−13%
Moderate
Red Dragon Peacock Cichlid (Aulonocara sp. 'Red Dragon')
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L
£11.30£12.99
A metallic blue-and-gold Lake Malawi peacock cichlid (Aulonocara korneliae) that reaches about 10 cm. Hardy, semi-aggressive and ideal for a hard-water Malawi aquarium. Order online with tracked UK delivery and our live arrival guarantee.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Photos are AI-enhanced, so the animal may show subtle colour or marking differences.
Aulonocara korneliae
Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid bond and breed in male/female pairs — buying a pair gives them the social structure they need.
A metallic blue-and-gold Lake Malawi peacock cichlid (Aulonocara korneliae) that reaches about 10 cm. Hardy, semi-aggressive and ideal for a hard-water Malawi aquarium. Order online with tracked UK delivery and our live arrival guarantee.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Photos are AI-enhanced, so the animal may show subtle colour or marking differences.
Cichlids are one of the most diverse fish families in the hobby. From tiny apistogrammas to massive oscars, this guide covers the basics of keeping them well.
Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors
If you are searching for a striking African cichlid for sale in the UK with more character than the usual starter species, Aulonocara korneliae deserves a close look. Commonly sold as the Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid or Chizumulu Peacock, this Lake Malawi cichlid combines metallic blue, gold and violet tones with the alert, inquisitive personality that makes peacock cichlids so rewarding to keep. It reaches around 10 cm as an adult, can live up to 10 years with good care, and suits aquarists who want a colourful, active hard-water display. For many fishkeepers it sits in the sweet spot between a true beginner fish and a demanding specialist, making it a strong choice for anyone building a Lake Malawi setup.
This is not a fish for a tiny desktop tank. It needs stable water, room to establish territories and a properly planned Malawi layout. The recommended minimum is a 150-litre aquarium with hard, alkaline water held between 24°C and 28°C, because peacocks only show their best colour and behaviour when conditions are right. If you want to buy live tropical fish online in the UK or compare peacock cichlids for sale before choosing, this species offers brilliant colour without the constant aggression seen in many Mbuna. For full husbandry background, see our African cichlid care guide.
Aulonocara korneliae is one of the peacock cichlids from Lake Malawi, a group valued in the aquarium hobby for vivid male colour, active midwater swimming and maternal mouthbrooding. In the trade it is often discussed alongside other Aulonocara species and mild haps, especially by aquarists building a balanced Malawi display rather than a high-conflict Mbuna tank.
Aulonocara korneliae is a Lake Malawi cichlid, endemic to the lake in East Africa and found specifically around Chizumulu Island. That restricted range is one reason the species feels special in the hobby. Unlike fish collected from broad river systems, this cichlid evolved in a very specific rocky and sandy shoreline environment where the water is clear, mineral-rich and consistently alkaline.
In the wild, peacock cichlids hunt small invertebrates in and over the substrate. They use sensory pores around the head to detect movement in sand, then pick out tiny prey items. That natural feeding style explains why a sandy base matters so much in captivity, and why this fish behaves differently from algae-grazing Mbuna. It is best thought of as a sand-sifting omnivore with a strong preference for quality prepared foods and meaty supplements rather than a dedicated algae or pest-control species.
The natural waters of Lake Malawi are stable, oxygen-rich and low in dissolved organics. A healthy Malawi display should look bright, crisp and open rather than swampy or overgrown, so cloudy water, green algae or unpleasant odours in the aquarium point to setup or maintenance issues rather than anything about the fish itself.
It is worth noting that Aulonocara korneliae is a warm, indoor freshwater species and not a pond fish. It belongs in a heated aquarium with hard, alkaline water. Compared with many rock-dwelling Malawi cichlids, this species stands out for its refined colour and more measured aggression.
Mimicking the natural mix of open sand, broken sightlines and rock piles improves confidence, reduces chasing and helps males display stronger colour. A bare, bright tank with no structure often makes peacocks look washed out and skittish.
A good Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid tank setup starts with space. While the listed minimum is 150 litres, that is really the floor for a carefully planned group. For a single male with three or more females, or for a mixed peacock display, 180-240 litres is far more practical. When sizing a tank for this species, think in terms of footprint rather than height: a long tank gives subordinate fish room to move away from dominant individuals.
A 90 cm tank is the minimum length I would consider for a quiet species group, and a 100 cm tank is better if you want more than one male line of sight. A 50 cm or 60 cm tank is too cramped long term, and an 80 cm tank may work temporarily for juveniles but adults need more room. For many homes, a 90 cm aquarium with strong filtration and rockwork is the sensible starting point.
This species is sometimes described as suitable for beginners, but that only applies when the tank is large enough and correctly stocked. A single specimen can be kept in a species-focused setup, though peacocks usually show more natural behaviour in a harem group. In a larger display, mixing several Aulonocara species should only be done with care to avoid hybridisation and excessive male rivalry.
