Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. (Pterophyllum scalare bicolor l.f.)

Choose this tall South American cichlid for a prepared aquarium

The Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. (Pterophyllum scalare) is a freshwater cichlid from the Amazon basin in Brazil, Colombia and Peru, with its wider native distribution extending into French Guiana and Guyana. It reaches 15 cm and suits an intermediate keeper prepared to provide a tall, mature aquarium, deliberate social planning and a response plan for territorial behaviour. FishBase places the species in the family Cichlidae and describes wild adults living in densely vegetated swamps and flooded ground where the water may be clear or silty.

This is not a small community fish despite the graceful body and trailing fins. Plan roughly 200 litres, a 100 × 40 cm footprint and about 50 cm of usable height for an adult pair. Keep the water at 24–27°C, pH 6.5–7.4 and 5–12 dGH. Those routine values are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA guidance. A compatible pair can work, while a deliberately planned group needs more room, visual barriers and a practical separation or rehoming route.

The scientific identity is Pterophyllum scalare, and Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes also accepts that name in Cichlidae. The bi-color and l.f. wording is the aquarium trade name for this form, while its welfare requirements follow the underlying species. FishBase lists the species as Least Concern, but aquarium care still depends on suitable dimensions, stable water and close observation of each fish.

For a fuller explanation of dimensions, social choices and routine care, read our freshwater angelfish care guide.

Understand the fish you receive and what the gallery shows

One purchase supplies one live Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. The fish is sold individually, so a pair or group plan requires the corresponding number of individual fish and enough adult space for the whole social arrangement. A compatible pair is not simply any two angelfish placed together; watch how fish share territory, feeding opportunities and resting areas, and be ready to separate persistent aggressors or excluded individuals.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Angelfish are difficult to sex reliably outside active spawning. Seriously Fish notes that the male’s genital papilla can usually be seen only when spawning and that males are likely to be more aggressive and territorial, especially in breeding condition, but neither appearance nor behaviour should be treated as a guarantee for this offer. Build the social plan around compatibility and adult behaviour rather than an assumed sex.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

The gallery scene shows one orange, silver-white and black marbled angelfish above pale sand and green plants. Use it to understand the tall, laterally compressed shape and extended finnage, not as an exact colour promise for the bi-colour form. The pictured fish has a marbled pattern rather than the bi-colour pattern of this form, so expect the fish supplied to differ in colour pattern from the photograph.

The 15 cm figure is the adult planning length rather than the size of the fish on arrival. Long dorsal and anal fins also create substantial vertical height, so aquarium height matters from the start even when a younger fish appears small. Check the adult plan before adding further fish rather than waiting for the fins or body to approach full size.

You can compare other angelfish forms after deciding whether their shared adult space, water and social requirements fit your aquarium.

Plan around adult length and extended fin height

Plan for an adult length of 15 cm. Seriously Fish records 150 mm standard length and says an aquarium measuring 100 × 40 × 50 cm, roughly 200 litres, should be the smallest considered. Our angelfish care guide uses 15 cm as the practical adult planning length and notes that the extended dorsal and anal fins can make an adult about 20–25 cm tall.

Length and height answer different planning questions. The 15 cm length helps assess horizontal turning room, prey risk and the adult size of companions. The 20–25 cm fin-tip height explains why a shallow aquarium can remain unsuitable even when its nominal volume sounds substantial. Leave clear vertical space above the substrate and below equipment, allowing the fins to extend without repeatedly touching decor.

FishBase also holds a current field maximum of 10.5 cm total length alongside an older 15 cm aquarium reference. Use 15 cm for the adult plan: FishBase lists a 15 cm total-length maximum, Seriously Fish records 150 mm standard length and the store’s care guide adopts 15 cm. Do not use the smaller field observation to reduce aquarium dimensions.

Check usable dimensions, not the label alone

• Length: use about 100 cm as the minimum front dimension in the adult-pair plan.
• Depth: retain about 40 cm front-to-back so adults have turning room and territories are not compressed into one plane.
• Height: provide about 50 cm of usable aquarium height for adult fins.
• Volume: plan roughly 200 litres for an adult pair; a group or community requires more space.

