Blue Turquoise Male Guppy (Poecilia reticulata)

Decide whether this guppy fits your aquarium

The Blue Turquoise Male Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) is a peaceful freshwater livebearer in the Poeciliidae family. Its native range includes Venezuela, Barbados, Trinidad, northern Brazil and the Guianas. FishBase records males or unsexed fish at up to 5 cm standard length, so use 5 cm as the adult body-length figure for this male offer. It suits a prepared beginner who can provide a mature filtered aquarium, a planned social group and stable mineral-bearing water.

Wild guppies occupy varied habitats, including vegetated springs, lakes, streams, ditches and canals. Aquarium strains retain the need for usable swimming room, cover and manageable flow even though their colours and fins have been selectively developed. This variety should therefore be planned as a guppy with broad fins, not as decoration for a small uncycled container.

Use this quick suitability screen

Plan around adult size, water and space

Plan for an adult standard length of 5 cm. Standard length measures the body without the tail fin, so a broad domestic tail can make the fish look longer without changing that figure. Seriously Fish gives 6 cm standard length for its general species profile; the 5 cm FishBase figure is used here because this offer is specifically male.

Keep the aquarium at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH. The temperature follows the Tropical Fish Co Guppy Care Guide. The pH and hardness ranges are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA. OATA’s guppy-and-molly values are group guidance, not a species-specific optimum.

Use a mature, filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long for one small guppy group under our conservative house policy. Seriously Fish describes a 45 × 30 cm base at about 41 litres, while OATA advises at least 45 litres for a small group of smaller livebearers. Length, footprint, filtration, sex mix, existing animals and water tests still decide whether any nominal volume is appropriate.

Three numbers to settle before purchase

• Adult body length: plan for 5 cm standard length.
• Social plan: aim for five or more where aquarium capacity and the sex plan allow.
• Aquarium length: use at least 60 cm rather than relying on litres alone.

Understand the exact offer

One purchase supplies one Blue Turquoise Male Guppy at a dispatch size of 3–4 cm. That dispatch measurement describes the fish sent, not its adult size; arrange the aquarium around the 5 cm adult standard length from the start. This is an individual animal rather than a ready-made social group, so choose the total quantity only after checking the aquarium’s usable space, filtration, existing occupants and population plan.

Sex is guaranteed only when the exact product or selected option explicitly states male or female. This Blue Turquoise Male Guppy listing is sold as male.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal. The blue-turquoise description identifies the selected variety, while individual pattern placement and colour intensity can differ between living fish.

Use the guppy collection to compare separately listed guppy varieties and sexes. Treat each product’s stated sex and purchase unit independently rather than assuming that several individual fish form a balanced mixed-sex group.

Keep water stable and mineral-bearing

Keep this guppy at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH. These routine values remain within the species ranges recorded by FishBase and Seriously Fish, while the pH and hardness figures are also inside OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance. Use a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater when the room cannot hold the water within range, and confirm the water temperature with an independent aquarium thermometer.

Test the source water as well as the aquarium. UK tap-water chemistry varies by area and can change when supplies are blended. Measure pH and hardness rather than judging them from location or appearance, then use our water chemistry guide to understand what each result means. The water matcher can help compare measured values with the stated range.

Make changes without creating a second problem

• If the temperature is outside 22–28°C: correct the equipment or room influence gradually and verify the water itself.
• If pH or hardness falls outside the range: identify the source-water chemistry before altering it.
• If ammonia or nitrite is detectable: treat this as a water-quality problem requiring immediate testing and corrective maintenance.
• If several animals need different chemistry: do not force a compromise at the edge of incompatible ranges.

Guppies occur in freshwater and brackish environments, but that does not make routine aquarium salt necessary. Add salt or minerals only for a measured purpose after checking the effect on every fish, invertebrate and plant in the aquarium.

Read a complete set of test results

A result of 25°C, pH 7.5 and 12 dGH sits within all three routine ranges, but ammonia and nitrite must also remain at zero before the aquarium is ready. A result of 25°C, pH 6.8 and 12 dGH still needs attention because the pH is below the routine range even though temperature and hardness fit. Likewise, pH 7.5 with 7 dGH leaves hardness below the planned range. Repeat any unexpected test, compare it with the source water and identify the cause before making changes. Alter one controlled factor at a time, then retest, because changing temperature, pH and mineral content together makes the result harder to assess and can reduce stability.

Build a mature, filtered home

Use a mature aquarium with a maintained biological filter. The RSPCA explains that fish release toxic ammonia and that established filter bacteria convert it first to nitrite and then to safer nitrate. A new container filled with tap water is not mature merely because it has been running for a set number of days; repeated tests must show that the filter can process waste.

