Gold Red Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlid (Apistogramma agassizii)

Choose an intermediate dwarf cichlid for a structured aquarium

The Gold Red Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlid is a colour form of Apistogramma agassizii, a small freshwater member of the cichlid family. FishBase identifies the species as Agassiz’s dwarf cichlid and places its natural distribution across the Amazon River basin, from Peru through Brazil to the Capim River basin. Adults occur in clear, black and white water and use the lower part of their environment, so aquarium planning should start with floor space, shelter and stable water rather than an open display.

This is a fish for a keeper who enjoys watching local territory use, cave inspection and deliberate feeding near the substrate. It is not simply a small version of a large community cichlid. Cover must divide the base into usable areas, while companions must leave it room to retreat and feed. Territorial behaviour becomes particularly important around spawning sites, even when the fish appears calm at other times.

Decide whether the care style suits you

We class this fish as intermediate because its care depends on controlled water chemistry, a mature biological filter and active management of cave territories. A keeper prepared to test water weekly, maintain a consistent routine and rearrange stocking if aggression develops has the right foundation. If you are still selecting a compatible aquarium theme, you can also browse our South American cichlids.

The gallery illustrations show the characteristic gold-orange head, dark lateral marking, blue details and red-orange tail used to represent this colour form. The gallery images are representative, based on reference photographs of this species, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Check the size, water and offer before choosing

One purchase supplies one animal in the size chosen. Use the live size selector to choose between the labels 3-4 cm and 4-5 cm. These are dispatch sizes rather than promises of final length. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size.

Adult-length references differ, so use the larger planning figure when deciding whether the aquarium will remain suitable. FishBase records a maximum of 4.4 cm standard length for male or unsexed fish. The Seriously Fish aquarium account gives planning lengths of 7.5 cm standard length for males and 5 cm for females. Build the permanent layout around the 7.5 cm planning figure rather than treating a dispatch grade as the adult size.

Seriously Fish recommends a base of 60 cm by 30 cm or more, approximately 54 litres, for a single pair and says a group needs larger quarters. OATA’s dwarf-cichlid sheet recommends at least 60 litres for a pair and at least 80 litres when dwarf cichlids are mixed with other fish. For a practical UK setup, start with at least 60 litres and a 60 cm by 30 cm base for a pair, then choose at least 80 litres for a community and increase space further for a group.

Use the routine water target

FishBase records 26–29°C, pH 5.0–7.0 and 0–12 dH for the natural environment. Seriously Fish gives 22–29°C and 0–10 dGH for aquarium maintenance, while its pH figure of 3.0–4.0 is associated particularly with some wild populations and breeding. OATA’s dwarf-cichlid sheet gives 22–27°C, pH 6.0–8.0 and 4–12 dGH for the group; these are not a species-specific optimum. Keeping those figures within the applicable species ranges gives a practical routine target of 22–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–12 dGH.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Gold Red Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Build separate cave territories across the aquarium base

Start with a soft, sandy substrate and arrange the aquarium from the bottom upwards. Wood roots and branches should create shaded passages rather than one exposed floor. Add several caves with entrances facing different directions, then use plants, wood or leaf piles to provide cover between them. This structure gives a retreating fish somewhere to go instead of leaving it exposed to a territorial neighbour.

Seriously Fish recommends natural arrangements based on sand, roots, branches, shade and caves. Ceramic flowerpots, suitable lengths of plastic pipe and other aquarium-safe artificial shelters can also work. The fish needs the function of a cave and enough surrounding cover more than a particular decorative style. Check every opening for a smooth edge and make sure the structure cannot shift when the substrate is disturbed.

Divide the base into usable zones

1. Place the first cave near cover. A root, plant group or branch in front of the entrance reduces exposure without blocking access.
2. Put another cave in a separately covered area. Spread shelters across the base so each fish has somewhere to retreat.
3. Keep an open feeding patch. Leave a small area of sand where food can be seen and removed, but keep a retreat within a short swim.
4. Check the lower flow. Leaves and light food should not be driven forcefully across the base.

Dried beech, oak or Ketapang almond leaves can be added as leaf litter. As they decompose, they encourage microbial growth that may become a secondary food source for fry and release tannins appreciated by many populations. Leaves may remain until they break down or be removed and replaced every few weeks. Add them gradually so you can observe their effect on the aquarium and keep access to the substrate for cleaning.

Live plants are useful cover, but artificial plants and suitable ornaments can perform the same sheltering role. Prioritise the number and placement of retreats over a densely decorated surface with no accessible caves. Once the layout is complete, check that each part of the base includes accessible shelter before introducing the fish.

