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Astatotilapia latifasciata

Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid (Astatotilapia latifasciata)

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The Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid (Astatotilapia latifasciata) is an East African cichlid from Lake Kyoga that reaches 12.5 cm. It suits intermediate keepers who can provide around 108 litres with a 120 × 30 cm base and keep 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.2 and 12–15 dGH, the overlap of Seriously Fish and OATA guidance. Sold individually in dispatch sizes from 4–5 cm to 7–9 cm.

Care at a Glance

Scientific Name
Astatotilapia latifasciata
Max Adult Size
up to 12.5 cm
Care Level
Intermediate
Temperature
23–27°C
pH Range
8–8.2
Hardness
12–15 dGH
Minimum Tank
108L

Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size above for the actual shipping size. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.

Source-labelled Bolivian ram swimming above aquarium gravel
Full Care Guide

Cichlids: Types, Care & Tank Planning

Cichlids are a family of roughly 1,800 accepted species, not one care type. Before buying, identify the exact species and source, then compare adult measurement, usable tank dimensions, social system, territory, tested water, diet and an exit plan. No family-wide minimum tank, water range or tank-mate list is safe.

14 min readRead guide

Water Parameters

Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors

Temperature
23–27°C
23°CIdeal27°C
pH Level
8–8.2
8Ideal8.2
Water Hardness
12–15 dGH
12 dGHIdeal15 dGH

Choose it for a structured African cichlid aquarium

The Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid (Astatotilapia latifasciata) is a freshwater member of the cichlid family from Lake Kyoga in East Africa. FishBase records a maximum length of 11 cm. This is an intermediate choice for a keeper prepared to manage hard, alkaline water, territorial behaviour and carefully screened companions rather than a passive general community.

FishBase now lists it as Haplochromis latifasciatus. Zebra Obliquidens remains its familiar aquarium trade name, while the scientific label used here remains Astatotilapia latifasciata. The wild species is recorded from Lake Kyoga and assessed as Critically Endangered; that status does not identify the origin of an individual offered through the aquarium trade.

Keep it at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.2 and 12–15 dGH. This is the overlap between the Seriously Fish species profile and OATA’s Malawi-cichlid group guidance, with the OATA values used to narrow rather than widen the species range; they are not a species-specific optimum. Plan for a base measuring 120 × 30 cm and a volume around 108 litres.

Suits Not suited to
Intermediate cichlid keepers A passive, unscreened community plan
A 120 × 30 cm base around 108 litres An aquarium unable to hold the stated footprint
Hard, alkaline water within the stated range Soft or acidic conditions outside that range
Rockwork, caves and open swimming water A layout with no territorial structure
Carefully screened, similarly sized companions Related Victorian Mbipi and other related species

Plan the aquarium around the adult size

Use 11 cm as the adult planning length. That FishBase maximum is the figure used throughout this page and in the care details. Seriously Fish separately lists 125 mm standard length; this is a genuine difference between the published figures, so the aquarium should be selected from the stated footprint rather than by trying to turn either measurement into a promise for one individual.

Seriously Fish recommends a 120 × 30 cm aquarium base with a volume around 108 litres. The footprint matters because the layout must hold rock piles, caves and open water at the same time. A tall aquarium with less floor area does not reproduce that recommended base simply because its litre capacity is similar.

Check the footprint before the volume

  • Length: provide 120 cm along the front so the fish can use open water between structured areas.
  • Front-to-back space: provide 30 cm for rockwork, caves and passages without filling the whole swimming area.
  • Volume: use around 108 litres as the species-profile aquarium size, while retaining the full recommended base.
  • Adult plan: arrange the aquarium for an 11 cm cichlid from the beginning rather than treating a dispatch measurement as its final size.

Adding more fish changes the social pressure and the amount of waste entering the filter. Reassess the whole stocking plan before adding a group or companions; the aquarium dimensions are a starting requirement for this species, not permission to fill every remaining space.

Understand the animal and size supplied

One purchase supplies one Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid in the size selected. The live size selector may show the labels 4–5 cm, 5–6 cm and 7–9 cm; use the selector on the product page to choose the dispatch size. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size.

A dispatch size describes the fish when prepared for the order. Continue to plan for the recorded 11 cm adult length, the 120 × 30 cm base and the full care requirements regardless of which dispatch size is chosen. Do not use a larger dispatch measurement as a substitute for checking compatibility, and do not treat a smaller measurement as permission to begin with a reduced aquarium.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Use the identity and care requirements on this page when comparing the fish with the wider African cichlid collection. Similar trade categories do not make two fish automatic companions: compare adult size, named compatibility guidance, water requirements and territorial behaviour before forming a mixed aquarium.

