Easy to intermediate
Chocolate Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)
18–26°C · pH 6.5–8 · 30L
£13.99
Super Red Sakura Shrimp are a strong red Neocaridina davidi form for mature planted freshwater aquariums. One unsexed shrimp is supplied per quantity in the selected approximate size; colour, grade and sex vary.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Neocaridina davidi
Super Red Sakura Shrimp live in groups — 6+ keeps them settled, active and showing their best colour.
Super Red Sakura Shrimp are a strong red Neocaridina davidi form for mature planted freshwater aquariums. One unsexed shrimp is supplied per quantity in the selected approximate size; colour, grade and sex vary.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Add vibrant red colour and natural algae control to your aquarium with Cherry Shrimp. Peaceful, hardy Neocaridina ideal for planted nano tanks. Order today for UK delivery.
Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors
Super Red Sakura Shrimp are a selectively coloured form of Neocaridina davidi, the adaptable dwarf freshwater shrimp also widely known as the red cherry shrimp. Their compact size, continual grazing and rich red appearance make them especially effective in mature planted aquariums, shrimp-focused nano tanks and carefully planned peaceful communities.
One quantity buys one shrimp in the size selected above. This listing is not for a pair or a supplier pack. The current selectable sizes are approximately 1-1.5 cm and 2-2.5 cm. A starter colony of six or more is recommended for natural activity and a more resilient breeding group, and the existing quantity-pricing options can be used when building that colony.
Every animal is individual. Age, sex, genetics, condition, recent moulting, transport and aquarium surroundings can all affect apparent colour. The gallery contains representative illustrations rather than photographs of the exact shrimp dispatched, so it should be used to understand the general red form, not as a promise of identical coverage, sex, proportions or markings.
These shrimp are often described as easy because they tolerate a useful range of freshwater conditions. That does not mean they belong in a new or unstable aquarium. Their best start comes from a fully cycled, biologically mature tank with biofilm to graze, protected filtration, steady mineral-bearing water and no detectable ammonia or nitrite.
| Question | Practical answer |
|---|---|
| Accepted scientific name | Neocaridina davidi |
| Common trade names | Super Red Sakura Shrimp, Red Sakura Shrimp, red cherry shrimp |
| Sale unit | One shrimp per quantity in the selected approximate size |
| Adult size | Usually about 3 cm; females are commonly larger and fuller-bodied |
| Care level | Easy to moderate once the aquarium is mature and stable |
| Minimum aquarium | 20 litres for a carefully maintained shrimp-only setup; more water volume is easier to keep stable |
| Broad working temperature | 18-27°C |
| Practical steady target | About 20-26°C rather than prolonged high-temperature keeping |
| pH | Approximately 6.5-8.0, kept steady |
| General hardness | Approximately 4-18 dGH |
| Carbonate hardness | Approximately 3-15 dKH |
| Nitrogen waste | Ammonia 0, nitrite 0 and nitrate kept low |
| Diet | Biofilm and algae supplemented with varied shrimp food, plant matter and occasional protein |
| Social care | Peaceful colony invertebrate; start with six or more where possible |
| Expected lifespan | Often roughly 12-24 months, with temperature and care affecting the outcome |
The accepted name used here is Neocaridina davidi. Older aquarium material may call the same species Neocaridina heteropoda, while supplier data may retain wording based on Neocaridina denticulata. Those names explain older records; they are not extra species being supplied in this listing.
Red cherry shrimp is the broad familiar aquarium name for red forms of this species. Sakura, Fire Red and Super Red are trade descriptions used to communicate progressively strong red coverage, but the hobby does not have one universal grading authority applied identically by every breeder and retailer.
The selected form is intended to show strong red colour, often with more body coverage than lower cherry grades. Even within one line, however, individuals can differ. Females are commonly larger, rounder through the abdomen and deeper in colour than males. Juveniles may colour up as they mature. A shrimp close to a moult, stressed after travel or sitting under different lighting may look paler temporarily.
For that reason, Super Red describes the traded colour line rather than a guarantee that every millimetre of every shrimp will be opaque red. Neither sex nor an exact grade can be selected from this unsexed listing. Dark substrate, healthy plants, low stress and a suitable diet may make colour easier to appreciate, but they cannot rewrite genetics.