Substrate depth, internal filters, wood and rockwork reduce usable space. Arrange them without taking away the vertical swimming area or narrowing every route through the aquarium. More litres in a long but shallow tank do not replace the height needed by an adult angelfish, while a narrow tall tank does not replace adequate footprint.

Review the plan as the fish grows. Check whether it can turn freely, extend its fins, reach food without conflict and retreat behind visual barriers. If an adult pair begins defending most of the aquarium, reduce social pressure through the separation or rehoming plan rather than expecting the nominal litre figure to prevent aggression.

Hold stable water within the overlapping ranges

Keep the aquarium at 24–27°C, pH 6.5–7.4 and 5–12 dGH. This is the overlap of FishBase and Seriously Fish species ranges with OATA’s American-cichlid group guidance. OATA gives 22–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 4–12 dGH for the broader group; the narrower routine values here remain inside the species ranges as well.

Stability matters more than repeatedly chasing a central number. Measure the aquarium before the fish arrives, then avoid abrupt changes in temperature, pH or hardness. If the aquarium already sits steadily inside the target range, do not alter it merely to reach a particular midpoint.

Use a thermometer and liquid or otherwise suitable aquarium tests rather than relying only on heater settings or assumptions about tap water. Confirm zero detectable ammonia and zero nitrite before adding the fish. OATA advises keeping nitrate no more than 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level, so test the source water as well as the aquarium when interpreting the result.

Make changes from measurements

• Temperature: compare the thermometer reading with 24–27°C and correct equipment gradually where an elective adjustment is needed.
• pH: test before adding buffers, reverse-osmosis water or mineral products; a copied recipe cannot account for the aquarium’s starting chemistry.
• GH: keep general hardness within 5–12 dGH and recheck after changing the mix of source water.
• KH: OATA’s broader guidance gives 3–10 dKH; measure it when investigating pH stability.
• Waste: treat detectable ammonia or nitrite as an urgent water-quality problem rather than waiting for visible symptoms.

Our water chemistry guide explains GH, KH, pH and nitrogen-cycle tests. Once you have measured values, use the water matcher to compare measured aquarium water with stated guidance, keeping to the routine values above where they differ.

Record results consistently enough to recognise movement before the fish changes behaviour. A pH number without GH, KH and source-water context can lead to unnecessary adjustment, while a heater dial without a thermometer can hide an incorrect temperature. Keep replacement water close to the established aquarium conditions and prioritise measured consistency.

Build a tall, structured aquarium with open turning room

Start with a mature aquarium measuring about 100 × 40 × 50 cm and holding roughly 200 litres for an adult pair. A group or community needs more room because the same footprint must support swimming, feeding, retreat and territory. Aquarium dimensions remain part of the decision even when filtration could process the waste from more fish.

Use tall leafy plants, vertical wood or other smooth structure to break long sight lines. Seriously Fish recommends a well-planted aquarium with tall plants and gentle water movement, while FishBase records wild adults among dense aquatic and riverbank vegetation. The natural habitat supports using vertical cover as layout inspiration without requiring one exact plant or substrate.

Divide the aquarium into useful zones

• Vertical cover: place plants or wood so one fish can move out of another’s direct view.
• Open water: preserve a clear area where a 15 cm adult can turn and extend its fins.
• Feeding access: avoid one narrow feeding lane that a territorial fish can control.
• Safe surfaces: keep sharp edges away from trailing fins and secure decor that could shift.
• Maintenance access: leave room to siphon waste and inspect the filter without dismantling every refuge.

OATA advises fine aquarium gravel or sand for American cichlids because many species will dig or sift the substrate when feeding or breeding. Secure rooted plants and decor accordingly. Long fins make snagging and abrasion important considerations, so run a hand over artificial decor and remove pieces with rough points or narrow traps.

Use gentle flow without accepting stagnant water. Direct a strong outlet so the fish can leave the fastest current, while retaining circulation and surface movement for oxygen exchange. Watch whether the angelfish can hold position and feed without continually struggling against the outlet.

Keep a secure lid on the aquarium. Keep heater guards, filter intakes and gaps appropriate for the fish’s body and fins. Layout should make routine inspection easy: you need to see whether every fish is feeding, breathing normally and using more than one part of the aquarium.

