Red Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara sp. Red)

Choose it for a planned Malawi community

The Red Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara sp. Red) is a live freshwater haplochromine cichlid for a hard, alkaline Lake Malawi aquarium. Wikipedia describes Aulonocara as a genus endemic to Lake Malawi in East Africa, while WoRMS places Aulonocara in the family Cichlidae. It suits a keeper who can prepare a mature, filtered aquarium, hold stable Malawi water values and manage an aggressive cichlid community deliberately. This is not a soft-water community fish or a choice for adding casually to an established mixture of unrelated tropical species.

Keep the aquarium at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18°dH. OATA’s African Malawi cichlid guidance gives those figures as broad guidance for the group, together with carbonate hardness of 10–15°dKH. Use measured values rather than judging water by appearance. Ammonia and nitrite must remain at zero, while nitrate should not exceed 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.

For a reasonable-sized Malawi community, start with an aquarium of at least 200 litres. OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and that small groups will often fight. That is a whole-community planning reference, not a reason to add fish faster than the biological filter can support. The aquarium, filtration and stocking plan must work together before any animal is introduced.

OATA describes Malawi cichlids as usually undemanding and easy to keep, but it also calls them aggressive and identifies specialised water requirements. The practical challenge is therefore planning rather than complicated daily handling: establish the water chemistry, mature the filter, allow sufficient community space and make compatibility decisions before the fish enters the aquarium.

Understand the animal and size you select

The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Aulonocara and its care group. The trade name Aulonocara sp. Red places the fish in the genus without naming a species. Plan around the stated Malawi community values and seek a firmer identification before using any species-level adult length, diet or social formula.

One purchase supplies one live fish in the selected size. The live selector uses the labels 3 - 4 cm, 4 - 5 cm, 5 - 6 cm and XL. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Treat the centimetre labels as dispatch measurements and XL as its displayed grade; do not turn XL into a centimetre measurement or use any dispatch grade as a mature-length prediction.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Red Peacock Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option. Wikipedia describes Aulonocara as strongly sexually dichromic, but colour, markings, apparent maturity and gallery appearance must not be used as a sex promise for the fish supplied.

The gallery images are representative, based on reference photographs of this kind of animal, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal. Treat the gallery as an illustration of this kind of fish, and expect the fish supplied to differ in colour, pattern and markings. Two animals appearing in a scene does not alter the sold unit: each purchase quantity supplies one fish.

Make the purchase decision in this order

1. Check the aquarium: confirm that it is mature, filtered and able to hold the Malawi water values.
2. Review the whole community: include every existing and proposed Malawi cichlid or Synodontis in the aggression and capacity assessment.
3. Read the live size label: choose the dispatch size that fits the stocking plan without treating it as an adult measurement.
4. Plan the introduction: have water tests, receiving arrangements and the final aquascape ready before the parcel is opened.

If this aquarium is still at the research stage, browse the African cichlid collection to compare identities and plan a coherent Malawi community. Similar colouring is not enough to establish compatibility; water requirements, aggression and the role of every fish in the complete stocking plan matter more.

Plan space for the whole Malawi community

Use at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized Malawi cichlid community, then assess whether the aquarium can support the intended number and behaviour of fish. OATA recommends buying as large an aquarium as reasonably possible because a larger volume gives more stable temperature and water quality. The 200-litre figure is a community reference for the care group, so do not treat it as an exact volume calculated for one unidentified Red Peacock Cichlid.

Plan the complete population before choosing fish. Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15, and OATA warns that small groups will often fight. It also says a slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly through the population, which increases the importance of filtration, aeration, testing and maintenance. That does not mean exceeding the aquarium’s biological capacity or adding a large population to an immature filter.

Work from capacity, not a head count alone

• Aquarium volume: begin at 200 litres for a reasonable-sized community and choose a larger aquarium where practical.
• Biological capacity: ammonia and nitrite must be zero before fish are added and after each stocking change.
• Oxygen supply: use an oversized filter and aggressive aeration for a crowded Malawi community.
• Social plan: avoid a small collection that concentrates aggression between a few individuals.
• Growth planning: do not use a dispatch size as the fish’s mature measurement.

A useful planning exercise is to write down the aquarium volume, current livestock, intended additions and latest ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings. If the aquarium is empty but newly set up, complete the first tropical aquarium preparation and maturation steps before setting an arrival date. If fish are already present, assess the proposed addition against both water capacity and the existing aggression pattern.

