Flame Tetra Yellow (Hyphessobrycon flammeus yellow)

Decide if this small shoaling tetra fits

Flame Tetra Yellow (Hyphessobrycon flammeus) is a small freshwater American tetra in the family Acestrorhamphidae. It comes from Brazil, where the species occurs in streams and coastal river systems in the Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo regions. FishBase records a maximum length of 2.6 cm standard length. It suits a keeper who can provide a mature, filtered aquarium, a proper group and peaceful companions rather than treating its small body as a reason to use a cramped or newly set-up tank.

Wild Flame Tetras inhabit small, slow-flowing streams with clear or dark-brown water. These places may have sandy bottoms, vegetation and shade from surrounding forest. The fish form relatively numerous schools, and FishBase records competitive interactions among alpha males within those schools. Their wild diet includes small insects, worms and plant material.

The aquarium fish is described by Seriously Fish as very peaceful and suitable for a carefully researched community. Its compact size does not remove the need for swimming length: use a base of at least 60 × 30 cm, equivalent to about 54 litres, and plan for 8–10 fish or more. Keep the routine water target at 22–26°C, pH 6.5–7.5 and 5–12 dGH.

Match the fish to the aquarium

FishBase lists the wild species as Endangered and reports that it has been thought extinct in the wild. Seriously Fish notes that the species is commercially bred in several countries and that wild fish are no longer collected for the aquarium trade. These natural-history points describe the species; care in the home aquarium still centres on adequate group size, stable water and a mature biological filter.

Understand what one purchase supplies

One purchase supplies one live Flame Tetra Yellow. The scientific identity is Hyphessobrycon flammeus, while “yellow” identifies the named ornamental presentation in this offer. The 2.6 cm figure is the recorded adult planning length, not a dispatch measurement. Build the aquarium around the adult fish, its group and its swimming-space requirement from the beginning.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Flame Tetra Yellow listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Plan the purchase as part of a shoal

• Sold unit: one live fish per purchase.
• Adult planning length: 2.6 cm standard length.
• Group plan: 8–10 fish or more is the stronger species recommendation.
• Minimum footprint: 60 × 30 cm or an equivalent base, at about 54 litres.
• Routine water target: 22–26°C, pH 6.5–7.5 and 5–12 dGH.

If you already keep Flame Tetras, count the whole resident group when planning how many fish the aquarium can support. If you are starting a new group, plan the complete shoal and aquarium capacity before adding fish. Introduce livestock at a pace the mature biological filter can support rather than adding a large overall community all at the same time.

Colour intensity and body shape can differ among individual fish and between sexes, but those features are not a substitute for an explicit sex choice. Judge the offer by its species identity, sold unit and care requirements. The practical commitment is to a small but active shoaling fish that needs more space and company than its 2.6 cm adult length might initially suggest.

Plan the aquarium around floor space

Use an aquarium with a base of at least 60 × 30 cm or an equivalent footprint. Seriously Fish places that footprint at approximately 54 litres and says it should be the smallest considered for Hyphessobrycon flammeus. A tall, narrow aquarium should not replace the required horizontal swimming area merely because its total volume is similar.

Adult size and aquarium size answer different questions. The 2.6 cm maximum standard length tells you how large one fish may become, while the 60 cm swimming length allows a group to move, shoal and maintain its social interactions. Eight small fish still use the aquarium as a moving group, and their combined waste must be handled by the filter.

Check the whole plan

For an aquarium of about 54 litres, the species profile uses a turnover of four to five times the tank volume per hour and points to a filter rated around 215–270 litres per hour. Treat that rating as a starting point for this particular volume. Check that the completed layout still leaves an open swimming route and that the flow is gentle enough for a small tetra.

The same profile estimates roughly 50 W of heating for a 54-litre aquarium when the surrounding room is around 20°C. Heater choice depends on aquarium volume and room conditions, so the controlled water temperature matters more than selecting equipment from that example alone. Use a suitable thermometer to check the actual aquarium temperature.

More water can make temperature and water quality more stable, provided the aquarium remains properly filtered and maintained. Extra capacity is particularly useful when building a community, but it is not permission to add fish without considering adult size, group needs, filtration and the total biological load.