If this is your first tropical setup, follow the steps in our first tropical aquarium guide before adding livestock. A calendar age alone does not establish maturity; use ammonia and nitrite tests to confirm that the biological filter is processing waste.

Maintain biological filtration and a measured weekly routine

Run a mature biological filter continuously and choose its output for both waste processing and suitable circulation. The RSPCA explains that biological filtration supports bacteria which convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to the less toxic nitrate. A filter is therefore essential even in a planted aquarium.

For a roughly 200-litre aquarium, Seriously Fish suggests turnover of four to five times the aquarium volume per hour and a filter rated around 800–1000 litres per hour. Treat the rating as a starting point: media loading, pipework and outlet position affect real flow. Arrange the return so circulation reaches the aquarium without forcing the angelfish to fight a harsh current continuously.

Use this maintenance cycle

• At least once a week: test ammonia and nitrite, and monitor nitrate, temperature and the established pH.
• At least once every week: change 25% of the water, using a siphon to remove settled waste where appropriate.
• At each change: condition replacement tap water to remove chlorine or chloramine before adding it.
• At each inspection: check filter flow, intakes and pipework for blockages.
• When media needs cleaning: rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial change; do not rinse it under the tap.

The weekly 25% change is OATA’s starting routine, not a reason to ignore test results. Feeding, fish numbers, plant growth and filter performance all influence waste. If nitrate rises or debris accumulates, respond from the measurements and examine feeding and stocking rather than waiting for cloudy water.

Preserve the bacterial population during maintenance. Do not expose biological media to chlorinated tap water, because chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacteria established in it. A sudden loss of biological filtration can produce ammonia and nitrite even in an established aquarium.

Observe flow as well as the test kit. Reduced outlet movement can indicate a blockage, while gasping or unusually rapid gill movement requires immediate water and equipment checks. Confirm the temperature with a thermometer after maintenance and after any heater adjustment.

Keep a simple record of weekly values and water changes. A sequence of readings is more useful than one isolated nitrate or pH result because it shows whether the aquarium is stable, slowly drifting or changing after feeding and stocking adjustments.

Feed an omnivorous cichlid with a complete staple and variety

Use a nutritionally complete cichlid pellet, granule or suitable flake as the staple, choosing a format the fish can swallow. Seriously Fish describes Pterophyllum scalare as omnivorous and notes that wild fish feed predominantly on zoobenthos such as small crustaceans and other aquatic invertebrates. It accepts dried food in aquaria and relishes live or frozen foods.

Add suitable frozen or freeze-dried variety rather than turning one treat into the whole diet. OATA names daphnia, brine shrimp and bloodworm for smaller American cichlids and advises feeding only what the fish can consume within a few minutes, once a day. Remove uneaten food before it breaks down into waste.

Judge the portion by the fish and the water

• At feeding time: place food where every fish has a realistic chance to reach it.
• Within a few minutes: the portion should be eaten without a layer of excess food falling into the substrate.
• After feeding: check whether one fish guards the food while another hangs back.
• Over time: watch body profile, appetite and water-test trends rather than increasing food because the fish approaches the glass.

Angelfish can take pellets or flakes, so choose between them by particle size, access and how cleanly the group eats. A sinking or slowly descending format may spread access through the water column, but observe the result: the correct food still fails if one dominant fish takes every piece.

The controlled angelfish feeding study by Kasiri, Farahi and Sudagar shows that feed composition can affect growth and reproductive performance. It does not replace the household routine above. Use a complete staple, measured variety and observation rather than copying a single experimental feed as a permanent menu.

Overfeeding adds faeces and uneaten food, increasing the load on the biological filter. If ammonia, nitrite or nitrate trends worsen, review the portion, fish access and maintenance together. Reduced appetite is also a health warning: test the water and inspect the fish instead of disguising the change with repeated treats.

Receive and acclimatise the fish in the correct order

Prepare the aquarium before the parcel arrives. Confirm 24–27°C, zero detectable ammonia, zero nitrite and stable pH and hardness within the target range. Make sure the filter is running and the planned social space is ready; arrival day is not the time to begin cycling the aquarium or rearrange an occupied territory without a plan.

