Red Johanni Cichlid (Pseudotropheus johannii)

Red Johanni Cichlid at a glance

The Red Johanni Cichlid is a rock-dwelling cichlid from Lake Malawi, supplied here in its red-orange trade form. It is a busy, territorial fish that belongs in a hard-water Malawi aquarium built from rock, sand and plenty of company of the right kind. One purchase is one live fish of the size you select, from 3–4 cm to 6–7 cm, and every size grows on into an assertive adult that needs room, rockwork and a well-planned group.

One fish, two scientific names

FishBase lists this species as Pseudotropheus johannii, and treats Melanochromis johanni, the name still used by many retailers and by Seriously Fish, as a synonym. Both names refer to the same animal, so care information published under either name applies. FishBase records it as endemic to Lake Malawi, where it occurs at Masinje Rocks and Cape Ngombo, living in rocky habitats along the shoreline. It is assessed as Least Concern on the IUCN Red List.

In the aquarium trade it sits among the mbuna, the rock-dwelling group that OATA, the UK ornamental fish trade body, separates from the open-water utaka. OATA also notes that the majority of Malawi cichlids in the trade are captive bred.

Sizes and sexes

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. All three sizes are young fish with growing still to do, and FishBase's 10 cm total length and Seriously Fish's 12 cm standard length both describe grown adults.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Melanochromis johanni red listing has no sex-guaranteed option. According to Seriously Fish, adult males of the species are blue-black with bright blue striping, females are orange and males tend to be slightly larger. OATA adds that many Malawi cichlids only show their sex differences once they become adults, not as juveniles. Red Johanni is a trade name for colour, so an orange young fish should not be read as a female.

The photograph

The gallery image shows a red-orange fish with pale speckling along its scale rows and yellow-orange fins, swimming above pale sand in front of slender green plant stems. Gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. Natural colour, pattern, size and maturity can vary between live animals. The plants are part of the photographic setting rather than a planting suggestion, as the care notes explain.

Is this the right fish for your tank?

A Red Johanni does best when the whole aquarium is planned around Lake Malawi fish. Before buying, check that you can say yes to each of these:

• A tank with a base of at least 90 × 45 cm, and 200 litres or more if it will house a mixed Malawi community.
• Hard, alkaline water around pH 8.0–8.6 that you can hold steady from week to week.
• Rockwork covering much of the tank, with caves and small open areas between them.
• A group of Malawi cichlids large enough to be kept slightly crowded, with more females than males.
• A 25% water change every week and a filter big enough for a well-stocked tank.

Set up that way, the Red Johanni rewards you with constant activity among the rocks and a warm red-orange colour that stands out against grey stone and pale sand. To compare other rock-dwelling species for a Malawi community, browse our African cichlid collection.

Building a rock-and-sand Malawi aquarium

Seriously Fish describes the ideal home plainly: much of the aquarium should contain piles of rocks arranged to form caves, with small areas of open water between them. A sandy substrate is best and the water should be well oxygenated. That rock-and-sand layout is what lets each fish claim a patch of territory and gives weaker fish a way out of sight when a dominant one comes by.

How big a tank

Because sex cannot be chosen when you buy young fish, it is wise to plan for the possibility of more than one male. OATA's general advice also applies: buy as large an aquarium as you reasonably can, because the larger it is, the more stable temperature and water quality will be.

Rock, sand and plants

• Rockwork: build caves and overhangs from stable piles of rock across most of the tank, leaving small open areas between them.
• Substrate: sand is best. OATA recommends coral sand or a similar substrate, which helps buffer the water towards the hard, alkaline conditions these fish need.
• Digging: OATA notes that Malawi cichlids will often dig and rearrange the substrate, which will uproot any plants present, so bed the rockwork securely.
• Plants: Seriously Fish advises against plants for this species because they will be eaten, and OATA suggests only the hardiest plants in any Malawi tank.