Additions must be paced around the filter. OATA explains that beneficial bacteria need to increase whenever fish numbers and feeding rise. Stocking too quickly can cause new tank syndrome because the bacterial population cannot process the additional waste, allowing toxic ammonia and nitrite to rise. A large aquarium does not remove that risk when its filter is immature.

Review the plan whenever the population changes. A stable reading before an addition is the starting point; continue testing afterwards so a developing waste problem is found early. If ammonia or nitrite rises above zero, stop further additions and restore safe water quality before reconsidering the stocking schedule.

Hold stable Malawi water values

Keep the Red Peacock Cichlid at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and general hardness of 12–18°dH. Maintain carbonate hardness at 10–15°dKH. These OATA values give one coherent target range for planning, testing and water changes. Choose readings inside all four ranges rather than adjusting one measurement while ignoring the others.

Ammonia and nitrite must remain at zero mg per litre. Nitrate should not exceed 20 mg per litre above the level in the normal tap water. Test the source water as well as the aquarium so the nitrate result can be interpreted against that baseline. The Tropical Fish Co water chemistry guide explains what the principal measurements mean, while the water matcher helps compare measured aquarium values with the range used here.

Use a repeatable testing routine

Test at least weekly as part of the regular maintenance cycle. Also test when fish change their swimming, breathing, feeding, colour or aggression, because water quality is the first practical factor to check. Record results rather than relying on memory; a sequence of readings makes gradual movement easier to detect than one isolated test.

Prepare replacement water with a tap-water conditioner before adding it to the aquarium so harmful chlorine or chloramine is removed. OATA says the aquarium should have coral sand or a similar substrate to buffer the water. Test after any deliberate change to the water or substrate so the result is measured rather than assumed.

If a reading moves outside the target, deal with the measured problem before adding more fish or food. Check the filter for blockages, inspect for uneaten food and carry out the scheduled conditioned-water change. Avoid changing several parts of the system without measuring the outcome; a written before-and-after reading shows whether the action restored the intended range.

Protect the biological filter and oxygen supply

Run a well set up and maintained filter at all times. The RSPCA explains that biological filtration supports beneficial bacteria that convert toxic ammonia into nitrite and then into the safer nitrate. The filter is therefore living infrastructure for the aquarium, not simply a device that removes visible debris.

Use an oversized filter and aggressive aeration for a Malawi community. OATA links that recommendation to the crowded environments needed for successful Malawi communities: more fish and food create more waste, while every fish still requires sufficient dissolved oxygen. Check water movement and the filter for blockages as part of each maintenance session.

Follow the weekly maintenance sequence

1. Test first: measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before disturbing the aquarium.
2. Change water: at least once every week, change 25% of the aquarium water.
3. Remove solid waste: use a siphon to lift waste from the substrate during the partial change.
4. Condition replacement water: treat it for chlorine and chloramine before it enters the aquarium.
5. Check equipment: inspect the filter for blockages and confirm that aeration is working.
6. Retest when needed: verify the result after a poor reading, unusual behaviour or corrective maintenance.

Change 25% of the aquarium water at least once every week. A busier community may create visible waste sooner, but any additional action should be led by testing and observation. Do not wait for cloudy water or distressed fish before completing the scheduled work.

When filter media needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap. Rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. This reduces the loss of beneficial bacteria that chlorine or chloramine could cause. Avoid cleaning every part of the biological system aggressively at the same time; the goal is to remove blockages while preserving the bacterial population.

Feeding and filtration are directly linked. Food left uneaten breaks down and adds toxic waste, so portion control protects both the fish and the filter. After any increase in fish numbers, watch ammonia and nitrite closely while the beneficial bacteria respond to the higher waste load. Further stocking waits until the readings are back at zero and stable.

Use visible changes as prompts for an immediate test. Surface hanging, bottom sitting, erratic swimming or altered gill movement can accompany a water-quality problem. Testing turns an observation into a practical decision and prevents blind changes to an otherwise stable aquarium.

Build a layout that tolerates digging

Use coral sand or a similar substrate that helps buffer the hard, alkaline water. Malawi cichlids will often dig and rearrange the substrate, which will uproot any plants present. Keep equipment functional and make sure rearranged substrate cannot obstruct an intake, reduce flow or conceal an area that needs cleaning.