The correct Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid temperature is 24-28°C, with 25-26°C being a very reliable day-to-day target. For UK keepers the simplest answer is to hold it stable in the mid-20s Celsius using a dependable heater. pH should sit between 7.5 and 8.5, with hardness around 10-25 dGH. This is a hard-water fish that does not appreciate soft, acidic community conditions, and stable alkaline water is more important than chasing exact decimal points.
Because Malawi tanks are heavily stocked compared with many community aquariums, strong filtration matters. A quality external canister or oversized internal filter works well. Choose your filter and heater as a pair: filtration for waste processing, heating for stability. Size the heater to the aquarium volume, check the temperature with a separate thermometer rather than trusting the dial, and position the heater near the filter outflow so warm water circulates evenly. Dead spots behind rockwork can trap waste, so direct the flow to keep debris moving.
Fine sand is ideal. It allows natural foraging and is safer than sharp gravel if fish sift or mouth the substrate. Build stable rock piles directly on the tank base before adding sand, so burrowing cannot undermine them. A classic Malawi layout for this species uses open sand at the front, caves and broken rock lines at the back, and plenty of swimming room in the middle water column.
For planting, use hardy species that tolerate alkaline water and occasional digging. Anubias attached to rock and Java fern on wood or stone can work, though many Malawi keepers prefer a mostly rocky scape. A planted peacock setup is possible only with robust plants and careful hardscape design. Avoid overly intense lighting unless it is balanced by decor, because bright bare tanks can make these fish nervous.
Always cycle the aquarium for four to six weeks before adding peacocks. Ammonia and nitrite spikes are far more dangerous to Malawi cichlids than slightly imperfect decor.
The correct Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid diet is varied, controlled and protein-aware. In the wild these fish pick small invertebrates from the substrate, so in captivity they do best on quality cichlid pellets supported by frozen foods such as brine shrimp, krill and occasional spirulina-based foods. Good feeding is about balance rather than simply offering the richest food possible.
As a staple, choose a sinking or slow-sinking cichlid pellet formulated for omnivorous African cichlids. This gives consistent nutrition and reduces the risk of digestive trouble. Supplement with frozen brine shrimp and krill two or three times per week, and use spirulina to support colour and digestive health, especially in mixed Malawi tanks where not every fish has the same protein needs.
Feeding should be modest: once or twice daily, only what the group clears in under a minute. Overfeeding is one of the fastest ways to trigger algae, cloudy water and poor health, because uneaten food breaks down into waste that feeds green, brown and hair algae. If algae is becoming a problem, the first step is almost always feeding less and improving maintenance rather than buying a quick fix. Use aquarium plant food only if you genuinely keep live plants, and dose carefully, since excess nutrients in a rocky cichlid tank simply feed algae.
| Time | Food | Amount |
|---|---|---|
| Morning | Quality cichlid pellets | Small pinch, eaten in 30-60 seconds |
| Evening | Pellets or frozen brine shrimp/krill | Light second feed, 2-4 times weekly |
A useful comparison species if you are planning a mixed peacock display and want to match feeding style across compatible Aulonocara.
Another peacock cichlid option for aquarists feeding a varied pellet-and-frozen-food Malawi routine.
Overfeeding causes ammonia spikes, digestive stress and rapid water quality decline. In Malawi tanks, that often shows up as dull colour, clamped fins and worsening algae before the fish stop eating.
The Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid is prized for the contrast between metallic blue facial colour, warmer gold to bronze body tones and iridescent highlights that shift with angle and mood. Adult males are the show fish here. As they mature, they develop stronger head colour, cleaner fin edging and a more intense body sheen. Females remain far plainer, usually in subdued silver-brown tones that help them blend into the background.
At around 10 cm adult size, Aulonocara korneliae has the typical elegant peacock shape: a laterally compressed body, pointed head, long dorsal fin and smooth, gliding movement through the middle of the tank. The best specimens show a clean profile without pinched flanks, and males should hold their fins open when comfortable. Strong colour is usually a sign of stable water, low stress and a well-structured environment.
Our photos show the natural tones under balanced aquarium lighting rather than heavily edited colour. In person, the effect is often richer than a single image can capture, especially when the fish displays over pale sand and dark rock. This is why many aquarists choose the species for a dedicated Malawi display rather than a mixed community tank, where it simply looks more at home.
When assessing colour before buying, look for body depth, fin condition and alert posture, not just bright saturation. A stressed fish can look colourful in a single photo but show poor condition in real life.
