Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail (Tylomelania sp.)

Know what the name identifies

The Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail (Tylomelania sp.) is a freshwater gastropod mollusc from the family Pachychilidae. WoRMS accepts Tylomelania as a genus, while the hobby commonly calls members of this genus rabbit snails. A summary of the genus on Wikipedia describes these aquatic snails as having an operculum. This animal suits a keeper prepared to run a filtered, mature aquarium, test its water regularly and screen every treatment and tank mate for invertebrate safety.

Keep the aquarium at 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 4–18°dGH. OATA’s freshwater shrimp and snail sheet gives these figures for the group, along with 3–15°dKH, zero ammonia, zero nitrite and nitrate no more than 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. These are broad planning values for freshwater snails rather than an exact optimum for every member of Tylomelania.

Good husbandry and stable water quality are essential for this snail. The filter must support the beneficial bacteria that process livestock waste, while weekly testing lets you find ammonia or nitrite before either can harm the snail. Copper is another firm limit: freshwater snails will die if exposed even to low levels, so every aquarium treatment must be explicitly safe for invertebrates.

Do not treat the snail as a substitute for maintenance. OATA describes freshwater snails as algae grazers, but still recommends supplementary food and routine water changes. Its grazing can form part of the aquarium’s feeding pattern; it does not remove the need to control waste, clean the filter correctly or test the water.

Match the aquarium to its needs

Begin planning around approximately 20 litres for the snail alone, then use a larger aquarium when fish or additional livestock share the system. OATA recommends at least 10 litres for a group of small freshwater shrimp or snails, approximately 20 litres for larger species and more space whenever fish are included. The 20-litre starting point gives a snail supplied at 4–6 cm more room than the smallest shrimp and snails need.

The larger the aquarium, the easier it is to keep temperature and water quality stable. Volume is only one part of the decision: the aquarium also needs an established biological filter, aquarium sand or gravel, and cover from live plants or suitable artificial plants and ornaments. The snail must be introduced gradually rather than as part of a rapid increase in livestock, because the filter’s bacterial population needs time to adjust to extra waste and feeding.

Plan the aquarium for the grown snail rather than the size supplied. Keep enough flexibility to move the snail into a larger aquarium if its eventual growth, waste production or a future mixed community makes that necessary. Treat aquarium volume as part of the snail's welfare and enlarge the aquarium whenever its needs grow.

Understand exactly what you receive

One purchase supplies one live Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail. The dispatch size is 4–6 cm, which describes the animal when supplied and must not be treated as its adult size. There is no size to choose.

The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Tylomelania and its care group. That genus-level identity is important when planning space and water: use the stated freshwater-snail parameters as working limits, observe the animal carefully and retain room to adapt the aquarium as it grows.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Choose this snail for a mature freshwater aquarium in which filtration, water testing and treatment safety are already routine. Do not base the decision on an expectation that it will clean the aquarium by itself. Its algae grazing still needs supplementary feeding, and uneaten food or livestock waste must still be controlled through measured portions and maintenance.

If you are comparing freshwater gastropods rather than choosing tank mates, browse the current snails collection. Compare identity, eventual space requirements, feeding and predator exclusions separately for each animal; one snail’s care profile should not be transferred automatically to another.

Set water targets before introduction

Keep the temperature between 17°C and 27°C, pH between 6.5 and 8.0, general hardness between 4°dGH and 18°dGH, and carbonate hardness between 3°dKH and 15°dKH. Measure the aquarium rather than relying on an assumption about tap water. Our water-chemistry guide explains what the principal measurements mean, while the water matcher helps compare measured aquarium values with the stated guidance.

Ammonia and nitrite must both read zero mg per litre. Nitrate must not exceed 20 mg per litre above the normal level in the tap water used for the aquarium.

Check the complete water picture

• Temperature: keep it within 17–27°C and prevent equipment failure from pushing it outside the working range.
• Acidity and alkalinity: keep pH within 6.5–8.0 and check it with a suitable aquarium test.
• Mineral measurements: use 4–18°dGH and 3–15°dKH as the freshwater-snail planning ranges.
• Toxic waste: ammonia and nitrite must remain at zero, supported by a mature biological filter.
• Nitrate: compare the aquarium result with the normal tap-water level and keep the increase within 20 mg per litre.

Write down results so that a change is visible rather than relying on memory. A single reading tells you the aquarium’s condition at that moment; a simple sequence of readings shows whether waste is beginning to rise. If ammonia or nitrite appears, pause further livestock additions and restore safe water quality before increasing feeding or stocking.

