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Cynotilapia afra

Afra Chimate Cichlid (Cynotilapia afra)

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The Afra Chimate Cichlid (Cynotilapia afra) is a Lake Malawi mbuna from the lake’s central and northern areas that reaches 10.1 cm. It suits keepers planning a territorial Malawi community; keep 25–27°C, pH 8.0–8.5 and 15–18 dGH, with OATA’s Malawi guidance allowing groups of at least 15. Sold individually in sizes from 2–3 cm to XL.

African CichlidCichlidFreshwater FishLake MalawiMalawi CichlidModerate CareTerritorial

Care at a Glance

Scientific Name
Cynotilapia afra
Max Adult Size
up to 10.1 cm
Care Level
Intermediate
Temperature
25–27°C
pH Range
8–8.5
Hardness
15–18 dGH
Minimum Tank
90L

Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size above for the actual shipping size. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.

Source-labelled Bolivian ram swimming above aquarium gravel
Full Care Guide

Cichlids: Types, Care & Tank Planning

Cichlids are a family of roughly 1,800 accepted species, not one care type. Before buying, identify the exact species and source, then compare adult measurement, usable tank dimensions, social system, territory, tested water, diet and an exit plan. No family-wide minimum tank, water range or tank-mate list is safe.

14 min readRead guide

Water Parameters

Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors

Temperature
25–27°C
25°CIdeal27°C
pH Level
8–8.5
8Ideal8.5
Water Hardness
15–18 dGH
15 dGHIdeal18 dGH

Choose this territorial Lake Malawi mbuna for a planned community

The Afra Chimate Cichlid (Cynotilapia afra) is a freshwater cichlid and mbuna indigenous to the central and northern parts of Lake Malawi. It reaches a recorded maximum of 10.1 cm standard length and suits an intermediate keeper who is prepared to manage hard alkaline water, rock territories and assertive behaviour. This is not a calm, mixed tropical community fish.

FishBase places the species in the cichlid family and records it in the upper part of Lake Malawi’s largely sediment-free rocky habitat. Territorial males feed from biocover near their home rocks, while more gregarious fish also feed on plankton. That combination of rocky habitat, territorial behaviour and active feeding is the basis for an aquarium built around rockwork, open passages and careful stocking.

Keep the aquarium at 25–27°C, pH 8.0–8.5 and 15–18 dGH. These routine values are the overlap of FishBase’s recorded environmental range, the Seriously Fish aquarium range and OATA’s Malawi-cichlid guidance. OATA’s figures are group guidance, not a species-specific optimum. Hold the values steadily and keep ammonia and nitrite at zero rather than trying to use the edges of several ranges.

Seriously Fish gives a base of at least 100 × 30 cm and a volume of about 90 litres for this species. For a reasonable Malawi community, OATA recommends at least 200 litres because the larger water volume is more stable and gives more scope for territories. Use the 200-litre community figure when planning the group arrangements described below; do not treat the smaller species profile as permission to crowd an unsuitable footprint.

Suits Not suited to
An established hard, alkaline Malawi aquarium A soft-water or neutral community plan
Rockwork with caves and open swimming passages A heavily planted layout that must remain undisturbed
A keeper prepared to manage territorial aggression Peace-loving fish such as Peacocks or Utaka
A carefully planned mbuna community A small, lightly screened group in which one fish receives repeated aggression

Understand the fish and size you are choosing

One purchase supplies one Afra Chimate Cichlid in the size selected on the live size selector. The labels are “2 - 3 cm”, “4 - 5 cm”, “5 - 6 cm”, “6 - 7 cm” and “XL”. These are dispatch grades rather than different adult forms. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Plan the permanent aquarium for a fish that can reach 10.1 cm standard length and for the full Malawi community around it.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Afra Chimate Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option. Do not build a fixed male-to-female plan around colour or dispatch size. Seriously Fish reports that males are much more colourful than females, while OATA notes that many Malawi cichlids show reliable differences only as adults; neither point turns a visual impression into a guarantee for this offer.

Some gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. They show the listed type of animal rather than guaranteeing the exact markings of the individual supplied, so natural colour and pattern can vary. Cynotilapia afra occurs in multiple natural colour forms and can change colour rapidly when stressed or disturbed. Use the scientific identity, adult dimensions and care requirements to make the decision rather than expecting every individual to match one image frame.

