Freshwater Butterflyfish (Pantodon buchholzi)

Meet a specialist surface hunter

The Freshwater Butterflyfish (Pantodon buchholzi) is a tropical freshwater fish in the family Pantodontidae. It comes from West and Central Africa, including Nigeria, Lake Chad, Cameroon, the Ogowe and Congo basins and the upper Zambezi River, and reaches a recorded maximum of 11.9 cm total length. It suits a keeper prepared to build the aquarium around a calm, covered surface zone rather than treating it as an ordinary community fish.

In nature it occupies calm water in swamps, creeks, backwaters and quieter parts of rivers. It stays at the surface, depends on breathing air and feeds on terrestrial insects, aquatic insect larvae and nymphs, crustaceans and fish. Its large pectoral fins contribute to the butterfly-like outline seen from above and help power the jumps used to catch food or escape predators. It is a ballistic jumper rather than a gliding fish, so a tightly fitting cover is a core welfare requirement.

For routine aquarium care, keep the temperature at 23–30°C, pH at 6.0–7.5 and hardness at 5–15 dGH. The temperature is the overlap of FishBase’s recorded environment and the Seriously Fish aquarium guidance; the pH and hardness ranges come from the same species-level aquarium guidance. Plan a base measuring at least 90 × 30 cm and approximately 81 litres, with width and usable surface area taking priority over extra depth.

This fish is generally quite peaceable, but it remains a surface predator. It will eat any fish it can fit in its mouth, is often aggressive towards other surface-dwelling species and has trailing fins that attract fin-nippers. Those traits make companion screening, surface feeding and observation more important than building a large mixed collection quickly.

Understand the animal you receive

One purchase supplies one Freshwater Butterflyfish. The dispatch grade is 5 cm, while the adult planning figure is 11.9 cm. Dispatch size describes the fish when sent and does not identify its sex or life stage; arrange the aquarium for its recorded adult size before it arrives.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Freshwater Butterflyfish listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Check the decisive requirements first

• Surface footprint: use a base of at least 90 × 30 cm, approximately 81 litres, and choose additional surface area when planning a group.
• Secure cover: use a tightly fitting lid because this species can jump powerfully from the water.
• Water: maintain 23–30°C, pH 6.0–7.5 and 5–15 dGH.
• Surface conditions: keep all water movement in the aquarium to a minimum.
• Food: base the diet on suitable live and frozen animal foods presented at the surface.
• Companions: exclude fin-nippers and fish small enough to be swallowed, then assess how every remaining fish uses the upper water layer.

This is an unusual choice for a keeper who enjoys observing specialised behaviour and adapting the aquarium to it. Much of the decoration below the surface can be arranged around compatible companions, but the lid, surface cover, flow and feeding position must remain centred on the butterflyfish. You can browse the wider loaches and oddballs collection separately; products shown there are alternatives to consider rather than automatic companions.

Plan space around surface area and adult size

Plan the aquarium around an adult length of 11.9 cm and a base of at least 90 × 30 cm. FishBase records 11.9 cm total length for male or unsexed fish. Choose companions that remain too large for it to swallow once it reaches that length.

The species spends much of its time at the water surface, so the footprint matters more than depth. Seriously Fish associates a 90 × 30 × 30 cm aquarium with approximately 81 litres and says the tank width is far more important than depth. Where possible, use an aquarium 15 inches (about 38 cm) or more from front to back. Use those dimensions together: a tall aquarium with a narrow top does not replace the stated 90 × 30 cm base.

Apply the space figures in the right order

1. Measure the base: confirm at least 90 cm of length and 30 cm of front-to-back width.
2. Check the cover: the entire top must close tightly enough to contain a powerful jumper.
3. Reserve the surface: floating plants should diffuse the light without preventing the fish from occupying and feeding across the upper layer.
4. Allow for companions: about 81 litres is the volume of the basic 90 × 30 × 30 cm aquarium. A mixed community or small butterflyfish group needs a roomier plan rather than simply filling the same footprint with more animals.

Do not judge capacity from litres alone. An aquarium can hold a similar volume while offering a shorter or narrower surface, which works against the dimensions stated for this fish. Start with the base measurement, then consider volume, filtration and the space used by plants or decoration.

Growth planning also prevents the dispatch measurement from becoming a long-term limit. The fish is supplied at 5 cm, but the aquarium, cover and stocking plan should already suit the 11.9 cm adult. OATA advises choosing an aquarium that can accommodate fish once fully grown, because larger aquariums are also less susceptible to rapid changes in temperature and pH.