Build a filtered, mature aquarium

Use an aquarium with a working filter from the outset. OATA states that filtration is always essential for freshwater shrimp and snails, and the RSPCA’s aquarium guidance explains the biological process: beneficial bacteria convert toxic ammonia into nitrite and then into the safer nitrate. Maturing that biological filter before the snail arrives reduces the risk of new tank syndrome.

Start with approximately 20 litres as a cautious planning point for the snail alone and increase the aquarium size when fish are included. Choose as large an aquarium as practical because greater water volume makes temperature and water quality more stable. Do not use litres as the only test of suitability; filtration, measured water chemistry, cover and a gradual stocking plan all matter.

Give the aquarium the essential structure

• Substrate: include aquarium gravel or sand rather than leaving the setup without the substrate recommended in OATA’s invertebrate guidance.
• Cover: use live plants where practical. If live plants are not used, add artificial plants and suitable ornaments such as model caves.
• Filtration: select a filter that can run continuously and can be maintained without washing away its beneficial bacteria.
• Maturation: establish the filter before adding livestock, then increase stocking and feeding slowly.

A first aquarium should be prepared before the animal is ordered, not assembled around it after arrival. Our guide to preparing and maturing an invertebrate aquarium gives a practical framework for setting up the filter and checking water before livestock is introduced.

Test ammonia and nitrite before introduction. Both must be zero. Check that temperature, pH, GH and KH fall within the working ranges and that the filter is flowing normally. These checks turn “mature” into measurable conditions: functioning filtration and safe test results, rather than merely an aquarium that has been filled for a certain number of days.

Feed measured portions without fouling the water

Feed this snail two or three times a week. Freshwater snails are generally herbivorous and graze algae in the aquarium, but OATA says that grazing should be supplemented with algae wafers. Commercial shrimp pellets can also be used for freshwater snails. Offer these foods at each feed, because algae grazing should be supplemented to make sure the snail is given enough food.

Give a small measured portion and allow at least 30 minutes for feeding. The 30-minute period matters because snails need time to reach and consume prepared food. Watch what remains after that period and remove persistent residue before it breaks down. Uneaten food releases waste into the water, increasing pressure on the biological filter and raising the risk of ammonia, nitrite or excess nitrate.

Adjust the next portion from what you observe

• If food remains: remove the residue and offer less at the next scheduled feed.
• If food disappears: check whether the snail or other inhabitants ate it, and wait for the next scheduled feed rather than adding a second portion.
• If interest falls: check activity and water-test results alongside the feeding response.
• If waste values rise: pause any increase in feeding or stocking and correct the aquarium conditions.

Variety can come from alternating algae wafers and suitable commercial shrimp pellets. Do not add several foods at the same sitting merely to create variety; that makes it difficult to judge the amount eaten and increases the amount that can decay. The aim is regular access to supplementary food with minimal residue.

Feeding and filtration work together. A mature filter processes ordinary waste, but it is not permission to overfeed. Portion control keeps the load predictable, while weekly testing confirms whether the system is coping. If the snail repeatedly shows reduced interest in food, treat that as a health or water-quality signal rather than trying to solve it with a larger portion.

Maintain the aquarium each week

Change 25% of the aquarium water at least once every week. A siphon can remove solid waste from the gravel while water is taken out.

Treat replacement tap water with a suitable conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium. Check the new water against the aquarium’s working temperature and chemistry plan so that maintenance supports stability. After the change, confirm that the filter is running and that no inlet or outlet has become blocked.

Protect the biological filter

1. Check the filter for blockages during the weekly maintenance routine.
2. If cleaning is needed, retain some of the aquarium water removed during the partial change.
3. Rinse the filter media lightly in that removed aquarium water.
4. Do not run the filter media under the tap, because chlorine or chloramine may kill beneficial bacteria established in it.
5. Return the filter to operation and confirm that water is moving normally.

Test ammonia and nitrite at least once a week and keep both at zero. Record nitrate relative to the normal tap-water level and keep the increase within 20 mg per litre. Periodic pH, GH and KH checks show whether the aquarium remains inside the stated freshwater-snail ranges rather than drifting between maintenance sessions.

Do not try to make the aquarium visually spotless by removing every trace of algae while relying on the snail to replace regular cleaning. Grazing is part of its feeding behaviour, but solid waste and uneaten prepared food still need attention. A useful weekly sequence is test, siphon, change 25%, condition the replacement water, check the filter and record the final observations.

Protect the snail and notice changes

Use only treatments that are explicitly safe for freshwater invertebrates. OATA warns that freshwater shrimp and snails will die if exposed even to low levels of copper. Check the label before adding any medication or chemical product to the aquarium, and do not assume that a treatment intended for fish is safe for a snail.

