Pterophyllum scalare scal. platinum

A platinum freshwater angelfish for a tall, mature aquarium

Pterophyllum scalare scal. platinum is a platinum-coloured domestic form of the freshwater angelfish, Pterophyllum scalare, a tall, disc-shaped cichlid from South America. FishBase records the wild species from the Amazon River basin in Peru, Colombia and Brazil, along the Ucayali, Solimões and Amazon rivers, with further records from Amapá, the Rio Oyapock in French Guiana and the Essequibo River in Guyana. Plan for an adult about 15 cm long that stands roughly 20–25 cm tall once its long fins are counted.

It suits a keeper who can offer a mature aquarium of around 200 litres with real height, and who plans for a compatible pair or a deliberate group rather than a lone fish. Angelfish are cichlids: Seriously Fish describes the species as generally peaceful but warns that some aggression should be expected from time to time, particularly towards its own kind. It is the wrong fish for a short starter tank or for a community built around tiny tetras.

The platinum colour changes the look, not the care. Our angelfish care guide advises against treating any one colour form as universally hardier, calmer or more disease-resistant, so choose by the health of the individual fish and how well it fits your tank.

FishBase places the species in the cichlid family, Cichlidae, and lists it as Least Concern on the IUCN Red List. Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes gives the accepted name as Pterophyllum scalare (Schultze, 1823), with the lower Amazon in Brazil as its type locality. Platinum, like marble, koi, gold and black, is a domestic colour form sold under P. scalare, while the Altum angelfish, Pterophyllum altum, is a separate species rather than a colour strain.

The decisive numbers

• Adult size: about 15 cm long and 20–25 cm tall including fins.
• Aquarium: around 200 litres, a 100 × 40 cm footprint and 50 cm of height.
• Social plan: a compatible pair or a planned group.
• Water: 24–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH, held steady.
• Diet: a complete cichlid pellet or granule with frozen variety.

Sizes, sex and what arrives

One purchase supplies one live angelfish in the size you choose. Sizes run from 2.5–3 cm through 3–3.5 cm, 4–5 cm, 5–5.5 cm and XL (6–7 cm) to XXL (>7.5 cm). The live size selector shows which of them can be ordered at checkout, and the quantity you enter is the number of fish of that size you receive.

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Even the XXL size starts well below the 15 cm adult length, so the aquarium you buy for has to be the adult tank from the start; a fish of dispatch size has not yet developed its full height or fins.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Pterophyllum scalare scal. platinum listing has no sex-guaranteed option. Fish are picked by size, not by sex.

Gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. Natural colour, pattern, size and maturity can vary between live animals. Expect individual fish in one order to differ a little in sheen and finnage as well as in size.

Buying for a pair or a group

If you hope to end up with a pair, Seriously Fish suggests starting with a group of six juveniles, from which a pair can form. That route needs a plan for the other fish once a pair settles, because territorial behaviour is to be expected during pair formation and breeding. Buying one fish on its own is the weakest option: OATA warns that angelfish kept singly may become stressed.

To compare other angelfish forms side by side before deciding, browse our angelfish collection.

Plan for a fish that grows tall as well as long

Plan for an adult of about 15 cm total length and roughly 20–25 cm total height from the tip of the dorsal fin to the tip of the anal fin. Our angelfish care guide gives that height range from a peer-reviewed development paper, and height is the dimension that most often catches keepers out.

What the size records say

• FishBase: a field maximum of 10.5 cm total length, and a 15 cm total-length figure it retains from an aquarium reference.
• Seriously Fish: 150 mm standard length.
• Tropical Fish Co angelfish care guide: plan for around 15 cm total length and 20–25 cm total height, with variation between individuals and domestic strains.

Using the larger length keeps the tank, filter and companion decisions on the safe side. A fish of about 15 cm from snout to tail still stands much taller because of its fins, so measure height as carefully as length.

How the species lives in the wild

FishBase describes the freshwater angelfish as benthopelagic and non-migratory, with adults living in swamps or flooded ground where aquatic and riverside vegetation is dense and the water is clear or silty. That habitat explains the tall plants and vertical structure used in good angelfish layouts, although it does not make one exact plant, substrate colour or tannin level a medical requirement.

A long-term fish

OATA’s care sheet for American cichlids notes that all American cichlids can live for several years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality. Buy with that commitment in mind: the adult tank, the social plan and the routine need to last for years, not just the first few months.