Hold water inside the shared range

Keep Flame Tetra Yellow at 22–26°C, pH 6.5–7.5 and 5–12 dGH. These routine values are the overlap of FishBase’s recorded environment, the Seriously Fish species profile and OATA’s group guidance for tetras and pencilfish. OATA also gives 3–10 dKH for carbonate hardness as group guidance.

The overlap keeps every routine value inside all three named ranges. FishBase records 22–28°C, pH 5.8–7.8 and 5–25 dGH for the species’ environment. Seriously Fish gives 20–26°C, pH 5.5–7.5 and 1–12 dGH for aquarium care. OATA gives 22–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 4–12 dGH for its wider tetra and pencilfish group.

Test the values that protect the fish

• Temperature: maintain 22–26°C.
• pH: maintain 6.5–7.5.
• General hardness: maintain 5–12 dGH.
• Carbonate hardness: use 3–10 dKH as OATA’s group planning range.
• Ammonia: keep at zero mg/l.
• Nitrite: keep at zero mg/l.
• Nitrate: do not let it exceed 20 mg/l above the normal tap-water level.

Measure the source water and the aquarium rather than choosing fish by a remembered description such as “soft” or “medium”. Our water chemistry guide explains what the main readings mean, while the water matcher helps compare measured values with this target.

Test at least weekly and write down the readings if that helps you recognise a change. Ammonia or nitrite above zero requires prompt attention to water quality and biological filtration. A reading inside the pH and hardness range does not compensate for toxic nitrogen waste, so assess those measures separately.

Use treated replacement water during maintenance. OATA advises conditioning tap water to remove chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium. Match routine conditions carefully enough that a water change maintains the planned range instead of shifting the aquarium away from it.

Mature the filter before adding fish

Run Flame Tetra Yellow in a mature aquarium with a working biological filter. The RSPCA explains that aquarium fish release toxic ammonia; filter bacteria convert it first to nitrite, which is also toxic, and then to the safer nitrate. The filter must be established and maintained so this process can keep pace with the fish and their food.

Prepare and mature the aquarium before livestock arrives. Our first tropical aquarium guide sets out that preparation in practical order. Check that ammonia and nitrite are both zero before adding fish, and confirm that temperature, pH and hardness are inside the planned range.

Increase the biological load carefully

1. Confirm that the filter is running correctly and that its media has matured.
2. Test ammonia and nitrite and proceed only when both read zero.
3. Check the aquarium’s temperature, pH and hardness against the Flame Tetra target.
4. Assess the existing fish population, the planned shoal and the aquarium’s total capacity.
5. Add livestock gradually enough for the beneficial bacterial population to adjust as waste and feeding increase.

OATA warns that stocking too quickly can cause new tank syndrome. This happens when there are too few nitrifying bacteria to process the increased waste, allowing ammonia or nitrite to rise to harmful levels. The aquarium’s age by itself is not the deciding measure; test results and an established, functioning filter show whether the system is ready.

A filter remains essential whatever décor you choose. Plants and regular water changes support good aquarium management, but they do not replace biological filtration. Check that water can move through the filter and that its intake and outlet remain clear enough to operate as intended.

Plan the whole shoal before purchase, then balance that social requirement against the pace at which the aquarium can accept extra livestock. If the aquarium already contains fish, include those residents when judging filtration, space and waste. The aim is a stable final community, not the fastest possible stocking schedule.

Shape a shaded, planted layout

Create a well-furnished aquarium with plants, shaded areas and open swimming room. Seriously Fish reports that décor is not especially critical but that Flame Tetras tend to show better colour when kept with live plants and a dark substrate. Floating vegetation and relatively dim lighting are also appreciated.

A natural-looking arrangement can use soft sand with wood roots or branches positioned to form shady places. This echoes the species’ slow-flowing Brazilian stream habitats, where FishBase records clear or dark-brown water, sandy bottoms, vegetation and shade from small forests. Keep enough open space for the shoal to travel together rather than filling the whole footprint with ornaments.