Regular observation gives you the clearest early warning. Observe the animal during feeding and ordinary aquarium checks so that a change stands out. OATA advises watching freshwater shrimp and snails for altered activity, unusual restlessness or inactivity, darker or paler colour, increased hiding, changed breathing effort, visible discolouration, lesions, abnormal growths, swelling, weight change and reduced interest in food.

Respond to the sign you can measure

• Reduced activity: test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, temperature and pH before changing the feeding plan.
• Reduced feeding: remove uneaten food, record the change and check whether other behaviour or appearance has altered.
• Visible damage or discolouration: inspect the aquarium for unsafe tank mates and review every recent treatment or additive.
• Changed breathing effort: check water quality and filter operation promptly.
• Ammonia or nitrite above zero: stop adding livestock and correct the water-quality problem.

Avoid guessing at a disease treatment from appearance alone. Different health problems can produce similar changes, while an invertebrate-unsafe medicine can create an additional hazard. If the snail's activity, feeding, breathing or appearance changes, test the water and contact us with the results and the names of treatments or additives used.

Keep a short maintenance and observation record. Dates, water values, food offered and visible changes give a more useful picture than a general impression that the animal seems different. This also helps separate a one-off feeding response from a continuing change that needs attention.

Introduce it without overloading the filter

Confirm the aquarium’s suitability before introduction. Temperature should be within 17–27°C, pH within 6.5–8.0, GH within 4–18°dGH and KH within 3–15°dKH. Ammonia and nitrite must both be zero. Check that the filter is operating normally and that the aquarium already contains gravel or sand and suitable cover.

Add freshwater snails and other livestock gradually. Every increase in livestock and feeding requires the filter’s beneficial bacterial population to process more waste. Adding too much too quickly can cause new tank syndrome, in which ammonia or nitrite rises because the biological filter cannot yet handle the additional load.

Use a measured introduction plan

• Before introduction: record the aquarium’s temperature, pH, GH, KH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
• At the first feed: offer a measured portion of algae wafer or suitable commercial shrimp pellets and allow at least 30 minutes for the snail to feed.
• After feeding: remove persistent residue rather than allowing it to decay.
• During observation: note activity, feeding response, colour and visible appearance without assuming that one position or movement has a fixed meaning.
• Before more livestock: confirm again that ammonia and nitrite remain at zero.

Do not combine the snail’s introduction with several other additions merely because the aquarium’s volume appears large enough. Greater volume helps stability, but it does not remove the need for the biological filter to adjust. A slow stocking sequence also makes it easier to identify which addition changed feeding demand or waste production.

Continue the normal weekly routine after introduction: test the water at least once a week, change 25% at least weekly, condition replacement tap water and inspect the filter for blockages. Introduction has gone well when safe readings and routine feeding stay consistent, not simply when the animal has been present for a set number of days.

Follow the arrival procedure in order

Plan to receive the parcel in person and follow the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy. The animal is hand-packed in oxygen inside an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and carried by a licensed live-animal courier.

Start before opening the parcel

1. Receive the sealed parcel: start filming before it is opened, keeping the sealed parcel and outer box visible.
2. Open it on camera: record the opening in one continuous take.
3. Show the sealed bag: record the animal while it is still inside the sealed bag and before anything is disturbed.
4. Inspect it the same day: complete the arrival check while keeping the continuous recording.
5. Float the bag: float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the snail.
6. Release the animal: do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

The continuous video begins with the parcel sealed even when everything appears normal. It preserves the complete arrival sequence and is required if a Live Arrival Guarantee claim is made. Keep the order number with the recording.

If a claim is needed, contact us the same day with the order number and the short continuous unboxing video showing the sealed parcel, the opening and the animal inside the sealed bag. Do not release the snail before the required condition in the sealed bag has been recorded.

Keep aquarium preparation separate from the parcel-opening sequence. Before delivery, the filter should already be mature and running, and the water should already meet the working temperature and chemistry ranges. Arrival day is for receiving, filming, floating the bag and releasing the animal into a prepared aquarium, not for beginning maturation or making several livestock additions.

Screen every tank mate for predation

Avoid pufferfish, loaches and any other fish that can eat snails. OATA states that freshwater snails should not be mixed with fish that can eat them and names pufferfish and loaches as examples. It also describes assassin snails as predators of other snail species, so do not place this rabbit snail with assassin snails.