Hold stable water values inside the routine range

Set the aquarium to 22–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–12 dGH for routine care. Measure your tap water and aquarium before choosing a target within those ranges. A stable value that suits the fish and its companions is more useful than repeatedly changing chemistry in pursuit of a single number.

Use our water chemistry guide to identify the tests you need, then enter measured values in the water matcher when comparing the aquarium with this care range. Test the water used for changes as well as the aquarium when you are adjusting hardness or pH. That comparison helps you anticipate movement instead of reacting after the fish has already experienced it.

Measure the values that affect daily welfare

OATA also gives 3–10 dKH as the carbonate-hardness guide for dwarf cichlids. Carbonate hardness influences how resistant pH is to change, so include it when unexplained pH movement occurs. Make adjustments through prepared replacement water and re-test before it enters the aquarium. Do not make a sudden large chemistry change while fish remain in the tank.

If ammonia or nitrite appears, reduce feeding, test again and make a partial change with conditioned, temperature-matched water. Check whether the filter flow has fallen or whether new stocking and feeding have increased the waste load. A reading of zero is the target for both compounds; a small reading is a prompt for action rather than an acceptable routine value.

Record results with the date, water-change volume and any change in feeding or behaviour. A short sequence of readings shows whether the aquarium is stable and makes gradual drift easier to recognise than a single isolated test.

Mature the biological filter before adding the fish

Use a properly established biological filter in every aquarium holding this fish. The RSPCA explains that biological filtration supports bacteria that convert toxic ammonia to toxic nitrite and then to the safer nitrate. The aquarium is ready for livestock only when the filter can maintain ammonia and nitrite at zero under the expected waste load.

If this is your first aquarium, follow our first tropical tank guide before arranging delivery. Maturation is a biological process rather than a fixed number of days. Test results determine readiness: do not add the fish while ammonia or nitrite remains detectable.

Choose flow for the aquarium, not just the label

Seriously Fish describes gentle movement and gives a filter flow of approximately 110–160 litres per hour for an aquarium of about 54 litres. Treat that as a worked reference for that tank size. A larger aquarium needs filtration selected for its own volume and waste load, while the outlet still needs to leave calm areas around the caves and substrate.

• Check circulation at the base. The fish should be able to hold position and feed without fighting a continuous jet.
• Keep oxygenated circulation. Gentle lower flow does not mean stagnant water or an unfiltered aquarium.
• Watch the outlet after maintenance. A sudden increase can disturb territories, while a sudden decrease may indicate a blockage.
• Increase stocking slowly. Beneficial bacteria must adjust when more fish and more feeding increase the waste entering the filter.

Before introduction, run the heater and filter together and confirm that temperature remains within the chosen range across a normal day. Test ammonia and nitrite again after the layout is complete, especially if wood, leaves or other organic material has been added.

During routine cleaning, rinse filter media lightly in water removed from the aquarium, restore the filter promptly and confirm that normal flow returns. If flow declines between weekly checks, inspect the intake and accessible mechanical media rather than waiting for the aquarium to become visibly dirty.

Feed small carnivorous foods once daily

Apistogramma agassizii is primarily carnivorous and feeds mostly on benthic invertebrates in nature. Build its aquarium diet around small foods that reach the lower water without creating a large uneaten deposit. Seriously Fish recommends regular live and frozen foods such as Artemia, Daphnia and chironomid larvae, commonly sold as bloodworm. Most specimens may also learn to accept dried alternatives, with pellets generally preferred to flakes.

Offer one controlled meal each day, following OATA’s feeding schedule for dwarf cichlids. Give only what the fish can eat within a few minutes. The right portion depends on the food size and the response of the individual, so observe the first pieces before adding more. Stop when feeding slows rather than adding a predetermined large pinch.

Use response to adjust the meal

Rotate suitable foods instead of increasing quantity to improve variety. Artemia and Daphnia can alternate with bloodworm and a quality small pellet that the fish accepts. Freeze-dried bloodworm and freeze-dried Artemia are also named options. Match every item to the fish’s mouth and observe whether it can take the food cleanly.

Uneaten food breaks down and adds toxic waste to the water. This matters particularly in a compact aquarium where a generous meal can change the waste load quickly. Siphon visible remains during maintenance and review the portion whenever ammonia, nitrite or excess debris appears. Feeding more heavily is not a substitute for selecting a food the fish can find and consume.

Keep a weekly maintenance and health routine

Change 25% of the water at least once every week. Treat replacement tap water with conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium, and keep its temperature and chemistry close to the aquarium values. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from accessible areas of substrate without dismantling established cave territories at every change.

Test ammonia and nitrite at least weekly and maintain both at zero. Record nitrate alongside them and keep it within 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. Increase testing after adding livestock, after an unexpected feeding increase or whenever behaviour changes. The purpose is to catch a developing water-quality problem before appearance and appetite decline further.

