Rachovi's Nothobranch Beira 98 Albino (Nothobranchius rachovii)

Understand the animal and the offer

Rachovi's Nothobranch Beira 98 Albino is the named aquarium form of Nothobranchius rachovii, a freshwater annual killifish in the family Nothobranchiidae. FishBase places it in temporary pools, swamps and water-filled depressions across lowland floodplains associated with the lower Pungwe and lower Zambezi rivers in Africa, and records a maximum of 6 cm total length. It suits an intermediate keeper who can maintain stable water, use small live or frozen foods and manage a covered, filtered aquarium.

Its annual life cycle reflects those seasonal habitats. Adults reproduce while water remains, then fertilised eggs persist within the substrate after the habitat dries. Seriously Fish reports that rains return after roughly five to six months in nature, allowing the next generation to hatch and develop rapidly. Keep the aquarium stable and continuously filtered rather than attempting to recreate a drying pool around live adults.

What one purchase means

One purchase supplies one live fish at approximately 2.5–3.5 cm. This is the dispatch size rather than the adult length.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Rachovi's Nothobranch Beira 98 Albino listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative, based on reference photographs of this species, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Treat the words Beira 98 Albino as the identifying aquarium-form designation. They do not change the species-level water, space and feeding requirements below, and neither the gallery nor the dispatch size should be used to infer sex, maturity or origin.

Plan the aquarium around the adult size

The 2.5–3.5 cm dispatch size is only the starting point. FishBase records a maximum of 6 cm total length, while Seriously Fish gives 55 mm standard length. Plan around the 6 cm maximum recorded length and the fish's need for usable horizontal space.

Seriously Fish recommends a base of at least 45 × 30 cm and approximately 41 litres even for a single pair, except during temporary spawning isolation. Use that same minimum footprint when beginning with one animal. A small dispatch fish still needs stable water, an established biological filter and a secure cover, and the larger footprint leaves room for shelter and later stocking decisions.

Keep the aquarium within 20–24°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–6 dGH. These routine values are the overlap between FishBase and Seriously Fish; holding the aquarium steadily within them is more useful than moving between their limits.

Aquarium volume alone cannot describe a workable layout. Measure the internal base after allowing for thick backgrounds or bulky decorations, and preserve open feeding room alongside planted or ornamental shelter. If more fish are planned, increase footprint and visual separation rather than assuming that the minimum pair aquarium will suit every social combination.

Decide whether the care fits your routine

This is an intermediate choice in our care classification. Its modest adult size helps with space planning, but the keeper still needs a covered aquarium, stable soft water, regular testing and dependable access to suitably small foods. Social planning also requires attention because the purchase does not establish a male-to-female ratio.

A suitable keeper can provide

• A filtered aquarium prepared before the animal arrives, with ammonia and nitrite at zero.
• A close-fitting cover because OATA advises that an aquarium cover is essential for killifish.
• Water held within 20–24°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–6 dGH.
• Small live or frozen Daphnia, Artemia and chopped bloodworm as the basis of the diet.
• Weekly water testing and a routine partial water change.
• A practical separation plan if several fish later show persistent social conflict.

Prepare the aquarium before bringing the fish home. Our first tropical aquarium guide explains how to establish biological filtration before livestock is introduced. A newly filled tank is not equivalent to an aquarium with a functioning bacterial population.

During the first month, judge success through measured water quality, steady breathing, normal swimming, intact fins and reliable feeding. Do not use rapid growth or intense colour as the main test. Males are described as larger and much more colourful than females, but colour and body size are not a substitute for an explicitly sexed purchasing option.

If your routine cannot support once-daily feeding, weekly tests and a 25% water change at least once a week, prepare that routine before bringing the fish home. The compact body size does not reduce the consequences of missed filtration or accumulating waste.

Build a covered, structured aquarium

Start with a base of at least 45 × 30 cm and approximately 41 litres. Place the aquarium on a level support, leave access for filter maintenance and arrange cables so the cover can close around them. The lid is part of the permanent setup rather than an optional accessory.

Divide the footprint into useful zones

OATA recommends aquarium gravel or sand and ideally heavy planting for killifish, particularly where multiple males may be kept. Plastic plants and suitable ornaments such as model caves or plant pots can provide shelter when live planting is not used. Choose aquarium-safe pieces that remain stable during maintenance and do not prevent you from locating a fish that has stopped feeding.

