Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy (Poecilia reticulata)

Decide whether this guppy fits your aquarium

The Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) is a peaceful livebearer in the Poeciliidae family. Its species is native to Venezuela, Barbados, Trinidad, northern Brazil and the Guianas. This male grows to 5 cm standard length, which excludes the tail fin. It suits a prepared beginner who can provide a mature filtered aquarium, mineral-bearing neutral-to-alkaline water, a planned social group and a way to separate fish if persistent chasing or fin damage develops.

FishBase records a maximum of 5 cm standard length for male or unsexed fish, together with aquarium keeping in groups of five or more and a minimum aquarium length of 60 cm. Seriously Fish lists 6 cm standard length for the species; plan this male offer around the sex-specific 5 cm FishBase figure while still allowing room for its broad finnage and social group.

Use the decisive care numbers

The routine water values are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish, OATA and the Tropical Fish Co guppy guide. They keep the aquarium inside every named range rather than at conflicting outer limits. Test the aquarium itself because a heater setting, room temperature or regional tap-water description cannot replace measured temperature, pH and hardness.

Check the overall fit

Koi Tuxedo describes a selected colour and fin appearance, not another species or a separate care type. Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes accepts Poecilia reticulata, so aquarium planning should follow guppy requirements rather than treating the strain label as a different biological identity.

Understand the animal and unit supplied

One purchase supplies one live Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy. The dispatch grade is approximately 2.5–3 cm, while the 5 cm figure is the recorded adult standard length used for long-term planning. Do not choose an aquarium around the smaller dispatch measurement: filtration, social space and swimming length must suit the mature group from the start.

Sex is guaranteed only when the exact product or selected option explicitly states male or female. This Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy listing is sold as male. Male guppies have a narrow modified anal fin called a gonopodium, but colour alone is not a dependable sexing method because selectively bred guppies vary widely in colour and finnage.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal. Koi and Tuxedo are appearance labels, so use the photograph to understand the general pattern rather than expecting every marking, red patch or pale edge to occupy exactly the same place.

Plan the group before adding one fish

Our complete guppy care guide uses a conservative starting policy of five or more guppies where aquarium capacity, sex planning, filtration, water tests and other livestock allow. A male-only group avoids new mixed-sex mating, but it still needs observation because display and pursuit can become persistent. Mixed-sex planning requires capacity for courtship and possible fry; OATA suggests two females per male to reduce pressure on females and other inhabitants.

A quantity of fish is not automatically a balanced social plan. Count existing guppies, check their sexes, consider every adult body and fin span, and leave capacity for biological filtration to handle the total feeding and waste load. If one fish is repeatedly cornered, prevented from feeding or left with damaged fins, separate it safely rather than assuming another guppy will solve the behaviour.

Prepare before committing

• Confirm length: use an aquarium at least 60 cm long for the small adult group.
• Measure water: establish 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH before introduction.
• Confirm cycling: ammonia and nitrite should both be zero.
• Plan companions: exclude fin nippers and screen every other species against the guppy’s water and space needs.
• Plan intervention: keep a mature separation or quarantine option ready for chasing, injury or illness.

You can compare appearance labels across the guppy collection, but make the final decision from the exact product title, sold sex and unit shown on each product page.

Plan the aquarium around the whole group

Use a mature, filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long for one small guppy group. FishBase’s aquarium note supplies the 60 cm length and five-or-more group reference. Seriously Fish describes a 45 × 30 cm base with about 41 litres, while OATA recommends at least 45 litres for a small group of smaller livebearers. Tropical Fish Co uses the more conservative 60 cm length because litres alone do not describe usable swimming room.

An aquarium labelled 45, 60 or 90 litres can have very different proportions. Measure the internal length and footprint, then consider the space displaced by substrate, ornaments and equipment. A tall narrow aquarium may hold the same nominal volume as a longer one while offering less horizontal room for a social group to move, display and avoid one another.

