Pigeon Blood Discus (Symphysodon sp.)

Meet the Pigeon Blood Discus

The Pigeon Blood Discus is a warm-coloured form of discus, the round, flat-sided cichlids of the South American genus Symphysodon. The fish in these photographs has a pale orange body that deepens to red towards the edges of its fins, a scattering of fine white spots over the head and upper flank, and a bright red eye. It is a fish for someone who wants a calm, social centrepiece and is ready to give discus what they need: warm, soft, very clean water, room to grow and the company of other discus.

Few aquarium fish have a following quite like it. Wikipedia's article on discus describes a genus native to the Amazon river basin in Brazil, popular for its distinctive shape, calm behaviour, many bright colours and patterns and dedicated parenting. Discus farming in several Asian countries is now a major industry, and the fish are also sometimes called pompadour fish. OATA, the UK ornamental fish trade association, notes that discus are held in the highest regard by fishkeepers, that captive-bred discus are the most common in the trade and that many colour variations have been selectively bred. Pigeon Blood is the trade name this colour form is sold under.

Why keepers choose discus

Part of the appeal is behaviour as much as colour. A settled group of discus explores the aquarium together through the open water, and OATA notes that they take reassurance from smaller dither fish, using them to judge that no predators are near. A well-planned discus tank has a calm, unhurried feel as a result. The Pigeon Blood's orange and red tones stand out against green plants and dark wood, which is how it appears in the photographs on this page, and a group of them makes a strong focal point in a large aquarium.

That calm look depends on work behind the scenes. Discus need more specific water conditions than many other fish, and the routine that keeps them well, above all a large weekly water change, is the part to be sure of before buying.

What each purchase includes

One purchase is one live Pigeon Blood Discus at the size you pick. Sizes run in single-centimetre steps from 2cm to 15cm, and there is also a grade labelled XL selection HQ, which carries no centimetre figure. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Not every size is in stock at once, so the size menu on this page is the one to go by when you order.

Before ordering, you are welcome to ask us about the water the fish have been kept in, or about the body size behind the XL selection HQ label. OATA advises finding out what conditions discus have been kept in and matching them at home, and it is far easier to adjust an aquarium before a fish arrives than after.

Naming and identity

Discus belong to the cichlid family, Cichlidae, and the World Register of Marine Species entry for Symphysodon lists it as an accepted genus, described by Heckel in 1840. The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Symphysodon and its care group. That is why the scientific name is written Symphysodon sp., and why the planning figures on this page are the ones OATA gives for discus in general.

Is a Pigeon Blood Discus right for you?

Discus are difficult to sex unless they are in breeding condition, so the fish on this page are chosen by size alone. Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Discus pigeon blood listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

About the photographs

The four photographs show a Pigeon Blood Discus beside driftwood, a pair facing each other over low plants, a side view against a plain blue background and a close view above broad leaves on fine sand. Gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. Natural colour, pattern, size and maturity can vary between live animals. The fish you receive will be the size you chose rather than the size pictured.

Planning the aquarium

Space for an adult group

Plan the aquarium for the adult group you intend to keep, not for the fish on the day it arrives. The OATA care sheet for discus recommends about 50 litres of water for each adult discus, with plenty of floor space, and says an aquarium of approximately 300 litres will house a shoal of six adults. Its advice is to buy an aquarium as large as you reasonably can, because a larger volume keeps temperature and water quality more stable, and stability is what discus reward.

Size matters because adult discus can reach up to 20 cm across, even though they are slow growers. A small group of young fish can look lost in a large aquarium at first. Give them the full volume from the start rather than planning to upgrade later, so the water you are keeping stable is the water they will live in as adults.

Layout, substrate and cover

Discus feed partly by blowing at the bottom, so OATA suggests fine gravel or sand as the substrate. They can be shy, and live plants give them cover to retreat into; branches, wood and other ornaments add more. Balance that cover with open water, because a group of deep-bodied fish needs room to swim together as it explores the tank.

One simple way to meet both needs is to keep plants and wood towards the back and sides and leave a clear swimming area across the front and centre. That also leaves you easy access to the open substrate you will siphon each week. OATA recommends overhead lighting for the aquarium, which also lets you see the fish's colour clearly when you check on them.

Filtration, heating and a mature tank

Whatever the size of the aquarium, a filter is essential. The RSPCA's guidance on fish environments explains why: fish release ammonia, which is toxic, and a working biological filter grows the beneficial bacteria that convert it to nitrite, which is also toxic, and then to nitrate, which is safer. No fish should be kept without a well set-up, maintained filter, and discus, which need more specific water conditions than many other fish, depend on one completely.

