Assorted Peacock Cichlids (Aulonocara mix)

Understand what this assorted peacock cichlid is

Assorted Peacock Cichlids (Aulonocara sp.) are freshwater haplochromine cichlids drawn from an Aulonocara mix. The Aulonocara genus is endemic to Lake Malawi in East Africa, and its members are known in the aquarium hobby as peacock cichlids, aulonocaras or peacocks. This fish suits a keeper who can maintain hard, alkaline water, use substantial biological filtration and plan a Malawi community around aggression rather than treating it as a general peaceful community fish.

Plan the aquarium around the mix rather than assuming every fish will develop the same size, colour or behaviour. Keep this animal at 24–28°C, pH 7.5–8.5 and general hardness of 10–20°dH. OATA’s broad African Malawi cichlid guidance gives 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6, general hardness of 12–18°dH and carbonate hardness of 10–15°dKH for the group. It also says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and recommends at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized community.

These are colourful but aggressive cichlids and should be mixed with caution. A larger aquarium gives the filter more water volume to work with and makes temperature and water quality more stable. It also creates more scope for separate visual boundaries, open swimming areas and secure shelters. Their care is straightforward only when those foundations are already in place.

Choose the dispatch size and plan for growth

One purchase supplies one fish in the size selected on the live selector. The labelled choices are 3 - 4 cm, 4 - 5 cm, 5-7 cm, 7 - 9 cm and 9 - 13 cm. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Treat each measurement as a dispatch size and leave room for continued growth after the fish enters the aquarium.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Assorted Peacock Cichlids listing has no sex-guaranteed option. Aulonocara is strongly sexually dichromic as a genus. OATA also notes that many Malawi cichlids only show differences between sexes once they become adults, not as juveniles.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal. Use the image to understand the general cichlid shape and presentation, not to select a particular colour pattern, sex or individual fish.

Make the size decision practical

• Check the aquarium first: confirm that its temperature, pH and hardness already match the Malawi range.
• Review the existing residents: assess every fish for water requirements and aggression before adding another cichlid.
• Allow for growth: do not use the dispatch measurement as the aquarium’s long-term space calculation.
• Protect the filter: add livestock gradually because every additional fish and feeding increases the biological load.

An assorted selection does not create a controlled male-to-female ratio or a known set of species. Build the stocking plan around the aquarium’s total population, the behaviour already visible and the ability to separate a fish if aggression becomes concentrated.

Plan enough space for a Malawi community

Use an aquarium of at least 200 litres when planning a reasonable-sized Malawi cichlid community. This is OATA’s group recommendation rather than a minimum calculated for one named Aulonocara species. Choose a larger aquarium where possible because the additional volume improves environmental stability and gives you more scope to arrange territories and swimming space.

Work through the stocking calculation

• Count every resident: the 200-litre recommendation applies to a reasonable-sized community, not an unlimited population.
• Include filtration capacity: crowded Malawi communities place a heavy load on the biological filter.
• Keep an intervention route: arrange the aquarium so a persistently targeted fish can be removed safely.

Malawi cichlids are not social fish in the manner of a peaceful shoal, yet OATA says they can be kept in groups of at least 15 and a slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly. That approach requires an oversized filter, strong aeration and close observation; it must not be reduced to adding fish until aggression appears lower. Small groups often fight, so a single extra fish can become the focus of repeated chasing.

If this is your first aquarium, prepare and mature it before livestock arrives by following our first tropical aquarium guide. A working mature filter and stable test results must come before the stocking plan.

Keep the water hard, alkaline and stable

Keep the aquarium at 24–28°C, pH 7.5–8.5 and general hardness 10–20°dH. Maintain ammonia at zero mg/l and nitrite at zero mg/l. OATA’s broad Malawi group guidance gives carbonate hardness of 10–15°dKH and says nitrate should not exceed 20 mg/l above the normal level in the tap water used for the aquarium.

Do not choose a single temperature and then ignore the remaining values. A heater can hold temperature while pH, hardness or nitrogen waste moves outside the intended range. Test the aquarium with suitable kits and record the results so gradual changes can be noticed before they become abrupt problems. Our water chemistry guide explains what the principal aquarium measurements mean.

Use the numbers together

1. Measure the aquarium’s temperature, pH, general hardness and carbonate hardness.
2. Confirm ammonia and nitrite are both zero before adding the fish.
3. Compare the readings with the stated Malawi ranges using the water matcher.
4. Test the replacement tap water so a water change does not create a sudden shift.
5. Correct the preparation process before introducing livestock rather than expecting the fish to tolerate unsuitable water.

