Royal Red Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) — Female

A female guppy in royal red

The Royal Red Guppy is a colour-bred form of Poecilia reticulata, the guppy, and this listing sells one female per purchase. Seriously Fish's guppy profile describes the species as a very peaceful fish, and OATA describes most guppies as undemanding aquarium fish that are easy to keep. Kept in a group, in a mature and planted aquarium, a female guppy is a straightforward fish to keep well.

"Royal Red" is the trade name for this colour. Like other strain names, it describes a selected appearance rather than a separate species, so it says nothing on its own about pedigree, health or breeding outcome. As OATA puts it, despite the array of colours available, guppies are only ever one of two species: this one, and Endler's livebearer, Poecilia wingei.

FishBase calls the guppy one of the most popular aquarium fishes, with many standardised varieties, and records its native range as Venezuela, Barbados, Trinidad, northern Brazil and the Guianas. OATA adds that most guppies in the aquarium trade are now captive bred. In the wild the species lives in warm springs, weedy ditches and canals, small streams and densely vegetated water, which is a good guide to what suits it at home: warmth, plants and calm areas.

What you receive

Each purchase supplies one live female guppy, supplied at 3–4 cm. Adult females are the larger sex and can reach up to 6 cm standard length, so a new fish may still have some growing to do. Male guppies and other colours are listed separately in our guppy range.

Sex is guaranteed only when the exact product or selected option explicitly states male or female. This Poecilia ret. female royal red listing is sold as female. Ordering several therefore gives you a group of females.

One point every buyer of female guppies should know: a female can store sperm from an earlier mating for several months, so a female bought on her own can still give birth in your aquarium without a male present. Plan for young fish before you buy rather than after they appear.

Why keepers choose females

Buying females gives you control over how a guppy group is made up. A group of females on its own means no new matings take place in your aquarium. Adding females to a tank that already holds males spreads the males' attention: OATA suggests two females for each male, and Seriously Fish advises several females to each male because males can be quite vigorous in their constant pursuit of females. Either way, the stored-sperm point above still applies, so a female-only group limits young rather than ruling them out.

Female guppies are usually less showy than males. Seriously Fish describes females as larger and plumper and generally duller in colour, although aquarium-bred varieties may show some quite intense colour in the tail, so a royal red female's colour can differ from a male of the same strain.

In the gallery the fish is orange-red from head to tail, with red dorsal and tail fins and a paler, silvery belly, shown among green aquarium plants. Gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. Natural colour, pattern, size and maturity can vary between live animals.

Is a female Royal Red Guppy right for you?

For the species as a whole, including males, other strains and Endler's livebearer, our guppy care guide goes into more depth than one listing can. The sections below focus on keeping this female well: the aquarium, the water, feeding, arrival, health, the chance of young, and the company she keeps.

Planning the aquarium

Length before litres

FishBase's aquarium note gives a minimum aquarium length of 60 cm for guppies kept in groups of five or more, and Tropical Fish Co uses that same 60 cm length as its house guidance for one small guppy group. Seriously Fish works from a smaller base of 45 × 30 cm, about 41 litres, and OATA's combined guppy and molly sheet suggests at least 45 litres for a small group of the smaller livebearers. Treat the smaller figures as floors rather than targets: the right tank depends on how many fish you keep, what else lives with them, the filtration, and whether any young will be raised.

OATA also points out that the more groups of fish you keep, the larger the volume required, so a tank that suits one small group of guppies will not stretch to several species without becoming crowded.

Volume alone can mislead. A tall, narrow tank can hold as many litres as a longer one while offering far less swimming room, so measure the internal length and footprint before deciding how many fish it will take. OATA's general rule still applies: within reason, buy as large an aquarium as you can, because the larger the aquarium, the more stable its temperature and water quality.

Plants, cover and flow

Seriously Fish describes guppies as unfussy, but notes that a planted tank with floating vegetation is appreciated and that strong currents should be avoided. OATA suggests aquarium gravel or sand with live plants to provide cover, or plastic plants and suitable ornaments where live plants are not used, and recommends gentler flow and open swimming space for long-finned fish.

