Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid (Pseudotropheus sp. 'Red Top Ndumbi') – Multiple Sizes

Understand the Red Top Ndumbi before planning its aquarium

The Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid (Pseudotropheus sp. 'Red Top Ndumbi') is a mbuna cichlid from Lake Malawi in Eastern Africa. WoRMS places Pseudotropheus in the family Cichlidae, while Wikipedia describes members of the genus as Lake Malawi endemics. This fish suits an intermediate keeper prepared to build a dedicated Malawi community around hard alkaline water, strong filtration and active aggression management.

Keep the aquarium at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18°dH. OATA’s African Malawi cichlid guidance gives these group planning values, together with carbonate hardness of 10–15°dkH. It also sets ammonia and nitrite at zero and says nitrate should not exceed 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. These figures belong together as a stable Malawi-water plan rather than isolated targets.

Mbuna are rock-dwelling fish, so usable structure matters alongside water volume. OATA recommends an aquarium of at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized Malawi community and advises choosing as large an aquarium as practical. Secure rocks, caves, broken sightlines and open routes allow fish to move around defended areas, while coral sand or a similar substrate helps buffer the water.

Malawi cichlids are all aggressive and should be mixed with caution, although they are otherwise usually undemanding aquarium fish. The intermediate care assessment reflects the decisions needed before purchase: establishing the biological filter, measuring hard alkaline water, planning the complete community and providing a response when one fish is persistently harassed.

Choose a dispatch size without treating it as an adult measurement

One purchase supplies one Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid in the size selected. The live selector lists 4–5 cm, 5–6 cm and XL. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. XL is a dispatch size, not an adult length, and no size label shows the sex, maturity or eventual colour of the fish supplied.

The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Pseudotropheus and its care group. Plan the permanent aquarium around the complete Malawi community rather than using the dispatch measurement to justify temporary housing. OATA’s at-least-200-litre recommendation applies to a reasonable-sized Malawi community, while the final footprint, rock arrangement, filtration and stocking assessment must work together.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Ordering several fish changes the number supplied, not the mix of males and females. OATA notes that many Malawi cichlids only show differences between the sexes once they become adults, not as juveniles, and advises keeping more females than males of each species where possible to prevent males from harassing one individual female. Plan the balance of males and females only once the fish are adult enough to show their sex, never from a size label or the colours shown in the gallery.

Some gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. They show the listed type of animal rather than guaranteeing the exact markings of the individual supplied, so natural colour and pattern can vary.

Check the offer in the right order

1. Confirm that the permanent aquarium follows the Malawi community guidance.
2. Check measured temperature, pH, hardness, ammonia and nitrite.
3. Assess the complete community and how aggression will be distributed.
4. Choose 4–5 cm, 5–6 cm or XL as the dispatch size.
5. Set the purchase quantity only after deciding how every fish fits the community plan.

This order keeps the welfare decision ahead of appearance. A larger dispatch size does not remove the need for a mature filter, compatible water, secure structure or close observation during introduction.

Build the permanent aquarium around rock-dwelling behaviour

Use at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized Malawi community and choose a larger aquarium where practical. Plan the aquarium and companions for the mature Malawi community rather than the size supplied. Greater water volume makes temperature and water quality more stable, but volume cannot replace a sensible footprint, secure structure or a workable social plan.

Create several rocky areas rather than one feature that a single fish can control. OATA identifies mbuna as rock-dwelling species, so build rocks and caves that give every fish hiding places and room to hold a territory. Leave routes around the structures so a fish moving away from another is not repeatedly forced back through the same defended space.

Make the structure safe

• Set rocks securely because Malawi cichlids will often dig and rearrange the substrate.
• Use caves and separated rock faces to interrupt direct views across the aquarium.
• Keep enough open water for fish to move between structured areas.
• Use coral sand or a similar substrate to help buffer the water.
• Check that digging has not made the rockwork unstable during routine maintenance.

Plants are not the foundation of this layout. OATA states that Malawi cichlids will often dig and rearrange the substrate, which will uproot any plants present. Use only the hardiest plants that grow attached to décor, because digging will uproot any plants rooted in the substrate. Choose plants as optional additions after the rockwork, swimming routes and filtration have been settled.

Browse the African cichlid collection to compare other fish during planning, but treat every product as a separate care and compatibility decision. Sharing a retail category does not make two fish suitable companions.