This species does not require peat for routine maintenance. Seriously Fish notes that peat moss is often used as a spawning medium, but a display aquarium can be arranged without it. Keep breeding equipment separate from the everyday welfare plan unless you have deliberately prepared a managed spawning project.

Close openings around pipes, cables and feeding flaps after every task. A partly displaced cover is still an open route. Arrange feeding access so you can add food without leaving the aquarium uncovered while waiting for thawed food or equipment.

Check the finished layout

1. Confirm that the internal base meets or exceeds 45 × 30 cm.
2. Make sure the cover sits securely after the filter and heater cables are fitted.
3. Check that each fish could move between cover and open feeding space.
4. Confirm that equipment can be inspected without dismantling the aquascape.
5. Leave enough open water to observe breathing, swimming and feeding clearly.

When several animals are planned, add more than one sheltered route and feeding point. Extra decoration only helps when it creates usable separation; a crowded central pile can reduce swimming space without giving a pursued fish a genuine way out.

Hold water and filtration steady

Keep the aquarium at 20–24°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–6 dGH. This is the overlap between the species-level ranges from Seriously Fish and FishBase. Hold the aquarium steadily within these values rather than pushing it rapidly between the limits.

Measure the aquarium before choosing corrective products. The water chemistry guide explains what pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate measurements mean, while the Water Parameter Matcher helps compare measured water with the stated range. Record readings consistently so a trend can be distinguished from a single unusual result.

Use the numbers as operating limits

OATA's broad killifish guidance gives zero ammonia, zero nitrite and nitrate no more than 20 mg/L above the normal tap-water level. These waste limits guide testing and maintenance alongside the aquarium range above.

Provide continuous biological filtration. The RSPCA explains that beneficial filter bacteria convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to safer nitrate. Never treat clear-looking water as proof that this process is working; use test results.

For an aquarium of about 41 litres, Seriously Fish suggests turnover of four to five times the volume each hour, corresponding to a filter rating of roughly 165–205 litres per hour. Check the actual flow after media and fittings are installed. The fish must still be able to hold position and reach food without fighting a concentrated current.

A heater of roughly 25 W is suggested for this volume when the room is around 20°C. Heater output is a planning reference, not a promise for every room or aquarium shape, so confirm the achieved temperature with a separate aquarium thermometer.

Feed small foods with control

Seriously Fish describes this fish as a natural micropredator and recommends small live or frozen foods such as Daphnia, Artemia and chopped bloodworm as the basis of the diet. Freeze-dried Daphnia, Artemia and bloodworm can also be used. Match every item to the mouth size of the animal in front of you, especially at the 2.5–3.5 cm dispatch size.

Feed once a day and offer only what can be eaten within a few minutes. This schedule follows OATA's killifish guidance. Uneaten food breaks down and adds waste, so a larger portion is not a shortcut to better condition or faster growth.

Build variety without losing control

For one fish, begin with a deliberately small portion, watch until feeding activity stops and remove accessible remains. For several fish, divide the same controlled meal between separate points. This lets you see whether every individual eats instead of assuming that food added to the aquarium was shared evenly.

If you see this, take this action

• Food repeatedly ignored: check particle size, presentation, water readings and whether the fish is being disturbed.
• One fish takes every item: spread food across more than one sheltered feeding position and reassess the group.
• Food remains after a few minutes: remove it where practical and reduce the next portion.
• Body condition falls: record actual intake and check for social exclusion or a wider health change.
• The abdomen remains unusually enlarged: stop adding more food and assess water, behaviour and progression.

Keep a brief feeding note during the first week: food type, amount offered, whether it was eaten and which feeding point was used. That simple record separates food refusal from competition and prevents repeated overfeeding when several people care for the aquarium.

Prepare arrival and introduction in advance

Finish the aquarium before arranging the animal's arrival. The filter should already support its biological workload, the heater should hold the intended temperature and the lid should close with all equipment fitted. Test ammonia and nitrite and proceed only when both read zero.

Complete the pre-arrival check

1. Measure temperature, pH and general hardness and compare them with 20–24°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–6 dGH.
2. Confirm that ammonia and nitrite are zero mg/L.
3. Check that the filter is operating and that its flow does not dominate the aquarium.
4. Close every gap around cables, pipes and feeding flaps.
5. Prepare a suitable small food without adding it in advance.
6. Identify a sheltered release area where the fish can orient itself without strong current.