Follow the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy in this order:

1. Receive the parcel in person and start filming before it is opened. Show the still-sealed parcel with the outer box visible.
2. Open it in one continuous take. Keep filming as the parcel is opened and show the fish inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
3. Do all of this on the day the parcel arrives. Retain the continuous video for every delivery, together with the order number.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
5. Release the fish without pouring the bag water into the aquarium.

The policy states that fish are hand-bagged in oxygen and packed in an insulated box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel, and tracking and the confirmed date are sent by email so someone can be present to receive it.

If an arrival problem is visible, message Tropical Fish Co on the same day with the order number and continuous video showing the sealed parcel, opening and fish in the sealed bag. The video lets Tropical Fish Co see the fish’s condition before anything was disturbed.

Keep aquarium checks separate from the parcel-opening sequence. OATA advises confirming zero ammonia and nitrite before introducing fish and increasing the aquarium population slowly so biological filtration can respond to additional feeding and waste. After release, observe swimming, breathing, fin position and whether the angelfish can occupy space without immediate persistent attack.

Do not add more fish merely because the initial water test remains clear. Each addition changes the biological and social load. Let measured water quality and the behaviour of the existing fish determine whether the original aquarium plan still works.

Respond to health changes with immediate water tests

Look for steady swimming, regular breathing, clear eyes, open undamaged fins, intact scales, a consistent body profile and reliable feeding. The RSPCA’s fish health guidance supports watching visible condition and responding to changes promptly.

Warning signs include hanging at the surface, sitting unusually on the bottom, erratic swimming, gasping, rapid or slow gill movement, clamped or damaged fins, white spots, fluffy growths, wounds, unusual balance, marked colour change, hiding more than normal or a sudden loss of appetite. A sign tells you to investigate; it does not identify one disease by itself.

Use a water-quality-first response

1. Test immediately: check ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and temperature, adding pH where a chemistry change may be involved.
2. Compare with the established range: detectable ammonia or nitrite is urgent, while abrupt elective pH, hardness or temperature changes can add stress.
3. Inspect equipment: confirm filter flow, heater operation and surface movement.
4. Document the change: record the signs, timing, recent additions, feeding and test results.
5. Seek qualified help: use a specialist aquatic retailer or fish vet when signs persist, injury is present or the cause remains unclear.

Move an affected fish only when the separate aquarium is mature, suitably heated and likely to reduce rather than increase stress. A bare emergency container without biological filtration can turn a behavioural or injury concern into an ammonia problem.

Use only a lawful treatment labelled for the fish and aquarium system, following its directions or veterinary advice. Avoid a fixed high-temperature recipe or preventive medicine chosen from one symptom. White spots, head lesions, abnormal faeces and appetite changes can have different causes, and treatment choice depends on the diagnosis, water and other inhabitants.

If an angelfish jumps out, return it to suitable aquarium water immediately using wet hands or a wet, soft net, minimise handling and monitor breathing, balance and visible injury. Check and secure the lid. Abnormal recovery, damaged skin or continuing breathing difficulty needs fish-veterinary advice.

Choose a compatible pair or a deliberately planned group

Keep a compatible pair or plan a group of at least 5 with substantially more room. FishBase advises aquarium groups of 5 or more, while OATA says angelfish should be kept as a pair or group at minimum and warns that a fish kept alone may become stressed. Seriously Fish also recommends small groups because individuals may squabble with their own kind.

A compatible pair is a behavioural relationship, not a label that automatically applies to two fish. Two randomly chosen angelfish may compete rather than bond. Watch whether both fish can eat, rest and move through the aquarium without persistent chasing, cornering or fin damage.

Plan the social route before conflict starts

• Adult pair: use roughly 200 litres, a 100 × 40 cm footprint and about 50 cm of usable height as the planning point.
• Group: provide more space, several visual barriers and more than one feeding route.
• Pair formation: expect relationships and territories to change as fish mature.
• Breeding behaviour: prepare for stronger defence around a chosen spawning surface.
• Persistent exclusion: use a mature second aquarium or a realistic rehoming route.

Angelfish may lay eggs on a vertical surface such as slate, a broad leaf or aquarium glass, and parents may guard eggs and fry. Territorial behaviour can therefore intensify even in fish that previously shared the aquarium calmly. Do not wait for serious injury before acting on repeated chasing, blocked feeding or a fish confined to one corner.

