
Red Dragon Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara sp. 'Red Dragon')
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L

Buy the Red Trewavas' Cichlid (Labeotropheus trewavasae), a bold red-orange Lake Malawi mbuna. A hardy, moderate-care African cichlid for hard-water rocky aquariums. Tropical fish for sale UK with licensed live-animal courier service.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Photos are AI-enhanced, so the animal may show subtle colour or marking differences.
Labeotropheus trewavasae red
Red-Top Cichlid, Trewavas' bond and breed in male/female pairs — buying a pair gives them the social structure they need.
Buy the Red Trewavas' Cichlid (Labeotropheus trewavasae), a bold red-orange Lake Malawi mbuna. A hardy, moderate-care African cichlid for hard-water rocky aquariums. Tropical fish for sale UK with licensed live-animal courier service.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Photos are AI-enhanced, so the animal may show subtle colour or marking differences.

Cichlids are one of the most diverse fish families in the hobby. From tiny apistogrammas to massive oscars, this guide covers the basics of keeping them well.
Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors
If you want a bold Lake Malawi cichlid with real character, the Red Trewavas' Cichlid deserves a close look. Known to aquarists as Labeotropheus trewavasae, this striking mbuna is a rock-dwelling herbivore from East Africa that combines vivid red-orange colour, fascinating mouthbrooding behaviour, and a rugged personality. Adults reach around 12 cm, can live up to 8 years with good care, and suit fishkeepers who understand that “moderate care” means structured rather than difficult. It is an African cichlid UK hobbyists often choose when they want a species with visible social behaviour, a clear hierarchy, and strong presence in a rocky aquarium.
For customers browsing tropical fish for sale UK, looking for a tropical fish shop near me, or searching buy live fish online uk, the appeal is simple: this fish delivers the classic mbuna look without being bland or fragile. Our photos show body shape, finnage, and colour intensity in well-conditioned specimens. The Red Trewavas' Cichlid is especially popular with aquarists building a rocky Malawi display rather than a soft-water community setup. If you want a hardy, active, highly visible freshwater cichlid UK favourite that rewards good aquascaping and disciplined feeding, it is a smart choice.
The Red Trewavas' Cichlid belongs to the mbuna group of Lake Malawi cichlids, a collection of rock-associated species known in the aquarium hobby for bright colour, territorial behaviour, and complex breeding displays. Within the hobby, Labeotropheus trewavasae is valued for its distinctive head profile, algae-grazing lifestyle, and reliable maternal mouthbrooding. It sits alongside other sought-after Lake Malawi cichlid UK species but stands out for its chunky shape and strong red colour forms.
The Red Trewavas' Cichlid comes from Lake Malawi, East Africa, one of the great freshwater rift lakes. In the wild it lives among rocky shorelines where wave action keeps surfaces rich in algae and biofilm. That habitat shapes the fish: its slightly downturned mouth and robust body are adaptations for scraping algae from rock faces in hard, alkaline water.
A true Malawi tank setup should focus more on rock structure than on heavy planting. Keepers moving up from a soft-water community tropical fish UK aquarium are often surprised that this species does best in a specialised cichlid environment rather than a mixed community. Because it comes from hard, alkaline water, red trewavas' cichlid hard water care is central to long-term success, which makes it a good match for UK keepers whose tap water is naturally hard. Note that this is strictly an indoor heated aquarium fish, not a pond species.
Mimic the natural habitat with stacked rock piles, open swimming lanes, and high oxygen levels. It improves colour, reduces stress, and brings out natural grazing and courtship behaviour. In my experience, Red Trewavas' Cichlids settle faster when each fish can break line of sight within a second or two.
A proper setup is the difference between a dominant but manageable mbuna colony and a tank full of constant chasing. The red trewavas' cichlid minimum tank size is 200 litres, but that is only realistic for a carefully planned group. Footprint matters more than litres, so think length first: a tank of at least 100 cm is a sensible starting point, and anything smaller is not suitable for this species.
The best social structure is usually 1 male with 3 or more females. This spreads attention and reduces harassment. In larger tanks, some aquarists deliberately overstock mbuna slightly to diffuse aggression, but that only works with serious filtration and regular water changes. A complete setup for this species should include a secure lid, strong filtration, a reliable heater, a test kit, and plenty of stable rockwork placed directly on the tank base before substrate is added.
