Red Male Endler Guppy (Poecilia wingei-type)

Red Male Endler Guppy is a small, active livebearer sold for its warm red-orange display colour and compact male form. This listing is for one male fish per quantity selected. It suits a mature planted aquarium with stable, moderately hard water, gentle filtration and other peaceful fish that will not treat a 2.5 cm livebearer as food. Males are constantly on the move, so the best display combines open swimming space with fine-leaved plants and floating cover.

This fish is supplied in the aquarium trade as Poecilia wingei. Endlers and common guppies are closely related and can produce fertile hybrids, while colour-strain names are not proof of a documented wild lineage. We have not been given lineage records for this stock, so the accurate description is captive Red Male Endler / Poecilia wingei-type stock, not a guaranteed pure wild strain. That distinction matters to breeders; it does not change the practical care needed by a healthy captive Endler-type male.

Browse the wider Endler guppy collection to compare available sexes and colour forms. For broader buying and husbandry context, see our UK guppy guide and guppy type comparison.

What you are buying: sex, strain and species identity

The product name has three useful parts. “Male” identifies the smaller, more colourful sex. “Red” is the supplier's trade description for the expected colour emphasis. “Endler” places the fish in the small livebearer group associated with Poecilia wingei. None of those words promises an identical clone of a catalogue photograph. A live male may carry different amounts of red, orange, metallic green, black barring or clear fin tissue, and colour can look subdued immediately after transport.

Sexual dimorphism is normally clear in mature Endlers. Males are compact, slim and strongly patterned, often with a modified anal fin called a gonopodium. Females are larger, fuller-bodied and usually silver, beige or olive with much less colour. Juveniles can be harder to sex, which is why a current stock check is sensible when sex is critical. This listing should not be substituted with a female without customer agreement.

The scientific name Poecilia wingei was formally described in 2005 from populations in the Campoma and Buena Vista lagoon region of north-eastern Venezuela. It is distinct from the common guppy, Poecilia reticulata, but the two are close relatives. Aquarium strains may have undocumented crossing in their history. A buyer maintaining a conservation or pedigree line should request provenance rather than relying on colour names such as Red, Tiger, Cobra or Rainbow.

Appearance, adult size and normal variation

A healthy male Endler is a tiny, streamlined fish built for quick movement rather than the oversized tail display of many fancy guppies. Aquarium males are commonly about 2.5 cm and may approach 3 cm depending on lineage, feeding and measurement method. The body should be straight, the eyes clear and the fins held open when settled. Red males are expected to show a red or orange emphasis, but the position and intensity of that colour are individual traits.

Transport stress, darkness, temperature change and a new environment can temporarily mute colour. Judge the fish after it has completed acclimation and had time to settle under normal lighting. A dark substrate, green planting and a calm group often make warm colours easier to see, but lighting should support the aquarium rather than be used to force a photographic effect.

There is an important difference between normal variation and a wrong product. Slightly different red coverage is normal. A clearly female fish, a different livebearer species or a fish without the ordered trade identity is not the same product. Contact us promptly with a clear photo if the delivered sex or identity appears inconsistent with the listing.

Natural history and conservation context

Wild Poecilia wingei is associated with shallow lagoon and stream habitats on Venezuela's Paria Peninsula. These waters can include warm, plant-rich margins where small livebearers feed among algae, biofilm and tiny aquatic animals. That natural history helps explain why captive Endlers do well with plant cover, small foods, social contact and clean, oxygenated water.

FishBase records the wild species as Endangered. That status belongs to wild populations and should not be used as a sales claim for ordinary captive aquarium stock. This listing does not claim that the fish is wild-caught, locality-certified or part of a conservation breeding programme. Keeping undocumented trade fish responsibly is worthwhile, but it is different from preserving a verified wild lineage.

Never release aquarium fish, fry, plants or water into a pond, stream or drain. Endlers reproduce quickly and may carry organisms that do not belong in local waterways. Rehome surplus fish through responsible aquarists or retailers instead.

Tank size and aquarium setup

Although a male Endler is small, it is not a bowl fish. A 40-litre, fully cycled aquarium is a sensible starting point for a small group because it provides swimming length, dilution and room for plants and filtration. A longer tank is more useful than a tall narrow one. Larger mixed communities need more volume according to the combined adult size, activity and waste of every species.