Size the tank for height, footprint and the social plan

Start from about 200 litres for an adult pair, with a footprint of around 100 × 40 cm and at least 50 cm of height. Seriously Fish describes a tank of 100 × 40 × 50 cm, about 200 litres, as the smallest to consider and recommends a tall tank of at least 50 cm for adults; FishBase gives a minimum aquarium size of 100 cm.

How the OATA figures fit

OATA’s general American-cichlid sheet recommends at least 120 litres for a pair of the smaller species under 15 cm, and at least 300 litres for larger or more aggressive species over 15 cm, and it says angelfish need an aquarium that is sufficiently tall when fully grown. An adult of about 15 cm sits at the boundary between those two categories, which is why 120 litres works only as an absolute floor. For shoaling species such as angelfish, OATA also suggests allowing 40 litres per adult fish.

Worked examples

• An adult pair: plan around 200 litres in a tank about 100 × 40 × 50 cm.
• Five adults: at 40 litres per fish that is 200 litres for the angelfish alone, before any companions are added, so the tank needs to be larger.
• A juvenile group grown on to pair off: set up the adult tank first, and have a second suitable aquarium or a realistic rehoming route ready for surplus fish.

Filtration, heating and a lid

For a tank of about 200 litres, Seriously Fish suggests a filter rated at roughly 800–1000 litres per hour, turning the water over four to five times an hour, and a heater of roughly 200–275 W to hold its 24–30°C range in a room of about 20°C. It also prefers gentle water flow, so choose filtration for water quality and oxygen exchange without making the fish fight a harsh current. Cover hazardous intakes, and fit a secure lid: if a fish does jump, return it to aquarium water at once with wet hands or a wet soft net, then watch its breathing, balance and skin.

If the aquarium is new, our step-by-step guide to setting up a first tropical tank covers maturing the filter before livestock arrives. Only tests showing zero ammonia and nitrite prove a tank is ready; a calendar cannot.

Hold the water at 24–27°C and keep it steady

Keep this angelfish at 24–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH. That routine target comes from our angelfish care guide and sits inside the species values FishBase compiles.

The routine band trims the warmest end of both species profiles and starts pH at 6.5. Seriously Fish’s aquarium profile stops at pH 7.4, so stable water between pH 6.5 and 7.4 sits inside every source in the table, and water up to pH 8.0 stays within FishBase’s range. OATA’s figures are general guidance for American cichlids as a group rather than a species-specific range, and its 22°C lower end is cooler than both species profiles, so do not let the tank drift that low.

Clean water comes first

OATA sets ammonia and nitrite at zero and nitrate at no more than 20 mg per litre above your normal tap water level, and notes that American cichlids can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia. A perfect pH reading means little if either of those first two values is climbing.

Test and adjust with care

Measure GH, KH and pH rather than copying a fixed mix of RO and tap water, because both sources vary. Check temperature with a thermometer instead of trusting the heater dial. Keep gradual adjustment for planned changes in pH, hardness or temperature; an ammonia or nitrite problem needs immediate action, not a slow drift. Our guide to aquarium water chemistry explains GH, KH and pH in plain terms, and the water matcher compares your measured results with stated ranges; use it alongside the target above rather than in place of it.

Start from the water they know

Ask us about the temperature and water the fish are held in before you order, then change your own water gradually, if at all. Stability protects a young angelfish far more than chasing an ideal number.

Give it tall cover and open water to turn in

Build the layout upwards. Seriously Fish recommends a well-planted tank with tall, leafy plants such as Amazon swords and gentle water flow. Our angelfish care guide adds vertical plants or wood to break sight lines, with open water where an adult can turn without dragging its fins; that structure gives fish more choice of where to be and fewer uninterrupted lines for aggression.

Substrate, plants and décor

OATA advises fine gravel or sand because many American cichlids dig or sift the substrate when feeding or breeding. It also warns that they may dig up or eat live plants, and suggests plastic plants as cover where that happens. Secure rocks and wood so digging cannot topple them, and avoid sharp edges that could tear long fins.

A layout checklist

• Tall plants such as Amazon swords, or tall artificial plants, towards the back and sides.
• Upright wood or roots that break the view across the tank.
• A clear central area where adults can turn with their fins extended.
• Fine gravel or sand, with décor bedded in firmly.
• Gentle flow and covered intakes.
• A tight-fitting lid.

