion was too large; remove the excess and reduce the next feed. If companions take everything before the acara can feed, change how the allowed portion is distributed rather than adding an uncontrolled second quantity.

Rotate the named foods to provide variety without making every meal rich or oversized. A quality dried product remains the regular staple, while bloodworm, brine shrimp, chopped mussel, prawn or earthworms supply suitable meaty alternatives. Cut larger items into pieces the fish can take and confirm that none remains hidden among wood or substrate.

Treat a reduced appetite as an observation prompt, not a reason to keep adding different foods. Check ammonia, nitrite, temperature and interactions with companions. The weekly records and feeding observations together show whether the change follows deteriorating water quality, restricted feeding access or a broader change in the fish’s condition.

Prepare the aquarium before arrival

Have the aquarium established, heated, filtered and tested before the fish arrives. Ammonia and nitrite must both read zero, and the aquarium should already be within 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH. If this is your first setup, follow our first tropical aquarium guide before adding livestock.

Review the adult plan before the parcel is due. Confirm at least 100 cm of aquarium length, the applicable volume and pair footprint, and companions too large to swallow. Check that the filter is operating normally and that the substrate, wood and attached plants are arranged without removing the required open base.

Follow the arrival procedure in this order

1. Be present to receive the parcel because live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, with the outer box visible.
3. Open it the same day in one continuous take and show the fish while it is still inside the sealed bag.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Keep the unboxing video and order number. The complete conditions are in the delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy.

After release, compare swimming, breathing and body condition with the health indicators below. Any investigation should begin with water tests and a check that the biological filter is working.

Complete a final readiness check

• Confirm that the aquarium temperature remains within 22–23°C.
• Retest ammonia and nitrite and require zero mg per litre for both.
• Check that pH remains within 6.5–8.0 and hardness within 5–12 dGH.
• Verify that the filter is running normally and is not blocked.
• Confirm that every companion remains too large for the adult acara to swallow.
• Place the phone or camera ready so filming begins before the sealed parcel is opened.

Do these checks before receiving the parcel rather than while the bag is floating. The arrival procedure then remains simple: record the sealed parcel and continuous opening, show the fish inside the sealed bag, float the bag for 20–30 minutes and release without adding bag water to the aquarium.

Use a weekly care rhythm

Build routine care around feeding observation, weekly testing and a weekly partial water change. The purpose is to identify a change while the fish still has clear eyes, intact scales and fins, an appropriate swimming pattern and a normal interest in food.

At each feeding

• Offer only what can be eaten within a few minutes.
• Check that the fish reaches food and maintains normal body condition.
• Watch for hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming.
• Notice darker or paler colour, increased hiding or a change in aggression.
• Check whether the gill covers are moving faster or slower than normal.

At least once every week

• Test ammonia and nitrite and confirm both remain at zero mg per litre.
• Check nitrate against the limit of 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.
• Confirm 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH.
• Carry out a 25% partial water change with conditioned replacement water.
• Inspect the filter for blockages and rinse media only when needed, using removed aquarium water.

White spots, fluffy growths, lost scales, damaged fins, ulcers, bumps, weight change or a reduced appetite all require prompt attention. Test the water first and inspect filtration, feeding access and interactions with companions. If the change continues after those checks, contact us for guidance.

Record repeated test results if that helps you spot a trend. A single acceptable result should not replace the weekly routine, especially in an aquarium holding a well-fed medium-sized cichlid.

Screen every companion before mixing

Choose companions that are too large for the Electric Blue Acara to swallow. Seriously Fish describes it as peaceful for a cichlid of this size and names medium-sized characins, Corydoras, loricariids and, in a big enough aquarium, other relatively peaceful cichlids as good tank-mate categories.

Avoid fish small enough to swallow. This is an adult-size decision, so judge the eventual size of both animals rather than relying only on their dispatch measurements. All companions must also fit the acara’s 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH routine.

These are screening categories rather than universal promises. American cichlids vary in temperament, and FishBase records that both Blue Acara parents guard eggs and larvae. A combination that passes the species-name check still requires enough aquarium space and direct observation.

Intervene when behaviour affects welfare

Watch for a fish being denied food, hiding more than normal, showing damaged fins or scales, changing colour or swimming abnormally. Those signs trigger water tests and a reassessment of the stocking plan rather than an assumption that all fish named in a compatible category will always coexist.