Use only the hardiest attached-growing plants, because digging will uproot any plants in the substrate. Treat planting as an optional part of the layout rather than relying on delicate growth to make the aquarium suitable. Inspect plants during maintenance and remove damaged material before it decays into the water.

Prioritise function in the layout

• Buffering substrate: use coral sand or a comparable substrate suited to the intended water chemistry.
• Maintenance access: leave enough access to siphon solid waste during weekly water changes.
• Protected flow: keep filter intakes and water movement clear after the fish dig.
• Hardy planting: choose only plants capable of coping with repeated substrate disturbance.
• Movable territories: arrange décor so it can be repositioned if aggression becomes concentrated.

OATA says rearranging the aquarium décor can help to reduce aggression as fish find new territories. That intervention has a specific purpose: it changes the territorial layout. Observe the community afterwards and confirm that aggression is spread rather than redirected relentlessly towards one animal.

Do not use visual resemblance to Lake Malawi as a substitute for the measurable requirements. A convincing display still needs 23–27°C water, pH 8.0–8.6, hard water, zero ammonia and zero nitrite. Conversely, a simple layout that keeps filtration, aeration and maintenance access working can support better decisions than an elaborate arrangement that traps waste or blocks equipment.

Before the fish arrives, complete the layout and confirm that the filter and aeration operate correctly with the substrate in place. Check the aquarium again after the first period of digging. If sand has accumulated around equipment or solid waste is collecting in inaccessible areas, adjust the arrangement and verify water movement before the problem affects water quality.

Match food to the confirmed feeding type

Use a complete Malawi cichlid food matched to the fish’s confirmed feeding type, and feed only what is eaten within a few minutes, twice a day. OATA explains that Malawi cichlid diets vary: smaller mbuna are more herbivorous and appreciate specialised high-algae feeds and fresh vegetables, while some larger utaka may be more predatory and require pellets with higher animal content plus suitable frozen feeds.

Do not choose between those two feeding patterns from red colour, dispatch size or a trade label alone. Establish which feeding type applies before making either an algae-rich or higher-animal-content formula the staple.

Use portion and response to manage each meal

1. Offer a small portion of the correctly matched Malawi cichlid food.
2. Watch the fish eat rather than leaving the aquarium immediately.
3. Stop when the amount that can be eaten within a few minutes has been offered.
4. Remove uneaten food before it breaks down into the water.
5. Repeat the controlled feeding routine twice a day.

The time limit applies to the whole portion, not to a race to add more food. If food remains after a few minutes, reduce the next portion. If one fish is consistently excluded, treat that as a social and compatibility problem rather than repeatedly adding food that the dominant fish may consume.

Variety must stay within the appropriate feeding pattern. For a fish confirmed as one of the smaller, more herbivorous mbuna, OATA says specialised Malawi cichlid feeds with a high algae content and fresh vegetables will be appreciated. For one confirmed as a more predatory utaka, it says pellets with a higher animal content will be required, with frozen feeds such as brine shrimp, prawns or cockles. Confirmation comes before selecting between those examples.

Overfeeding creates two connected risks. The fish receives more than it can eat, and the leftovers release toxic waste as they decompose. Check ammonia and nitrite if feeding interest drops, food begins accumulating or the community has recently changed. Both readings must remain at zero.

Keep a simple feeding note during the first weeks: record the food used, portion response and whether any animal is being displaced. This creates a practical baseline for appetite. A later reduction in intake can then be recognised promptly and considered alongside swimming, breathing, colour, body condition and the current water-test results.

Receive and introduce the fish carefully

Be present to receive the parcel and start filming before it is opened. Tropical Fish Co’s delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy instructs customers to make a continuous unboxing video beginning with the parcel still sealed and the outer box visible. The video must then show the parcel being opened and the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.

Follow the arrival sequence

1. Receive the parcel in person: live fish must not be left unattended.
2. Start the continuous video: show the sealed parcel and visible outer box before opening it.
3. Open and inspect it that day: keep filming through the opening until the fish can be seen inside the sealed bag.
4. Float the bag: float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Release the fish: do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Prepare the aquarium before the parcel arrives. OATA’s introduction advice is to confirm that ammonia and nitrite are zero and that the aquarium is an appropriate size for the intended Malawi population. Complete these aquarium checks before receiving the fish.

