Golden Female Endler Guppy (Poecilia endler)

Meet the Golden Female Endler Guppy

The Golden Female Endler Guppy (Poecilia endler) is a small freshwater livebearer in the family Poeciliidae, associated with the Campoma and Buena Vista lagoon systems in Venezuela. FishBase records a female maximum of 2 cm standard length. This active social fish suits a prepared beginner who can provide mature filtration, stable medium-hard water, a planned group and a strategy for female social behaviour and possible fry.

Keep it at 24–28°C, pH 7–8 and 15–18 dGH. These working values are the overlap between the Seriously Fish species profile and OATA’s broad guppy-and-molly guidance. Use a mature filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long under our house policy, with at least 45 litres as OATA’s starting volume for a small group of the smaller guppy species.

FishBase now lists it as Poecilia wingei, a valid name also recognised by Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes. The Golden Female name describes the aquarium form and sold sex; it does not establish a locality line or pedigree.

Small adult size does not make an uncycled bowl suitable. Plan around swimming length, biological filtration, the whole social group and every other occupant rather than treating litres as a fixed allowance per fish.

Decide whether this Endler suits your aquarium

We rate this fish easy for a prepared beginner, but that rating assumes a mature filtered aquarium, regular water tests and deliberate population planning. Our complete Endler Guppy care guide explains the house screen of at least 60 cm aquarium length and five or more fish where capacity, sex planning and other livestock allow.

OATA suggests at least three guppies together, while our more conservative plan is five or more where the aquarium can support them. Seriously Fish also notes that females may act territorially and recommends keeping several to disperse potential bullying. Watch whether every fish can feed, swim normally and move away from another fish.

Choose this form when you specifically want a female fish and have accounted for the group already present or planned. A female-only group avoids new mating within a correctly sexed group, but it still needs enough room, observation and a separation plan if persistent pursuit or feeding exclusion develops.

Understand the animal supplied

Sold individually, one purchase supplies one live female fish at a 2–3 cm dispatch size. Dispatch size describes the animal sent, while the 2 cm adult figure is FishBase’s standard-length measurement for females; standard length stops at the base of the tail, so the two measurements are not directly interchangeable.

Sex is guaranteed only when the exact product or selected option explicitly states male or female. This Golden Female Endler Guppy listing is sold as female.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

The word “golden” describes appearance rather than ancestry. Colour, body shape and fin shape alone cannot establish whether an Endler belongs to a documented locality line. A morphological and molecular comparison found overlapping appearance between related guppy species, so traceable records matter when line identity is important.

Use the Endler guppy collection to compare separately listed forms and sexes. Make the group decision from each animal’s stated identity and sex rather than assuming that similarly coloured fish form a pair.

Plan space and group size together

Start with a mature aquarium at least 60 cm long under our house policy, and plan five or more Endlers where filtration, water tests, sex planning and the needs of other occupants allow. OATA recommends at least 45 litres for a small group of the smaller guppy species and suggests keeping at least three guppies together. Seriously Fish describes a 45 × 30 × 30 cm aquarium of about 41 litres as suitable for a substantial colony and advises against smaller aquaria.

Use every dimension as a decision

• Length: provide open horizontal room for active swimming and space to move out of another female’s path.
• Volume: use at least 45 litres as the group starting point, then increase capacity for more fish, fry or other social groups.
• Filter capacity: count the biological load from every animal rather than assigning a fixed number of litres to each Endler.
• Cover: create sight breaks without filling all usable swimming room.
• Backup space: keep a mature separation option ready for injury, repeated pursuit or unexpected young.

A group of five is not permission to add five fish to every 60 cm aquarium. First count its existing occupants, check their adult sizes and social needs, and consider how food will reach each group. A 60 cm aquarium already carrying another complete social group may have less useful capacity than a larger, lightly stocked aquarium.

Female social behaviour also affects the plan. Several females may spread potential bullying, but adding fish cannot repair poor water quality, blocked swimming routes or inadequate filter capacity. Persistent cornering, hiding, missed feeding or damaged fins calls for prompt separation and a review of the layout and stocking plan.

Set stable water and filtration before adding fish

Keep the aquarium at 24–28°C, pH 7–8 and 15–18 dGH. This is the overlap of the Seriously Fish range of 24–30°C, pH 7–8.5 and 15–35 dGH with OATA’s 20–28°C, pH 7–8 and 8–18 dGH guppy guidance. Test the aquarium rather than relying on a heater dial, postcode or assumption about tap water.

