
Chocolate Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)
18–26°C · pH 6.5–8 · 30L

Colourful Pink Ramshorn Snail for mature planted aquariums, shrimp tanks and peaceful communities. Natural grazer with shell-health care notes.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Photos are AI-enhanced, so the animal may show subtle colour or marking differences.
Planorbella duryi
Pink Ramshorn Snail are a shoaling species — they need 6+ to feel safe and show their full colour.
Colourful Pink Ramshorn Snail for mature planted aquariums, shrimp tanks and peaceful communities. Natural grazer with shell-health care notes.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Photos are AI-enhanced, so the animal may show subtle colour or marking differences.
Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors
The Pink Ramshorn Snail, Planorbella duryi, is a small, flat-coiled freshwater aquarium snail with a soft pink shell and a steady, useful grazing habit. It is best known in the hobby as a colourful ramshorn snail for planted tanks, shrimp aquariums and peaceful community setups where a visible clean-up crew is useful but a large, disruptive snail would be too much. This is not a fish and it should not be treated like one: it is an air-breathing freshwater gastropod in the family Planorbidae, with a planispiral shell that grows in a disc shape rather than a tall cone.
This listing is for live pink ramshorn aquarium snails selected for active movement, intact shell edges and normal grazing behaviour. The current live size options are shown in the product selector, and both size bands are suitable for mature aquariums with stable water, gentle filtration and enough natural biofilm to browse. Pink Ramshorns are popular because they add movement, pastel colour and practical algae-and-leftover-food control without chasing fish, uprooting plants or bullying shrimp. They are also a useful visual signal: a shell that stays smooth and grows evenly usually points to decent mineral balance, while pitting or weak shell edges warn you to review hardness, pH and diet.
The main job of this page is to help you decide whether this snail suits your aquarium before you add it to a system. It covers natural background, tank setup, food, breeding, shell health, compatible tank mates, population control, acclimation and UK livestock packing. The aim is a useful care guide first and a product page second, because the best result for a live animal is the one that reaches the right keeper and the right aquarium.
| Common name | Pink Ramshorn Snail, pink ramshorn aquarium snail |
|---|---|
| Scientific name | Planorbella duryi; also seen historically under Helisoma duryi |
| Family | Planorbidae, the ramshorn snails |
| Adult size | Usually around 2 cm in aquariums, with well-grown adults close to 2.5 cm |
| Care level | Easy when the aquarium is mature, mineral-balanced and copper-free |
| Minimum aquarium | 20 litres for a small starter group; larger tanks are easier to keep stable |
| Temperature | Best as a warm indoor aquarium snail; 20-26°C is a practical everyday range |
| pH and hardness | Stable neutral to alkaline water is preferred; avoid very soft acidic tanks |
| Diet | Biofilm, soft algae, decaying leaves, leftover fish foods, vegetables and snail foods |
| Temperament | Peaceful; vulnerable to snail-eating fish and assassin snails |
| Best use | Planted tanks, shrimp tanks, nano aquariums and peaceful community aquariums |
Pink Ramshorns are chosen for a different reason from nerite snails, rabbit snails or Malaysian trumpet snails. Nerites are often picked when the main goal is heavy algae grazing with little to no breeding in freshwater. Rabbit snails are larger, slower and more sculptural. Malaysian Trumpet Snails spend much of their time working through the substrate. Pink Ramshorns sit in the middle: visible, colourful, active on glass and plant leaves, easy to feed, and very good at turning small leftovers and soft films into useful clean-up activity.
The pink colour is a captive aquarium line rather than the normal wild brown look. In a planted aquarium, the pale pink shell and rosy body contrast especially well against dark substrate, green plants and wood. Lighting, diet, age and shell mineralisation all affect how intense the colour appears, so the healthiest snail is not always the most neon-looking one. Look for a clean shell edge, a body that extends normally when grazing and a snail that grips the surface firmly.
