Elephant Ear Male Guppy (Poecilia reticulata)

Choose this social livebearer for a prepared aquarium

The Elephant Ear Male Guppy (Poecilia reticulata) is a small Poeciliidae livebearer from Venezuela, Barbados, Trinidad, northern Brazil and the Guianas. This male form reaches 5 cm standard length and suits a prepared beginner who can provide a mature filtered aquarium, mineral-bearing water and a planned social group. Its Elephant Ear name identifies the aquarium trade form; it remains the familiar guppy species rather than a separate species.

FishBase records the native range, Poeciliidae family and 5 cm maximum standard length for male or unsexed fish. Standard length measures the body without the tail fin. The accepted scientific name is also listed as Poecilia reticulata by Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes.

Decide from the adult plan

Our complete Guppy Care Guide explains the conservative 60 cm aquarium and five-fish group policy. Apply both figures as starting screens, then assess the aquarium’s usable footprint, filtration, test results, sex mix and other livestock.

Understand the male offer and representative gallery

Each purchase supplies one male Elephant Ear Guppy at an approximate dispatch size of 3–4 cm. This is a dispatch grade, not the adult planning size, and individual measurements can vary within an approximate grade. The aquarium must therefore be planned around the 5 cm standard-length adult figure and the needs of the complete group.

Sex is guaranteed only when the exact product or selected option explicitly states male or female. This Elephant Ear Male Guppy listing is sold as male.

Elephant Ear is the stated trade-form name for this offer. Colour, tail markings and fin appearance can vary between individual fancy guppies, so choose the fish for its stated identity and care requirements rather than for an exact arrangement of colour shown in one image. The gallery image shows a blue-green guppy with a spotted orange fan tail against blurred green leaves.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Prepare for one fish joining a group

• Adding one male: check that the established guppy group, water and total stocking can accommodate another adult.
• Starting a group: one purchase is one fish, while our group policy is five or more where aquarium capacity and the sex plan allow.
• Planning the layout: provide open swimming room, cover, reliable filtration and a way to separate a fish if persistent pursuit or exclusion develops.
• Comparing related fish: browse the livebearers collection by species identity, sex and adult care needs rather than colour alone.

A male-only plan prevents new mixed-sex mating within that group, but it does not remove the need to watch chasing, feeding access and fin condition. A mixed-sex plan needs space, population planning and the OATA ratio guidance explained below.

Plan the aquarium around the adult size

Plan for an adult size of 5 cm standard length. This is the FishBase maximum recorded for male or unsexed Poecilia reticulata and is the figure used throughout this profile because the offer is male. The approximate 3–4 cm dispatch grade describes the fish at dispatch rather than its finished size.

Seriously Fish lists 6 cm standard length, a 45 × 30 cm base and approximately 41 litres as its species reference. That 6 cm figure differs from the male or unsexed FishBase figure, so retain a margin rather than fitting the aquarium closely around the smaller measurement.

Use length, volume and biological capacity together

Our conservative policy uses a mature, filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long for one small guppy group. FishBase also gives a 60 cm aquarium length and a group of five or more. OATA gives at least 45 litres for a small group of smaller livebearers, while Seriously Fish gives approximately 41 litres with a 45 × 30 cm base. These are planning references, not fish-per-litre permissions.

A nominal volume cannot show swimming length, established biological capacity or how much space other animals already use. A 60-litre aquarium can be a candidate only when it is also about 60 cm long, mature, filtered, suitably furnished and not already crowded. More water can improve stability, but it does not create an automatic entitlement to add more fish.

Keep stable mineral-bearing water within the routine range

Keep this guppy at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH. Tropical Fish Co uses 22–28°C as its routine display range inside the species ranges from FishBase and Seriously Fish. The pH and hardness figures are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance. OATA’s 20–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 8–18 dGH figures are group guidance, not a species-specific optimum.

Test the aquarium water itself rather than relying on the heater dial, room temperature or a regional description of tap water. Use our water chemistry guide to understand each test, then compare measured values with the range through the water matcher.

Change conditions deliberately

Dechlorinate replacement tap water and match it gradually to the aquarium. Do not chase a target pH with abrupt corrections. Seriously Fish describes the guppy as a hard-water fish that may manage in soft or acidic conditions but should be maintained long term in moderately hard or harder water.

Guppies also occur in brackish environments, but that does not make routine salt necessary. Add salt or minerals only for a measured purpose after checking the needs of every fish, invertebrate and plant sharing the aquarium.

