Stenopus hispidus - Marine Aquarium Livestock UK

Identify the coral banded shrimp

Stenopus hispidus is a shrimp-like decapod crustacean belonging to the infraorder Stenopodidea. The World Register of Marine Species accepts the species in the family Stenopodidae, giving a clear identity for aquarium planning.

Wikipedia lists coral banded shrimp, banded boxer shrimp and banded cleaner shrimp as common names for the same animal. These names describe its trade identity; the word “cleaner” should not replace a proper feeding plan or a careful compatibility assessment.

Recognise the illustrated form

The gallery shows the characteristic aquarium presentation associated with this animal: alternating red-and-white bands, an elongated body, enlarged pincers and exceptionally long white antennae. Those extended appendages matter when arranging rockwork. Leave clear routes around caves and ledges rather than measuring shelter only against the central body.

The animal is an invertebrate with a segmented body and a hard exterior called an exoskeleton. Like other marine crustaceans, it grows by shedding that exterior. Secure shelter, stable water and restrained stocking therefore matter more than choosing it solely for colour or a common name.

The Wikipedia summary for Stenopus hispidus covers its taxonomic placement and established common names. Follow the marine-crustacean water, feeding and maintenance instructions below when planning its aquarium care.

Understand the purchase choice

One purchase supplies one animal.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Stenopus hispidus listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

Read the gallery correctly

Some gallery images are representative, based on reference photographs of this species, and none shows the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Before choosing this shrimp, compare its needs with the other animals already planned for the aquarium. The main questions are whether the biological filter is established, whether rock shelter is secure, whether marine water values are stable and whether every fish is considered reef-safe. Browse the wider marine inverts collection when comparing different invertebrate choices, but assess each species separately rather than assuming that all shrimp, crabs and lobsters behave alike.

Set the planning baseline before purchase

OATA’s marine-crustacean guidance gives 24–26°C, pH 7.9–8.3 and salinity 1.023–1.026 for the group; these are broad planning values, not a species-specific optimum. It also calls for zero ammonia, zero nitrite, nitrate not exceeding 50 mg per litre, carbonate hardness of 8–12°dKH, calcium of 380–450 ppm and magnesium of 1250–1350 ppm.

Use those figures as the starting operating range, then accommodate any more sensitive reef inhabitants within it. A value that suits the shrimp group is not permission to move another animal outside its own range. Stability across the whole community is the practical goal.

Plan space around function

OATA recommends an aquarium of at least 40 litres for smaller crabs and shrimp, while larger crustaceans need a larger aquarium. Treat 40 litres as a planning floor rather than a complete answer for every animal. Account for the shrimp’s body, long antennae and pincers, the footprint occupied by rock, and the swimming and shelter requirements of every tank mate.

Whatever volume you choose, fit an effective filter and provide live or artificial rock. Rock supplies grazing surfaces and, more importantly here, hiding areas for an animal whose new exoskeleton takes a couple of days to harden after a moult.

Prepare a mature, filtered aquarium

Set up and mature the biological filter before adding the shrimp. Marine livestock increases the waste processed by the aquarium, and the beneficial bacterial population must grow as stocking and feeding rise. Adding too many animals too quickly can leave the filter unable to process the extra waste, producing unhealthy ammonia and nitrite.

The RSPCA’s aquarium filtration guidance explains the core process: ammonia is converted to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate by bacteria living in a working biological filter. For this marine crustacean, the operational targets remain zero ammonia and zero nitrite.

Choose an effective filtration route

OATA identifies several suitable forms of marine filtration: live rock with sufficient water flow, an internal or external filter, or a sump-based filter. Whichever route you use must be established, correctly sized for the whole aquarium and kept free of blockages.

A protein skimmer can support water quality by removing dissolved organic waste before it breaks down into more harmful substances. Treat it as an addition to biological filtration and water changes, not a replacement for either. Clean the skimmer regularly so declining performance does not go unnoticed.

