Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara korneliae)

Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid is the aquarium-trade name used here for Aulonocara korneliae, a compact peacock cichlid from Lake Malawi. Mature males can develop a cool blue body with yellow-gold detail through the fins and lower flanks, while juveniles, females and subordinate males are normally more subdued. It is a beautiful fish, but the right reason to choose it is not colour alone: it needs hard, alkaline water, a mature biological filter, a sand-and-rock layout and companions selected for Malawi conditions.

This listing offers one fish in the selected size grade. Size describes the supplied grade, not a promise of sex, exact colour or an exact measurement to the millimetre. Four grades may be shown when available: 4-5 cm, 6-7 cm, 7-9 cm and XL. Check the live selector for the grade that can currently be ordered. For more species in the same group, browse our Peacock Cichlids collection; for the wider planning context, use the Lake Malawi cichlid guide.

What exactly is Aulonocara korneliae?

Aulonocara korneliae is a valid species in the genus Aulonocara, the Lake Malawi cichlids commonly called peacocks. FishBase records it as a freshwater, benthopelagic species endemic to Chizumulu Island. The scientific record also reports a maximum of 7.8 cm standard length and describes fish associated with rocky habitat that forage over sand for sand-dwelling invertebrates. These points matter in an aquarium because they explain the fish's relatively compact build, its need for both rock structure and open sand, and why a generic algae-grazing Mbuna diet is not the best model.

The name Chizumulu Peacock refers to the island around which the species occurs. "Blue-Gold" is a useful trade description of a mature male's colour, not a separate scientific species and not a guarantee that every young fish will arrive fully coloured. The supplier identity and our taxonomic checks agree on Aulonocara korneliae. We do not attach an unverified collection locality, captive generation or sex to an individual fish when that information has not been supplied.

Listing term	What it means	What it does not promise
Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid	Recognised aquarium-trade name for this listing	Identical colour in every age, sex or social position
Aulonocara korneliae	Valid scientific species name	A documented wild collection site for the individual supplied
Selected size grade	The approximate dispatch grade chosen in the selector	A sexed pair, guaranteed male or exact adult size
XL	The supplier's largest retail grade when available	A fixed centimetre measurement unless the selector states one

Before choosing this Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid

This is a specialist community fish rather than a general tropical-community choice. It should not be added to a soft, acidic tetra aquarium simply because the temperature overlaps. The biological filter must already be functioning, the water chemistry must be suitable for Lake Malawi fish, and the hardscape must give fish a way to leave each other's sight. A buyer should also have a plan for adult stocking rather than sizing the aquarium around the juvenile in the bag.

One unit is one fish in the selected grade. Unless the live variant explicitly says otherwise, the fish is not sold as sexed. Young Aulonocara can be difficult to sex confidently from colour alone, and transport or social stress can suppress colour. Two fish are therefore two unsexed fish, not a confirmed pair. If sex composition is central to a breeding plan, allow the fish to mature and keep a separation option available.

Chizumulu Island habitat and natural feeding behaviour

FishBase describes Aulonocara korneliae from rocky habitat around Chizumulu Island, with fish moving over sand to feed on sand-dwelling invertebrates. This rock-and-sand transition is more useful to copy than a decorative theme. In practice, build secure rock groups that interrupt sightlines, leave open sand where fish can move and forage, and retain clear swimming space through the middle of the aquarium.

Peacock cichlids are notable for enlarged sensory canals and pores around the head. Peer-reviewed work on the related Aulonocara stuartgranti shows how this system helps peacocks detect movements made by buried invertebrate prey. We use that research as genus-level context, not as proof that every captive A. korneliae behaves identically. It does, however, support the practical value of fine sand and a feeding routine that allows some food to descend rather than keeping every mouthful at the surface.

Wood is not required to imitate this Lake Malawi habitat, and some wood can gradually affect water chemistry. Rock intended for aquarium use is the more natural structural material. Every piece should be stable before the fish enters the aquarium: place the main supports securely, prevent digging from undermining them and avoid narrow gaps in which a startled cichlid could become trapped.

Colour, markings and male-female differences

Mature display males are the source of the Blue-Gold name. They may show blue across the face and body, darker vertical bars according to mood, and yellow or gold detail in the dorsal, caudal, pelvic and anal fins. Colour changes with maturity, hierarchy, lighting, background, condition and stress. A fish that is pale on arrival is not automatically unhealthy, and a juvenile should not be expected to match a settled adult photographed in display condition.