Holding 26–30°C all year round in a UK home needs a reliable heater sized for the aquarium, plus a thermometer you can read at a glance. The filter also needs to be fully mature before any discus goes in. If you are starting from an empty tank, our guide to setting up a tropical fish tank in ten safe steps walks through maturing an aquarium before livestock arrives.

Before you order

• The aquarium is running at a steady 26–30°C.
• Ammonia and nitrite both read zero, and nitrate is no higher than 20 mg per litre.
• You have planned space for at least five adult discus.
• Plants and wood give cover, with open water left for swimming.
• You have a siphon, water conditioner and test kit ready for the weekly routine.

Water quality and weekly upkeep

The values to aim for

OATA's care sheet gives the ranges below for discus. They cover discus as a group rather than a species-specific optimum for this colour form, and they are the ranges to keep your aquarium inside.

The same discus care sheet notes that tank-bred discus can tolerate harder water than their wild counterparts, but that clean, warm, soft, slightly acidic water is optimum for all discus, and that the best way to achieve it is through regular partial water changes. In practice, aim for the softer, more acidic side of these ranges where your water allows, and put steady values ahead of chasing a particular number.

Testing and matching your water

If terms such as general and carbonate hardness are unfamiliar, our guide to aquarium water parameters explains which values to test and why each one matters. Once you have results from your own tap and tank, the water parameter matcher compares them with the ranges above, so you can see which values need attention before your discus arrives.

Test the aquarium at least once a week so ammonia and nitrite cannot build up unnoticed, and test again whenever the fish behave differently. Keeping a simple written log of temperature and test results makes slow drifts much easier to spot than relying on memory.

Reading the results

Ammonia and nitrite should always read zero. Both are toxic, and any reading means the filter is not keeping up with the waste going in, so stop adding fish, feed lightly and find the cause. Nitrate is the end product of the filter's work and is safer, but OATA still sets a ceiling of 20 mg per litre for discus, which is one reason the weekly water change is so large. The pH range of 6.0 to 7.5 runs from slightly acidic to just above neutral, and both hardness figures sit in OATA's soft to medium band. If a value drifts outside the table, bring it back through your regular partial water changes, which OATA names as the best way to keep discus water right.

Why stability matters

Discus reward consistency. OATA's advice to buy as large an aquarium as possible rests on stability: a larger volume holds its temperature and water quality more steadily, so a warm afternoon or a slightly heavy feed moves the numbers less. The same thinking runs through the rest of the routine. Replacement water treated with conditioner, water changes on a regular day each week and small, frequent feeds all help keep the values in the table from swinging.

A weekly routine that suits discus

• Change 50% of the water at least once every week, as OATA strongly recommends, using a siphon to lift solid waste from the substrate.
• On sand, stir the open areas regularly so waste cannot collect in dead spots.
• Treat all replacement water with a tap water conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine before it goes into the aquarium.
• Check the filter for blockages. If it needs cleaning, rinse the media lightly in the tank water you have just removed; do not run it under the tap, because any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacteria living in it.

Daily checks

• Read the thermometer and confirm the aquarium is holding 26–30°C.
• Watch each feed and make sure every discus comes forward to eat.
• Count the fish and look for any of the warning signs in the health section.
• Check the filter is running normally.

That weekly change is the biggest regular commitment discus ask of a keeper, so plan the practical side before you buy: a siphon or hose long enough to reach your sink or drain, containers for the new water and enough conditioner for the volume you change. A routine that is easy to run is one you will keep up, and discus depend on it.

Feeding

What discus eat

Discus are generally carnivores, and in the wild they eat aquatic invertebrates. At home, OATA recommends specialised dried discus foods, in granule or pellet form, fed at least once a day so the fish get the vitamins they need. Discus also appreciate frozen or live foods, in particular beef heart, bloodworm and special discus mixes, which add variety alongside the dried staple.

How much and how often

Discus have a relatively small stomach, so they do best on two or three smaller feeds spread through the day rather than one large meal. Offer only what the group eats within a few minutes each time, and watch that every fish gets a share rather than just the boldest.

The dried discus food is the part of the diet OATA ties to vitamins, so keep it in the daily routine even on days when you also offer frozen or live food. Rotating between the frozen foods OATA names keeps meals varied.

Take care not to overfeed. Uneaten food breaks down and releases toxic waste into the water, which undoes the work of your water changes. Siphon out any leftovers, and if a discus eats less than usual or loses interest in food, treat that as a reason to test the water and look more closely at the fish.