Freshwater shrimp and snails are generally compatible with most aquarium species, but they should be mixed with caution because common aquarium fish may eat them. Screen each proposed companion for snail predation before considering shared water values or aquarium volume. If the animal is known to eat snails, reject the combination rather than attempting it after observation.

Apply the exclusion rule first

Predation screening is only the first step. A companion may still be unsuitable if it needs water outside 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 or the stated hardness ranges. Mixed livestock also requires more aquarium space than the snail-only planning point, and every treatment used for the community must remain safe for invertebrates.

Before adding any companion, check the aquarium dimensions, measured temperature, pH, GH and KH and the current inhabitants against the needs of the exact animal you propose adding. Those details allow a decision based on the actual aquarium rather than a general community label.

Match water, space and routine before mixing

After ruling out snail predators, compare the practical requirements of every proposed inhabitant. The shared aquarium must remain within the Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail’s working range of 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0, 4–18°dGH and 3–15°dKH. Use the overlap of the animals’ requirements; do not choose a midpoint unless it remains inside every inhabitant’s range.

Complete four checks before mixing

• Water check: confirm that temperature, pH, GH and KH can be held within the requirements of every inhabitant.
• Predation check: reject pufferfish, loaches, assassin snails and any animal known to eat snails.
• Space check: increase aquarium size beyond the snail-only planning point when fish or additional livestock are included.
• Treatment check: make sure every product used in the shared aquarium is safe for invertebrates and presents no copper risk.

Filtration must be planned for the whole community rather than the snail alone. Add inhabitants slowly so the beneficial bacteria can adjust as waste and feeding increase. Test ammonia and nitrite before another addition and keep both at zero. A large aquarium improves stability, but rapid stocking can still exceed the filter’s biological capacity.

Feeding also needs a whole-aquarium plan. The snail should receive algae wafers or suitable commercial shrimp pellets two or three times a week and have at least 30 minutes to feed. Observe whether food remains after that period and remove persistent residue. Do not solve competition by scattering excess food, because uneaten material breaks down and increases toxic waste.

Compatibility remains conditional as the community changes. Recheck space, filtration and feeding whenever another inhabitant is added. Review treatment safety before every medication or chemical addition, even if the same product has previously been used in a fish-only aquarium.

Answer common rabbit snail questions

How big does the Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail get?

Treat 4–6 cm strictly as its dispatch size, not its adult size. Plan the aquarium for the grown snail rather than the size supplied, and keep room to move it into a larger aquarium as it grows.

What size aquarium does this rabbit snail need?

OATA recommends at least 10 litres for a group of small freshwater shrimp or snails, approximately 20 litres for larger species and more when fish are included. Use approximately 20 litres as the cautious starting plan for this snail and increase it for mixed livestock.

How many Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snails should I keep?

You can plan to keep one because OATA describes freshwater snails as non-social animals. Additional snails increase feeding and waste, so enlarge the aquarium and add them gradually rather than treating a group as compulsory.

Is this snail suitable for beginners?

Plan it for a prepared keeper: mature the filter before the snail arrives, keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, test the water and change 25% of it at least once a week, and use only invertebrate-safe treatments.

What does the Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail eat?

OATA describes freshwater snails as generally herbivorous algae grazers. Supplement grazing with algae wafers or suitable commercial shrimp pellets two or three times a week, allow at least 30 minutes for feeding and remove persistent residue.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 17–27°C and pH 6.5–8.0 under OATA’s freshwater shrimp and snail guidance. Also maintain 4–18°dGH, 3–15°dKH, zero ammonia, zero nitrite and nitrate no more than 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.

Is the Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Plan around predation towards the snail rather than a claim of fin-nipping behaviour. OATA says freshwater snails should not be mixed with fish that can eat them, including pufferfish and loaches.

Which animals can this snail live with?

OATA describes freshwater snails as generally compatible with most aquarium species, but every companion needs screening. Avoid pufferfish, loaches, assassin snails and other snail eaters, then match water values, aquarium space and treatment safety.

How does the Yellow Spotted Rabbit Snail arrive alive?

It is hand-packed in oxygen in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when required. Receive it in person, film continuously from the sealed parcel, show the animal inside the sealed bag, float the bag for 20–30 minutes and do not pour bag water into the aquarium.

Check the care and identity references

• WoRMS: accepted Tylomelania genus and Pachychilidae family identity.
• Wikipedia: genus-level freshwater gastropod description, operculum and rabbit-snail hobby name.
• OATA: freshwater shrimp and snail water, aquarium, feeding, maintenance, health and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA: biological filtration and aquarium waste-processing principles.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy: packing, unboxing evidence, bag floating and arrival procedure.