Blue Acara (Aequidens pulcher latifrons)

Choose a Blue Acara for the right aquarium

The Blue Acara (Aequidens pulcher latifrons) is a freshwater cichlid from Trinidad and Venezuela. FishBase records the Blue Acara in the family Cichlidae and gives a maximum length of 16 cm. It suits a beginner who wants a characterful cichlid and is prepared to provide a mature biological filter, a suitable aquarium footprint and consistent maintenance.

FishBase now lists it as Andinoacara pulcher. Adults occur in both turbid standing water and clear, free-flowing streams, where they feed on worms, crustaceans and insects. This feeding biology, rather than colour or size at dispatch, determines the meaty aquarium diet described below.

Make the three main decisions first

• Space: plan for the 16 cm adult and a pair. Seriously Fish describes a 120 × 30 cm base, or equivalent, as just about sufficient for a pair.
• Water: keep the routine aquarium at 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH. These figures are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA. OATA’s contribution is broad American-cichlid guidance, not a species-specific optimum.
• Community: combine it only with animals too large to swallow, then screen every proposed companion for temperament, water needs and space.

Explore the South American cichlid collection only after comparing each fish’s adult space, water and compatibility requirements.

Select the dispatch size separately from adult size

One purchase supplies one Blue Acara of the selected size. Use the live size selector to choose 3–4 cm, 4–5 cm, 5–6 cm, 7–9 cm or XL. The numeric labels describe the fish’s dispatch length; XL is a named grade without a stated centimetre range.

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Every choice therefore needs an aquarium planned around the same 16 cm adult length. Do not use a smaller dispatch grade as the basis for a smaller permanent aquarium or a more crowded stocking plan.

Read the offer literally

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Blue Acara listing has no sex-guaranteed option. Plan the aquarium without assuming sex from colour, finnage, body shape, an image or the selected dispatch size.

Some gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. They show the listed type of animal rather than guaranteeing the exact markings of the individual supplied, so natural colour and pattern can vary. Use the gallery to understand the illustrated body shape and markings, not to predict the exact colour, sex or individual appearance of the fish supplied.

Reserve the adult footprint before purchase

Plan for a pair in an aquarium with base measurements of at least 120 × 30 cm or an equivalent footprint. Seriously Fish describes that base as just about sufficient for a pair, so treat it as the starting point rather than spare capacity for an automatic community. A longer or wider aquarium gives more room to arrange separate areas and to assess companions without assuming that water volume alone resolves cichlid behaviour.

FishBase records aquarium keeping in pairs. This is a pair-planning instruction, not a general rule that every combination of two unfamiliar fish will immediately behave as an established pair. Observe interactions and be ready to separate fish if persistent aggression develops.

Check the footprint, not only the litre label

• Measure the usable base length and width before selecting the aquarium.
• Allow for driftwood, attached plants and filtration equipment without losing the whole open base area.
• Plan around the adult fish from the beginning rather than treating the dispatch length as a temporary stocking allowance.
• For a community, assess the adult dimensions and behaviour of every other animal before deciding that the aquarium is large enough.

A litre figure can describe aquariums with very different shapes. The stated 120 × 30 cm base is therefore the decisive species-level space reference for a pair. If an aquarium is tall but has a shorter or narrower base, the extra height does not make its footprint equivalent.

This fish digs, so the usable plan must also tolerate movement of the substrate and disturbance around rooted plants. A soft sandy base, driftwood and plants attached to décor create a layout that works with that behaviour instead of relying on delicate planting remaining untouched.

Hold the water inside the overlapping range

Keep routine aquarium water at 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH. This is the overlap of FishBase’s recorded wild environment, Seriously Fish aquarium guidance and OATA’s American-cichlid range. FishBase records 18–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and hardness up to 25 dGH; Seriously Fish gives 22–28°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–25 dGH; OATA gives 22–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 4–12 dGH.

The overlap is deliberately narrower than any one of those ranges. For example, 24°C sits within the Seriously Fish and OATA temperature ranges but outside FishBase’s recorded 18–23°C environment, so it is not part of the three-way overlap used here. A reading of 10 dGH sits within both the Seriously Fish and OATA hardness ranges and therefore fits the routine target.

Test the values that affect daily welfare

• Ammonia: keep at zero mg per litre.
• Nitrite: keep at zero mg per litre.
• Nitrate: keep it from exceeding 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.
• Temperature: check that the aquarium remains within 22–23°C rather than relying only on a heater setting.
• pH and hardness: compare measured water with the stated range before adding the fish.

