Pink Ramshorn Snail (Planorbella duryi)

Decide whether this snail suits your aquarium

The Pink Ramshorn Snail (Planorbella duryi) is an air-breathing freshwater gastropod in Planorbidae, the ram’s-horn snail family. Wikipedia describes the species as endemic to Florida and frequently found in home aquariums. It suits a keeper prepared to provide a mature, filtered freshwater aquarium, measure water quality and keep it away from animals that eat snails.

WoRMS accepts Planorbella duryi as the scientific name. Seminole rams-horn is another common name for the species, while Pink Ramshorn Snail identifies the pink aquarium form offered here.

Keep the aquarium at 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 4–18°dH. OATA’s freshwater shrimp and snail sheet gives these figures as group guidance, together with 3–15°dKH, zero ammonia and zero nitrite. It recommends at least 10 litres for a group of small freshwater snails and says larger species will require approximately 20 litres. Use approximately 20 litres as the conservative starting plan for this snail, then increase the aquarium size when fish or additional livestock share the system.

For growth planning, OATA says popular aquarium snails are unlikely to grow larger than 5 cm. Treat that as a conservative space-planning ceiling for the wider aquarium-snail group rather than a predicted adult length for an individual. The dispatch measurements shown with this offer describe the snail when sent and should not be used as the aquarium’s long-term space limit.

Choose the supplied size with adult planning in mind

One purchase supplies one live snail. Use the live size selector to choose either 1–1.5 cm or 2–2.5 cm. These measurements are dispatch sizes: the first choice supplies a smaller snail, while the second supplies a larger snail at the time it is sent. The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size.

Choose between the two labels by the size you want supplied, not by reducing the long-term aquarium plan. Both sizes need the same mature filter, water-quality checks, copper precautions and companion screening. A smaller dispatch size does not make an immature or unfiltered container suitable, and a larger dispatch size does not remove the need for gradual introduction.

Read the offer correctly

• 1–1.5 cm: one live snail within that dispatch range.
• 2–2.5 cm: one live snail within that dispatch range.
• Purchase unit: one animal, not a group or pack.
• Long-term plan: base space and filtration on the care guidance, not the measurement at dispatch.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Pink Ramshorn Snail listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Visual differences between the two gallery scenes do not change the identity, quantity or care requirements. Use the selector label to decide the supplied measurement and the written care guidance to decide whether your aquarium is ready. If you are comparing this animal with another freshwater mollusc, browse the current aquarium snail collection and compare each animal’s own compatibility and water guidance before choosing.

Set water targets before the snail arrives

Keep the water at 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and general hardness of 4–18°dH. Carbonate hardness should remain within 3–15°dKH. Test the aquarium rather than relying on how clear the water looks: clear water can still contain ammonia, nitrite or an unsuitable pH.

Measure the normal nitrate level in the tap water used for changes, then compare it with the aquarium. For example, if that tap water measures 10 mg per litre nitrate, the aquarium should not exceed 30 mg per litre. The comparison matters because OATA expresses the limit as an increase above the normal tap-water level rather than as one fixed aquarium reading.

Use our aquarium water chemistry guide to understand what each test measures. Once you have current results, the water matcher can help you compare them with the stated ranges. Write the results down so that a later change in activity, feeding or appearance can be checked against an actual trend.

Act on the result, not a guess

• If ammonia or nitrite is detectable, delay adding the snail and restore both to zero.
• If temperature, pH or hardness is outside the stated range, correct the aquarium gradually before introduction.
• If nitrate is rising towards the stated limit, complete the normal conditioned-water change and review feeding.
• If readings change sharply between tests, find the cause before adding more livestock.

Consistency matters alongside the numerical range. Avoid making large, unmeasured adjustments merely to reach a preferred point within it. A measured value that remains stable and inside the guidance is more useful than repeated changes that move the aquarium from one end of the range to the other.

Build around a mature filter and stable space

Use a mature aquarium of approximately 20 litres or more as the conservative starting plan, and provide additional space when fish or other livestock share it. OATA recommends at least 10 litres for a group of small freshwater shrimp or snails and says larger species will require approximately 20 litres; using the larger category gives more room for stable temperature and water quality.

A filter is always essential. OATA requires filtration for freshwater shrimp and snail aquariums, while the RSPCA explains the biological filter cycle: beneficial bacteria convert toxic ammonia to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate. Maturation gives this bacterial population time to establish before the animal and its food add more waste.