Divide the aquarium into useful areas

Dried leaf litter can strengthen a biotope-style appearance. Seriously Fish explains that decomposing leaves encourage beneficial microbe colonies, which can act as a secondary food source for fry, while tannins and other released compounds help simulate natural conditions. Leaves may break down fully or be removed and replaced every few weeks.

Use only aquarium-suitable materials and arrange wood or ornaments securely. The central decision is not whether the layout looks exactly like a wild stream; it is whether the fish have shade, cover and uninterrupted swimming room. A decorative object that blocks the main route through a small footprint works against that plan.

If live plants are not used, OATA recommends plastic plants and suitable ornaments to create shelter. Whichever approach you take, preserve access for cleaning, keep filter flow unobstructed and observe where the shoal chooses to spend its time. The final layout should support both normal schooling movement and opportunities to move into cover.

Feed a varied omnivorous diet

Feed a varied omnivorous diet built around a good-quality dried food, supplemented with suitable small live or frozen foods. FishBase records small insects, worms and plant material in the wild diet. Seriously Fish adds small invertebrates, crustaceans, filamentous algae and organic detritus, then recommends a varied aquarium menu rather than dried food alone.

A quality flake or granule can form the routine dried portion. Add items such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex in line with OATA’s tetra guidance. Seriously Fish also names mosquito larvae, Daphnia, Moina, live or frozen chironomid larvae, freeze-dried bloodworm and freeze-dried Daphnia. Choose pieces that these small fish can take readily.

Use a simple daily feeding test

1. Offer food once a day.
2. Give only the amount the fish can finish within a few minutes.
3. Watch the whole shoal so food reaches more than the boldest individuals.
4. Stop when food is no longer being taken promptly.
5. Remove persistent uneaten food where practical and review the next portion.

The time limit controls the portion rather than setting a target to keep feeding continuously for several minutes. Begin with a modest amount and observe how quickly it disappears. A varied menu means rotating suitable food types across feeds, not combining every named item in one oversized meal.

Overfeeding leaves organic material to break down and release waste into the water. That creates extra work for the biological filter and can contribute to poor water quality. If ammonia, nitrite or nitrate trends worsen, check feeding quantity alongside filtration, stocking and maintenance instead of assuming the food itself is the only issue.

Use feeding response as a daily observation point. OATA lists reduced intake or loss of interest in food among the changes that can signal a health or water-quality problem. One fish hanging back may also be affected by group interactions, so look at swimming, colour, breathing and position in the shoal at the same time.

Wild feeding information explains why variety matters, while OATA’s once-daily schedule and few-minutes portion provide the practical routine. Keep that division clear: imitate the range of animal and plant material with appropriate aquarium foods, but control quantity according to what the group consumes promptly.

Keep a consistent weekly routine

At least once every week, change 25% of the aquarium water. OATA strongly recommends this schedule and suggests using a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate. Test the water at least weekly as part of the same routine, while checking ammonia and nitrite promptly whenever fish behaviour or appearance changes.

Complete the water change safely

1. Test the aquarium and note any reading that has moved away from its usual value.
2. Siphon out 25% of the water, removing visible solid waste from accessible substrate.
3. Condition replacement tap water to remove chlorine or chloramine.
4. Add the treated replacement water while maintaining the planned aquarium conditions.
5. Check that the filter and heater are operating normally after maintenance.

The phrase “at least once every week” applies to the frequency of the 25% change. It does not turn 25% into a minimum volume for every situation. Use the regular schedule as the baseline and respond separately to any water-quality issue shown by testing.

Check the filter for blockages. When filter media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. Do not rinse it under the tap. Chlorine or chloramine may kill part of the beneficial bacterial population established in the media, reducing the filter’s biological capacity.

Avoid cleaning every part of the aquarium simply to make it look sterile. The practical goal is to remove accumulating waste while preserving a functioning biological filter. Keep water moving through the media, maintain the open swimming area and remove decaying material when it begins to interfere with cleanliness or flow.

Review the nitrate result against the normal tap-water level. OATA’s threshold is that aquarium nitrate should not exceed 20 mg/l above that baseline. If nitrate repeatedly approaches that point before the next scheduled change, reassess the total stocking, feeding, waste removal and maintenance routine.

