Longfin Panda Cory (Hoplisoma panda)

Plan the aquarium around the adult size

The Longfin Panda Cory (Hoplisoma panda) is a peaceful, bottom-dwelling callichthyid catfish from the upper Amazon River basin in South America. Plan for an adult standard length of 5 cm and keep it with at least five companions of the same species. It suits a mature freshwater community aquarium whose keeper can maintain stable water, feed the bottom-dwelling group deliberately and prevent larger or aggressive fish from disturbing it.

FishBase lists Hoplisoma panda in the family Callichthyidae and records freshwater, demersal habits, facultative air-breathing and a maximum of 3.8 cm standard length. Seriously Fish gives 5 cm standard length for aquarium planning, so 5 cm is the adult figure used throughout this guide. Keep the routine aquarium at 22–25°C, pH 6.0–7.4 and 1–12 dGH.

Choose a dispatch size without confusing it with growth

One purchase supplies one Longfin Panda Cory. Use the live size selector to choose 2.5 cm, 3–4 cm or 4–5 cm, then choose the purchase quantity needed for the group you are building. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Use the 5 cm standard-length figure when planning permanent space, water quality and compatible companions.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Longfin Panda Cory listing has no sex-guaranteed option. Plan a social group rather than buying fish in the hope of receiving a particular sex, and do not use dispatch size or a photograph to infer whether an individual will be male or female.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal. Two fish may be visible in an image, but the purchase unit remains one animal. Use the written identity and care requirements when deciding whether this long-finned trade form fits your aquarium.

Build the group around floor space

Keep at least six Longfin Panda Corys together. The Seriously Fish Panda Cory profile describes the species as far more confident and active with its own kind and gives six as the best minimum group. Because each purchase supplies one fish, count the Panda Corys already in the aquarium and choose enough individuals to reach or maintain that group.

Use an aquarium measuring at least 45 × 30 cm across the base for a small group. A 45 × 30 × 30 cm aquarium is about 41 litres, but footprint remains the decisive measurement because these catfish live and feed near the bottom. A taller aquarium with fewer litres spread across the base does not create the same foraging room. Choose more floor area when adding other bottom-dwelling fish or when several species must feed in the same zone.

Check the plan before adding fish

• Group: reserve room for at least six of the same species.
• Base: start with a 45 × 30 cm footprint and increase it for a larger community.
• Water: make sure every resident fits 22–25°C and pH 6.0–7.4.
• Feeding: leave open places where sinking food can reach the whole group.
• Temperament: exclude anything very large or aggressive.

A larger aquarium normally gives more room for retreats, feeding stations and gradual stocking. If you are comparing other social bottom dwellers, browse our corydoras collection and assess each species on its own adult needs.

Keep water inside the species range

Keep the aquarium at 22–25°C, pH 6.0–7.4 and 1–12 dGH. Seriously Fish gives these routine aquarium values for Panda Corys. FishBase records a wider natural environmental range of 20–25°C, pH 6.0–8.0 and 2–25 dH, but the narrower aquarium values are the practical targets for ongoing care.

OATA’s freshwater-catfish sheet gives 22–27°C, pH 6.0–8.0 and 4–18 dGH for the group. Those group-level figures help explain the wider range seen among catfish, while the Panda Cory values set the limits here. In particular, do not use the OATA maximum of 27°C to extend this fish’s routine range: Seriously Fish warns against keeping Panda Corys above 25°C over the long term.

Use measurements, not guesswork

• Test temperature, pH and general hardness before choosing companions.
• Keep the heater setting within 22–25°C and check the result with a thermometer.
• A pH of 7.2 and hardness of 8 dGH already sit inside the stated range; stability is preferable to unnecessary adjustment.
• If a measured value sits outside the range, correct the aquarium gradually before adding the fish.
• Retest after water changes or any deliberate change to source water.

Our water chemistry guide explains what each test measures. Enter your readings in the water matcher to compare them with the 22–25°C, pH 6.0–7.4 and 1–12 dGH targets.

Do not chase one exact pH within the range. A stable aquarium at pH 6.8 does not need to be moved towards 7.0, and a stable aquarium at pH 7.2 does not need to be moved down. The decision is whether the measured water remains inside the full care range and whether every planned resident shares it.