Ammonia and nitrite should both read zero. OATA also advises keeping nitrate no more than 20 mg/l above its normal tap-water level. Record the tap and aquarium results so a change can be interpreted against a real baseline. Our water chemistry guide explains the values, while the water matcher helps compare measured aquarium water with the working range.

Prepare the biological filter

The RSPCA explains that a working biological filter supports bacteria that convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate. Mature the filter before the fish arrives and confirm the result through repeated tests. A planted aquarium can still be immature, so plant growth does not replace ammonia and nitrite testing.

Use a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater where room conditions cannot maintain the range, and verify the water with an independent thermometer. Avoid rapid changes. If source water differs from the aquarium, make deliberate, measured adjustments instead of chasing pH with unmeasured additives.

Before bringing home livestock, follow the steps to prepare and mature a first aquarium. Add fish gradually because feeding and waste increase the demand on the bacterial population. Test again after every stocking change rather than assuming the established filter has unlimited capacity.

Build open swimming water with useful cover

Use a planted layout with open horizontal swimming space. Seriously Fish strongly recommends live and floating plants for this active species. Plants can form visual barriers, give a pursued fish another route and provide cover for young, but they should not block the entire aquarium or conceal persistent harassment.

Arrange the aquarium deliberately

• Front and centre: retain a clear route for continuous swimming and feeding observation.
• Sides and rear: use plant groups or suitable ornaments to break long sight lines.
• Surface: add floating cover without sealing the whole surface or preventing useful movement.
• Filter intake: guard it where a small fish or fry could be trapped.
• Decor: avoid sharp edges that could damage fins.

Water flow is acceptable when every fish can hold position, feed and rest without constant effort. Seriously Fish gives four to five aquarium turnovers per hour and, for its approximately 41-litre example, a filter rating of 165–205 litres per hour. Treat the rating as a starting point because media condition, pipework and head height affect actual flow.

Use cover alongside observation. If one female remains hidden, misses food or is repeatedly driven into a corner, adding more plants may only hide the problem. Separate the fish safely and reassess group size, usable length and individual behaviour.

A secure lid reduces escape risk. Leave access for routine maintenance and make sure equipment openings do not create an exit route. Dense cover may also increase fry survival, so choose it together with the population plan rather than as decoration alone.

Feed small complete portions once a day

Feed an appropriately small complete flake or granule as the staple, including vegetable or algal content, and add suitably small live or frozen variety. Seriously Fish describes the species as omnivorous, feeding on zoobenthos and detritus in the wild, and says vegetation should be included. OATA names daphnia, small bloodworm and tubifex as possible variety and notes that Endlers may need smaller foods such as cyclops.

Offer only what the group can finish within a few minutes once a day. This OATA schedule gives a clear household starting point while appetite, food density and group composition determine the actual portion. Break or choose particles that the smallest fish can swallow without repeated spitting.

Check the whole group at every feed

1. Distribute food over enough area for more than one female to feed.
2. Watch whether every fish approaches and swallows particles normally.
3. Compare body condition across the group instead of judging only the boldest feeder.
4. Remove food that repeatedly remains after a few minutes.
5. Reduce the next portion when leftovers appear, then check ammonia and nitrite if waste has accumulated.

Do not rely on visible algae as a complete diet. Store dry food as directed, keep frozen food safely and avoid thawing and refreezing it. Variety means rotating compatible foods around a complete staple, not offering one frozen item as the entire diet.

A sudden loss of appetite is a health or husbandry warning rather than a cue to add more food. Check temperature, ammonia, nitrite, social pressure and the fish’s swimming and breathing before changing the menu.

Maintain the aquarium and act on warning signs

At least once every week, change 25% of the water. Treat replacement tap water with a conditioner that removes chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium, and keep the new water close enough to the aquarium temperature to avoid a rapid change. Use the water change to siphon accumulated solid waste from accessible areas of the substrate.

Test ammonia and nitrite at least weekly, with both remaining at zero. Track nitrate against the tap-water baseline and keep it no more than 20 mg/l above that level. Check the filter for blockages, but do not run biological media under the tap. Rinse it lightly in removed aquarium water when cleaning is needed so fewer beneficial bacteria are lost.

