Green Snake Endler Guppy (Poecilia endler)

Meet the Green Snake Endler Guppy

The Green Snake Endler Guppy (Poecilia endler) is a small freshwater livebearer in the Poeciliidae family. The species comes from the Campoma and Buena Vista lagoon systems in Venezuela and grows to 3 cm standard length. It can suit a prepared beginner who can provide a mature filtered aquarium, medium-hard water, a social group and a plan for fry.

Its accepted scientific name is Poecilia wingei, the name FishBase uses. Green Snake is a trade name, and colour and pattern alone are not proof of a documented locality or pure line.

These fish are active despite their small body size. They need open swimming room as well as cover, and their social and reproductive behaviour makes aquarium length, group composition and spare capacity more important than a simple litres-per-fish calculation. Our easy care rating means suitable for a prepared beginner, not suitable for an uncycled bowl or maintenance-free setup.

The species was described from a site near Cariaco in Venezuela. One observed location was a clear stream with bank vegetation, but that field observation is not a template for every aquarium. A planted aquarium with floating plants is strongly recommended because it provides cover and sight breaks while leaving room for active swimming.

Decide whether your aquarium suits this fish

Keep the group at 24–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 15–18 dGH. This is the overlap between the Seriously Fish species profile and OATA’s guppy-and-molly group guidance, giving a practical routine range that stays inside both. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, test the water regularly and make changes gradually.

Our complete Endler Guppy care guide uses a conservative screen of an aquarium at least 60 cm long and a group of five or more where filtration, the sex plan, other livestock and likely fry allow. OATA’s social floor is at least three guppies, but our higher starting group provides a clearer plan for this active social fish.

Choose this fish when you are willing to observe the whole group rather than relying on the word peaceful. Feeding access, persistent pursuit, hiding and fin condition reveal whether the social plan is working.

Understand the exact offer

One purchase supplies one Green Snake Endler Guppy. The dispatch size is 2–3 cm, which describes the fish when supplied rather than a promised adult measurement. Plan its permanent aquarium around the 3 cm standard-length figure and the needs of the complete group.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Green Snake Endler Guppy listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Treat Green Snake as a trade name rather than a documented Venezuelan locality line or pedigree. Research comparing Endler’s livebearers and related guppies found overlap in visible characteristics, so body colour and fin shape are not pedigree tests. Do not keep Endlers with common guppies, because the two species crossbreed.

For other Endler forms and sex-labelled products, browse the Endler guppy collection. Treat each product’s own scientific identity, sale unit and sex wording as the deciding information rather than assuming every Endler trade label means the same thing.

Plan the aquarium around the adult size

Use 3 cm standard length as the adult planning figure. Standard length ends at the base of the tail, so it does not include the caudal fin. The original species description reported females up to 30.4 mm standard length, and not every fish reaches that size.

Plan the aquarium for the 3 cm adult rather than the 2–3 cm size supplied. Males stay smaller and slimmer than females, so one group can hold fish of quite different sizes. Small adult size does not remove the need for swimming length, stable water or capacity for social and reproductive behaviour.

Use length, volume and capacity together

Start with a mature aquarium at least 60 cm long under our house screen. Seriously Fish gives a 45 × 30 cm base and about 41 litres, while OATA recommends at least 45 litres for a small group of the smaller guppy species. The longer house screen allows more horizontal movement and more opportunity for a pursued fish to move away.

• Length: provide at least 60 cm for the planned adult group.
• Volume: treat 41–45 litres as the smallest volume to consider, not a stocking allowance.
• Biological capacity: count every fish, likely fry and existing animal when assessing the filter.
• Usable space: preserve open water alongside cover and sight breaks.

Do not divide litres by body length to calculate a maximum number. Five fish in a mature, lightly stocked 60 cm aquarium can present a different load and social pattern from five fish added to a crowded community. Increase numbers slowly and reassess feeding access, water tests and behaviour after each change.

Keep the water stable and medium-hard

Maintain 24–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 15–18 dGH for routine care. Seriously Fish gives 24–30°C, pH 7.0–8.5 and 15–35 dGH for the species, while OATA gives 20–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 8–18 dGH for guppies and mollies. Keeping to these values keeps the aquarium inside both ranges.

Test the aquarium rather than judging water by clarity. Ammonia and nitrite must remain at zero; OATA also advises keeping nitrate no more than 20 mg/L above its normal level in the tap water. Use a thermostatically controlled heater to hold the target temperature year-round, and check it with an independent thermometer.

