Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp (Caridina cantonensis) – 1–2.5cm Sizes

Choose this shrimp for measured, stable care

Crystal Red Shrimp and Red Bee Shrimp are trade names for Caridina cantonensis, a small freshwater shrimp in the family Atyidae that reaches around 3 cm. It is native to China and Hong Kong, and possibly Vietnam. This shrimp suits keepers who can prepare a mature, filtered aquarium, test its water and plan a social group before introduction. The World Register of Marine Species recognises Caridina cantonensis as the accepted species name.

The Wikipedia summary for Caridina cantonensis describes bee shrimp as scavengers that eat small pieces of decayed vegetation and algae in nature. Many modern bee-shrimp forms have been selectively bred for particular characteristics, which helps explain why aquarium trade names distinguish forms within the same species.

Choose it when the aquarium can meet these needs

• A biologically mature filter can keep ammonia and nitrite at zero.
• You can test temperature, pH, hardness and nitrogen waste rather than judge water by appearance.
• The layout offers plants or other shelter and established grazing surfaces.
• You are planning a social group rather than treating one shrimp as an algae-cleaning tool.
• Every fish will be screened for whether it could swallow the shrimp or is known to be predatory.

This shrimp suits a keeper who prefers steady routines over frequent adjustments. Its small body makes water quality and tank-mate selection more important than decorative complexity. A simple mature aquarium with reliable testing and shelter is a stronger starting point than a newly assembled display with unstable readings.

Some gallery images are representative, based on reference photographs of this species, and none shows the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Choose the dispatch size and purchase quantity separately

The live size selector offers 1 cm, 1,5 cm and 2 - 2,5 cm. One purchase supplies one animal in the selected size. Increase the purchase quantity when planning more than one shrimp; choosing a size does not change the number of animals supplied.

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. OATA describes the smaller popular freshwater shrimp, including colour variants of Caridina cantonensis, at around 3 cm. Use that adult-length reference when planning the complete aquarium rather than assuming a 1 cm shrimp remains that size.

Choose through the live size selector after the aquarium has been tested. Do not use dispatch size to infer maturity, sex, origin or future appearance.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Review the delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy before arranging receipt, and prepare the aquarium before the journey. If you are comparing freshwater invertebrates, use the shrimp and crustacean collection to compare identities and care needs without treating different shrimp as interchangeable.

Plan the aquarium around the key numbers

OATA’s freshwater shrimp and snail guidance gives 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0, 4–18°dH general hardness and 3–15°dKH carbonate hardness for the group. It also recommends at least 10 litres for a group of small freshwater shrimp, says social shrimp should usually be kept in groups of at least five and advises more space when fish are present. These are group-planning values, not a species-specific optimum or a shrimp-per-litre formula.

Decide whether this plan fits

A 10-litre label does not mean every group fits every 10-litre aquarium. Substrate, equipment and hardscape reduce usable water, while feeding area, filtration, cover and tank mates change the load. Start with the complete adult community, then decide whether the footprint and filter provide enough capacity and access.

For example, five shrimp in a mature shrimp-only aquarium present a different decision from five shrimp sharing the same labelled volume with fish. The second plan needs extra space and a compatibility assessment because fish add waste and predation risk. Reaching the litre and group figures never overrides zero ammonia, zero nitrite or the need for a mature biological filter.

Build a mature, filtered home before introduction

Aquarium maturity is demonstrated by function: the biological filter must process the planned waste while tests remain at zero ammonia and zero nitrite. A clean appearance or a fixed number of days cannot replace those measurements. The RSPCA’s aquarium filtration guidance explains that beneficial bacteria convert toxic ammonia into nitrite and then into the safer nitrate stage.

Prepare the filter first

1. Install a filter sized for the aquarium and intended livestock load.
2. Allow the biological filter to establish before adding shrimp.
3. Test ammonia and nitrite and proceed only when both measure zero.
4. Check that the filter is functioning consistently before introduction.
5. Keep access clear so blockages can be found and corrected during maintenance.

OATA says a filter is essential whatever the aquarium size. It also recommends gravel or sand and ideally live plants for cover. When live plants are not used, aquarium-safe artificial plants and suitable ornaments can provide shelter. Arrange these features so shrimp can move between sheltered and exposed areas while you retain access for inspection and cleaning.

Established surfaces matter because freshwater shrimp graze algae, while Caridina cantonensis also scavenges small pieces of decayed vegetation in nature. Provide surfaces around plants, substrate, wood, rock or aquarium-safe ornaments, but do not expect grazing to replace planned feeding.