Coral sand or a similar substrate can help buffer the water, but it does not replace measurement. The buffering effect, tap-water chemistry, aquarium décor and maintenance routine all influence the readings that matter to the fish.

Consistency matters within the range. There is no benefit in repeatedly moving stable readings between the lower and upper limits. If a reading begins to drift, check the replacement water, accumulated waste, maintenance interval and buffering material before making abrupt adjustments.

Build filtration and aeration for the bioload

Run a well-established filter continuously and choose oversized filtration for a Malawi community. OATA recommends this because the crowded stocking approach used to spread aggression also produces a substantial waste load. Strong aeration is recommended to maintain sufficient dissolved oxygen.

The RSPCA explains why biological filtration is vital: fish release toxic ammonia, beneficial filter bacteria convert it to nitrite, and further bacteria convert nitrite to the safer nitrate. A filter is therefore a living waste-processing system, not simply a device that removes visible particles.

Protect the filter bacteria

• Check flow: inspect the filter for blockages and investigate any clear reduction in circulation.
• Clean gently: rinse filter media lightly in aquarium water removed during a partial water change.
• Keep it away from the tap: do not run filter media under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacteria.
• Treat replacement water: use tap-water conditioner before adding new water to the aquarium.
• Increase stocking slowly: beneficial bacteria need time to respond when more fish and food increase the waste load.

Clear water does not by itself show that filtration is adequate. Ammonia and nitrite are invisible, so weekly testing is part of filter management. A reading above zero requires prompt attention to stocking, feeding and filter function.

Surface movement and aeration must remain effective across the whole aquarium. Rockwork and décor should not obstruct circulation or create large areas where waste accumulates. Use the weekly water change to siphon solid debris from accessible parts of the substrate while leaving the biological filter intact.

If fish gather at the surface or their gill covers move faster than normal, test the water and check aeration immediately. Those signs call for a water-quality assessment rather than an automatic feeding or medication response.

Arrange secure rocks, substrate and open water

Use coral sand or a similar buffering substrate and arrange secure décor that cannot collapse when the fish dig or rearrange the bottom. Digging will uproot any plants present, so use only hardy plants that can withstand that activity. Keep substantial open water between structured areas rather than filling the entire aquarium with rock.

Every piece of décor must be stable before water and fish are added. Place heavy structures securely and check that digging cannot undermine them. A loose pile may shift when a fish moves substrate beneath its base, creating an avoidable crushing or entrapment risk.

Give the layout four jobs

A practical layout makes observation easier. You should be able to see whether every fish is swimming normally, reaching food and emerging from shelter. A cave that permanently hides a stressed fish from view can delay recognition of a problem, so inspect all occupied areas during daily checks.

Expect some rearrangement of the substrate. Keep filter intakes, heater equipment and circulation routes clear as the fish dig. After maintenance, confirm that no shifted sand has restricted an intake or buried equipment that must remain exposed to flowing water.

Rearranging décor can help when established territories are causing aggression because all fish then have to reassess the layout. Make changes deliberately, keep structures stable and observe the community afterwards. Décor changes support the stocking plan; they cannot make unsuitable companions or an undersized aquarium safe.

Feed small, controlled portions twice a day

Use a varied omnivorous cichlid routine based on a suitable cichlid pellet with appropriately chosen frozen foods. Feed only what the fish can consume within a few minutes, twice a day. Remove uneaten food rather than allowing it to break down in the aquarium.

OATA notes that Malawi cichlid diets vary across the group. Smaller mbuna species are more herbivorous, while some larger open-water types may be more predatory and will require pellets with more animal content and frozen foods such as brine shrimp, prawns or cockles. For an assorted Aulonocara mix, assess the actual fish and the rest of the Malawi community before choosing how plant-rich or animal-rich the staple should be.

Judge the portion by the result

• Food remains after a few minutes: reduce the next portion and remove the leftovers.
• One fish takes most of the food: spread suitable food across more than one feeding point while watching the group.
• A fish loses interest: test water quality and check its breathing, swimming and social position.
• Waste rises after feeding: reduce the portion and confirm that filtration is functioning correctly.

Do not use appetite alone to decide the amount. Enthusiastic fish may continue taking food beyond the quantity the aquarium can process safely. Repeated overfeeding leaves uneaten material and extra fish waste, increasing the pressure on the biological filter.

Keep the feeding schedule consistent enough that changes are obvious. A fish that usually feeds readily but suddenly hangs back, hides or spits food out needs observation and water testing. Compare its body condition over time rather than reacting to one missed mouthful.