The other reason this species is popular is behaviour. These snails are constantly doing something useful. They graze biofilm on glass, browse plant surfaces, clean bits of fish food from the substrate and work over wood, moss and leaves. They do not replace water changes, gravel cleaning or responsible feeding, but they make the aquarium feel more alive and help stop tiny leftovers becoming a water-quality issue. In shrimp tanks, they often share the same biofilm patches as cherry shrimp without causing trouble.
| Best reason to choose them | What that means in the aquarium |
|---|---|
| Colour | Pink to rosy shell tones stand out strongly in planted displays. |
| Grazing | They browse soft algae, biofilm and leftover food across many surfaces. |
| Peaceful nature | They do not harass fish, shrimp or other peaceful invertebrates. |
| Breeding visibility | Egg clutches and juveniles make colony behaviour easy to observe. |
| Shell-health feedback | Pitting, erosion or thin edges quickly show that minerals or diet need attention. |
Planorbella duryi is commonly known as the Seminole rams-horn. Authoritative species profiles place its native range in peninsular Florida, with the aquarium trade and plant movement responsible for records in other warm or heated habitats. The current valid name is Planorbella duryi, although older aquarium and scientific material may still use Helisoma duryi. Keeping both names in mind helps when reading older care sheets, but the customer-facing identity for this listing is Pink Ramshorn Snail (Planorbella duryi).
The natural species is associated with freshwater habitats such as ponds, spring seeps, plant-rich ditches, reservoirs, marshy edges and slow water. That background explains why it does well in aquariums that have mature surfaces rather than sterile, newly set-up glass boxes. A tank with healthy plant growth, wood, leaf litter, moss or gentle algae film gives the snail more natural browsing opportunities and reduces the risk of starvation.
Ramshorn snails are pulmonate snails, so they can breathe air as well as use dissolved oxygen. This does not mean they should be kept in poor water. It simply means they are adapted to slower, plant-rich waters where oxygen can vary. In aquariums, stable water quality, no ammonia or nitrite, and careful acclimation are still essential. If many snails suddenly climb to the waterline, treat it as a warning to test oxygen, ammonia, nitrite and temperature.
| Correct listing name | Pink Ramshorn Snail (Planorbella duryi) |
|---|---|
| Common species name | Seminole rams-horn |
| Older synonym | Helisoma duryi |
| Hobby wording | Pink ramshorn, ramshorn snail, aquarium ramshorn snail |
| Important distinction | This is an aquarium snail, not a fish and not an outdoor pond-cleaner product. |
This product is managed as a multi-size live listing. The smaller size is a good choice when you want snails that can settle into a nano aquarium, shrimp tank or growing planted setup. The larger size is better when you want more immediate visual impact and a stronger display from day one. Either size should be acclimated carefully and added to an established aquarium rather than a brand-new, uncycled tank.
Because snails grow and breed, the right starting number depends on tank maturity and feeding style. A small planted aquarium may only need a few individuals. A larger community aquarium can take more, but overfeeding will multiply the population much faster than the original purchase size. If you want a controlled population, start conservatively and let the tank tell you how much cleanup crew it can support.
| Variant | Best use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 1-1.5 cm | Starter groups, nano tanks, shrimp aquariums | Settles easily and grows on in the aquarium. |
| 2-2.5 cm | Display impact and faster visible grazing | Better if you want larger shells visible from the front glass. |
Pink Ramshorns can be hardy, but they are not magic. A mature aquarium gives them biofilm, stable bacteria, settled chemistry and surfaces to graze. New tanks often look clean but contain little food for snails, and they can still suffer ammonia or nitrite swings. If the tank is brand new, wait until it is fully cycled and has visible biological maturity before adding a clean-up crew.
A 20 litre aquarium is a practical minimum for a small starter group, provided it is cycled and not overloaded. Larger tanks are easier because temperature, pH, hardness and oxygen change more slowly. In very small tanks, the main risk is not the snail itself but the speed at which water quality changes after extra food, dying plant leaves or a filter problem.
For everyday aquarium care, aim for stable, mineral-present water rather than chasing a precise number. A practical range is around 20-26°C, pH 7.0-8.0 and moderate to hard water. They can tolerate a broader range, but soft acidic tanks are harder on shell growth because calcium availability is low. If your tap water is naturally soft, add mineral sources thoughtfully and test before making large changes.
| Parameter | Practical target | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 20-26°C for normal indoor aquarium care | Supports steady activity without pushing metabolism too hard. |
| pH | 7.0-8.0 preferred | Acidic water can weaken shells over time. |
| Hardness | Moderate to hard | Calcium and minerals support shell growth. |
| Ammonia/nitrite | 0 | Snails are sensitive to poor water quality. |
| Copper | 0; avoid copper medications | Copper is dangerous to snails and many invertebrates. |
Gentle filtration is ideal. Sponge filters, guarded intakes and low-to-moderate flow are especially good for shrimp tanks and small snail groups. Strong unguarded intakes can trap tiny juveniles or weak individuals. If you use a canister or hang-on filter, fit an intake sponge and clean it often enough that flow does not collapse.