Check more than the volume label

A conventional 60-litre aquarium can be a candidate for five guppies only when it is about 60 cm long, fully cycled, suitably furnished and not already carrying a conflicting livestock load. Five is a conservative starting group, not a maximum stocking formula. Existing fish, mixed sexes, fry, weak filtration or poor test results can make the same aquarium unsuitable.

Provide plants or other smooth cover without blocking the central swimming area. Seriously Fish notes that planted aquaria and floating vegetation are appreciated and that strong currents should be avoided. Long fins should not be pinned by flow, dragged towards an intake or forced to work constantly to remain in place. Adjust the outlet if the fish cannot swim steadily through the open area.

Before livestock arrives, use our guide to prepare and mature a first aquarium. Cycling is demonstrated by repeated water tests, not simply by leaving a tank filled for a set number of days. Add livestock gradually so the beneficial bacterial population can respond to each increase in waste and feeding.

Keep the water stable and measured

Keep this guppy at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH. These routine values are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish, OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance and the Tropical Fish Co guppy guide. OATA’s figures are group guidance, not a species-specific optimum, and the overlap keeps all three water measurements within every named range.

Use a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater whenever the room cannot hold the water within 22–28°C. Check the water with an independent aquarium thermometer rather than relying only on the heater dial. Place the thermometer where it reflects the main swimming area, then watch for unexpected changes after maintenance, cold weather or equipment adjustment.

Test the values that protect the fish

• Ammonia: maintain zero mg/l.
• Nitrite: maintain zero mg/l.
• Nitrate: OATA advises that it should not exceed 20 mg/l above the normal tap-water level.
• pH: keep it between 7.0 and 8.0 and avoid abrupt correction.
• General hardness: keep it between 9 and 18 dGH.
• Temperature: keep it between 22 and 28°C and confirm it independently.

Test the aquarium before adding the fish and at least weekly during routine care. Test again after an unexplained behaviour change, filter problem, missed maintenance event, death, sudden appetite loss or accidental overfeeding. Our water chemistry guide explains what these measurements mean, while the water matcher can compare measured aquarium values with the stated range.

UK tap-water chemistry varies by region and may change when water companies blend supplies. Test the source water actually used for the aquarium. Treat new tap water with a suitable conditioner before it enters the tank, then match temperature and chemistry gradually during water changes.

Although FishBase records the guppy in freshwater and brackish environments, routine salt addition is not required by this care plan. Do not add salt or minerals without a measured purpose and a compatibility check for every fish, invertebrate and plant. Long-term maintenance should remain in moderately hard or harder water rather than soft, acidic conditions.

Protect filtration and water quality

Run a mature biological filter continuously. The RSPCA explains that fish release toxic ammonia, which filter bacteria convert first to toxic nitrite and then to safer nitrate. A filter is therefore life-support equipment, not simply a device for making the water look clear.

For an aquarium of about 41 litres, Seriously Fish suggests turnover of four to five times the volume per hour, corresponding to a filter rated around 165–205 litres per hour. Treat that as a planning reference for that example aquarium, then check the actual flow in the furnished tank. Media, pipework, outlet position and blockage can alter the effective current.

Follow a repeatable weekly routine

1. Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before maintenance so the result reflects the aquarium’s condition.
2. Carry out a 25% partial water change at least once every week.
3. Use a siphon to remove accessible solid waste from the substrate.
4. Treat replacement tap water with conditioner before adding it.
5. Match replacement water gradually to the aquarium’s temperature and chemistry.
6. Check the filter, heater, thermometer and intake for blockages or damage.

The weekly frequency applies to the 25% change: do not delay the change because the water looks clear. Increase investigation rather than changing numbers blindly if ammonia or nitrite appears, nitrate rises unexpectedly, fish breathe rapidly or food remains uneaten. Check stocking, feeding, filter operation and recent changes together.

If filter media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial change. Do not run it under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacterial population established in the media. Avoid cleaning every biological component aggressively at the same time.

Feed and maintenance decisions are connected. Uneaten food decomposes and adds to the filter’s load, while a blocked filter reduces oxygenated flow through the bacterial media. Remove leftovers, keep the intake clear and investigate any sudden change in output. Never use extra fish as a test of whether a filter is mature.

