Chilumba Maison Reef Zebra Mbuna Cichlid (Pseudotropheus zebra chilumba maison reef sp.)

Choose this mbuna for a dedicated Malawi aquarium

The Chilumba Maison Reef Zebra Mbuna Cichlid is a freshwater, rock-dwelling Lake Malawi cichlid sold under the established Pseudotropheus zebra name. FishBase now lists it as Maylandia zebra and places it in the family Cichlidae. That naming update does not change the central buying decision: this is a territorial mbuna for a purpose-planned Malawi aquarium rather than a mixed general tropical community.

In Lake Malawi, adults occupy rocky areas ranging from shallow, sediment-free habitat to deeper rocks with more sediment. They feed at right angles to the substrate, combing loose material from the biological covering on rocks, and they also take plankton in open water. That natural behaviour explains the value of extensive rockwork and an algae-led aquarium diet.

This fish suits a keeper prepared to manage aggression, hard alkaline water, strong biological filtration and a carefully chosen community. Its bold behaviour should be treated as a stocking constraint, not as a reason to reduce hiding places. Caves, crevices and broken lines of sight give fish more ways to establish and leave territories.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Select the dispatch size separately from the adult plan

One purchase quantity supplies one animal of the selected option. Use the live size selector to choose between the labels 3 - 4 cm, 4 - 5 cm, 5-6 cm and 7-9 cm. The selector is the place to check which label can be chosen when ordering; the static description does not replace it.

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. A smaller dispatch fish still needs an aquarium planned around the mature territorial cichlid. Do not use the dispatch measurement to justify a smaller permanent aquarium, weaker filter or gentler community. Growth changes the space occupied by the fish, while mbuna aggression also depends on territories, sex balance and the behaviour of every other resident.

Prepare the full aquarium before choosing a size. Measure the tank base, test its water, check filtration and review every resident’s adult size and temperament. A larger dispatch fish is not automatically dominant, and a smaller one is not automatically safe beside established cichlids; the whole stocking pattern decides the risk.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Chilumba Maison Reef Zebra Mbuna Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Plan the aquarium around the adult size and water range

FishBase lists a maximum of 11.3 cm standard length for male or unsexed Maylandia zebra. A separate Seriously Fish aquarium profile uses 15.2 cm standard length as its planning reference and recommends a base of 120 × 38 cm with about 205 litres. Use that larger planning reference when choosing the aquarium; it creates a more cautious space allowance without promising the eventual length of an individual fish.

Seriously Fish gives 22–28°C, pH 7.6–8.6 and 10–25 dGH for the species. OATA’s Malawi-cichlid guidance narrows those values to 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18 dGH for the group. Use the narrower values as the routine target rather than chasing one exact optimum.

Footprint matters alongside litres because rock piles, caves and territories occupy the base. Start with the 120 × 38 cm benchmark, then consider whether the intended Malawi community, rock structure and filter can all fit without removing the territorial complexity this fish needs.

Check whether this animal suits the aquarium

Build a rocky layout with many territorial choices

Fill much of the aquarium with rock piles arranged to create numerous caves and crevices. The aim is not one dominant cave surrounded by open water; provide several routes through and around the rocks so a chased fish can leave a territory without immediately entering another dead end. Broken sight lines make it harder for one resident to monitor the whole aquarium continuously.

Divide the footprint deliberately

Sand is the preferred substrate in the species profile. OATA also notes that Malawi cichlids dig and rearrange the substrate, which will uproot any plants present. Only the hardiest plants that grow attached to décor are practical when plants are included.

Bright lighting can encourage algae and the microorganisms associated with it on the rock surfaces. This supports the fish’s grazing behaviour, although it does not replace deliberate feeding. Keep enough rock structure to provide cover even if the aquarium looks visually busy; a sparse display sacrifices one of the principal aggression-management tools.

Before adding livestock, view the aquarium from the front and both ends. If you can see uninterrupted from one end to the other, turn or extend a rock pile to divide that view. Then check that caves have usable entrances and that the layout leaves room for maintenance. Browse the African cichlid collection only after deciding which adult fish can share the same water, footprint, diet and level of aggression.

Hold stable hard alkaline water within the routine range

Keep the aquarium at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and general hardness 12–18 dGH. OATA also gives a carbonate hardness range of 10–15 dKH for Malawi cichlids. Test the water that will actually enter the aquarium rather than assuming that local tap water already matches these values.