Ramshorns do not need a special substrate, but dark sand or fine gravel makes the pink shell stand out. Live plants, wood, mosses, smooth stones and dried botanicals all create grazing surfaces. Healthy plant leaves are normally safe; decaying or melting leaves will be eaten. That is useful cleanup, not plant destruction. If plants are being damaged, check for nutrient deficiency, soft new growth, or another herbivore before blaming the ramshorns.
Pink Ramshorn Snails are omnivorous grazers. Their natural menu is biofilm, soft algae, dead plant material, microorganisms and decaying organic matter. In aquariums they also eat fish food crumbs, shrimp foods, algae wafers, blanched vegetables and specialist snail foods. The safest approach is to let them graze naturally, then supplement lightly when the tank is too clean to support them.
Overfeeding is the main reason ramshorn populations boom. Extra food means extra eggs, extra juveniles and extra waste. If you want a stable colony rather than a sudden population explosion, feed the fish first, remove large leftovers, and only add snail food when you know the snails need it. A small piece of courgette, spinach, nettle leaf or algae wafer should be eaten within a reasonable time; if it sits untouched and breaks down, remove it.
| Food type | Use | Caution |
|---|---|---|
| Biofilm and soft algae | Daily grazing and natural maintenance | Do not expect them to clear every hard algae type. |
| Leftover fish food | Useful cleanup from normal feeding | Too much leftover food causes population growth. |
| Algae wafers and shrimp foods | Good supplement in clean tanks | Feed tiny amounts and remove uneaten pieces. |
| Blanched vegetables | Useful treat and mineral-support food | Use pesticide-free vegetables and remove leftovers. |
| Calcium sources | Supports shell growth in softer water | Adjust slowly and monitor pH/hardness. |
| Copper medication | Do not use with snails present | Copper can kill aquarium invertebrates. |
In a mature planted tank, ramshorns may need almost no targeted feeding. In a spotless new aquascape, they may need more help because there is less biofilm. Watch the snails, not the calendar. A healthy snail is active, attached firmly and grazing. A snail that stays closed, floats repeatedly, or stops responding needs closer attention to water quality, acclimation stress, starvation or copper exposure.
The flat, spiral shell is the key visual feature of every ramshorn snail. In the pink form, shell and body colour can range from pale blush to deeper rosy tones. Some individuals look almost translucent under bright light; others show stronger colour on darker substrate. The shell should grow in a smooth coil, with a clean outer rim and no major cracks. Small scuffs can happen in normal aquarium life, but deep pitting or chalky erosion usually means the water is too soft, too acidic, or the diet lacks mineral support.
When choosing a pink ramshorn for a display tank, do not judge only by colour saturation. Healthy movement, firm attachment, a complete shell edge and a normal extended foot are more important than the brightest shell in a photograph. A slightly paler snail with excellent shell condition is a better animal than a bright one with damaged margins.
Pink Ramshorn Snails are peaceful, but they need peaceful tank mates in return. They work well with small community fish, many tetras, rasboras, danios, livebearers, dwarf corys, otocinclus, peaceful gouramis, cherry shrimp and many other non-predatory aquarium species. They are especially useful in shrimp tanks because they share the same interest in biofilm and leftover food without attacking shrimp.
Avoid fish and invertebrates that naturally eat snails. Puffers, many loaches, some cichlids and assassin snails are the obvious risks. Even fish that do not swallow the whole snail may nip at exposed tentacles or flip individuals repeatedly. If your goal is a stable ramshorn colony, do not mix them with snail predators and expect every individual to survive.
| Good companions | Use caution | Avoid when keeping a colony |
|---|---|---|
| Cherry shrimp and other peaceful dwarf shrimp | Very boisterous livebearer tanks | Pufferfish |
| Small tetras, rasboras and danios | Larger cichlids with unknown snail interest | Clown loaches and many snail-eating loaches |
| Corydoras and otocinclus | Crayfish and large predatory shrimp | Assassin snails |
| Peaceful planted community fish | Fast-feeding tanks where snails may be underfed | Any fish already known to crack shells |
A calm planted nano with cherry shrimp, ember tetras and pink ramshorns can work beautifully when feeding is measured. A larger community with corys, rasboras, live plants and driftwood can support a more visible group. A loach or puffer aquarium is the wrong place unless the snails are intended as food, which is not the purpose of this listing.