Filtration, aeration and heating

Malawi communities are kept slightly crowded, so OATA recommends an oversized filter and vigorous aeration to keep enough dissolved oxygen in the water. The RSPCA's advice on the aquarium environment explains why filtration matters: fish release ammonia, which is toxic, and a working biological filter lets beneficial bacteria convert it to nitrite, also toxic, and then to nitrate, which is safer.

For its 154-litre example tank, Seriously Fish suggests a filter rated at 615–770 litres per hour, a turnover of four to five times the volume each hour, and a heater of roughly 150–200 W to hold 23–27 °C in a room of around 20 °C. Scale those figures up for a larger aquarium.

Before the fish arrive

Set up the rockwork, fill the tank, and run the filter until it has matured and ammonia and nitrite both read zero. Our guide to setting up a tropical tank covers the equipment, filling and filter maturation in order, and the same steps apply to a Malawi aquarium before any fish are added.

Hard, alkaline water

Lake Malawi fish need hard, alkaline water, and that is what sets a Malawi tank apart from a typical soft-water community aquarium. OATA's care sheet for Malawi cichlids describes them as a specialised group that require particular water parameters, and advises checking species-specific needs as well as the group guide. Here the species profile from Seriously Fish and OATA's group sheet agree well:

The working target

The practical target is the ground both sources share: 23–27 °C, pH 8.0–8.6 and general hardness of 12–18 °dH. Staying in that overlap keeps you inside the species profile and the group guidance at the same time. Stability matters as much as the exact figure, so settle on values within the range and hold them there.

The wild record

FishBase lists a tropical range of 22–25 °C, a pH of 8.0 and hardness of 9–19 dH for the species. Those figures describe its natural habitat in the lake rather than an aquarium target, but they confirm the same picture of warm, hard, alkaline water.

Nitrate is measured against your tap

OATA's nitrate limit is not an absolute figure: it is no more than 20 mg per litre above normal tap water levels. Test your tap water for nitrate once, so you know the baseline, and then compare the aquarium reading with it. If the gap keeps widening between changes, the tank needs larger or more frequent water changes, or fewer fish.

Testing your supply

Tap water varies widely from one area to another, so test your own supply for pH, general hardness and carbonate hardness before you plan the tank. Our guide to aquarium water parameters explains what each reading means, and the water parameter matcher lets you set your results against target values. Coral sand or a similar buffering substrate, as OATA suggests, helps keep pH and hardness up between water changes.

OATA also points out that good husbandry is essential because Malawi cichlids can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia. In a crowded rock tank, that makes regular testing part of the routine rather than something saved for when problems appear.

A plant-rich diet

FishBase describes the species as omnivorous, feeding on both plant and animal matter in the wild. Seriously Fish says it will accept most foods offered, but that vegetable matter should form a large proportion of the diet, supplemented with live and frozen varieties. OATA's Malawi sheet points the same way for the smaller mbuna, describing them as more herbivorous fish that appreciate specialised Malawi cichlid feeds with a high algae content, along with fresh vegetables.

• Everyday food: a quality dried food and an algae-based food, such as spirulina flakes or a Malawi cichlid feed with a high algae content.
• Vegetables: blanched spinach and other fresh vegetables, as both Seriously Fish and OATA suggest.
• Supplements: live and frozen foods, offered as extras rather than the bulk of the diet.
• Amount and frequency: only what the fish can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.

Avoiding waste

Take care not to overfeed. OATA warns that uneaten food breaks down and releases toxic waste into the water, and a crowded Malawi tank has little room for that. Watch the whole feed, clear leftovers from among the rocks with a siphon, and cut back if food is still drifting after a few minutes.

Feeding a busy group

In a group of territorial fish, a dominant individual can crowd others away from food. Spreading food across the surface rather than dropping it in one spot helps every fish get a share, and feeding time is a good daily moment to check that each fish is eating. OATA lists reduced intake or lack of interest in food among the early signs of a problem, so a fish that stops coming forward deserves a closer look.

Weekly upkeep for a busy tank

A slightly overcrowded, well-fed Malawi aquarium produces plenty of waste, so the weekly routine carries more weight here than in a lightly stocked tank. OATA strongly recommends a partial water change of 25% at least once every week, with a siphon to lift solid waste from the substrate.