Check the finished layout

• Confirm the filter runs without interruption or blockage.
• Provide more than one sheltered area around the aquarium.
• Leave open access for food placement and waste removal.
• Make sure equipment can be checked without dismantling the whole layout.
• Test ammonia and nitrite again after the completed layout has settled.

Our shrimp-keeping setup guide can help organise maturation, testing and layout decisions before livestock arrives. Complete these jobs first; repeated structural changes after introduction make stability harder to maintain.

Use water tests as decisions, not decoration

Measure temperature, pH, general hardness, carbonate hardness, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before choosing this shrimp. The working screens are 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0, 4–18°dH, 3–15°dKH, zero ammonia and zero nitrite. Keep nitrate no more than 20 mg/L above the normal tap-water level.

The water chemistry guide explains what each measurement means, while the water matcher helps compare measured aquarium values with these planning ranges. Test the aquarium itself rather than relying only on a water-company average, because the aquarium contains substrate, decor, biological activity and treated replacement water.

Turn each result into an action

Nitrate requires comparison with the normal tap-water level. If tap water measures 15 mg/L nitrate, the OATA limit means the aquarium should not exceed 35 mg/L. If tap water measures 5 mg/L, the corresponding ceiling is 25 mg/L. These calculations do not replace the weekly trend: a rising result still calls for a review of feeding, waste and maintenance.

Do not chase a particular point within a range by making frequent abrupt adjustments. Select conditions shared by the complete community, maintain them consistently and compare results over time. A stable result inside the screens is more useful than repeated movement between their upper and lower edges.

Before arrival, confirm that the mature aquarium remains within these ranges, with zero ammonia and zero nitrite. Correct the aquarium plan before introduction rather than making a sudden adjustment while the shrimp is being transferred.

Feed to observed consumption and protect water quality

Freshwater shrimp graze algae in the aquarium, and Caridina cantonensis scavenges decayed vegetation and algae in nature. OATA advises supplementing this grazing with algae wafers or commercial pellets made for freshwater shrimp. Treat grazing as part of the feeding pattern, not as proof that the animals need no prepared food.

Feed two or three times a week. Give the shrimp at least 30 minutes to feed on pellets or wafers, then assess whether the portion matched the group. Recurring uneaten food means the next portion should be smaller because decomposing food releases waste into the water.

Use a simple weekly rhythm

This three-feed example sits within OATA’s two-or-three-times-a-week schedule; it is not a requirement to feed on those exact days. A two-feed rhythm may suit a smaller group or an aquarium with more established grazing, provided observation shows the shrimp are feeding and maintaining normal condition.

Read the response rather than guessing

• If several shrimp cannot reach the food, change placement so the group has more than one feeding access point.
• If food repeatedly remains after the feeding period, reduce the next portion and remove accumulating waste during maintenance.
• If feeding interest drops, test water and inspect equipment before changing foods repeatedly.
• If fish take every portion first, resolve the competition rather than adding enough food to create waste.
• If algae disappears from visible surfaces, continue the planned supplementary diet.

No fixed pellet count fits every food because pellet size and formulation vary. Begin conservatively, observe consumption for at least 30 minutes and adjust the next feed from what the group actually ate. This protects both nutrition and water quality without turning feeding into an unmeasured daily addition.

Maintain a weekly rhythm without damaging the filter

OATA strongly recommends a 25% partial water change at least once every week and water testing at least weekly. Use this as the regular maintenance baseline, then respond sooner when tests, behaviour or equipment indicate a problem.

Calculate the change from usable water

Calculate from the best estimate of actual water rather than the box label when substrate, decor and equipment displace a substantial volume. Treat replacement tap water with a suitable conditioner to remove harmful chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium. Keep the replacement process steady so temperature and chemistry do not change abruptly.

Protect the biological filter

• Check the filter for blockages during routine maintenance.
• When media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the water change.
• Do not run established filter media under the tap, because chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacteria.
• Inspect the equipment and clear accumulated debris.
• Use a siphon where appropriate to remove solid waste from accessible substrate.

Keep a short log of temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and water changes so trends are visible before they become emergencies. Record the measured result rather than writing only that the water looked clear.

A weekly test result is a decision point. Zero ammonia and zero nitrite support the existing routine; any detectable amount calls for prompt investigation of filtration, waste, feeding and recent additions. A nitrate result moving towards the permitted tap-water-plus-20 mg/L ceiling calls for a review even before the ceiling is crossed.

