Red Top Hongi Cichlid (Labidochromis sp. 'hongi')

Choose it for a planned Malawi community

The Red Top Hongi Cichlid (Labidochromis sp. 'hongi') is a freshwater cichlid in the family Cichlidae. WoRMS recognises Labidochromis as an accepted genus, while Wikipedia describes the genus as endemic to Lake Malawi in East Africa. This fish suits an moderate-care keeper prepared to manage hard, alkaline water, substantial filtration and the aggression expected in a Malawi cichlid community.

Keep it at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18°dH. OATA’s African Malawi cichlid sheet sets these as group guidance, not a species-specific optimum. It also sets ammonia and nitrite at zero and nitrate at no more than 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.

Use at least 250 litres for this listing’s conservative permanent plan; OATA’s broader group sheet gives 200 litres as a baseline. OATA notes that Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and that small groups will often fight. This is permission to use a carefully managed group, not a reason to add fish without accounting for the adult community, filtration capacity, oxygen demand and territorial behaviour.

Use the African cichlid collection to compare other fish before deciding how the whole aquarium will use the same water, territory and filtration.

Understand the animal and size selected

One purchase supplies one Red Top Hongi Cichlid in the size selected. Use the live size selector to choose 3–4 cm or 4–5 cm. These labels describe the approximate dispatch length of the animal rather than its eventual length. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size.

The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Labidochromis and its care group. Build the permanent aquarium around the needs of a Malawi cichlid community instead of treating either dispatch grade as a long-term space guide.

Plan without assuming sex

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Red Top Hongi Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option. Do not construct a male-to-female plan around colour, markings, the selected length or a gallery image. OATA notes that many Malawi cichlids show sex differences only as adults and advises keeping more females than males where possible, but the animals selected here do not establish that composition.

Read the gallery as a visual guide

Some gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. They show the listed type of animal rather than guaranteeing the exact markings of the individual supplied, so natural colour and pattern can vary.

The scene showing two fish demonstrates appearance and aquarium context; it does not change the individual sale unit. Likewise, plants, wood, substrate and backgrounds visible in the gallery are scene details rather than instructions to duplicate that precise arrangement.

• Purchase unit: one live fish.
• Size labels: 3–4 cm or 4–5 cm.
• Long-term basis: a mature Malawi cichlid aquarium.
• Sex: use only an explicit male or female option as a guarantee.
• Gallery: representative rather than the exact animal supplied.

Plan space for the whole community

Use at least 250 litres for this listing’s conservative permanent plan. OATA’s broader group sheet gives 200 litres as a community baseline rather than a dispatch-size rule. A larger aquarium provides more stable temperature and water quality, but extra volume must still be matched by adequate filtration, aeration and a workable social plan.

Start with the intended mature community: decide which Malawi cichlids may be included, how many fish the filter must support and where retreat routes will remain after the décor is installed. OATA says Malawi cichlids are not social fish and can be highly aggressive. They can be kept in groups of at least 15 and slightly overcrowded to limit aggression, whereas small groups will often fight.

Treat density as a managed technique

Slight overstocking spreads aggression only when the aquarium can process the resulting waste and maintain enough dissolved oxygen. OATA recommends an oversized filter and aggressive aeration for crowded Malawi communities. Never interpret the group figure as permission to exceed the biological capacity of the aquarium or to add all intended fish without checking water quality.

Increase the population slowly. Beneficial bacteria must increase as more fish and food raise the waste load. Adding too many fish too quickly can cause new tank syndrome, allowing ammonia or nitrite to rise to levels that can make fish ill or cause death.

Make these checks before committing

• Use at least 250 litres for this listing’s conservative permanent plan.
• Allow for the waste produced by the complete planned group.
• Provide oversized filtration and strong aeration.
• Leave room for rocks, caves and open swimming areas.
• Keep a practical separation or rehoming plan for persistent aggression.

If this is your first aquarium, follow our guide to preparing and maturing a first tropical tank before introducing livestock.

Hold hard, alkaline water steady

Maintain 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and hard water at 12–18°dH. Carbonate hardness should be hard at 10–15°dKH. These values form one connected water plan: temperature must remain steady, mineral hardness must suit Malawi cichlids and carbonate hardness must support the alkaline pH.

Test the aquarium rather than judging water by clarity. Clear water can still contain ammonia, nitrite or excessive nitrate. Keep ammonia at zero mg per litre, nitrite at zero mg per litre and nitrate no more than 20 mg per litre above the normal level in the tap water.