Each week

1. Test for ammonia and nitrite, at least once a week; both should read zero.
2. Siphon waste from the sand and from the gaps around the rockwork during the 25% change.
3. Treat all replacement water with tap water conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before it goes in.
4. Bring the new water close to the aquarium temperature and check that pH and hardness still sit in the working range.
5. Check the filter for blockages, and the air supply for steady bubbling.

Filter care

If the filter needs cleaning, rinse the media lightly in tank water removed during the water change. Do not run it under the tap: any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacteria established in the media. Rinsing in tank water reduces the number of bacteria lost, which matters in a tank that relies on an oversized filter to cope with its stocking.

Rearranging the rocks

OATA notes that rearranging the aquarium décor can help reduce aggression as fish find new territories. If one fish is being singled out, moving a few rocks during a water change resets the boundaries. Make sure every rock sits firmly on the base afterwards, since these fish will often dig beneath loose stones.

Arrival and introduction

Before you order, check with us that your aquarium is an appropriate size for the number of Malawi cichlids you want to keep, and confirm that ammonia and nitrite both read zero. OATA advises building numbers slowly: the bacteria in a matured filter must increase every time fish are added and feeding goes up. Overstocking or stocking too quickly can lead to new tank syndrome, when there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the extra waste, ammonia and nitrite reach unhealthy levels, and this may cause fish to become ill or die.

Packing and delivery

Our team hand-packs every order. Fish are bagged in pure oxygen inside an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and a licensed live-animal courier carries the tracked parcel. We email the tracking number and your confirmed delivery date so you know when to be in; live fish cannot be left unattended. The full terms are on our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee page.

Unpacking step by step

1. Be at the delivery address to receive the parcel on the confirmed date.
2. Record one continuous unboxing video as you open the parcel on the day it arrives: show it still sealed with the outer box in view, open it in one take and show the fish inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
3. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 20–30 minutes so the fish acclimatise slowly.
4. Release the fish into the aquarium, and never pour the bag water into your tank.
5. If anything has gone wrong, contact us the same day, by WhatsApp for the quickest reply, with your order number and the video so we can arrange a replacement or refund.

Introducing them to a Malawi community

OATA's advice on stocking is specific to these cichlids. Add Malawi cichlids in groups, so that no single fish receives all the attention as it settles in. Add the more peaceful species first and the more aggressive ones later. If you are adding Red Johanni to an established tank, rearranging some of the rockwork at the same time gives everyone new territories to sort out rather than letting residents defend old ones.

Health and warning signs

OATA describes healthy fish as having clear, bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcerations or bumps, and appropriate swimming behaviour. Check new arrivals against that description, and keep using it as a quick daily scan.

Changes worth noticing

All fish vary a little in behaviour and appearance, but OATA lists the changes below as ones that help identify a problem before it becomes a real health issue:

• Swimming: hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or swimming erratically.
• Colour: turning darker or paler than normal.
• Temperament: a change in the level of aggression, or hiding more than normal.
• Breathing: gill covers moving slower or faster than normal.
• Appearance: white spots, fluffy growths, or loss of fins or scales.
• Condition: a gain or loss in body weight.
• Feeding: eating less or losing interest in food.

Aggression or illness?

In a territorial species, torn fins, missing scales or a fish that hides constantly can be signs of a fish being picked on, not only of disease. Look at the group before anything else: whether one fish is under constant pressure, whether there is enough rockwork, and whether the balance of males and females has shifted as the fish mature. Then test the water, as OATA advises for any health concern, and contact us with your results if you would like help.

Long-term care

OATA says Malawi cichlids can live several years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality. Steady hard, alkaline water, a plant-rich diet, secure rockwork and a group large enough to spread aggression are the foundations.

Choosing between the three sizes

Red Johanni are offered at 3–4 cm, 4–5 cm and 6–7 cm. All three are young fish, well short of FishBase's 10 cm total length or Seriously Fish's 12 cm standard length for adults, so every size needs the same finished Malawi set-up from the day it arrives.

