Lwanda Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara sp. 'Lwanda')

Know what this peacock cichlid is

The Lwanda Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara sp. 'Lwanda') is a haplochromine cichlid for a carefully planned Lake Malawi aquarium. It suits a keeper prepared to maintain hard, alkaline water, substantial biological filtration and a deliberately structured cichlid community. WoRMS places Aulonocara in the family Cichlidae, while Wikipedia describes the genus as endemic to Lake Malawi in East Africa.

Peacock cichlid, aulonocara and peacock are established aquarium names for members of this genus. All members of Aulonocara are maternal mouth brooders, and the genus is strongly sexually dichromic. Those genus traits do not identify the sex or eventual appearance of an individual fish.

The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Aulonocara and its care group. Plan the aquarium and companions for the mature Malawi community rather than the size supplied.

Keep the aquarium at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6, general hardness 12–18°dH and carbonate hardness 10–15°dKH. OATA's African Malawi cichlid guidance gives these group planning values, together with an aquarium of at least 200 litres for a reasonably sized community and a group of at least 15 Malawi cichlids.

Choose the dispatch size with care

One purchase supplies one live fish. Use the live size selector to choose the labelled 2–3 cm, 4–5 cm, 6–7 cm or XL grade. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. XL is a dispatch label rather than a stated measurement, so compare it only as a catalogue grade.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Lwanda Peacock Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Aulonocara is strongly sexually dichromic, but that biological trait is not a basis for assigning sex from a dispatch size or gallery image. Plan the community so that it remains workable without relying on a particular fish being male or female.

Some gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. They show the listed type of animal rather than guaranteeing the exact markings of the individual supplied, so natural colour and pattern can vary.

Read the labels in the right order

• Identity: the animal is labelled Aulonocara sp. 'Lwanda', which names a genus but not an exact species.
• Purchase unit: each purchase supplies one fish.
• Dispatch grade: the selected label describes the size supplied.
• Long-term planning: base the aquarium on Malawi group requirements rather than the size supplied.

Make the go or no-go decision

Choose this peacock cichlid only when the aquarium is being planned as a Malawi community. OATA advises keeping Malawi cichlids only with other Malawi cichlids or certain Synodontis catfish species that also naturally inhabit Lake Malawi. This rules out choosing companions merely because they tolerate alkaline water.

Before committing, check four points: the aquarium holds at least 200 litres for a reasonably sized community; the stocking plan reaches at least 15 Malawi cichlids rather than stopping at a small quarrelsome group; the filter can carry a deliberately dense community; and the water remains within the stated hard, alkaline range.

Browse the African cichlid collection to compare identities, but assess every proposed combination for aggression, group structure and water requirements before mixing it. A shared regional label is not a universal compatibility guarantee.

Pause the plan when

• ammonia or nitrite is above 0 mg/L;
• the filter has not developed a working biological bacterial population;
• the intended aquarium is below the 200-litre community baseline;
• the proposed companions fall outside the Malawi cichlid and assessed Lake Malawi Synodontis rule;
• there is no practical way to perform weekly testing and water changes.

Plan space for a Malawi community

Use an aquarium of at least 200 litres for a reasonably sized Malawi cichlid community. This figure comes from OATA's group guidance rather than an individual minimum for Aulonocara sp. 'Lwanda'. Buy as large an aquarium as practical because greater water volume makes temperature and water quality more stable.

The 200-litre figure and the group recommendation must be considered together. OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15, that slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly through the population, and that small groups will often fight. A nominally large aquarium is not ready for that plan unless filtration, aeration and routine maintenance can support the resulting waste load.

Use the baseline as a decision tool

• Below 200 litres: do not use the aquarium for a Malawi community.
• At 200 litres: treat the volume as the starting baseline and assess the whole group, filtration and water quality together.
• Above 200 litres: use the extra volume for greater environmental stability, not as permission to add fish without measuring the filter's response.

Prepare and biologically mature the aquarium before the fish arrives. Our guide to preparing and maturing an aquarium explains the sequence. A mature aquarium has a working bacterial population in its filter; age alone does not make an aquarium biologically ready.