Use measured results to make decisions

Test replacement water as well as aquarium water. Treat tap water with conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before adding it. When any value needs adjustment, prepare and measure the replacement water so the aquarium is not subjected to a sudden correction.

Our aquarium water chemistry guide explains what the measurements mean. Enter the measured results in the water matcher to compare them with this Malawi guidance.

Filter for waste and oxygen

Run a well-established biological filter at all times. The RSPCA explains that filtration supports beneficial bacteria which convert toxic ammonia into nitrite and then into safer nitrate. A filter must therefore be mature, maintained and able to process the waste from the complete community.

Choose filtration for the planned bioload rather than the length of the newly selected animal. OATA recommends oversized filtration because the crowded conditions sometimes used to manage Malawi cichlid aggression also create more waste. Strong aeration is recommended to maintain dissolved oxygen.

Check the system as a whole

• Biological capacity: keep ammonia and nitrite at zero.
• Mechanical flow: check for blockages that reduce circulation.
• Gas exchange: maintain vigorous aeration and surface movement.
• Waste control: remove solid debris during water changes.
• Population changes: test after adding fish or increasing feeding.

Do not run filter media under the tap. Chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacterial population established in the media. When cleaning is needed, rinse the media lightly in aquarium water removed during a partial water change.

Aeration cannot compensate for a blocked filter or excessive waste. Equally, strong filter flow does not show that ammonia and nitrite are being processed correctly. Use both observation and water tests: reduced flow calls for a blockage check, while non-zero ammonia or nitrite calls for an immediate review of the biological load and filter function.

Add fish slowly enough for the beneficial bacterial population to grow with the increased feeding and waste. This protects both the new fish and the animals already living in the aquarium.

Build cover that tolerates digging

Create a Malawi layout with rocks and caves, while preserving open swimming space and access for maintenance. OATA identifies mbuna as rock-dwelling Malawi cichlids and notes that Malawi cichlids often dig and rearrange the substrate. Place décor securely so ordinary excavation cannot make the arrangement unstable.

Use coral sand or a similar substrate capable of helping to buffer the water. Continue testing pH and hardness because the substrate is part of the system rather than a replacement for measured water management.

Give fish more than one route

Arrange rocks and caves so fish can move around the layout instead of meeting at a single entrance. Visual breaks help create separate areas, while open water allows the keeper to observe swimming, breathing and chasing. Retain enough access to remove debris and check that the filter intake is clear.

Plants are optional. Malawi cichlids will uproot any plants present as they dig, so OATA recommends only the hardiest plants that grow attached to rocks or wood. Do not rely on rooted plants to hold essential décor together or to provide the only cover.

Recheck the arrangement after digging. Restore safety without removing every territorial boundary at routine maintenance, and keep the aquarium accessible enough to intervene if one fish is repeatedly trapped.

Feed to a controlled routine

Feed only what the fish can eat within a few minutes, twice a day. Remove the assumption that all Malawi cichlids require the same food: OATA says their dietary requirements vary between feeding types.

Smaller mbuna are more herbivorous and appreciate specialised Malawi cichlid foods with a high algae content plus fresh vegetables. Some larger utaka are more predatory and require pellets with a higher animal content, with frozen foods such as brine shrimp, prawns or cockles. Match the food to the way the fish is being managed within the Malawi community rather than choosing solely from colour or dispatch size.

Make portion control visible

• Offer a portion the fish finish within a few minutes.
• Feed twice daily rather than leaving food continually in the aquarium.
• Distribute food so more than one part of the group can reach it.
• Watch whether food disappears or settles among rocks and substrate.
• Reduce the next portion if uneaten food remains.

Overfeeding leaves food to break down and release toxic waste. It also increases the work demanded from the filter and pushes nitrate upwards. If ammonia, nitrite or nitrate trends worsen, review both the amount fed and whether every fish is actually eating its share.

Use body condition and feeding response as practical checks. A fish that repeatedly fails to reach food may be under social pressure even when the offered quantity is adequate. A sudden loss of interest in food can also accompany water-quality trouble or a health change, so test the water and observe the group rather than simply adding a different food.

Keep food variety within the appropriate Malawi feeding plan. A varied routine still needs consistent portion limits and must not obscure whether a particular fish is being excluded.

Maintain the aquarium every week

At least once every week, change 25% of the aquarium water. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate, especially where rocks interrupt normal flow. Treat the replacement water with tap-water conditioner before it enters the aquarium.

Test the water at least once per week. Record temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate so gradual changes are easier to see. Hardness and carbonate hardness should also remain within the Malawi ranges, particularly after a change in source water or buffering materials.