Females and immature fish are generally less colourful, often showing grey-brown or muted blue tones. No single colour clue gives a perfect juvenile sex diagnosis. Venting mature fish is more dependable in experienced hands, but unnecessary handling can cause harm. Unless a variant is explicitly offered as sexed, plan as though sex is unknown.

The four gallery views show the characteristic blue body and yellow fin detail from different angles. They are representative images rather than photographs of the exact fish dispatched. Natural variation is expected, and fins or colour may look temporarily reduced after transport. Good condition is better judged from clear eyes, intact skin, steady balance, normal respiration and a willingness to settle and feed after acclimation.

Adult size and how to read the size options

The scientific maximum reported by FishBase is 7.8 cm standard length. Standard length is measured from the snout to the base of the tail, so it is not the same as the total nose-to-tail measurement seen by an aquarist. The supplier uses the same 7.8 cm maximum in its care record while also offering graded retail sizes, including 7-9 cm and an XL grade. The apparent difference is most reasonably explained by measurement method and commercial grading, so the listing states both instead of replacing one with an unsupported round 10 cm claim.

Option	What you are selecting	Planning note
4-5 cm	One small juvenile-grade fish	Colour and sex may be undeveloped
6-7 cm	One larger juvenile or subadult-grade fish	More development may be visible, but sex is not guaranteed
7-9 cm	One large grade	Commercial length can overlap or exceed published standard length
XL	One fish in the supplier's largest grade	Check availability; XL is a grade, not a promised exact length

Choose the grade that fits the existing stock safely. A very small fish can be intimidated or outcompeted by established adults, while a large new male can immediately alter the social hierarchy. Similar body size at introduction is often more important than buying the largest fish available. Keep a divider or spare mature aquarium ready if a new arrival is persistently targeted.

Aquarium size, footprint and layout

Use litres as a floor, not the whole stocking plan

Around 150 litres is a cautious lower planning floor for a modest, species-focused arrangement, not a universal biological threshold. A longer footprint and a larger volume are more forgiving, particularly for a group or a mixed peacock display. In many homes, 180-240 litres or more gives much better scope for separate visual territories, stable water and a sensible group. The correct final size depends on footprint, number of fish, sex composition, companion species, filtration and the aquarist's ability to separate a problem individual.

Tank length and uninterrupted floor area matter because cichlids interact horizontally. A tall narrow aquarium can hold the same litres as a long tank but offer far less usable territory. Plan the adult community on paper before purchase: list each species' adult size, likely social role and water requirements, then make sure the combined plan leaves open swimming room rather than filling every space with rock or fish.

Sand, rock and sight breaks

Use smooth fine sand or a similarly safe substrate that does not damage the mouth during foraging. Build two or more stable rock groups instead of one continuous wall. Gaps, offset faces and changes in height let a chased fish leave view; a single open arena allows a dominant male to monitor the whole aquarium. Keep a broad sand area at the front or centre and enough open water for normal cruising.

Plants are optional. If used, choose robust species that tolerate hard alkaline water and attach epiphytes securely to decor rather than relying on delicate rooted stems. Do not add fertiliser simply to solve an algae problem. Algae is better addressed through lighting, feeding, nutrient export and maintenance, while a Malawi aquarium can be healthy without dense planting.

Filtration, flow and oxygen

Use biological filtration sized for the full adult stocking level, not just today's juvenile biomass. The return should move water through and around the rockwork without pinning fish in a constant jet. Surface movement is valuable because it improves gas exchange, particularly in warm, alkaline water. Protect heater and intake positions from rock movement and check that waste is not accumulating in dead areas behind the hardscape.

Mechanical media catches solid waste; biological media houses the organisms that process ammonia and nitrite. Rinse reusable media in removed aquarium water when flow declines, and avoid replacing all biological media at once. A clear tank is not automatically a cycled tank, because the most important filtration work is microscopic.

Water parameters and stable maintenance

The supplier's working range is 24-26°C, pH 7.0-8.5 and 10-30 dGH. FishBase gives a broader environmental temperature of 23-27°C. For this stock, 24-26°C is the clearest day-to-day target: it sits inside both records and avoids turning the broadest tolerance figure into a goal. Stability and clean water matter more than pushing temperature or pH to the edge of a range.