Check readiness before introduction

• Confirm the filter is running correctly: flow should be unobstructed and the media should remain biologically active.
• Test nitrogen waste: ammonia and nitrite must both read 0 mg per litre before the animal enters.
• Check the full marine range: temperature, salinity and pH should already be steady within the planned values.
• Add livestock slowly: allow the bacterial population to respond to each rise in waste and feeding.
• Leave physical capacity: rock, equipment and other inhabitants all reduce the usable space inside the stated aquarium volume.

A larger aquarium can provide more dilution and planning room, but volume cannot compensate for an immature filter. Establish the biological process first, then stock at a pace the test results support.

Use the final readiness check as a complete decision rather than relying on one favourable reading. Zero ammonia with detectable nitrite still means the biological process is not meeting the required target, while correct water chemistry cannot compensate for blocked flow or an unfinished retreat. Proceed only when the filter, water range, shelter and stocking plan are ready together.

Hold the marine water range steady

Run the aquarium at 24–26°C, pH 7.9–8.3 and salinity 1.023–1.026. Check each figure as part of one connected system: topping up evaporation, changing water or adjusting one parameter can affect the others. Make small, controlled corrections rather than allowing repeated swings between the ends of the range.

Give toxic waste priority

Ammonia and nitrite are not acceptable at a low background reading; the target for each is zero. If either appears, pause further stocking, check filtration and reduce the causes of excess waste. Look for uneaten food, restricted filter flow and a recent increase in livestock or feeding.

Nitrate has an upper limit of 50 mg per litre in the marine-crustacean range. Do not use that maximum as a routine target. Regular water changes, controlled feeding, effective filtration and skimmer maintenance all reduce the chance of waste accumulating towards it.

Coordinate a reef community

A reef aquarium may contain animals requiring tighter parameters. Keep the shared aquarium inside the range of every inhabitant, using the most restrictive compatible requirement. For example, a pH value within 7.9–8.3 may suit the crustacean group, but it should only be chosen if it also suits the other animals in the system.

Record test results consistently enough to recognise movement before a limit is crossed. The useful comparison is not only today’s number against a range; it is also today’s number against the aquarium’s recent stable pattern.

Read connected changes together. Rising nitrate alongside uneaten food points towards excess input or insufficient waste removal, while ammonia or nitrite appearing after a livestock addition shows that the filter needs immediate attention. If one result is unexpected, repeat the measurement before adjusting the aquarium, then correct the identified cause in small controlled steps.

Maintain filtration without losing bacteria

Carry out a partial water change of 25% at least once every week. A siphon helps remove solid waste from the substrate before that material breaks down. Match replacement marine water carefully to the aquarium’s planned temperature and salinity so routine maintenance does not create the instability it is meant to prevent.

Clean the filter safely

Check and clean filtration regularly to prevent blockages. When media needs rinsing, use aquarium water removed during the partial water change. Do not rinse biological media under the tap, because chlorine or chloramine may kill part of the beneficial bacterial population.

1. Test or confirm the aquarium’s current operating values.
2. Remove the planned 25% of water and siphon accumulated solid waste.
3. Set aside some removed aquarium water if filter media needs a light rinse.
4. Clean blocked media gently without trying to make mature biological media look new.
5. Service the protein skimmer where fitted so it continues to remove dissolved organic waste effectively.
6. Add correctly prepared replacement water and confirm that equipment has restarted normally.

Use test results to guide the next action

Ammonia or nitrite above zero calls for immediate attention to waste input and biological filtration. A rising nitrate trend calls for closer control of uneaten food, accumulated debris and maintenance. An unusual pH or salinity reading should be checked before making a correction, because correcting a faulty reading can cause a genuine swing.

Good maintenance is especially important for marine crustaceans because even small amounts of ammonia and nitrite can cause stress. Keep the routine simple enough to perform consistently: weekly water change, waste removal, filter inspection, careful media cleaning and regular skimmer care.