Mature the aquarium before introduction

Put this fish into a mature aquarium with a working biological filter. The RSPCA explains that fish release toxic ammonia, which a biological filter processes first into nitrite and then into the safer nitrate. Both ammonia and nitrite remain toxic, so a filter must be established and maintained rather than merely switched on when the fish arrives.

OATA advises checking that ammonia and nitrite are both zero before adding fish. Add livestock gradually because the beneficial bacterial population must grow as waste and feeding increase. Adding too many fish too quickly can leave the filter unable to process the extra waste, producing unhealthy ammonia or nitrite concentrations that can make fish ill or kill them.

Complete the readiness check

  • Filter: confirm that it is operating continuously and that water is moving through established biological media.
  • Ammonia: test for zero mg per litre before the introduction.
  • Nitrite: test for zero mg per litre before the introduction.
  • Temperature: stabilise the aquarium within 23–27°C before the parcel is opened.
  • Water chemistry: establish pH 8.0–8.2 and 12–15 dGH rather than trying to alter them around a newly introduced fish.
  • Layout: complete the rockwork and confirm that every rock is secure before water movement or fish can disturb the surrounding sand.

If this is your first aquarium, follow the steps in our guide to preparing and maturing a first tropical tank before choosing an arrival date. Maturation is demonstrated by water testing and biological function, not by the aquarium simply containing water for a particular number of days.

Build caves without losing open swimming water

Arrange much of the aquarium with piles of rocks that create caves, but leave areas of open water between them. This combination gives the fish structured areas while preserving room to swim. Secure every pile independently; the recommended sandy substrate should sit around stable structures rather than being relied upon to hold heavy rocks in place.

A sandy substrate is the preferred base in the Seriously Fish profile. The species is not described as damaging vegetation, so plants may be included, but they are not essential. Driftwood may also be used where it does not take away the required footprint, obstruct open water or destabilise the rockwork.

Choose each feature for a purpose

Feature Use it to
Rock piles Create caves and separate structured areas
Open water Preserve swimming space between rocks
Sand Provide the preferred substrate
Plants Add optional cover without replacing caves
Driftwood Add optional structure while retaining open space

If plants are wanted, the profile names hard-water-tolerant Anubias and Vallisneria, along with floating varieties such as water hyacinth. Match any plant to the hard, alkaline conditions required by the fish. Do not redesign the water chemistry around a plant that prefers a conflicting range.

Look across the aquarium from both ends before adding the fish. A useful layout has more than one cave entrance, clear passages around the rocks and uninterrupted open water. If one pile fills nearly the entire 30 cm front-to-back measurement, reduce or reposition it so the recommended footprint remains usable rather than becoming a nominal measurement around solid décor.

Hold the overlapping water range steadily

Keep the aquarium at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.2 and 12–15 dGH. Seriously Fish lists 23–28°C, pH 7.2–8.2 and 8–15 dGH for the species. OATA lists 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.6 and 12–18 dGH for Malawi cichlids. The working values are the overlap of those two ranges, so none sits outside the species profile.

Measure the aquarium instead of assuming that tap water, substrate or décor has produced the intended chemistry. Our water chemistry guide explains the values to test, while the water matcher can compare measured results with this care range.

Act on the measurement you obtain

  • Below 23°C: correct the heating arrangement and confirm stability before introducing the fish.
  • Above 27°C: bring the aquarium back inside the working range without making an abrupt change around the fish.
  • Below pH 8.0 or above 8.2: review the source water and aquarium plan rather than repeatedly chasing the reading with sudden adjustments.
  • Below 12 dGH or above 15 dGH: prepare replacement water consistently so routine changes do not cause repeated swings.
  • Ammonia or nitrite detected: treat the result as a filtration and water-quality problem rather than a normal feature of a new fish settling in.

Consistency matters because every water change exposes the fish to the replacement water. Test the source water as well as the aquarium when readings move unexpectedly. That comparison helps distinguish a change entering with the tap water from one developing inside the tank.

Size the filter and maintain its bacteria

Use effective filtration with a turnover suited to the species-profile aquarium. For a tank around 108 litres, Seriously Fish recommends four to five times the aquarium volume each hour and a filter rated at approximately 430–540 litres per hour. Treat the manufacturer’s rating as the selection figure, then check the filter regularly for blockages that reduce practical flow.

For the same aquarium size, the profile estimates roughly 100–175 W of heating when the room is around 20°C. Choose and operate the heater to hold 23–27°C, and confirm the result with a thermometer rather than relying on wattage alone.