Use the weekly session to inspect equipment and livestock together. A temperature outside 22–26°C, a blocked filter or an unexpected ammonia reading needs action even if the aquarium looks clear. Visual clarity alone does not show whether the water is chemically safe.

Follow the arrival steps in order

Prepare the mature aquarium before the parcel arrives. OATA advises checking that ammonia and nitrite are zero before introducing fish; also confirm 22–26°C, pH 6.5–7.5 and 5–12 dGH. Have the aquarium ready so the arrival procedure can move from inspection to acclimatisation without needing to correct basic conditions around a sealed bag.

The Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy explains the packing, evidence and acclimatisation steps. Fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen and placed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack used when the weather calls for it.

From sealed parcel to aquarium

1. Receive the parcel in person and start filming before opening it. Begin a continuous unboxing video while the parcel is still sealed and the outer box is visible.
2. Open and inspect it the same day. Keep filming in one continuous take and show the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
3. Check the fish while it remains in the bag. Preserve the continuous video through this inspection.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish. This is the acclimatisation period stated in the policy.
5. Keep bag water out of the aquarium. Release the fish without pouring the bag water into the tank.

Film every delivery from the sealed parcel onward. For a Live Arrival Guarantee claim, retain the short continuous video, include the order number and contact us on the same day the fish arrive. The policy requires someone to be at the delivery address to receive the parcel and the parcel to be opened and inspected that day.

After release, observe swimming, breathing, colour and position in the shoal. General settling behaviour should be judged alongside measured water quality rather than by appearance alone. Keep the aquarium inside the established routine range and avoid increasing the wider livestock population faster than the biological filter can accommodate.

Respond to changes before they escalate

Watch for a change from each fish’s usual behaviour or appearance. OATA highlights abnormal swimming, altered colour, increased aggression or hiding, changed breathing, visible growths or body damage, altered body condition and reduced feeding response. These signs do not all point to the same cause, so begin with direct observation and water testing.

If you see a change, check these points

Test ammonia and nitrite first because both should remain at zero. Check temperature against 22–26°C and review pH and hardness against the established target. Confirm that the filter is flowing and that no recent feeding, stocking or maintenance change has increased the biological load.

Observe the entire shoal rather than focusing only on the most obvious fish. A change affecting several fish at the same time gives a different practical picture from one individual being excluded during group interactions. Record when the change began and whether it follows feeding, maintenance or the introduction of livestock.

Do not add a disease treatment merely from a general symptom list. Different problems can produce similar swimming, colour or feeding changes, while an unsuitable treatment can create another variable. Test the water, preserve clear observations and contact us for further guidance if you are concerned about livestock health.

Daily observation and weekly measurements work together. Feeding time is useful because the fish should show interest in an appropriate meal, while maintenance day provides comparable readings and an equipment check. Acting on a clear change early is more useful than waiting for several signs to appear together.

Build a group that can shoal

Keep Flame Tetra Yellow in a group of 8–10 or more. Seriously Fish recommends this larger species group because the fish form temporary dominance hierarchies, with males competing for female attention; it reports more interesting behaviour and better colour when the fish are maintained in numbers. FishBase gives five or more as an aquarium minimum, while OATA says tetras should be kept in groups of at least five and that more is better.

Use 8–10 as the stronger planning recommendation rather than stopping at the lowest number mentioned. A group of eight is the practical floor used in the care specification, and ten or more can be considered when aquarium space, filtration and the wider community allow it. Do not add more fish than the mature system can support simply to reach a larger visual shoal.

Interpret social behaviour in context

• Schooling: FishBase records relatively numerous schools in the wild.
• Hierarchy: Seriously Fish describes temporary dominance structures within the group.
• Male interaction: FishBase records agonistic interactions among alpha males.
• Small-group stress: OATA warns that tetras kept singly or in groups that are too small will often become stressed.

Brief competitive displays should be assessed differently from persistent injury or exclusion, but do not assume that every chase is harmless. Look for damaged fins, a fish being prevented from feeding, continued hiding, loss of condition or an individual pushed away from the group. These are reasons to review group size, footprint, cover and the wider stocking plan.