Measure	Planning value	How to use it
Temperature	24-26°C	Keep stable with a guarded, correctly sized heater and separate thermometer
pH	7.0-8.5	Know the tap-water baseline; avoid rapid chemical correction
General hardness	10-30 dGH	Use mineral-consistent source water rather than guessing from pH alone
Ammonia / nitrite	0 mg/L	Any detectable result needs immediate investigation and corrective action
Nitrate	Control through testing and water changes	Follow the trend in your aquarium rather than relying on appearance

Cycle by evidence, not a calendar

An aquarium is ready when its biological filter can process a known ammonia input to zero ammonia and zero nitrite within the tested interval, not simply when a set number of weeks has passed. Establish the filter without livestock, test with a liquid kit and verify the result before ordering. The cichlid care guide gives broader setup context, but the tests from the actual aquarium remain decisive.

Routine maintenance

Set the water-change schedule from nitrate trend, stocking and feeding. Match replacement water for temperature and mineral character, use dechlorinator for the full replacement volume where required, and avoid large sudden chemistry swings. Siphon exposed waste from the sand surface and around rocks without stripping the aquarium of all mature filter biology at once.

If the source water is naturally soft, use a repeatable mineralisation plan and measure the result. Do not add random alkaline powders directly to an occupied aquarium to chase a number. A moderate stable value within the working range is safer than repeated movement between two supposedly ideal values.

Feeding a sand-foraging invertebrate specialist

In nature, this species feeds on invertebrates associated with sand. In the aquarium, use a complete, reputable food formulated for Malawi cichlids or insect/invertebrate-feeding cichlids as the nutritional base. A slow-sinking pellet is practical because it gives fish time to feed through the middle and lower water while reducing the frantic surface competition that can favour dominant individuals.

Add variety in controlled portions: frozen mysis, brine shrimp, daphnia or similarly suitable aquatic invertebrate foods can complement the staple. Rich food is not automatically better food. Large meals, fatty mammalian meat, feeder fish and constant high-protein treats increase waste and can upset digestion. Spirulina-containing foods can be part of a balanced rotation, but this peacock should not be described as an algae grazer.

Food	Role	Use
Complete slow-sinking Malawi or insect-based pellet	Staple	Measured meals appropriate to fish size
Mysis, brine shrimp or daphnia	Variety	Small portions in rotation, not the whole diet
Spirulina-containing complete food	Balanced rotation	Useful variety, especially in a mixed Malawi collection
Mammalian meat or feeder fish	Unnecessary risk	Avoid
Large uneaten meals	Water-quality load	Remove and reduce the next portion

Feed according to age, condition and competition rather than a rigid universal schedule. One or two small meals may suit most established fish, but watch whether every individual gets food and whether the abdomen remains gently rounded rather than hollow or swollen. A fish that suddenly stops eating deserves observation and water tests before more food is added.

Temperament, group planning and tank mates

Aulonocara korneliae is best described as a territorial Lake Malawi cichlid of moderate aggression. That does not mean peaceful community fish, and it does not mean constant violence. Mature males can defend display areas and pursue rivals; females and subordinate fish need enough space to move out of view. Individual behaviour and the existing hierarchy can change an otherwise sensible plan.

A fixed formula such as one male with exactly three females is not a guarantee of harmony. A species-focused group can work when the aquarium is large enough and the sex composition is known, while a single male can form part of a carefully planned mixed peacock display. More females may distribute attention, but they also add biomass and do not solve an undersized footprint. More than one mature male requires substantially more space, separated territories and a realistic separation plan.

Mixing similar Aulonocara also brings a hybridisation risk. Closely related peacock species may interbreed, and resulting juveniles should never be sold or shared as a pure species. If species integrity matters, keep a single Aulonocara species in the breeding aquarium. Browse the broader Aulonocara category for comparison, not as a promise that every species belongs together.

