Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid (Pseudotropheus sp. 'kingsizei')

Understand the Blue Gold identity

Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid is the aquarium trade name for this blue-barred Pseudotropheus form. WoRMS lists Pseudotropheus as an accepted genus in the cichlid family Cichlidae. The careful scientific label for this animal is Pseudotropheus sp. ‘kingsizei’, with “sp.” showing that it is identified to genus rather than as a formally named species.

The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Pseudotropheus and its care group.

Wikipedia describes the genus as Lake Malawi mbuna endemic to Eastern Africa. Mbuna are the rock-dwelling side of the Malawi cichlid community, so the aquarium should be designed around rock-associated behaviour rather than as a peaceful planted community.

Choose the dispatch size from the live selector

One purchase quantity supplies one animal of the selected option. Use the live size selector to choose between the labels 2 - 3 cm, 4 - 5 cm, 6 - 7 cm and XL, then choose the quantity required for your aquarium plan. Selector labels describe the animal at dispatch rather than its future dimensions.

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. The centimetre labels are bounded dispatch grades. XL is a named grade without a fixed centimetre range, so it should not be interpreted as a promised measurement, age, life stage or final size.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Some gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. They show the listed type of animal rather than guaranteeing the exact markings of the individual supplied, so natural colour and pattern can vary.

A gallery scene containing two fish shows two animals in that scene only. Calculate the order using one animal for each purchase quantity.

Work through the quantity before checkout

If the aquarium plan calls for three animals, select the preferred size label and set the purchase quantity to three; that supplies three animals from that selected option. Recheck the live selector if changing size, because the quantity and size decisions work together. Base the number on the completed Malawi community plan, usable aquarium volume and filtration capacity rather than on how many fish appear in a gallery scene.

Check the core care numbers before choosing this mbuna

OATA’s African Malawi cichlid guidance gives 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6, general hardness of 12–18°dH and carbonate hardness of 10–15°dKH for the group. Use these as broad planning targets rather than a species-specific optimum.

Ammonia and nitrite must remain at zero mg per litre. Nitrate should not rise more than 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. A filter is essential, and OATA recommends an oversized filter plus strong aeration for the crowded conditions used in managed Malawi communities.

For a reasonable community, start with an aquarium of at least 200 litres. This is a community benchmark rather than permission to add fish without checking usable space, rock displacement, filtration and aggression. OATA says most Malawi cichlids grow to around 10 cm, while some grow up to 25 cm, so treat 10 cm as a broad group norm rather than a promised final length for this trade form.

We rate this fish intermediate because specialised alkaline water, territorial behaviour and community management require more planning than a peaceful general aquarium. Compare those requirements across our African cichlid collection before deciding.

Use a pre-purchase pass or pause check

• Pass: the mature aquarium holds at least 200 litres before allowing for displaced water, and the planned community fits the remaining working volume.
• Pass: measured temperature, pH and hardness sit within the stated Malawi range.
• Pass: ammonia and nitrite both read zero, with filtration and strong aeration running continuously.
• Pause: the aquarium is still cycling, the water is outside the range or no separation plan exists for concentrated aggression.

Check whether this animal suits the aquarium

Build a mature aquarium around rock-dwelling behaviour

Prepare and mature the aquarium before the fish arrives. A new biological filter needs time to establish the bacteria that process fish waste, so adding livestock while the aquarium is still cycling risks toxic ammonia and nitrite. Our first tropical aquarium guide explains how to prepare the system before livestock is introduced.

Make the rockwork safe

Use substantial rockwork to reflect the mbuna’s rock-dwelling behaviour and create several usable areas rather than one dominant feature. Every structure must remain stable when the fish digs and rearranges substrate. Check that rocks cannot shift, trap an animal or place unsafe pressure against the glass.

Malawi cichlids often dig, so expect the substrate to move. Coral sand or a similar substrate can help buffer the water, but the finished aquarium still needs regular testing. Digging will uproot any plants present; treat planting as secondary to safe rockwork, clear routes and reliable water circulation.

Preserve usable water volume

Rock occupies space that would otherwise hold water. Begin with the aquarium’s stated volume, then consider how much is displaced by substrate and stone. A heavily decorated aquarium can therefore have substantially less working water than its label suggests, while still carrying the waste and territorial pressure of the full fish population.

Choose the largest practical aquarium within the household plan. Larger water volume changes temperature and water quality more slowly, while a broader layout gives more scope to distribute decor and territories. The at-least-200-litre figure belongs to a reasonable Malawi community; it is not a shortcut around checking the number, eventual dimensions and behaviour of every resident.