Coordinate the addition with the social plan. OATA recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups so one new individual does not receive unnecessary aggression while settling in. It also recommends adding more peaceful species first and more aggressive species later. Apply that sequence only after the aquarium’s biological capacity and the identities of the intended group have been assessed.

Adding in groups does not mean adding fish faster than the filter can support. Beneficial bacteria must increase as fish numbers and feeding rise, and rapid stocking can cause new tank syndrome. Test after additions and pause the stocking plan if ammonia or nitrite rises above zero.

Watch how the existing fish respond after release. Persistent attacks, concentrated chasing or damage require action; rearranging décor can make established fish find new territories. Continue observing the newcomer’s swimming, breathing and feeding while testing the water, because social pressure and water-quality changes can appear at the same time.

Keep the order number and continuous video accessible. For a Live Arrival Guarantee claim, the policy requires same-day contact together with the order number and video showing the sealed parcel, continuous opening and fish still in the sealed bag.

Respond to health changes early

Use the fish’s normal behaviour and appearance as the baseline, then act on changes. OATA describes healthy fish as having clear, bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcerations or bumps and appropriate swimming. Appetite, breathing and body condition should also remain consistent for that individual.

Test the water when any of these changes appear

• Swimming: hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or moving erratically.
• Colour: becoming darker or paler than normal.
• Temperament: a change in the level of aggression or more hiding than usual.
• Breathing: gill covers moving faster or slower than normal.
• Appearance: white spots, fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales, ulcerations or bumps.
• Condition: an increase or decrease in body weight or general condition.
• Feeding: reduced intake or a lack of interest in food.

Check ammonia and nitrite first and require both to be zero. Measure temperature, pH, general hardness, carbonate hardness and nitrate at the same time so the assessment covers the whole Malawi water target. Inspect the filter for blockage, confirm aeration and look for uneaten food or accumulated solid waste.

If a social problem is visible, identify the fish giving and receiving aggression. Rearranging décor may break established territories, but observation afterwards is essential. The intervention has worked only when attacks are reduced or spread rather than focused on another individual.

Do not diagnose a disease from one non-specific sign. Reduced feeding, hiding or colour change can accompany several problems, including poor water quality or aggression. Record the observed change and measured water results, and contact Tropical Fish Co for further guidance whenever you are concerned about the fish’s health. Avoid selecting medication or a treatment recipe from appearance alone.

Keep maintenance steady while investigating. Continue conditioned-water changes, protect the biological filter and remove uneaten food. Do not rinse filter media under the tap, because chlorine or chloramine may kill beneficial bacteria and create an additional water-quality problem.

A short written log makes subtle changes easier to judge. Note the date, water readings, appetite, breathing, swimming and aggression. This separates a momentary variation from a continuing decline and gives a clear account of what changed and which practical checks have already been completed.

Screen every companion before mixing

Keep this fish only with other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis catfish that naturally inhabit Lake Malawi. That is OATA’s compatibility boundary for Malawi cichlids. The exact companion still needs screening for identity, water values, expected behaviour, aquarium capacity and its place in the stocking sequence.

Do not add unrelated tropical community fish, whatever their size or colour. The Malawi plan requires 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and hard water, while aggression must be managed across the whole population. Only other Malawi cichlids and some Lake Malawi Synodontis belong in this community, even when another fish would tolerate the same water.

Apply the compatibility screen in order

1. Confirm the category: the candidate must be another Malawi cichlid or one of the Synodontis species that naturally inhabits Lake Malawi.
2. Compare water requirements: every animal must fit the same hard, alkaline aquarium values.
3. Review aggression: identify how another territorial fish could affect both established and newly introduced animals.
4. Check capacity: include the added waste, feeding and oxygen demand in the filter assessment.
5. Plan the introduction: add more peaceful species first, more aggressive species later and Malawi cichlids in planned groups.
6. Prepare a response: make sure décor can be rearranged if established territories cause concentrated attacks.

Do not treat “other Malawi cichlid” as a universal approval. OATA describes the group as aggressive and says all mixes require caution. Species identity, aquarium size and the existing social pattern determine whether a proposed addition belongs in a particular community.