All four retained gallery images are representative illustrations. They are useful for recognising a red dwarf freshwater shrimp in a planted setting, but apparent scale, body opacity, fine anatomy and colour can be exaggerated by illustration and screen display. The image showing two shrimp does not change the sale unit: quantity one still buys one shrimp.
The smaller 1-1.5 cm selection is a juvenile or young shrimp size. Smaller shrimp can adapt well but need excellent intake protection and plenty of fine biofilm-rich surfaces. The 2-2.5 cm selection is closer to adult size and is easier to see in a planted display. Both are approximate livestock grades, not exact measurements for every individual.
A mixed-sex colony cannot be guaranteed because the shrimp are sold unsexed. Starting with six or more simply improves the chance of natural social activity and, once mature, a mixed group. It does not promise a particular sex ratio, immediate breeding or offspring of a fixed grade.
Before ordering, decide whether the aquarium is meant to preserve this red line or to display several colours. Different N. davidi colour forms can interbreed. Their descendants may be less predictable and can gradually show clearer, brownish or wild-type patterning. Keep separate colour colonies if maintaining a red line matters to you.
A 20-litre aquarium can support a small colony when it is fully cycled, sensibly stocked and maintained by someone comfortable with nano-tank stability. A larger aquarium gives more water volume, grazing area and thermal stability, which usually makes care more forgiving. The smallest possible container is not the best target.
Cycle the filter before the shrimp arrive. Then allow the aquarium time to develop a light film of microorganisms on wood, leaves, rocks, glass and plants. This mature biofilm is both a food source and a sign that the system has moved beyond the sterile new-tank stage. A tank can test cycled and still be too new to offer enough continuous grazing for a colony.
Never use shrimp to test whether a cycle is complete. Ammonia and nitrite should both read zero before livestock is introduced. Nitrate should be kept low through sensible feeding, plant growth and regular water changes. Sudden parameter swings can be as harmful as a reading that sits near one edge of the broad tolerated range.
| Measure | Broad guide | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 18-27°C; about 20-26°C is a practical steady target | Warm water accelerates metabolism and can shorten lifespan; prolonged heat also reduces oxygen margin. |
| pH | 6.5-8.0 | A stable value suited to the local water is safer than frequent chemical adjustment. |
| dGH | 4-18 | General hardness reflects calcium and magnesium availability important to normal moulting. |
| dKH | 3-15 | Carbonate hardness helps resist sudden pH movement; very low-buffer systems need experienced monitoring. |
| Ammonia / nitrite | 0 / 0 | Both are toxic and indicate that the biological system is not safely processing waste. |
| Nitrate | Low; OATA advises no more than 20 mg/L above the tap-water level | Rising nitrate often accompanies excess food, waste and insufficient maintenance. |
Published care sheets describe wide ranges because this species has been kept in many freshwater conditions. Those ranges are not an instruction to swing the aquarium between both extremes. Test the source water, choose a stable middle ground and change parameters gradually only when there is a clear husbandry reason.
Total dissolved solids can be a useful trend measure, but it does not identify which minerals are present. Two samples with the same TDS may have very different chemistry. GH, KH, pH and nitrogen-waste testing provide more useful context than aiming at an internet TDS number in isolation.
Use regular, modest water changes rather than waiting for a large correction. Match replacement water reasonably closely for temperature and mineral content, condition tap water correctly and add it gently. A rapid change in temperature, pH or hardness can cause stress even when both the old and new readings are individually within an acceptable range.
Do not assume bottled or reverse-osmosis water is automatically safer. Very soft purified water needs an appropriate shrimp remineralisation plan before use. Pure RO water without minerals is unsuitable for routine Neocaridina care.
Shrimp grow by shedding their old exoskeleton. A healthy moult may look alarming at first because the empty shell resembles a pale shrimp. Leave a clean shed exoskeleton in the aquarium unless there is a specific hygiene problem; the colony often grazes it and recovers useful minerals.
After moulting, the new shell is soft. Shrimp commonly hide until it hardens, which is why moss, wood, leaf litter and tight retreats are important even in a species-only tank. Do not dismantle the aquascape looking for a shrimp that disappears for a day or two when water tests and other animals look normal.