Use our water chemistry guide to understand what each test measures, then enter the readings in the water matcher to compare them with the target. Record the actual numbers rather than describing water only as soft, hard, acidic or alkaline.

Stability still matters within the range. Test replacement water as well as the aquarium when the tap-water chemistry changes or a reading begins to move. Never use the upper limit of one source to widen another source’s boundary; the working range above keeps every routine value inside all three named references.

Build for digging, shade and biological filtration

Use a soft sandy substrate with driftwood branches and an efficient biological filter. Seriously Fish recommends this arrangement and notes that Blue Acaras are avid diggers and can be sensitive to deteriorating water quality. The layout should therefore tolerate substrate movement while leaving the filter able to circulate and process waste effectively.

Choose plants that fit the fish’s behaviour

Floating plants can provide shade. Rooted plants are more likely to be disturbed, so do not make the success of the aquarium depend on an extensive rooted display. Anubias and Java fern attached to wood or other décor have a better chance of remaining in place because their position does not depend on undisturbed substrate.

The RSPCA explains that fish release toxic ammonia and that a working biological filter supports bacteria which convert ammonia to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate. The filter must be established and maintained; simply placing a filter in the aquarium on the day the fish arrives does not create a mature bacterial population.

Position décor so it does not block routine observation of the fish or access for waste removal. Leave enough usable base area for a 16 cm adult pair after the hardscape is installed. Check that branches and attached plants do not obstruct the filter intake or outlet, and inspect the filter for blockages during regular maintenance.

Mature the filter before adding the fish

Prepare and mature the biological filter before adding the Blue Acara. Follow the first tropical aquarium guide before livestock arrives, then confirm that ammonia and nitrite both read zero mg per litre. A clear-looking aquarium is not, by itself, a test of biological maturity.

OATA warns that adding fish too quickly can cause new tank syndrome. Every increase in fish numbers and feeding increases the waste that the filter’s bacterial population must process. Add livestock slowly, test after stocking changes and do not treat unused physical space as proof that the filter can immediately support more fish.

Use a simple readiness check

1. Set up the aquarium with its permanent substrate, décor and filter.
2. Mature the filter before the planned arrival.
3. Measure temperature, pH and hardness and compare them with 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH, the FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA overlap.
4. Test ammonia and nitrite and proceed only when both are zero mg per litre.
5. Confirm that the adult footprint remains suitable after décor and equipment are installed.
6. Add fish numbers slowly so the bacterial population can adjust to increased waste and feeding.

Do not compensate for an immature filter by feeding heavily or adding several planned companions together. Overfeeding produces excess faeces and uneaten food, while rapid stocking can exceed the filter’s present capacity. The correct sequence is to establish the aquarium, confirm the readings, add livestock gradually and continue testing.

When planning a pair, remember that filtration capacity and behavioural space are separate decisions. Zero ammonia and nitrite do not make a cramped footprint suitable, while a large footprint does not replace a mature biological filter. Both conditions must be met.

Feed a meaty diet in controlled portions

Base the diet on meaty foods that match the Blue Acara’s recorded feeding biology. FishBase records wild adults eating worms, crustaceans and insects, while Seriously Fish describes the species as mainly carnivorous. Suitable aquarium foods include bloodworm, brine shrimp, chopped mussel or prawn, earthworms and a quality dried food.

Offer only what the fish can finish within a few minutes, once a day. That portion and frequency come from OATA’s American-cichlid guidance. The group sheet also recommends variety and warns that these fish can consume a large amount in one sitting, so appetite should not be used as permission to keep adding food.

Build variety around the recorded diet

Watch the feeding response from start to finish. If food remains after a few minutes, reduce the next portion and remove waste during maintenance. Uneaten food and excess faeces break down and release toxic waste into the water, placing an avoidable load on the biological filter.

Use body condition, interest in food and the time taken to finish the portion as practical checks. A sudden reduction in food intake belongs with the other health changes described below and should trigger water testing. Continue to vary suitable meaty items rather than relying on a single treat food.

Feed for health and water quality, not to intensify the illustrated gallery colours. Colour response is not a feeding target established for this offer, while controlled portions and diet variety directly support the care decisions described by the species and group guidance.

Protect water quality with weekly maintenance

At least once every week, change 25% of the aquarium water. OATA strongly recommends this frequency and amount for American cichlids. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate, especially where food or faeces collect around driftwood and other décor.