Before adding livestock, mature the aquarium and test it under the expected conditions. The first tropical aquarium guide explains how to prepare the system before fish arrive. A working layout is one in which water remains stable, every fish can reach open water and shelter, and routine maintenance can be completed without undermining the rock structure.

Hold stable Malawi water values instead of chasing individual readings

Keep the water at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and general hardness of 12–18°dH, with carbonate hardness at 10–15°dkH. OATA gives these values as broad guidance for African Malawi cichlids. Measure all four before introducing the fish because a temperature reading alone says nothing about whether the aquarium has the hard, alkaline and buffered conditions this group requires.

Test the source water as well as the aquarium. That comparison shows whether a water change is likely to alter pH or hardness and provides the baseline needed for OATA’s nitrate limit. Use the aquarium water chemistry guide to understand what each test measures, then enter the actual readings in the water matcher to compare them with the Malawi guidance.

Focus on consistency across repeated tests. If temperature, pH or hardness moves outside the working range, check the test method, source water, buffering substrate and recent maintenance before adjusting the aquarium, and treat any ammonia reading above zero as a warning, because Malawi cichlids can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia. Replacement water should be prepared with tap-water conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before it enters the tank.

Record temperature, pH, GH, KH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate together. A simple weekly record reveals gradual movement that may be missed when each result is considered separately. It also helps connect a behavioural change with a measurable water-quality change rather than judging the fish only by colour or activity.

Protect the biological filter from every increase in waste

Run a well-established filter continuously and keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/l. The RSPCA explains that biological filtration supports bacteria that convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate. Clear water is not a substitute for those measurements, so test the aquarium rather than judging filtration by appearance.

OATA recommends an oversized filter for crowded Malawi communities and aggressive aeration to keep enough dissolved oxygen in the water. Choose equipment that can move and treat the aquarium’s water while remaining accessible for blockage checks. Maintain continuous surface movement and inspect flow whenever fish behaviour changes or the filter sounds different.

Add biological load gradually

Increase fish numbers slowly. OATA warns that the beneficial bacterial population established while the filter matures must increase when more fish are added and feeding rises. Adding too many fish too quickly can cause new tank syndrome, with ammonia and nitrite reaching levels that may make fish ill or kill them.

• Test ammonia and nitrite before each planned addition.
• Add fish according to the complete stocking plan rather than filling every territory at once.
• Continue testing after feeding and waste increase.
• Pause further additions if ammonia or nitrite rises above zero.
• Check the filter for blockages during the same inspection.

When filter media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during a partial water change. Do not run it under the tap. OATA gives this instruction because chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacterial population established in the media.

Filtration, aeration and stocking density are linked decisions. A social plan that places more fish in the aquarium also raises oxygen demand, food input and waste production. Confirm that the filter remains effective after each increase instead of assuming its performance is fixed.

Feed an mbuna diet in small, controlled portions

Use a specialised Malawi cichlid feed with a high algae content together with fresh vegetables. OATA describes smaller mbuna as more herbivorous and gives this feeding approach for the group. Red Top Ndumbi is a Pseudotropheus mbuna, so follow this feeding plan for routine care.

Feed only what the fish can eat within a few minutes, twice a day. Keep the time limit attached to every feed: a portion that remains after several minutes is too large even if the fish appeared eager at the start. Remove the cause of recurring leftovers by reducing the next portion rather than allowing food to break down in the aquarium.

Check access as well as appetite

• Watch whether every fish reaches food during the short feeding period.
• Notice if one fish controls the feeding area and repeatedly drives another away.
• Check for reduced intake or a complete loss of interest in food.
• Review the portion whenever nitrate rises or uneaten food is visible.
• Keep the staple aligned with OATA’s high-algae mbuna guidance.

Overfeeding creates a second problem beyond excess intake. OATA warns that uneaten food breaks down and releases toxic waste into the water. The result can undermine ammonia, nitrite and nitrate control while adding more work for the filter.

Judge the feeding plan over repeated meals. A fish that eats during one feed may still be losing access at others, while a dominant fish may take more than its share. Compare food intake with body condition, behaviour and weekly water tests. Reduced feeding interest belongs in the same welfare check as unusual swimming, breathing or hiding.

Do not use appetite alone as a reason to increase the daily total. Keep two measured feeds, each limited to what is consumed within a few minutes, and adjust the quantity from observed consumption and water quality.