Some Lake Malawi Synodontis fall within the permitted category, but “Synodontis” alone is too broad for a decision. Confirm that the proposed catfish is one of the species covered by the Lake Malawi condition and that its care fits the aquarium before including it.

Sex ratios also require care. OATA advises keeping more females than males of each species where possible so one female does not receive all of a male’s attention. That advice cannot be converted into a fixed ratio for this offer because sex is not guaranteed. Build the stocking plan from animals whose identities and sexes are genuinely known rather than inferring either from colour or size.

Manage aggression as a whole-system decision

Treat aggression as an expected Malawi cichlid risk. OATA calls these fish aggressive, says small groups will often fight, says they can be kept in groups of at least 15 and says a slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly. Those measures work only as part of a sufficiently large, strongly filtered and well-aerated community.

Use at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized community and choose a larger aquarium where practical. Pair the stocking plan with an oversized filter, aggressive aeration, weekly testing and a 25% partial water change at least once every week. Social management must not come at the expense of oxygen or water quality.

Match the response to what you observe

When several fish are introduced, keep the biological filter’s response in view. Every addition increases waste and feeding, and beneficial bacteria need time to increase. An aggression-management plan that creates new tank syndrome has exchanged one serious risk for another.

Introduce more peaceful species before more aggressive species. Adding Malawi cichlids in groups can reduce the chance that one new fish receives all the aggression, but the group must have passed the compatibility and capacity checks first. Do not use this advice to mix categories outside other Malawi cichlids and eligible Lake Malawi Synodontis.

Observe changes in both directions. An established fish may become more aggressive, while the new fish may hide, stop feeding or show fin damage. Continue monitoring after the first encounter rather than deciding compatibility from a brief calm period. A successful community maintains safe water values and avoids sustained attacks on any one animal.

Answer common Red Peacock Cichlid questions

How big does a Red Peacock Cichlid get?

Plan its space around OATA’s reference of at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized Malawi cichlid community. The labels 3 - 4 cm, 4 - 5 cm, 5 - 6 cm and XL describe dispatch sizes and must not be treated as adult measurements.

What size aquarium does a Red Peacock Cichlid need?

Use an aquarium of at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized Malawi cichlid community. OATA gives this as a community planning figure and recommends choosing as large an aquarium as reasonably possible for more stable temperature and water quality.

How many Red Peacock Cichlids should I keep together?

OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and warns that small groups often fight. Plan that as a complete Malawi community, with sufficient aquarium capacity, oversized filtration and aggressive aeration.

Is the Red Peacock Cichlid suitable for beginners?

It can suit a prepared beginner because OATA describes Malawi cichlids as usually undemanding and easy to keep. The keeper must still maintain specialised hard, alkaline water and manage an aggressive community in a mature aquarium.

What does this fish eat?

Feed a complete Malawi cichlid food matched to its confirmed feeding type, twice daily, offering only what it eats within a few minutes. OATA separates algae-rich feeding for smaller mbuna from higher-animal-content foods for some larger utaka, so confirm the applicable type first.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep the Red Peacock Cichlid at 23–27°C and pH 8.0–8.6, with general hardness of 12–18°dH. OATA gives these Malawi cichlid values and also requires zero ammonia and zero nitrite.

Is it aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Treat it as an aggressive Malawi cichlid and monitor chasing, hiding and fin condition. OATA warns that small groups often fight; rearrange décor if established territories cause concentrated attacks and reassess any fish receiving persistent aggression.

Which animals can it live with?

Use only other Malawi cichlids or some Synodontis species that naturally inhabit Lake Malawi. Screen the exact companion, shared water values, aquarium capacity and aggression pattern before mixing.

How does it arrive alive in the UK?

Tropical Fish Co hand-bags the fish in pure oxygen and uses an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. Be present to receive it, film continuously from the sealed parcel, float the bag for 20–30 minutes and release the fish without pouring bag water into the aquarium.

Consult the public references

• WoRMS: Aulonocara taxon record — accepted genus, family and order.
• Wikipedia: Aulonocara — genus distribution, aquarium trade names, sexual dichromism and maternal mouthbrooding.
• OATA: How to look after African Malawi cichlids — group-level aquarium care, water, feeding, maintenance, introductions and compatibility.
• RSPCA: Creating a suitable fish environment — biological filtration and aquarium welfare.