Finish the layout before stocking

• Confirm that all rockwork remains stable after the substrate is disturbed.
• Leave access for removing waste and checking the filter intake.
• Run the filter and aeration continuously.
• Test ammonia and nitrite before adding any fish.
• Plan how decor could be rearranged if established territories create concentrated aggression.

After the first full layout is built, disturb a small area of substrate beside each major rock and check the structure again. This simple test imitates the effect of digging without placing a fish at risk. Then confirm that water can circulate around the rockwork and that a siphon can reach the main debris-collecting areas.

Hold hard alkaline water within the care range

Maintain the aquarium at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6, 12–18°dH general hardness and 10–15°dKH carbonate hardness. These values describe hard, alkaline water. Test the actual aquarium rather than judging chemistry by clarity, because clear water can still contain toxic dissolved waste.

Establish the starting point

Measure both tap water and aquarium water. The tap-water nitrate result provides the baseline for the instruction that aquarium nitrate should not exceed it by more than 20 mg per litre. Recording the readings each week makes a gradual rise easier to recognise than isolated tests.

Use our water chemistry guide to understand temperature, pH, general hardness, carbonate hardness, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The water matcher can then compare measured aquarium values with the care range.

Respond to a poor result

If ammonia or nitrite appears, treat the reading as an immediate water-quality problem. Check stocking pace, feeding, filter operation and maintenance rather than adding more fish. If nitrate repeatedly approaches its limit before the next weekly service, review waste removal, feeding quantity and the aquarium’s biological load.

Treat replacement tap water with a conditioner that removes harmful chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium. Keep the maintenance method repeatable: test, record, change water, recheck when necessary and investigate any trend that moves away from the target range.

Read nitrate against the correct baseline

For example, if tap water measures 10 mg per litre nitrate, keep the aquarium from rising above 30 mg per litre under OATA’s limit. If the tap-water result is 20 mg per litre, the corresponding ceiling is 40 mg per litre. Use the newly measured tap-water value rather than assuming the baseline never changes.

Protect the biological filter and oxygen supply

RSPCA aquarium welfare guidance explains why every fish aquarium needs a well-established and maintained filter. Fish release toxic ammonia; bacteria in the biological filter convert it first to toxic nitrite and then to the safer nitrate measured during routine testing.

Malawi communities place heavy demands on filtration because the aggression-management approach can involve a comparatively dense population. Use an oversized filter and strong aeration, as OATA recommends, while keeping enough open circulation for oxygenated water to reach the occupied areas of the aquarium.

Follow a weekly maintenance cycle

At least once a week, make a 25% partial water change as OATA recommends. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate instead of replacing water alone. Rock gaps can collect debris, so maintain access to practical cleaning points when arranging the aquarium.

Clean without stripping away bacteria

If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap. Chlorine or chloramine may kill the bacterial population that processes ammonia and nitrite. When cleaning is needed, lightly rinse reusable media in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. This reduces bacterial loss while allowing obstructing debris to be removed.

Check flow and aeration every day. A blocked filter or reduced surface movement changes the system’s oxygen and waste-processing capacity even when the aquarium still appears clear. If flow falls, investigate the blockage and service the affected part without replacing all established biological media at once.

Separate daily and weekly decisions

Daily checks should confirm steady filter flow, visible surface movement and normal breathing. The weekly service then combines testing, a 25% partial water change at least once a week, waste removal and a blockage check. Keeping those jobs distinct makes a sudden equipment problem easier to notice instead of waiting for the next planned water change.

Feed the mbuna side of the Malawi diet

Dietary needs vary across Malawi cichlids. OATA distinguishes smaller, more herbivorous mbuna from larger utaka that may require food with more animal content. For this mbuna trade form, use a specialised Malawi cichlid food with a high algae content and include fresh vegetables in the routine.

Use the feeding clock

Feed twice a day and offer only what the fish can consume within a few minutes. The time limit matters because uneaten food breaks down and releases waste into the water. It also provides a repeatable way to adjust portions without relying on guesswork.

A rich feeding response is not a reason to keep adding food. Overfeeding increases uneaten material and fish waste, raising the load placed on the biological filter. Keep the food appropriate to the animal’s mouth size, but do not interpret a dispatch-size label as proof of age or life stage.

Keep the diet decision consistent

Keep this mbuna’s feeding plan centred on high-algae Malawi cichlid food and fresh vegetables. The higher-animal-content foods described for larger utaka serve different dietary requirements within the wider Malawi cichlid group.