The correct red trewavas' cichlid water parameters are stable and specific: 24-28°C, pH 7.5-8.5, and 10-25 dGH. The ideal tropical fish tank temperature for this species sits at the warmer end of standard tropical conditions, around 25-26°C, but not excessively hot. Stability matters more than chasing the highest number: keep the temperature steady day to night, and avoid letting it climb above 29°C for long periods, as oxygen drops and aggression rises in warmer water.
This species is active, territorial, and messier than many community fish, so it needs robust filtration. Use a high-capacity external filter or a strong internal system, and pair a tropical fish tank filter and heater together for stable conditions. Many keepers add a circulation pump as backup. Position the heater near flow for even heat distribution to avoid cold spots behind rock piles, and check the setting weekly, especially in winter.
Fine sand or smooth gravel works well. The fish constantly patrols rock surfaces and may shift light substrate while digging shallow pits, so build caves and broken sight lines with inert rock. Heavy planting is not natural here; if you want greenery, use only tough, attached species such as Anubias or Java fern fixed to rock, and expect some nibbling. A little natural algae grazing is normal and beneficial in a Malawi tank, but grazing fish are never a substitute for proper maintenance and balanced lighting.
Cycle the aquarium for 4-6 weeks before adding mbuna. Equipment guides focus on hardware, but for cichlids the real key is mature biological filtration and stable territories from day one.
For hobbyists building a Malawi setup, related cichlids such as Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus work in similarly rocky aquariums, while browsing our wider Lake Malawi cichlid collection helps you compare shape, colour, and aggression levels before stocking.
The red trewavas' cichlid diet should be built around plant-based foods. In the wild these fish graze algae and the tiny organisms trapped within it, so in captivity the safest approach is spirulina flakes, algae wafers, a quality herbivore cichlid pellet, and blanched vegetables such as courgette, spinach, or shelled peas. This is not a fish to push onto a heavy high-protein menu; too much rich food is one of the classic triggers for Malawi bloat.
Use spirulina-based flakes or pellets as the daily staple. A good herbivore cichlid pellet should sink slowly or stay suspended long enough for midwater feeding. Choose foods labelled for mbuna or herbivorous cichlids rather than generic carnivore pellets.
Supplement with algae wafers and blanched greens 2-4 times per week. These keep the fish occupied and can reduce aggression around feeding time. Where natural algae grows on rock, controlled browsing is beneficial and natural.
Limit treats. Occasional daphnia or brine shrimp can be offered sparingly, but avoid frequent bloodworm or fatty meaty foods. Balance is better than extremes: do not strip every surface spotless and then feed a poor diet, and go easy on aquarium plant food in mixed displays, since overuse can fuel nuisance algae in bright tanks.
| Time | Food | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Morning | Spirulina flakes or herbivore cichlid pellets | Small portion eaten in 30-60 seconds |
| Evening | Algae wafer or blanched vegetable | Light portion, remove leftovers after 2 hours |
Feed adults once or twice daily in small portions. Juveniles can be fed slightly more often, but still avoid overfeeding. In mbuna tanks, extra food quickly becomes waste trapped in rockwork, which can worsen algae and cloudiness, so disciplined feeding works alongside strong filtration.
A similarly algae-grazing Malawi cichlid that thrives on the same herbivore-focused feeding routine in a rocky mbuna aquarium.
Useful for comparing herbivorous cichlid nutrition, especially if you are building a specialist African grazing setup.
Overfeeding causes ammonia spikes, cloudy water, and digestive stress. Rich protein foods given too often can contribute to bloat in herbivorous mbuna such as Red Trewavas' Cichlids.
The Red Trewavas' Cichlid has the classic robust mbuna build: deep-bodied, muscular, and slightly elongated, with a distinctive sloping head and thick lips adapted for grazing rock surfaces. Adults usually reach around 12 cm, though dominant males can appear larger because of finnage and posture. The body profile is one of the easiest ways to distinguish this species from slimmer Malawi cichlids.
Colour varies by sex, mood, and line, but the red form is prized for warm orange-red to rusty red body colour, often with darker facial shading and contrasting fin edges. Females are usually less intense, while mature males show stronger saturation and more territorial display. Colour develops best in stable hard water, on a correct herbivorous diet, and under balanced lighting against dark rock backgrounds; in a bright, bare tank even healthy fish can look washed out.
A good red trewavas' cichlid care guide should make clear that this is a hardy species, but it still needs the correct tank size, temperature, and social structure to show its best appearance.
The short answer is: other robust Malawi fish, chosen carefully. Red trewavas' cichlid compatible fish must tolerate hard alkaline water, assertive behaviour, and a rocky layout. This is not a classic community fish in the way peaceful tetras or rasboras are, so think “specialist cichlid community” rather than mixed tropical community.