Read the delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy before the delivery date.

Follow the arrival steps in order

1. Be present to receive the parcel because live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. Start filming before the sealed parcel is opened and continue in one take while the outer box is visible, the parcel is opened and the fish remains inside the sealed bag.
3. Open and inspect the parcel on the same day it arrives.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Release the fish without pouring the bag water into the aquarium.

OATA advises checking the aquarium's size and water quality before introducing killifish. Add livestock gradually because the beneficial bacterial population must grow as the number of fish and the amount of feeding increase. A sudden stocking increase can leave the biological filter unable to process the additional waste.

Use the first hours for quiet observation

After introduction, watch balance, breathing and swimming. When the fish is settled enough to respond, offer a small amount of suitable food and remove remains rather than adding a second large meal.

Where several animals enter the aquarium, account for each individual. Check whether all can leave the release area, reach cover and gain feeding access. Brief hiding after transport calls for calm observation; persistent surface hanging, bottom sitting, erratic swimming or unusually fast breathing calls for immediate water and equipment checks.

First-week checkpoints

Maintain a repeatable weekly routine

Carry out a 25% partial water change at least once a week. OATA strongly recommends this schedule for killifish and advises testing at least weekly so ammonia and nitrite do not build up. Use a siphon where practical to remove solid waste from gravel or sand rather than replacing clear-looking water alone.

Weekly sequence

1. Observe the fish before disturbing the aquarium and note appetite, breathing, fins and social position.
2. Test ammonia, nitrite and the other values needed to keep the chosen water preparation consistent.
3. Prepare replacement water with tap-water conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine.
4. Change 25% while removing accessible solid waste.
5. Check the filter for blockages and confirm normal flow after restarting equipment.
6. Recheck temperature and make sure the cover is fully seated.

Match replacement water closely enough to avoid a sudden temperature or chemistry shift. The goal is not to move the aquarium around within the whole permitted range each week. A tank held consistently at one suitable point is easier for the fish and easier for the keeper to monitor.

Protect the biological filter

When filter media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. Do not rinse it under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may damage the beneficial bacteria. Avoid replacing all established media at the same time.

Keep the routine simple enough to repeat. A dated log of water results, water-change percentage and filter work shows whether a change followed maintenance, heavier feeding or a stocking increase. It also prevents different keepers from cleaning the filter twice or missing a scheduled water change.

During the first month, review the log weekly. Once the aquarium follows a predictable pattern, continue the same schedule rather than reducing care because the fish appears settled.

Respond to changes early

Learn the individual's normal swimming, feeding and resting pattern. OATA recommends watching for changes in swimming behaviour, colour, temperament, breathing, appearance, body condition and food intake. A change has more meaning when compared with the fish's usual behaviour and with measured water conditions.

Check water and equipment first

White spots, fluffy growths, ulcerations, bumps, damaged fins, altered body condition and sustained loss of appetite all warrant close attention. Several different problems can produce similar outward changes, so record what changed, when it began and whether more than one fish is affected.

If water readings are outside the operating limits, correct the measured problem promptly with conditioned water changes and restored filtration. Do not respond to a visible symptom by feeding more heavily. Extra food increases waste and can make interpretation harder when the fish is already eating less.

Separate for a clear welfare reason

Use a prepared, filtered and covered aquarium when social pressure prevents feeding or causes repeated cornering and fin damage. Moving a fish into an unprepared container replaces one problem with unstable water and inadequate filtration. Observe both the separated animal and the remaining aquarium after the move.

Contact us if a health change persists after water, equipment, feeding access and social pressure have been checked. Include the water results, temperature, a description of the change and when it began so the next step can be considered from concrete observations.

Annual biology is not a reason to accept wasting, breathing distress or preventable injury. Judge daily welfare by normal movement, feeding access, body condition and clean water, then act while changes are still small.

Plan the social arrangement before adding numbers

OATA advises that killifish benefit from companionship and suggests keeping at least three, arranged as two females to each male, to reduce pressure on females and other inhabitants. That ratio can only be managed after sex has been established; purchasing several animals here does not create a planned ratio.

Seriously Fish gives the minimum 45 × 30 cm base and approximately 41 litres for a single pair. Use more footprint, cover and observation capacity when keeping three or more. OATA recommends heavy planting or alternative shelter, especially where multiple males are kept together.