Our conservative guppy plan starts with an aquarium at least 60 cm long. Seriously Fish describes a 45 × 30 cm base at about 41 litres, but our longer house screen gives a small social group more usable horizontal room. Nominal litres do not account for internal dimensions, substrate, decoration, other animals or the filter’s biological capacity.

If this is your first setup, follow the steps in our first tropical aquarium guide before livestock arrives. Confirm stable temperature, zero ammonia, zero nitrite and appropriate pH and hardness before introducing fish.

Arrange the space for swimming and retreat

• Leave open horizontal water for normal swimming and feeding.
• Add live or suitable artificial plants for cover and visual breaks.
• Choose smooth ornaments that will not catch elongated fins.
• Keep flow gentle enough that the fish can hold position and swim normally.
• Use a secure cover and check that filter intakes do not endanger small fish or fry.

Seriously Fish describes guppies as unfussy and notes that planted aquariums with floating vegetation are appreciated, while strong currents should be avoided. Watch the fish rather than judging flow from the filter label: repeated struggling, pinned fins or inability to reach food means the layout or current needs changing.

Check readiness at three practical points

• Before adding fish: verify that temperature is stable, ammonia and nitrite are zero, and pH and hardness sit within the planned ranges.
• After arranging the aquarium: confirm that plants and ornaments leave a continuous swimming route and that no sharp edge can catch a broad tail.
• After filter maintenance: check that flow has resumed, the heater is operating and the fish can hold position without being pushed around.

If one check fails, correct that part before increasing the group. More fish add waste and competition; they do not demonstrate that an immature filter or unsuitable layout can cope.

Plan the social group before adding fish

Keep guppies in a planned social group rather than treating one fish as a complete setup. FishBase advises aquarium groups of five or more, and Tropical Fish Co uses five or more as its conservative house recommendation where aquarium capacity, sex mix, filtration, test results and other livestock allow. Additions must still be gradual because every extra fish increases feeding and waste.

This product contributes one male to that plan. A male-only group avoids new mixed-sex mating, but display and pursuit can still become persistent. A mixed-sex group creates the possibility of fry; OATA suggests two females to each male to reduce pressure on females and other inhabitants, but no ratio removes the need to observe behaviour or plan population growth.

Watch the group, not only the head count

Do not add another fish automatically when the existing group shows stress. Persistent pursuit, hiding, missed meals or damaged fins indicates that the current arrangement needs attention first. Keep a mature separation option ready so intervention does not depend on moving a fish into an uncycled container.

Work from the group you already have

If the aquarium already holds four compatible guppies and passes the space, water, filtration and sex-plan checks, this individual could bring the group to five. That arithmetic is only the starting point: adding a male to four females creates a different courtship and fry plan from adding him to a suitable male-only group. If the aquarium holds no guppies, one purchase does not complete the recommended social group. Plan the full group before ordering individuals, then introduce livestock gradually so the biological filter can adjust to increased waste. If existing fish are already chasing, hiding or missing food, resolve that behaviour before changing the head count.

Feed a complete omnivore diet

Use an appropriately sized, nutritionally complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple. FishBase records wild guppies feeding on zooplankton, small insects and detritus, while Seriously Fish describes wild fish as primarily insectivorous and aquarium strains as willing to accept most foods. Add safe compatible algal and invertebrate variety rather than relying on a single treat food.

OATA’s guppy-and-molly schedule advises feeding once a day and giving only what the fish can eat within a few minutes. Start with a measured small portion, watch every fish and reduce the next portion if food remains. Uneaten food breaks down into waste, so more food is not a substitute for better access.

Make each feeding a welfare check

• If all fish approach and feed normally: keep the portion consistent and vary suitable foods safely.
• If one fish is excluded: spread the food across more than one accessible point and reassess social pressure.
• If food reaches the substrate uneaten: remove it and reduce the next portion.
• If appetite drops suddenly: test water and inspect breathing, swimming, fins and body condition.
• If food pieces are too large: use an appropriately sized form rather than expecting the fish to manage it.

Store food correctly and use aquarium foods from biosecure sources. Do not collect insects, detritus or other material from outdoor water to imitate a wild diet. Fry, if produced, need food sized for their mouths and closer water-quality monitoring, so prepare their feeding and filtration arrangements before attempting to raise them.