Inspect the whole water route while carrying out that routine. A pump may still be running even when debris has reduced flow through media, and a skimmer may remain switched on while accumulated waste reduces its performance. Confirm effective movement after cleaning, check that equipment restarted correctly and remove any solid waste exposed by the work.

Compare the next set of results with the readings taken before maintenance. The aim is not merely to complete a list of tasks but to keep ammonia and nitrite at zero and prevent nitrate moving towards its maximum. If the trend continues in the wrong direction, reassess feeding, trapped debris, filter condition and stocking pace together.

Build shelter for each moult

Marine crustaceans have a hard exoskeleton and shed it as they grow. An empty shell in the aquarium can therefore be the cast exterior from a moult rather than the animal itself. Observe carefully before drawing a conclusion from an empty form.

After shedding, the new exoskeleton takes a couple of days to harden and the animal will often hide during that period. Provide shelter before introduction so it never has to search for protection while soft. Live or artificial rock is essential because it creates enclosed areas and surfaces around which the shrimp can move.

Arrange structure around the animal

• Provide a secure retreat: use stable rockwork that cannot shift when livestock moves around it.
• Leave a usable entrance: account for long antennae, legs and enlarged pincers rather than sizing the opening to body width alone.
• Create more than one route: avoid trapping the shrimp behind a single narrow entrance shared with another inhabitant.
• Keep equipment clear: make sure the retreat does not obstruct filter intakes, water flow or access for maintenance.
• Protect the soft-shell period: screen tank mates for predatory or opportunistic behaviour before they share the aquarium.

Do not force the animal into the open when it hides around a moult. Instead, confirm that water remains within range and watch for the expected return of coordinated movement after the hardening period. A prolonged soft-shell condition, incomplete shedding or difficulty moving belongs in the health-warning checklist rather than being treated as ordinary concealment.

Rock also occupies water volume and floor space. Consider the remaining usable aquarium when judging whether the system provides enough room for the shrimp and every tank mate.

Test the layout before introduction by tracing a clear route from open water to the retreat without moving rock or passing through equipment. Check that the entrance remains usable when the shrimp’s long antennae and pincers are extended. If another inhabitant already occupies or defends that route, create a separate refuge or reconsider the combination before adding the shrimp.

Keep the shelter accessible during routine siphoning and filter work. A retreat that must be dismantled for every water change is difficult to maintain safely, while rock placed against an intake can restrict filtration. The strongest layout combines stable cover, unobstructed flow, usable entrances and practical access for waste removal.

Feed to consumption rather than a fixed clock

Marine crustaceans vary widely in diet. OATA advises that most species are omnivorous and may consume algae, detritus and small meaty items. Use that group routine here by offering variety: nori algae sheets, small frozen foods such as brine shrimp, or suitable pellets.

Do not assume that visible algae, detritus or leftover fish food forms a complete ration. Equally, do not add food simply because a fixed time has arrived. Many crustaceans graze through the day, and the need for extra feeding depends on the natural food already present in the aquarium.

Make each extra feed a measured decision

Overfeeding creates a direct water-quality problem. Uneaten material breaks down and releases waste, increasing the load on the biological filter. The safest routine is a modest portion, observation of whether it is consumed, and adjustment of the next feed from that result.

Use variety without turning every feed into a mixture of every item. Alternating appropriate foods keeps the routine varied while making it easier to see what the shrimp accepts and what remains behind. Continue monitoring ammonia at zero, nitrite at zero and nitrate below its 50 mg per litre maximum as the feeding pattern develops.

Judge the result across feeding and water quality together. Prompt consumption with stable tests supports continuing the modest portion, whereas leftovers or a rising nitrate trend call for less extra food and closer waste removal. If appetite drops, check movement, colour, moulting and the complete marine range before deciding that a different food alone will solve the change.