Avoid cleaning every established surface at once. Remove waste and blockages while preserving the functioning filter and useful grazing areas. The aim is a stable, maintained aquarium, not a sterile interior stripped of all established growth.

Introduce the shrimp with a condition-led plan

Prepare the aquarium before the journey. Confirm the filter is functioning and ammonia and nitrite are zero. Check temperature, pH and hardness on the same day so the transition begins with measured aquarium conditions.

Follow the arrival steps in order

1. Have someone present to receive the parcel; live animals must not be left unattended.
2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed and the outer box is visible.
3. Open the parcel in one continuous take and show the shrimp still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
4. Open and inspect the parcel on the day it arrives.
5. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the shrimp.
6. Never pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Keep the video and order number if a Live Arrival Guarantee claim is needed, and contact us the same day if something has gone wrong. The continuous recording allows the sealed parcel, opening and animal inside the bag to be assessed in sequence.

First-week checkpoints

Add livestock slowly. OATA warns that rapid stocking can outpace the beneficial bacteria established in the filter, causing ammonia and nitrite to rise. The same principle applies when feeding increases: extra food and livestock create an extra biological load even when the aquarium looked stable beforehand.

If a test changes after introduction, deal with the environmental cause before adding more animals. Check the filter, waste, feeding and recent additions, and preserve a calm layout while the system is assessed.

Build a social group without using a litre formula

OATA’s guidance treats shrimp as social and says they should usually be kept in groups of at least five. Use five as the starting social screen, then confirm that filtration, usable water, feeding surface, shelter and the complete adult community can support the group.

The group number and aquarium volume answer different questions. At least five addresses social planning, while at least 10 litres is the general aquarium recommendation for a group of small freshwater shrimp. Neither figure means one shrimp per two litres, and neither permits crowding when fish, snails or other animals already use the system.

Work through the plan in order

1. Calculate the usable water and assess the real footprint after decor and equipment.
2. Confirm mature filtration with zero ammonia and zero nitrite.
3. Reserve shelter and feeding access for a group of at least five.
4. Add the adult size and waste load of every other inhabitant.
5. Increase the aquarium plan when fish are included.
6. Add livestock slowly enough for the biological filter to respond.

For example, an empty mature shrimp aquarium may pass the social and volume screens once shelter, filtration and feeding access have been checked. A similarly sized aquarium already containing fish needs a different answer: OATA advises a larger aquarium with fish, and compatibility must account for predation as well as water quality.

If a group has fallen below five, test the aquarium and investigate why before adding animals. Check water quality, filtration, tank-mate behaviour and feeding access. Reaching five quickly is not more important than understanding a loss or preventing the filter from being overloaded.

Review after each addition

• Test ammonia and nitrite rather than assuming the filter absorbed the new load.
• Watch whether all shrimp can reach food.
• Check whether shelter remains accessible throughout the aquarium.
• Observe fish around the shrimp.
• Pause further additions when tests or behaviour change.

A well-planned group combines social care with biological capacity. Use the figures as checkpoints in that decision, not as permission to fill every litre.

Respond to health changes with measurements first

Learn the group’s normal activity, shelter use, colour, breathing and feeding response. OATA advises watching for increased inactivity, restlessness, unusual swimming, darker or paler colour, increased hiding, altered breathing, lesions, abnormal growths, exoskeleton damage, loss of appendages, swelling, weight change and reduced interest in food.

An empty exoskeleton may be a normal moult rather than a dead shrimp. Look for the animal itself and assess the whole aquarium before drawing a conclusion from one shell. Hiding alone also needs context from water tests, feeding and tank-mate behaviour.

When behaviour or appearance changes

1. Measure temperature, ammonia and nitrite immediately.
2. Review nitrate, pH and hardness against the aquarium’s normal trend.
3. Inspect the filter, circulation and any recent blockage.
4. Review recent livestock additions, feeding changes, maintenance and treatments.
5. Compare the affected shrimp with the rest of the group.
6. Record the timing and visible signs so changes can be described accurately.

Freshwater shrimp are very sensitive to copper and will die if exposed even to low levels. Before adding any medicine or aquarium treatment, read the current label and confirm that it is safe for every invertebrate in the aquarium. Do not improvise a reduced dose or mix products in an attempt to make an unsuitable treatment safe.

If signs are severe or persist, contact us for immediate husbandry checks and seek veterinary help. A list of signs cannot distinguish water-quality stress, treatment exposure, injury, predation or disease without examining the circumstances.