Pink Ramshorn Snails are hermaphrodites, so there is no useful male-versus-female selection for ordinary aquarium keeping. Mature snails can lay clear, jelly-like egg clutches on glass, leaves, hardscape, filter housings and other surfaces. In warm, well-fed tanks, eggs hatch into tiny young that begin grazing almost immediately. This is fascinating if you want a living colony, but it can become too much if the aquarium is heavily fed.
Population control is mostly food control. Ramshorns do not appear from nowhere; they multiply when the tank provides enough surplus food for them to do so. If you see a sudden boom, reduce excess feeding, remove decaying plant matter, clean dead spots, and avoid dropping in large wafers after lights-out. Manual removal is possible, but it only works long term if the food supply is also corrected.
| Breeding signal | What it tells you | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Many clear egg patches | Adults are mature and conditions are favourable | Feed lightly if you want to limit numbers. |
| Juveniles on glass | Eggs are hatching successfully | Protect filter intakes and avoid predator tanks. |
| Sudden population boom | There is more food than the tank needs | Reduce feeding and remove leftovers sooner. |
| Pale, weak juveniles | Minerals or diet may be lacking | Review pH, hardness and calcium sources. |
If you want only a small display group, remove some egg clutches before they hatch. If you want a colony, leave a few and manage food carefully. Do not rely on harsh chemicals or copper treatments for population control. They risk damaging the wider aquarium and are not appropriate for a stocked tank.
Snails are often lost after arrival because they are moved too quickly between water with different pH, hardness or temperature. The shell and body can look fine at first, then stress appears later. Slow acclimation is especially important for any invertebrate coming from a different water system. Float the sealed bag to equalise temperature, then gradually mix small amounts of aquarium water into the transport water before release. Keep lights lower during the first hours and avoid adding them during a water-quality problem.
Do not place new ramshorns straight into a tank that recently had copper medication, algaecide, unexplained fish deaths, ammonia or nitrite. If you use plant fertilisers, check that the product is invertebrate-safe and dosed correctly. Many planted tanks use fertiliser successfully with snails, but overdosing or using the wrong product can cause trouble.
Most Pink Ramshorn problems are caused by environment rather than by a mysterious disease. Soft, acidic water can erode shells. Copper can kill them. Starvation can happen in very clean tanks with no biofilm and no targeted food. Predation can look like unexplained disappearance. Poor acclimation can cause stress that appears after the snail has already been released.
Shell health is the easiest long-term marker to monitor. New shell growth should look smooth and reasonably even. A rough old shell does not always repair completely, but new growth can improve once water and diet are corrected. Calcium-rich foods, mineral-balanced water and steady pH are more useful than sudden chemical fixes. Avoid large swings; snails dislike instability as much as fish do.
| Problem | Likely cause | First response |
|---|---|---|
| Pitted shell | Low minerals, acidic water or old damage | Test pH/KH/GH and improve mineral support gradually. |
| Many snails at surface | Low oxygen, ammonia, nitrite or temperature stress | Test water immediately and increase aeration. |
| Population explosion | Excess leftover food | Reduce feeding and remove uneaten food faster. |
| Snails disappear | Predators, assassin snails, filter intake or poor acclimation | Check tank mates, intake guards and recent changes. |
| Closed shell after arrival | Transport and water-chemistry stress | Keep water stable, lights calm and avoid disturbance. |
Copper is one of the most important warnings for snail keepers. Some fish medications, algaecides and treatments contain copper or other invertebrate-risk ingredients. Always read labels before using any treatment in a tank with snails, shrimp or clams. If treatment is necessary, move invertebrates only to a fully safe, cycled alternative system; do not move them into an uncycled bowl and hope for the best.
If you are choosing between aquarium snails, match the species to the job. Pink Ramshorns are best when you want colour, visible grazing and an easy breeding colony. Nerite snails are often stronger for hard surface algae and usually do not reproduce successfully in freshwater. Malaysian Trumpet Snails are better for substrate movement and night-time burrowing. Rabbit snails are larger display animals that need more space and careful feeding. Assassin snails are not clean-up snails for a ramshorn colony; they are predators of other snails.
| Snail type | Best strength | Important caution |
|---|---|---|
| Pink Ramshorn Snail | Colour, biofilm grazing, colony behaviour | Breeds readily if overfed. |
| Blue Ramshorn Snail | Similar care with a different display colour | Same population-control rules apply. |
| Malaysian Trumpet Snail | Substrate browsing and burrowing behaviour | Often hidden during the day. |
| Nerite Snail | Strong algae grazing on hard surfaces | Eggs may appear even though freshwater reproduction is limited. |
| Rabbit Snail | Larger display shell and slower movement | Needs more space and targeted food. |
| Assassin Snail | Predatory snail control | Unsafe with ramshorn colonies you want to keep. |
Live aquarium snails need careful handling because the shell is only one part of the animal. Before dispatch, stock is checked for active movement, normal attachment, intact shell edges and signs of recent grazing. Weak, damaged or inactive individuals should not be sent as finished retail livestock. This matters more than marketing wording because the first week in the customer aquarium is where poor selection usually shows.