Check readiness before the first addition

Write down the planned final number of Malawi cichlids, the aquarium volume and the intended order of introduction before adding fish. This turns the 200-litre and 15-fish figures into one community plan instead of two unrelated targets. Confirm that the filter is operating normally, aeration is strong and weekly maintenance can be completed without disrupting the whole aquarium.

Use water tests as the final readiness check. Ammonia and nitrite must both read 0 mg/L before an addition. If either value rises after fish are introduced, pause further additions while the biological filter catches up. A larger aquarium gives more stability, but the test results still decide whether the waste-processing capacity is ready for another increase.

Size the aquarium for the mature Malawi community from the start, beginning at the 200-litre community baseline, rather than for the size supplied.

Keep hard, alkaline water stable

Keep the water at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and general hardness 12–18°dH. Maintain carbonate hardness at 10–15°dKH. These values come from OATA's Malawi cichlid guidance and should be used together: temperature alone cannot show whether the aquarium provides appropriate mineral conditions.

Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/L. Nitrate should not exceed 20 mg/L above the normal level in the tap water used for the aquarium. Measure the tap baseline rather than assuming nitrate begins at zero.

Apply the nitrate limit correctly

If the tap water measures 15 mg/L nitrate, keep the aquarium nitrate no higher than 35 mg/L, because 15 plus 20 equals 35. That number is a ceiling, not a target. If a weekly result is climbing towards it, review feeding, waste removal, stocking pace and the effectiveness of water changes before the limit is crossed.

Use our water chemistry guide to understand what each test measures, then compare measured results with this profile using the water matcher. Record results consistently so that a trend is visible before it becomes a serious change.

Test a complete working set

• Temperature: 23–27°C.
• pH: 8.0–8.6.
• General hardness: 12–18°dH.
• Carbonate hardness: 10–15°dKH.
• Ammonia: 0 mg/L.
• Nitrite: 0 mg/L.
• Nitrate: no more than 20 mg/L above the normal tap-water level.

Respond to a changed reading

Compare each result with both the required range and the previous result. A pH reading of 8.2 remains within range, but a steady movement towards either boundary still deserves attention because the direction may continue. Check replacement-water preparation, carbonate hardness and recent changes to the aquarium before making further additions.

When ammonia or nitrite is detectable, stop treating the aquarium as ready for more fish. Review the recent stocking and feeding increase, confirm that water is moving through the filter and test again after corrective maintenance. For nitrate, compare the aquarium result with the tap-water baseline so that the 20 mg/L allowance is calculated from the water actually used.

Treat replacement tap water with conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium. Consistent preparation protects both the fish and the beneficial bacteria carrying the biological filter.

Build filtration for the waste load

Run an oversized filter and provide strong aeration. OATA recommends both because successful Malawi communities need crowded conditions: the filter must process the waste generated by the group, while aeration helps maintain enough dissolved oxygen.

The RSPCA explains why biological filtration is essential. Fish release toxic ammonia; beneficial bacteria convert it to nitrite, which is also toxic, and then to the safer nitrate measured during routine testing. A filter is therefore a living biological system as well as a device that collects visible debris.

Judge filtration by results

• Ammonia above 0 mg/L: the aquarium is not processing waste safely.
• Nitrite above 0 mg/L: the biological cycle is not keeping pace with the load.
• Rising nitrate: waste is being processed, but feeding, stocking and water changes still need active control.
• Reduced flow: check the filter for blockages rather than assuming the original rating still reflects its performance.

Add fish gradually because the filter's bacterial population must increase whenever fish numbers and feeding rise. Adding too many fish too quickly can leave too few nitrifying bacteria to handle the extra waste, causing new tank syndrome and dangerous ammonia or nitrite.

Check the filter after each stocking step

Take a baseline ammonia, nitrite and nitrate reading before fish numbers increase. Continue testing after the addition and compare the results with that baseline rather than relying on clear water or normal-looking flow. The filter is keeping pace only when ammonia and nitrite remain at 0 mg/L while nitrate is controlled within the stated limit.