Companion type	Assessment	Reason
Similar-sized, moderately tempered peacocks or calmer Malawi haps	Possible with planning	Compatible chemistry, but colour, sex, territory and hybridisation still matter
Appropriate Synodontis species	Possible in sufficient space	Check adult size, diet, hiding space and water requirements species by species
Aggressive Mbuna	High risk	Persistent harassment and feeding competition can suppress peacocks
Small tetras, rasboras or delicate community fish	Avoid	Different chemistry and a strong risk of stress or predation
Ornamental shrimp and small invertebrates	Avoid	They are potential prey, not reliable companions
Soft-water South American cichlids	Avoid as a routine plan	Overlapping size does not remove the chemistry and behaviour mismatch

For related visual and husbandry comparisons, see the Red Dragon Peacock and Fort Maguire Peacock. These links help compare adult appearance and availability; they are not automatic tank-mate endorsements.

Breeding and maternal mouthbrooding

Lake Malawi haplochromine cichlids are predominantly maternal mouthbrooders, and Aulonocara follows that reproductive pattern. After spawning, the female carries developing eggs and young in her mouth. She may feed little or not at all while holding, and the throat area can look fuller. This is a biological description, not a breeding guarantee for an unsexed retail fish.

Do not buy two juveniles and assume they form a pair. Peacock cichlids do not establish a permanent pair bond in the way some substrate-spawning cichlids do. Breeding requires mature fish of the right sex, good condition, suitable social structure and low enough stress for a female to complete a brood. Incubation is better described as several weeks because temperature, species, age and condition all influence timing; it should not be treated as a fixed countdown.

Protect holding females from persistent pursuit and avoid routine netting or forced stripping unless you are experienced and have a clear welfare reason. If fry are raised, keep complete identity records and prevent crosses with other peacock species. Feed free-swimming young with appropriately sized complete fry food and small live or frozen foods while maintaining excellent water quality.

Health checks, stress and quarantine

Before adding the fish to the display, prepare a mature quarantine aquarium with matching hard-water conditions. The observation period should be long enough for your biosecurity protocol and the risks in the existing collection; a fixed number of days is not a substitute for clear feeding, normal waste, stable swimming and absence of developing symptoms. Use separate nets and siphons where possible.

Observation	First checks	Next action
Rapid breathing or surface distress	Temperature, oxygen, ammonia, nitrite and gill irritation	Increase aeration and correct water-quality emergencies; seek qualified advice
Clamped fins or persistent hiding	Bullying, chemistry change, lighting and transport stress	Reduce stress, verify parameters and provide separation if targeted
Refusal of food	Recent arrival, mouthbrooding, social stress, water quality and digestive signs	Observe the whole picture; do not keep adding rich food
Swollen abdomen or abnormal waste	Diet, constipation, internal disease and water quality	Isolate for observation and obtain a diagnosis before medication
White spots, excess mucus or flashing	Parasites, irritants and abrupt chemistry change	Quarantine, confirm the cause and treat the correct problem
Torn fins without infection	Aggression and hardscape hazards	Separate aggressor or victim and correct the territorial layout

Do not medicate the display aquarium on guesswork. Different problems can produce similar symptoms, while some treatments affect the filter or other species. Correct poor water quality immediately, document the symptoms and obtain aquatic-veterinary or experienced specialist advice when a fish is deteriorating.

UK delivery and the first days after arrival

Live-fish orders are packed and scheduled under the current postcode, weather and livestock-delivery rules. Read the delivery information before choosing a date, make sure somebody can receive the parcel, and have the aquarium ready before dispatch. Eligible livestock orders are covered by the current Live Arrival Guarantee, subject to the reporting steps and time limits shown in our returns and problem-reporting policy.

1. Check the fish and bag on arrival without exposing the fish to sudden bright light.
2. Follow the current acclimation instructions supplied for the order, matching temperature and avoiding an abrupt chemistry change.
3. Do not pour transport water into the display aquarium.
4. Release the fish with the lights subdued and give it immediate access to cover.
5. Watch respiration, balance and aggression before offering a small first meal.
6. Photograph and report an arrival problem within the policy window rather than waiting to see whether evidence disappears.

A newly transported peacock may hide or show muted colour. Keep the first hours quiet and avoid rearranging the entire aquarium around it. If established fish attack continuously, use the prepared divider or quarantine tank rather than hoping severe aggression resolves by itself.