Arrival day and settling in

Every order is hand-packed by our team: the fish is bagged in pure oxygen and packed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel on a tracked service, and we email the tracking number and your confirmed delivery date so you know when to be in. The full terms are on our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee page.

Before delivery day

• Test the aquarium and confirm ammonia and nitrite read zero and the temperature is steady.
• Note the confirmed delivery date from our email and plan to be at the address to receive the parcel.
• Have a phone ready to film the unboxing in one continuous take.

On the day

1. Be at the delivery address to receive the parcel; live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. On the day it arrives, film one continuous unboxing video showing the parcel still sealed with the outer box visible, you opening it, and the fish still inside the sealed bag.
3. Acclimatise slowly: float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
4. Release the discus into the aquarium and never pour the bag water into your tank.
5. If anything has gone wrong, contact us the same day, WhatsApp being fastest, with your order number and the video, and we will arrange a replacement or refund.

The first weeks

Before any discus goes in, check that ammonia and nitrite both read zero. After that, build your group gradually. The beneficial bacteria in a filter only increase as the fish load and feeding increase, so adding too many fish too quickly can cause new tank syndrome: there are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the extra waste, ammonia and nitrite rise, and fish can become ill or die.

Discus can be shy, and the plant and wood cover you have built gives a new arrival somewhere to settle. Keep feeding light while it finds its feet, keep testing, and hold back on further additions until your readings stay at zero.

Health and warning signs

What a healthy discus looks like

OATA describes healthy fish as having clear, bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcers or bumps and normal swimming behaviour. Get to know how your discus look and behave in the first weeks, because small changes are easiest to spot against that picture of normal.

Changes worth acting on

• Swimming: hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or swimming erratically.
• Colour: turning darker or paler than normal.
• Temperament: becoming more aggressive, or hiding more than usual.
• Breathing: gill covers moving faster or slower than normal.
• Appearance: white spots, fluffy growths, or loss of fins or scales.
• Condition: gaining or losing body weight.
• Feeding: eating less, or losing interest in food.

Checking a new arrival

The healthy-fish signs above are also what to look for when a new discus reaches you, while it is still in its sealed bag and on camera. If anything has gone wrong, follow the same-day steps in the arrival section, because the video and your order number are what we need to put it right.

When something looks wrong

If you are concerned about any of your fish, test your water quality first, then contact us with the results so we can talk through what you are seeing. A clear record of recent readings, feeding and water changes makes that conversation far more useful.

Choosing a size and growing on

Young fish or larger fish

With fifteen sizes on offer, the first decision is how much growing-on you want to do yourself. The smallest sizes still need the full adult aquarium, the weekly water changes and the two or three small feeds a day that OATA recommends for discus. Buying small saves nothing on the set-up; it simply means more of the growing happens in your care.

The larger numbered sizes bring you closer to the 20 cm across that adult discus can reach, but because discus grow slowly, even the biggest of them still has growing to do. Whichever size you choose, it is the size on arrival, and the aquarium you set up now is the one it will grow into.

Building a group

OATA asks for two things that pull in different directions: a group of at least five, and a slow build-up of numbers so the filter can keep pace. Your filter's capacity decides how quickly you can reach a full group. Test for ammonia and nitrite after each addition, and add more fish only when both read zero. Choosing fish close in size also means no single discus starts out much larger than the rest.

Pairs and breeding

The one exception OATA makes to the group rule is an already established breeding pair, which can sometimes be kept on its own. Because discus are difficult to sex until they are in breeding condition, young fish cannot be picked out as pairs. Discus are well known for dedicated parenting, which is one of the reasons they are so popular with keepers.

Tank mates and group life

Discus need other discus

Discus are shoaling fish, and OATA's discus guidance is to keep them in groups of at least five, with more being better. Discus are social, and those kept singly or in groups that are too small will often become stressed or bullied by larger or more dominant fish. The only exception is an already established breeding pair, which can sometimes be kept as two. For almost every buyer, then, a Pigeon Blood Discus is one member of a group rather than a lone display fish.

Plan the group and the aquarium together. OATA's example of six adults in approximately 300 litres is a useful yardstick: a smaller tank means a smaller group, and a group smaller than five is the arrangement to avoid.

Companions that can work

A discus aquarium is built around the discus, so only a handful of other species suit it. OATA names medium-sized tetras, Corydoras, plecos and dwarf cichlids as kinds that can work, and explains that smaller dither fish can help discus feel more confident, because discus use them to judge that no predators are near.

Treat those as kinds to research rather than a shopping list. Every companion must be comfortable in the same warm, soft, slightly acidic water at 26–30°C and must suit the same weekly routine. Check each species' own needs before adding it, and remember that every extra fish adds to the waste your filter has to handle.