Observe the group after maintenance. Steady swimming and regular breathing should resume without prolonged distress. If fish gather at the surface, sit on the bottom or swim erratically, test the water immediately and inspect temperature, conditioner use, filter operation and the volume of water changed.

Feed for condition without leaving waste

Use an appropriately sized, nutritionally complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple. Wild guppies recorded by FishBase eat zooplankton, small insects and detritus, while Seriously Fish describes wild fish as primarily insectivorous and notes that aquarium strains accept most foods. Add safe compatible invertebrate and algal variety without allowing one treat food to replace the complete staple.

OATA advises feeding only what the fish can consume within a few minutes, once a day. Watch every individual rather than dropping in a fixed amount and walking away. Broad-finned males may feed at different positions in the flow, and a pursued fish can miss food even when plenty enters the aquarium.

Use the group’s response to set the portion

Suitable variety can include small aquarium foods such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex where these are safe and correctly handled. Introduce variety in modest portions so it does not destabilise the routine or leave excess material to decay. Store foods correctly and discard anything spoiled or contaminated.

A high appetite is not permission to overfeed. Guppies may continue approaching food, but excess food releases waste as it breaks down. Use measured portions, remove leftovers and assess body condition over time. A normal feeding response should accompany steady swimming, regular breathing and a stable body profile.

If several fish miss food, first check whether the current is carrying it away or one individual is monopolising the feeding point. Spread a small measured portion across more than one accessible location while keeping the total controlled. Persistent exclusion requires a social or layout response, not unlimited food.

Fry require food sized for their mouths and closer water-quality monitoring, but this male offer should not be treated as a breeding package. Plan a separate mature nursery and responsible rehoming capacity before deliberately keeping a mixed-sex group for reproduction.

Manage the social group and sex plan

Keep five or more guppies where aquarium capacity, filtration, test results and the sex plan allow. FishBase records aquarium keeping in groups of five or more, and our conservative house policy uses the same starting number. The total is not a guarantee of harmony, so watch whether every fish can move, rest and feed without persistent pursuit.

This fish is sold as male. A male-only group prevents new mixed-sex mating, but males may still display or chase. Provide open swimming room with monitored plants and sight breaks, then intervene if one fish is repeatedly cornered, hides continuously, misses food or develops fin damage.

Choose a social plan deliberately

OATA suggests at least three guppies with two females to each male, while the Tropical Fish Co group policy is five or more. A ratio does not replace observation or guarantee manageable reproduction. If a mixed group is planned, provide enough females and space to spread male attention, but keep a mature separation option ready.

Do not identify sex from colour alone. Mature males have a narrow modified anal fin called a gonopodium, while a female’s anal fin is broader and triangular. Domestic females can also show strong colour, so anal-fin shape is the more useful feature. A rounded abdomen or dark area alone is not proof of pregnancy.

Guppies are livebearers. Females may store sperm from earlier mating and later produce fry without a male remaining in the aquarium. Before introducing females, decide how young fish would be housed, fed and responsibly rehomed. Adult predation is not a responsible population-control plan.

Keep documented guppy and Endler lines apart. The formal description of Poecilia wingei and its current valid status distinguish Endler’s livebearer from Poecilia reticulata. Aquarium hybridisation is possible, so descendants should not be represented as pure examples of either species without documented lineage.

Follow the arrival procedure in order

Prepare and test the mature aquarium before the fish travels. Confirm 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0, 9–18 dGH, zero ammonia and zero nitrite, then check that the filter and heater are operating normally. These aquarium checks belong before arrival so the fish can move into stable conditions after the delivery procedure.

When the parcel arrives

1. Receive the parcel in person; live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. Start a continuous video while the parcel is still sealed, with the outer box visible.
3. Open the parcel on camera in one continuous take and show the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.
6. If anything has gone wrong, report it to Tropical Fish Co the same day with the order number and continuous unboxing video.