Frozen foods should be part of a controlled varied diet, not an excuse for larger portions. Offer only an amount that the community clears promptly and avoid letting fragments settle behind rockwork where they cannot be siphoned out.

Follow a measured weekly maintenance routine

Change 25% of the aquarium water at least once every week. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate, particularly from areas where circulation allows debris to settle.

Test ammonia and nitrite at least once per week and keep both at zero mg/l. Include nitrate, temperature and pH in the regular checks, then test hardness often enough to notice any drift from the intended Malawi range. Written readings make trends easier to recognise than memory alone.

Complete the routine in a safe order

1. Test the aquarium and note the results before disturbing the substrate.
2. Prepare replacement water with tap-water conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine.
3. Siphon approximately 25% of the water while removing accessible solid waste.
4. Use some removed aquarium water to rinse filter media lightly if cleaning is needed.
5. Refill without creating an abrupt temperature or chemistry change.
6. Check the filter flow, aeration, heater operation and stability of the décor.

Do not rinse the filter under the tap. Protecting its bacteria is essential because those organisms process ammonia and nitrite. Avoid replacing all biological media at once, and do not combine unnecessary deep cleaning with a major increase in livestock.

During the first month after adding a fish, compare the weekly results with the baseline taken before arrival. If ammonia or nitrite rises above zero, pause further additions, check the filter and reduce avoidable waste. Stocking too quickly can overwhelm the available nitrifying bacteria and cause new tank syndrome.

Nitrate is interpreted against the normal level in the tap water: OATA says it should not exceed 20 mg/l above that baseline. Test the tap source periodically because its starting value can change. The goal is a repeatable routine that holds the aquarium steady, not a dramatic clean followed by weeks without attention.

Receive and acclimatise the fish in the right order

Prepare the aquarium before the parcel arrives: confirm 24–28°C, suitable hard alkaline water, zero ammonia, zero nitrite and effective filtration. Someone must be at the address to receive live fish, and the parcel must be opened and inspected on the day it arrives.

Follow the arrival sequence

1. Start filming before opening: record the parcel while it is still sealed with the outer box visible.
2. Open it continuously: keep filming in one take until the fish can be seen inside the sealed bag.
3. Inspect before disturbing the bag: the recording should show the fish’s condition while it remains sealed.
4. Float the bag: acclimatise slowly by floating the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Release the fish: move the fish into the prepared aquarium without pouring bag water into the tank.

Tropical Fish Co hand-bags fish in pure oxygen and uses an insulated poly box, adding a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel. Read the current delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy before the arrival day so the receiving and claim requirements are understood.

After release, observe swimming, breathing and how the existing residents respond. OATA recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups to reduce the chance of one newcomer receiving all the aggression as the fish settle. It also advises introducing more peaceful species before more aggressive ones. Apply those principles to the wider stocking plan rather than repeatedly adding isolated fish.

During the first week, check ammonia and nitrite whenever behaviour changes and continue the normal feeding limit. Do not compensate for a hesitant feeding response by adding extra food. Watch whether the newcomer can reach food, use open water and withdraw from conflict without remaining pinned in one place.

Respond early to health and behaviour changes

Check every fish daily for clear bright eyes, intact scales, undamaged fins and appropriate swimming. Compare each animal with its own normal appearance and behaviour because changes are often more useful than a single fixed description.

Match each sign to the first action

Water testing comes before guessing at a disease or treatment. Even small amounts of ammonia can stress Malawi cichlids, while nitrite must also remain at zero. Correct a filter, aeration or maintenance problem promptly rather than masking the sign.

Fin damage can indicate conflict as well as poor condition. Identify which fish is chasing, where the encounters happen and whether the targeted animal can leave the aggressor’s line of sight. Reassess the population and décor instead of assuming wounds will resolve while the same pressure continues.

If a health change continues after the immediate water and equipment checks, contact us for guidance with the test results, photographs where useful and a concise description of the fish’s behaviour. Do not begin an unselected medication merely because a symptom resembles a familiar condition.

Screen every potential companion before stocking

Keep this fish only with other Malawi cichlids or with a carefully screened species of Synodontis catfish that shares the required conditions. OATA limits Malawi cichlid compatibility to those categories, but that boundary does not make every Malawi cichlid or every Synodontis automatically suitable.

Avoid fish outside those categories. Soft-water community fish, general tropical assortments and companions chosen only for colour are not suitable. The aquarium must serve the water, space and behavioural requirements of every resident at the same time.

