Blue Turquoise Discus (Symphysodon sp.)

Blue Turquoise Discus at a glance

The Blue Turquoise Discus (Symphysodon sp.) is a discus with a pale turquoise body traced with wavy orange-brown lines, and each purchase supplies one live fish in the size you choose. Before anything else, plan for two things: a group of at least five discus, because they are social fish that do badly alone, and warm, soft, very clean water maintained with large weekly water changes. If you can provide both, it is easy to see why OATA says discus are held in the highest regard among fishkeepers.

“Blue turquoise” is a trade colour name rather than a scientific one. OATA notes that many different colour variations of discus have been selectively bred, and this is one of them. The exact species has not been identified, so the care advice here follows the genus Symphysodon and its care group. WoRMS lists Symphysodon Heckel, 1840 as an accepted genus of the cichlid family, and Wikipedia describes the genus as native to the Amazon river basin in Brazil, noting that discus are sometimes called pompadour fish.

What makes discus different

Discus are cichlids, but they are not kept like most cichlids. OATA notes that they are not as aggressive as some of their close relatives, yet they have specialised care requirements. Wikipedia puts their popularity down to their distinctive shape, calm behaviour, many bright colours and patterns, and dedicated parenting, and notes that discus have a devoted following of collectors, with shows and competitions of their own. Their aquaculture in several Asian countries is a major industry. The practical upshot is that a discus aquarium is usually planned around the discus themselves, with everything else chosen to suit them.

Choosing a size

This listing covers twelve sizes from 4 cm to 15 cm in 1 cm steps, plus an XL selection HQ grade at the top of the range. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. OATA describes discus as slow growers, so a 4 cm fish is a youngster with a long way to go, while the larger sizes give you a fish much closer to its adult shape and colour from the start.

• Smaller sizes suit keepers who enjoy watching a group grow up together and whose aquarium is already mature and stable.
• Larger sizes suit keepers who want the full display sooner, or who are adding to an established group of similar-sized fish.
• One group, one size: we suggest choosing the same size for every fish in a new group. OATA notes that discus kept singly or in too small groups will often become stressed or bullied by larger, more dominant fish, and a group of similar-sized fish avoids building in a size gap from the start.

Each purchase is one fish, so order a quantity of five or more of your chosen size to start a group. Sizes come and go as fish grow and new ones arrive, so check the size you want when you order.

Sex and appearance

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Discus blue turquoise listing has no sex-guaranteed option. OATA explains that it is difficult to sex discus unless they are in breeding condition, when the female’s ovipositor can be seen, which is one more reason to start with a group.

The photographs show the look this colour form is named for: a turquoise-blue body and fins crossed by fine, wavy orange-brown lines, with a red eye. Gallery images have been digitally enhanced to improve image quality. Natural colour, pattern, size and maturity can vary between live animals.

To compare this colour form with the other discus we keep, browse our discus collection.

Water chemistry comes first

Water quality is the heart of discus keeping. OATA’s discus care sheet says discus require more specific water parameters than many other fish, and that clean, warm, soft, slightly acidic water is optimum for all discus. The best way to achieve it, according to OATA, is regular partial water changes.

These are OATA’s values for discus as a group rather than an optimum measured for this colour form. Treat them as the range to hold steady, with the soft, slightly acidic end as the aim.

Holding the values steady

OATA points out that the larger the aquarium, the more stable its temperature and water quality will be. With discus, stability is worth more than hitting an exact number, and a few habits make it much easier:

• Prepare replacement water in advance so that it matches the aquarium’s temperature before it goes in.
• Keep the hardness and pH of new water close to the aquarium’s own, so a large weekly change does not swing the chemistry.
• Test nitrate as well as ammonia and nitrite. A reading creeping towards 20 mg per litre means the aquarium needs more water changed or less food going in.
• Use a heater and thermometer you trust, and glance at the thermometer at every feed.

Tank-bred discus and harder water

OATA notes that captive-bred discus are the most common in the trade and that tank-bred discus can tolerate harder water than their wild counterparts. Tolerating something is not the same as thriving in it, and OATA is clear that soft, slightly acidic water is still optimum for all discus. OATA also advises asking what conditions discus are being kept in before you buy, then aiming to replicate those conditions at home, so ask us about our water when you order and compare it with yours.

Testing and matching your water

Know your tap water before the fish arrive. Our guide to aquarium water chemistry explains what each test measures and why it matters, and the water parameter matcher lets you compare your own readings with the values above. If your tap water is hard, work out how you will soften it well before delivery day rather than after.

Warmth and tank mates

At 26–30 °C, a discus aquarium runs warmer than many community tanks. That alone rules out a lot of popular fish, and it is one reason OATA lists only a handful of suitable companions. The compatibility tab covers them in detail.