The key to good compatibility is understanding Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid behaviour. This species is semi-aggressive, not relentlessly violent. Males establish display areas and may chase rivals, especially similarly coloured peacocks. Females are usually calmer, but all individuals need space and structure. When choosing tank mates for the Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid, think in terms of other hard-water cichlids with a similar temperament rather than peaceful soft-water community fish.
Good companions include other peacock cichlids, selected mild haps and robust catfish such as Synodontis. Suitable examples from our range include Aulonocara Sp Neon Red Calico Peacock, Rubin Red Peacock Cichlid - Aulonocara and Aulonocara kandeense. These are natural comparison points for a mixed peacock setup. If you prefer a more assertive Malawi display, Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus can work only with caution, as aggressive Mbuna may bully or outcompete peacocks.
Species to avoid include tiny tetras, shrimp and delicate community fish. This is not a fish for the standard community model, and it is definitely not suitable with fancy invertebrates. Do not choose tank mates based on cleaning myths; choose them based on water chemistry, temperament and adult size.
Some hobbyists ask whether a peacock can live with South American cichlids such as Thorichthys Maculipinnis - Elliot'S Cichlid - or Guianacara Dacrya - South American Cichlid. While size and temperament may look similar, the water chemistry and behavioural style are different enough that I would not recommend mixing them long term. Likewise, Tanganyikan species such as Kiriza Yellow Cichlid - Tropheus Moorii or Orange I Blunthead Cichlid - Tropheus have different dietary and social needs.
If you are building a stocking plan, the safest route is a species-focused peacock group or a carefully chosen Malawi mix with similar aggression levels. Avoid using overstocking as a shortcut for aggression control unless you have the filtration and experience to manage it.
| Species | Compatible? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rubin Red Peacock Cichlid - Aulonocara | ✅ Yes | Good match in water chemistry and temperament in a spacious tank. |
| Aulonocara kandeense | ✅ Yes | Works well in mixed peacock setups if male aggression is monitored. |
| Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus | ⚠️ Caution | More aggressive Mbuna behaviour can stress peacocks in smaller aquariums. |
| Shrimp and very small fish | ❌ Avoid | Likely to be harassed, eaten or stressed by cichlid activity. |
Always quarantine new arrivals for two to four weeks before adding them to an established Malawi aquarium. It protects your existing stock and gives new fish time to recover, feed well and settle before facing territorial residents.
Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid breeding is very achievable for aquarists with a stable Malawi setup. This species is a maternal mouthbrooder, which means the female carries the fertilised eggs in her mouth until the fry are developed enough to be released. Breeding difficulty is moderate rather than hard, mainly because success depends on correct group structure, low stress and proper conditioning.
The ideal breeding arrangement is a harem: one mature male with three or more females. That spreads attention and reduces stress on any single female. For breeding, stability matters far more than additives: clean, alkaline water, a mature filter and quality food do most of the work.
Spawning usually begins when the male intensifies in colour and claims a display site over sand or near a flat stone. He will shimmy, circle and try to lead a female to the chosen spot. After spawning, the female picks up the eggs in her mouth, so with mouthbrooders the eggs are rarely left exposed for long. Instead, you may notice the female stop feeding and hold a fuller throat area.
Incubation commonly lasts around 18-28 days depending on temperature and female condition. During this period, keep stress low and avoid unnecessary netting. Once the fry are released, they can be left with the mother briefly in a quiet species tank, but survival is much higher if they are raised separately. Feed newly free-swimming fry on crushed cichlid food, fine fry foods and freshly hatched brine shrimp.
Condition the group with small, varied meals for two weeks before expected spawning, then perform a moderate water change with temperature-matched water. This often triggers stronger male display and more reliable female response without causing stress.
Peacock cichlids are often bought on colour alone, but that can lead to stocking mistakes. Comparing species helps you choose a fish that fits your tank size, aggression tolerance and long-term plan. If you are deciding between this fish and another peacock, think about adult colour, group dynamics and whether you want a dedicated species look or a mixed display.
| Feature | Aulonocara korneliae | Aulonocara Sp Neon Red Calico Peacock |
|---|---|---|
| Max Size | 10 cm | 10-12 cm |
| Care Level | Moderate | Moderate |
| Temperature | 24-28°C | 24-28°C |
| Best For | Refined blue-gold Malawi display | Brighter mixed peacock colour contrast |
| Feature | Aulonocara korneliae | Yellow Elongatus Cichlid |
|---|---|---|
| Temperament | Semi-aggressive | More aggressive |
| Diet | Omnivore | More herbivore-leaning Mbuna diet |
| Layout | Sand with rock structure | Heavier rockwork |
| Hybridisation Risk | With other peacocks | Low with peacocks |
| Best For | Balanced peacock aquarium | More assertive Malawi tank |
Choose Aulonocara korneliae if you want a manageable Malawi show fish with elegant colour and less chaos than many Mbuna. Choose Aulonocara Sp Neon Red Calico Peacock if you want stronger red tones in a mixed peacock group, or Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus only if you prefer a more aggressive, rock-dominant Malawi setup. For aquarists comparing peacock options, this species is especially appealing when you want a classic peacock body shape with a cooler, more metallic look.
