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Poecilia reticulata

Poecilia reticulata male mix F1

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Poecilia reticulata male mix F1 is a Male Mix F1 Guppy, a peaceful poeciliid livebearer from Venezuela, Barbados, Trinidad, northern Brazil and the Guyanas that reaches 6 cm. It suits a prepared beginner with a mature aquarium at least 60 cm long and a group of five or more where capacity allows; Tropical Fish Co’s routine is 22–28°C, while OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance gives pH 7.0–8.0. Sold individually as a male fish.

Easy CareEndler guppyFishLive FishPeacefulPoeciliidaeTropical Fish

Care at a Glance

Scientific Name
Poecilia reticulata
Max Adult Size
up to 6 cm
Care Level
Easy
Temperature
22–28°C
pH Range
7–8
Hardness
8–18 dGH
Minimum Tank
41L

Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.

Domestic cobra-green male guppy (Poecilia reticulata) swimming among green aquarium plants
Full Care Guide

Guppy Care Guide: Poecilia reticulata

Guppies are social livebearers suited to a prepared beginner, not a fish-per-litre formula. Use a mature filtered aquarium, tested neutral-to-alkaline mineral-bearing water, deliberate sex and population planning, open swimming room, cover and a separation option.

15 min readRead guide

Water Parameters

Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors

Temperature
22–28°C
22°CIdeal28°C
pH Level
7–8
7Ideal8
Water Hardness
8–18 dGH
8 dGHIdeal18 dGH

Decide whether this male guppy fits your aquarium

The Male Mix F1 Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) is a small, peaceful poeciliid livebearer for a prepared beginner who can provide a mature, filtered community aquarium. FishBase records its native range as Venezuela, Barbados, Trinidad, northern Brazil and the Guyanas. For this male offer, plan around its recorded adult size of 5 cm standard length.

Choose it for tested neutral-to-alkaline, mineral-bearing water, gentle flow and a deliberately planned social group. Our conservative house plan uses an aquarium at least 60 cm long and five or more guppies where the sex plan, filtration, test results and other livestock allow. It is not a fish for an uncycled bowl, a solitary plan or a community containing known fin nippers.

Suits Not suited to
A prepared beginner with a mature, filtered aquarium An uncycled aquarium or unfiltered container
A planned group of five or more where capacity allows Keeping one guppy alone as the complete social plan
An aquarium at least 60 cm long with swimming room and cover A tank chosen by a fish-per-litre calculation alone
22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 8–18 dGH Long-term soft or acidic conditions
A quiet community screened for compatible needs Fin-nipping species such as tiger barbs or serpae tetras

Keep the aquarium at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 8–18 dGH. The complete Guppy Care Guide sets our routine temperature, while OATA’s guppy-and-molly sheet sets the pH and hardness as group guidance, not a species-specific optimum. These values sit within the wider aquarium range described for the species.

Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes also recognises Poecilia reticulata as the accepted name. The familiar name guppy applies to this species; the mix wording describes the offer rather than a different scientific identity.

Understand exactly what one purchase means

This offer is for one live guppy per purchase, not a pair, trio or ready-made group. The social recommendation therefore remains a separate aquarium-planning decision: count the compatible guppies already present and plan any additions around the aquarium’s usable length, filtration, water tests, sex mix and behaviour.

Sex is guaranteed only when the exact product or selected option explicitly states male or female. This Poecilia reticulata male mix F1 listing is sold as male.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

The pictured colour arrangement should not be treated as a promise of identical markings. Guppies occur in many aquarium-bred colour and fin forms, and this mixed offer should be chosen for its species, care requirements and male presentation rather than for an exact copy of one photographed pattern. The F1 wording is retained as part of the named offer without changing the animal’s scientific identity.

Check the plan before purchase

  • Count the social group: use five or more as the conservative house plan where capacity and the sex plan allow.
  • Measure aquarium length: use at least 60 cm for the planned guppy group rather than relying on nominal litres alone.
  • Test the water: confirm 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0, suitable mineral content, zero ammonia and zero nitrite.
  • Screen every companion: exclude fin nippers and compare adult needs before combining social groups.
  • Prepare separation space: persistent pursuit, hiding, missed feeding or fin damage requires intervention.

One male does not by itself complete the recommended group. A male-only group avoids new mixed-sex mating within that group, but males can still display and chase, so observation and a separation option remain important. If females are already present, plan for courtship and possible fry rather than treating the purchase unit as a population-control method.