• 3–4 cm: the smallest and youngest; the longest period of growing on at home and the most time before sex differences appear.
• 4–5 cm: a step further on, and a useful middle ground when you are building a group.
• 6–7 cm: larger young fish, closer to the size of established Malawi cichlids they may be joining.

Matching sizes within a community

Seriously Fish's companion advice is built on similarly sized fish, and OATA recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups so that no single fish takes all the attention as it settles. Choosing one size for your Red Johanni, close to the size of any Malawi cichlids already in the tank, puts both pieces of advice into practice. A lone small newcomer among bigger residents is the situation to avoid.

Buying enough fish

Because young fish cannot be sexed reliably and one purchase is one fish, buy the number you need for a proper group rather than a pair or trio. That gives the best chance of ending up with more females than males as the fish mature, which is the balance both OATA and Seriously Fish recommend.

Breeding behaviour

Seriously Fish describes breeding as relatively easy. The species is a maternal mouthbrooder: the female carries the eggs in her mouth. Whether or not you plan to breed, it helps to recognise the behaviour, because a spawning male's pursuit of females can explain a sudden rise in chasing.

What spawning looks like

The male cleans and then displays around a chosen spawning site, showing intense colour, and tries to entice females to spawn with him. He can be quite aggressive in his pursuit. When a female is willing, she approaches the site and lays her eggs there, then immediately picks them up in her mouth.

Seriously Fish's breeding set-up

• A species tank holding a harem of one male and at least three females, which spreads the male's attention.
• An aquarium of about 90 cm (36 inches), furnished with rock caves plus some flat stones and open areas of substrate as spawning sites.
• pH around 8.2–8.5 and a temperature of 25–26.5 °C.
• Conditioning with plenty of live, frozen and vegetable foods.

Because the sex of young fish cannot be chosen, anyone hoping to breed Red Johanni is best starting with a group and letting the fish mature before deciding how to arrange them.

Managing aggression in a Malawi group

Seriously Fish calls this species quite aggressive, while noting that the aggression is not as pronounced as in most other Melanochromis species. OATA goes further for Malawi cichlids as a whole: they are all aggressive, should be mixed with caution and are not social fish. Good planning turns that temperament into lively, manageable behaviour.

Group size and crowding

OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and slightly overcrowded to limit aggression, because Malawi cichlids kept in small groups will often fight. Seriously Fish gives the same advice for this species in a mbuna community: the tank should be overcrowded to reduce aggression and territory formation. Crowding spreads attention, so no single fish carries the full weight of a dominant male's displays.

Males and females

• Seriously Fish notes that males are aggressive and territorial towards their own kind, and that a large tank is required if more than one male is to be kept.
• Several females should be kept per male, and OATA also recommends more females than males of each species so that no single female is harassed.
• Juveniles often show no clear sex differences, so a group bought young may mature into an uneven ratio. Plan the tank and the rockwork with room to adjust.

Reading the tank

Chasing and display are normal in a mbuna tank. The warning signs are one fish hiding all the time, a fish with damaged fins, or a fish that no longer comes to feed. When that happens, add rockwork, rearrange territories or reconsider the balance of fish rather than waiting for it to settle on its own.

Choosing companions

OATA is clear about companions: Malawi cichlids should only be kept with other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis catfish that also live naturally in Lake Malawi. Within that rule, Seriously Fish says this species can be housed with similarly sized mbuna and even with similarly sized peaceful species such as Aulonocara.

Good choices

• Other mbuna of a similar size that share the same hard, alkaline water.
• Similarly sized peaceful Malawi cichlids such as Aulonocara, in a well-stocked tank with plenty of rockwork.
• Some Synodontis catfish species from Lake Malawi, chosen with their own size and needs in mind.

What to leave out

• Other Melanochromis species. Seriously Fish warns against keeping them together because they may hybridise, and it names the similar M. cyaneorhabdos, which can be told apart by the black colouring of dominant male johanni.
• Fish from outside Lake Malawi, other than the Synodontis catfish mentioned above.
• Any fish that needs soft or acidic water.