Measure before making a stocking decision

• Temperature: check that the heater and room conditions can hold 23–27°C consistently.
• pH: keep routine readings between 8.0 and 8.6.
• General hardness: use 12–18 dGH as the working range.
• Carbonate hardness: use 10–15 dKH when assessing buffering.
• Ammonia and nitrite: both should read zero mg per litre before fish are introduced.
• Nitrate: keep it from exceeding 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.

Our water chemistry guide explains what each measurement tells you. Record the aquarium and tap-water results on the same day so changes in the source water are not mistaken for changes created inside the tank.

If the measured aquarium values sit outside the routine range, resolve the mismatch before introduction. The water matcher can compare your readings with the target values. Recheck after any adjustment and again before livestock enters; one isolated reading is less useful than a stable pattern.

Use conditioned replacement water during maintenance so chlorine or chloramine does not enter the aquarium. Match routine husbandry to the measured water rather than changing several variables at once. Temperature, mineral content, waste processing and stocking pressure work together, so a correct pH reading cannot compensate for ammonia, nitrite or an immature filter.

Mature the filter and size it for a busy Malawi aquarium

A working biological filter is essential. The RSPCA’s aquarium filtration guidance explains that fish waste releases toxic ammonia, beneficial bacteria convert it to nitrite, and further bacterial action converts nitrite to the safer nitrate. The aquarium must therefore be matured before the fish arrives, not filled and stocked on the same day.

Use our first aquarium guide to prepare and mature the system. Confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite before introduction. When fish numbers or feeding increase, the bacterial population must also support the extra waste; OATA advises increasing livestock slowly because stocking too quickly can trigger new tank syndrome.

Translate the aquarium plan into equipment capacity

For the roughly 205-litre planning example, the species profile recommends filtration turnover of four to five times the aquarium volume each hour. The calculation is straightforward:

• 205 litres × 4: about 820 litres per hour.
• 205 litres × 5: about 1,025 litres per hour.

Use that 820–1,025 lph example as a starting point for a tank near 205 litres, while allowing for the effect of filter media, pipework and maintenance on the working flow. OATA recommends an oversized filter for crowded Malawi communities and strong aeration to maintain adequate dissolved oxygen.

The same species profile estimates about 200–300 W of heating for a tank of this size when the room is around 20°C. Check that the chosen heater can hold 23–27°C in the actual room rather than selecting wattage from volume alone. Position water movement so heated and filtered water circulates through the aquarium without removing every calmer route around the rocks.

Feed an algae-led diet in controlled portions

Make vegetable matter the basis of the diet. Suitable choices named for this fish include Spirulina flakes, blanched spinach, nori and other green foods, alongside a quality dried food and an algae-based food. This approach matches its natural habit of combing loose material from the biological covering on rocks, while allowing for the plankton it also takes in open water.

Use a simple twice-daily routine

1. Offer only the amount the fish can finish within a few minutes.
2. Watch the whole community rather than judging the portion by the first fish to feed.
3. Remove or reduce food if pieces remain and begin breaking down in the aquarium.
4. Repeat with a second controlled feeding later in the day.

OATA recommends feeding Malawi cichlids twice daily and limiting each meal to what they consume within a few minutes. That instruction controls both body condition and water pollution. Uneaten food releases waste as it decomposes, increasing the burden on the filter and undermining the zero-ammonia, zero-nitrite target.

High-protein food is not recommended as the basis of this species’ diet. Seriously Fish allows a couple of treats each week, such as live or frozen bloodworm or Artemia, but says not to overdo the protein. Never feed beefheart or other animal meat; the profile warns that it interferes with the digestive system of these fish.

Watch body condition as well as appetite because this zebra mbuna is described as particularly prone to obesity. A fish rushing to the surface does not show that the portion is appropriate. If body condition increases, reduce the quantity rather than removing the algae-led balance. If food remains after a few minutes, shorten the next portion and check whether every resident can reach food without being displaced by aggression.

Complete the same maintenance cycle every week

At least once every week, change 25% of the aquarium water. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate, particularly around rock bases and other places where debris collects. Treat the replacement tap water with conditioner before it enters the aquarium so chlorine or chloramine does not damage fish or filter bacteria.