Build a calm, covered surface zone

Create a dim, calm upper layer with floating plants and a tightly fitting lid. The aquarium should be dimly lit with floating plants, and any water movement should be kept to a minimum, so the Freshwater Butterflyfish can show its natural surface behaviour. The fish tends to remain motionless among surface plants when it is not feeding and becomes more active around dusk in the wild.

Floating plants perform two useful roles here: they diffuse the light and give the fish cover close to the waterline. Keep enough usable surface around them for the fish to rest and take food. Watch how the plants move after filtration is switched on. Constant movement across the whole surface means the water movement is too strong, even when the filter itself is appropriately sized.

Prioritise the upper layer

• Lid: ensure the aquarium cover fits tightly whenever the fish is inside. Jumping is part of its recorded biology, not an occasional quirk to ignore.
• Light: use floating growth to diffuse strong light and maintain the dim conditions recommended for the species.
• Flow: keep all water movement in the aquarium to a minimum.
• Substrate: a dark substrate may make the fish less skittish.
• Lower decoration: arrange it for compatible inhabitants because decor below the surface is less important to the butterflyfish itself.

The fish’s large pectoral fins help create the dead-leaf-like outline described by Seriously Fish and also contribute to its jumping power. A secure cover therefore matters even when the fish appears inactive. Check the fit after moving equipment, maintaining the filter or rearranging plants rather than assuming the lid still closes in the same way.

Keep surface calmness separate from poor water quality. Low visible flow does not mean running the aquarium without biological filtration. Use a mature filter that processes waste effectively while keeping water movement throughout the aquarium to a minimum. That balance allows the aquarium to stay filtered while respecting the species’ calm-water habitat.

Keep water inside the species range

Keep the Freshwater Butterflyfish at 23–30°C, pH 6.0–7.5 and 5–15 dGH. The 23–30°C instruction is the overlap between FishBase’s recorded environment and Seriously Fish’s aquarium range. Around 25–27°C (77–80°F), near the middle of that range, is best.

Set all three values as a compatible combination rather than checking temperature alone. Treat any single reading outside 23–30°C, pH 6.0–7.5 or 5–15 dGH as out of range, even when the other two are suitable. Correct out-of-range conditions before introducing the fish.

Use measurements to make decisions

• Temperature: check it regularly and keep it within 23–30°C.
• pH: maintain 6.0–7.5 and compare new aquarium water with the established tank before use.
• Hardness: keep general hardness between 5 and 15 dGH.
• Ammonia and nitrite: both should read zero mg per litre before livestock is added and during routine care.

Stability starts with knowing the water that enters the aquarium. Use our water chemistry guide to understand the measurements and record the results rather than relying on appearance. The water matcher can then compare measured aquarium values with the stated range for this fish.

The species does best in slightly soft, acidic water, preferably stained with tannins, kept within pH 6.0–7.5 and 5–15 dGH. If the aquarium already runs within those figures, prioritise keeping it steady. Test more frequently while a new aquarium is being established or after livestock is added, because changes in biological load can affect water quality.

Run a mature filter with gentle surface flow

Use a mature biological filter and keep ammonia and nitrite at zero mg per litre. The RSPCA explains that fish release toxic ammonia, which biological filtration converts first to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate. No fish should be kept without a well-set-up and maintained filter.

OATA’s freshwater aquarium sheet gives broad group guidance: dechlorinate the water, switch on the equipment and allow 24–48 hours for the system to settle so the temperature and equipment can be checked. The biological filter must then mature before fish are added. Use test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH rather than judging maturity from clear water.

If this is your first system, follow our first tropical tank guide before arranging livestock. Increase the aquarium population slowly because filter bacteria must respond whenever the number of fish and the amount of feeding rise. Rapid stocking can leave too few nitrifying bacteria to process the extra waste.

Balance filtration and surface calm

Seriously Fish uses a turnover of four to five times the aquarium volume per hour for an approximately 81-litre aquarium. That corresponds to a filter rating around 325–405 litres per hour. At the same time, it instructs keepers to minimise water movement for the butterflyfish. Choose filtration that processes waste effectively while keeping water movement throughout the aquarium to a minimum.