Repeated failed moults can be associated with unsuitable or unstable hardness, abrupt water changes, poor diet, stress or contamination. More mineral powder is not automatically the answer. Test first, review the whole maintenance history and avoid stacking supplements whose combined effect is unknown.
Excess copper and copper-based medication can be dangerous to freshwater shrimp. Use only treatments explicitly labelled for the invertebrates in the aquarium, follow the manufacturer dose and remove affected animals to a properly prepared hospital system when the treatment instructions require it.
It is also misleading to say all copper must be completely absent: copper is a biological trace element and may appear in foods or water at low levels. The practical rule is to prevent toxic exposure, avoid unverified medications and investigate the complete product label rather than relying on the front-of-pack name.
An air-driven sponge filter is a dependable choice because it provides biological filtration and grazing area without an exposed intake. An established canister or internal filter can also work when every intake gap is covered with a fine shrimp-safe pre-filter. Check that cover regularly; a loose edge can admit juveniles.
Aim for circulation that prevents stagnant waste pockets but does not tumble shrimp around the tank. Oxygen margin falls as water warms and as organic material decomposes. Surface movement should be present, especially in warm weather, but a powerful jet is unnecessary.
Clean filter media in removed aquarium water when flow drops, not under untreated tap water that may damage the bacterial community. Never replace all mature media at once. A colony depends on stable biological filtration even though the animals themselves produce relatively little waste.
Inert sand or fine gravel both work. Choose a substrate for the water chemistry you intend to maintain rather than assuming every product marketed for shrimp has the same effect. Active buffering soils can lower pH and KH; that may suit some specialist Caridina systems but is not automatically necessary for adaptable Neocaridina.
Java moss, other fine mosses, floating roots and dense stem plants offer large grazing surfaces. Wood and aquarium-safe dried leaves support microbial growth and provide cover. Introduce botanicals gradually so decomposition does not overwhelm a small aquarium.
Rinse and quarantine new plants where practical. Some nursery plants may carry pesticide residues or pest treatments that are harmless to plants but unsafe for invertebrates. Never add a plant to a stocked shrimp tank if its treatment history is uncertain.
These shrimp spend much of the day picking at biofilm, soft algae and tiny edible particles. They can help graze some surfaces, but they are not a substitute for aquarium maintenance and will not solve every type of algae. A spotless new aquarium may provide less useful food than a visually mature one.
| Food type | Role | How to use it |
|---|---|---|
| Natural biofilm | Continuous fine grazing and microbial diversity | Develop it on plants, wood, rock and leaf litter before adding the colony. |
| Complete shrimp pellet or wafer | Reliable staple supplementation | Offer a small amount the colony can gather around; remove persistent leftovers. |
| Leaf litter | Long-lasting grazing surface and shelter | Use aquarium-safe leaves in moderation and replace gradually. |
| Blanched vegetables | Occasional plant-based variety | Use a small clean piece and remove it before it fouls the water. |
| Protein-rich food | Occasional nutritional variety | Feed sparingly; excess protein food can pollute a nano tank quickly. |
| Mineral food | Dietary support where the overall system needs it | Do not use food to compensate blindly for unsuitable GH or unstable chemistry. |
Feed according to colony size and the amount of natural grazing available, not according to the packet alone. If food remains untouched for hours, reduce the next portion. If every surface has been scrubbed clean and the colony empties a small feed immediately, the system may need more safe grazing area or a modest feeding adjustment.
Powdered food can reach juveniles but is easy to overdose because much of it disappears into the aquascape. Use tiny measured amounts and watch nitrate, detritus and pest-snail growth for signs that more is entering the tank than the colony consumes.
A settled colony is active across the aquarium, using its front legs to graze almost continuously. Individuals may swim briefly after a water change or when a receptive female releases chemical cues. Constant frantic laps, climbing at the water line or a whole colony abandoning the substrate can instead indicate poor water, contamination, oxygen stress or an abrupt change and should trigger immediate testing.
They do not need a rigid shoal formation, but a group provides more natural colony activity than a solitary shrimp. Hiding is normal around moulting, after delivery and when fish are present. Dense cover gives the animals a choice to emerge rather than forcing visibility through a bare layout.