Use one repeatable weekly checklist

• Test ammonia and nitrite and confirm both are zero mg per litre.
• Check nitrate against the tap-water baseline and keep it within 20 mg per litre above that level.
• Record temperature, pH, general hardness and carbonate hardness.
• Change 25% of the water at least once every week and siphon visible solid waste.
• Inspect the filter for blockages and check that flow and aeration remain effective.
• Look at every fish for changes in swimming, breathing, colour, fins, scales, condition and feeding.

Do not wash biological filter media under the tap. If cleaning is needed, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. This limits exposure to chlorine or chloramine and reduces the loss of the beneficial bacteria responsible for processing waste.

Use the written results to spot direction as well as individual values. A nitrate reading that remains within the limit but rises each week points to increasing waste, feeding or stocking pressure. Falling filter flow calls for a blockage check rather than an immediate increase in food or fish. Repeated pH or hardness movement calls for comparison with the tap-water readings and the materials used in the aquarium.

Maintenance should preserve the territorial layout as well as water quality. Return rocks and caves to a deliberate arrangement after cleaning. If aggression has become concentrated around one structure, rearranging décor can make established fish find new territories, but retain numerous caves and broken sight lines.

Prepare the aquarium before acclimating the fish

Complete the aquarium checks before the parcel arrives. Confirm that someone can receive the fish, the aquarium is fully matured, ammonia and nitrite are both zero, and temperature, pH and hardness sit within the routine range. Leave the established filter running and make any major layout decision before opening the transport bag.

Follow the store acclimatisation sequence

1. Receive the parcel in person.
2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, with the outer box visible, then open it in one continuous take and show the fish inside the sealed bag.
3. Float the bag in the aquarium for 20–30 minutes.
4. Release the fish after that floating period.
5. Do not pour the transport-bag water into the aquarium.

These steps follow the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy. Read the policy before the delivery date for the receiving requirements and the short unboxing-video requirement attached to a Live Arrival Guarantee claim.

If the fish is joining a Malawi community, decide how it will enter the territorial structure before release. OATA recommends adding more peaceful species before more aggressive ones and adding Malawi cichlids in groups to reduce the risk of one newcomer receiving all the aggression. Rearranging the décor can also interrupt established territories. These measures reduce risk, but they do not make every combination suitable.

After release, observe where the newcomer can retreat and whether another fish blocks all routes to food or cover. A brief chase and sustained exclusion are different practical problems: if the newcomer cannot leave a territory, reach cover or move through the aquarium, intervene by reassessing the rock arrangement and the stocking plan rather than waiting for visible damage.

Watch behaviour and condition through the first month

Learn the fish’s normal swimming, breathing, colour, temperament and feeding pattern. Individual fish vary, so a useful health check compares today’s behaviour with the same animal’s usual pattern while also checking objective water readings.

Use clear observation checkpoints

Warning changes named by OATA include hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom, erratic swimming, unusually fast or slow gill movement, darker or paler colour, increased hiding, altered aggression, reduced appetite, white spots, fluffy growths, lost fins or scales, ulcerations, bumps and a marked change in body condition.

If you see a concerning change, test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, temperature and the routine mineral values first. Check filter flow, aeration and whether the fish can reach cover and food. Record what changed and when. Contact us for health guidance after taking those readings, particularly when breathing, swimming, appetite or skin condition changes.

Do not respond to every change by feeding more. Reduced appetite can occur alongside poor water quality or aggression, while excess food adds further waste. Likewise, a fish that hides more than usual needs a territory and water-quality check rather than the immediate removal of all cover. Use the observed sign to choose the next check: breathing points first to water and aeration, damage points to aggression and décor, and increasing body condition points to portion control.

Screen every community candidate before mixing

Seriously Fish describes the zebra as one of the more aggressive mbuna and unsuitable for a general tropical aquarium. Keep that warning central to the stocking plan. Shared temperature alone does not make two fish compatible; compare adult size, aggression, diet, water chemistry, territorial behaviour and the available aquarium footprint.

Apply the strongest supported exclusions first

OATA limits Malawi-cichlid companions to other Malawi cichlids or some Synodontis species that also inhabit Lake Malawi. That is a boundary for assessment rather than a promise that every fish within those categories will work. Seriously Fish says the zebra can fit many Malawi communities while specifically excluding gentle mbuna such as Aulonocara.

Assess the aquarium as a whole. A candidate that matches the water may still compete poorly for food, occupy the same caves or be unable to escape persistent chasing. Conversely, adding another aggressive fish does not automatically balance the tank; it may create another territorial conflict. Ask us for one stocking and compatibility assessment with the aquarium dimensions, volume, rock layout and a complete list of residents and proposed additions.