In practice, plant the back and sides, add some floating plants, and keep open water through the middle where the group can swim together. Aim the filter outlet so there are calm areas to rest in. Fit a secure cover, and make sure the filter intake cannot draw in small fish or young.

Filter and heater

A filter is always essential, and the RSPCA's aquarium guidance is plain that no fish should be kept without a well set up and maintained filter. Seriously Fish suggests a filter that turns the water over four to five times an hour; for its 41-litre example that means one rated at roughly 165–205 litres per hour. Scale that up for a longer tank.

For heat, Seriously Fish estimates about 50 W for a tank of that size in a room at around 20 °C. In an ordinary UK home, use a thermostatically controlled heater wherever the room cannot keep the water in range, and check it with an independent aquarium thermometer rather than trusting the heater dial.

Equipment for a small group

• An aquarium at least 60 cm long, with a secure cover.
• A filter sized for four to five turnovers an hour, with an intake small fish and young cannot be drawn into.
• A thermostatic heater and an independent aquarium thermometer.
• Gravel or sand, live plants and some floating plants.
• Test kits for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and hardness.
• Tap water conditioner and a siphon for water changes.

Mature the aquarium first

Guppies are hardy by reputation, but that is not a reason to add them to a new, unfiltered tank. Let the filter mature first: our guide to setting up and maturing a first tropical tank walks through it. Confirm the aquarium is ready with repeated water tests showing zero ammonia and nitrite, rather than by counting weeks.

Water quality for guppies

Target values

The pH, hardness and waste figures come from OATA's care sheet for guppies and mollies, which describes both as usually undemanding of water chemistry. FishBase's own record for the species gives pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–19 dH, so the two sources sit close together.

Wide recorded ranges are not everyday targets

FishBase records guppies at 18–28 °C, and Seriously Fish gives 17–28 °C. Those figures describe the spread of conditions the species is recorded from, not a comfortable everyday setting, and FishBase itself notes that wild guppies need fairly warm temperatures, around 23–24 °C, together with quiet vegetated water. Keep the aquarium steady within 22–28 °C rather than letting it drift towards the cool end of a record.

A hard-water fish

Seriously Fish calls the guppy a hard-water fish: it may manage in soft or acidic conditions, but long-term it should be kept in moderately hard or harder water. That fits the hardness figures above. FishBase also lists brackish water among the species' habitats, but that is no reason to add salt to a freshwater aquarium. Add salt or minerals only with a measured purpose, and only after checking that every animal and plant in the tank can take them.

UK tap water is not one chemistry. It differs between regions and can change when a water company blends sources, so test the water you actually use rather than relying on a general report. Our guide to which water values to test and why explains each reading, and the water parameter matcher compares your results with the targets above.

Keeping conditions steady

Guppies cope with a fairly wide range of water, which is part of why they suit beginners, but that tolerance is not a reason to let conditions swing. Check the temperature every day and test the water weekly. Prepare replacement water so that it is treated with conditioner and matched to the aquarium's temperature before it goes in, and make any change to pH or hardness gradually rather than in one step.

Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate

Fish release ammonia, which is toxic. A working biological filter holds bacteria that convert it to nitrite, which is also toxic, and then to nitrate, which is safer. That is why the targets ask for zero ammonia and zero nitrite, and set nitrate against your own tap water rather than as a fixed figure. Test at least once a week, and change water gradually so that temperature and chemistry do not jump.

Feeding female guppies

A staple food and some variety

FishBase records wild guppies feeding on zooplankton, small insects and detritus, and Seriously Fish describes wild fish as mainly insect-eaters while noting that modern tank-bred guppies are far removed from their ancestors and accept most foods. OATA calls guppies omnivorous and recommends a good-quality flake or granule with a high algae content as their everyday food, with small live or frozen foods such as daphnia or small bloodworm as extras.