Complete maintenance on a measured weekly routine

At least once every week, change 25% of the water. OATA strongly recommends this 25% partial water change at least once every week, and a siphon is useful for removing solid waste from the substrate. Prepare replacement water with tap-water conditioner before adding it to the aquarium.

Test the water at least once per week. Record ammonia, nitrite and nitrate alongside temperature, pH and hardness so a result can be interpreted in context. Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero, while nitrate should not exceed 20 mg/l above the normal tap-water level.

Use one repeatable sequence

1. Test and record the aquarium water before disturbing the tank.
2. Inspect swimming, breathing, feeding response and aggression.
3. Siphon solid waste while removing 25% of the water.
4. Check the filter for blockages.
5. Rinse filter media lightly in removed tank water when cleaning is needed.
6. Add conditioned replacement water prepared for the aquarium.
7. Recheck equipment flow and the stability of any rocks affected by digging.

Avoid turning routine maintenance into a complete reset. The filter’s bacterial population supports waste processing, so protect it from tap water. The rockwork also forms territories and hiding places; inspect it for safety without casually removing every refuge.

Use the weekly record to decide whether the present routine controls waste. A rising nitrate trend, recurring debris or reduced filter flow calls for a review of feeding, stocking load and equipment condition. Do not respond by adding fish or food while ammonia or nitrite is detectable.

Regular measurements also make changes easier to interpret. When a fish hides more, becomes unusually aggressive or loses interest in food, the latest results provide an immediate water-quality check rather than relying on guesswork.

Introduce fish only after the aquarium passes its checks

Confirm that ammonia and nitrite are both 0 mg/l before adding the fish. Check that temperature, pH and hardness are within the Malawi ranges and that the filter, aeration and rock layout are functioning as planned. OATA advises increasing fish numbers slowly because filtration bacteria must respond to the extra waste and feeding.

For the social introduction, OATA recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups so one newcomer does not receive all the aggression while settling in. It also advises adding more peaceful species first and more aggressive species later. Apply these points only within a complete Malawi stocking plan; they do not turn an otherwise unsuitable companion into a suitable one.

Rearranging aquarium décor may help reduce aggression by making fish establish new territories. Use that step deliberately, preserve secure caves and confirm that every rock remains stable after the change. Continue observing access to food and shelter once the fish enter the community.

Follow the arrival procedure

1. Receive the parcel in person and start continuous filming while it is still sealed with the outer box visible, before opening it.
2. Open and inspect the parcel on the day it arrives while continuing the same unboxing take.
3. Show the fish inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

The delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy explains the packing and claim conditions. Fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen and placed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel, and live fish cannot be left unattended.

For a Live Arrival Guarantee claim, send the order number and continuous unboxing video on the same day. The video must show the sealed parcel, the opening and the fish still inside the sealed bag before release.

Respond early when behaviour, breathing or condition changes

Observe the fish every day during feeding and during a quieter pass across the aquarium. OATA lists changes in swimming, colour, temperament, breathing, appearance, condition and feeding as useful early warnings. The value lies in noticing a change from the fish’s usual pattern rather than waiting for several problems to appear together.

Start with water testing because ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, temperature and pH affect the whole aquarium. Restore the husbandry routine by addressing the measured cause, checking equipment and preventing further stocking while results are outside the working values.

Behaviour also needs a social check. A fish that hides more than normal, cannot reach food or receives repeated aggression needs an immediate review of the group and territory layout. Rearranging décor may reduce aggression, but continue watching after the change rather than assuming the relationship has settled.

Do not select a treatment from one visual sign. Test the water as soon as you are concerned about a fish’s health, and record the timing, affected fish, water results, feeding response and behaviour.

Plan the whole Malawi group instead of buying a casual pair

Treat Red Top Ndumbi as part of an aggressive Malawi community, not as a peaceful pair fish. OATA says Malawi cichlids are not social fish and can be highly aggressive, but they can be kept in groups of at least 15 and slightly overcrowded to limit aggression. It also warns that Malawi cichlids kept in small groups will often fight.

The group figure describes the Malawi community plan; it is not an instruction to buy 15 Red Top Ndumbi Cichlids. Decide which Malawi cichlids make up the group, how their aggression will interact, how the aquarium will provide territories and whether filtration and aeration can support the resulting load. Use at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized community and choose a larger aquarium where practical.