The fish is hand-bagged in pure oxygen, placed in an insulated box and given a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel. Read the current delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy before dispatch so someone can receive and inspect the parcel on the confirmed date.

Check the fish after release

Observe swimming, balance, breathing and fin position without repeatedly disturbing the aquarium. A newly introduced fish still needs immediate attention if it loses balance, gasps at the surface, sits persistently on the bottom or cannot swim against the current. Test the aquarium and inspect equipment rather than assuming every concerning sign is normal transport stress.

Check that the guppy can reach food when its normal feeding routine resumes and that established fish do not corner it. Persistent pursuit, missed feeding or torn fins requires separation and a review of the social plan. Adding another fish is not an automatic remedy.

Keep the unboxing video and order details while monitoring the initial condition. The video should begin with the sealed parcel rather than after the bag has already been floated or opened, because the continuous sequence shows the condition before anything is disturbed.

Respond early to health changes

A settled guppy should swim steadily, breathe regularly, hold open undamaged fins, maintain a normal body profile and feed consistently. Check the group daily so a change is compared with that fish’s usual appearance and behaviour rather than with a generic picture.

The RSPCA’s fish health guidance treats hiding, clamped fins, surface gasping, unusual balance, spots, wounds and sudden appetite changes as warning signs. These signs are not diagnoses. Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature immediately, then inspect the filter, heater, recent maintenance, food and social behaviour.

Match the response to what you see

Do not choose salt, heat or medication from one symptom. Different problems can create similar visible signs, while an unsuitable treatment can affect the fish, filter bacteria, plants or companions. Record dates, water results and clear photographs so changes can be followed accurately.

Use a separate quarantine system with dedicated equipment, mature biological filtration and repeated testing. The MSD Veterinary Manual recommends at least 30 days of quarantine, with longer isolation where indicated. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero throughout; a small uncycled container is not a safe quarantine system.

If signs persist or worsen after immediate water and equipment checks, use OATA’s UK fish-vet directory to find qualified help. Follow lawful labelled products and veterinary direction rather than combining treatments.

Never release a guppy, fry, plant, snail, pathogen or aquarium water outdoors or into a surface-water drain, pond or natural waterway. Rehome livestock responsibly and dispose of aquarium water so organisms cannot reach natural watercourses.

Screen every potential tank mate

A Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy can live in a quiet community only when every proposed companion passes the same water, space, feeding and behaviour checks. Seriously Fish describes the guppy as very peaceful and names other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras and small loricariids as community possibilities. Those names are starting points rather than universal approvals because exact species and adult requirements vary.

Avoid fin-nipping species

Do not keep this guppy with fin-nipping species. Seriously Fish specifically names tiger barbs and serpae tetras, while OATA warns against species that might nip guppy fins. The Koi Tuxedo male’s broad fins increase the amount of exposed fin tissue, but appearance alone cannot predict whether a particular companion will behave safely.

Apply the compatibility screen

1. Water: require a practical overlap with 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH.
2. Adult size: check whether either animal could swallow or injure the other.
3. Behaviour: exclude fin nippers and assess territorial, courtship and pursuit risks.
4. Social space: fit every species’ full group into the usable footprint.
5. Feeding: make sure every animal can reach an appropriate diet without exclusion.
6. Flow and layout: avoid conditions that prevent the guppy from swimming normally.
7. Intervention: keep a mature separation option ready before combining livestock.

Some other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras and small loricariids may pass this screen in a suitably sized aquarium. Confirm the exact species because the group name alone cannot establish adult size, social number, water range or temperament.

A betta and guppy mix is not a sensible default. Display, territorial and long-fin interactions vary between individuals, and a larger planted aquarium cannot guarantee safety. Small shrimp or young invertebrates may be eaten, so “invertebrates” is too broad to promise as a compatible category.

Do not use a shared temperature alone as proof of compatibility. Two animals can tolerate the same temperature while differing in hardness, pH, adult size, social requirements, current, diet or behaviour. Plan around the full overlap and the total adult livestock load.

