
Platinum Ogon Koi (Cyprinus carpio)
4–24°C · pH 6.5–8.5
The gold ogon koi is a single-colour koi with a metallic gold sheen on its body and fins, an ornamental form of Cyprinus carpio with standard short fins. Koi can reach 75 cm and need a filtered pond of at least 4,500 litres with part of it deeper than 90 cm. Sold individually as one live fish at 3–4 inches.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Cyprinus carpio
The gold ogon koi is a single-colour koi with a metallic gold sheen on its body and fins, an ornamental form of Cyprinus carpio with standard short fins. Koi can reach 75 cm and need a filtered pond of at least 4,500 litres with part of it deeper than 90 cm. Sold individually as one live fish at 3–4 inches.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Read the full care guidance when planning conditions for your aquarium.
The gold ogon koi is pure, shining gold. It carries no pattern and no second colour, just an even metallic sheen on every scale, on its head and through its fins. In a pond it glows like a coin under the water, and it is often the first fish a visitor notices. If you want one koi that reads clearly from a distance and lights up a dark-lined pond, a gold ogon koi is one of the most rewarding choices you can make. It has the standard short fins of a normal koi.
Ogon are the single-colour metallic koi. The Wikipedia article on koi lists gold, platinum and orange as the colours most commonly seen, with cream very rare, and records that the variety was developed by Sawata Aoki in 1946 from wild carp caught in 1921. Practical Fishkeeping describes the metallic yellow form, Yamabuki Ogon, as the golden jewel of any pond, with a bright metallic sheen that looks almost as if it is glowing.
Like all koi, the gold ogon is an ornamental carp. It is listed as Cyprinus carpio, the common carp, as FishBase and UK law treat koi; Wikipedia notes that most koi breeds actually descend from the Amur carp, Cyprinus rubrofuscus, domesticated in Japan in the early 19th century. The name does not change its care.
| Fish | How to recognise it |
|---|---|
| Gold ogon | One colour, gold to yellow-gold, with metallic skin and fins that shine. |
| Matt yellow koi | Yellow without the metallic lustre, like our Banana Koi. |
| Orange ogon | The same metallic one-colour koi, but orange rather than gold. |
| Ghost koi | A hybrid of an ogon and a wild carp, popular in the UK; metallic scales over darker, wild-type colouring. |
Practical Fishkeeping’s simple test applies to all of them: if the fish looks shiny, it belongs to a metallic variety. Browse the rest of our koi and carp category to compare colours.
One purchase supplies one live gold ogon koi at 3–4 inches (roughly 8–10 cm). The price is for one fish. Sex is not chosen or guaranteed. The photographs show the variety rather than the fish you will receive, so expect some difference in the depth of gold and the evenness of the scales; the exact shade of gold also varies from fish to fish.
Judging quality at this size is hard. Practical Fishkeeping notes that koi under about six inches are difficult to identify and that size and lineage both play a part. For a metallic koi, look for an even scale pattern, a clean head and fins with a strong metallic lustre.
A 3–4 inch koi is only at the start of its growth. OATA says koi can grow to 75 cm, and FishBase records a maximum of 129 cm total length for the species and a common length of 31 cm. FishBase also gives a maximum reported age of 38 years, so buying a koi is a long-term commitment.
OATA recommends a pond of 4,500 litres or more for koi, with part of it deeper than 90 cm. It describes koi as slightly more delicate than other pond fish, needing good water quality with minimal fluctuations, and says they require specialist ponds and equipment: filtration systems, pumps and UV units that keep the water clear by reducing floating algae.
The depth is there for stability. OATA explains that a deep pond holds a cool zone at the bottom in hot weather and a warmer one in freezing winters, which spares koi from sudden temperature swings. Shallow ledges around the edge give you room for marginal plants, which add oxygen, take up pollutants and support the small creatures fish forage for.
| Pond (length × width × depth) | Approximate volume | Against the OATA 4,500 litre minimum |
|---|---|---|
| 2 m × 1.5 m × 0.9 m | 2,700 litres | Too small for koi |
| 3 m × 2 m × 0.9 m | 5,400 litres | Just above the minimum |
| 3 m × 2 m × 1.2 m | 7,200 litres | Comfortable for a small group |
Those are straight-sided figures; sloping sides and shelves hold less. Use our volume calculator for your own measurements and our stocking calculator to judge how many adults the pond can hold.