Respond to changes rather than guessing

Healthy observation means knowing the group’s normal swimming, breathing, feeding and social pattern. OATA flags surface hanging, bottom sitting, erratic swimming, unusual colour change, increased hiding, altered aggression, faster or slower gill movement, spots, fluffy growths, damaged fins, scale loss and changing body condition.

RSPCA fish-health guidance supports checking water quality first. Test temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH; inspect the heater and filter; and review recent maintenance, food, new livestock and social behaviour. Persistent loss of balance, breathing difficulty, wounds, swelling or refusal to feed needs prompt assessment by a fish vet. Do not select salt, heat or medication from one symptom alone.

A curved body also needs assessment rather than a visual diagnosis. A study of one captive line reported several possible genetic, nutritional, environmental and traumatic contributors to spinal deformity. Do not breed an affected fish, and do not assume its cause from appearance.

Follow the arrival and first-week sequence

Prepare and test the mature aquarium before the parcel reaches you. Fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen, placed in an insulated poly box and given a heat pack when weather conditions call for one. The delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy contains the current terms and reporting route.

When the parcel arrives

1. Receive the parcel in person and start filming before it is opened, with the sealed parcel and outer box visible.
2. Open it in one continuous take.
3. Show the fish inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Release the fish without pouring bag water into the aquarium.

Film every delivery from the sealed parcel onward. If the fish’s condition causes concern, contact us the same day with the order number and continuous unboxing video so the Live Arrival Guarantee process can be followed.

Watch the first week

OATA’s introduction advice is to confirm zero ammonia and nitrite and increase livestock numbers slowly. Observe swimming, breathing, posture, fins and feeding after release. Check whether the new female can reach food and leave another fish’s path without being cornered.

Test ammonia and nitrite after the stocking change because the biological filter must respond to the added waste and feeding. If either appears, stop adding livestock, reduce avoidable waste and take corrective water-quality action. Persistent pursuit, missed feeding, damaged fins or abnormal breathing calls for separation and investigation rather than waiting for the group to settle by itself.

Plan for adult size, sex and possible fry

Plan around a 2 cm female standard length, the FishBase figure used throughout this page. Standard length ends at the base of the tail. Seriously Fish lists 2.5 cm standard length, while the original species description reported females up to 30.4 mm standard length in a separate stream sample. Individual growth varies, so aquarium space should be chosen for the complete adult group rather than the smallest fish seen on arrival.

For mature fish, anal-fin shape is the main visible sexing feature: a male has a narrow modified anal fin called a gonopodium, while a female has a broader triangular anal fin. Males are often smaller and more conspicuously patterned, but colour, size or a rounded abdomen alone should not be used to identify sex or pregnancy.

Choose the population plan before mixing sexes

• Female-only group: avoids new mating within a correctly sexed group, while female social competition still needs observation.
• Mixed-sex group: can reproduce readily, so courtship pressure, fry capacity and responsible rehoming become central.
• Separation: requires a mature filtered system rather than an uncycled container.

If fry appear, test water immediately, reassess filter capacity and use safely sized complete food. Separate sexes only when identification is confident and both groups have suitable mature housing. Arrange responsible rehoming before crowding develops.

Do not plan around an exact brood size or countdown. A life-history study covered ten litters and 122 fry under one laboratory regime, so its timing and output should not become a promise for an individual female. Adult predation is not a dependable population-control method.

Screen every potential companion

Avoid common guppies because they will crossbreed with Endlers. Also avoid fish large enough to eat them and species that may nip their fins, including barbs. Seriously Fish does not recommend this very small species for an unrestricted general community, so every proposed companion needs an individual water, space and behaviour check.

Apply the same screen in the same order

Seriously Fish names dwarf corydoras, small peaceful rainbowfish such as Iriatherina werneri or Pseudomugil species, and peaceful tetras as possible companions. Those names are starting points, not automatic approvals. Check the exact companion’s adult size, water range, group requirement and feeding behaviour before combining it with Endlers.

Observe at feeding time and during normal swimming. Cornering, repeated chasing, damaged fins, persistent hiding or missed meals means the combination needs intervention. Keep a mature separation option ready before testing a new community.

For a stocking and compatibility assessment, contact us with the aquarium dimensions, measured temperature, pH and hardness, filter details, and the species, number and adult size of every occupant.