A small colony can become much larger when conditions support breeding. Plan filtration, food and maintenance for future juveniles rather than treating every new shrimp as free extra capacity.
A shrimp-only aquarium with peaceful snails is the safest way to see natural behaviour, protect juveniles and preserve the red line. Any fish large enough to take a shrimp into its mouth may eat adults, juveniles or both. A fish described as peaceful is not automatically shrimp-safe.
| Companion | Risk level | Planning note |
|---|---|---|
| Compatible peaceful snails | Low | Check water and food needs; avoid overstocking and cross-contamination from treatments. |
| Other N. davidi colour forms | Low predation, high line-mixing risk | They can interbreed, so keep colours separate when predictable red offspring matter. |
| Amano shrimp | Usually manageable | Provide enough food and space; larger Amanos may dominate a feeding spot. |
| Otocinclus | Lower fish risk, never zero | Use only in a mature aquarium large enough for their group and feeding needs. |
| Very small peaceful fish | Moderate | Adults may coexist with cover, but shrimplets are likely to be eaten. |
| Bettas, gouramis and many cichlids | High or individual-dependent | Do not rely on a calm shop-tank moment; predation can begin later. |
| Puffers, loaches, crayfish and larger predators | Unsuitable | Shrimp are natural prey or vulnerable during moulting. |
Use adult size, mouth size, feeding behaviour and individual history when assessing a community. Plants and moss reduce risk but do not remove it. Related products linked below are shopping comparisons, not a statement that every shrimp or fish shown should share one aquarium.
Once mature, females carry eggs beneath the abdomen and fan them with the swimmerets. Development commonly takes around three to four weeks, influenced by temperature and conditions. The young hatch as miniature benthic shrimp rather than passing through a free-swimming marine larval stage.
Breeding is often described as easy, but survival still depends on mature grazing surfaces, protected filter intakes, stable water and freedom from predators. Newly hatched shrimp are tiny. Moss, leaf litter and fine biofilm give them places to feed without crossing an exposed aquarium for every meal.
Do not chase faster breeding with sustained heat. Warmer water speeds metabolism, increases oxygen demand and may shorten adult lifespan; research also gives good reason not to treat high temperatures as a universal reproductive advantage. Steady moderate conditions are the safer home-aquarium goal.
Selective breeding requires more than buying a named colour. Breeders separate lines, observe mature animals and choose which offspring continue the project. A normal display colony can produce a range of red coverage, and mixing colour forms increases that variability.
Prepare the aquarium before delivery day. Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature; confirm the filter intake is protected; and make sure no recent treatment or plant addition has introduced an invertebrate risk. Dim the aquarium lights so the new arrivals have calm cover.
On arrival, follow the current livestock instructions supplied with the order and inspect the bag before opening it. Compare bag and aquarium conditions so the acclimation pace reflects the actual difference. Shrimp generally benefit from a slow, controlled transition, but leaving livestock indefinitely in opened transport water can also create problems. Do not pour transport water into the aquarium.
Move the shrimp gently with a shrimp net or suitable container and leave the lights low for the rest of the day. Avoid feeding a large meal immediately. A new shrimp may hide, appear pale or moult soon after arrival; check water and observe the whole group rather than handling it again unnecessarily.
Read the current delivery information before dispatch and keep the evidence required by the Live Arrival Guarantee and returns policy. The guarantee protects the delivery outcome under its current terms; it is not a promise that every aquarium introduction or future moult will succeed.
| Observation | Possible context | First response |
|---|---|---|
| Empty clear shrimp-shaped shell | Normal moult | Leave it for grazing if clean; check that the shrimp has cover while its new shell hardens. |
| Whole colony frantic or climbing | Water-quality, oxygen or contamination event | Test immediately, increase safe aeration and review every recent addition or change. |
| One shrimp hiding after arrival | Transport stress or an approaching/recent moult | Keep conditions quiet and stable; avoid repeated capture. |
| Repeated incomplete moults | Mineral imbalance, abrupt parameter change, diet or stress | Test GH, KH, pH and nitrogen waste; review change history before adding products. |
| Falling activity with leftover food | Overfeeding, poor water or illness | Remove leftovers, test water and inspect individuals closely. |
| Unexpected deaths after a new plant or treatment | Pesticide or medication exposure | Act as a contamination emergency and use only a response appropriate to the identified substance. |
There is no responsible one-product cure for every shrimp problem. Photograph affected animals, record test results and dates, and seek experienced aquatic-veterinary or specialist advice when losses continue. Isolate only when a prepared alternative system is safer than the established tank.