Make changes from measured values

1. Measure the aquarium’s temperature, pH and general hardness.
2. Test the source water used for water changes.
3. Compare the results with the target by using our water matcher.
4. Adjust only through measured, gradual changes rather than chasing one reading with repeated additives.
5. Retest after maintenance and whenever fish behaviour changes.

Our water chemistry guide explains what pH, GH, KH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate each tell you. GH and KH are not interchangeable: the target hardness here is general hardness, while OATA separately gives 5–15 dKH for its wider guppy-and-molly group.

A fish breathing rapidly after a large water change may be responding to temperature, chemistry, chlorine, chloramine or another water-quality problem. Test first, check that replacement water was conditioned and compare temperatures. Avoid abrupt correction unless an immediate toxic-water emergency requires fresh conditioned water.

Build mature filtration and usable cover

Use a mature biological filter before adding the fish. The RSPCA explains that biological filtration supports bacteria that convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then nitrate. A planted aquarium can still be immature, so confirm zero ammonia and nitrite through repeated tests rather than using plant growth or clear water as proof.

If this is your first setup, follow our guide to preparing and maturing a tropical aquarium before livestock arrives. Add fish gradually because filter bacteria must respond to each increase in waste and feeding. Stocking too quickly can produce dangerous ammonia or nitrite even when the filter has previously completed a cycle.

Balance flow, swimming room and shelter

• Flow: provide circulation and surface movement, but check that every fish can hold position and feed without constant effort.
• Intake safety: protect the intake where a small adult or fry could be trapped.
• Open water: leave uninterrupted horizontal room for active swimming.
• Cover: use live plants, floating plants or smooth artificial cover to create retreats and visual barriers.
• Access: keep enough open space to inspect fish, siphon waste and notice persistent hiding.

Seriously Fish strongly recommends a planted setup and floating plants. Dense cover can reduce direct pursuit, but it can also increase fry survival and accelerate crowding. Build the layout around the population plan rather than filling every part of the aquarium with vegetation.

Check ornaments and artificial plants for sharp areas that could damage fins. A secure lid is sensible for this active fish, but it must not obstruct gas exchange or equipment. Observe the swimming pattern after changing decor or filter flow; repeated struggling or avoidance means the usable layout needs adjustment.

Feed small omnivorous portions

Use an appropriately small complete flake or granule as the staple. Seriously Fish describes this species as an omnivore that feeds on zoobenthos and detritus in the wild and says it should have some vegetation in its diet. OATA recommends a good-quality flake or granule with a high algae content, supported by suitably small live or frozen foods such as daphnia, small bloodworm, tubifex or cyclops.

Feed once daily, offering only what the group can finish within a few minutes. The correct portion is the amount every fish can reach without leaving repeated waste behind. Crush or choose particles that the smallest fish can swallow without repeatedly taking and spitting them out.

Check the group, not only the food

1. Spread food across more than one point so a dominant or fast fish cannot take everything.
2. Watch whether each individual approaches, takes and swallows food.
3. Look for fish that hang back, are chased away or lose body condition.
4. Remove recurring leftovers and reduce the next portion.
5. Reassess the amount when the population, temperature or filtration changes.

Live and frozen variety can broaden the diet, but one frozen item is not a complete staple. Endlers may need small foods such as cyclops because larger pieces can be difficult to take. Store dry food away from heat and moisture, handle frozen food safely and avoid thawing and refreezing it.

Do not rely on visible algae as the full diet. Likewise, do not add extra food because fry may be hiding unless you have seen young fish and have a population plan. Uneaten food decomposes and increases the load on the biological filter, so feeding and water testing should be adjusted together.

Follow a repeatable maintenance routine

Change 25% of the water at least once every week, using conditioned replacement water at a closely matched temperature. OATA strongly recommends this weekly partial change, testing at least once a week and siphoning solid waste from the substrate. A fixed percentage is a starting routine; an unusual test result or growing population may require a prompt reassessment of feeding, stocking and maintenance.

Use this weekly sequence

1. Observe swimming, breathing, fins, body condition and feeding before disturbing the aquarium.
2. Test temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and any chemistry value that has been changing.
3. Siphon visible waste while removing a quarter of the water.
4. Treat tap water for chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium.
5. Refill gradually with temperature-matched water.
6. Check the filter flow, heater, thermometer and lid before finishing.

Inspect filter media for blockage. When the filter needs cleaning, rinse the media lightly in water removed from the aquarium, never under the tap, and avoid replacing all mature media at once. The aim is to restore flow while preserving the bacteria that process fish waste.