Prepare and mature the aquarium before arranging livestock. Our shrimp-keeping guide explains how to prepare and mature an aquarium before livestock arrives. A newly filled container is not mature simply because the water is conditioned or the filter is running; confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite with tests.

Provide the essential structure

• Fit a filter that can run continuously and check it for blockages.
• Use aquarium gravel or sand on the base.
• Add live plants where practical to provide cover and aquarium surfaces.
• If live plants are not used, provide plastic plants and suitable ornaments such as plant pots or model caves.
• Leave enough accessible space to observe the snail’s activity and feeding response.

A larger aquarium is easier to keep stable because temperature and dissolved waste change less abruptly. This does not remove the need to test or maintain it, but it gives the keeper more time to notice and correct a developing problem. When fish are included, increase the volume beyond the snail-only starting plan because every additional animal adds waste and affects the filter’s workload.

Before introduction, confirm that the filter is operating, the aquarium is within the stated water ranges, and ammonia and nitrite are zero. Add livestock slowly afterwards. Beneficial bacteria need time to increase as the number of animals and the amount of food increase; adding too much too quickly can cause new tank syndrome and unhealthy ammonia or nitrite.

Feed the grazer without overloading the water

Let the snail graze algae in the aquarium and supplement that grazing with algae wafers or commercial freshwater shrimp pellets. OATA describes freshwater shrimp and snails as generally herbivorous algae grazers and recommends these prepared foods to make sure they receive enough to eat.

Feed two or three times a week. Offer only an amount that can be managed without leaving food to decay, and leave each pellet or wafer for at least 30 minutes so the snail has time to reach it and feed. After that feeding window, remove uneaten material before it breaks down into waste.

Keep to two or three feeds a week so that prepared food supplements the snail’s grazing without building up as uneaten waste. Feeding prepared food every time you see the snail does not measure what it has already grazed, and excess food can release toxic waste as it decomposes. Portion size therefore needs to match both the individual’s response and the aquarium’s test results.

Use a repeatable feeding check

1. Choose one suitable wafer or pellet rather than mixing several foods at once.
2. Add a small measured portion on one of the scheduled feeding days.
3. Allow at least 30 minutes for the snail to feed.
4. Remove what remains and record whether the portion was too large.
5. Adjust the next portion while keeping the two-or-three-times-weekly schedule.

Do not use food as a substitute for aquarium maturity or water maintenance. Prepared food can supplement grazing, but it also increases the load on the biological filter. If ammonia or nitrite becomes detectable, stop adding livestock, address the water quality and review how much food is entering the aquarium.

Keep water clean with a weekly routine

Complete a 25% partial water change at least once every week. Test ammonia and nitrite at least weekly as well, and continue checking the other stated values often enough to recognise a change from the aquarium’s normal pattern.

Treat replacement tap water with a suitable conditioner before adding it to remove harmful chlorine or chloramine. Match the replacement water carefully to the aquarium routine and avoid using an unmeasured change to force the system towards a different value. Regular partial changes are intended to remove accumulated waste while preserving stability.

Follow the same sequence each week

1. Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before maintenance.
2. Check temperature, pH and hardness against the stated guidance.
3. Remove 25% of the aquarium water.
4. Use a siphon to remove solid waste from the gravel where needed.
5. Treat the replacement water with tap-water conditioner before adding it.
6. Check the filter for blockages and confirm normal operation.
7. Record the results so that the next weekly test has a comparison point.

If the filter needs cleaning, do not run it under the tap. Rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during the partial water change. Chlorine or chloramine in tap water may kill the filter’s beneficial bacteria, and rinsing in removed aquarium water reduces the amount of bacteria lost.

A larger emergency clean is not a replacement for this routine. Weekly testing makes gradual deterioration visible before it becomes severe, while regular partial changes remove waste without dismantling the biological filter. The combination of measured feeding, a mature filter and repeated maintenance is what keeps ammonia and nitrite at zero.

Protect the snail from copper and spot health changes

Never expose this snail to copper. OATA warns that freshwater shrimp and snails are very sensitive to copper and will die if exposed even to low levels. Check every medicine, algaecide and other aquarium treatment before use, and use only products that are explicitly safe for invertebrates.

Do not assume that a treatment is safe because it is intended for freshwater fish. Read the label for active ingredients and invertebrate warnings before anything enters the aquarium. The same check applies when several products are used in sequence, because the snail remains exposed to whatever enters its water.