If flow falls, inspect for blockages during maintenance. If ammonia or nitrite appears after feeding and fish numbers rise, pause the stocking sequence and reduce the pressure on the biological system while it recovers. Strong aeration supports the community, but it does not replace bacterial waste processing or remove the need to control uneaten food.

Do not use visual clarity as the only test. Clear water can still contain ammonia or nitrite, so weekly measurements remain necessary. Likewise, an oversized filter does not cancel the need for measured feeding, partial water changes or a stocking assessment.

Choose substrate and décor for digging

Use coral sand or a similar substrate that helps buffer the hard, alkaline water required by Malawi cichlids. Check pH, general hardness and carbonate hardness after setup rather than assuming the substrate alone will hold every value within range.

Malawi cichlids will often dig and rearrange the substrate, which will uproot any plants present. Do not make delicate planting the foundation of the aquarium plan. Leave practical access for weekly siphoning to remove solid waste from the substrate.

Plan for change rather than a fixed display

• Expect the surface of the substrate to be moved by the fish.
• Check that rearranged substrate has not obstructed filter intakes or reduced water movement.
• Inspect plants after digging and remove loose material before it decays.
• Keep décor accessible because rearranging it may later help reset territories when aggression develops.

A Malawi aquarium must remain functional after the fish has altered it. Test whether water can still circulate, the filter can still draw freely and waste can still be siphoned from the areas where it gathers.

Décor is also part of aggression management. OATA advises that rearranging it can reduce aggression by making fish establish new territories. Use that intervention deliberately after observing a territorial problem rather than repeatedly disturbing a settled community without a reason.

Feed small, measured portions

Feed twice a day and give only what the fish can eat within a few minutes. OATA uses this portion rule for Malawi cichlids because excess food breaks down and releases toxic waste, increasing the load on the filter.

Choose the food according to the animal's dietary type rather than assuming all Malawi cichlids eat the same staple. OATA separates the group's feeding guidance into two broad patterns: the smaller mbuna species are more herbivorous and will appreciate specialised high-algae Malawi foods and fresh vegetables, while larger utaka species that are more predatory will require pellets with a higher animal content plus frozen brine shrimp, prawns or cockles.

Keep each feed to what the fish clears within a few minutes, twice a day, and remove anything left over. A specialist Malawi formulation still needs to match that dietary assessment; the words “cichlid food” alone do not settle whether its main ingredients are suitable.

Use feeding response to control the portion

• Food remains after a few minutes: reduce the next portion because the current amount is too large.
• Uneaten food reaches the substrate: remove it during waste maintenance rather than allowing it to decay.
• Interest in food falls: test water quality and compare the change with the fish's usual behaviour.
• Body condition changes: review portion size and food choice instead of adding food automatically.

Variety does not mean offering every listed food at once. Build a measured routine around the correct dietary branch, keep each feed short and use weekly nitrate results to check whether the combined feeding and maintenance plan is controlling waste.

Acclimatise with the store procedure

Film every delivery from the sealed parcel onward before opening, floating or releasing the fish. Show the parcel still sealed, open it in one continuous take and show the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed. Keep the video with your order number for any Live Arrival Guarantee claim. Open and inspect the parcel on the day it arrives.

Arrange for someone to receive the parcel because live fish must not be left unattended. Tropical Fish Co hand-bags fish in oxygen, uses an insulated poly box and adds a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A courier licensed to carry live animals transports the parcel, with tracking and the confirmed delivery date sent by email.

Float the bag in the aquarium for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish. Never pour the bag water into the aquarium. These are the acclimatisation steps in the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy.

Check the aquarium before release

Check the aquarium before release:

• Confirm that temperature is within 23–27°C.
• Confirm that ammonia and nitrite are both 0 mg/L.
• Check that pH is 8.0–8.6 and general hardness is 12–18°dH.
• Make sure the filter and aeration are running normally.
• Confirm that the proposed community follows the Malawi compatibility plan.

OATA advises increasing the fish population slowly so the filter bacteria can expand as fish numbers and feeding rise. It also recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups to reduce the chance of one individual receiving concentrated aggression while settling in. Balance those instructions through a planned stocking sequence rather than making an unmeasured large addition.