Mature the filter before adding the group

Use a fully established biological filter and keep ammonia and nitrite at zero mg/l. The RSPCA explains biological filtration as the process in which beneficial bacteria convert toxic ammonia into nitrite and then into the safer nitrate. A filter must be running, established and maintained before it can manage the waste produced by a new group of fish.

If this is your first aquarium, follow our first tropical tank guide to prepare and mature it before livestock arrives. Adding six fish to an immature filter does not create an instant social aquarium; it creates a sudden waste load before the bacterial population is ready. Plan the group and the filter together.

Set an appropriate turnover

Seriously Fish suggests four to five times the aquarium volume per hour. For the 41-litre reference aquarium, that is about 165–205 litres per hour. Treat the manufacturer’s flow figure as a starting point, because filter media, pipework and accumulated debris can reduce actual movement. Arrange the outlet so water circulates without forcing the fish to remain in a strong jet.

Follow a weekly maintenance rhythm

• Test ammonia and nitrite at least once a week and keep both at zero mg/l.
• Keep nitrate from rising more than 20 mg/l above the normal level in the tap water.
• Change about 25% of the water at least weekly.
• Treat replacement tap water with conditioner before it enters the aquarium.
• Siphon solid waste from exposed bottom areas during the water change.
• Check the filter for reduced flow or blockage.
• Rinse dirty filter media lightly in removed aquarium water, not under the tap.

Increase stocking gradually even when test results are good. OATA explains that additional fish and food require the filter’s bacterial population to increase. Testing after each addition shows whether ammonia and nitrite remain at zero rather than leaving the filter’s response to chance.

Create open feeding ground and sheltered edges

Cover the bottom with aquarium sand and leave generous open areas for foraging. Seriously Fish describes river sand, driftwood branches, twisted roots and dried leaves as a suitable Amazon-style arrangement for Panda Corys. The same profile also says they do well in a more standard aquarium, preferably with plants, so a planted community layout is a sound alternative.

Divide the floor into useful zones

Keep decorations stable and preserve enough open bottom for all six fish to feed at once. An attractive layout can still fail functionally if wood, pots and dense planting occupy almost the whole footprint. Look down through the water and identify at least two clear feeding areas before introducing the group.

For a blackwater-style display, dried beech or oak leaves can be used with wood and roots. Replace old leaves every few weeks before they rot and foul the water. Wood and leaves may tint the water like weak tea, which is part of that layout rather than a substitute for filtration or water changes. Fairly dim lighting suits this arrangement.

Plants are optional for an Amazon-style interpretation but useful as cover in a conventional community aquarium. Choose the layout that you can clean consistently. During each water change, move the siphon across exposed feeding areas and check for food trapped beside wood, stones or plant bases.

Review the layout after the first month

Watch where the group rests and where every fish finds food. If one feeding point creates crowding, open a second patch rather than increasing the ration. If waste repeatedly collects behind one object, adjust the layout or circulation so maintenance can reach that area. These small changes preserve the floor space that the 45 × 30 cm minimum footprint is intended to provide.

Feed the whole group with sinking foods

Use a good-quality sinking pellet or tablet as the staple food. Seriously Fish describes Panda Corys as omnivorous and recommends supplementing the staple with live or frozen foods such as Daphnia, Artemia and bloodworm. Choose pieces the fish can take comfortably and vary the supplementary food rather than relying on one item every day.

Feed once a day and offer only what the fish can consume within a few minutes. This schedule comes from OATA’s freshwater-catfish guidance and controls the amount rather than changing the species-appropriate menu. Remove food that remains after the group has had a fair chance to eat, because decaying leftovers add waste that the filter must process.

Make sure food reaches every fish

1. Watch the midwater fish during the first part of feeding and note how much food they intercept.
2. Place the sinking ration in two open bottom areas if one fish or one group dominates the first spot.
3. Observe all six Corys rather than judging the meal by the fastest feeder.
4. Check that each fish shows normal interest and can remain at the food without harassment.
5. Reduce the next ration if food persists after several minutes.

These catfish need their own ration even when other fish drop fragments onto the bottom. Uneaten scraps are unpredictable in quantity and nutritional balance. Dedicated pellets or tablets make it possible to judge whether the group has eaten and to remove a persistent excess.