Choose the plan you can manage

Males are reported to grow larger and become much more colourful than females. Use behaviour and a confident identification process when reorganising a group; do not treat one snapshot, the gallery or the dispatch measurement as a guaranteed diagnosis.

Watch the effect, not only the chase

• A brief interaction followed by normal swimming and feeding calls for continued observation.
• Repeated cornering, exclusion from food, damaged fins or persistent hiding calls for intervention.
• If added cover does not stop sustained pressure, move the affected fish to a prepared aquarium.
• After any group change, confirm that every animal eats and that ammonia and nitrite remain zero.

A social plan must include a real separation option before conflict develops. The spare aquarium needs established filtration, a secure cover and suitable water; an empty container stored in a cupboard is not yet a workable backup.

Screen every community companion

A species-focused aquarium is the clearest starting point because it lets feeding, water and social observations centre on this killifish. Community keeping remains a case-by-case decision. OATA notes that some killifish are shy and prone to bullying, while others can live in community aquariums when companions are selected carefully.

Apply every screen before mixing

Avoid boisterous tank mates. Also avoid long-finned species because OATA notes that some male killifish may be aggressive towards them. The exact result still depends on the individuals and aquarium.

Collection labels help aquarists keep annual-killifish lines apart and limit hybridisation. Avoid mixing different Nothobranchius forms in a breeding project when eggs or descendants could be confused. Keep each breeding line and its notes separate.

Make the stocking decision from measurements

Write down the aquarium base, volume, temperature, pH, hardness, present adult stock and normal foods. Reject any candidate that fails one of those basic screens. If every value overlaps, add slowly and retain a prepared separation option because compatibility cannot be guaranteed by water values alone.

Browse the killifish collection to compare identities and care requirements, but assess each animal independently rather than treating all killifish as interchangeable. Different members of the group vary in size, behaviour and community suitability.

Once a community addition is made, watch feeding access, hiding, chasing, fins and breathing during the first week. A companion that causes sustained exclusion or damage has failed the practical screen even when the numerical water ranges overlap.

Answer the essential buyer questions

How big does Rachovi's Nothobranch Beira 98 Albino get?

Rachovi's Nothobranch Beira 98 Albino reaches up to 6 cm total length according to FishBase; plan around that adult figure rather than its 2.5–3.5 cm dispatch size.

What aquarium does Nothobranchius rachovii need?

Nothobranchius rachovii needs a covered, filtered aquarium with a base of at least 45 × 30 cm and approximately 41 litres, the minimum Seriously Fish recommends even for a pair.

How many Rachovi's Nothobranch Beira 98 Albinos should I keep?

OATA suggests at least three killifish with two females to each male, but use that ratio only after sex is established; increase space and cover for a group and prepare a filtered separation aquarium.

Is Nothobranchius rachovii suitable for beginners?

Nothobranchius rachovii is an intermediate choice suited to a prepared keeper who can maintain a covered, filtered aquarium, stable water, daily small foods and a managed social plan.

What does Nothobranchius rachovii eat?

Nothobranchius rachovii is a natural micropredator whose diet should be based on small live or frozen Daphnia, Artemia and chopped bloodworm; feed once daily and only what it can eat within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it within the FishBase and Seriously Fish overlap of 20–24°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–6 dGH; keep ammonia and nitrite at zero mg/L.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Some male killifish may be aggressive towards long-finned fish, so avoid long-finned companions and intervene if chasing causes cornering, lost feeding access or damaged fins.

What kinds of animals can it live with?

Use a species-focused aquarium unless a calm companion matches 20–24°C, pH 6.0–7.0 and 4–6 dGH and passes the adult-size, feeding and behaviour screens; avoid boisterous tank mates.

How does it arrive alive in the UK?

The Tropical Fish Co delivery policy requires someone to be present to receive it. Film every delivery continuously from the sealed parcel as it is opened with the fish still in the sealed bag, float the bag for 20–30 minutes, and never pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Reading and references

• FishBase: Nothobranchius rachovii — taxonomy, family, freshwater environment, distribution, environmental values and maximum recorded length.
• Seriously Fish: Nothobranchius rachovii — aquarium footprint, water range, filtration planning, diet, sexual dimorphism and annual natural history.
• OATA: How to look after killifish — UK group guidance for water quality, housing, companionship, feeding, introduction, maintenance and observation.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance — the function of biological filtration and its role in processing ammonia and nitrite.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy — packing, arrival, acclimatisation and Live Arrival Guarantee procedures.