Respond to trends rather than waiting for a crisis. Rising nitrate can point to increased feeding, more fish, missed maintenance or insufficient plant uptake. Detectable ammonia or nitrite calls for immediate water-quality action and a check of the filter, recent stocking, feeding and any lost livestock.

After adding the fish, record test results and note feeding response, pursuit and hiding. A stable pattern is more useful than one isolated reading. If the group expands through reproduction, revise the maintenance schedule before crowding causes poor water quality.

Prepare for arrival and watch health

Have the mature aquarium heated, filtered and tested before the journey. Under our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy, fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen, placed in an insulated poly box and given a heat pack when weather calls for it. Someone must be ready to receive the live animal rather than leaving the parcel unattended.

Use the arrival steps in order

1. As soon as the parcel is received, start filming before it is opened. Record the parcel still sealed with the outer box visible, opening it in one continuous take and the fish still inside the sealed bag.
2. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
3. Release the fish without pouring bag water into the aquarium.

After release, observe balance, swimming, breathing and fin position. A settled Endler should swim steadily, breathe regularly, hold its fins normally and show a consistent feeding response. Warning signs include surface gasping, loss of balance, persistent hiding, clamped or damaged fins, spots, wounds, unusual swelling or a sudden loss of appetite.

RSPCA fish-health guidance supports checking water quality first when behaviour or appearance changes. Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature; then inspect the heater, filter, recent maintenance, food and social behaviour. Contact us the same day your fish arrive about any arrival concern, with your order number and the unboxing video, and seek a fish vet when signs are severe or persist.

Do not choose salt, heat or medication from one symptom alone. A curved spine can have genetic, nutritional, environmental or injury causes, as a case series on spinal deformities in one captive line shows, so do not breed an affected fish and seek a fish vet's assessment.

Plan for livebearing and fry before they appear

Mixed-sex groups will breed in the aquarium and are very prolific, so decide how you would house and rehome fry before adding the fish. The offer does not guarantee sex, and a quantity of two does not mean a sexed pair. Make sure the main aquarium and any backup system are mature, filtered and large enough for the animals placed in them.

Do not plan around an exact brood number or countdown. A life-history study of Endler’s fish examined only ten litters and 122 fry under one laboratory regime. Plan spare capacity for repeated broods rather than a set number of fry or a fixed date.

If fry appear unexpectedly

• Test ammonia and nitrite and reassess the filter’s biological capacity.
• Count the young conservatively when reviewing stocking.
• Use safe, appropriately small complete food.
• Do not move adults or fry into an uncycled container.
• Separate sexes only when identification is confident and suitable mature housing is ready.
• Arrange responsible rehoming before space becomes restricted.

Dense plants can improve fry survival, which may be useful in a planned breeding aquarium but can rapidly increase population pressure. Predation by adults or companions is not a responsible population-control plan. Prevent unmanaged reproduction where possible and prepare a humane route for every fish already present.

Never release Endlers, hybrids, fry, aquarium plants, snails, substrate or aquarium water outdoors. Captive colour forms or fish without documented provenance are not conservation releases, even though FishBase lists the wild species as Endangered. Permanent suitable care and planned rehoming are the responsible alternatives.

Screen every companion before mixing

Choose only small, peaceful companions whose temperature, pH, hardness, adult size and space needs overlap with this aquarium. Seriously Fish names dwarf corydoras, small rainbowfish such as Iriatherina werneri or Pseudomugil species, and peaceful tetras as possible companions. Each exact species must still pass the water, footprint, feeding and behaviour checks.

Avoid clear predation and fin risks

Avoid any fish large enough to eat an Endler. Do not keep Endlers with any species that might nip their fins, such as barbs. Size at purchase is not the deciding measurement: compare the companion’s adult size and feeding behaviour with the smallest Endler in the group, because males stay smaller than females.

Seriously Fish describes this species as not suitable for a general community because of its small size, so choose companions only from small peaceful species. A companion can be peaceful yet still be too large, too fast at feeding or poorly matched for the medium-hard water. Combined social groups also need more room than either species would use alone.

Adult Neocaridina or Amano shrimp may coexist after the same screening, but no fish is guaranteed shrimp-safe. Small shrimp and young may be eaten, and feeding competition can occur. Cover reduces exposure without guaranteeing survival. Shrimp must also receive their own suitable mineral conditions and social care.