Adjust the method, not the total by guesswork

If fast fish consume the ration before it sinks, change where you place the food or divide it between feeding points. If one Cory repeatedly misses out, confirm that it can move normally, that companions are not excluding it and that the food is small enough to take. Do not automatically add a large extra portion, because the excess can remain hidden around wood or plants.

Live and frozen Daphnia, Artemia or bloodworm add variety but do not replace the dependable staple. Keep the same once-daily portion rule and include every food offered when judging what the group can finish within a few minutes.

Prepare the aquarium before arrival

Complete the aquarium plan before the fish travels. Confirm a group of at least six, a base of at least 45 × 30 cm, water at 22–25°C and pH 6.0–7.4, and ammonia and nitrite at zero mg/l. Make sure someone can receive the parcel because live fish must not be left unattended.

Our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy explains the packing, arrival and claim conditions. Fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen, protected by an insulated poly box and given a heat pack when the weather calls for one. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel, with tracking and the confirmed delivery date sent by email.

Follow the arrival sequence

1. Receive the parcel in person and follow the policy’s unboxing requirements.
2. Keep the fish inside the sealed bag while it floats in the aquarium for 20–30 minutes.
3. After floating, release the fish without pouring the transport water into the aquarium.
4. Keep a continuous unboxing video for every delivery.

Float the sealed bag for 20–30 minutes before release. The aquarium should already be ready, tested and correctly heated so the fish can move into suitable water after the bag has floated.

Manage the first week by observation

OATA’s general introduction advice is to increase the aquarium population slowly because additional fish and feeding increase the load on the biological filter. Test ammonia and nitrite after adding the group and keep both at zero. Continue the established feeding plan rather than adding large portions to encourage shy fish.

Count the group during feeding and check that every fish maintains normal posture, moves with the others and reaches sinking food. A fish that rests briefly on the bottom is not assessed in isolation; compare it with its usual swimming, breathing, colour and feeding behaviour. The aim is to notice a change early enough to test the water and protect the whole aquarium.

During the first water change, confirm that waste is not collecting around feeding points and that the filter flow remains steady. Keep the routine predictable: stable water, deliberate feeding and weekly maintenance are more useful than repeated changes made simply because the fish are new.

Respond to changes before they become severe

Know the group’s normal behaviour so a change is easy to recognise. OATA advises watching swimming, colour, temperament, breathing, body condition, external appearance and interest in food. Compare each fish with its own usual pattern and with the rest of the group rather than treating one brief movement as a diagnosis.

Use each sign to trigger a practical check

FishBase identifies Hoplisoma panda as a facultative air-breather. Interpret a trip to the surface alongside the fish’s breathing rate, posture, frequency of surfacing and the aquarium’s test results. Repeated unusual surfacing combined with rapid breathing or loss of balance calls for an immediate check of temperature, ammonia, nitrite and filtration.

If a change persists, test the water first and write down the readings. Correct measurable husbandry problems without making several uncontrolled changes at once. Contact us about health changes with the temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate results, a description of the behaviour and when it began.

Do not choose a treatment from one symptom alone. White marks, fin damage, hiding and poor appetite can have different causes, while medication can add another variable to an aquarium whose water quality has not been checked. Keep observation factual, protect stable filtration and isolate only when a suitable separate setup and a clear reason make that the safer course.

Choose peaceful companions that share the water range

Longfin Panda Corys are very peaceful community fish. Seriously Fish names small characins, cyprinids, anabantoids, dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish as suitable kinds of companion. Each choice remains conditional on adult size, temperament, water requirements, feeding access and the floor space left for the Cory group.

Avoid anything very large or aggressive. This is the direct exclusion in the Panda Cory profile and is more dependable than assuming that every fish carrying a broad community label will behave appropriately. A companion that repeatedly drives Corys away from food, confines them to one corner or damages fins fails the compatibility test even if the species is often described as peaceful.

Apply five checks to every proposed companion

1. Water: it must live long term at 22–25°C, pH 6.0–7.4 and 1–12 dGH.
2. Adult size: it must not become very large relative to a 5 cm Cory.
3. Temperament: it must not be aggressive towards bottom-dwelling fish.
4. Space: it must leave enough base area for at least six Corys to forage.
5. Food: it must not prevent sinking pellets or tablets from reaching the group.