You can browse the guppy collection when planning a wider group, but select each animal by its stated sex, adult needs and compatibility. A collection page does not create a balanced group automatically.

Plan the aquarium around the adult size

Use a mature, filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long for one small guppy group. FishBase’s aquarium note uses a 60 cm minimum length and a group of five or more, and Tropical Fish Co adopts those figures as its conservative house screen where filtration, sex planning, water tests and other animals allow.

Seriously Fish describes a 45 × 30 cm base and about 41 litres for the species. OATA recommends at least 45 litres for a small group of smaller livebearers. These are useful lower planning references, but our 60 cm length policy gives the group more usable horizontal room and prevents litres alone from deciding the result.

Use length, volume and occupancy together

Check Decision
Less than 60 cm long Do not treat it as a permanent adult-group aquarium under our house plan.
At least 60 cm long Continue checking maturity, filtration, water values, social group and existing animals.
Around 60 litres It may be a candidate if it also meets the 60 cm length and all other checks.
More litres Use the extra stability and room, but do not convert volume into an automatic stocking entitlement.

The adult-size figure for this male offer is 5 cm standard length, as recorded by FishBase for male or unsexed fish. Standard length excludes the tail fin, so ornamental finnage can extend beyond that body measurement. Seriously Fish lists 6 cm standard length for the species; use the male-specific 5 cm figure for this offer while still allowing room for the tail and normal swimming.

Measure the internal length and usable footprint after allowing for equipment and decor. A nominal 60-litre tank that is short, heavily occupied or obstructed may fail the plan, while an appropriately proportioned aquarium still needs established biological filtration and suitable tests.

If this is your first aquarium, follow the steps to prepare and mature a first tropical tank before livestock arrives. Do not use guppies to cycle it. Add fish gradually so the beneficial bacterial population can respond to increased waste and feeding.

Set stable mineral-bearing water

Keep this guppy at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 8–18 dGH. Maintain zero ammonia and zero nitrite, with nitrate no more than 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. Test the aquarium itself rather than relying on the heater dial, room temperature or a general description of local tap water.

The 22–28°C routine comes from Tropical Fish Co’s guppy policy. OATA’s group figures set pH 7.0–8.0 and medium-hard water at 8–18 dGH, and Seriously Fish describes the species as a hard-water fish whose long-term maintenance should be in moderately hard or harder water.

Measure before making a change

  • Temperature: use an independent aquarium thermometer. Fit a thermostatically controlled aquarium heater where the room cannot keep the water within 22–28°C.
  • pH and hardness: test the source water and aquarium water. Regional supplies can differ, and a water company may blend or alter its supply.
  • Ammonia and nitrite: both should read zero before fish are added and throughout normal care.
  • Nitrate: compare the tank result with the tap-water result and keep the increase within OATA’s stated limit.
  • Replacement water: treat tap water with a suitable conditioner before it enters the aquarium.

Use the aquarium water chemistry guide to understand what each test means, then compare measured water with the guppy range. Write down results so gradual drift is visible before behaviour or appetite changes.

Change conditions gradually. A test outside the target is a reason to identify the cause, check the source water and plan a controlled correction; it is not a reason to make a sudden large adjustment. Stable conditions within the range are safer than repeatedly driving the aquarium between opposite edges.

Do not add salt simply because FishBase records the species in both freshwater and brackish environments. Routine salt is not part of this freshwater plan, and any mineral adjustment must have a measured purpose and be compatible with every fish, invertebrate and plant in the aquarium.

Build filtration and maintenance around waste

Run a well-established biological filter continuously and maintain it without destroying its beneficial bacteria. The RSPCA explains that aquarium filtration is vital because fish release toxic ammonia; biological filtration converts ammonia to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate.

A filter does not replace testing or water changes. Its bacteria process waste only while flow, oxygen and suitable conditions support them, and the final nitrate still needs control through maintenance. Increased livestock and feeding increase the load, so add fish gradually rather than assuming an established filter has unlimited capacity.

Follow a repeatable weekly routine

  1. Test ammonia and nitrite at least once a week and confirm both remain at zero.
  2. Check nitrate against the source-water reading and OATA’s limit.
  3. Carry out at least once every week a partial water change of 25%.
  4. Treat replacement tap water with conditioner before adding it.
  5. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the substrate where needed.
  6. Check the filter for reduced flow or blockages.

If filter media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. Do not run it under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill the established bacterial population. Preserve biological function rather than making the media look unused.