How this peacock compares with other choices

Choice	Why consider it	Important distinction
Blue-Gold Peacock, A. korneliae	Compact valid species with blue and yellow-gold male colour	Chizumulu Island endemic; 7.8 cm reported standard length
Red Dragon Peacock	Strong red-orange ornamental colour	Trade strain rather than a direct substitute for a locality species
Fort Maguire Peacock	Another named Aulonocara option	Different species identity and adult appearance
Sulphurhead Peacock	Distinct blue-and-yellow pattern	Different species, range and conservation story
Aggressive Mbuna display	High activity and rock-focused behaviour	Usually a harsher social environment than this peacock needs

Choose by water, adult size, social plan and identity before colour. Building a collection of several similar males without considering territory or hybridisation is one of the fastest ways to turn a visually attractive plan into an unstable aquarium.

Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid FAQs

How many fish are included?

One unit is one fish in the selected 4-5 cm, 6-7 cm, 7-9 cm or XL grade. It is not a pair unless a variant explicitly says so.

Can I choose a male or female?

Not from an unsexed size grade. Juvenile colour is not a reliable guarantee, so buy only if the plan can accommodate an unknown sex.

How large does Aulonocara korneliae grow?

FishBase reports 7.8 cm maximum standard length, measured without the tail. Commercial total-length grades can therefore read larger.

What temperature should I use?

Use a stable 24-26°C for this supplied stock. FishBase records a 23-27°C environmental range, but the edge of a range is not the day-to-day target.

What pH and hardness are suitable?

The supplier gives pH 7.0-8.5 and 10-30 dGH. Keep the water consistently hard and alkaline rather than forcing rapid changes.

Is 150 litres enough?

Treat 150 litres as a cautious lower planning floor for a modest arrangement, not a guarantee. A longer 180-240 litre or larger aquarium is more practical for groups and mixed peacock communities.

Does it need sand?

Fine sand is strongly preferred because the species naturally forages over sand for invertebrates. Combine it with stable rock groups and open swimming space.

What should I feed?

Use a complete slow-sinking Malawi or insect-based cichlid food as the staple, with small portions of suitable aquatic invertebrate foods for variety.

Can it live with Mbuna?

Highly aggressive Mbuna are a risky match and can harass or outcompete peacocks. A carefully selected calmer Malawi community is usually more appropriate.

Can different peacock cichlids breed together?

Yes, closely related Aulonocara may hybridise. Keep one species in a breeding setup and never distribute hybrids as pure species.

Is it suitable for a new aquarium?

No fish should enter an uncycled aquarium. This species also needs stable hard-water chemistry and a planned cichlid community, so it is better for a prepared aquarist than a first-day setup.

How long does it live?

We do not publish a fixed species-specific lifespan because the supplier and the scientific sources checked here do not provide a defensible figure. Longevity depends on genetics, water, diet, social stress and veterinary care.

Is the fish in the gallery the exact fish sent?

No. The gallery represents the species and expected adult colour; the dispatched fish varies naturally with size, sex, maturity and condition.

Does it arrive fully coloured?

Not necessarily. Juveniles, females, subordinate males and recently transported fish can be muted. Mature dominant males usually show the strongest blue and yellow-gold detail.

Is breeding guaranteed?

No. The fish may be unsexed, and breeding depends on maturity, sex composition, condition, environment and social stability.

What should I do if there is a delivery problem?

Follow the current arrival instructions, photograph the unopened bag and fish where relevant, and report the issue within the Live Arrival Guarantee window shown in the policy.

Evidence and source notes

The core identity, distribution, habitat, feeding and maximum standard-length statements were checked against the FishBase species record. Taxonomic standing was cross-checked with the Integrated Taxonomic Information System. The sensory-feeding explanation is genus-level context from peer-reviewed research on peacock cichlid prey detection. The working water range and dispatch grades come from the current supplier record.

Scientific and supplier measurements do not always use the same method. That is why this page distinguishes 7.8 cm standard length from total-length commercial grades and labels 150 litres as a planning floor rather than a precise biological cutoff. It also avoids unsupported promises about lifespan, sex, exact colour, breeding success or a fixed number of quarantine days.

Choose the right size and prepare before ordering

Select the available size grade only after checking the existing fish, adult stocking plan and quarantine space. The current price and stock shown by the selector are the live values; they can differ by grade and change with supplier availability. The page does not place a stale "from" price in the care copy or search description.

First-time customers can use the current sitewide welcome offer shown on the website, subject to its terms. Livestock delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee eligibility depend on the current postcode, schedule, weather and reporting rules. Prepare a mature hard-water aquarium first, then choose the fish. That order of decisions protects both the new arrival and the community already in your care.