A simple stocking plan

1. Decide the tank size first, then list only Lake Malawi species, or Malawi Synodontis, that suit the same hard, alkaline water.
2. Choose species of similar adult size, and leave out every other Melanochromis.
3. Plan each species as a group, with more females than males where the sexes can be told apart.
4. Aim for a slightly crowded community overall, backed by an oversized filter and strong aeration.
5. Stock in stages, letting the filter catch up after each addition.

Order of introduction

OATA recommends adding the more peaceful species first and the more aggressive species later, and always adding Malawi cichlids in groups. Planning the whole stocking list in advance, rather than adding single fish as they catch your eye, keeps aggression spread evenly across the community.

Red Johanni Cichlid questions

How big does a Red Johanni Cichlid get?

FishBase records a maximum of 10 cm in total length, while Seriously Fish gives 12 cm in standard length, measured from the snout to the base of the tail. Plan the aquarium around the larger figure; males also tend to be slightly larger than females.

What size aquarium do they need?

Seriously Fish gives a minimum tank base of 90 × 45 cm, about 154 litres, for the species. OATA recommends an aquarium of at least 200 litres for a reasonable sized Malawi cichlid community, and a large tank is needed if more than one male is kept, so most keepers are better served by the bigger option.

How many Red Johanni Cichlids should I keep together?

Keep them as part of a lively group, never singly or as a pair. OATA's guidance for Malawi cichlids is a group of at least 15, slightly overcrowded, because small groups will often fight, and Seriously Fish advises several females for every male.

Is it a good cichlid for beginners?

It suits a keeper who has planned a proper Lake Malawi set-up. OATA describes Malawi cichlids as usually undemanding and easy to keep in the right water, but also as aggressive fish to be mixed with caution, which is why we rate the Red Johanni Cichlid as intermediate.

What does a Red Johanni Cichlid eat?

FishBase describes it as omnivorous, feeding on both plant and animal matter. Seriously Fish says vegetable matter such as spirulina flakes and blanched spinach should form a large proportion of the diet, with live and frozen foods as a supplement. Feed only what the fish eat within a few minutes, twice a day.

What temperature and pH do Red Johanni Cichlids need?

Seriously Fish gives 23–27 °C, pH 7.6–8.8 and 10–25 dGH for the species, and OATA's broad Malawi cichlid guidance is 23–27 °C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18 °dH general hardness. Aim for the ground both share: warm, hard, alkaline water held steady.

Are Red Johanni Cichlids aggressive?

Yes. Seriously Fish calls the species quite aggressive, though less so than most other Melanochromis, and notes that males are aggressive and territorial towards their own kind. Plenty of rockwork, a slightly overcrowded group and more females than males keep that aggression spread out.

Which fish can live with a Red Johanni Cichlid?

OATA advises keeping Malawi cichlids only with other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis catfish that also live in the lake. Seriously Fish adds similarly sized mbuna and similarly sized peaceful species such as Aulonocara. Do not keep it with other Melanochromis species, as they may hybridise.

How does a Red Johanni Cichlid arrive alive in the UK?

Our team hand-packs each order, bagging the fish in pure oxygen inside an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and a licensed live-animal courier brings it on your confirmed date. Be there to receive it, open it the same day while recording one continuous unboxing video, and float the sealed bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish. That video is needed for any Live Arrival Guarantee claim.

Sources and further reading

• FishBase: Pseudotropheus johannii. Accepted name and synonym, family, native range, wild habitat, water values, diet and maximum recorded length.
• Seriously Fish: Melanochromis johanni. Species profile covering tank size, water conditions, diet, behaviour, sexing and breeding.
• OATA: How to look after African Malawi cichlids. UK trade-body care sheet for Malawi cichlids as a group, including water, aquarium, maintenance, feeding and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA: fish environment. General welfare guidance on filtration and the nitrogen cycle.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy, linked in the arrival notes, for packing, courier and claim terms.