The care foundations for many N. davidi colour forms are similar, so the main purchase decision is usually visual preference and whether a separate breeding line is planned. Availability, size and exact colour vary by listing.
| Listing | Visual emphasis | Line-planning note |
|---|---|---|
| Super Red Sakura Shrimp | Strong red body coverage | This page; keep a separate colony if maintaining predictable red offspring matters. |
| Bloody Mary Shrimp | Deep translucent red trade line | Compare the actual listing images and disclosure; the names do not create a universal grade scale. |
| Orange Sakura Shrimp | Orange Sakura colour form | Similar broad care, but mixing with red forms can make descendant colour less predictable. |
| Orange Rili Shrimp | Orange and translucent Rili pattern | Pattern and coverage vary between individuals. |
| Yellow Neon Shrimp | Yellow colour line | Use a separate colony for colour-line selection. |
| Carbon Rili Shrimp | Dark and translucent Rili contrast | A visual alternative, not an instruction to mix breeding lines. |
Browse the wider freshwater shrimp collection for current sizes and stock. Check each page independently because care, adult size and reproduction differ between species even when retailers group them under aquarium shrimp.
One quantity buys one shrimp in the size selected. The two-shrimp gallery scene is representative and does not mean a pair is supplied.
Six or more is a sensible starter colony for natural activity and a better chance of both sexes, but no sex ratio or breeding result is guaranteed.
They are a selectively red trade form of Neocaridina davidi, the species commonly called red cherry shrimp. Sakura describes colour coverage rather than a separate species.
Adults are usually around 3 cm. Females are commonly larger and fuller-bodied; the selectable sizes on this listing are approximate dispatch grades.
It can support a carefully maintained shrimp-only colony when mature and sensibly stocked. More water volume is generally easier to keep stable.
Use 18-27°C as a broad working range and about 20-26°C as a practical steady target. Avoid abrupt movement and prolonged unnecessary heat.
Yes. GH helps describe calcium and magnesium availability, while KH helps explain buffering. A useful broad guide is 4-18 dGH and 3-15 dKH, kept stable.
A completed nitrogen cycle is essential but not always sufficient. Allow time for biofilm and stable plant growth before introducing a colony.
They graze biofilm and soft algae and should receive varied supplemental shrimp food, plant matter and occasional protein in portions that do not foul the water.
No. They graze some soft growth and edible films but are not a replacement for balanced lighting, nutrient control and maintenance.
Adults may coexist with carefully chosen small peaceful fish, but juveniles are vulnerable and no fish is absolutely shrimp-safe. A shrimp-only tank is safest.
They can live together, but different colour forms may interbreed and produce less predictable descendants. Keep lines separate when preserving red colour matters.
Frequency varies with age, growth, temperature and diet. Stable mineral-bearing water and safe hiding places matter more than trying to force frequent moults.
Toxic copper exposure and copper-based medicines can be dangerous. Use only treatments explicitly safe for the invertebrates present, while recognising that copper also exists biologically at trace levels.
No exact match is promised. The gallery is representative, and colour varies with genetics, sex, age, moult stage, stress, lighting and display.
It applies under the evidence and contact requirements in the current returns policy. Review that page and the delivery instructions before the order is dispatched.
Select the approximate size, then choose the number of individual shrimp required for the planned colony. Live variant stock and the checkout total remain the current source of truth. Eligible first orders can use WELCOME10 for 10% off, with checkout confirming current eligibility.
Orders travel through the current UK live-animal delivery service with the Live Arrival Guarantee subject to its published terms. No delivery day should be assumed until the checkout and dispatch communication confirm it.
This guide separates accepted taxonomy, general species biology, UK trade guidance and practical aquarium experience. It does not turn broad research ranges into a promise for every animal or aquarium.
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