Watch for changes from normal

• Increased inactivity, restlessness or other unusual activity
• A darker or paler colour than normal for that individual
• More hiding than usual
• White spots, discolouration, lesions or abnormal growths
• Visible damage to the body or shell
• Abnormal swelling or a noticeable change in condition
• Reduced feeding or complete loss of interest in food

One observation does not identify a cause, so start with the measurable risks. Test ammonia and nitrite immediately, compare temperature, pH and hardness with the normal log, and review any recent treatment, water change or feeding change. Confirm that the filter is operating and remove uneaten food.

Avoid adding medication merely because activity changes. First establish the water readings and confirm that any proposed product is safe for invertebrates. If the change persists or physical damage appears, contact us with the water results, recent maintenance details and a clear description of what has changed.

Receive and settle the snail in the right order

Prepare the receiving aquarium before the parcel arrives. Confirm that the filter is mature and operating, ammonia and nitrite are zero, and the water remains within 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and 4–18°dH. Do not begin opening the parcel while still deciding where the animal will go.

Follow the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy in this order:

1. Start filming before the parcel is opened, showing the parcel still sealed and the outer box visible.
2. Open the parcel on the same day it arrives in one continuous take.
3. Show the snail still inside the sealed bag so its condition can be seen before anything is disturbed.
4. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the snail.
5. Release the animal without pouring the bag water into the aquarium.
6. If anything has gone wrong, contact us the same day with the order number and continuous unboxing video.

Someone must be at the delivery address to receive the parcel, because live animals cannot be left unattended. The animal is hand-bagged in pure oxygen and placed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when the weather calls for it. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel.

Make the first introduction controlled

OATA advises increasing the number of freshwater shrimp or snails slowly because the beneficial bacteria in a mature filter need to increase as livestock and feeding increase. After release, do not turn one new addition into a larger stocking change. Let the existing filter respond to this animal and its feeding before adding more livestock.

Observe whether the snail begins normal activity and remains responsive, but do not compensate for a quiet arrival by immediately adding extra food. Transport and introduction are changes in themselves. Keep to the established water and feeding routine, remove any uneaten food after the normal feeding window and test the aquarium if activity or feeding causes concern.

Keep the unboxing recording and order details while you assess the arrival. The continuous sequence matters because it shows the sealed parcel, opening and animal in the bag before release. Complete the filming first, then float the bag for 20–30 minutes and release the snail without pouring the bag water into the aquarium.

Use the first month to confirm the setup works

Use the first week to establish the snail’s normal activity, appearance and feeding response in your aquarium. Individual behaviour and appearance can vary, so make comparisons with the same animal over time rather than expecting every snail to look or act identically.

First-week checkpoints

• After introduction: confirm that the filter continues to operate and the water remains within range.
• Before the first feed: observe whether the snail is active and responsive.
• During feeding: allow at least 30 minutes before deciding the food has been ignored.
• After feeding: remove leftovers and record the portion offered.
• By the weekly maintenance day: test ammonia and nitrite and complete the 25% partial water change.

Zero ammonia and zero nitrite are the decisive first-week readings. A detectable result means the filter is not keeping pace with the waste entering the aquarium. Address that water-quality problem and delay any further livestock increase.

First-month checkpoints

• Compare weekly temperature, pH, hardness and nitrate results for a trend.
• Check whether food portions are being consumed without persistent leftovers.
• Look for a change in colour, condition, activity, hiding or interest in food.
• Confirm that filter flow has not fallen because of a blockage.
• Review every treatment used during the month for invertebrate safety and copper content.

Respond to patterns rather than repeatedly changing the aquarium after one quiet period. If activity falls at the same time as ammonia, nitrite or nitrate rises, act on the measured water problem. If a change follows a new treatment, check its label immediately. If feeding remains normal and water values remain stable, continue the established routine instead of increasing food.

At the end of the month, the aquarium should have a clear maintenance record: weekly tests, weekly 25% changes, measured feeding two or three times a week and no copper exposure. That record gives you a reliable baseline for deciding whether the aquarium can support any additional livestock.

Screen every companion for predation risk

Avoid pufferfish, loaches and any other fish known to eat snails. OATA specifically names pufferfish and loaches as examples of fish that should not be mixed with snails. Assassin snails prey on other snail species, so do not keep them with this snail.

Freshwater snails are generally compatible with many aquarium species, but the decision must be made animal by animal. The main screening question is whether the proposed companion can eat the snail. A general community label is not enough because individual species within a broad aquarium category can have very different diets.