Use a repeatable maintenance order

1. Test the aquarium before disturbing it.
2. Prepare conditioned replacement water.
3. Siphon solid waste while removing 25%.
4. Check the filter for reduced flow or blockages.
5. Rinse media lightly in removed aquarium water only when needed.
6. Refill without causing a sharp temperature or chemistry change.
7. Retest when a result or fish behaviour gives cause for concern.

Do not run filter media under the tap. Keep some mature media functioning whenever maintenance is performed so the aquarium retains the bacteria needed to process ammonia and nitrite.

A weekly routine is the starting point rather than permission to ignore changes between maintenance days. Test promptly after heavier feeding, the addition of fish, reduced filter flow, unusual breathing or an unexpected rise in aggression. Correcting waste and oxygen problems early is safer than waiting for the next scheduled water change.

Inspect décor while siphoning. Malawi cichlids dig, so confirm that rocks and caves remain secure and that entrances have not become blocked by moved substrate. Finish by watching the fish swim and feed; this links the test results to their condition and behaviour.

Introduce fish with a stocking plan

Add fish only after confirming that ammonia and nitrite are zero and that temperature, pH and hardness match the Malawi ranges. Increase the population slowly so beneficial bacteria can expand with the additional waste and feeding.

OATA recommends adding Malawi cichlids in groups to reduce the risk of one individual receiving all the aggression as fish settle. Add more peaceful species before more aggressive species. Rearranging aquarium décor can also reduce established territorial aggression because the fish must find new territories.

Separate preparation from release

Before changing the population, confirm that the aquarium remains at least 250 litres for the planned community, the filter can support the added waste, aeration is strong and retreat routes remain usable. Decide in advance where a persistently attacked fish could be moved.

During the first observations, check whether every fish can leave cover, reach food and swim without continuous pursuit. A brief chase and persistent targeting are different management problems: intervene when one animal is continually excluded, damaged or unable to feed.

Do not rely on a presumed sex ratio. OATA recommends more females than males where possible to prevent a male harassing one female, but the selected animals here carry no sex guarantee. Build a plan that remains workable if the eventual composition differs from expectations.

Use a stocking assessment rather than treating the words “Malawi cichlid” as a complete compatibility test. Ask us about the intended community with the aquarium volume, water values, present fish and filtration details ready; those facts make the assessment more useful.

Follow the arrival steps in order

Prepare to receive the parcel in person, then follow the delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy. Fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen and packed in an insulated box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it.

On arrival

1. Receive the parcel in person; live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed and the outer box is visible.
3. Open the parcel in one continuous take and show the fish inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.

The unboxing video is required for a Live Arrival Guarantee claim. Keep the parcel, bag and fish visible in the continuous recording, and contact us the same day with the order number and video if a claim is needed.

After release, observe swimming, balance, breathing and the response of the established community. Test the aquarium if behaviour changes or aggression prevents the new fish from using cover and reaching food. General settling advice does not replace the measured water and social checks already prepared before arrival.

Have a divider or suitable alternative arrangement ready before the parcel arrives. A Malawi cichlid can enter an existing territorial system immediately, so the ability to separate a persistently targeted fish is part of arrival preparation rather than an improvised response after damage occurs.

Respond to health and behaviour changes

Watch swimming, colour, temperament, breathing, appearance, body condition and feeding. OATA highlights hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom, erratic swimming, unusual hiding, changes in aggression, faster or slower gill movement, white spots, fluffy growths, lost fins or scales, weight change and reduced feeding as signs requiring attention.

Check the environment first

• Test ammonia and nitrite; both should be zero.
• Check nitrate against the tap-water baseline.
• Confirm 23–27°C and pH 8.0–8.6.
• Check filter flow, blockages and aeration.
• Observe whether another fish controls food or cover.
• Inspect the body and fins for visible changes.

A darker or paler appearance can accompany a wider change in condition or behaviour, so assess it alongside breathing, appetite, swimming and social pressure. A fish hiding more than usual may be reacting to aggression as well as an environmental problem.

Respond immediately to non-zero ammonia or nitrite by reviewing waste, feeding, recent additions and filter function. Do not add more fish while the biological system is under strain. If one animal is persistently attacked, use the prepared separation plan rather than waiting for the hierarchy to correct itself.

Contact us if the fish’s health remains concerning after the water and social checks. Share measured values and the observed change so the next step can be considered from concrete details rather than colour alone.

Screen companions by Malawi rules

Keep this fish only with other Malawi cichlids or with some species of Synodontis catfish. This is OATA’s companion rule for Malawi cichlids. Avoid fish outside those categories rather than extending the rule to unrelated cichlids or general community fish.