A healthy fish should be alert, hold its fins open, respond quickly to food and show clear eyes with no excess mucus. Colour will vary with mood and hierarchy, but healthy males should still show a visible sheen even when not fully displaying. Common diseases in Malawi cichlids include ich, bacterial fin damage, internal parasites and Malawi bloat linked to stress, poor diet or bad water quality.
Most problems start with husbandry. Maintaining peacocks well comes down to a consistent routine: test water weekly, remove waste, clean filter media in old tank water and avoid overstocking beyond your filtration capacity. As a minimum, test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH, aiming for zero ammonia, zero nitrite and controlled nitrate.
Water changes are especially important: replace 25-40% weekly using dechlorinated, temperature-matched water. Use a conditioner that neutralises chlorine and chloramine, and avoid sudden chemistry swings.
A separate quarantine tank is strongly recommended for new arrivals or sick fish. It does not need to be elaborate, but it does need a heater, cover and mature biological filtration. Many disease outbreaks begin when fish are added directly from a retailer into a display tank without observation, so online and shop-bought fish alike should be quarantined carefully.
Never medicate a display tank blindly. Diagnose first, improve water quality immediately, and isolate affected fish where possible. Many “mystery illnesses” in peacock cichlids are actually stress responses to poor water, bullying or diet problems.
The typical Blue-Gold Peacock Cichlid behaviour pattern is alert, curious and moderately territorial. These fish spend much of their time in the middle and lower-middle levels, moving in and out of open sand areas while watching tankmates closely. Males become more intense around feeding time and when displaying to females, often deepening in colour and holding their fins wider.
They are not schooling fish in the strict sense, so social grouping matters more than shoaling. The best arrangement is one male with several females, or a carefully managed mixed peacock group in a larger tank. Too many males in a cramped aquarium leads to constant sparring and faded subordinate fish.
Natural behaviour is easiest to see in a tank with open sand, caves, stable water and low background stress. In poorly structured aquariums, peacocks may hide, hover nervously or lash out more often than normal. If you want a fish with visible personality but not nonstop chaos, this species is an excellent middle ground.
When buying a fish like Aulonocara korneliae, quality matters more than impulse. Peacock cichlids can look very different depending on age, stress level and how they were raised. We select stock for body shape, finnage, alert behaviour and clean colour development, not just temporary brightness under shop lights, so the fish you receive is one that will continue to colour up at home.
Each fish is settled before dispatch and observed for feeding response and general condition. This is especially important for Malawi species, which can arrive pale if moved too quickly through the supply chain. Proper holding, temperature stability and secure packing make a real difference to how fish arrive and settle, which is why ordering specialist cichlids online can be a better option than relying on whatever happens to be in stock locally.
Orders are sent in insulated packaging with professional fish bags, oxygen where appropriate, and heat packs in winter conditions, with tracked delivery to reduce transit uncertainty. We also include practical acclimation guidance, because peacocks do best when introduced slowly to established, stable water. This is a specialist hard-water cichlid for a planned Malawi aquarium rather than a casual add-on purchase, so order with confidence once your tank is mature and ready.
Complete your Malawi setup with compatible or comparable species from our cichlid range. For a mixed peacock display, consider Rubin Red Peacock Cichlid - Aulonocara, Aulonocara Sp Neon Red Calico Peacock or Aulonocara kandeense. If you want to compare temperament before stocking, look at Yellow Elongatus Cichlid - Chindongo Elongatus for a more assertive Malawi option. For aquarists exploring other cichlid styles, Thorichthys Maculipinnis - Elliot'S Cichlid - and Guianacara Dacrya - South American Cichlid show how different cichlid groups vary in water chemistry and behaviour. Always match species to water type rather than colour alone.
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 150L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 300L
18–26°C · pH 6.5–8 · 30L
23–27°C · pH 7.4–8.4 · 500L
20–27°C · pH 6–7 · 54L
23–27°C · pH 7.4–8.4 · 150L
24–28°C · pH 6.5–7.8 · 300L
20–24°C · pH 7–8 · 45L
24–28°C · pH 6.5–7.5 · 2000L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 200L
24–28°C · pH 5.5–7 · 60L
18–25°C · pH 6–8 · 100L
24–28°C · pH 7–8 · 120L
18–28°C · pH 6.5–8 · 20L
24–27°C · pH 7.5–8.8 · 150L
22–26°C · pH 6–7.5 · 60L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 40L
24–28°C · pH 7.5–8.5 · 500L