Use this companion screen

1. Identify the proposed companion precisely rather than relying on a shop category such as community fish.
2. Check whether that animal eats snails or is described as predatory.
3. If it is a pufferfish, loach or known snail eater, do not combine it with this snail.
4. If its response to snails is unclear, treat the combination cautiously rather than assuming compatibility.
5. Confirm that both animals can share the same temperature, pH and hardness before considering the aquarium suitable.
6. Increase livestock slowly so the mature filter can adjust to the extra waste and feeding.

Do not move an existing snail into a predator aquarium as an experiment. Companion uncertainty is resolved before mixing, not by seeing whether an attack occurs. The snail also needs access to food without extra portions being left to decay, so the companion’s feeding routine must fit the same water-quality plan.

Choose a stocking pace the filter can support

This snail has no social group requirement. OATA states that snails are not social creatures, so one can be kept without adding companions for social reasons. Choose additional snails only when the aquarium has enough space, stable water and biological filtration for the extra waste and feeding.

Add livestock slowly. Every increase in animal numbers and food requires the beneficial bacteria in the mature filter to process more waste. Adding several changes close together makes it harder to identify which addition caused a rise in ammonia, nitrite or nitrate.

Apply the rule to common plans

Aquarium capacity is not decided by water volume alone. Filter maturity, current livestock, feeding amount and weekly test results all determine whether the system can absorb another addition. Approximately 20 litres is the conservative starting plan for the snail, and OATA says the aquarium will need to be larger when fish are also included.

Before any increase, check the previous week’s ammonia, nitrite and nitrate results. Confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite, complete the normal maintenance routine and make only one considered stocking change. Afterwards, keep feeding measured and watch the next set of results rather than assuming the filter adjusted immediately.

When a proposed companion is not one of the clearly named avoid groups, contact us before combining the animals if its diet, water range or response to snails remains unclear. Provide the proposed species name, aquarium volume and current water readings so the assessment is based on the actual combination.

Get clear answers before you decide

How big does a Pink Ramshorn Snail get?

Use 5 cm only as a conservative space-planning ceiling. OATA says popular aquarium snails are unlikely to grow larger than 5 cm, so plan space and companions for a snail up to that size rather than the size supplied.

What size aquarium does a Pink Ramshorn Snail need?

Use approximately 20 litres as a conservative starting plan. OATA recommends at least 10 litres for a group of small freshwater snails and says larger species will require approximately 20 litres; increase the volume when fish share the aquarium.

How many Pink Ramshorn Snails should I keep together?

One can be kept without companions because OATA states that snails are not social creatures. Add any further livestock slowly so the mature biological filter can adjust to increased waste and feeding.

Is a Pink Ramshorn Snail suitable for beginners?

Choose it only if you can mature a filtered aquarium, keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, test the water at least once a week, complete a 25% water change at least once every week and prevent exposure to copper or snail-eating companions.

What does a Pink Ramshorn Snail eat?

OATA advises algae grazing supplemented with algae wafers or commercial freshwater shrimp pellets. Feed two or three times a week, allow at least 30 minutes for feeding and remove uneaten food.

What temperature and pH does this snail need?

Keep it at 17–27°C and pH 6.5–8.0, with general hardness of 4–18°dH. OATA gives these values as freshwater shrimp and snail group guidance.

Is it aggressive or does it nip fins?

Treat it as a generally herbivorous algae grazer rather than a fin-nipping fish. OATA describes freshwater snails as generally compatible with most aquarium species, but every companion must be screened for snail predation.

What kinds of animals can this snail live with?

Consider non-predatory aquarium species that cannot eat snails and share its water requirements. Avoid pufferfish, loaches, assassin snails and any other fish known to eat snails.

How does it arrive alive in the UK?

For every delivery, start filming before opening the parcel, showing it sealed with the outer box visible, and continue in one take through opening and showing the snail inside the sealed bag. It is hand-bagged in pure oxygen, placed in an insulated poly box with a heat pack when the weather calls for it, and carried by a licensed live-animal courier. Someone must receive the parcel; float the bag for 20–30 minutes before release.

Check the public references

• WoRMS: accepted scientific name and Planorbidae family placement for Planorbella duryi.
• Wikipedia: air-breathing freshwater gastropod identity, Seminole rams-horn common name and endemic Florida range.
• OATA: freshwater shrimp and snail water values, aquarium setup, feeding, maintenance, copper safety, introduction and compatibility.
• RSPCA: biological filtration and the conversion of ammonia through nitrite to nitrate.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy: packing, receipt, unboxing video, bag-floating and Live Arrival Guarantee procedure.