Manage female behaviour and line identity

Females may act territorially, so keep several and provide open swimming room, sight breaks and more than one feeding position. Several females can disperse potential bullying, but no group number guarantees harmony. Watch individuals and separate a fish when prolonged pursuit, feeding exclusion or fin damage continues.

Keep these decisions separate

• Social group: follow our five-or-more house plan where capacity and sex planning allow.
• Breeding setup: Seriously Fish advises keeping the species alone when breeding is being attempted.
• Line identity: avoid common guppies because the two species can produce fertile offspring.
• Shrimp: treat coexistence as uncertain rather than guaranteed.

Adult Neocaridina or Amano shrimp may coexist in an aquarium that meets both animals’ water and space needs, but small shrimp and young can be eaten. Dense cover reduces exposure without guaranteeing survival, and feeding competition still needs attention. Shrimp should not be treated as a replacement for removing leftovers or maintaining the aquarium.

Appearance does not establish a pure line. The close relationship and overlapping morphology of Endlers and common guppies mean colour and tail shape cannot certify ancestry. Keep documented lines apart from common guppies and known hybrids when identity matters, and describe any offspring honestly.

A female-only plan prevents new mating only within a correctly sexed group. Continue observing anal-fin development and social behaviour as fish mature, and retain enough spare capacity to act if the population or group structure changes.

Answer common buyer questions

How big does the Golden Female Endler Guppy get?

It reaches 2 cm standard length according to FishBase. Standard length ends at the base of the tail, so it is not the same measurement as total length.

What size aquarium does Poecilia endler need?

Use a mature filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long under Tropical Fish Co’s house policy. OATA recommends at least 45 litres for a small group, while Seriously Fish advises against aquaria smaller than a 45 × 30 cm base.

How many should be kept together?

Plan five or more where aquarium capacity and the sex plan allow under Tropical Fish Co’s house policy. OATA suggests at least three guppies, and Seriously Fish advises several females to disperse potential bullying.

Is the Golden Female Endler Guppy suitable for beginners?

Yes, it can suit a prepared beginner using a mature filtered aquarium, tested water, a planned social group and a strategy for female behaviour and possible fry. It is not suitable for an uncycled bowl.

What does this fish eat?

Feed an appropriately small complete flake or granule with vegetable or algal content, plus small live or frozen variety such as cyclops. OATA advises one daily portion that the group finishes within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does Poecilia endler need?

Keep it at 24–28°C, pH 7–8 and 15–18 dGH. These figures are the overlap of Seriously Fish species guidance and OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to have its fins nipped?

Females may act territorially, so keep several with space and sight breaks. Avoid barbs and other potential fin-nippers, and intervene if chasing, feeding exclusion or fin damage persists.

Which animals can it live with?

Possible companions include dwarf corydoras, Iriatherina werneri, Pseudomugil species and peaceful tetras that pass the water, size and space checks. Avoid common guppies, predators and fin-nippers; small shrimp and young may be eaten.

How does the Golden Female Endler Guppy arrive alive in the UK?

Tropical Fish Co’s policy uses oxygen-filled bags, an insulated box and a heat pack when weather calls for one. Receive the parcel in person, film it continuously from sealed, float the bag for 20–30 minutes and follow the reporting terms.

Consult the public references

• FishBase: accepted species identity, family, Venezuelan distribution, freshwater environment, conservation record and maximum female standard length.
• Seriously Fish: aquarium dimensions, water ranges, omnivorous diet, planting, flow, female behaviour and named possible companions.
• OATA, How to look after guppies and mollies: UK group guidance for water, group size, feeding, maintenance, observation and compatibility exclusions.
• RSPCA, Aquarium filters: biological filtration and conversion of ammonia through nitrite to nitrate.
• RSPCA, Pet fish health: warning signs, water-quality checks and veterinary escalation.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes: valid name and family placement.
• Poeser, Kempkes and Isbrücker, 2005: original description, measured material, type locality and habitat observation.
• Schories, Meyer and Schartl, 2009: morphological and molecular comparison of related guppy species.
• Arbuatti, Della Salda and Romanucci, 2013: spinal deformities observed in one captive line.
• Hernández-López and Luna-Vivaldo, 2021: limited laboratory observations of reproduction and early life.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy: packing, receipt, unboxing video, acclimatisation and reporting procedure.