Feed an insectivore at the surface

Base the diet on varied live and frozen animal foods presented at the surface. FishBase records a wild diet of terrestrial insects, aquatic insect larvae and nymphs, crustaceans and fish. Seriously Fish recommends foods such as bloodworm, brine shrimp, prawn and small mealworms, with suitable live insects also matching the fish’s natural feeding biology.

This fish feeds only from the surface, so placement is as important as the food itself. Watch the food and confirm that the butterflyfish receives its share, particularly in a mixed aquarium. Food that drops away before the fish notices it does not meet its surface-feeding behaviour, even if another inhabitant later eats it.

Build variety without losing the dietary basis

• Use as main foods: suitable live and frozen bloodworm, brine shrimp, prawn and small mealworms.
• Add variety: offer live insects such as flies or spiders, and freeze-dried bloodworm.
• Use flake only as a supplement: most specimens will accept it, but it should not form the basis of the diet.
• Feed where the fish eats: place food at the waterline and observe the fish taking it.

Use the fish’s response and water tests to manage the routine. Present the food where it can be taken, confirm that it is eaten and remove uneaten material so it does not add to the aquarium’s waste load. OATA explains that uneaten food contributes to ammonia, making feeding and filtration part of the same water-quality decision.

If the fish ignores food sinking through the water column, change the presentation rather than assuming it has no appetite. If it accepts flake, continue to centre the diet on the live and frozen foods that suit its recorded insect-eating biology. In a community, watch for faster surface feeders taking everything first; the butterflyfish needs direct access to its own food.

Follow a measured maintenance routine

Test water quality at least once a week and carry out partial water changes of up to 25% every week. Adjust the exact change to the aquarium, species and number of fish.

Treat replacement tap water to make it safe and bring it to the correct temperature before adding it. Check the aquarium temperature regularly alongside ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero mg per litre, while temperature and pH must stay inside the Freshwater Butterflyfish ranges of 23–30°C and 6.0–7.5.

Use a repeatable checklist

Position the aquarium where room conditions support this routine. OATA advises a flat, level stand capable of carrying the full aquarium indefinitely, away from direct sunlight, heat, draughts, loud noises, vibrations and sudden movement. These choices reduce external changes that can work against stable temperature and behaviour.

Learn the fish’s normal appearance and actions so changes stand out. Warning signs include darker or paler colour, altered aggression or hiding, faster or slower gill movement, erratic swimming, loss of fins or scales, white spots, fluffy growths, changing body condition or reduced feeding. If you see a concerning change, test the water first and contact us for guidance. Water results help distinguish an aquarium-wide problem from a change affecting one animal.

Receive and acclimatise the fish carefully

Prepare the mature, covered aquarium before the parcel arrives. Confirm that ammonia and nitrite are zero mg per litre and that temperature, pH and hardness sit within the stated ranges. Someone must be present to receive live fish, and the parcel must be opened and inspected on the day it arrives.

Our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy explains that fish are hand-bagged in oxygen, placed in an insulated poly box and given a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel. Follow the receiving sequence without opening the parcel before filming begins.

Follow this arrival order

1. Start filming before opening: show the parcel still sealed with the outer box visible, then record the opening continuously and show the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
2. Inspect the fish that day: keep recording until the fish in the sealed bag has been clearly shown.
3. Float the bag: float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
4. Release the fish: never pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Film every delivery from the sealed parcel onward. For a Live Arrival Guarantee claim, send the order number and short continuous unboxing video on the same day; the recording should show the sealed parcel, the opening and the fish inside the sealed bag.

Once released, observe the fish at the surface and compare its behaviour with the calm, covered conditions prepared for it. Keep the lid secure from the moment the fish enters the aquarium. Continue checking water quality more frequently after adding livestock because the biological filter must adjust to the increased waste and feeding load.

Screen every companion before mixing

Avoid fin-nipping species and fish small enough to fit in the Freshwater Butterflyfish’s mouth. The Seriously Fish compatibility guidance describes the butterflyfish as generally quite peaceable, but its trailing fins tempt fin-nippers and it will eat fish it can swallow. It is also often aggressive towards other surface-dwelling species.

Use those three points as the first screening test: mouth size, fin-nipping behaviour and use of the surface. A fish should not be added merely because its water values match. It must also be too large to swallow, unlikely to damage trailing fins and able to share the aquarium without creating conflict in the upper layer.

Separate exclusions from conditional choices

These recommended companions are not guaranteed matches for every aquarium. Check that every animal shares suitable temperature, pH and hardness and that the completed stocking plan fits the aquarium’s dimensions and filtration. Individual behaviour and the way a particular aquarium divides its surface can still change the result.