Clean the filter without stripping its bacteria

Check the filter for blockages during the weekly routine. If media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in water removed from the aquarium rather than under the tap. Any chlorine or chloramine present may kill part of the beneficial bacterial population. Reassemble the filter promptly and confirm that its flow returns without creating a strong current over the caves.

Act on changes rather than waiting

• Swimming: test water if the fish hangs at the surface, sits unusually still on the bottom or swims erratically.
• Colour: compare an unexpected darker or paler appearance with recent water, lighting and social changes.
• Temperament: add or rearrange cover when aggression rises or hiding becomes persistent.
• Breathing: investigate gill covers moving much faster or slower than normal.
• Appearance: respond to white spots, fluffy growths, damaged fins, missing scales, ulcers or bumps.
• Condition: review food intake and social access if body weight appears to rise or fall.

Begin with a complete water test and a check of temperature, filter flow and recent stocking whenever health changes appear. Correct husbandry problems promptly and contact us for further guidance if abnormal breathing, feeding, swimming or visible lesions continue. Treatment should follow a diagnosis and the instructions for the exact product being used; do not add medication simply because a fish is hiding after a recent move.

Acclimatise slowly and use a prepared first-week plan

Finish the aquarium, confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite, and hold the selected temperature before the fish arrives. Make sure someone can receive the parcel so live fish are not left unattended. Keep the room calm, check that the filter is running normally and leave the planned cave entrances accessible.

Follow our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy when the parcel arrives. Float the closed bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish, and never pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Use the first day to reduce avoidable pressure

1. Confirm the aquarium temperature before opening the transport container.
2. Float the closed bag for 20–30 minutes.
3. Transfer the fish without adding transport water to the aquarium.
4. Allow immediate access to caves and shaded areas.
5. Observe breathing, balance and swimming without repeatedly disturbing the shelter.

A newly moved dwarf cichlid may use cover while assessing the aquarium. Judge progress through breathing, posture and controlled movement rather than trying to force it into the open. Keep companions from crowding the cave entrance and use the established daily feeding schedule when offering food.

Check progress through the first week

During the first month, avoid adding several new fish in quick succession. Each increase in livestock and feeding requires the biological filter to process more waste. Introduce further occupants slowly, test after each change and keep the original cave arrangement stable unless territorial pressure calls for a redesign.

Manage cave-spawning behaviour before conflict develops

This species deposits eggs in a crevice or cavity, including on the ceiling of a cave. The female tends the eggs and fry after spawning. That behaviour makes cave placement a welfare decision as well as decoration: the selected site can become the centre of a strongly defended territory.

Seriously Fish notes that a female may become highly aggressive after spawning and that the male may need to be removed in a smaller aquarium. Prepare for that possibility before courtship begins. A spare established aquarium or a safe, filtered separation plan is more useful than trying to catch a pressured fish after every route has been blocked.

Read territorial signals in context

General sexual dimorphism can assist observation but must not be used as a guarantee for an individual offered here. Males are generally larger, more colourful and develop more extended fins than females. Colour, size and gallery appearance still do not replace an explicitly sexed option.

Do not create a breeding plan from temperature alone. Keep routine water within 22–27°C, maintain zero ammonia and nitrite, provide several caves and feed the normal varied diet without overfeeding. The strongest practical preparation is stable water and enough space to separate adults if care of a spawning site changes their behaviour.

When fry are present, OATA advises avoiding companions that may disturb the spawning site or predate the fry. Preserve the guarded area during maintenance, but continue testing and partial water changes. Parent care does not remove the need for clean, stable water.

Screen every companion for activity, territory and feeding conflict

Compatibility depends on the whole aquarium rather than a species name alone. Screen each proposed companion for where it feeds, how actively it swims, whether it uses caves and how it responds to territorial behaviour. A fish that is calm in open water may still be a poor match if it repeatedly enters the defended lower zone.

Seriously Fish recommends captive-raised examples for a general community aquarium. Wild examples are better maintained alone or with small dither fish such as Nannostomus, and ideally should not be mixed with other Apistogramma. Apply the cautious branch when background and individual behaviour are uncertain: use calm companions, provide plenty of cover and be ready to remove a fish that is persistently excluded.

Use these screening rules

OATA describes dwarf cichlids as suitable for communities when all fish retain enough space during breeding. It favours shoals of dither fish that can give cichlids a sense of security and move away from a defended territory, while warning that very active or boisterous companions may trouble shy Apistogramma. That is a behavioural screen, not a universal tank-mate list.