Check the permanent plan before choosing a dispatch grade

  • Start with adult space: reserve the required footprint, caves and open passages before the fish arrives.
  • Check the community: every proposed companion must fit hard alkaline Malawi water and tolerate assertive mbuna behaviour.
  • Plan around unknown sex: the selector does not promise a male or female, so leave room to adjust the group if harassment develops.
  • Use the live selector for dispatch size: the label describes the fish sent, while the same adult care plan applies to every grade.

Seriously Fish describes this as one of the hardier mbuna and a good choice for a newcomer to these fish. That means a prepared newcomer to Malawi cichlids, not an effortless first community fish. The specialist water values, territorial stocking decisions and need for close observation support an intermediate store care level.

Plan the aquarium around adult size and community space

Plan for an adult maximum of 10.1 cm standard length. Standard length excludes the tail, so assess space through the usable aquarium footprint and territory layout rather than assuming the fish’s visual end-to-end length will be the same as that figure. Seriously Fish rounds the species to 10 cm standard length; the 10.1 cm FishBase maximum is the planning figure used throughout this page.

Use a base of at least 100 × 30 cm and about 90 litres as the species profile’s starting point. A reasonable multi-fish Malawi community should instead be planned around OATA’s recommendation of at least 200 litres. The larger plan gives more room for separate rock territories, open passages and the slightly crowded community structure used to distribute aggression. Aquarium shape matters: a tall volume with a restricted base does not create the same territory area as a long footprint.

Apply the two space figures correctly

Planning decision Use this guide
Species footprint At least 100 × 30 cm, about 90 litres
Reasonable Malawi community At least 200 litres
Young dispatch fish Use the permanent adult and community plan from the start
Territory capacity Judge the base, rock layout and open routes together

Before adding fish, map where caves will sit, where fish can pass between rock piles and which areas remain open. If nearly all floor space becomes one continuous rock face, dominant fish may control long routes. If the aquarium lacks enough rockwork, subordinate fish lose places to move away from confrontation. The aim is a series of usable shelters and passages, not the maximum possible weight of stone.

Do not use the 90-litre figure as a shortcut for a full Malawi community. It is tied to the species profile’s stated footprint and volume, while the 200-litre recommendation addresses a reasonable community. Stocking density, sex balance and companion choice still need individual assessment within that larger plan.

Build rock territories with open passages between them

Arrange much of the aquarium as stable piles of rock with caves, leaving small areas of open water between them. Seriously Fish recommends this structure for Cynotilapia afra, and FishBase connects the wild fish with the upper rocky biotope of Lake Malawi. The layout gives territorial fish distinct sites while preserving routes through the aquarium.

Use a sandy substrate. Expect digging and rearrangement: Seriously Fish says this species tends to uproot plants, while OATA says Malawi cichlids will often dig and rearrange the substrate, which will uproot plants. If plants are part of the layout, use only robust choices that can tolerate disturbance and do not rely on rooted planting as the main source of shelter. Rocks and caves must carry that role.

Make the structure safe and usable

  • Stabilise rocks: build the structure so digging beneath an edge cannot make it shift onto a fish.
  • Create several caves: one central shelter can become a single territory controlled by the strongest fish.
  • Leave open water: gaps between rock piles let fish feed, pass and move away from pressure.
  • Keep the filter path clear: décor must not block the intake, outlet or circulation around waste-prone areas.
  • Expect change: check the structure after digging and restore safe passages if substrate has been moved.

Coral sand or a similar buffering substrate is recommended by OATA for Malawi aquariums. Treat buffering as support for an already tested water plan, not as a substitute for measuring pH and hardness. The target remains 25–27°C, pH 8.0–8.5 and 15–18 dGH as the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA guidance.

If aggression rises after fish have established fixed areas, OATA advises rearranging the décor so the fish must find new territories. Make that change deliberately: preserve stable caves and safe rock placement while altering the boundaries that one fish is controlling. Continue observing afterwards because a layout change can redistribute aggression rather than end it.

Hold hard alkaline water steady within the overlap

Keep the aquarium at 25–27°C, pH 8.0–8.5 and 15–18 dGH. This is the overlap of FishBase’s recorded Lake Malawi values, the Seriously Fish aquarium range and OATA’s Malawi guidance. Aim for stable readings within that overlap rather than moving repeatedly between the limits.