A group chosen to allow pair formation is not a permanent promise that every adult will continue sharing the same footprint. More fish also increases waste and feeding competition. Review filtration, territory and access together rather than treating the group number as a complete stocking calculation.

Sex should not be inferred from forehead shape, fin angle or routine behaviour. Compatibility decisions work better when based on observed interaction and usable space. If a pair begins controlling nearly the whole aquarium, separation can be the correct response even when temperature and water tests remain within range.

Screen every companion for adult size, fins and temperament

Choose companions only after comparing adult size, water range, temperament, feeding speed and territory. OATA says calmer American cichlids such as angelfish can be mixed in a robust community aquarium with larger shoaling species, and advises checking with the retailer that the chosen species are compatible. Individual behaviour and the aquarium layout still decide the outcome.

Avoid very small fish that an adult angelfish may swallow, including small tetras. Seriously Fish specifically warns that angelfish may eat small fish such as tetras. Also avoid known fin-nippers, which can damage the extended dorsal, anal and ventral fins, and highly aggressive competitors that can create chronic territorial pressure.

Appropriately robust, larger shoaling fish are the clearest supported community category, provided their water and behaviour fit. This is a conditional category rather than a universal safe list. Fish of the same named kind can behave differently, and an established angelfish pair may defend territory more strongly than unpaired fish.

Avoid very small shrimp and fry, which remain at predation risk. Bottom-dwelling animals also require enough floor area and compatible water; occupying a different level does not remove competition or guarantee safety. Observe the whole aquarium at feeding time and during territory disputes.

Before buying companions, check with a specialist aquatic retailer that the species are compatible, giving the aquarium dimensions, measured water, existing animals and their adult sizes. Be ready to separate fish if persistent pursuit, damaged fins, missed meals or confinement to one area develops after introduction.

Answer common Bi-color Angelfish questions

How big does the Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. get?

It reaches 15 cm. Its extended fins can make an adult about 20–25 cm tall, so plan around both length and height.

What size aquarium does the Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. need?

Plan roughly 200 litres with a 100 × 40 cm footprint and about 50 cm of usable height for an adult pair; Seriously Fish says this should be the smallest aquarium considered.

How many Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. should I keep?

FishBase advises groups of 5 or more, while OATA says angelfish should be kept in a group or a pair at minimum. A group needs more space, visual barriers and a separation or rehoming plan.

Is this angelfish suitable for beginners?

This is an intermediate-care fish suited to a prepared keeper with a mature, tall aquarium, measured water quality and a plan for territorial behaviour.

What does this fish eat?

Feed a complete cichlid pellet, granule or suitable flake as the staple, add suitable frozen or freeze-dried variety, and offer only what it can finish within a few minutes once a day.

What temperature and pH does the Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. need?

Keep it at 24–27°C, pH 6.5–7.4 and 5–12 dGH; these values are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA guidance.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to nip fins?

It is generally peaceful, but as a cichlid some aggression should be expected from time to time: it may squabble with its own kind, and territorial behaviour should be expected during pair formation and breeding. Watch for chasing and damage, and keep known fin-nippers away from its extended fins.

Which animals can it live with?

It may live with appropriately robust, larger shoaling fish whose water and temperament match. Avoid very small fish such as small tetras, known fin-nippers, highly aggressive competitors and much faster-feeding species.

How does the Bi-color Angelfish, l.f. arrive alive in the UK?

Tropical Fish Co hand-bags the fish in oxygen, packs them in an insulated box with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and sends them with a licensed live-animal courier. Receive the parcel in person, start a continuous video while it is sealed, open and inspect it the same day, show the fish in the sealed bag, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing.

Check the public references used for identity and care

• FishBase — Pterophyllum scalare: family, distribution, habitat, environmental range, length and aquarium social note.
• Seriously Fish — Pterophyllum scalare: aquarium dimensions, water, diet, behaviour and breeding guidance.
• OATA — American cichlid care: group water, feeding, maintenance, social and community guidance.
• RSPCA — aquarium environment: biological filtration and nitrogen-cycle welfare.
• RSPCA — fish health and welfare: visible health signs and response principles.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes — Pterophyllum scalare: accepted name and family placement.
• Kasiri, Farahi and Sudagar — angelfish feed types: controlled research on feed composition, growth and reproduction.