Aquarium size, layout and filtration

Discus are large-bodied fish that live in groups, so aquarium volume and floor space both matter. OATA recommends that each adult discus should have 50 litres of water volume, with plenty of floor space, and gives an aquarium of approximately 300 litres as enough for a shoal of six adults. Five adults at 50 litres each comes to 250 litres, so a group of five needs a big aquarium from the start, not an upgrade later.

OATA’s general rule applies strongly here: buy an aquarium as large as possible, within reason. The larger the aquarium, the more stable its temperature and water quality, and stability is what discus need most.

Substrate

Use fine gravel or sand. OATA explains that this lets discus feed naturally by “blowing” the substrate to uncover food. Coarse or sharp gravel makes that natural behaviour difficult.

Cover and open space

Discus can be shy, and OATA says they benefit from live plant cover in which to hide. It also recommends branches, wood and other ornaments to provide cover. Balance that with open water: given their size and shape, discus need some open space in which to swim together as a group while they explore the aquarium.

• Plant the back and sides to give cover.
• Add branches or wood as vertical structure.
• Keep an open swimming area in the middle and front.
• Leave open patches of sand or fine gravel so the group can forage.

Before you buy: a discus readiness check

Filtration and maturing the aquarium

A filter is always essential. The RSPCA’s aquarium environment guidance explains why: fish release toxic ammonia, and a working biological filter lets beneficial bacteria turn it into nitrite, which is also toxic, and then into nitrate, which is safer. No fish should be kept without a well set-up and maintained filter.

That filter needs time to mature before discus arrive. If this is your first dedicated aquarium, follow our guide to setting up and maturing a first tropical tank before you order. OATA’s advice is to check that ammonia and nitrite are both at zero before adding any fish.

The weekly routine

A discus routine is more demanding than for many tropical fish, and it is the part of discus keeping that decides long-term success. OATA’s maintenance guidance is specific:

• Water changes: a partial water change of 50% at least once every week is strongly recommended.
• Waste removal: use a siphon to take solid waste from the gravel as you change the water.
• Sand: if you use sand, stir the open areas regularly to prevent “dead spots” where waste builds up.
• Testing: test the water regularly, at least once per week, so ammonia and nitrite cannot build up unnoticed.
• New water: treat replacement water with tap water conditioner to remove harmful chlorine or chloramine before it goes into the aquarium.
• Filter: check filters for blockages.

A weekly water change, step by step

1. Test for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and note the readings so you can spot a trend.
2. Prepare the replacement water: treat it with tap water conditioner and bring it to the aquarium’s temperature.
3. Siphon out half of the aquarium water, lifting waste from the gravel and stirring any open sand as you go.
4. Check the filter for blockages while the level is down.
5. Refill gently with the prepared water, then check the temperature once the aquarium has settled.

Cleaning the filter media

If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap. Any chlorine or chloramine present may kill the beneficial bacteria established in the media. Rinse the media lightly in the tank water removed during a water change instead, which keeps the loss of bacteria to a minimum.

Why the routine matters so much

Changing half the water every week sounds like a lot, but it is how OATA suggests you achieve the clean, soft, slightly acidic water discus need. It also helps to keep nitrate under OATA’s limit of 20 mg per litre for discus. Plan the practical side before buying: where the replacement water will come from, how you will match its temperature and hardness to the aquarium, and how long the weekly change will take.

Feeding discus

OATA describes discus as generally carnivorous, eating aquatic invertebrates in the wild. A good discus diet is built on that.

What to feed

• Specialised dried discus food: granules or pellets made for discus, used at least once a day to make sure the fish receive adequate vitamins.
• Frozen or live foods: OATA names beef heart, bloodworm and special “discus mixes” as foods discus appreciate.

How often and how much

Discus have a relatively small stomach, so OATA suggests 2–3 smaller feeds spread through the day rather than one large meal. Give only what the group can eat within a few minutes at each feed.

Take care not to overfeed. Uneaten food builds up and breaks down, releasing toxic waste into the water. Remove anything left over, especially frozen food, before it breaks down.

An example feeding day

OATA’s advice translates into a simple routine. One example that fits it:

• Morning: specialised discus granules or pellets.
• Middle of the day: a small portion of frozen food, such as bloodworm or a discus mix.
• Evening: a second small feed of granules or pellets.

At each feed, give only what the group finishes within a few minutes, and vary the frozen foods through the week so the diet does not rest on one item.

Feeding a group

Watch every fish at feeding time. In a group, the boldest fish tend to eat first, and a fish that is being pushed away from food will lose condition. Several small feeds a day give quieter fish more chances to eat, and a smooth, open area of sand or fine gravel lets the whole group forage together. A discus that stops coming forward for food is worth watching closely, because reduced appetite is one of OATA’s warning signs.