Test the source water and the aquarium before choosing this fish. Our water chemistry guide explains what the main measurements mean, while the water matcher lets you compare measured values with this care range. A water plan begins with actual test results; “hard water” as a general description is not precise enough to confirm 15–18 dGH or pH 8.0–8.5.

Use a simple decision sequence

  1. Measure aquarium temperature, pH and general hardness.
  2. Confirm that all three sit inside 25–27°C, pH 8.0–8.5 and 15–18 dGH.
  3. Test ammonia and nitrite and proceed only when both are zero.
  4. Record the readings so a later change is visible rather than guessed.
  5. Check prospective companions against the same water values before adding them.

OATA sets ammonia at zero mg per litre and nitrite at zero mg per litre. It advises that nitrate should not exceed 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level. That nitrate wording matters: compare the aquarium with the normal tap-water baseline instead of treating 20 mg per litre as an absolute aquarium reading.

If pH, temperature or hardness drifts, correct the cause in a controlled way. Check replacement water, heater operation, buffering material, maintenance timing and test accuracy before making repeated adjustments. Sudden swings can add stress to an already territorial community. Stability also makes behaviour easier to interpret: a fish hiding after a water change calls for water checks before its behaviour is treated purely as a social dispute.

Mature and size the filter for the biological load

Use a well-established biological filter and keep it running continuously. The RSPCA explains that fish release toxic ammonia, which filter bacteria convert first to toxic nitrite and then to safer nitrate. A filter is therefore part of the life-support system, not simply a device for making the water look clear.

At about 90 litres, Seriously Fish advises a turnover of four to five times the aquarium volume per hour and gives a filter rating of 360–450 litres per hour. OATA recommends an oversized filter and strong aeration for crowded Malawi communities because more fish and more feeding produce a greater waste and oxygen demand. For a community larger than the 90-litre example, select equipment for the real aquarium volume and expected livestock load rather than reusing the example’s filter rating.

Confirm readiness before adding fish

  • Ammonia: zero mg per litre.
  • Nitrite: zero mg per litre.
  • Circulation: water must move through the filter without blocked intakes or outlets.
  • Aeration: provide enough surface movement and oxygenation for a crowded Malawi setup.
  • Capacity: allow for the adult community and its feeding load, not only the first fish added.

Prepare and mature the aquarium before livestock arrives; our first tropical aquarium guide sets out that process. Add fish gradually because the beneficial bacterial population must increase when the number of fish and amount of food rise. OATA warns that stocking too quickly can cause new tank syndrome, with ammonia and nitrite reaching harmful levels.

Watch flow as the rock structure and fish change the aquarium. A nominal filter rating cannot compensate for an intake blocked by moved sand, waste trapped behind rocks or media overdue for inspection. Check blockages during routine maintenance and investigate any reduction in outlet flow promptly.

Keep a weekly maintenance routine that protects filter bacteria

At least once every week, make a partial water change of 25%. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from accessible substrate while leaving stable rock structures secure.

Treat replacement tap water with a conditioner that removes chlorine or chloramine before adding it to the aquarium. Match replacement water closely to the aquarium’s working temperature and chemistry so maintenance does not create a sharp change. Test ammonia and nitrite at least weekly and keep both at zero.

Clean without stripping the biological filter

  1. Remove aquarium water during the partial change.
  2. Check the filter and pipework for blockages or reduced flow.
  3. If filter media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in the removed aquarium water.
  4. Do not run it under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill the established beneficial bacteria.
  5. Restore circulation and confirm that the outlet is working normally.

Track nitrate against the normal tap-water reading and keep it from exceeding that baseline by more than 20 mg per litre. If nitrate rises faster than expected, check feeding quantity, waste trapped around rocks, the number of fish, filter performance and whether weekly water changes are being completed consistently.

Use behaviour as an early warning alongside the tests. OATA highlights surface hanging, bottom sitting, erratic swimming, unusual hiding, changed aggression, faster or slower gill movement, darkening or paling, damaged fins or scales, white spots, fluffy growths, body-condition changes and reduced feeding. If any of these appears, test water quality immediately and contact us for health guidance.

Keep a short maintenance log with the date, water readings, amount changed, filter observations and any behavioural change. A sequence of readings reveals drift that a single result can hide and helps distinguish a water-quality problem from a territorial dispute.