Acclimatise without adding bag water

Prepare the aquarium before opening the transport container. Confirm that ammonia and nitrite are zero and that temperature, salinity and pH are already within the intended operating range. Rock shelter should be complete and the filter should be running normally.

Follow our delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy: arrange for someone to receive the parcel, acclimatise slowly, float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the animal, and never pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Use this arrival sequence

1. Take the livestock box in promptly rather than leaving a live animal unattended.
2. Check the aquarium and equipment before beginning the 20–30 minute float.
3. Float the bag for the stated period without adding its transport water to the aquarium.
4. Release the shrimp into the prepared marine system while keeping bag water out.
5. Allow immediate access to the rock shelter and keep the first observation calm.

Do not combine arrival with a large maintenance change or a batch of new tank mates. The filter’s bacterial population must respond whenever livestock and feeding increase, so stagger additions and observe the water after each one.

Once released, check coordinated walking or movement, the condition of the antennae, legs, pincers and exoskeleton, and whether the animal can reach shelter. Hiding alone can occur around a moult, but combine behaviour with water tests and physical observations rather than relying on one sign.

Watch for specific health changes

Use a consistent observation routine so a genuine change stands out. Watch movement, colour, temperament, body condition, moulting and interest in food. The purpose is early action on water quality and husbandry, not an attempt to diagnose or medicate from one symptom.

Movement and behaviour

Look for reduced activity, prolonged inactivity, difficulty walking or swimming, loss of coordination, repeated attempts to leave the water or an unusual movement pattern. A change in aggression or substantially more hiding than the animal’s established pattern also deserves attention.

Body and moulting

Check the exoskeleton, limbs, claws, antennae and eyes for damage. Lesions, discolouration, white or fluffy growths, loss of appendages, difficulty moulting, incomplete shedding or a prolonged soft-shell condition are warning signs. Remember that a clean empty exoskeleton may simply be a cast moult; locate and observe the animal before deciding what happened.

Feeding and colour

Turning darker or paler than the normal settled appearance, reduced intake or loss of interest in food can accompany a wider problem. Compare the change with recent water results, feeding input and any new livestock rather than treating colour alone as a diagnosis.

Avoid adding an improvised treatment to the main aquarium. Begin with measured water values, equipment checks and a clear account of what changed.

Use reef safety as the first compatibility screen

OATA advises that marine crustaceans will generally mix with fish considered reef-safe. Fish not considered reef-safe are likely to predate on marine crustaceans and should be avoided. Use that distinction as the first screen, then assess the behaviour, size, feeding method and space needs of the exact fish concerned.

A reef-safe label is a starting point rather than a universal tank-mate guarantee. It does not settle competition for caves, disturbance during a moult or whether another crustacean is opportunistic. Check those questions separately.

Apply a three-part screen

The word “cleaner” in a common name does not make this shrimp immune to predation. A fish that may attack shrimp remains unsuitable regardless of the shrimp’s trade name.

Coral compatibility is a separate question from whether a fish is reef-safe around crustaceans. Plan the complete reef around the tightest water range and the physical needs of every inhabitant. Avoid a broad claim that the shrimp suits every coral, snail, crab or other ornamental shrimp.

Work through the screen in order. A fish that fails the reef-safety check should not progress to space planning, because extra rock or aquarium volume does not remove the stated predation risk. A fish that passes still needs enough room to move without taking over the shrimp’s retreat or preventing it from hiding after a moult.

For another crustacean, inspect both shelter use and opportunistic feeding behaviour. Separate caves improve physical choice but do not guarantee a safe combination. Where the exact interaction remains uncertain, pause the addition and request one stocking and compatibility assessment covering the animals, aquarium volume, rock layout and established water range.

Add livestock at a filter-safe pace

Compatibility includes the aquarium’s biological capacity as well as direct interactions. Every new animal and every increase in feeding raises the load placed on beneficial bacteria. Add livestock slowly so the filter can respond without ammonia or nitrite appearing.