Test ammonia and nitrite at least once per week and keep both at zero mg per litre. Check nitrate against the target of no more than 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. A weekly result creates a useful comparison with the fish’s behaviour, appetite and appearance.

Prepare replacement water safely

• Treat replacement tap water with a conditioner that removes harmful chlorine or chloramine before adding it to the aquarium.
• Check that the replacement water will keep the aquarium within the planned temperature and chemistry range.
• Remove solid waste during the partial change rather than allowing it to break down in the substrate.
• Inspect the filter for blockages while carrying out the routine.

Clean the filter without destroying its bacterial population

If filter media needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap. Rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. This reduces the number of beneficial bacteria lost while removing accumulated debris.

Do not turn a 25% weekly change into a rule that postpones action when tests or the fish indicate a problem. The weekly routine is the baseline. If ammonia or nitrite appears, stop adding livestock, test the aquarium and assess feeding, filter operation and accumulated waste before proceeding with the stocking plan.

Keep the filter running effectively between maintenance sessions. A Blue Acara can be sensitive to declining water quality, so combine regular testing, controlled feeding, waste removal and filter checks rather than relying on any single task to maintain the aquarium.

Follow the arrival steps in the right order

Receive the parcel in person and begin filming while it is still sealed. Continue in one take through opening the parcel and showing the fish inside the sealed bag. This creates the continuous unboxing record required for a Live Arrival Guarantee claim while allowing the fish’s condition to be seen before anything is disturbed.

Use the store procedure

1. Receive the parcel so the live fish is not left unattended.
2. Start filming before opening it, with the sealed parcel and outer box visible.
3. Continue filming while opening the parcel and show the fish inside the sealed bag.
4. Open and inspect the parcel on the day it arrives.
5. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish, and do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

The fish is hand-bagged in pure oxygen and placed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel. Read the current delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy before the planned arrival.

Send us the order number and continuous unboxing video on the same day if anything has gone wrong. The video should show the sealed parcel, its opening and the fish still inside the sealed bag.

Confirm aquarium readiness separately

Before release, the aquarium should already be mature and within the planned water range. OATA advises checking that ammonia and nitrite are zero before adding fish and increasing livestock numbers slowly so the biological filter can adjust. These water checks belong to aquarium preparation rather than the numbered parcel procedure.

After release, keep the stocking plan conservative. Do not add several other fish simply because the Blue Acara has entered the aquarium successfully; continue testing and allow the filter’s bacterial population to respond to the increased waste and feeding.

Respond early to health and behaviour changes

Observe swimming, breathing, colour, appetite, body condition, fins and scales every day. OATA identifies changes in these areas as useful early signs that a fish or its environment needs attention. The value lies in noticing a departure from the animal’s normal pattern rather than waiting for several signs to appear together.

Match each observation with an action

Clear, bright eyes, intact scales and undamaged fins provide a useful baseline for routine observation. Record any sudden change alongside the latest temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings. This makes it easier to distinguish a water-quality event from a compatibility problem that appears during interactions.

Do not respond to reduced appetite by adding larger portions. Remove uneaten food, check the water and keep the once-daily portion within what can be eaten in a few minutes. Extra food increases waste at the point when the aquarium may already be under strain.

Behaviour also matters in a pair or community. A change in hiding or aggression should trigger a review of the usable footprint, visual structure and companions, while damaged fins require both a water-quality check and close observation of interactions.

Plan growth around the 16 cm adult

Plan the aquarium around a 16 cm adult. FishBase records that maximum as total length. Seriously Fish lists 15 cm standard length, so the two references contain a real size difference; the 16 cm FishBase figure is the adult length used throughout the care plan.

Growth does not change the permanent requirements attached to the selected dispatch grade. The aquarium footprint, mature filtration and compatibility plan should be ready from the beginning. A smaller fish still contributes waste, grows towards the adult planning length and may be paired or combined only after the same compatibility assessment.

Expect the layout to change through digging

Blue Acaras are avid diggers. Check that substrate movement has not exposed unstable décor, buried attached plants, blocked a filter intake or created pockets where waste accumulates. Use sand, driftwood and plants fixed to décor so routine digging does not undermine the whole design.

Expect active parental defence from a breeding pair

FishBase records both parents guarding eggs and larvae. Seriously Fish advises removing other fish after a pair forms unless the aquarium is very large. This behaviour matters to community planning even when breeding is not the keeper’s aim, because a pair defending a site can change how much space remains usable by other fish.