Screen every proposed companion for the same hard, alkaline water, adequate aquarium space and the aggression expected in the planned community. The word “cichlid” alone is not enough: the supported companion category is Malawi cichlids, not cichlids from every region.

Avoid other Labidochromis species

Wikipedia notes that species in Labidochromis can hybridise easily and recommends keeping only one species from the genus in an aquarium. Avoid mixing this unidentified form with another Labidochromis species. This protects the clarity of any offspring and avoids presenting mixed parentage under a species or trade-form name.

No named animal becomes an automatic companion merely by appearing in one of the permitted categories. Check the complete community and retain a way to separate fish if persistent aggression develops.

Manage aggression as a community risk

Expect aggression and manage it actively. OATA describes Malawi cichlids as aggressive fish that should be mixed with caution. Small groups will often fight, while groups of at least 15 can be kept and may be slightly overcrowded to spread aggression.

Density is only one part of the decision. The aquarium must remain large enough, filtered strongly enough and aerated well enough for the whole community. Adding fish to spread aggression also adds waste and oxygen demand, so test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate after population changes.

Use a clear intervention threshold

Observe whether each fish can swim away, use cover and feed. Changes in aggression, increased hiding, damaged fins, altered breathing, weight loss or reduced feeding indicate that the social plan needs attention. Separate a fish when persistent targeting prevents normal movement or feeding.

When adding fish, OATA recommends introducing Malawi cichlids in groups, placing more peaceful species first and more aggressive species later. Rearranging décor may reduce aggression by disrupting existing territories. These measures support a suitable plan but do not make every combination safe.

Account for uncertain sex

Where possible, OATA advises keeping more females than males of each species to reduce harassment of one female. This offer does not provide a sex-guaranteed composition, so the aquarium must remain manageable if the eventual balance differs. Do not assume a selected size, image or colour establishes the ratio.

Keep a divider, another suitable mature aquarium or a rehoming route ready. A contingency is necessary because individual behaviour can change as the community develops, even when the water and stocking method follow the group guidance.

Answer Red Top Hongi Cichlid questions

How big does a Red Top Hongi Cichlid get?

Plan without assigning one species adult length because Red Top Hongi Cichlid is sold under a genus-level identity. Base the permanent aquarium on OATA’s Malawi community guidance rather than the 3–4 cm or 4–5 cm dispatch length.

What size aquarium does a Red Top Hongi Cichlid need?

Use at least 250 litres for this listing’s conservative permanent plan. OATA gives 200 litres as broader group guidance, and the aquarium must also support oversized filtration, strong aeration, rocks, caves and the complete planned population.

How many Red Top Hongi Cichlids should I keep?

OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and that small groups will often fight. Plan the number across the whole Malawi community, not as a guaranteed group of this unidentified form.

Is the Red Top Hongi Cichlid suitable for beginners?

We rate the Red Top Hongi Cichlid as moderate because it needs hard, alkaline water, mature oversized filtration, strong aeration and active aggression management. OATA describes Malawi cichlids as usually easy to keep but also highly aggressive.

What does a Red Top Hongi Cichlid eat?

Feed only what it can eat within a few minutes, twice daily. OATA recommends high-algae Malawi food and vegetables for smaller mbuna, while larger predatory utaka need higher-animal-content pellets and suitable frozen foods, so match the food to the feeding type being managed.

What temperature and pH does this fish need?

Keep it at 23–27°C and pH 8.0–8.6 in hard water at 12–18°dH. OATA gives these as Malawi cichlid group values rather than an optimum for an identified species.

Is it aggressive or likely to nip fins?

It belongs to a group OATA describes as aggressive, and changes in aggression, damaged fins or persistent hiding require action. Use a planned Malawi group, rocks and caves, strong filtration and a ready separation arrangement.

Which animals can it live with?

OATA limits Malawi cichlid companions to other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis catfish. Screen the exact animal for water, space and aggression, and avoid other Labidochromis species because the genus hybridises easily.

How is this fish packed, and what should I do on arrival?

Start filming the sealed parcel before opening it or floating the bag. The fish is bagged in pure oxygen inside an insulated box; open in one continuous take, show it in the sealed bag and float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release.

Check the care references

• WoRMS: Labidochromis — accepted genus and family identity.
• Wikipedia: Labidochromis — Lake Malawi distribution of the genus and hybridisation guidance.
• OATA: How to look after African Malawi cichlids — water, aquarium, feeding, maintenance, behaviour and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA aquarium environment advice — biological filtration and waste processing.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy — packing, unboxing video and acclimatisation procedure.