The biological filter must be established before livestock is added. Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero, with nitrate managed through stocking, planting and regular partial water changes. Use our stocking calculator as a planning aid, then adjust for the real filter, footprint and behaviour of the fish. A calculator cannot make an uncycled or overcrowded aquarium safe.

Filtration, flow and oxygen

A sponge filter, protected internal filter or gently adjusted external filter can all work. The aim is clean, oxygenated water with visible surface movement, without pinning small fish against the glass. Cover strong intakes with a fine sponge if fry or shrimp are present. An air pump is optional when the filter already creates adequate gas exchange; dissolved oxygen is not optional.

Plants, cover and swimming room

Combine open mid-water space with dense planting at the back and sides. Java moss, guppy grass, water sprite, hornwort and floating plants create refuge without requiring sharp ornaments. Fine-leaved cover is especially useful in breeding tanks because adults may eat newborn fry. Leave a quiet area near the surface where fish can rest after lights out.

Lid, lighting and maintenance

Use a secure lid because small livebearers can jump through surprising gaps. Moderate lighting on a consistent timer is enough; excessive light can cause stress and algae without improving fish health. Change a suitable proportion of water weekly according to test results and stocking, matching the new water for temperature and treating tap water with conditioner. Clean filter media in removed aquarium water rather than untreated hot tap water.

Setup	Starting point	Why it matters
Small male group	40 litres or more	Social contact, swimming room and stable water
Mixed-sex group	60 litres or more	Extra space for females, courtship and likely fry
Community aquarium	Size for the whole stock plan	Tank mates may need more room than the Endlers
Breeding or fry tank	Mature sponge filtration and dense cover	Protects tiny fry from intakes and adults

Water parameters for Red Male Endlers

Endlers tolerate a useful range, but “tolerates” does not mean rapid swings are harmless. A steady 24-26°C is a practical target for most UK tropical aquariums. Moderate to hard, mineral-containing water generally suits livebearers better than very soft, acidic water. Check your tap-water report and aquarium tests before trying to change chemistry.

If your water is far outside the intended range, use our water matcher to compare species that naturally suit it. Chasing pH with short-lived chemical products can create more stress than accepting a stable value within the species' broad tolerance. Any planned adjustment should be gradual and repeatable at every water change.

Warm water holds less oxygen, so the upper end of the temperature range demands particularly good surface movement and conservative stocking. Do not raise temperature as a general cure for illness without a diagnosis; it accelerates metabolism and can make some problems worse.

A practical water-testing routine

Good Endler care is less about finding one “perfect” number and more about keeping the whole system predictable. Test ammonia and nitrite whenever the aquarium is new, after a filter problem, after an unexplained death or when fish behave abnormally. Both should read zero in a functioning aquarium. Test nitrate often enough to learn how quickly it accumulates in your particular tank; the useful water-change schedule is the one that controls waste before fish show stress.

Record temperature, pH, nitrate and maintenance dates for the first month. A short log makes patterns visible: a falling pH may point to low buffering, rising nitrate may show that stocking or feeding has overtaken the maintenance routine, and a temperature that changes sharply overnight may reveal an undersized or failing heater. Repeated measurements made at a similar time of day are more informative than isolated readings taken only when something looks wrong.

UK tap water varies by region. Hard-water areas often suit livebearers without mineral adjustment, while naturally soft supplies may need a different stocking choice or a carefully planned mineral strategy. Read the water company's current report and confirm it with an aquarium test because household plumbing and seasonal supply changes can affect the result. Do not add salt routinely simply because Endlers are livebearers. Freshwater stock does not require permanent aquarium salt when water chemistry and husbandry are appropriate.

Water changes without sudden swings

Prepare replacement water with a conditioner that treats the disinfectant used by your supplier. Match temperature closely and add the new water at a controlled rate, especially in a compact aquarium. Large corrective changes can be necessary after a toxin event, but routine maintenance should prevent the need for repeated emergencies. Never clean the aquarium, filter and all decor to a sterile-looking finish at the same time; beneficial microbes live on wet surfaces, particularly filter media.

When behaviour is the first test result

Fish may signal a problem before a scheduled test. Gasping at the surface can indicate low oxygen or poor water quality; shimmying can accompany stress; clamped fins and hiding can follow a sudden chemistry change. These signs have several possible causes, so use them as a prompt to measure temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH rather than selecting a medicine by symptom alone.