Do not build the care plan around visual assumptions about male or female fish. The offer does not guarantee sex, and the correct decisions—adult space, water, feeding, filtration and companion screening—apply without assigning a sex from appearance.

Keep a pair with room for cichlid behaviour

Plan to keep the Blue Acara in a pair. FishBase records aquarium keeping in pairs, and Seriously Fish bases its space guidance on a pair. Use at least a 120 × 30 cm base or an equivalent footprint, then increase the space assessment when other fish are considered.

Peaceful for a cichlid of this size does not mean that every community combination is suitable. A pair may guard eggs and larvae, and Seriously Fish advises removing other fish after a pair forms unless the aquarium is very large. Treat pair behaviour, usable territory and companion escape space as part of the stocking decision.

Use conditional companion choices

Avoid animals small enough to swallow. This condition comes directly from the species profile, which limits combinations to other species too large to be swallowed. Do not move small fish or invertebrates into the caution category after screening; if they are small enough to swallow, they remain an avoid.

No named companion is universal. The table identifies kinds of fish described by Seriously Fish, but every proposed combination still depends on adult dimensions, water compatibility, the aquarium footprint and observed behaviour.

Screen every community before mixing fish

Assess every community before adding the Blue Acara or a new companion. OATA warns that mixing American cichlids can be difficult, while Seriously Fish describes this species as peaceful for a cichlid and names conditional companion groups. Those statements support careful screening, not a universal tank-mate list.

Use four screening questions

For other cichlids, use only relatively peaceful species and a sufficiently large aquarium. Do not treat another fish’s ability to fight back as the main compatibility test. The supported Blue Acara guidance favours peaceful companions that cannot be swallowed.

Treat fin safety as part of the individual assessment. Inspect fins during daily observation and watch for changes in hiding, aggression or swimming. If persistent aggression or fin damage appears, separate the affected fish rather than assuming the combination will settle without intervention.

Ask for one stocking and compatibility assessment before committing to a mixed cichlid plan. Provide the aquarium’s base dimensions, current livestock, adult sizes and measured water values so the proposed combination can be assessed against the same space and water decisions used here.

Answer common Blue Acara questions

How big does a Blue Acara get?

A Blue Acara reaches 16 cm. Plan the permanent aquarium around this FishBase maximum adult length rather than the selected dispatch size.

What size aquarium does a Blue Acara need?

A pair needs a base of at least 120 × 30 cm or an equivalent footprint. Seriously Fish describes that base as just about sufficient for a pair, so add space when considering companions.

How many should I keep together?

Keep this fish in a pair. FishBase records aquarium keeping in pairs, while compatibility between individual fish still needs observation.

Is Blue Acara suitable for beginners?

Yes. Seriously Fish calls the Blue Acara a beginner’s cichlid, but it still needs a mature biological filter, weekly maintenance and a pair-sized aquarium footprint.

What does Blue Acara eat?

Feed meaty foods such as bloodworm, brine shrimp, chopped mussel or prawn, earthworms and a quality dried product. OATA’s American-cichlid guidance says to feed only what it can finish within a few minutes, once a day.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 22–23°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH. These values are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA guidance.

Is Blue Acara aggressive or does it nip fins?

The Blue Acara is peaceful for a cichlid of this size, but American-cichlid mixes can be difficult and a pair may guard eggs and larvae. Treat fin safety as an individual compatibility check and separate fish if persistent aggression or damage appears.

What kinds of fish can it live with?

This fish can be considered with medium-sized characins, Corydoras, Loricariids and, in a big enough aquarium, other relatively peaceful cichlids. Every companion must be too large to swallow and suited to the same water.

How is this fish packed and acclimatised?

Start filming before opening the sealed parcel and continue through opening it and showing the fish inside the sealed bag. It is hand-bagged in pure oxygen in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when needed; receive it in person, inspect it the same day, float the bag for 20–30 minutes and do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Consult the care and welfare references

• FishBase: Blue Acara — accepted identity, distribution, recorded environment, diet, pair keeping and maximum length.
• Seriously Fish: Andinoacara pulcher — aquarium footprint, water, furnishing, feeding and conditional companions.
• OATA: American cichlids — group water, feeding, introduction, maintenance and health guidance.
• RSPCA: Aquarium environment — biological filtration and aquarium waste processing.