Manage social pressure and hybridisation

Observe pursuit, access to food, hiding and fin condition throughout the group. Seriously Fish describes males as peaceful towards one another but notes that females may act quite territorially, so keep several together to spread any bullying; Tropical Fish Co also treats male courtship and competition as behaviour that needs monitoring. A peaceful label does not guarantee that every individual combination will work.

Use behaviour to decide when to intervene

• Brief display with normal feeding: continue observing the whole group.
• One fish repeatedly cornered: add or rearrange sight breaks if usable swimming room remains.
• Persistent pursuit or missed meals: separate the affected fish into suitable mature housing.
• Fin damage or declining condition: test the water, separate where needed and assess health promptly.

OATA suggests two females per male for mixed guppy groups, while our house plan starts with five or more fish where capacity and the sex plan allow. Neither number makes an undersized aquarium safe. Because sex is not guaranteed here, prepare for more than one possible group composition and have a separation plan.

A male-only group can avoid new mixed-sex breeding inside a correctly sexed aquarium, but it can still show pursuit and display competition. A mixed group adds courtship, fry and rehoming to the care plan. Do not identify sex from colour or body size alone.

Avoid common guppies. Research has produced fertile hybrids between the two recognised species, while morphological and molecular comparison shows why appearance alone is not a dependable pedigree check. Keep Endlers and common guppies in separate aquariums so they cannot crossbreed.

Answer common buyer questions

How big does the Green Snake Endler Guppy get?

Plan around 3 cm standard length for the Green Snake Endler Guppy; standard length stops at the base of the tail.

What size aquarium does it need?

Use a mature, filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long under Tropical Fish Co’s conservative screen. OATA recommends at least 45 litres for a small group of smaller guppies; capacity still depends on the group, other livestock, filtration and fry plan.

How many Green Snake Endler Guppies should I keep together?

Tropical Fish Co recommends five or more Green Snake Endler Guppies where aquarium capacity and the sex plan allow; OATA advises at least three guppies. Monitor feeding access, pursuit, hiding and fin condition.

Is the Green Snake Endler Guppy suitable for beginners?

The Green Snake Endler Guppy can suit a prepared beginner, which is why Tropical Fish Co rates its care level as easy. It still needs a mature filtered aquarium, tested medium-hard water, weekly maintenance and a population plan.

What does it eat?

It is omnivorous and should receive an appropriately small complete flake or granule with vegetation, plus suitable variety such as daphnia, small bloodworm, tubifex or cyclops. Feed once daily and only what the group finishes within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does Poecilia endler need?

Keep Poecilia endler at 24–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 15–18 dGH; these values are the overlap between Seriously Fish species guidance and OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero.

Is the Green Snake Endler Guppy aggressive or likely to nip fins?

The Green Snake Endler Guppy is generally peaceful, but females may be territorial and courtship or display can create persistent pursuit. Treat hiding, missed feeding or fin damage as reasons to intervene, and avoid companions that might nip fins, such as barbs.

Which fish or invertebrates can live with the Green Snake Endler Guppy?

Seriously Fish names dwarf corydoras, Iriatherina werneri, Pseudomugil species and peaceful tetras as possible companions. Adult Neocaridina or Amano shrimp may coexist after water and predation screening, but small shrimp and young may be eaten. Avoid fish large enough to eat Endlers, any species that might nip fins, such as barbs, and common guppies.

How does this fish arrive alive in the UK?

Start a short unboxing video before opening the parcel, showing it still sealed with the outer box visible, opening it in one continuous take and the fish still inside the sealed bag. Someone must receive the parcel; float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release and never pour bag water into the aquarium.

Check the care references

• FishBase: family, freshwater identity, Venezuelan distribution, maximum recorded length and conservation assessment.
• Seriously Fish: species aquarium dimensions, water ranges, diet, behaviour, compatibility and sexual dimorphism.
• OATA guppy-and-molly sheet: UK group guidance for water quality, aquarium volume, social care, feeding, maintenance and compatibility.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance: biological filtration and waste processing.
• RSPCA pet fish health guidance: warning signs, water-quality checks and veterinary escalation.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy: packing, receipt and acclimatisation procedure.
• Tropical Fish Co Endler Guppy Care Guide: conservative aquarium-length, group and population-planning policy.
• Poeser, Kempkes and Isbrücker: original species description, type locality, measured material and field observation.
• Schories, Meyer and Schartl: morphological and molecular comparison of related guppy species.
• Arbuatti, Della Salda and Romanucci: spinal deformities reported in one captive line.
• Hernández-López and Luna-Vivaldo: limited laboratory observations of litters and fry.