Social needs, male-only groups and mixed sexes

Endlers are social fish and should not be treated as solitary ornaments. A group of around six or more gives males several companions and spreads routine displaying. In a male-only group, watch for persistent targeting rather than assuming every chase is harmless. Plants and broken sight lines help, but they do not compensate for too little space.

Mixed-sex groups reproduce readily. A common starting ratio is one male to two or three females, which reduces pressure on any one female. Do not buy one male and one female as a “pair” unless you have planned for constant courtship and fry. Females can store sperm, so a female may produce broods even after separation from males.

Because this listing is for a male, it can join an established Endler group or contribute to a planned male-only display. If the aquarium already contains common guppies, assume interbreeding is possible. Keep the species and lines separate if ancestry or colour-line consistency matters.

Reading normal Endler behaviour

A settled male spends much of the light period exploring the middle and upper water, inspecting surfaces for food and displaying to companions. Short chases and side-on displays are normal social behaviour. The group should still be able to feed, rest and move away from one another. Activity is desirable; relentless pursuit that keeps one fish hidden or prevents it from eating is not.

Male colour and confidence often improve when the aquarium offers cover without feeling enclosed. Floating roots and tall stems create escape routes, while a clear front swimming lane keeps the fish visible. If all males remain in one corner, check flow, water quality, lighting, nearby movement and the behaviour of larger tank mates before assuming the fish are simply shy.

Displaying versus fighting

Display usually consists of approaching, turning sideways, fin spreading and a short chase. It ends when the other fish moves away. A problem pattern is sustained targeting of the same individual, torn fins, weight loss or a fish that cannot leave cover. Add sight breaks, review group size and stocking, and be prepared to separate an aggressor or vulnerable fish. Adding more animals to an already cramped aquarium is not a reliable cure.

Resting and night behaviour

Endlers do not sleep like mammals, but they reduce activity in darkness and rest among plants or in quieter water. Keep a consistent day-night cycle and provide a genuine dark period. Sudden room light before or after the aquarium timer can startle fish, so switch lighting gradually when practical and keep the lid secure.

Changes that deserve attention

A fish that suddenly stops joining the group, refuses more than one normal meal, breathes rapidly, rubs repeatedly on objects or loses control of its position needs investigation. Start with objective checks and compare all fish in the tank. If several species show distress at once, an environmental problem is more likely than a condition affecting only one individual.

What to feed an Endler guppy

Feed a varied omnivore diet in particles small enough for a tiny mouth. A quality micro pellet or finely crushed livebearer flake can form the staple. Rotate in small frozen or live foods such as daphnia, cyclops and baby brine shrimp, plus a food containing algae or spirulina. Variety is more useful than repeatedly adding a large “colour food” meal.

Offer one or two small feeds a day, only as much as the fish finish quickly. Endlers look hungry whenever a person approaches, but appetite is not proof that another meal is needed. Excess food decomposes, raises waste and is a common cause of cloudy water and poor health in compact aquariums.

Food type	Use	Practical note
Micro pellet or fine flake	Daily staple	Choose a complete omnivore food and crush if needed
Daphnia or cyclops	Small frozen/live supplement	Thaw frozen food and avoid adding packing liquid
Baby brine shrimp	Conditioning and fry growth	Nutritious, but still part of a varied diet
Spirulina or algae-containing food	Plant-based component	Endlers graze biofilm but are not algae-control fish

Adult Endlers may eat their own fry and may take newborn shrimp. Dense cover reduces losses but does not guarantee safety. Separate valuable fry or shrimplets when survival matters.

Tank mates and species to avoid

Choose small, peaceful species that accept similar mineral-rich tropical water and will not nip fins or swallow an adult Endler. Suitable options can include other Endlers, small Corydoras species, peaceful rasboras and compatible small tetras, provided the aquarium is large enough for the whole community. Research each companion's group size and water needs rather than using the Endler's requirements for every fish.

Avoid large or predatory fish, aggressive cichlids and persistent fin-nippers. Goldfish are a poor match because their temperature, size and waste load differ. Bettas are unpredictable with active colourful livebearers; some combinations appear calm while others end in chasing or injury, so they are not a dependable recommendation.

Adult Neocaridina shrimp and snails may coexist in a well-planted tank, but Endlers will investigate tiny moving food and may eat shrimplets. The correct description is “possible with cover,” not “shrimp safe.”