Use the first observations to guide action

After release, compare the newcomer with the warning signs OATA identifies: unusual swimming, altered breathing, darker or paler colour, increased hiding, changed aggression, physical damage or reduced feeding. A single observation is a prompt to look more closely rather than a diagnosis.

Test ammonia and nitrite when behaviour or breathing changes, because both values should remain at 0 mg/L. Also inspect the social pattern: concentrated chasing or hiding may point to aggression during settlement. Record what changed and when, as that helps distinguish a brief settling response from a pattern that continues.

Complete the weekly maintenance cycle

Change 25% of the water at least once every week and test the water at least weekly. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate, and treat replacement tap water with conditioner before adding it to the aquarium.

Check the filter for blockages during the same maintenance cycle. When filter media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. Do not rinse biological media under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill part of the beneficial bacterial population.

Record the result, not just the task

• Before the change: record temperature, pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
• During the change: remove visible solid waste and check the filter flow.
• Before replacement water enters: add the required tap-water conditioner.
• After maintenance: confirm that filtration and aeration are operating normally.

Watch for hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom, erratic swimming, faster or slower gill movement, unusual hiding, a change in aggression, darker or paler colour, white spots, fluffy growths, lost fins or scales, ulcerations, bumps, changing body condition or reduced interest in food. These are warning signs rather than diagnoses.

If behaviour, breathing, appearance or feeding changes, test water quality first. A result above 0 mg/L ammonia or nitrite requires immediate attention to water quality and biological filtration. Contact us for health guidance when a concerning change persists or when the fish shows physical damage.

A completed water change is not the end of the decision. Compare the new reading with previous weeks: a repeated nitrate rise, falling filter flow or recurring aggression shows that the underlying feeding, stocking or maintenance plan needs adjustment.

Screen every proposed companion

Keep this fish only with carefully selected other Malawi cichlids or some Synodontis catfish species that naturally inhabit Lake Malawi. OATA gives that rule for Malawi cichlids and warns that all members of the group are aggressive and should be mixed with caution.

Do not turn that rule into a universal tank-mate list. “Malawi cichlid” covers fish with different sizes and levels of aggression, while only some Synodontis species fit the stated regional exception. Screen the exact identity of every companion rather than relying on a family name or alkaline-water requirement.

Use a four-part compatibility check

• Identity: is the proposed fish another Malawi cichlid or an appropriate Lake Malawi Synodontis?
• Space: does the aquarium hold at least 200 litres and still support the full community?
• Group structure: will the plan reach at least 15 Malawi cichlids rather than leaving a small group?
• Filtration: can oversized filtration and strong aeration carry the planned load while ammonia and nitrite remain at 0 mg/L?

Work through a proposed addition

Start with identity. If the proposed companion is neither a Malawi cichlid nor an assessed Synodontis from Lake Malawi, it falls outside OATA's stated compatibility rule. If it passes that first check, calculate the resulting group size and confirm that the aquarium remains suitable for the whole community rather than only the new fish.

Next, review the introduction order. More peaceful species should enter before more aggressive species, and Malawi cichlids should be added in groups so one newcomer is less likely to receive all the aggression. Finally, use ammonia and nitrite results after an addition to decide when the biological filter is ready for the next stocking step.

Avoid a general mixed community outside that rule. Do not approve a companion simply because it shares the temperature or pH range: social behaviour, regional grouping and the effect on total waste all remain part of the decision.

Before introducing a proposed mix, check the aquarium volume, every fish's identity, fish numbers, water readings and intended additions against the whole community rather than a name in isolation.

Manage aggression through group planning

Treat aggression as a core planning issue. OATA describes Malawi cichlids as aggressive fish, says small groups will often fight, and says they can be kept in groups of at least 15 with the slight overstocking required to spread aggression evenly through the population.

Slight overstocking is not permission to exceed the filter's capacity. It works only as part of a controlled Malawi plan with an aquarium of at least 200 litres, oversized filtration, strong aeration, 0 mg/L ammonia and nitrite, and weekly maintenance. If those conditions cannot be maintained, adding fish is not an aggression solution.