Feed a vegetable-led mbuna diet in controlled portions

Make vegetable matter a large proportion of the diet. Seriously Fish recommends spirulina flakes, blanched spinach and a quality dried product with an algae-based food, supplemented with live and frozen foods. This fits a mbuna feeding plan while retaining variety.

FishBase records two feeding patterns in Lake Malawi: territorial males mainly take biocover from rocks close to their home area, while more gregarious fish feed on plankton. In the aquarium, use the species profile’s vegetable-led menu as the staple and the live or frozen foods as supplements rather than allowing richer additions to displace the core diet.

Use the OATA portion and schedule

  • Feed twice a day.
  • Offer only what the fish can eat within a few minutes.
  • Remove or reduce food if portions remain uneaten.
  • Use variety within the vegetable-led plan rather than increasing portion size.
  • Watch every fish feed so exclusion or loss of appetite is noticed early.

Uneaten food breaks down and adds toxic waste to the water. If ammonia, nitrite or nitrate begins to rise, review portions before adding more filtration or changing foods. A portion that disappears eventually can still be too large if fragments settle behind rocks and decay.

Territorial behaviour can affect access to food. Spread appropriate portions so one fish cannot hold the only feeding point, then confirm that subordinate fish eat without being chased continuously. Do not solve exclusion by pouring in excess food; that raises the waste load without ensuring the intended fish receives a suitable share.

A change in appetite deserves a same-day water test. Compare it with breathing, colour, swimming, body condition and aggression. If several fish refuse food together, investigate water quality and filter performance before treating the issue as individual preference. Resume controlled portions only when uneaten food will not remain in the aquarium.

Follow the arrival and introduction sequence in order

Prepare the mature aquarium, test ammonia and nitrite at zero and confirm the working temperature, pH and hardness before the parcel arrives. Someone must be present to receive live fish, and the parcel must be opened and inspected on the day it arrives.

Use the Tropical Fish Co arrival procedure

  1. Receive the parcel in person; live fish cannot be left unattended.
  2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed with the outer box visible, then open it in one continuous take and show the fish still inside the sealed bag.
  3. Inspect the fish on the day of arrival while keeping the continuous video for any Live Arrival Guarantee claim.
  4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
  5. Do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Keep your order number and video if a claim is needed, then contact us the same day. Read the current delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy before arrival for the full conditions.

Introduce it to the Malawi community carefully

OATA advises adding Malawi cichlids in groups so one newly introduced fish does not receive all the aggression. Add more peaceful species before more aggressive species and increase the aquarium population slowly so the biological filter can adjust to greater waste and feeding. Rearranging décor can reduce established territorial control when a new group is introduced.

During the first day, check breathing, swimming, colour, hiding and interactions without repeatedly disturbing the rockwork. Test water if the fish hangs at the surface, sits on the bottom, swims erratically or breathes unusually. These signs can accompany water-quality trouble as well as stress.

Over the first week, confirm that the fish eats its share, can use more than one route through the layout and is not trapped in a single corner or cave. Record any repeated chasing or fin damage. A brief encounter is different from one fish being persistently excluded from food, shelter or open water; persistent pressure requires a stocking or layout decision.

Screen every companion before mixing species

Avoid peace-loving species such as Peacocks or Utaka. Seriously Fish gives that restriction for Cynotilapia afra and describes the fish as belligerent and territorial. Do not move either group into a caution category or treat a larger aquarium as permission to ignore the restriction.

Other mbuna can be considered because Seriously Fish says this species can be combined with them. OATA also limits Malawi companions to other Malawi cichlids or some species of Synodontis catfish that naturally inhabit Lake Malawi. These are categories for assessment, not universal tank-mate promises.

Check four points before adding a companion

Check Decision rule
Water The animal must suit 25–27°C, pH 8.0–8.5 and 15–18 dGH.
Temperament Exclude peace-loving fish and assess whether the proposed animal can live with territorial mbuna.
Space Allow an adult footprint, caves and routes that are not controlled by one fish.
Introduction Add Malawi cichlids in groups and introduce more aggressive species later.

Compatibility remains dependent on the actual aquarium dimensions, rock arrangement, adult stocking plan and behaviour of the individuals. If a proposed companion is outside the named mbuna or Lake Malawi Synodontis categories, do not improvise from appearance or a broad “African cichlid” label. Contact us with the aquarium dimensions, measured water values and complete livestock list for a stocking assessment.