Build the social plan step by step

1. List every fish intended for the permanent Malawi community.
2. Confirm that each one fits the same temperature, pH and hardness plan.
3. Assess aggression before deciding the total group.
4. Provide multiple rock territories, caves and broken sightlines.
5. Size the filtration and aeration for the complete stocking load.
6. Add fish in planned groups and observe how attention is distributed.
7. Rearrange décor if territories need to be reset.

Where possible, OATA advises keeping more females than males of each species so one female is not continually harassed. This offer carries no sex guarantee, so purchase quantity cannot create that ratio. A two-fish order is simply two animals of the chosen dispatch size, not a confirmed male and female or a socially compatible pair.

OATA states that a slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly throughout the population, which is why it recommends an oversized filter and aggressive aeration for Malawi communities. More fish bring more waste and oxygen demand. Increase numbers slowly, maintain ammonia and nitrite at zero and stop further additions if filtration does not keep pace.

Screen every companion against the Malawi-only rule

Keep this fish only with other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis catfish after a full compatibility assessment. OATA gives that boundary for Malawi cichlids and notes that the relevant Synodontis also naturally inhabit Lake Malawi. Avoid fish outside those categories rather than attempting a general mixed tropical community.

Shared origin is only the first screening step. Every proposed Malawi cichlid must fit the hard alkaline water, final community size, feeding plan and level of aggression. Some species may be more peaceful than others, which is why OATA advises adding the more peaceful species first and the more aggressive species later.

A Synodontis plan also needs an exact species assessment. OATA supports only some species as companions, so the genus name alone is not enough to approve a catfish. Check that its own water, social and space needs fit the completed aquarium before including it.

No list can remove individual uncertainty. Watch whether every fish can leave a defended area, reach food and use shelter. A change in aggression or hiding belongs in the daily welfare check, while damaged fins or scales require prompt action.

Related products are comparison choices rather than endorsed companions. Use the compatibility screen on each animal independently and judge the proposed combination as one complete community before adding it to the aquarium.

Get clear answers to common Red Top Ndumbi questions

How big does the Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid get?

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Plan the aquarium and companions for the mature Malawi community rather than the size supplied: use at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized community and choose as large an aquarium as practical.

What size aquarium does the Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid need?

Use at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized Malawi community. OATA gives this as group guidance, advises buying as large an aquarium as possible within reason and recommends an oversized filter with aggressive aeration; add secure rocks and caves for shelter and territories.

How many Red Top Ndumbi Cichlids should I keep?

Plan the number across the complete Malawi community rather than for this fish alone. OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and slightly overcrowded to limit aggression, that a slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly, and that small groups will often fight.

Is the Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid suitable for beginners?

We rate it intermediate. OATA describes Malawi cichlids as aggressive fish that should be mixed with caution and as a specialised group that requires particular water parameters, although otherwise usually undemanding, so the keeper must manage 23–27°C hard alkaline water, mature filtration, group planning and territorial behaviour.

What does the Red Top Ndumbi Cichlid eat?

Use OATA’s mbuna feeding guidance: specialised Malawi cichlid food with a high algae content and fresh vegetables. Feed only what it can eat within a few minutes, twice a day, and reduce portions if food remains.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 23–27°C and pH 8.0–8.6. OATA’s Malawi group guidance also gives general hardness of 12–18°dH, carbonate hardness of 10–15°dkH, and ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/l.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to damage fins?

It belongs to an aggressive Malawi cichlid group. Watch for increased chasing, hiding, lost fins or scales, and review the territories and stocking plan promptly when one fish cannot move, shelter or feed normally.

Which animals can it live with?

Keep it only with other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis after assessing water, aggression and the complete community. Avoid other fish categories and small, casually assembled Malawi groups.

How does it arrive alive in the UK?

Film every delivery in one continuous take, starting with the sealed parcel and outer box visible and continuing through the opening until the fish is shown still inside its sealed bag; someone must be at the address to receive the parcel, open and inspect it the same day, float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release and never pour the bag water into the aquarium. Tropical Fish Co’s policy says fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen, placed in an insulated poly box and carried by a licensed live-animal courier, with a heat pack when weather calls for it.

Check the public identity, care and welfare references

• WoRMS: Pseudotropheus — accepted genus and family placement.
• Wikipedia: Pseudotropheus — genus-level Lake Malawi distribution and mbuna context.
• OATA: African Malawi cichlids — group water, aquarium, feeding, maintenance and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance — biological filtration and waste processing.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy — packing, receipt, acclimatisation and claim procedure.