Building and settling a group

OATA describes discus as shoaling fish that should be kept in groups of at least five in the home aquarium, adding that more is better. Discus are social fish, and those kept singly or in too small a group will often become stressed or bullied by larger or more dominant fish. The one exception OATA gives is two discus kept together as an already established breeding pair.

Starting a group

OATA also advises increasing the number of fish in an aquarium slowly, because the filter’s beneficial bacteria need to catch up every time more fish are added and feeding goes up. Put the two pieces of advice together like this:

1. Choose an aquarium sized for the full adult group, not for the fish as they arrive.
2. Mature the filter fully, with ammonia and nitrite reading zero, before any discus arrive.
3. Start the group of five or more together, all of a similar size, so no single fish is left alone or heavily outsized.
4. Leave a clear gap before adding any tank mates, and test the water through those weeks.

Overstocking or stocking too quickly can cause what OATA calls “new tank syndrome”. There are not enough nitrifying bacteria to cope with the extra waste, and the resulting ammonia and nitrite can make fish ill or kill them. With a group of discus, that is the risk to plan around.

Why five rather than two or three

Starting with two or three discus can look like a gentler introduction to the hobby, but it is the arrangement OATA warns against. In too small a group, one fish often ends up on the receiving end of the others’ attention, and a stressed discus hides, loses colour and stops feeding well. A group of five or more gives the fish the company they need as social animals, and it is the minimum OATA gives for a reason. If the aquarium cannot take five adults, a discus aquarium is not the right project for it yet.

Growing on

Because discus are slow growers, a group bought small will spend a long time growing on. Keep water quality high and feeding frequent, and watch that no fish falls behind the others in size or confidence.

Delivery and arrival

Every order is hand-packed by our team and delivered on your confirmed Thursday or Friday date by a licensed live-animal courier. Each fish is hand-bagged in pure oxygen, packed in an insulated poly box and given a heat pack when the weather calls for it. We email you the tracking number and confirmed delivery date so you know exactly when to be in. Our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee page sets out the full terms.

Someone needs to be at the delivery address to receive the parcel, because live fish cannot be left unattended, and the parcel should be opened and inspected the same day it arrives.

Getting ready for the group

• Have the aquarium running at a steady temperature within 26–30 °C, with the filter mature.
• Compare your water with ours beforehand, so the group is not moved into very different chemistry.
• Keep activity around the aquarium calm, with plant cover in place so shy fish have somewhere to go.
• Plan to be at home for the whole delivery window on the confirmed day.

When the parcel arrives

1. Start a continuous unboxing video before opening anything, with the parcel still sealed and the outer box in view.
2. Keep filming in one continuous take as you open it, until the fish can be seen still inside their sealed bags.
3. Float the sealed bags in your aquarium for 20–30 minutes, acclimatising the fish slowly.
4. Release the fish, and never pour the bag water into your aquarium.

If anything has gone wrong, contact us the same day your fish arrive, with your order number and the unboxing video; WhatsApp is the fastest route. We will arrange a replacement or a refund.

The first days

Newly arrived discus can be shy at first, and the plant cover and wood described in the setup section give them somewhere to settle. Offer small feeds, remove anything uneaten, and keep up your water testing. Resist adding further fish until the group is feeding confidently and your readings are stable.

Health checks

OATA’s signs of a healthy fish apply to discus as they do to any species: clear, bright eyes, undamaged fins, intact scales, no ulcerations or bumps, and normal swimming behaviour. Check each fish in the group against that picture at every feed.

Changes worth acting on

• Swimming: hanging at the surface, sitting on the bottom or swimming erratically.
• Colour: turning darker or paler than normal.
• Temperament: a change in aggression, or hiding more than usual.
• Breathing: gill covers moving faster or slower than normal.
• Appearance: white spots, fluffy growths, or loss of fins or scales.
• Condition: gaining or losing body weight.
• Feeding: eating less, or losing interest in food.

If you are concerned about any fish, OATA’s advice is to test your water quality first and then contact your retailer for guidance. Send us your readings, including temperature, pH and nitrate, and describe what you have seen. With discus, a fish that keeps apart from the group, hides more than it used to or turns darker than normal can also be a sign of stress within the group, so check that the group is large enough and that no single fish is being pushed around.

OATA notes that discus can live for many years in a well-matured set-up with good water quality, which is the best argument for building the routine carefully from the start.

Pairs and breeding

Discus have a reputation for dedicated parenting, which Wikipedia lists among the reasons for their popularity. OATA notes that it is sometimes possible to keep two discus on their own if they are already an established breeding pair, and that discus are difficult to sex until they are in breeding condition.

Because sex cannot be chosen when you buy, starting with a group of young fish is the practical route for anyone hoping to see a pair form one day. We do not give breeding instructions for this colour form; the aim of this guide is a healthy, settled group.