Manage sex ratios without relying on a pair

Do not plan this fish as a simple pair. OATA notes that Malawi cichlids are not social fish, can be highly aggressive and often fight when kept in small groups. For a reasonable Malawi community, its guidance uses at least 15 fish with slight overstocking to distribute aggression. That approach requires a sufficiently large aquarium, oversized filtration, strong aeration and a carefully assessed species mix; it is not permission to exceed the system’s waste-processing capacity.

Apply sex-ratio advice only when sex is known

Seriously Fish recommends three females for every male and no more than one male in any aquarium below 200 litres. More females can spread a male’s attention rather than leaving one female to receive persistent harassment. Only use that ratio when each individual has been reliably sexed; do not infer sex from dispatch size, colour or a representative gallery image.

The 200-litre male threshold should not be read backwards. An aquarium just above 200 litres does not automatically make multiple males compatible. The species planning benchmark is about 205 litres with a 120 × 38 cm base, and the result still depends on territory structure, female numbers, the character of individual fish and every other resident.

Respond to territorial pressure with a sequence

1. Check whether every fish can reach more than one cave or escape route.
2. Identify whether one resident controls food, cover or an entire rock pile.
3. Rearrange décor to make all residents establish new territories.
4. Reassess the number, sex balance and temperament of the fish involved.
5. Check ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, filter flow and aeration before increasing stocking.

Aggression management is a complete-system decision. More fish can distribute attention in a correctly planned Malawi community, but more waste also places greater demand on the biological filter. Balance social structure, physical territory and water quality rather than treating any single measure as a universal solution.

Answer the key questions before choosing this fish

What is the Chilumba Maison Reef Zebra Mbuna Cichlid?

It is a territorial, rock-dwelling Lake Malawi cichlid that grazes rocky biocover and also takes plankton in nature. Its aquarium should be planned as a dedicated hard-water Malawi setup rather than a general tropical community.

How many Chilumba Maison Reef Zebra Mbuna Cichlids does one purchase supply?

One purchase quantity supplies one animal of the selected option. Use the live selector to choose a dispatch-size label and check which label can be selected when ordering.

Which dispatch sizes are shown for the Chilumba Maison Reef Zebra Mbuna Cichlid?

The selector labels are 3 - 4 cm, 4 - 5 cm, 5-6 cm and 7-9 cm. These are dispatch sizes, so plan the permanent aquarium around the adult fish rather than the selected measurement.

What aquarium does this fish need?

Use a rocky Malawi aquarium with a base of 120 × 38 cm and about 205 litres as the planning benchmark. Provide sand, extensive rock piles, many caves, broken sight lines, mature filtration and strong aeration.

Should the Chilumba Maison Reef Zebra Mbuna Cichlid be kept alone, as a pair or in a group?

Do not rely on a pair. Malawi-community guidance uses at least 15 fish to distribute aggression, while the species profile recommends three females per male when sex is known and no more than one male below 200 litres.

What water does Pseudotropheus zebra need?

Keep routine aquarium water at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18 dGH, with carbonate hardness of 10–15 dKH. Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero mg per litre.

What should this mbuna eat?

Base its diet on vegetable matter such as Spirulina flakes, blanched spinach, nori, other green foods and a quality algae-based dried food. Feed only what it finishes within a few minutes, twice daily, and avoid animal meat.

How should this fish be acclimatised?

Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, then open it in one continuous take and show the fish inside the sealed bag. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release and do not pour transport-bag water into the aquarium.

Can this fish live in a general tropical community?

No. It is an aggressive mbuna suited to a carefully planned Malawi community, not a general tropical aquarium. Avoid gentle mbuna such as Aulonocara or Peacock cichlids and screen every proposed companion individually.

References used for identity and care decisions

• FishBase — Maylandia zebra: accepted name, family, Lake Malawi distribution, wild environment, feeding behaviour and maximum recorded standard length.
• Seriously Fish — Maylandia zebra: aquarium footprint, volume reference, water ranges, filtration example, diet and behaviour.
• Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association — African Malawi cichlids: routine water guidance, feeding schedule, maintenance, introduction and community planning.
• RSPCA — aquarium environment: biological filtration and aquarium-waste processing.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy: receiving, acclimatisation and claim requirements.