Use four checks for each proposed fish

• Water: it must tolerate 24–28°C, pH 7.5–8.5 and hard water.
• Population: adding it must fit the total community and the filter’s biological capacity.
• Behaviour: its aggression must be manageable alongside every established resident.
• Introduction: there must be a plan for adding it without leaving one newcomer exposed to concentrated aggression.

Do not rely on labels such as peacock, hap or mbuna as a complete compatibility decision. OATA says Malawi cichlids are all aggressive and should be mixed with caution. Individual behaviour and the aquarium’s existing social pressure still matter.

An assorted Aulonocara purchase does not identify a controlled species group or sex ratio. Where possible, OATA recommends more females than males of each species to reduce the chance of males harassing one female.

For a stocking and compatibility assessment, contact us with the aquarium volume, measured water values, current species and numbers, approximate fish sizes and a photograph of the layout. Browse the African cichlid collection for comparison, but screen each candidate individually before treating it as a companion.

Manage aggression during introductions and growth

Treat aggression as an expected Malawi-cichlid management issue. OATA says these fish are all aggressive, small groups often fight, and a slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly throughout the population. That method only belongs in a suitably large aquarium with oversized filtration, strong aeration and a deliberate stocking plan.

Add fish gradually enough for the filter bacteria to respond to increased waste, but plan social introductions so one isolated newcomer does not receive all the attention. OATA recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups, introducing more peaceful species first and more aggressive species later.

Intervene according to what you see

• Brief display with both fish able to withdraw: continue close observation and check that each fish feeds.
• Repeated chasing focused on one fish: reassess the population, shelters and lines of sight immediately.
• A fish trapped at the surface or in one corner: separate it from the pressure rather than waiting for injuries.
• New territories after a change: monitor the entire community because aggression may move to a different target.
• Filter readings worsen after additions: stop adding livestock and restore zero ammonia and nitrite.

Rearranging aquarium décor can reduce aggression by forcing fish to establish territories again. Keep every rock secure and retain open swimming room. A layout change is useful when territories are the problem, but it cannot make an incompatible species, poor water match or inadequate aquarium volume appropriate.

Check compatibility again as the fish grow. Continue recording injuries, hiding, feeding access and chasing rather than judging success only by whether every fish remains visible.

Some Malawi communities function with the group approach OATA describes; others require removal of a persistent aggressor or protection of a targeted fish. Keep that intervention capacity available before adding another animal.

Answer common questions before choosing this fish

What size of Assorted Peacock Cichlids will I receive?

Choose from 3–4 cm, 4–5 cm, 5–7 cm, 7–9 cm and 9–13 cm dispatch sizes. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size.

What size aquarium does this fish need?

Use at least 200 litres for a reasonable-sized Malawi community. OATA recommends choosing a larger aquarium where possible because greater water volume improves environmental stability.

How many Assorted Peacock Cichlids should I keep together?

OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and that small groups often fight. An assorted purchase does not create a controlled species or sex group, so assess the full population before adding fish.

Is this fish suitable for a beginner?

It can suit a beginner prepared to maintain 24–28°C, pH 7.5–8.5, hard water, zero ammonia and zero nitrite. OATA calls Malawi cichlids usually easy to keep but also aggressive and specialised in their water requirements.

What do Assorted Peacock Cichlids eat?

Feed a varied omnivorous cichlid diet using a suitable pellet and appropriately chosen frozen foods. OATA says Malawi diets vary, but portions should always be limited to what the fish consume within a few minutes, twice daily.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 24–28°C and pH 7.5–8.5, with general hardness of 10–20°dH. Keep each reading stable within these ranges.

Are Assorted Peacock Cichlids aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Treat aggression as the practical risk: OATA says Malawi cichlids are all aggressive and small groups often fight. Watch for chasing, damaged fins, hiding and any fish being trapped away from food.

What fish can live with this fish?

OATA limits companions to other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis catfish. Screen every candidate for the same hard alkaline water, available space and manageable aggression; these categories are not universal compatibility guarantees.

How do Assorted Peacock Cichlids arrive alive in the UK?

Tropical Fish Co hand-bags fish in pure oxygen, uses an insulated poly box and adds a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel, which must be received, filmed from sealed and inspected that day.

Consult the care references

• Wikipedia: Aulonocara — genus range, hobby names, sexual dichromism and maternal mouthbrooding.
• OATA: How to look after African Malawi cichlids — water, space, feeding, maintenance, aggression and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance — biological filtration and aquarium waste processing.