Watch the aquarium after maintenance. Normal swimming, regular breathing and continued feeding indicate that the group has tolerated the work. Surface hanging, erratic movement, unusual hiding or faster gill movement should trigger immediate water tests and an inspection of the filter, heater and recent changes.

If you find Do this
Ammonia or nitrite above zero Stop adding livestock, test again, inspect filtration and protect water quality with appropriate conditioned water changes.
Reduced filter flow Check for blockages and clean only as needed in removed aquarium water.
Uneaten food Remove it and reduce the next portion rather than allowing it to decay.
Repeated nitrate rise Review feeding, occupancy, waste removal and the consistency of weekly maintenance.

Do not use a fish-per-litre formula to override these observations. A tank is ready for its planned group only when its dimensions, filter, water tests and maintenance routine work together.

Create open, sheltered swimming space

Provide open horizontal swimming room alongside plants, cover and places where one fish can move out of another’s line of sight. Seriously Fish describes guppies as appreciative of planted aquariums with floating vegetation and advises avoiding strong currents. The layout should support steady swimming without pinning long fins or forcing every fish into the same sheltered corner.

Use live plants where practical. OATA also accepts suitable artificial plants and ornaments as shelter, but long-finned fish need furnishings that will not cause injury. Check every object and intake for points, gaps or suction that could catch fins or endanger smaller fish.

Balance cover with usable space

Layout feature Purpose
Open front or central area Allows normal group swimming and lets you see whether every fish moves and feeds.
Plants and sight breaks Give fish routes away from persistent attention without removing all open water.
Floating vegetation Adds overhead cover appreciated by the species.
Gentle, distributed flow Supports filtration without exhausting or pinning ornamental fins.
Secure cover Keeps the aquarium enclosed while leaving equipment safely arranged.

Observe the result rather than assuming more decor is always better. If one male remains cornered, misses food or cannot leave another fish’s attention, rearrange sight lines or use the prepared separation option. If dense planting blocks normal swimming and conceals persistent chasing, restore open space.

Plan permanently around the 5 cm adult standard length for this male offer. Do not use the apparent size in a gallery image to justify a smaller aquarium. Tail shape and length vary among ornamental guppies, so allow turning room and keep the current gentle enough for the actual fish to hold position without strain.

Cover can also increase fry survival in a mixed-sex aquarium. Treat that as a population-planning consequence rather than a free benefit: more surviving fish increase the demand on space, filtration, feeding and rehoming. Plants support welfare, but they cannot replace a deliberate sex plan or an appropriate aquarium.

Feed a complete diet without fouling the water

Use an appropriately sized, nutritionally complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple. Add safe compatible algal and invertebrate variety, including suitable small live or frozen foods, rather than relying on one treat or one ingredient for the whole diet.

FishBase records wild guppies feeding on zooplankton, small insects and detritus. Seriously Fish describes wild fish as primarily insectivorous while noting that aquarium-bred guppies accept most foods offered. Those feeding habits support a complete aquarium staple with small invertebrate foods as variety.

Set the portion by what the group actually eats

  • Feed only what the fish can consume within a few minutes once a day, following OATA’s guppy-and-molly routine.
  • Choose particles small enough for the fish to take cleanly rather than repeatedly spitting them out.
  • Spread the portion where every fish can reach it and check that quieter individuals are not excluded.
  • Remove uneaten food before it breaks down and contributes toxic waste.
  • Reduce the next portion if food reaches the substrate uneaten or remains after the feeding period.

Daphnia, small bloodworm and tubifex are among the small live or frozen foods named by OATA. Use them as compatible variety within a complete diet, not as the sole routine. Store all foods correctly and use biosecure aquarium products rather than collecting insects or detritus from uncontrolled outdoor sources.

If you see Change
One fish missing every feed Review pursuit, feeding position and particle size; separate safely if exclusion continues.
Food left after a few minutes Remove it and reduce the next measured portion.
Interest in only one treat Return the complete staple to the centre of the routine and keep treats as variety.
Sudden appetite loss Test water immediately and check breathing, swimming, fins and recent changes.

Feeding and filtration are linked. A portion that looks small can still be excessive if it is not eaten, and repeated excess raises the waste load. Judge success by consistent feeding across the group, stable body condition and water tests that remain within the stated limits.

Plan the social group and male behaviour

Plan for five or more guppies where the aquarium’s capacity, filtration, water tests, sex plan and other livestock allow. FishBase uses a group of five or more, while OATA suggests at least three guppies and mollies. Tropical Fish Co uses the more conservative five-or-more policy for a small guppy group.