The best tank mates are usually other mbuna of similar toughness but different enough in shape and colour to reduce direct rivalry. Good options to explore include Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus, Kiriza Yellow Cichlid - Tropheus Moorii, and Orange I Blunthead Cichlid - Tropheus. Robust bottom-dwellers such as Synodontis catfish are often better choices than delicate plecs in hard, aggressive setups. Peacocks such as Rubin Red Peacock Cichlid - Aulonocara, Aulonocara kandeense, or Aulonocara Sp Neon Red Calico Peacock are a caution mix rather than a first choice, because calmer haps and peacocks can be stressed by rough mbuna behaviour.
Avoid shrimp, small schooling fish, most snails, and gentle community species. Red Trewavas' are also poor companions for South American cichlids such as Guianacara Dacrya - South American Cichlid or Thorichthys Maculipinnis - Elliot'S Cichlid - because the water chemistry and behaviour style differ too much.
For a 200-250 litre setup, a starting point could be one male Red Trewavas' with 3-4 females plus one carefully chosen group of similarly robust mbuna. In larger tanks, mixed mbuna colonies work better because territory lines are easier to break up. Real-world success depends on rock layout, sex ratio, and stocking order, so add the most territorial fish last where possible.
| Species | Compatible? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus | ✅ Yes | Suitable for rocky Malawi tanks with careful stocking and space. |
| Rubin Red Peacock Cichlid - Aulonocara | ⚠️ Caution | Possible in larger tanks, but mbuna aggression may stress calmer peacocks. |
| Shrimp, tetras, small peaceful fish | ❌ Avoid | Wrong water chemistry and too vulnerable to aggression. |
This species is not ideal for a first-ever aquarium, but it suits aquarists who have mastered general tropical fish tank care and know how to clean, maintain, and water-change a planted or rockscape tank. Regular testing matters with mbuna because a high bioload and heavy rockwork can hide waste.
Always use a quarantine tank for 2-4 weeks before adding new cichlids. Quarantine reduces parasite transfer and lets you observe temperament before a fish enters an established hierarchy.
Red trewavas' cichlid breeding is usually considered easy once the fish are mature, healthy, and kept in the right social group. This species is a maternal mouthbrooder: the male courts a female over a chosen spawning site, usually a flat rock or shallow pit, and after fertilisation the female collects the eggs in her mouth for incubation.
A dedicated breeding group works best: one male and several females in a mature rocky aquarium. A single pair alone can lead to relentless male pressure, so group breeding is more natural and safer. Keep water at the warmer end of the normal range, around 26-27°C, hold pH within 7.8-8.3 for the best breeding response, and maintain excellent water quality throughout.
The male intensifies in colour, clears a site, and displays with shaking movements. The female lays and collects the eggs quickly. If eggs are left on the substrate, the spawn may have been interrupted, because healthy females usually gather them immediately. Trapped food or fungus is sometimes mistaken for eggs, so observe closely before intervening.
The female carries the brood in her mouth for roughly 18-21 days depending on temperature, and often eats very little during this period. Some breeders strip the fry artificially, but many home keepers let the female release naturally in a quiet rearing tank, which is usually the less stressful route.
Once free-swimming, fry accept crushed spirulina flake, fine herbivore fry foods, and powdered algae-based diets. Keep water pristine with small frequent changes: during fry rearing, ammonia and nitrite must stay at zero, nitrate low, and pH stable.
Experienced breeders often move holding females to a separate tank around day 14-16 of incubation. This reduces fry predation after release while avoiding the stress of very early transfer. Use identical water parameters to the main aquarium to prevent the female from swallowing or spitting the brood prematurely.
Choosing between Malawi cichlids is not just about colour. Body shape, aggression, diet, and compatibility all matter. The Red Trewavas' offers a specific package: bold personality, rock-dwelling behaviour, and a herbivore-focused feeding plan. The tables below compare only its own care specs against two well-known Malawi relatives.
| Feature | Red Trewavas' Cichlid | Yellow Elongatus (Chindongo) |
|---|---|---|
| Body Shape | Deep, heavy grazer | Slimmer, more torpedo-shaped |
| Diet Focus | Herbivore | Herbivore / aufwuchs grazer |
| Aggression | High | High |
| Tank Style | Dense rockwork | Dense rockwork |
| Best For | Keepers wanting a unique head profile and red colour | Keepers wanting strong contrast and active movement |
Choose the Red Trewavas' if you want a rock-focused display with constant grazing behaviour and a tougher, more “mbuna” presence than many peacocks. Choose a peacock such as Aulonocara Sp Neon Red Calico Peacock or Aulonocara kandeense if you prefer a calmer, more open-water show fish. For another assertive African option with a different body style, compare with Orange I Blunthead Cichlid - Tropheus. The right answer depends on whether your tank is built around rocks and hierarchy or colour and mixed temperament.