Mature the filter before adding the group

Use a well-established biological filter and confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite before adding the guppy. The RSPCA explains that biological filtration supports bacteria that convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to safer nitrate. Clear water alone does not show that this process is working.

Prepare the aquarium before the fish arrives. Our first tropical aquarium guide covers the practical sequence for setting up, maturing and testing a new system without using livestock to establish the filter.

Prove biological readiness with tests

• Test ammonia and nitrite repeatedly rather than judging maturity from the number of days the aquarium has been running.
• Confirm stable temperature, pH and hardness in the filled aquarium.
• Add fish gradually so the bacterial population can adjust as waste and feeding increase.
• Check the filter for blocked intakes, reduced output or interrupted power.
• Retest promptly after a filter failure, major cleaning or unexplained change in breathing and behaviour.

Choose filtration for the aquarium’s actual volume and livestock while keeping the flow comfortable. Seriously Fish gives four to five aquarium turnovers per hour for its approximately 41-litre reference setup, equivalent to a filter rating of about 165–205 litres per hour. Media condition, head height and obstruction can affect real flow, so observe the outlet and test water rather than relying only on the box rating.

Never use extra fish as a test of whether a filter is mature. Rising ammonia or nitrite can make fish ill or kill them, and adding more livestock increases the waste load precisely when biological capacity is inadequate. If either reading is detectable, stop additions and correct the water-quality problem.

Provide open swimming room and gentle distributed flow

Arrange the aquarium with open swimming room, planted or furnished edges and quiet places where a fish can leave another’s line of sight. Seriously Fish describes a planted aquarium with floating vegetation as appreciated and says strong currents should be avoided. Keep enough open water for the group to move and feed without forcing every fish through the same narrow route.

Judge flow from the fish’s movement

• Suitable flow: fish can hold position, cross the aquarium, feed and rest without continuous effort.
• Flow needs changing: fish are repeatedly swept from one area, avoid the outlet or struggle to reach food.
• Useful adjustment: spread the return flow, redirect the outlet or use plants and furnishings to create calmer areas.
• Essential safeguard: keep filtration and surface movement working while reducing a concentrated current.

Place live plants where they provide cover without filling the entire swimming footprint. OATA also permits suitable plastic plants and ornaments when live plants are not used. Choose smooth furnishings that do not create obvious snagging points, and check narrow gaps where a small fish could become trapped.

Cover should offer several routes rather than one defended cave or corner. Watch how each fish uses the layout after a new arrival or rearrangement. Persistent hiding, cornering, repeated pursuit or exclusion from food means the social plan needs intervention; adding more decoration without checking the result is not enough.

Use a secure aquarium cover and check openings around cables and filter pipes. Maintain clear access to the surface, and keep the filter intake safe for the fish in the aquarium. If fry are deliberately being raised in another planned setup, assess intake protection and filtration for their smaller size as a separate decision.

Feed a complete omnivore diet in measured portions

Use an appropriately sized, nutritionally complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple. FishBase records wild guppies feeding on zooplankton, small insects and detritus, while Seriously Fish describes wild fish as primarily insectivorous and aquarium strains as accepting most foods. Choose a staple that covers routine nutrition, then add compatible invertebrate and algal variety.

OATA recommends small live or frozen items such as daphnia, small bloodworm or tubifex as variety. These additions should complement the complete staple rather than replace it. Use biosecure foods intended for aquarium animals and select pieces small enough for the fish to swallow comfortably.

Use one controlled daily feed

OATA advises feeding once a day and offering only what the fish can eat within a few minutes. Begin with a small measured portion, watch every fish and stop before uneaten food accumulates. Guppies can approach food eagerly, but active feeding behaviour is not permission to keep adding food.

Observe swallowing rather than merely seeing food enter the aquarium. A fish that repeatedly misses food, hangs away from the group or loses body condition needs closer assessment of competition, mouth-sized food, water quality and health.

Overfeeding increases uneaten waste and fish waste, placing extra demand on the biological filter. If ammonia, nitrite or nitrate rises, review portion size, stocking and maintenance together instead of using reduced feeding as the only response.

Maintain the water and filter with a weekly routine

At least once every week, change 25% of the aquarium water. OATA recommends this frequency and amount, alongside water testing at least once per week. A siphon can remove solid waste from the substrate while water is removed.