Live or artificial cover both work. Where digging or plant-eating companions share the tank, OATA’s plastic-plant suggestion keeps cover in place; in a calmer tank, tall live plants such as the Amazon swords Seriously Fish recommends add height and cover.

Vertical broad leaves or smooth slate also give a pair suitable spawning surfaces later. Dark or light substrate, tea-coloured water and a particular aquascape style remain design choices; the fish need height, cover, open water and stable conditions far more than a specific look.

Feed a complete cichlid staple with meaty extras

Offer a complete cichlid pellet or granule as the staple, once a day and only as much as the fish eat within a few minutes. OATA recommends specialised cichlid pellets and granules supplemented with frozen or freeze-dried foods, and notes that American cichlids can eat large amounts at one sitting, so take care not to overfeed.

Seriously Fish describes the species as omnivorous, with wild fish feeding predominantly on zoobenthos such as small crustaceans and other aquatic invertebrates. It adds that tank-bred fish accept pellet or flake food and relish live or frozen foods, which makes a varied menu easy to build.

A balanced menu

• Staple: a complete cichlid pellet or granule, or a suitable flake, sized for the smallest fish in the tank.
• Variety: frozen or freeze-dried Daphnia, brine shrimp and bloodworm, the foods OATA suggests for smaller American cichlids.
• Conditioning: live foods such as bloodworm and brine shrimp before a pair spawns.

A controlled feeding study in freshwater angelfish found that feed type affected growth and reproductive performance, which supports offering good-quality, varied food; it does not set one menu for every home aquarium. Bloodworm, brine shrimp and other favourites supplement the staple rather than replace it.

Food size for young fish

A 2.5–3 cm juvenile needs a far smaller pellet or crushed flake than a grown angelfish, so match the staple to the smallest fish present and move up in size as the fish grow. Frozen Daphnia and brine shrimp suit small mouths well while the fish are young.

Make sure every fish eats

In a pair or group, one fish can hold back another at feeding time. Watch that every angelfish, including any subordinate fish, reaches the food, remove what is left and track body shape over weeks. Uneaten food and excess waste break down into toxic compounds, as OATA warns, so a lean, observed feed is better than a heavy one. Fasting, peas, vitamins or medicated food are no substitute for a diagnosis when a fish swims abnormally.

Keep a weekly routine and test first when something changes

The weekly routine

OATA’s sheet strongly recommends a partial water change of 25% at least once every week, using a siphon to lift solid waste from the gravel, and testing at least once a week so that ammonia and nitrite never build up. Treat new water with a tap water conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine. When the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap; rinse it lightly in water taken out during the change, which saves more of the beneficial bacteria. Our angelfish care guide treats that 25% as a starting routine, adjusted by what your test results show.

The RSPCA sets out why the filter is essential: fish release toxic ammonia, and a working biological filter lets bacteria turn it into nitrite, also toxic, and then into nitrate, which is safer.

Signs of a settled, healthy fish

Look for steady swimming, regular breathing, clear eyes, open and undamaged fins, a normal body profile and consistent feeding. Clamped or damaged fins, gasping, flashing, white spots, wounds, unusual balance, isolation or a sudden change in appetite are warning signs rather than a diagnosis.

When something changes

1. Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temperature straight away, and pH where relevant.
2. Compare the results with the tank’s normal readings, and treat any detectable ammonia or nitrite as urgent.
3. Separate an affected fish only if a mature, suitable set-up is ready and the move will not add stress.
4. Photograph the signs, note when they started and seek advice from a specialist aquatic retailer or a fish vet, or contact us.
5. In the UK, use only a lawful product labelled for the species and system, following its instructions or a vet’s direction.

There is no safe universal recipe such as raising the temperature to 32°C for white spot; the right response depends on a confirmed problem, the fish, the water and an authorised product. The RSPCA’s fish health advice likewise puts visible signs and water quality first. For new arrivals joining established fish, our angelfish care guide notes Merck’s recommendation of at least 30 days’ quarantine with separate equipment.

Arrival day: film first, then float and release

Get the aquarium ready before you order: filter matured and tested, heater holding the routine band, lid in place. The fish is hand-bagged in pure oxygen and packed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and travels with a tracked courier licensed to carry live fish. You receive the tracking number and confirmed delivery date by email.