Tank mates and temperament

A discus aquarium is built around the discus, and OATA says that, because the aquarium must suit their needs, only a handful of other species will be suitable tank mates. Warm, soft water and a calm atmosphere narrow the choice quickly.

Temperament

Wikipedia highlights the calm behaviour of discus, and OATA notes that they are not as aggressive as some of their close cichlid relatives. The real risk runs the other way: discus kept singly or in too small a group will often become stressed or bullied by larger or more dominant fish. Choose companions that will not compete with them or crowd them at feeding time.

Companions OATA names

• Medium-sized tetras: these can act as the dither fish described below.
• Corydoras catfish: bottom-dwelling companions for the lower part of the aquarium.
• Plecos: OATA lists them among suitable tank mates; choose one whose adult size suits your aquarium.
• Dwarf cichlids: small cichlids; check each species’ water needs against the discus range before buying.

Whatever you choose, check that each species is comfortable at 26–30 °C in soft, slightly acidic water before you buy it, and add tank mates gradually once the discus group has settled.

How dither fish help

A dither fish is a small, active species that swims openly in the aquarium. OATA explains that discus use smaller dither fish as a sign that there are no predators near, and that including them may help discus feel more confident. In practice, a calm group of medium-sized tetras moving about the midwater can encourage a shy discus group to come out of the plants and feed in the open. Choose dither fish that are peaceful, happy in warm, soft water and not so fast or greedy that they take the discus’ food.

What to avoid

• Keeping discus singly or in a group of fewer than five.
• Larger or more dominant fish that could bully discus.
• Species that need cooler or harder water than the discus range above.
• Busy, fast-moving fish that would outcompete discus for food.

Invertebrates

Discus eat aquatic invertebrates in the wild, so small shrimps and similar animals are at risk in a discus aquarium. Treat them as potential food rather than tank mates.

Adding to an established group

If you already keep discus and want to add this colour form, choose fish close in size to your existing group. OATA’s advice to increase numbers slowly applies here too, because each new fish adds to the load on the filter.

Discus questions answered

How big does a blue turquoise discus get?

OATA says adult discus can reach up to 20 cm across, although they are slow growers. That figure covers discus in general, so plan space for adults of that size.

What size aquarium do discus need?

OATA recommends 50 litres of water volume for each adult discus, with plenty of floor space, and gives about 300 litres as the size for a shoal of six adults. Buy as large an aquarium as you reasonably can.

How many blue turquoise discus should I keep together?

Keep at least five, and more is better. OATA explains that discus kept singly or in too small a group will often become stressed or bullied by larger or more dominant fish. Two can sometimes be kept on their own, but only as an established breeding pair.

Are blue turquoise discus suitable for beginners?

They suit a keeper who is ready for specialised care rather than a first aquarium. OATA says discus need more specific water parameters than many fish, and recommends a 50% water change at least once every week in a large, mature aquarium.

What do discus eat?

Discus are generally carnivorous. Offer specialised discus granules or pellets at least once a day, plus frozen or live foods such as beef heart, bloodworm or discus mixes, in 2–3 small feeds a day that the group can finish within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does a blue turquoise discus need?

OATA’s group guidance for discus is 26–30 °C, pH 6.0–7.5, general hardness of 4–12 °dH and carbonate hardness of 3–10 °dKH, with zero ammonia and nitrite and nitrate no higher than 20 mg per litre. Soft, slightly acidic water is best.

Are discus aggressive, and do they nip fins?

Discus are known for calm behaviour, and OATA notes they are not as aggressive as some of their close cichlid relatives. The bigger risk is to the discus themselves, which will often become stressed or bullied if kept alone or in too small a group.

What fish can live with blue turquoise discus?

Only a handful of species suit a discus aquarium. OATA names medium-sized tetras, Corydoras, plecos and dwarf cichlids. Check that any companion is comfortable in warm, soft water, and avoid larger, dominant or fast-feeding fish.

How does a blue turquoise discus arrive alive in the UK?

It is hand-bagged in pure oxygen, packed in an insulated poly box with a heat pack when needed, and delivered by a licensed live-animal courier on your confirmed Thursday or Friday date. Be in to receive it, film a continuous unboxing video from the sealed parcel, float the bag for 20–30 minutes, and contact us the same day with the video and order number if anything is wrong.

References

• WoRMS: Symphysodon Heckel, 1840, for the accepted genus and its place in the cichlid family.
• Wikipedia: Discus (fish), for the genus, its native range in the Amazon basin and the common name pompadour fish.
• OATA: How to look after discus, the UK trade body’s care sheet for water values, group size, aquarium size, maintenance, feeding, health and compatibility across discus as a group.
• RSPCA: fish environment, for filtration and the nitrogen cycle.