Follow the weekly maintenance sequence

  1. At least once every week, carry out a partial water change of 25%.
  2. Use a siphon to remove accumulated solid waste from the substrate where required.
  3. Treat replacement tap water with conditioner to remove harmful chlorine or chloramine before it enters the aquarium.
  4. Test ammonia and nitrite at least once per week and keep both at zero mg per litre.
  5. Keep nitrate from exceeding 20 mg per litre above the normal tap-water level.
  6. Check the filter for restricted flow or blockages.
  7. If cleaning is required, rinse the media lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial change.
  8. Do not run filter media under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill the beneficial bacteria established in it.

This sequence protects water quality and the biological filter at the same time. Replacing all filter media together would discard much of the bacterial population that processes waste. Clean only as required for flow and preserve established media wherever practical.

Record the test results before and after maintenance during the first month. A rising ammonia or nitrite result calls for immediate attention to the filter and stocking load. A nitrate trend shows whether the weekly 25% change is keeping accumulated waste within OATA’s stated limit relative to the tap water.

Make live and frozen foods the bulk of the diet

Use suitable live and frozen varieties for the bulk of the Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid’s diet. Seriously Fish reports that the species accepts most foods offered but specifically places live and frozen varieties at the centre of the feeding plan. Rotate appropriate foods within those categories rather than relying on one item at every meal.

For portion size and frequency, OATA’s Malawi-cichlid guidance says to feed twice a day and offer only what the fish can eat within a few minutes. This schedule is group guidance rather than a separate claim about the species’ natural diet. The species profile decides the main food type; the OATA advice sets a practical portion and frequency.

Use the fish and the water as checks

  • Food remains after a few minutes: reduce the next portion and remove uneaten material where practical.
  • One fish controls every feeding point: distribute the portion so each group member can be observed eating without increasing the total beyond what is consumed promptly.
  • Interest in food falls: test the water and compare the behaviour with the fish’s normal response before offering more.
  • Body condition increases or decreases: review portion size and feeding response rather than automatically adding a third meal.

Overfeeding leaves food to break down and release waste into the water. That increases the demand on the biological filter and can contribute to ammonia, nitrite or nitrate problems. A clean feeding response is therefore both a nutrition decision and a water-quality safeguard.

Watch every fish during feeding because the species can become territorial when spawning. The aim is not to use extra food to distract aggression; it is to confirm that each animal can reach an appropriate portion while the social and layout decisions are handled separately.

Follow the arrival sequence before release

Prepare the mature aquarium, stable water and final rock layout before the parcel arrives. Once it is received, follow the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy in this order:

  1. Be at the delivery address to receive the parcel in person; live fish cannot be left unattended.
  2. Start filming before the parcel is opened, showing the parcel still sealed with the outer box visible.
  3. Open the parcel in one continuous take.
  4. Show the fish still inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
  5. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
  6. Release the fish without pouring the bag water into the aquarium.

The fish is hand-bagged in pure oxygen and placed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel. These packing measures do not replace the need for someone to receive it and begin the arrival process promptly.

Keep the first checks factual

Assess the fish while it remains in the sealed bag as the policy requires. The uninterrupted video should retain the sealed parcel, opening and fish-in-bag condition in one sequence. After the 20–30 minute float, release the fish into the already prepared aquarium and keep the bag water out of the tank.

If anything has gone wrong, contact us the same day with the order number and continuous unboxing video. The Live Arrival Guarantee claim requires the sealed parcel, opening and fish inside the sealed bag to be shown before release.

Respond to changes with water tests

Learn the fish’s usual swimming, colour, breathing, feeding response and use of cover, then act when these change. OATA identifies altered swimming, colour, temperament, breathing, appearance, body condition and feeding as useful early warning signs. A single observation should prompt a check of the animal and its environment rather than an improvised treatment.

If you see this, do this

Change First response
Hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or erratic swimming Test water quality and check aeration and filtration
Faster or slower gill movement Check water values and observe whether other fish show the same change
Darker or paler colour than normal Review water results, aggression and access to cover
More aggression or hiding Check the social plan and whether one fish controls a cave or route
White spots, fluffy growths, damaged fins or missing scales Record the change clearly and test the water
Reduced feeding or changed body condition Review the feeding response and water results together

Ammonia and nitrite should remain at zero mg per litre. If either appears, investigate the biological filter, recent additions, feeding and maintenance immediately. Do not respond by washing established filter media under the tap, because that may kill the bacteria needed to process the waste.

Contact us for further guidance when a health change persists or the fish shows a marked decline. Share the observed signs and current temperature, pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate results so the next decision begins with the aquarium conditions as well as the fish’s appearance.

Screen every companion by name

Treat the Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid as quite aggressive, though Seriously Fish describes its aggression as less pronounced than in many Victorian cichlids. It may be housed with similarly sized Mbuna. The profile also names similarly sized peaceful Aulonocara and Neolamprologus as possible companions. These are conditional examples, not universal tank mates.