Choose flake or granules small enough for a guppy's mouth, and prefer frozen or prepared foods from aquarium suppliers over live food collected outdoors, which is not biosecure.

How much to give

OATA's guidance is to feed guppies only what they can eat within a few minutes, once a day, and to take care not to overfeed, because uneaten food breaks down and releases toxic waste into the water. The portion matters more than the clock. Watch the whole group at feeding time, check that every female gets a share, and siphon out anything left on the bottom.

Feeding in a community tank

In a mixed aquarium, faster or bolder species can take most of the food before the guppies reach it, and shy individuals can miss out altogether. Spread food across the surface, offer some that sinks slowly for fish lower down, and watch each feed for the first few weeks until you know every fish is eating. Keep the total within OATA's few-minutes guide rather than adding extra to make up for competition.

Reading body condition

A gain or loss in body weight is on OATA's list of changes worth noticing. With female livebearers, a fuller belly can also mean a female is carrying young, and a rounded abdomen or a dark area near the vent is not proof either way, so judge condition over several days rather than from a single look. A female that is thin and losing interest in food needs attention, starting with a water test.

Delivery, arrival and quarantine

How your guppy travels

Every order is hand-packed by our team: fish are bagged in pure oxygen and packed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel, and we email the tracking number and your confirmed Thursday or Friday delivery date so you know when to be in. Our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee page sets out the full terms.

Unpacking, step by step

1. Be at the delivery address to take the parcel in person; live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. With the parcel still sealed and the outer box in view, start a short unboxing video. Always record this in one continuous take, because any Live Arrival Guarantee claim needs it.
3. Keep the video running as you open the box, so the fish can be seen inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed. Open and inspect the parcel on the day it arrives.
4. Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 20–30 minutes before releasing, to acclimatise the fish slowly.
5. Release the fish into the tank, but never pour the bag water into your aquarium.

If anything has gone wrong, contact us the same day, by WhatsApp for the fastest reply, with your order number and the unboxing video, and we will arrange a replacement or refund.

Quarantine and introduction

If you already keep fish, a separate quarantine aquarium protects them. The MSD Veterinary Manual recommends isolating new fish for at least 30 days, and longer where needed, in a separate system with its own equipment, biologically mature filtration and regular testing.

OATA's advice on introducing guppies is to check first that ammonia and nitrite are at zero and that the aquarium suits the number of fish you plan to keep, then to increase numbers slowly, because the filter's bacteria have to grow each time fish are added and feeding increases. Stocking too quickly risks 'new tank syndrome', where there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the extra waste and ammonia and nitrite rise to levels that may cause fish to become ill or die.

OATA describes healthy fish as having clear, bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales and no ulcerations or bumps. If condition or behaviour worries you in the first days, test the aquarium and report it promptly rather than assuming it is only the journey.

Routine care and health

Weekly jobs

• At least once every week, carry out a partial water change of 25%, as OATA strongly recommends.
• Use a siphon to lift uneaten food and solid waste from the gravel or sand while you remove water.
• Treat replacement water with a tap water conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine, and match its temperature to the aquarium.
• Test ammonia and nitrite at least once a week so neither can build up unnoticed.
• Check the filter for blockages. When it needs cleaning, rinse the media lightly in the tank water you have just removed; do not run it under the tap, as any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the bacteria that keep the water safe.

OATA stresses that good husbandry is essential, because guppies and mollies can be stressed by even the smallest amounts of ammonia.

Signs of a settled fish

A settled guppy swims steadily, breathes regularly, holds her fins open and undamaged, keeps a normal body shape and feeds consistently. Knowing what normal looks like for your own fish makes the warning signs below easier to spot early.

Warning signs and what to do

Hiding, clamped fins, gasping at the surface, loss of balance, spots, wounds or a sudden change in appetite are warning signs rather than a diagnosis. OATA's own list adds colour turning darker or paler than normal, gill covers moving faster or slower than usual, white spots or fluffy growths, loss of fins or scales, and a change in body weight.

• Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature straight away.
• Check the filter, the heater, recent maintenance, the food, any new arrivals and how the fish are behaving towards one another.
• Write down the signs with dates, or take photographs, so changes can be compared.
• Move an affected fish to a safe, mature isolation tank where appropriate.
• For diagnosis and treatment, use OATA's directory of fish vets; the RSPCA's fish health guidance describes normal and concerning signs.

Do not choose salt, extra heat or a medication on the strength of a single symptom. In the UK, use lawfully labelled products and follow veterinary direction.

Seriously Fish notes that many commercially bred guppies are less hardy than they should be, because of inbreeding and over-production, and are prone to disease. Stable water, sensible quarantine and an uncrowded tank give a new female the best start.

Females, fry and planning ahead

Why a female-only group can still have young

Guppies are livebearers: the female gives birth to live young rather than laying eggs. Research described in our care guide documents sperm storage in female guppies for several months, and Seriously Fish notes that a female may keep producing young for six months or more with no male present. A female that met a male before sale can therefore give birth in your tank, even if you only ever keep females. FishBase records that females mature at around three months of age and males at two.

What to expect if young appear

Seriously Fish describes broods of anywhere from 5 to 100 young after a gestation of four to six weeks, but timing and numbers vary between females and cannot be predicted for any one fish. It also notes that adult fish will eat the young. Dense planting and floating vegetation give newborn fish somewhere to hide, and that cover increases the number that survive.

If you decide to raise young deliberately, they need their own mature, filtered and heated nursery aquarium with regular testing, and food small enough for their mouths. A small, unfiltered container, or confining a female in a cramped space, is not a safe shortcut.

Plan homes, and never release fish outdoors

Before young arrive, decide how you would house them or where they could be responsibly rehomed. FishBase records that guppies have been widely introduced outside their native range, largely for mosquito control, with rare or no effect on mosquitoes and negative to perhaps neutral effects on native fishes. Never release guppies, fry, plants, snails or aquarium water into a pond, drain or natural waterway.

Recognising a female

For mature fish, the anal fin is a more reliable guide than colour. A male's anal fin is modified into a narrow, stick-like gonopodium used in reproduction, while a female's is broader and triangular. Domestic females can be colourful too, so do not judge a guppy's sex by colour.

Group planning and tank mates

Building the group

Guppies are social fish. FishBase's aquarium note recommends groups of five or more, which matches Tropical Fish Co's house guidance. OATA gives three as the minimum, at two females to each male where the sexes are mixed. Because each purchase here is one female, choose the number of fish for your tank and order them together.

If you add a male, watch for a female being chased, cornered or kept from food, and have a separate tank ready if the pressure does not ease.

Adding her to an existing group

If you already keep guppies, quarantine the new female first, then add her once your tests show zero ammonia and nitrite. OATA notes that more guppies can be kept together as long as they are added in the right ratio of females to males, and that numbers should rise slowly so the filter can keep pace. Over the following days, check that she is eating, swimming openly and not being singled out. A female that hides persistently, loses condition or shows fin damage needs separating while you work out the cause.

Choosing companions

Seriously Fish says guppies do well in a quiet community tank with other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and tetras, but warns against fin-nipping species such as tiger barbs and serpae tetras. OATA likewise says guppies should not be kept with any species that might nip their fins, such as barbs. No species name guarantees a good match, so check each possible companion against a few points:

• Its temperature, pH and hardness needs overlap well with the targets for guppies, not just at the edge of each range.
• Its adult size, and whether either fish could swallow or injure the other.
• Its temperament: fin-nipping, territorial behaviour or fast, competitive feeding.
• Whether the aquarium's footprint still suits both groups once every fish is full-grown.
• Whether every fish can reach food and a quiet refuge.
• Whether you have a separation plan if behaviour changes.