Plan the next addition

1. Confirm water readiness: ammonia and nitrite must be zero, with the remaining marine values stable.
2. Screen predation: avoid fish not considered reef-safe and examine the actual habits of every proposed tank mate.
3. Allocate shelter: make sure the shrimp has a secure retreat that is not already occupied or defended.
4. Check usable space: subtract the footprint of rock and equipment from the nominal aquarium volume.
5. Stagger introductions: observe water and behaviour before adding another animal.

Treat every extra crustacean as a fresh compatibility decision rather than assuming that two shrimp form a pair or that several invertebrates will share a cave. Some lobsters and crabs are opportunistic and may prey on slow-moving aquarium inhabitants, so a general marine-invertebrate label is not enough.

A 40-litre aquarium only reflects OATA’s baseline for smaller crabs and shrimp. It does not automatically have capacity for a shrimp plus several fish, nor does increasing the volume make a predatory combination safe. Use volume, filtration, shelter and behaviour together.

After adding the animal, watch for unusual aggression, increased hiding, appendage damage, difficulty moving or repeated attempts to leave the water. If those signs follow a tank-mate introduction, test the water and review the physical interaction immediately. The right response may be a compatibility change, a water-quality correction or both.

Use the period after each addition as a checkpoint before making the next decision. Confirm that ammonia and nitrite remain at zero, feeding does not leave accumulating waste, and the shrimp can use its shelter without obstruction. A stable result supports continuing the plan slowly; a changed result means pause, identify the cause and restore the aquarium before adding more livestock.

Answer common buyer questions

What is Stenopus hispidus?

Stenopus hispidus is an accepted species in the family Stenopodidae. It is a shrimp-like decapod crustacean also called the coral banded shrimp, banded boxer shrimp or banded cleaner shrimp.

How many Stenopus hispidus does one purchase supply?

One purchase supplies one animal.

How should I plan space for Stenopus hispidus?

Plan around secure rock shelter, long appendages and the needs of the whole aquarium community rather than assuming a particular adult measurement.

What aquarium setup does a coral banded shrimp need?

Use a mature, filtered marine aquarium with secure live or artificial rock shelter. OATA recommends at least 40 litres for smaller crabs and shrimp, with a larger aquarium required as the animal and community need more space.

Can Stenopus hispidus be kept with another crustacean?

Treat each extra crustacean as a separate decision rather than assuming a pair or group will mix. Contact us for a stocking and compatibility assessment of the exact combination.

What water values should I use for Stenopus hispidus?

OATA’s broad group guidance is 24–26°C, salinity 1.023–1.026, pH 7.9–8.3 and carbonate hardness 8–12°dKH, with zero ammonia, zero nitrite and nitrate up to 50 mg per litre.

What should I feed this shrimp?

Use the marine-crustacean routine of varied nori, small frozen items such as brine shrimp, or suitable pellets. Account for natural grazing, offer modest extra food and avoid leaving uneaten material to break down.

How should I acclimatise this shrimp?

Start filming before opening the sealed parcel, keep recording continuously as you open it and show the animal inside the sealed bag. Then float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release, and never pour bag water into the aquarium. Send the video with your order number if making a Live Arrival Guarantee claim.

Which tank mates suit a coral banded shrimp?

Fish considered reef-safe are the starting point for individual screening. Avoid fish not considered reef-safe because they are likely to prey on marine crustaceans, and use caution with opportunistic lobsters or crabs.

Consult the care references

• World Register of Marine Species: accepted scientific name, family and taxonomic placement.
• Wikipedia species summary: established common names and natural-history classification.
• Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association: marine-crustacean water, aquarium, feeding, moulting, maintenance, health and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA: biological filtration and aquarium nitrogen-cycle welfare guidance.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy: receipt and acclimatisation procedure.