Act on behaviour rather than peaceful labels

Peaceful describes the guppy’s general temperament; it does not mean every combination or social group will remain calm. Watch the actual fish for persistent pursuit, cornering, hiding, missed feeding, clamped fins or physical damage. Normal brief display is different from a repeated pattern that prevents another fish from resting or feeding.

Use clear intervention triggers

Changing the layout can create sight breaks, but decor is not a guaranteed cure for persistent aggression. Preserve open swimming room and check that added cover does not create a dead end where one fish can be trapped. If the behaviour continues, use the prepared separation aquarium.

Introduce livestock gradually so the biological filter can respond to the additional waste and feeding. Check ammonia and nitrite after a stocking change and keep both at zero. A socially plausible combination can still fail if the filter is immature or the total load is too high.

Reassess compatibility as animals grow and group composition changes. Use adult size rather than dispatch size in the plan, and include possible fry when sexes are mixed. More litres can improve stability and options, but they do not remove the need to monitor feeding access, pursuit and fin condition.

When considering another livebearer, rasbora, corydoras or small loricariid, compare the exact animal’s adult requirements with this guppy’s range before purchase. If the ranges only touch at an extreme, choose a different plan.

Keep the decision reversible. A mature spare system, divider used appropriately or other safe separation arrangement allows action before repeated stress becomes injury. Do not wait for severe damage when the same fish is already being cornered, excluded or pursued each day.

Answer common questions before purchase

How big does the Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy get?

This male reaches 5 cm standard length according to FishBase’s male or unsexed figure. Standard length excludes the tail fin, so plan swimming space around the adult fish and its broad finnage.

What size aquarium does a Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy need?

Use a mature filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long. Seriously Fish describes about 41 litres with a 45 × 30 cm base, and OATA recommends at least 45 litres for a small group; our conservative group screen retains the 60 cm length.

How many guppies should I keep with a Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy?

Keep five or more where capacity and the sex plan allow. FishBase records groups of five or more, and the Tropical Fish Co guppy guide uses that number as a conservative starting group rather than a fixed maximum.

Is the Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy suitable for beginners?

It suits a prepared beginner who can provide a mature filtered aquarium, measured neutral-to-alkaline mineral-bearing water, a planned social group and a separation option. It is not suitable for cycling an aquarium with livestock.

What does the Koi Tuxedo Male Guppy eat?

Feed an appropriately sized, nutritionally complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple, with safe compatible invertebrate and algal variety. OATA advises only what the group can eat within a few minutes, once a day.

What temperature and pH does this fish need?

Keep it at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH, the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish, OATA and the Tropical Fish Co guppy guide. Maintain zero ammonia and nitrite.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to nip fins?

It is generally peaceful, but guppies can display and pursue one another. Avoid fin-nipping species, including tiger barbs and serpae tetras, and separate any fish that is persistently cornered, excluded from food or physically damaged.

Which fish can it live with?

Other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras and small loricariids may be considered after checking exact water, adult size, social space, feeding and behaviour needs. No group name guarantees compatibility.

How should I handle this fish when it arrives?

Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, before opening it or floating the bag. Continue through opening and show the fish in the sealed bag, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release and do not pour bag water into the aquarium.

Check the care references

• FishBase: species identity, family, native distribution, environmental records, wild diet, male length and aquarium notes.
• Seriously Fish: aquarium footprint, volume, water conditions, maintenance, diet and compatibility.
• OATA, How to look after guppies and mollies: group water, feeding, maintenance, social and compatibility guidance.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy: packing, courier, arrival procedure and Live Arrival Guarantee terms.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance: biological filtration and nitrogen-waste processing.
• Tropical Fish Co Guppy Care Guide: conservative aquarium, social-group and routine water policy.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes: accepted identities for Poecilia reticulata and Poecilia wingei.
• RSPCA fish health and welfare guidance: warning signs, water checks and escalation.
• MSD Veterinary Manual: quarantine and water-quality-led fish management.
• OATA Find a Fish Vet: UK fish-vet directory.
• Poeser, Kempkes and Isbrücker: formal description of Poecilia wingei.