Apply every screen before combining fish

1. Compare the companion’s adult size with the acara’s ability to swallow it.
2. Require a shared temperature range that includes 22–23°C.
3. Require a shared pH range that includes 6.5–8.0 and a shared hardness range that includes 5–12 dGH.
4. Confirm that the aquarium meets the acara’s adult space requirement after every fish is counted at adult size.
5. For another relatively peaceful cichlid, use a big enough aquarium and plan for direct observation of interactions.

A medium-sized characin, Corydoras or loricariid passes only when all of those checks succeed. A named category does not override a size mismatch, unsuitable water or inadequate aquarium space. Fish small enough to swallow remain an unconditional avoid.

After introduction, use feeding and routine observation to test the plan in practice. A companion that cannot reach food, hides more than normal or develops damaged fins or scales is not coping successfully. Test the water as well, because altered behaviour can coincide with an environmental problem rather than arising from interaction alone.

Plan pairs with extra care

Keep a compatible pair only when the aquarium provides the required footprint and the two fish coexist without persistent welfare problems. FishBase records aquarium keeping in pairs, and Seriously Fish says a 120 × 30 cm base or equivalent is just about sufficient for a pair.

Two individually selected fish are not automatically a compatible pair. Build the aquarium plan around the animals’ observed behaviour rather than the hope that two fish will bond. The broader OATA guidance also allows single-fish planning for most American cichlids, so pairing is not required for every aquarium.

Recognise the breeding-related change

FishBase records that both parents guard eggs and larvae. Seriously Fish describes the species as a substrate-spawning cichlid and notes that a pair cleans a spawning site within its territory. A pair that reaches this stage needs close observation because defence of the site introduces a different compatibility pressure from ordinary community swimming.

• Recheck feeding access for every fish when a pair begins guarding an area.
• Look for abnormal hiding, fin damage, lost scales or changed swimming.
• Test the water whenever behaviour or appetite changes, even when conflict appears to be the obvious cause.
• Do not treat a larger aquarium as a guarantee that every pair or cichlid combination will work.

For a single acara, apply the same adult-size and water screening to every companion. For a pair, add the 120 × 30 cm base requirement and the need to manage parental guarding without moving prohibited companions into a caution category.

Answer the main buyer questions

How big does an Electric Blue Acara get?

The Electric Blue Acara reaches 16 cm total length according to FishBase. Plan every dispatch size around that adult figure.

What size aquarium does an Electric Blue Acara need?

Use at least 100 cm of aquarium length, the FishBase minimum. Seriously Fish says 120 × 30 cm or equivalent is just about sufficient for a pair, while OATA’s American-cichlid guidance uses at least 300 litres for fish over 15 cm.

How many Electric Blue Acaras should I keep?

FishBase records pair keeping, while OATA says most American cichlids do better singly or in pairs. Keep two only as a compatible pair with the required 120 × 30 cm base or equivalent.

Is the Electric Blue Acara suitable for beginners?

Yes. Seriously Fish describes it as a beginner’s cichlid, provided the keeper supplies at least 100 cm of aquarium length, efficient biological filtration and the stated maintenance routine.

What does it eat?

Feed a quality dried product with meaty variety such as bloodworm, brine shrimp, chopped mussel or prawn and earthworms. OATA’s American-cichlid guidance says to feed only what it can eat within a few minutes, once a day.

What temperature, pH and hardness does this fish need?

Keep it at 22–23°C and pH 6.5–8.0, the FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA overlap. Use 5–12 dGH, the overlap of Seriously Fish and OATA.

Is it aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Seriously Fish describes it as peaceful for a cichlid of this size. Both parents guard eggs and larvae, so monitor feeding, hiding, swimming and fin condition when a pair occupies a breeding site.

What fish can it live with?

Consider medium-sized characins, Corydoras, loricariids and, in a big enough aquarium, other relatively peaceful cichlids. Avoid fish small enough to swallow, and screen every companion for 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH.

How should I handle the Electric Blue Acara when it arrives?

Start filming the sealed parcel before opening it, continue through opening and show the fish in the sealed bag before floating it. Be present to receive the parcel, float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release and do not pour bag water into the aquarium.

Read the public references

• FishBase: Andinoacara pulcher — identity, distribution, adult length, recorded environment, wild diet and parental care.
• Seriously Fish: Andinoacara pulcher — aquarium dimensions, water conditions, diet, layout and compatibility.
• OATA: How to look after American cichlids — group water, volume, feeding and maintenance guidance.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance — biological filtration and the aquarium nitrogen cycle.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy — packing, unboxing evidence and acclimatisation procedure.