Avoid other related species such as Victorian Mbipi because they may hybridise. Keep that exclusion unconditional in a display or breeding plan. Similar appearance, a shared regional label or placement in the same retail collection is not a reason to relax it.

Use this screening order

  1. Exclude related species: remove Victorian Mbipi and other related species from the plan.
  2. Compare adult size: use only the named companion types at a similar size.
  3. Check behaviour: allow for this fish’s aggression and spawning territoriality rather than assuming the calmer individual seen today will remain unchanged.
  4. Check the aquarium: retain the recommended base, caves and open water after the full companion plan is included.
  5. Observe access: confirm that no fish is persistently excluded from food, caves or swimming routes.
Compatibility decision Guidance
Similarly sized Mbuna Named as a possible match; monitor aggression
Similarly sized peaceful Aulonocara Named as a possible match; screen the complete setup
Similarly sized peaceful Neolamprologus Named as a possible match; screen the complete setup
Victorian Mbipi Avoid because related fish may hybridise
Other related species Avoid because related fish may hybridise

Plan groups around territorial behaviour

This species can be maintained in groups, but it becomes territorial when spawning. Males may pursue mates vigorously, so Seriously Fish advises keeping several females for each male in a sexed group. Use that composition rule when the sexes are known rather than treating a random set of fish as a planned harem.

The species profile’s breeding arrangement uses one male with at least three females in a dedicated spawning context. Do not turn that breeding ratio into a universal minimum group size for every display aquarium. A general group still needs enough correctly identified females per male, adequate space and continuous observation of access to food and shelter.

Watch how space is being used

  • One fish repeatedly controls a cave: check whether other fish retain usable shelter and routes around the territory.
  • A fish is persistently chased: reassess the group composition and total stocking plan rather than adding food as a distraction.
  • A group is calm outside spawning: continue observing because territorial behaviour can change during spawning.
  • Several males are present: do not assume rockwork alone will remove rivalry; monitor each fish’s access and be ready to revise the group.
  • Sexes are not known: avoid presenting the group as a deliberate male-to-female ratio until they are identified reliably.

Rock caves help define structured areas, while open water keeps movement routes available. Both features must remain usable after every fish and decoration is included. Adding more rocks is not automatically an improvement if the result removes the open water specified in the species profile.

Compatibility is an ongoing observation rather than a one-time label. Review the group after an introduction, when spawning behaviour begins and whenever feeding access, hiding or aggression changes. A companion type named in the profile can still require a different arrangement if an individual persistently excludes another fish.

Answer common keeper questions

How big does the Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid get?

FishBase records the Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid at a maximum of 11 cm total length. Plan the aquarium, rockwork and companions around that adult figure rather than the dispatch size.

What size aquarium does the Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid need?

Use an aquarium with a 120 × 30 cm base and a volume around 108 litres. Seriously Fish gives both measurements, so do not replace the footprint with a taller tank of similar volume.

How many Zebra Obliquidens Cichlids should I keep together?

The Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid can be maintained in a group. When planning a sexed group, keep several females to each male and expect territorial behaviour during spawning.

Is the Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid suitable for beginners?

The Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid is an intermediate choice because it is quite aggressive and needs a structured aquarium with stable hard, alkaline water and carefully screened companions.

What does the Zebra Obliquidens Cichlid eat?

Make suitable live and frozen varieties the bulk of its diet. OATA’s Malawi-cichlid guidance sets the schedule at twice a day, with only as much as it can eat within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 23–27°C, pH 8.0–8.2 and 12–15 dGH. These values are the overlap of the Seriously Fish species profile and OATA’s Malawi-cichlid group guidance.

Is it aggressive or likely to nip fins?

It is quite aggressive and becomes territorial when spawning. Plan for chasing, territory defence and vigorous pursuit of mates rather than treating it as a passive community fish.

Which animals can it live with?

Similarly sized Mbuna may work, as may similarly sized peaceful Aulonocara or Neolamprologus. Avoid other related species such as Victorian Mbipi because they may hybridise.

How does it arrive alive in the UK?

Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, before floating the bag. It is packed in pure oxygen inside an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it; receive it in person, show the sealed bag on video and float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release.

Check the care references

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  • 4 out of 5Verified buyer

    I have a small group of long finned mountain minnows. So was delighted to be able to order ten of this variety to increase the genetics in my tank . The ones I recieved are healthy but it’s to early to give a verdict on wether they are of a long finned type since they are small currently.

    Gordon Walker · 23 Sept 2026

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    100% success travel and "installation". Pleased with quality of purchase. The Siamese fighter a bit "shy" so have not yet seen him at his best yet but looking good. Happy customer. GG

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