Dwarf cichlids need particular planning because their use of the lower aquarium can overlap with Cory feeding and shelter. Provide adequate floor area and watch behaviour rather than relying on the category name alone. Other peaceful catfish also add demand to the bottom zone, so enlarge the footprint and separate feeding points when combining groups.

No fixed list predicts every individual interaction. Monitor the actual aquarium and keep a separation plan for repeated chasing, exclusion from food or fin damage. For a stocking assessment, contact us with the aquarium dimensions, measured water values, established fish and the proposed adult group sizes.

Work through the complete stocking plan

Start the stocking plan with six Longfin Panda Corys, then account for every other fish at its adult size. Do not count a different catfish species as a substitute for the Panda Cory group. The social requirement is for its own kind, while other bottom dwellers create additional demand for space, shelter and food.

Compare common planning situations

Use observed feeding as a compatibility measure. If all the food is intercepted above the bottom, place the Cory ration in more than one clear area. If another fish repeatedly guards those areas, the issue is not solved by adding more food; change the stocking or layout so the Corys can eat without harassment.

Seriously Fish notes that Panda Corys may consume bite-sized items such as eggs or fry even though aggression towards other species is virtually unheard of. Do not place them in a breeding setup where every egg or fry must remain untouched. This feeding response is separate from aggression towards adult companions.

Compatibility with invertebrates depends on the chosen animal’s size, behaviour, water needs and vulnerability during moulting. Screen that proposed combination individually rather than treating shrimp, snails or other invertebrates as one interchangeable category.

Reassess after growth or a layout change. A community that works while all fish are small can become crowded when adult bodies occupy more of the same space. The permanent plan must still preserve a group of at least six Corys, the 22–25°C range and open access to sinking food.

Answer the main Longfin Panda Cory questions

How big does a Longfin Panda Cory get?

A Longfin Panda Cory reaches 5 cm standard length. Use that adult figure for aquarium planning rather than the dispatch size selected at purchase.

What size aquarium does a Longfin Panda Cory need?

Use an aquarium measuring at least 45 × 30 cm across the base; a 45 × 30 × 30 cm aquarium is about 41 litres and is adequate for a small group.

How many Longfin Panda Corys should I keep?

Keep at least six together. They are more confident and active with their own kind, so do not plan to keep one or two as a token bottom-dwelling addition.

Is a Longfin Panda Cory suitable for a beginner?

It suits a keeper who can mature the filter first, maintain ammonia and nitrite at zero, keep a group of at least six and make sure sinking food reaches every fish.

What does a Longfin Panda Cory eat?

Use a good-quality sinking pellet or tablet as the staple, with live or frozen Daphnia, Artemia or bloodworm for variety. Feed once daily and limit the portion to what is eaten within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does this fish need?

Keep it at 22–25°C, pH 6.0–7.4 and 1–12 dGH. Avoid keeping it above 25°C over the long term.

Is it aggressive or likely to nip fins?

It is very peaceful, and aggression towards other species is virtually unheard of. Avoid very large or aggressive companions and separate any fish if repeated chasing or fin damage occurs.

Which fish can it live with?

Suitable kinds can include small characins, cyprinids, anabantoids, dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish when adult size, water, floor space and feeding access all match.

How does it arrive alive in the UK?

Before opening the parcel, film every delivery continuously from the sealed parcel onward. It is hand-bagged in pure oxygen, protected in an insulated poly box with a heat pack when weather calls for one, and carried by a licensed live-animal courier. Be home to receive it, float the sealed bag for 20–30 minutes and release the fish without pouring bag water into the aquarium.

References used for identity and care

• FishBase: Hoplisoma panda — scientific identity, family, distribution, environmental range, adult length and air-breathing biology.
• Seriously Fish: Panda Cory profile — aquarium dimensions, adult size, water values, group size, diet, layout and compatibility.
• OATA: freshwater catfish — feeding schedule, testing, maintenance, introduction and general catfish guidance.
• RSPCA: aquarium environment — biological filtration and nitrogen-waste processing.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy — packing, receipt, acclimatisation and claim procedure.