Companion	Suitability	Main condition
Other Endler males	Usually good	Keep a group, enough room and visual cover
Endler females	Good with planning	Use several females per male and expect fry
Common guppies	Compatible but will hybridise	Separate them if lineage matters
Small Corydoras	Often good	Match water and provide their own proper group
Adult dwarf shrimp	Possible	Dense cover; young shrimp may be eaten
Goldfish, large cichlids, predators	Avoid	Temperature, behaviour or predation mismatch

Breeding and fry management

Endlers are livebearers: females give birth to free-swimming young rather than laying a visible clutch of eggs. In a warm, well-fed mixed group, breeding should be expected rather than treated as a rare event. A mature planted tank with a sponge-covered intake gives fry the best chance of avoiding both filtration and adults.

Newborn fry need very small food several times in tiny portions, with water quality protected from overfeeding. Powdered fry food, newly hatched brine shrimp and other appropriately sized foods can be used. Growth and sex differentiation depend on temperature, nutrition, genetics and water quality, so avoid rigid promises about when every youngster will colour up.

Keep the Red line separate from other Endler strains and common guppies if you want repeatable offspring. Because the lineage of this stock is not documented, offspring should not be sold or described as a certified pure wild P. wingei line. Label breeding records honestly with the parent stock source and date.

Endler vs common guppy

Endlers and common guppies share similar basic husbandry, but they are not interchangeable names. The typical Endler male is smaller, more streamlined and carries compact wild-style colour blocks. Fancy guppies are often larger and selected for broad tails or long fins. Both are livebearers, and crosses can be fertile.

Feature	Endler-type male	Fancy common guppy
Scientific identity	Poecilia wingei or Endler-derived trade stock	Poecilia reticulata
Typical male form	Small, slim, compact fins	Often larger with broader or longer fins
Movement	Fast, continuous, agile	Active, with variation between fin strains
Crossing	They can hybridise; separate them when lineage matters

Choose an Endler for a compact, energetic display in suitable water. Choose a fancy guppy when a particular tail form is the priority and the aquarium can support it. Neither choice removes the need for cycling, group care and responsible breeding.

Health checks, quarantine and acclimation

Before adding any live fish, confirm that the aquarium is cycled and that its temperature and chemistry suit the species. On arrival, inspect the unopened bag and follow the current acclimation instructions supplied with the order. Dim the aquarium lights and avoid feeding immediately simply to test appetite. A transported fish needs stable water and quiet more than repeated handling.

A healthy settled male should swim actively, hold its fins open, breathe without obvious effort and show interest in food. Warning signs include persistent clamped fins, rapid breathing, white spots, frayed tissue, a pinched belly, loss of balance or isolation. These signs are not a diagnosis; test the water first and seek qualified aquatic-veterinary or experienced specialist advice when the cause is unclear.

Quarantine new livestock in a separate, cycled system when possible, especially before adding it to valuable breeding stock. Use dedicated nets and equipment. Do not medicate automatically: the wrong treatment can mask symptoms, damage filtration or harm invertebrates.

Ordering, delivery and first-order saving

This listing represents one male per quantity selected. Stock status and price shown in the buy box are the current source of truth. When the fish is unavailable, use the restock option rather than ordering a visually similar female or different strain by mistake.

Eligible livestock orders are covered by our Live Arrival Guarantee. Read the evidence and timing requirements before dispatch, keep the parcel available for the required unboxing record and contact us promptly if livestock arrives compromised. Current courier areas, packing information and dispatch timing are explained on the delivery page.

The first week after delivery

Preparation should be complete before a dispatch date is accepted. The aquarium must be cycled, heated, covered and tested, with no planned deep clean or major aquascape on arrival day. Keep a clean container, net, water conditioner and test kit available. If the fish will enter quarantine, that system needs mature filtration and matching conditions too; a newly filled emergency tub is not equivalent to a ready quarantine tank.

Arrival day

Take the required unboxing record while the parcel and bags are still sealed. Inspect the bag for temperature, movement and obvious damage, then follow the current supplied acclimation instructions. Keep aquarium lights low. Avoid tipping courier water into the aquarium when the instructions call for net transfer, and never leave an opened transport bag standing for a long period: the chemistry of transport water changes after fresh air enters it.