Browse the African cichlid collection to compare identities and care requirements, then apply the screening process to each candidate. A shared collection category does not by itself establish compatibility.

Manage territorial aggression as a community decision

Expect territorial and aggressive behaviour. Seriously Fish describes Cynotilapia afra as very aggressive towards its own species and advises several females per male to reduce harassment. It also notes that other species can help dissipate aggression. Because sex is not guaranteed for this offer, observe the developing group and retain the space and flexibility to change it.

OATA says Malawi cichlids can be kept in groups of at least 15 and slightly overcrowded to limit aggression, while small groups will often fight. This is permission for a planned Malawi community, not a rule that every aquarium must contain that number. Use the group figure with OATA’s at-least-200-litre community recommendation, oversized filtration and strong aeration.

Respond to what you see

  • One fish controls the food: distribute suitable portions and review territories rather than overfeeding.
  • One fish remains hidden: check water first, then look for repeated chasing or blocked routes.
  • A newcomer receives all the pressure: reassess the introduction group and rearrange décor to reset territories.
  • Fins or scales become damaged: test water and intervene in the social plan rather than waiting for the fish to adapt.
  • Aggression changes suddenly: compare the change with water readings, feeding access and recent layout or stocking changes.

More fish only help when the aquarium can support their oxygen demand, waste production and adult territory needs. Slight crowding is paired with adequate volume, oversized filtration, strong aeration and disciplined maintenance. It is not a reason to exceed the capacity of the aquarium or biological filter.

Do not mix natural colour forms of Cynotilapia afra. Seriously Fish warns that the forms may spawn with one another and produce unwanted hybrid fry. This restriction applies regardless of whether breeding is intended because the fish can interbreed when housed together.

Answer common Afra Chimate questions

How big does an Afra Chimate Cichlid get?

It reaches a recorded maximum of 10.1 cm standard length. Plan its aquarium, rock territories and companions around that adult figure rather than the dispatch size.

What size aquarium does it need?

Use a base of at least 100 × 30 cm and about 90 litres for the species profile. For a reasonable Malawi community, OATA recommends at least 200 litres to provide greater stability and more room for territories.

How many Afra Chimate Cichlids should I keep?

OATA’s Malawi guidance says these fish can be kept in groups of at least 15 and slightly overcrowded to limit aggression. Seriously Fish advises several females per male for this species, so plan sex balance only after the fish can be assessed reliably.

Is this fish suitable for a beginner?

Seriously Fish describes it as a hardy mbuna and a good choice for a newcomer to these fish. Its specialist hard water and territorial stocking needs make it an intermediate choice rather than a calm first community fish.

What does an Afra Chimate Cichlid eat?

Feed a vegetable-led diet based on spirulina flakes, blanched spinach, a quality dried food and an algae-based food, with live and frozen foods as supplements. Feed only what it can eat within a few minutes, twice a day.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 25–27°C, pH 8.0–8.5 and 15–18 dGH. These values are the overlap of FishBase’s environmental range, Seriously Fish aquarium guidance and OATA’s Malawi guidance.

Is an Afra Chimate Cichlid aggressive or likely to damage fins?

It is aggressive and territorial, including towards its own species. Watch for persistent chasing, exclusion from food or shelter and damaged fins, then test the water and revise the group or rock layout promptly.

Which animals can it live with?

Other mbuna and some species of Synodontis catfish that naturally inhabit Lake Malawi can be assessed after matching water, adult space and aggression. Avoid peace-loving species such as Peacocks or Utaka.

How does an Afra Chimate Cichlid arrive alive?

Start filming before opening the sealed parcel, keep the outer box visible and show the fish inside the sealed bag in one continuous take. Receive it in person, inspect it that day and float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release.

Check the public references used for identity and care

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  • 4 out of 5Verified buyer

    I have a small group of long finned mountain minnows. So was delighted to be able to order ten of this variety to increase the genetics in my tank . The ones I recieved are healthy but it’s to early to give a verdict on wether they are of a long finned type since they are small currently.

    Gordon Walker · 23 Sept 2026

  • 5 out of 5Verified buyer

    100% success travel and "installation". Pleased with quality of purchase. The Siamese fighter a bit "shy" so have not yet seen him at his best yet but looking good. Happy customer. GG

    George E Garratt · 21 Sept 2026

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