Step by step

1. Make sure someone is home to take the parcel in, because live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. Before the parcel is opened, start a continuous unboxing video that shows it still sealed with the outer box in view.
3. Keep filming as you open it in one take, so the fish can be seen in the sealed bag before anything is disturbed; the parcel needs to be opened and inspected on the day it arrives.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes to acclimatise the fish slowly before releasing it.
5. Release the angelfish into the aquarium and never pour the bag water in.
6. If there is a problem, contact us the same day, by WhatsApp for the quickest reply, with your order number and the video, and we will arrange a replacement or refund.

The full terms, including the continuous-video requirement for any claim, are on our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee page.

The first weeks

Watch for the settled signs described in the health section: steady swimming, regular breathing, open fins and consistent feeding. Keep testing ammonia and nitrite, because a new fish adds to the filter’s load. If the angelfish is joining an existing community, give it time in quarantine first, and when it moves into the display tank, watch closely for chasing by established fish or by other angelfish.

Pairs, spawning and raising fry

Angelfish spawn on vertical surfaces such as slate, broad-leaved plants or even the aquarium glass. Seriously Fish notes that a bonded pair needs little encouragement if the fish are well conditioned with live foods such as bloodworm and brine shrimp, and both parents may guard the eggs and then the fry.

What to expect

• Eggs are laid on a cleaned surface and guarded by the pair.
• Keep the adults well fed: Seriously Fish notes it is not unknown for them to eat their fry.
• Once the fry have absorbed their yolk sacs, usually after about two days, feed newly hatched brine shrimp and then move on to commercial fry food.
• Breeding can sharply increase territorial defence, so a dedicated, mature set-up is safer than a crowded community tank.

Pair choice matters, and a behavioural study cited in our care guide found serial monogamy in captivity, meaning a pair can change partners over time. Clutch size, hatching time and parenting success all vary with the fish and conditions, and preventive medication recipes play no part in a healthy spawning plan.

Telling males from females

Seriously Fish describes angelfish as quite difficult to sex: males have smaller, pointed genital papillae, but these can usually be seen only when the fish are spawning. Behaviour may be a better clue, as males are likely to be more aggressive and territorial, especially in breeding condition. OATA adds that some American cichlids show no clear difference unless breeding, and our care guide advises against using forehead shape, fin angle or temperament as a sex test for juveniles.

Plan the angelfish themselves before any other companions

Decide how many angelfish the tank will hold before choosing anything else. OATA says angelfish should be kept in groups or as a pair at minimum and that fish kept singly may become stressed. Seriously Fish notes the species may squabble with its own kind and is best kept in small groups, and FishBase describes aquarium keeping in groups of five or more, with pairs kept in smaller tanks for breeding.

Three workable plans

1. A compatible pair: a workable adult plan, provided the two fish are genuinely compatible; two fish chosen at random may fight.
2. A juvenile group: allows a pair to form naturally, but social rank changes feeding and aggression, so more fish is not automatically safer.
3. An adult group: needs substantially more space, visual barriers and close observation, plus a second tank or a realistic rehoming route before conflict begins.

Whichever plan you choose, watch feeding access, fin condition, hiding, chasing and how each fish uses the space. A fish that is persistently excluded from food or open water has a welfare problem that needs action, not time.

Adding to existing angelfish

Established angelfish remain cichlids that may defend a pair or a spawning site, so a newcomer can meet a hostile reception. Quarantine it first, have a separate tank ready before it joins the display, and watch feeding access and fin condition closely for the first weeks. If one fish is singled out repeatedly, separate it rather than waiting for the group to settle.

Pick companions too big to eat and too calm to nip

Choose tank mates by their adult size and behaviour. OATA says calmer American cichlids such as angelfish can be mixed in a robust community aquarium with larger shoaling species, while the more aggressive cichlids must be kept alone or with equally aggressive species. Seriously Fish calls angelfish good community fish but warns that they may eat small fish such as tetras.

Common candidates and clear exclusions

As a worked example, take a group of larger, robust shoaling fish. Check that their adult size puts them well beyond swallowing range, that they are not known fin-nippers, that their water needs reach into 24–27°C, and that the tank still leaves the angelfish their open water and spawning surfaces. Fail any of those and the choice is wrong for this tank.