Follow a repeatable maintenance sequence

1. Observe swimming, breathing, fins and feeding before disturbing the aquarium.
2. Test ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and temperature, and record unusual results.
3. Siphon waste and remove 25% of the water.
4. Treat replacement tap water with conditioner to remove chlorine or chloramine.
5. Add replacement water gradually while avoiding an abrupt temperature or chemistry change.
6. Confirm that the heater, filter intake and outlet are working afterwards.

Check the filter for blockages. If reusable filter media needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap. Rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change so fewer beneficial bacteria are lost. Avoid replacing all established biological media together.

A weekly schedule is a baseline rather than permission to ignore conditions between maintenance days. Test immediately after a filter interruption or when fish show surface gasping, unusual swimming, reduced feeding or a sudden behavioural change. Increased stocking, fry or heavy feeding can also require closer monitoring.

Follow the arrival and acclimatisation sequence

Prepare and test the mature aquarium before the parcel is received. The arrival steps below come from the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy.

1. Receive the parcel in person; live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, with the outer box visible.
3. Open the parcel on the same day in one continuous take and show the fish inside the sealed bag before anything is disturbed.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.

Film every delivery from the sealed parcel onward. Keep the order number and continuous video, and report any concern on the same day so the condition in the unopened parcel and sealed bag can be assessed.

Check the aquarium separately

Confirm 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0, 9–18 dGH, zero ammonia and zero nitrite before release. The Tropical Fish Co guppy care guidance sets these aquarium checks. Do not begin rearranging an unsuitable aquarium after the fish has arrived.

After release, observe orientation, swimming control, breathing and whether the newcomer can move away from other fish. Test the water promptly if it gasps at the surface, loses balance or remains unable to settle. Persistent pursuit or immediate fin damage requires the prepared separation route rather than waiting for the fish to become exhausted.

During the first week, inspect the fish at each feed. Confirm that it swallows food, crosses the aquarium normally and can rest without being repeatedly displaced. Record any change in appetite, colour, breathing, balance or fin condition so that a developing problem is easier to describe accurately.

Respond to health and behaviour changes early

Check the fish daily for steady swimming, regular breathing, open undamaged fins, a normal body profile and consistent feeding. The RSPCA’s fish health guidance identifies changes in behaviour, appearance and feeding as reasons to investigate water quality and seek appropriate help.

Do not select salt, heat or medication from one symptom. Similar signs can arise from water-quality failure, injury, social pressure or disease, and a poorly chosen treatment can delay the correct response. Record the water values, recent maintenance, new livestock, food and the timing of visible signs.

Use a separate quarantine system

The MSD Veterinary Manual recommends at least 30 days of quarantine, with longer isolation where indicated. Use dedicated equipment, biologically supported filtration and repeated water testing. A small uncycled container is not a safe quarantine system.

Keep the quarantine temperature and water chemistry suitable for the guppy, and avoid sharing nets, siphons or wet equipment with the display aquarium. Observation should include appetite, breathing, swimming, fins, skin and waste, not merely whether the fish remains alive.

For diagnosis and treatment in the UK, use the OATA fish-vet directory. Veterinary support is particularly important when signs progress, several fish are affected or water correction does not resolve the problem.

Build the social group before choosing companions

Keep guppies in a social group rather than as permanently solitary fish. FishBase gives aquarium keeping in groups of five or more, and Tropical Fish Co adopts five or more as its conservative policy where aquarium capacity and the sex plan allow. OATA suggests at least three guppies or mollies, with two females to each male in a mixed-sex group.

Choose the sex plan deliberately

A ratio does not guarantee that every fish will be left undisturbed. Seriously Fish describes males as vigorous in their pursuit of females, while the Tropical Fish Co guide also warns that repeated pursuit, hiding, missed feeding or fin damage requires intervention. Provide sight breaks and enough usable space, then judge the actual behaviour.

This offer supplies a male, so it must be counted as a male in any mixed-sex plan. Guppies give birth to live young, and Seriously Fish describes aquarium breeding as easy. Decide how fry would be housed and responsibly rehomed before combining sexes rather than treating unexpected young as a filtration or stocking problem later.

Do not add unrelated community fish to substitute for a guppy group. Each social species needs its own appropriate number, and all those adults must fit within the same aquarium footprint and biological capacity.

Screen every companion for water, space and fin safety

A quiet community can work when every species overlaps at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH and the aquarium accommodates all adult sizes and social groups. Seriously Fish names other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and tetras as community candidates. Treat each as a candidate rather than a universal promise.