OATA suggests a pond that gets some sunlight, which warms the water in spring and summer and helps plants grow, but warns that too much sun can overheat the water and drive algae. Keep the pond clear of overhanging trees that drop leaves; where that is impossible, fit an autumn net. A net over the pond also protects koi from herons and other predators, especially in winter when plants give little shelter, and stops newly added fish jumping out.
Plant the margins generously. OATA notes that live plants provide oxygen, remove pollutants and provide food, directly or by supporting tiny organisms. Because it links too much sunlight and excess nitrate and phosphate to algae such as blanket weed and green water, plants that shade the surface and use up nutrients help on that front too.
Koi are carp, and carp are tough: FishBase gives the species a range of 3–35°C, pH 6.5–9.0 and 10–15 dH. In a garden pond, though, OATA asks for tighter, steadier values:
| Value | OATA pond guide |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 4–24°C |
| pH | 6.5–8.5 |
| General hardness | 8–18 °dH (medium-hard) |
| Carbonate hardness | 5–15 °dKH (medium-hard) |
| Ammonia | 0 mg per litre |
| Nitrite | 0 mg per litre |
| Nitrate | No more than 20 mg per litre above your tap water |
Every top-up adds tap water, so know what is in it. Test it for pH, hardness and nitrate, compare it with the targets in our water matcher, and read our water chemistry guide if a reading puzzles you. Always treat new water with a conditioner that removes chlorine and chloramine; our water care range has conditioners and test kits. OATA recommends testing pond water weekly, especially while the pond is new.
The filter is the heart of a koi pond. It turns toxic ammonia and nitrite into far less harmful nitrate, and OATA warns that adding fish too quickly causes “new pond syndrome”, when the filter bacteria cannot keep up; our nitrogen cycle guide explains why a filter needs time to mature. How often to clean it depends on its type, size and the number of fish, so follow the maker’s advice, and watch the flow as a sign that it is working.
In the wild, carp eat bottom-living invertebrates and plant material, FishBase records, so koi are omnivores and take pellets readily. OATA sets out a seasonal pattern for pond fish: a higher-protein food in summer to build reserves, a lower-protein, more digestible wheatgerm food as the water cools, and possibly no food at all once the water falls below 8°C. It also notes that colour-enhancing foods can bring out a fish’s colour, and that pellets come in different sizes to suit different fish. Feed only what the koi eat within a few minutes, once a day.
| Season | Suggested food |
|---|---|
| Summer | A small koi pellet such as Tropical Koi Spirulina Pellet S, with a colour food such as Tropical Koi Croissant Colour now and then. |
| Autumn | A wheatgerm food such as Koi and Goldfish Wheat Germ and Garlic sticks. |
| Winter, below about 8°C | Little or nothing. |
| Spring | Wheatgerm food in small amounts, building up as the koi become active and the filter recovers. |
When the fish arrives, follow OATA’s floating-bag method. Keep the bag out of bright light, float it on the pond for 10 minutes so the temperatures even out, then add small amounts of pond water before releasing the koi with as little bag water as possible. Our guide on how to acclimatise new fish takes you through it.
In the colder months the pond may be much colder than the bag. Then we suggest settling the koi in a quarantine tank indoors and moving it outside in spring. A tank is a short-term solution only: FishBase says carp are not recommended for home aquariums. Quarantine is worth doing whatever the season, because Cefas warns that fish carrying koi herpesvirus do not always look ill.