Provide plants and shady places without breaking up all open swimming space. Cover gives fish somewhere to move away from an interaction, while the 60 cm aquarium length preserves room for the shoal. The layout, group size and community choice therefore work together rather than acting as separate solutions.

When adding Flame Tetras to an established group, assess the final total rather than treating each fish as an isolated purchase. Check that the filter can manage the increased feeding and waste, and add livestock at a pace that avoids new tank syndrome. The desired result is a stable shoal within a stable aquarium.

Screen every community companion

Choose similarly sized fish with a peaceful temperament and compatible water requirements. Seriously Fish describes Flame Tetra as very peaceful and names similarly sized characids, gasteropelecids and lebiasinids as potential companions. It also lists smaller callichthyid or loricariid catfishes and non-predatory, small-to-medium-sized cichlids.

Avoid fish large enough to eat a small tetra. OATA gives this as a direct restriction for smaller tetra species. Do not use a calm juvenile appearance to overlook the adult size or feeding behaviour of a proposed companion.

Use this compatibility screen

The named companion groups are candidates, not automatic matches. Species within the same broad group can differ in adult size, behaviour and water requirements. Research the exact companion and assess the aquarium’s dimensions, décor and resident population before combining it with Hyphessobrycon flammeus.

Compatibility with shrimp, snails or other animals outside the named fish groups requires an individual assessment of adult size, predatory behaviour and water needs. The fish’s peaceful description does not by itself settle how it will interact with every invertebrate. For a stocking and compatibility assessment, contact us with the aquarium dimensions, measured water values, current livestock and proposed additions.

After introduction, monitor feeding access, swimming position, hiding, damaged fins and changes in aggression. If a resident begins treating the tetra as prey, separate the incompatible animals. If the issue is competition or repeated displacement, reassess group numbers, swimming room and cover rather than adding more livestock without a clear plan.

Answer common Flame Tetra questions

How big does Flame Tetra Yellow grow?

FishBase records a maximum of 2.6 cm standard length for Hyphessobrycon flammeus. Plan the aquarium around that adult figure and the needs of the whole shoal.

What size aquarium does this fish need?

Use a base of at least 60 × 30 cm or an equivalent footprint. Seriously Fish places that aquarium at approximately 54 litres and says it should be the smallest considered.

How many Hyphessobrycon flammeus should I keep?

Keep 8–10 fish or more. Seriously Fish recommends this larger group, while FishBase and OATA both give five or more as the lower group figure.

Is this fish suitable for a beginner?

A first-time keeper should choose it only after preparing a mature, filtered aquarium of at least 60 × 30 cm, testing the water and planning a group of 8–10 or more.

What does Flame Tetra Yellow eat?

Feed good-quality flake or granules once daily, giving only what the fish finish within a few minutes. Add variety with small live or frozen foods such as daphnia, bloodworm or tubifex.

What temperature and pH does Flame Tetra Yellow need?

Keep it at 22–26°C, pH 6.5–7.5 and 5–12 dGH. These values are the overlap of FishBase’s recorded environment, Seriously Fish species guidance and OATA tetra guidance.

Is it aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Seriously Fish describes it as very peaceful. FishBase records competitive interactions among alpha males within schools, so provide 8–10 fish or more, adequate swimming room and planted cover.

Which fish can live with Hyphessobrycon flammeus?

Consider similarly sized characids, gasteropelecids, lebiasinids, smaller callichthyid or loricariid catfishes and non-predatory small-to-medium cichlids. Avoid fish large enough to eat it.

How does this fish arrive alive in the UK?

Tropical Fish Co’s policy says fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen and packed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when weather calls for it. Receive the parcel in person, film it continuously from sealed, inspect it the same day and float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release.

Check the public references

• FishBase — Hyphessobrycon flammeus: identity, family, distribution, maximum recorded length, environment, wild diet, schooling and conservation status.
• Seriously Fish — Hyphessobrycon flammeus: aquarium footprint, water range, filtration, décor, diet, behaviour and named companion groups.
• OATA — How to look after tetras and pencilfish: group husbandry, feeding, maintenance, water quality and introduction guidance.
• RSPCA — Aquarium environment: biological filtration and aquarium waste processing.