Appetite is also a useful daily welfare signal. A sudden reduction in feeding, especially when paired with changed breathing, colour, swimming or aggression, should trigger water testing and a close check of the social situation rather than an automatic increase in food.

Adjust portions from what remains

Begin with a deliberately measured amount at each of the two daily feeds. If food remains after a few minutes, remove the remainder and make the next portion smaller. If one fish misses food while others finish it, observe whether aggression is blocking access before increasing the total amount, because extra leftovers raise waste without necessarily feeding the excluded animal.

Introduce each stocking stage without overloading the system

Confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite before introducing fish. Additions increase waste and feeding, so the filter’s bacterial population must expand to process the greater load. Stocking too quickly can create new tank syndrome, where ammonia or nitrite rises because there are too few nitrifying bacteria for the new waste level.

Prepare for the delivery window

Arrange for someone to receive the parcel because live fish cannot be left unattended. The live delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee page gives the checkout window, tracking process, licensed live-animal courier details and the conditions that apply to a claim.

Start filming before the parcel is opened, with the sealed parcel and outer box visible. Continue in one take while opening it and showing the fish inside the sealed bag. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish. Do not pour transport water into the aquarium.

Plan the social introduction

OATA recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups so that one newcomer does not receive all the aggression while settling. It also recommends introducing more peaceful species before more aggressive ones. Apply that sequence only after checking that the aquarium has the capacity for the planned group.

Increase the total population slowly across the wider stocking plan. “Add in groups” and “stock slowly” work together: introduce a planned batch where social behaviour calls for it, then pause further additions while testing ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and watching the existing fish.

Established Malawi cichlids may already control preferred areas. Rearranging aquarium decor before an introduction can reduce that territorial advantage, but keep every rock stable after the change. Observe the new social pattern closely and be prepared to separate a fish if repeated targeting prevents normal swimming or feeding.

1. Be present to receive the parcel.
2. Start filming with the parcel still sealed and the outer box visible.
3. Open it the same day in one continuous take and show the fish inside the sealed bag.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes.
5. Release the fish without adding transport water to the aquarium.

Set first-day checkpoints

Check the fish immediately after release, again after it has had time to move through the rockwork and once more before the end of the day. Look for steady breathing, controlled swimming and access to shelter. If behaviour changes sharply, test the water and check whether an established resident is repeatedly controlling the same route or refuge.

Act on changes in health or behaviour

Healthy fish should have clear, bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcers or bumps and swimming behaviour appropriate to their aquarium. Use those observations alongside test results; appearance alone cannot show whether ammonia or nitrite is present.

Check the same signals every day

Aggression deserves the same disciplined observation. Short interactions can occur among territorial Malawi cichlids, but repeated cornering, damaged fins, persistent hiding or exclusion from food means pressure is concentrated on one animal. Review the rock layout and group composition, and separate the targeted fish when necessary.

Use water results before choosing a response

Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature whenever normal behaviour changes. Ammonia or nitrite above zero requires prompt water-quality action. Also check the filter for blockage and confirm that aeration remains strong.

During the first week, compare appetite, breathing, colour, swimming and aggression at the same daily checks. Continue the 25% partial water change at least once a week and the test schedule through the first month rather than relaxing the routine after the fish begins feeding.

If an animal develops white spots, fluffy growths, ulcers, loss of fins or scales, marked weight change, persistent abnormal breathing or refusal to feed, test the water and contact us for health guidance. Describe the visible change, the test results and when it began so the next decision addresses the actual pattern.

Keep a short first-month record

Record the weekly water results beside brief notes on appetite, breathing and aggression. A repeated change is easier to recognise when the observations are dated. If one fish becomes progressively more withdrawn or misses several feeds, act on the pattern by checking water, access to shelter and social pressure rather than waiting for obvious injury.

Plan the Malawi community before choosing a group

Malawi cichlids are not social fish in the peaceful shoaling sense. OATA describes them as aggressive and advises mixing them with caution. Its community method uses groups of at least 15 and slight overcrowding to spread aggression, because small Malawi cichlid groups often fight.

Apply that method only in an aquarium with the necessary capacity. A group of at least 15 belongs with the at-least-200-litre community benchmark, oversized filtration, strong aeration, weekly maintenance and enough decor to distribute territories. Slight crowding is an aggression-management technique, not permission to exceed the aquarium’s waste-processing or oxygen capacity.

Plan the whole population

• Count every Malawi cichlid already living in the aquarium.
• Check the working water volume after rock and substrate displacement.
• Confirm that the filter and aeration can support the intended total.
• Add a planned group rather than placing one isolated newcomer into established territories.
• Keep a safe separation option for an animal that is persistently targeted.