Build the community in the safer order

1. Plan the final Malawi group before making additions.
2. Add fish in groups so one newcomer does not receive all the settling-in aggression.
3. Add more peaceful species before more aggressive species.
4. Where sexes are known, keep more females than males of each species to reduce the chance of one female receiving repeated male attention.
5. Rearrange décor when territorial aggression calls for established boundaries to be reset.

The genus is strongly sexually dichromic, and OATA notes that many Malawi cichlids only show differences between the sexes once they become adults, not as juveniles. Base any female-to-male balance on fish whose sex is known, never on the size supplied or a gallery image.

Watch for a change in aggression, increased hiding, damaged fins or scales, erratic swimming and reduced feeding. If those signs appear, test water quality and review the stocking sequence, group size and territories together. Fin damage is a reason to investigate conflict.

Separate a brief dispute from a pattern

Record which fish chases, which fish retreats and whether the same individual repeatedly loses access to space or food. Repeated hiding, damage or reduced feeding indicates a continuing problem that needs action. Check ammonia and nitrite at the same time so social pressure is not assessed separately from water quality.

When established territories are driving conflict, rearranging décor can make the fish establish new boundaries. Review the entire stocking plan before adding more fish, because the group recommendation works only alongside adequate space, oversized filtration and strong aeration. Continue watching after any change to see whether pressure is spread or simply transferred to another individual.

Compatibility remains conditional throughout the life of the community. Growth, additions and rearranged territories can change social pressure, so continue observing the group after the initial introduction.

Answer common keeper questions

How big does the Lwanda Peacock Cichlid get?

Plan the aquarium and companions for the mature Malawi community rather than the size supplied; the 2–3 cm, 4–5 cm, 6–7 cm and XL grades are dispatch sizes, not adult sizes.

What size aquarium does the Lwanda Peacock Cichlid need?

OATA's Malawi group guidance recommends at least 200 litres for a reasonably sized community; this is a community baseline, not an individual minimum. Use as large an aquarium as practical because larger volumes are more stable.

How many Malawi cichlids should be kept with it?

Plan the Lwanda Peacock Cichlid within a group of at least 15 Malawi cichlids, following OATA's Malawi group guidance; small groups will often fight. Slight overstocking is required to spread aggression evenly, so match it with oversized filtration and strong aeration.

Is the Lwanda Peacock Cichlid suitable for beginners?

OATA describes Malawi cichlids as usually undemanding and easy to keep apart from their aggression, but they need specialised hard, alkaline water and careful mixing, so this is not a simple mixed-community choice.

What does this peacock cichlid eat?

Feed the Lwanda Peacock Cichlid twice daily, giving only what it eats within a few minutes. Remove any food left after a few minutes so it cannot break down in the aquarium.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18°dH. OATA gives these as Malawi group guidance, with carbonate hardness at 10–15°dKH; keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/L.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Treat this fish as aggressive because OATA says all Malawi cichlids are aggressive and should be mixed with caution. Fin damage is a warning sign to check behaviour, stocking and water quality.

Which animals can it live with?

Keep it only with carefully selected other Malawi cichlids or some Synodontis catfish species that naturally inhabit Lake Malawi, following OATA's compatibility rule. Every mix needs screening for aquarium size, group structure and aggression.

How does the fish arrive alive in the UK?

Film every delivery from the sealed parcel onward before opening, floating or releasing the fish. Show the parcel still sealed, open it in one continuous take and show the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed. Keep the video with your order number for any Live Arrival Guarantee claim. Open and inspect the parcel on the day it arrives. Tropical Fish Co hand-bags the fish in oxygen, uses an insulated poly box and adds a heat pack when weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel; someone must receive it, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes and never pour bag water into the aquarium.

Consult the reference library

• WoRMS — accepted genus and family identity.
• Wikipedia: Aulonocara — genus distribution, aquarium names, sexual dichromatism and maternal mouth brooding.
• OATA: African Malawi cichlids — group water, aquarium, feeding, maintenance and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA aquarium environment guidance — biological filtration and the nitrogen cycle.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy — packing, attendance and acclimatisation procedure.