OATA says most pond fish get on with each other, though they may need slightly different conditions. A gold ogon looks striking next to patterned koi such as our Grade A Premium Koi Mix, and it shares a pond happily with single-tailed goldfish such as the Bronzed Comet Goldfish, with the Golden Orfe (OATA advises keeping orfe in groups of four or five) and with tench.
| Good company | Keep apart |
|---|---|
| Other koi, metallic or patterned | Twin-tailed fancy goldfish, which OATA keeps in indoor aquaria |
| Comets, shubunkins and other pond goldfish | Sturgeon, unless the pond gives them the cool, highly oxygenated water OATA says they need |
| Orfe in a group, tench and rudd | Any tropical fish |
Our tank mates tool checks a planned mix, and our guide to cold water fish for sale compares the main pond species. See everything in our goldfish and coldwater fish range.
Two virus diseases of koi must be reported by law in England and Wales. Koi herpesvirus (KHV), according to Cefas, is a contagious disease of common carp, including koi, that can cause high losses. It appears at 16–29°C, often after stress, is endemic in Great Britain and has no treatment. Spring viraemia of carp (SVC), says Cefas, affects koi, goldfish and other carp, is most active at 11–17°C, and Great Britain is free of it. Suspected cases of either must be reported to the Fish Health Inspectorate at Cefas immediately.
| What you see | What to do |
|---|---|
| Koi hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom, flicking or with clamped fins | Test the water straight away; correct ammonia or nitrite with a partial water change. |
| Lethargic fish crowding the water inlet or shallows, pale or damaged gills, rough dry skin, too much or too little mucus | Suspect KHV: keep fish, water and equipment where they are and contact the Fish Health Inspectorate. |
| Red patches or bleeding on the skin, fin bases or vent | Suspect KHV or SVC and report it. |
| White spots, fluffy growths, missing scales | Identify before treating, and test the water first. |
Cefas advises never buying fish of unknown origin and notes that these viruses travel with fish, water and equipment, so quarantine every new fish and use separate nets for each pond.
A healthy koi in a good pond lives for decades; FishBase gives 38 years as the maximum reported age for the species, while much older ages claimed for individual koi in Japan are not well verified. Koi may spawn in late spring and early summer: FishBase notes carp breed at 15–20°C, lay sticky eggs on plants that hatch in about four days, and that a spawning female is usually followed by several males. OATA warns that koi can be aggressive while breeding and can injure, or even kill, females, especially in a pond with more males than females. And Wikipedia notes that koi revert to wild colouring within a few generations if they breed freely, so pond-bred young seldom match their gold parent.
A koi of one metallic colour, gold from head to tail, with no pattern. Ogon are the single-colour metallic koi, and gold is one of the three colours most often seen, with platinum and orange. Practical Fishkeeping calls the metallic yellow form, Yamabuki Ogon, the golden jewel of any pond.
The shine. Practical Fishkeeping notes that a koi that looks shiny belongs to a metallic variety. A gold ogon has metallic skin and fins; a matt yellow koi, such as our Banana Koi, has the colour without the metallic lustre.
OATA says koi can reach 75 cm, and FishBase records 129 cm for the species, with a common length of 31 cm. The fish is supplied at 3–4 inches, so plan the pond for an adult of 60 cm or more.
OATA recommends at least 4,500 litres, with part of the pond deeper than 90 cm, and specialist filtration, a pump and a UV unit. As a guide, a regular pond 3 m long, 2 m wide and 1 m deep holds about 6,000 litres.
Yes, with single-tailed pond goldfish such as comets and shubunkins. OATA says most pond fish are compatible. Keep twin-tailed fancy goldfish indoors in an aquarium instead.
No. GOV.UK guidance for England and Wales says you do not need a licence to keep common carp, which includes koi. It is illegal to release them into the wild.
OATA suggests switching to a wheatgerm food as the water cools and says it may be better not to feed at all below 8°C. Restart slowly in spring.
A notifiable viral disease of carp, including koi, that can kill many fish. Cefas says it occurs at 16–29°C, has no treatment and is endemic in Great Britain. Report a suspected case to the Fish Health Inspectorate at Cefas.
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