Where sexes can later be distinguished, OATA recommends keeping more females than males of each species so one female does not receive all of a male’s attention. Build no promised ratio into the purchase plan because the size choices do not select sex.

Watch the outcome, not just the headcount

The correct quantity therefore comes from a complete Malawi community plan, not from choosing an even number or trying to form a pair. Consider final group capacity before using the selector, and leave room in the plan for behaviour to change as the fish develop.

Test the plan against a realistic failure point

Before choosing the quantity, decide where one persistently targeted fish could be separated safely. Then check whether the remaining aquarium still has adequate filtration, aeration and territory distribution. If the plan works only while every individual behaves predictably, revise the group or aquarium plan before adding animals.

Screen every potential companion before mixing fish

OATA advises keeping Malawi cichlids only with other Malawi cichlids or with some species of Synodontis catfish that also inhabit Lake Malawi. Use that boundary as the first compatibility screen: avoid fish outside a planned Malawi community, apart from a carefully assessed Synodontis species.

Sharing Lake Malawi does not make every combination safe. All Malawi cichlid mixes still require caution because these fish are aggressive, while the aquarium must accommodate the behaviour and total waste load of every resident. Some Synodontis may be considered, but the genus name alone is not an approval for a particular species.

Complete the stocking screen

A companion must fit the 23–27°C temperature range, pH 8.0–8.6, hard water and the physical space left after rockwork. It must also cope with a territorial Malawi community without being used merely to fill a visual gap. Feeding requirements must remain workable without compromising the high-algae Malawi routine used for this mbuna trade form.

Add more peaceful Malawi species before more aggressive species, and rearrange decor when an established hierarchy would place newcomers at a disadvantage. Introduce Malawi cichlids in a planned group where capacity allows, then monitor feeding access, fin condition, hiding and repeated chases.

No named companion is guaranteed to work in every aquarium because individual behaviour and the existing population affect the outcome. Browse the African cichlid collection linked in the overview for comparison, then send us the aquarium volume, water results, existing fish and proposed additions for a stocking assessment.

Compare the candidate with the established aquarium

• Match its required temperature, pH and hardness to the Malawi range.
• Check its adult requirements against the usable space left after decor.
• Decide whether its feeding needs can be met without changing the mbuna routine.
• Assess how it will enter an established territorial layout.
• Reject the combination if there is no safe response to persistent targeting.

Answer the main Blue Gold Mbuna questions

What is the identity of the Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid?

Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid is an aquarium trade form labelled Pseudotropheus sp. ‘kingsizei’. Pseudotropheus is an accepted cichlid genus, while “sp.” means the animal is identified to genus rather than as a named species.

What does one Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid purchase include?

One purchase quantity supplies one animal in the size chosen from the live selector. Quantity two means two animals, while a gallery scene showing two fish does not change the purchase unit.

Which size options can I choose for the Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid?

The selector uses 2 - 3 cm, 4 - 5 cm, 6 - 7 cm and XL dispatch grades. The centimetre bands describe dispatch size; XL has no fixed length, and none of these labels promises the adult size.

What aquarium setup does the Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid need?

OATA’s Malawi guidance recommends an aquarium of at least 200 litres for a reasonable community, with stable rockwork, hard alkaline water, an oversized filter and strong aeration. Account for water displaced by rocks and substrate.

Should the Blue Gold Mbuna Cichlid be kept alone or in a group?

OATA’s Malawi community method uses groups of at least 15 and slight crowding to spread aggression because small groups often fight. Use that method only with sufficient aquarium capacity, filtration, aeration and a separation plan.

What water conditions does it need?

OATA’s Malawi guidance gives 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6, 12–18°dH general hardness and 10–15°dKH carbonate hardness for the group. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero mg per litre and nitrate no more than 20 mg per litre above tap water.

What should this fish eat?

OATA’s Malawi guidance recommends a specialised Malawi cichlid food with a high algae content and fresh vegetables for smaller mbuna. Feed only what the fish consume within a few minutes, twice a day, and remove leftovers that would add waste.

How should it be acclimatised?

Start filming with the parcel still sealed before opening it or floating the bag. Be present to receive it, continue filming as it is opened and the fish is shown inside the sealed bag, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release and do not pour transport water into the aquarium.

Which companions can live with this fish?

Consider carefully screened Malawi cichlids or some suitable Synodontis species. Avoid fish outside that boundary, and assess hard-water needs, aggression, adult requirements, usable space and the existing population before combining animals.

Read the identity and welfare references