For a mixed plan, check the complete animal list against the aquarium’s base dimensions and measured water values before buying any of them. Judge the space by the base dimensions rather than litres alone, because this species depends on surface area. Add livestock slowly so the biological filter can respond to each increase in waste and feeding.

Manage surface sharing and small groups

A small group of Freshwater Butterflyfish can usually be kept in a roomy aquarium with plenty of surface vegetation. Treat that as a conditional choice: the species can be somewhat aggressive towards its own kind, and a group needs both extra room and plenty of surface cover.

Plan the group around the upper layer rather than only the total litres. Start with the 90 × 30 cm species footprint, then choose a roomier aquarium for multiple butterflyfish. Extra depth alone does not address the surface-space requirement. Floating plants should provide cover while leaving enough usable waterline for every fish to rest and take food.

Watch the decisions that matter

• Food access: confirm that every butterflyfish gets its share at the surface.
• Surface use: watch whether one fish repeatedly prevents another from occupying the upper layer.
• Fin condition: inspect trailing fins because damage may indicate an unsuitable fin-nipping companion.
• Predation risk: reassess any fish that can fit into the butterflyfish’s mouth as animals grow.
• Water quality: test more frequently after increasing the group because feeding and waste have also increased.

A larger aquarium does not make fin-nippers or fish small enough to be eaten safe companions; keep both out. More space can support a carefully planned group of butterflyfish, but it does not remove the species’ predatory feeding biology or protect its trailing fins from a known nipper.

Other surface-dwelling species require particular caution because the butterflyfish is often aggressive towards fish using that zone. The named potential companions still need the same water, size and behaviour checks before introduction. Observe the completed community and revise the arrangement if feeding access, fin condition or surface sharing deteriorates.

Answer common buyer questions

How big does a Freshwater Butterflyfish get?

It reaches a recorded maximum of 11.9 cm total length. Plan the aquarium around that adult figure rather than the 5 cm dispatch grade.

What size aquarium does it need?

Use a base of at least 90 × 30 cm and approximately 81 litres. Width matters far more than depth, so use an aquarium 15 inches (about 38 cm) or more from front to back where possible.

How many Freshwater Butterflyfish should I keep together?

A small group can usually be kept in a roomy aquarium with plenty of surface vegetation, although the species can be somewhat aggressive towards its own kind. Increase surface area when keeping more than one.

What should I have ready before buying a Pantodon buchholzi?

Have a mature filter, a tightly fitting lid, a base of at least 90 × 30 cm, minimal water movement, live and frozen foods to offer at the surface and companions checked for mouth size, fin-nipping and surface use. Set all of this up before the fish arrives and keep watching its behaviour after release.

What does it eat in an aquarium?

Feed varied live and frozen animal foods at the surface, including bloodworm, brine shrimp, prawn and small mealworms. Most will accept flake, but it should not form the basis of the diet.

What temperature and pH does a Freshwater Butterflyfish need?

Keep it at 23–30°C, pH 6.0–7.5 and 5–15 dGH. The temperature is the overlap of FishBase and Seriously Fish, while Seriously Fish gives the pH and hardness ranges.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to nip fins?

It is generally quite peaceable, but it is often aggressive towards other surface-dwelling species and can be somewhat aggressive towards its own kind. Its trailing fins attract fin-nipping species, so keep fin-nippers out of its aquarium.

Which animals can Pantodon buchholzi live with?

Potential companions include Congo tetras, elephant nose fish, Synodontis catfish, African knife fish, Ctenopoma, Corydoras, many Loricariids and peaceful South American cichlids. Screen each one for water needs, adult size, fin-nipping and surface use.

How does this fish arrive alive in the UK?

It is hand-bagged in oxygen, packed in an insulated poly box with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and carried by a licensed live-animal courier. Receive it in person, film the sealed parcel before opening and float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release.

Check the public references

• FishBase: Pantodon buchholzi — scientific identity, family, distribution, recorded maximum length, environment and wild feeding biology.
• Seriously Fish: Pantodon buchholzi — aquarium dimensions, water ranges, layout, diet and compatibility.
• OATA freshwater aquarium care — aquarium preparation, testing, maintenance and general welfare guidance.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance — biological filtration and waste processing.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy — packing, receipt, filming and acclimatisation procedure.