A healthy Red Trewavas' is alert, responsive, brightly coloured, and constantly interested in grazing or patrolling territory. Fins should be open, eyes clear, and breathing steady. If a fish hangs in a corner, clamps its fins, spits food, or darkens dramatically for long periods, investigate quickly. In aggressive cichlid tanks, stress often shows before disease becomes obvious.
The main risks are Malawi bloat, external parasites, bacterial infections after fighting damage, and general aquarium diseases linked to poor water quality. Bloat often starts with loss of appetite, stringy waste, swelling, and lethargy. White spot, skin irritation, and flashing can appear when new fish are added without quarantine.
The best prevention is correct diet, stable water, and low chronic stress. You need fewer chemicals than many beginners think: a good dechlorinator, possibly mineral support depending on your tap water, and targeted medication only when a specific problem is diagnosed. Routine dosing of random additives is not good practice; clean source water and regular testing do far more than constant treatments. Cloudiness in mbuna systems usually means immature filtration, disturbed substrate, or overfeeding, while green water points to excess light and nutrients, so always fix the cause rather than just the symptom.
Never medicate blindly. Treating the wrong issue wastes time and can weaken fish further. If invertebrates share any connected system, avoid copper-based medications because they are lethal to shrimp and many snails.
This species is active, territorial, and constantly aware of its surroundings. It spends much of the day grazing rock surfaces, challenging rivals, and defending small areas around caves or feeding spots. Unlike gentle shoaling fish, social structure is based on dominance and breeding groups rather than schooling.
Males display by intensifying colour, flaring fins, and circling chosen territories, while females are usually less confrontational but still assertive. The fish uses rockwork constantly, so open, bare tanks tend to increase stress and visible aggression. To encourage natural behaviour, keep a correct sex ratio, provide multiple caves, hold the temperature steady, and avoid mixing with timid fish. In a settled tank you will see grazing, courtship, mouthbrooding, and clear territory boundaries, which is exactly why many aquarists choose this species over more passive alternatives.
When customers search best place to buy tropical fish UK, tropical fish for sale online, or buy tropical fish UK, they are usually trying to avoid two problems: weak stock and poor packing. For a species like Red Trewavas', conditioning matters. These fish travel best when they have been stabilised on a herbivore diet, observed for social damage, and held in clean hard water before dispatch.
Our Red Trewavas' Cichlids are selected for body condition, alert behaviour, and clean finnage rather than colour alone. Before sale they are observed for feeding response and general health, then packed in insulated boxes with oxygenated bags and seasonal heat protection where needed. This matters for an active mbuna that can stress easily if shipped badly, and it is why many buyers choose a specialist UK online seller over limited local choice.
A Red Trewavas' is not a generic community fish. It needs the right water chemistry, diet, and tank mates from day one, and that is exactly how we present it. If you are building a Lake Malawi display, this species gives you colour, movement, and breeding potential in one package. Order your Red Trewavas' Cichlid today with confidence if you want a true Lake Malawi grazer with personality and presence.
Planning a full African setup? Compare this species with Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus for another rocky mbuna option, or look at Rubin Red Peacock Cichlid - Aulonocara if you prefer a calmer show fish. For more unusual contrast, explore Aulonocara kandeense or Aulonocara Sp Neon Red Calico Peacock. If you are comparing African and non-African cichlid styles, Thorichthys Maculipinnis - Elliot'S Cichlid - offers a very different temperament and water preference. You can also browse our wider tropical fish for sale UK collection to build a compatible stock list around your tank size and water chemistry.

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 300L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 150L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 300L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L

18–26°C · pH 6.5–8 · 30L

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23–27°C · pH 7.4–8.4 · 150L

24–28°C · pH 6.5–7.8 · 300L

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24–28°C · pH 6.5–7.5 · 2000L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L

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24–27°C · pH 7.5–8.8 · 150L

22–26°C · pH 6–7.5 · 60L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 40L

24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 500L