Two combinations need particular care. Small shrimp, and any guppy young, may be eaten, so a shrimp colony is not automatically safe with adult guppies. A betta is not a sensible default partner either, because display, territorial behaviour and long-fin interactions vary from fish to fish.

Peaceful is not the same as trouble-free

Guppies are described as peaceful, but that label does not mean every group settles without friction. Research cited in our care guide shows that harassment by males can change where females spend their time in a tank, and females can still compete with one another at feeding time. Repeated pursuit, cornering, persistent hiding or fin damage are signs that the plan needs to change, whether that means more space, more plants and floating cover, a different balance of males and females, or moving a fish to another tank.

Guppies and Endler's livebearers

Endler's livebearer, Poecilia wingei, was formally described as a separate species and is listed as valid in Eschmeyer's Catalog of Fishes. Laboratory work shows that the two species can hybridise. Keep them in separate tanks unless you are prepared for hybrid young, and never pass hybrid offspring on as a pure example of either species.

Royal Red Guppy questions

How big does a female Royal Red Guppy get?

Females are the larger sex. Seriously Fish gives an adult standard length of up to 6 cm, measured without the tail, and FishBase records females at 5 cm standard length.

What size aquarium does a Royal Red Guppy need?

A mature, filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long for one small group. FishBase's aquarium note gives a 60 cm minimum length, and Tropical Fish Co uses the same figure; OATA's 45 litres for a small group of the smaller livebearers is a floor rather than a target.

How many Royal Red Guppy females should be kept together?

Keep a group. FishBase recommends groups of five or more, which is also our house guidance, and OATA gives three as the minimum. A group of females avoids new matings in your tank, although a female can still have young from an earlier mating.

Is the Royal Red Guppy suitable for beginners?

Yes, for a prepared beginner. OATA describes most guppies as undemanding and easy to keep, but they still need a mature, filtered and heated aquarium with zero ammonia and nitrite, a planned group and a plan for any young.

What does a Royal Red Guppy eat?

OATA recommends a good-quality flake or granule with a high algae content, with small live or frozen foods such as daphnia or small bloodworm as extras. Feed only what the fish eat within a few minutes, once a day, and avoid overfeeding.

What temperature and pH do guppies need?

Keep the aquarium at 22–28 °C, with pH 7.0–8.0 and general hardness of 8–18 °dH. The pH and hardness figures are OATA's broad guidance for guppies and mollies, and FishBase's species values are close to them.

Is the Royal Red Guppy aggressive, and does it nip fins?

No. Seriously Fish describes the guppy as a very peaceful fish. The risk runs the other way: OATA says guppies should not be kept with species that might nip their fins, such as barbs.

What fish can live with a Royal Red Guppy?

Small, peaceful fish that share the same water conditions. Seriously Fish lists other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and tetras for a quiet community, but check each species first: avoid fin-nippers such as tiger barbs and serpae tetras, and remember that small shrimp and guppy young may be eaten.

How does a Royal Red Guppy arrive alive in the UK?

Fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen and packed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, then carried by a licensed live-animal courier on your confirmed Thursday or Friday. Someone must be in to receive the parcel. Record a continuous unboxing video from the sealed parcel onwards, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.

References

• FishBase: Poecilia reticulata, for native range, habitat, wild diet, water values, maturity, adult length, the aquarium note and conservation status.
• Seriously Fish: Poecilia reticulata, for tank base, water, filtration, heating, diet, behaviour, sexing and reproduction.
• OATA: How to look after guppies and mollies, for water, aquarium, feeding, maintenance, introduction and compatibility guidance.
• Eschmeyer's Catalog of Fishes: Poecilia reticulata, for the accepted scientific name.
• RSPCA: fish environment, for filtration and the nitrogen cycle.
• RSPCA: fish health and welfare, for normal and concerning signs.
• MSD Veterinary Manual: management of aquarium fish, for quarantine of new fish.
• OATA: find a fish vet, for qualified diagnosis and treatment in the UK.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee page, for packing, courier, delivery days, arrival steps and claims.