Once released, allow the male to find cover. Temporary pale colour or hiding can be a normal stress response. Do not tap the glass, repeatedly net the fish or add several foods to force a reaction. Check breathing and balance from a distance and contact support the same day if condition is clearly compromised.

Days two to three

Offer a very small familiar food and remove uneaten material. Test water if the tank is newly stocked or if behaviour is unusual. Watch whether established fish allow the newcomer to feed. A quarantine tank makes this easier because appetite, waste and symptoms can be observed without competition.

Days four to seven

Increase feeding only to the normal small routine after the fish is active and eating. Continue observing fins, breathing and body condition. Do not add another batch of livestock immediately; spacing introductions gives the biofilter and keeper time to respond. If the fish is intended for a breeding group, confirm that it is settled and healthy before introducing females or moving it again.

Keep the order information and stock identity with your aquarium records. For a colour strain with unverified lineage, record it exactly as supplied rather than simplifying it to “wild Endler.” Honest records are useful when fish are later rehomed, bred or compared with another line.

Compare other Endler listings

Colour and sex labels matter, so compare the product name and current stock rather than choosing from the thumbnail alone. Available alternatives may include Red Endler guppy, El Tigre Endler male, Female Endler guppy and assorted Endler guppies. These are separate products with their own identity, price and availability.

Frequently asked questions

Is this a pure Poecilia wingei?

It is supplied as a Red Male Endler under the Poecilia wingei trade identity, but no documented wild-line or pedigree provenance was supplied. Treat it as captive Endler-type stock and do not represent offspring as a certified pure wild line.

Will my fish look exactly like the gallery image?

No. The current image is an illustrative pale, spotted Endler-type reference and is not the red male being sold. Exact red coverage, fin pattern and markings vary between live fish. Confirm current stock appearance before dispatch when a particular trait is essential.

How many fish does one quantity buy?

One quantity buys one male fish. It is not a pair or a group. Plan its social group before ordering and do not keep a single Endler permanently alone.

What size tank does a male Endler need?

Use a fully cycled aquarium of at least 40 litres for a small group. Mixed-sex colonies and community tanks usually need 60 litres or more, depending on the complete stocking plan and likely fry.

What temperature is best?

The useful range is about 22-28°C, with 24-26°C a practical everyday target. Stability, oxygen and water quality matter more than pushing the aquarium to either edge of the range.

Can I keep only male Endlers?

Yes, a properly sized male-only group can work and avoids fry. Keep several, provide planting and monitor persistent chasing. A cramped pair of males is more likely to concentrate attention on one fish.

Can Endlers live with common guppies?

Their care needs are compatible and they can live together, but they can also produce fertile hybrids. Keep them separate if species identity, pedigree or colour-line consistency matters.

Are Endlers suitable with shrimp?

Adults may coexist with larger shrimp in a planted aquarium, but newborn shrimp can be eaten. Use dense moss and separate valuable breeding shrimp; do not assume Endlers are completely shrimp safe.

Do Endlers need a heater and filter?

They need stable tropical water and a mature biological filter. A heater is normally required in UK homes unless the room reliably maintains the chosen temperature. A separate air pump is optional when filtration already provides good surface movement.

How should I feed a Red Male Endler?

Offer tiny portions of a complete micro pellet or fine flake, rotated with small frozen or live foods and some algae-based content. One or two small feeds daily are enough for most adult groups.

Will one male breed?

Not in a male-only aquarium. In a mixed-sex group, breeding is very likely. Use several females per male, provide fry cover and plan where surplus young will go before adding females.

What does the Live Arrival Guarantee cover?

Eligible livestock is covered for arrival condition under the current published terms. Review the guarantee instructions before delivery because prompt evidence, including the required unboxing record, is important for a claim.

Scientific and husbandry references

• FishBase species summary for Poecilia wingei: accepted taxonomy, distribution, sexual dimorphism and conservation record.
• Poeser, Kempkes and Isbrücker (2005): the original scientific description of Poecilia wingei from Venezuela.
• Peer-reviewed hybridisation research: experimental evidence concerning the close relationship and viable crosses between P. wingei and P. reticulata.
• Aquarium Co-Op Endler care guide: experienced aquarium-husbandry guidance on size, group care, water range, feeding and breeding.

Editorial standard: scientific references support species-level facts; supplier identity and current Shopify stock support the commercial offer. Where evidence is missing, this listing says so instead of turning a trade label or illustrative image into a certainty.