This purchase contributes one male to that plan. Do not assume a larger order automatically creates a compatible group: each fish still needs space to feed and move away from persistent attention, and the sex composition changes the likelihood of courtship and fry.

Choose the sex plan deliberately

Group plan What to monitor
Male-only New mixed-sex mating is avoided within the group, but display, chasing and fin damage can still occur.
Mixed sex OATA suggests two females to each male; continue monitoring pursuit and prepare for fry.
Existing female group Adding a male introduces new mating opportunities and requires a population plan.
Community group Include every species’ social requirement when judging usable space and feeding access.

Seriously Fish describes the species as very peaceful but also notes vigorous male pursuit of females. Peaceful therefore describes its broad temperament, not permission to ignore repeated chasing. Watch whether every fish can feed, use open water and reach cover without being cornered.

For mature guppies, anal-fin shape is more useful than colour alone when distinguishing sexes. A male has a narrow modified anal fin called a gonopodium; domestic females can also be colourful. This offer’s stated sex should guide the purchase decision rather than trying to judge sex from one representative gallery image.

Guppies are livebearers. Before mixing sexes, decide how young fish would be housed, fed and responsibly rehomed. Dense cover can increase fry survival, and adult predation is not a population-control plan. Do not add another fish to solve pursuit without first checking space, social composition and observed behaviour.

Intervene when behaviour changes

  • Repeated cornering or pursuit: separate safely and reassess the group.
  • Hiding through feeding: change sight lines and confirm the fish can eat.
  • Torn fins or wounds: separate the affected fish safely and investigate the cause.
  • Rapid population growth: stop further mixed-sex additions and use the prepared housing and rehoming plan.

Receive, observe and quarantine carefully

Prepare the mature aquarium and confirm its temperature, pH, hardness, ammonia and nitrite before the parcel arrives. Follow the delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy for the reporting requirements and arrival procedure.

Follow the arrival steps in order

  1. Receive the parcel in person; live fish must not be left unattended.
  2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, with the outer box visible.
  3. Open it in one continuous take and show the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
  4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.

If the fish’s arrival condition causes concern, retain the continuous video and report the issue the same day with the order number. The sealed-parcel opening and the fish inside the sealed bag are required for a Live Arrival Guarantee claim.

After release, look for steady swimming, regular breathing, open undamaged fins, a normal body profile and consistent feeding. RSPCA fish health guidance treats hiding, clamped fins, surface gasping, loss of balance, spots, wounds or a sudden appetite change as warning signs rather than diagnoses.

Respond to warning signs with measurements

  • Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature immediately.
  • Inspect the filter, heater, recent maintenance, feeding and social behaviour.
  • Record the signs and when they began so changes can be compared.
  • Isolate safely where appropriate using an established system with dedicated equipment.
  • Do not choose salt, heat or medication from one symptom alone.

Use a separate, biologically supported quarantine aquarium for new fish. The MSD Veterinary Manual recommends at least 30 days of quarantine, with longer isolation where indicated. Maintain the same suitable water range and test the quarantine system rather than using a small uncycled container.

For diagnosis or treatment in the UK, use the OATA fish-vet directory. Water correction, safe isolation and qualified diagnosis protect the fish better than selecting a treatment from colour change, spots or breathing rate alone.

Screen every community companion

Avoid fin-nipping species, including tiger barbs and serpae tetras. Both Seriously Fish and OATA warn against combining guppies with fish likely to nip their fins. Do not combine them even in a larger or planted aquarium.

A quiet community may include compatible other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and tetras. These are conditional possibilities named by Seriously Fish, not automatic companions. The exact species must pass the water, adult-size, feeding, space and behaviour screen before it is added.

Apply the same six checks every time

  1. Compare temperature, pH and hardness and aim for a stable shared range rather than opposite edges.
  2. Compare adult size and whether either animal could swallow or injure the other.
  3. Exclude known fin nippers and assess territorial, courtship and feeding-competition risks.
  4. Allow for the full social group of each species when judging the usable footprint.
  5. Check that every animal can reach food and refuge without being trapped.
  6. Keep a ready separation plan in case observed behaviour changes.
Screen result Action
Other livebearers with overlapping water and enough room Continue only after checking the exact species and full social group.
Tiger barbs, serpae tetras or other fin-nipping species Avoid combining them with this guppy.
Compatible rasboras in a quiet community Confirm shared water values, space and feeding access before adding them.
An animal able to swallow or injure the guppy Do not combine the animals.
Corydoras or small loricariids with suitable adult needs Check the exact species, aquarium footprint and water range.
Animals that prevent the guppy from feeding or reaching cover Separate them and reassess the community.
Compatible, non-nipping tetras Monitor feeding, fins and use of cover after introduction.