Avoid fin-nipping species

Avoid fin-nipping species. Seriously Fish specifically says not to keep guppies with tiger barbs or serpae tetras, while OATA says guppies should not be kept with species that might nip their fins. This exclusion remains in place even when temperature and pH overlap.

Before combining species, compare adult size, temperature, pH, hardness, activity, feeding method, required group size and usable footprint. Watch whether every animal can reach food and refuge. Keep a separation plan ready because compatibility can change as fish mature or the group composition changes.

Keep guppies and Endlers distinct when line identity matters

Endler’s livebearer is the separately described species Poecilia wingei. Its formal description is available through the 2005 species paper, and Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes lists it as valid. Hybridisation with Poecilia reticulata is possible, so avoid mixing documented lines intended to remain pure and never represent hybrid descendants as pure examples of either species.

Invertebrates require the same screening. “Adult invertebrates” is too broad for a compatibility promise, and the Tropical Fish Co guide warns that small shrimp or young may be eaten. Assess the exact invertebrate’s adult and juvenile sizes, water needs and escape cover before combining it with guppies.

Get direct answers to common buyer questions

How big does an Elephant Ear Male Guppy get?

An Elephant Ear Male Guppy reaches 5 cm standard length according to FishBase’s male or unsexed figure. Standard length excludes the tail fin, so plan the aquarium around the adult body size and allow additional room for the flowing tail.

What size aquarium does an Elephant Ear Male Guppy need?

Use a mature filtered aquarium at least 60 cm long under Tropical Fish Co’s conservative group policy. Seriously Fish gives approximately 41 litres with a 45 × 30 cm base, while OATA gives at least 45 litres for a small group of smaller livebearers; length, filtration, tests and total stocking must also pass.

How many Elephant Ear Male Guppies should I keep?

Keep five or more guppies where aquarium capacity and the sex plan allow, following the FishBase group figure and Tropical Fish Co policy. OATA’s guppy-and-molly guidance suggests at least three, but the shop uses the more conservative five-fish screen.

Is an Elephant Ear Male Guppy suitable for beginners?

An Elephant Ear Male Guppy can suit a prepared beginner and has an easy store care rating. It still needs a mature filtered aquarium, zero ammonia and nitrite, tested mineral-bearing water, a social plan and weekly maintenance.

What does an Elephant Ear Male Guppy eat?

Feed an appropriately sized complete omnivore flake or granule as the staple, with compatible invertebrate and algal variety. OATA advises one daily feed limited to what the fish can eat within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does it need?

Keep it at 22–28°C, pH 7.0–8.0 and 9–18 dGH. Tropical Fish Co uses the temperature range, while pH and hardness are the overlap of FishBase, Seriously Fish and OATA; ammonia and nitrite must remain at 0 mg/l.

Is this fish aggressive, and will it nip fins?

Seriously Fish describes the guppy as very peaceful, although courtship or pursuit can still require intervention. Avoid fin-nipping species such as tiger barbs and serpae tetras, and separate fish if persistent chasing, exclusion or damage develops.

What kinds of fish or invertebrates can live with it?

Other livebearers, rasboras, corydoras, small loricariids and non-nipping tetras are candidates after matching water, adult size, group needs and space. Small shrimp or young may be eaten, so no broad invertebrate group can be promised as compatible.

How does an Elephant Ear Male Guppy arrive alive in the UK?

Start filming the sealed parcel before opening it, keeping the outer box visible and continuing until the fish is shown inside the sealed bag. Tropical Fish Co’s delivery policy says fish are hand-bagged in pure oxygen inside an insulated poly box; receive the parcel in person, open it the same day and float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.

Check the public identity, care and welfare references

• FishBase: Poecilia reticulata — identity, family, native range, male size, environmental range, wild diet and aquarium notes.
• Seriously Fish: Poecilia reticulata — aquarium dimensions, water conditions, feeding and compatibility.
• OATA: How to look after guppies and mollies — group husbandry, feeding and maintenance.
• RSPCA: Fish environment — filtration and biological waste processing.
• RSPCA: Fish health and welfare — health observations and escalation.
• MSD Veterinary Manual: Management of aquarium fish — quarantine and biosecurity.
• OATA: Find a fish vet — UK fish-vet directory.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes: Poecilia reticulata — accepted scientific name.
• Description of Poecilia wingei — formal species description.
• Eschmeyer’s Catalog of Fishes: Poecilia wingei — current valid status.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy — packing, receipt, video and acclimatisation procedure.