Calibrate the portion from what remains

Begin with a small measured amount at the daily feed and observe the whole group for the next few minutes. If pieces remain beyond that period, remove them and make the following portion smaller. If one fish misses food while others finish quickly, divide the same total amount between accessible feeding points instead of increasing the overall quantity. Recheck appetite against body condition and weekly water results: consistently uneaten food alongside rising nitrate indicates that the routine needs reducing, while sudden refusal from a fish that normally feeds calls for immediate water and health checks. A feeding routine is successful when each fish gains access and food does not remain to decay.

Maintain the filter and water every week

Test ammonia and nitrite at least once per week and keep both at zero. OATA also advises that nitrate should not exceed 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. Record results so a gradual change is visible before it becomes a health problem.

At least once every week, carry out a partial water change of 25%. Treat replacement tap water with a suitable conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before adding it to the aquarium. Match the new water to the aquarium gradually and verify temperature rather than estimating it by touch.

Use a repeatable maintenance sequence

1. Test the aquarium and source water before disturbing the setup.
2. Siphon solid waste while removing 25% of the aquarium water.
3. Check the filter for reduced flow or blockages.
4. If cleaning is needed, rinse the media lightly in removed aquarium water.
5. Do not run the filter media under the tap.
6. Condition the replacement water and return it carefully.
7. Confirm that the filter and heater are working after maintenance.

Chlorine or chloramine can kill the beneficial bacteria established in filter media, which is why removed aquarium water is used for rinsing. Avoid replacing all established media at the same time unless the filter maker’s safe procedure requires a specific change and biological capacity is protected.

Test outside the weekly schedule whenever fish gasp at the surface, sit on the bottom, swim erratically, hide unusually or stop feeding. Water quality is the first practical check because ammonia and nitrite are toxic and can affect every animal in the aquarium at once.

Use the first month to establish a baseline

Write down the weekly ammonia, nitrite and nitrate readings alongside temperature, pH, hardness, water-change date and any filter work. Four consistent entries make later changes easier to recognise than a single isolated result. If ammonia or nitrite appears after adding fish, do not wait for the next scheduled test; respond to the detectable reading and reassess feeding, stocking pace and biological filtration. If nitrate rises faster than before while ammonia and nitrite remain zero, compare feeding, waste removal and the number of animals with the earlier entries. Keep the same testing method and units so one week can be compared directly with the next.

Follow the arrival steps in order

Prepare and test the mature aquarium before the fish travels. The animal is hand-bagged in pure oxygen and placed in an insulated box, with a heat pack when weather conditions call for it. Arrange for someone to receive the parcel in person because live fish cannot be left unattended.

When the parcel arrives

1. Receive the parcel in person on the confirmed day.
2. Before opening it, start a continuous video showing the parcel still sealed and the outer box visible.
3. Open the parcel while continuing the same recording.
4. Show the fish inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
5. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes.
6. Release the fish after the floating period.

Film every delivery from the sealed parcel onward. If the fish’s condition causes concern, keep the recording and order number, and contact us the same day so the Live Arrival Guarantee process can be followed. Read the current delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy before dispatch for the complete terms and reporting instructions.

Once released, check swimming, breathing, balance and fin position. The arrival procedure does not replace the aquarium checks made beforehand: temperature, pH, hardness, ammonia and nitrite should already be suitable before the bag is opened.

Respond early to health changes

A settled guppy should swim steadily, breathe regularly, hold open undamaged fins, maintain a normal body profile and feed consistently. Changes in swimming, colour, temperament, breathing, appearance, weight or appetite are reasons to inspect the fish and aquarium promptly rather than choosing a treatment from one sign.

If you see a warning sign

The RSPCA’s fish health guidance supports checking water quality and seeking veterinary help when signs persist. Do not select salt, heat or medication solely from a symptom because similar signs can have different causes.

Use a separate quarantine aquarium with dedicated equipment, biological filtration and repeated testing. The MSD Veterinary Manual recommends at least 30 days of quarantine, with longer isolation where indicated. Keep quarantine water within the same suitable care range and avoid using a small uncycled container.

For diagnosis and treatment in the UK, use OATA’s fish-vet directory. Record dates, test results, appetite and visible signs so the professional receives a clear history.

Build a quiet community

Keep this male guppy in a quiet community whose members share its water and space requirements. Seriously Fish describes Poecilia reticulata as very peaceful and names other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and tetras as possible companions. These are starting categories, not automatic approvals for every species within them.

Avoid fin-nipping species such as tiger barbs and serpae tetras. The guppy’s broad domestic fins increase the importance of this rule, and an aquarium’s size or planting does not turn a known fin-nipping species into a routine recommendation.