Corydoras and bristlenose plecos are often considered because they use a different level of the tank, but each still needs checking for adult size, floor space and water needs. Larger, robust shoaling fish fit OATA’s description of a suitable community. Very small tetras, shrimp and fry remain at risk of being eaten, persistent fin-nippers damage long fins, and aggressive cichlids create chronic stress, so leave all of those out.

For a deeper look at the species, from its taxonomy to breeding behaviour, read our freshwater angelfish care guide. No companion can be promised as perfect or completely safe, because individual behaviour always plays a part.

Answers to common angelfish questions

How big does Pterophyllum scalare scal. platinum grow?

Plan for an adult of about 15 cm long that stands roughly 20–25 cm tall once the fins are included. FishBase keeps a 15 cm total-length figure alongside a 10.5 cm field record, and Seriously Fish lists 150 mm standard length. Choose the aquarium for that adult shape rather than for a young fish.

What size aquarium does Pterophyllum scalare need?

Plan around 200 litres with a footprint of about 100 × 40 cm and at least 50 cm of height for an adult pair. Seriously Fish treats a 100 × 40 × 50 cm tank as the smallest to consider, and FishBase gives a minimum aquarium size of 100 cm. OATA’s 120 litres is a general floor for a pair of smaller American cichlids, and a group needs more room than a pair.

How many angelfish should be kept together?

Keep a compatible pair or a planned group rather than a single fish. OATA advises a pair or group at minimum and notes that angelfish kept singly may become stressed, while FishBase describes aquarium keeping of Pterophyllum scalare in groups of five or more. A group needs more space than a pair and a plan to separate fish if squabbling persists.

Is Pterophyllum scalare scal. platinum suitable for beginners?

It suits a prepared keeper rather than a first tank, and the Tropical Fish Co angelfish care guide rates the species intermediate. A fully cycled aquarium that is large and tall enough, regular tests for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temperature, companions chosen for adult behaviour and a plan for aggression all need to be in place before it arrives.

What does this angelfish eat?

Give a complete cichlid pellet or granule as the staple and add frozen or freeze-dried foods such as Daphnia, brine shrimp and bloodworm for variety, as OATA advises. Feed once a day, only what is eaten within a few minutes; OATA notes that American cichlids can eat large amounts at one sitting, so overfeeding is easy.

What temperature and pH does this angelfish need?

Keep it at 24–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 5–12 dGH, the Tropical Fish Co routine target that sits inside the FishBase species values of 24–30°C, pH 6.0–8.0 and 5–13 dH. Seriously Fish gives pH 6.0–7.4, so steady water between pH 6.5 and 7.4 fits every source; above all, avoid sudden changes.

Is this angelfish aggressive, and does it nip fins?

Seriously Fish calls it a generally peaceful cichlid that may squabble with its own kind, and notes that some aggression should be expected from time to time. The bigger fin risk runs the other way: persistent fin-nippers can damage its long dorsal, anal and ventral fins, so keep them out of the tank.

Which fish can live with Pterophyllum scalare?

OATA says calmer American cichlids such as angelfish can be mixed in a robust community with larger shoaling species, and Corydoras and bristlenose plecos are often considered because they use different levels of the tank. Avoid very small fish such as small tetras, which it may eat, along with shrimp, fry, persistent fin-nippers and the more aggressive cichlids.

How does Pterophyllum scalare scal. platinum arrive alive in the UK?

Start filming a continuous unboxing video before the sealed parcel is opened, because any Live Arrival Guarantee claim needs it. Each fish is hand-bagged in pure oxygen and packed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, then carried by a tracked courier licensed for live fish. Be at the address to receive it, open and inspect it the same day, float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish, and keep the bag water out of the aquarium.

Sources

The identity, care and health guidance above draws on these public sources.

• FishBase: Pterophyllum scalare: identity, family, distribution, size records, compiled water values and wild habitat.
• Seriously Fish: Pterophyllum scalare: aquarium size, water, diet, behaviour, sexing and breeding.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes: Pterophyllum scalare: accepted name, authorship and type locality.
• OATA: How to look after American cichlids: general water, tank, feeding, maintenance and compatibility guidance.
• Kasiri, Farahi and Sudagar (2012): feed types in freshwater angelfish: controlled feeding study.
• RSPCA: choosing an aquarium for pet fish: filtration and water quality.
• RSPCA: fish health: visible health signs and escalation.