Assess compatibility from adult size, water needs and individual temperament. It describes this guppy’s general temperament, but another animal may still nip its fins, outcompete it at feeding or require incompatible water. Likewise, several individually peaceful species can create an overcrowded aquarium once every social group is counted.

Small shrimp or young invertebrates may be eaten, so adult invertebrates cannot be treated as one universally safe category. Bettas are not a sensible default companion because display, territorial and long-fin interactions vary between individuals. In either case, use a species-level comparison and a separation plan rather than relying on aquarium size alone.

Respond early to pursuit, damage or identity risks

Use observed behaviour to decide whether a screened community continues to work. Normal group movement and occasional display do not justify ignoring a fish that is repeatedly cornered, prevented from feeding or physically damaged. Intervene before weight loss or fin damage becomes established.

Match the sign to an action

What you observe What to do
Persistent pursuit Use the prepared separation option and reassess sex mix, space and sight breaks.
One fish always hiding Confirm it can feed, test water and check whether another fish controls access to open space.
Torn or missing fin tissue Separate safely and identify the nipping or injury risk before recombining animals.
Food taken by faster companions Change feeding placement and reconsider the mix if exclusion continues.
Surface hanging or rapid breathing Test water immediately and inspect filtration and temperature before assuming a social cause.

A male-only guppy group removes new mixed-sex mating within that group, but it does not remove display or chasing. Mixed-sex housing adds courtship and fry to the decision. Neither arrangement guarantees that every individual will coexist without intervention.

Keep documented guppy and Endler lines apart. The formal description of Poecilia wingei establishes Endler’s livebearer as a distinct species, and Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes lists that name as valid. Tropical Fish Co’s guppy guide notes that P. reticulata and P. wingei can hybridise.

Do not represent hybrid descendants as pure examples of either parent species. This identity rule is separate from everyday compatibility: two fish may share suitable water yet still be the wrong combination for maintaining a documented line.

Never release unwanted guppies, fry, aquarium plants, snails, pathogens or aquarium water outdoors or into a pond, surface-water drain or natural waterway. FishBase records introductions far beyond the native range and reports negative to perhaps neutral effects on native fishes. Rehome livestock responsibly and dispose of aquarium water where organisms cannot reach natural watercourses.

Questions buyers ask before choosing this guppy

How big does Poecilia reticulata male mix F1 get?

FishBase records 5 cm standard length for male or unsexed Poecilia reticulata. Standard length excludes the tail, so allow additional room for ornamental finnage.

What size aquarium does Poecilia reticulata male mix F1 need?

Use a mature, filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long under Tropical Fish Co’s conservative policy. OATA gives at least 45 litres for a small group of smaller livebearers, but litres alone do not decide safe capacity.

How many Poecilia reticulata male mix F1 fish should be kept together?

Tropical Fish Co uses five or more guppies where aquarium capacity, filtration, water tests and the sex plan allow. One purchase supplies one male, so count compatible guppies already present when planning the group.

Does Poecilia reticulata male mix F1 suit beginners?

It can suit a prepared beginner, but it needs a mature filtered aquarium, zero ammonia and nitrite, stable mineral-bearing water, a planned social group and a response plan for chasing or illness.

What does Poecilia reticulata male mix F1 eat?

Feed an appropriately sized complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple, with safe compatible algal and small invertebrate variety. OATA advises a once-daily portion eaten within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does the Male Mix F1 Guppy need?

Keep it at 22–28°C under Tropical Fish Co’s routine; OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance gives pH 7.0–8.0 and 8–18 dGH. Maintain zero ammonia and zero nitrite.

Is this fish aggressive or likely to nip fins?

Seriously Fish describes it as very peaceful, but guppies may display and chase. Avoid fin-nipping species, including tiger barbs and serpae tetras, and separate fish if pursuit or damage persists.

Which kinds of animals can it live with?

After species-level screening, a quiet community may include compatible other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and non-nipping tetras. Small shrimp or young invertebrates may be eaten.

How does this fish arrive alive in the UK?

Start filming the sealed parcel before opening it or floating the bag. Receive it in person, record the continuous opening and fish inside the sealed bag, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release.

References

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