For a stocking assessment, ask us with the aquarium dimensions, measured water values, current occupants and intended number of dwarf cichlids. Those details allow a practical judgement about floor-space competition and water compatibility before another animal is introduced.

Scale the aquarium with the social and community plan

Plan the number of fish and the available territories together. FishBase describes aquarium keeping with several females for one male. Seriously Fish accepts a base of 60 cm by 30 cm or more for a single pair and requires larger quarters for a group. Treat the one-male arrangement as a future stocking design, not as the contents of one purchase.

For a pair, begin with at least 60 litres, a 60 cm by 30 cm base and several caves spread through well-covered areas. For a community, begin with at least 80 litres and increase space when companions also use the lower zone. A group requires more room than a pair, separate cave zones and enough cover for a chased fish to retreat.

Work through the stocking decision

• Measure the base. Volume alone can hide a tall aquarium with too little territorial floor space.
• Mark the caves. Each proposed territory needs shelter and a route away from neighbouring fish.
• Map feeding zones. Confirm that every fish can reach food without entering a guarded cave entrance.
• Allow for breeding behaviour. Space that appears unused may become a defended buffer around eggs or fry.
• Prepare separation. Know where a pressured fish can move before adding a group.

A 60-litre species-focused aquarium and an 80-litre community serve different purposes. The extra community volume supports greater environmental stability and gives other fish more room if the cichlid begins breeding. It does not make every companion suitable. A boisterous fish, cave competitor or fry predator can still fail the behavioural screen in a larger tank.

Observe the whole base after each stocking change. Occasional local chasing can form part of territorial communication when the other fish can retreat and resume normal feeding. Continuous pursuit, confinement to one corner, damaged fins or loss of feeding access requires intervention. Add cover where it creates genuinely separate sheltered areas; if pressure continues, reduce the stocking plan or separate the fish.

Answer the main care questions before choosing

What is the Gold Red Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlid?

It is a freshwater South American cichlid colour form identified as Apistogramma agassizii. FishBase places the species in Cichlidae and records it across the Amazon basin. It is a bottom-oriented, cave-using fish best planned around structure, calm flow and stable water.

How many fish does one purchase supply?

One purchase supplies one animal in the size chosen. Choose the dispatch grade through the live size selector and plan any pair or group as separate animals rather than assuming that one selection supplies two fish.

Which size options can I select for the Gold Red Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlid?

The live selector uses the labels 3-4 cm and 4-5 cm. These are dispatch sizes, not adult lengths. Plan the permanent aquarium around a male planning length of up to 7.5 cm standard length in the Seriously Fish account.

What aquarium setup does Apistogramma agassizii need?

Use a base of at least 60 cm by 30 cm with sand, several caves, wood, shaded areas and gentle filtration. Start with at least 60 litres for a pair and at least 80 litres for a community, increasing the space for a group.

Should this fish be kept alone, as a pair or in a group?

A single fish still needs a covered territory. A pair can use a base of 60 cm by 30 cm or more, while FishBase describes several females for one male and Seriously Fish requires larger quarters for a group. Monitor feeding access and prepare to separate fish if pursuit becomes persistent.

What water values suit the Gold Red Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlid?

For routine aquarium care, use 22–27°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–12 dGH. Maintain ammonia and nitrite at zero, test at least weekly and keep nitrate within 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.

What does it eat?

This fish is primarily carnivorous and feeds mostly on benthic invertebrates in nature. Offer small live or frozen Artemia, Daphnia or bloodworm regularly, alongside an accepted small pellet. Feed once daily and only what it can eat within a few minutes.

How should I acclimatise Apistogramma agassizii?

Start filming before opening the sealed parcel, keep the outer box visible and continue in one take until the fish can be seen inside the sealed bag. Float the closed bag for 20–30 minutes, then transfer the fish without pouring bag water into the aquarium.

Can this fish live in a community aquarium?

It may live in a calm, well-structured community with enough space, but compatibility is conditional. Use caution with very active or boisterous fish, avoid mixing other Apistogramma in ordinary community planning and exclude companions likely to disturb spawning sites or predate fry when breeding.

Check the care references used for planning

• FishBase — Apistogramma agassizii: accepted identity, family, Amazon-basin distribution, natural environmental values, recorded length, social arrangement and cave-spawning biology.
• Seriously Fish — Apistogramma agassizii: aquarium dimensions, planning lengths, water ranges, décor, feeding, compatibility, sexual dimorphism and parental behaviour.
• Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association — How to look after dwarf cichlids: group guidance for water quality, aquarium volume, feeding frequency, maintenance, introduction and community screening.
• RSPCA — Aquarium environment: the welfare role of established biological filtration and the conversion of ammonia through nitrite to nitrate.