How to judge a possible companion

• Its needs sit within the discus ranges: 26–30°C, pH 6.0–7.5 and soft to medium water.
• It will not grow larger than your discus or dominate them, since larger or more dominant fish are the ones OATA warns about.
• It belongs to one of the kinds OATA names, and you have checked its own care needs.
• Your filter and water-change routine can absorb the extra fish once the discus group is complete.

Add companions the same way as discus: a few at a time, testing for ammonia and nitrite after each addition, because every new fish and every extra feed asks more of the filter's bacteria.

What to avoid

• Keeping a discus on its own, or in a group smaller than five, unless it is part of an established breeding pair.
• Larger or more dominant fish, which leave discus stressed or bullied.
• Any fish that needs cooler or harder water than the discus ranges in the care section.
• Adding several fish at once to a filter that has not yet caught up with the extra load.

Watching the group

Once the aquarium is stocked, watch how the discus behave with one another and with their companions. OATA's warning signs include a fish hiding more than usual, a change in colour and reduced interest in food. In a discus group these can be the first sign that one fish is being pushed around. If you see them, test the water first, then look at whether the group is large enough and whether any fish is dominating feeding times.

Choosing other discus

If you are still deciding on colour, our discus collection shows the other colour forms we keep. Whatever mix you settle on, plan numbers around the adult group and the aquarium volume first, then choose the colours.

Questions about keeping discus

How big does a Pigeon Blood Discus get?

Plan for a large, deep-bodied fish. OATA's care sheet for discus says adults can reach up to 20 cm across, although they grow slowly. That figure covers discus in general, because the exact species behind this colour form has not been identified, and the size you choose when ordering is its size on arrival rather than its adult size.

What size aquarium does a Pigeon Blood Discus need?

OATA recommends about 50 litres of water for each adult discus, with plenty of floor space, and says an aquarium of approximately 300 litres will house a shoal of six adults. Buy as large an aquarium as you reasonably can, because a bigger volume keeps temperature and water quality more stable.

How many Pigeon Blood Discus should be kept together?

Keep a group of at least five, and more is better. Discus kept singly or in groups that are too small will often become stressed or bullied by larger or more dominant fish. The exception is an already established breeding pair, which can sometimes be kept as two.

Is this discus a good choice for beginners?

Discus need more specific water conditions than many other fish: warm, soft, slightly acidic and very clean water, a large aquarium, a group of at least five and a 50% partial water change at least once every week. They suit a keeper who already runs a mature aquarium and is ready for that routine.

What should I feed a discus?

Discus are generally carnivores. Offer a specialised dried discus food in granule or pellet form at least once a day, and add frozen or live foods such as beef heart, bloodworm and discus mixes. Their stomachs are small, so two or three smaller feeds through the day suit them better than one large meal; give only what they eat within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does a Pigeon Blood Discus need?

OATA's guidance for discus is 26–30°C, pH 6.0–7.5, general hardness 4–12°dH and carbonate hardness 3–10°dKH, with zero ammonia, zero nitrite and nitrate no higher than 20 mg per litre. These ranges cover discus as a group, so keep your aquarium steady inside them.

Are discus aggressive?

Discus are known for their calm behaviour, and OATA notes they are not as aggressive as some of their close cichlid relatives. The pressure to watch for comes from larger or more dominant fish, including dominant discus in a group that is too small, which is why group size matters so much.

Which fish can live with a Pigeon Blood Discus?

Only a handful of kinds suit a discus aquarium. OATA names medium-sized tetras, Corydoras, plecos and dwarf cichlids, and smaller dither fish can help discus feel more confident. Check that each companion suits the same warm, soft water before adding it.

How does a Pigeon Blood Discus arrive alive in the UK?

It is hand-packed by our team, bagged in pure oxygen in an insulated poly box with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and carried by a licensed live-animal courier on a tracked service. Someone must be in to receive it. Film one continuous unboxing video from the sealed parcel to the fish still in its bag, float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish, and never pour the bag water into your tank. Any Live Arrival Guarantee claim needs that video, sent to us the same day with your order number.

Sources

The care figures on this page come from these public sources, alongside our own delivery terms.

• OATA: How to look after discus – water values, aquarium size, group size, feeding, maintenance and health checks for discus.
• Wikipedia: Discus (fish) – natural history of the genus Symphysodon.
• World Register of Marine Species: Symphysodon Heckel, 1840 – accepted genus within the cichlid family.
• RSPCA: fish environment – why a working filter matters and how ammonia becomes nitrate.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee terms, linked in the arrival section above.