Check each proposed companion

• Confirm overlapping temperature, pH and hardness away from incompatible extremes.
• Compare adult size and whether either animal could swallow or injure the other.
• Assess fin-nipping, territorial, courtship and feeding-competition risks.
• Allow for the usable footprint required by every social group.
• Make sure each animal can reach food and refuge.
• Keep a mature separation option ready if observed behaviour changes.

Some livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and tetras may pass this screen in a suitably sized aquarium. Exact species still matter because those broad groups contain animals with different adult sizes, activity levels and water requirements.

Observe the result after introduction. Repeated chasing, cornering, hiding, missed feeding, torn fins or weight loss means the combination needs intervention. Do not add more livestock in an attempt to distract the fish until the existing problem has been identified.

Apply the screen to the whole aquarium

A rasbora species whose temperature and pH overlap may still fail the plan if its own social group leaves too little usable swimming room. A corydoras species may share suitable water yet require a group and bottom area that the aquarium cannot accommodate after the guppy group is counted. A tetra category is not approval when the exact species is known to nip fins; tiger barbs and serpae tetras remain under avoid. Check every proposed species at its adult size, include the full number required for each social group, and assess feeding access before adding any animal. Compatibility is the result of all those checks together, not one matching temperature.

Screen invertebrates, bettas and sex mixes carefully

No species name guarantees compatibility. Apply the same water, adult-size, behaviour, space and feeding screen to every proposed animal, then maintain a way to separate individuals if their behaviour changes.

Use caution with these plans

A larger planted aquarium can provide more space and visual breaks, but it cannot guarantee a safe betta–guppy pairing. Plants also cannot replace intervention when one fish is persistently pursued or excluded from food.

Mixed-sex planning requires both behavioural and population decisions. Guppies are livebearers, and females may store sperm after an earlier mating. Before adding females to this male offer, decide how fry would be housed, fed and responsibly rehomed. Never use predation by adults or other tank mates as the population-control plan.

When preserving the identity of guppy and Endler lines matters, keep them separately. Endler’s livebearer is the distinct species Poecilia wingei, and research confirms that it can hybridise with Poecilia reticulata. Hybrid descendants should not be represented as pure examples of either species.

Answer common guppy care questions

How big does a Blue Turquoise Male Guppy get?

It reaches 5 cm standard length according to FishBase’s male or unsexed figure; standard length excludes the tail fin.

What size aquarium does a Blue Turquoise Male Guppy need?

Use a mature filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long under Tropical Fish Co’s conservative guppy policy. Seriously Fish describes a 45 × 30 cm base at about 41 litres, but litres alone do not set a safe stocking level.

How many Blue Turquoise Male Guppies should I keep?

Plan for five or more where aquarium capacity and the sex plan allow. A Blue Turquoise Male Guppy counts as one fish within that planned group; FishBase advises groups of five or more, which is also Tropical Fish Co’s conservative house recommendation.

Is a Blue Turquoise Male Guppy suitable for beginners?

It can suit a prepared beginner with a mature filtered aquarium, tested water, a planned social group and a response plan for chasing, illness or fry.

What does a Blue Turquoise Male Guppy eat?

Feed an appropriately sized complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple, with safe algal and invertebrate variety. OATA advises one daily portion eaten within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does this fish need?

Keep it at Tropical Fish Co’s routine 22–28°C; use the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA’s group guidance at pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH.

Is it aggressive or does it nip fins?

Seriously Fish describes it as very peaceful. Avoid fin-nipping species such as tiger barbs and serpae tetras, and intervene if pursuit or fin damage develops.

Which animals can it live with?

Other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and tetras may suit after screening their water, adult size, behaviour, space and feeding needs. No named companion is automatic.

How does this fish arrive alive in the UK?

Start filming the sealed parcel before opening it, continue until the fish is shown inside the sealed bag, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release. Tropical Fish Co packs the fish in pure oxygen inside an insulated box, with a heat pack when weather conditions call for it.

Review the care references

• FishBase: Poecilia reticulata — identity, family, distribution, recorded environment, biology, length and aquarium group note.
• Seriously Fish: Poecilia reticulata — aquarium dimensions, water conditions, diet and community behaviour.
• OATA: How to look after guppies and mollies — UK group care, feeding, maintenance and social guidance.
• RSPCA: Aquarium environment — biological filtration and aquarium welfare.
• RSPCA: Fish health and welfare — health observations and escalation.
• MSD Veterinary Manual: Management of aquarium fish — quarantine and water-quality-led investigation.
• OATA: Find a fish vet — UK fish-vet directory.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes: Poecilia reticulata — accepted name, authorship and type locality.
• Poeser, Kempkes and Isbrücker: description of Poecilia wingei — formal species description.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes: Poecilia wingei — current valid-status record.