Prevent avoidable treatment risks

• Check every product label for invertebrate warnings before use.
• Keep treatment containers and measuring equipment clearly identified.
• Never assume a product safe for fish is automatically safe for shrimp.
• Test water promptly when several animals change behaviour together.
• Keep maintenance steady while avoiding unplanned chemical corrections.

Screen every fish pairing before mixing

OATA warns that freshwater shrimp may be eaten by common aquarium fish. Avoid fish able to fit the shrimp in their mouth and species known to be predatory. Use the fish’s adult mouth size for this decision rather than its size when young.

No fish pairing can be promised safe. Screen the intended community before mixing and keep watching after introduction, because individual behaviour and the aquarium layout can affect the result.

Run the compatibility screen

A shrimp-only aquarium removes fish predation from the plan, but it still needs mature filtration, group planning, appropriate feeding and weekly maintenance. Adding fish means using more than OATA’s at-least-10-litre small-shrimp screen and reassessing the complete biological load.

Ask us for a stocking and compatibility assessment when you have the aquarium volume, measured water values and scientific names plus adult sizes of every intended fish. Those details produce a more useful decision than a generic community label.

Compare complete community plans rather than names alone

Compatibility is a whole-aquarium decision. Start with the adult community and work backwards to the aquarium footprint, filtration, water conditions and shelter. Avoid every fish able to swallow the shrimp and every species known to be predatory.

Use the scenario that matches your aquarium

Do not infer compatibility from another animal sharing the family Atyidae or the genus Caridina. Shared classification does not replace the mouth-size, predation, water and aquarium-capacity checks for each intended inhabitant.

Respond to what you observe

• Keep shelter distributed around the aquarium.
• Watch interactions after introductions and during feeding.
• Recheck water after increasing the biological load.
• Pause further additions if shrimp disappear, are attacked or cannot reach food.
• Separate animals promptly if predatory behaviour appears.

A cautious decision is not based on whether a pairing worked in another aquarium. It combines measured water, adult dimensions, known feeding behaviour and enough space for the complete community.

Use these answers when planning the aquarium

How big does a Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp get?

Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp reaches around 3 cm under OATA’s adult-length reference for smaller popular freshwater shrimp. Plan the aquarium around 3 cm rather than the dispatch size.

What size aquarium does Caridina cantonensis need?

OATA recommends an aquarium of at least 10 litres for a group of small freshwater shrimp and a larger aquarium when fish are included. Usable water, mature filtration, shelter and the complete community must all fit the plan.

How many Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp should I keep together?

OATA’s group guidance says social shrimp should usually be kept in groups of at least five. Add them gradually and keep ammonia and nitrite at zero.

Is this shrimp suitable for beginners?

It suits a keeper prepared to mature the filter, test the water every week, maintain stable readings and screen every fish for predation risk. Do not introduce it while ammonia or nitrite is detectable.

What does Caridina cantonensis eat?

Caridina cantonensis scavenges decayed vegetation and algae in nature. OATA advises supplementing aquarium grazing with algae wafers or freshwater-shrimp pellets two or three times a week and allowing at least 30 minutes for feeding.

What temperature and pH do Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp need?

Keep Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp at 17–27°C and pH 6.5–8.0 under OATA’s group guidance, with 4–18°dH general hardness, 3–15°dKH carbonate hardness and zero ammonia and nitrite.

Is it aggressive or likely to nip fins?

This shrimp is planned as a social group, but fish compatibility still needs screening. Avoid fish able to swallow it and species known to be predatory, then observe the aquarium after introduction.

Which animals can this shrimp live with?

Other Crystal Red / Red Bee Shrimp can form the social group where the mature aquarium has enough capacity. For fish, OATA supports a screening rule rather than a universal companion list: avoid fish able to swallow the shrimp and species known to be predatory.

How does it arrive alive?

Film the sealed parcel before opening or floating the bag, with someone present to receive it. Continue filming in one take as the parcel is opened with the shrimp still inside the sealed bag, float the bag for 20–30 minutes, then release the shrimp without pouring the bag water into the aquarium.

Check the identity and husbandry references

• World Register of Marine Species: Caridina cantonensis — accepted identity and family.
• Wikipedia: Caridina cantonensis — distribution, natural feeding and selective breeding context.
• OATA: freshwater shrimp and snails — group husbandry, water, space, feeding, maintenance and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA: aquarium environment — biological filtration and nitrogen processing.