For UK delivery, snails are packed as live invertebrates with moisture, insulation and seasonal temperature care. The aim is to reduce stress and keep the animal stable in transit, not to make exaggerated promises. After arrival, slow acclimation and a mature receiving tank still matter. A well-packed snail can still fail if it is dropped into copper, ammonia, extreme softness or a predator tank.
Where live-arrival support applies, follow the site policy and contact us quickly with clear photos and order details. Do not discard animals or packaging before recording evidence. The faster we can see what happened, the faster we can help.
Google and AI systems can understand this product from clear names, useful headings, natural copy, image alt text, tables and specific care details. Repeating phrases such as aquarium snails, freshwater snails and ramshorn snail in a forced list does not help the keeper and can make the result look less trustworthy. This page uses those terms where they make sense, then relies on real husbandry detail, species identity and visual structure to carry the search relevance.
Yes, it is beginner-friendly in a cycled, stable aquarium. The main beginner mistakes are adding snails to an immature tank, using copper medication, keeping them with snail-eating fish, or feeding so heavily that the population grows too quickly.
They usually graze biofilm, algae and decaying plant tissue rather than destroying healthy plants. If you see holes in plants, check plant nutrition, lighting, melting leaves or other herbivores before assuming the ramshorn is the cause.
For a small planted or shrimp aquarium, start with a modest group and watch the food supply. In a larger community tank, you can keep more, but the population will still track feeding levels. Fewer snails and better observation are usually wiser than adding too many at once.
They need mineral-balanced water and a diet that supports shell growth. In hard-water aquariums, natural minerals may be enough. In soft-water systems, use suitable mineral support slowly and test the water rather than making sudden changes.
Yes, they are usually excellent shrimp-tank companions. They share biofilm and leftover foods peacefully. Avoid treatments or fertiliser mistakes that would harm both snails and shrimp.
They can breed quickly when food is abundant. Population control is mainly feeding control: remove leftovers, avoid oversized wafers and keep the aquarium clean. Egg removal and manual thinning can help, but food management is the long-term fix.
No. Puffers and many loaches eat snails or damage them. If you want to keep Pink Ramshorns as display animals or a cleanup crew, choose peaceful tank mates instead.
The pink colour is a captive aquarium colour line. The species background is still Planorbella duryi, but the visual appeal comes from selected shell and body colour rather than the normal wild brown appearance.
If you want another colour in the same general ramshorn style, compare this listing with the Blue Ramshorn Snail. If you want substrate activity, see the Malaysian Trumpet Snail. For harder algae on glass and decor, a Nerite Snail may suit the job better. For a much larger ramshorn-style display snail, compare with the Giant Ramshorn Snail.
This rewrite keeps the useful older care depth while removing forced search phrases. Species identity and natural-range notes were checked against USGS and USFWS material for Planorbella duryi; shell size, warm-water preference and lentic habitat notes were cross-checked with the 2025 USFWS ecological risk summary; aquarium husbandry ranges were kept conservative for practical home-aquarium care; and Google Search Central guidance was followed for a concise, descriptive title and a unique meta description instead of keyword lists.
Long-term success with Pink Ramshorn Snails is mostly about consistency. Keep water changes regular, avoid sudden chemistry swings, feed the aquarium rather than the population boom, and check shell edges during routine maintenance. A snail that is active every day, holds firmly to glass or leaves, and produces smooth new shell growth is usually telling you the tank is working. A group that hides, floats repeatedly, or shows shell erosion is asking you to slow down and test the basics before adding more livestock.
These snails are small, but they are still living aquarium animals with specific needs. They deserve the same care planning as fish: correct tank mates, correct water, safe transport, gradual acclimation and honest expectations. Used properly, they make planted tanks cleaner, more interesting and easier to read. Used carelessly, they become another sign that the tank is being overfed or rushed.
Long-term success with Pink Ramshorn Snails is mostly about consistency. Keep water changes regular, avoid sudden chemistry swings, feed the aquarium rather than the population boom, and check shell edges during routine maintenance. A snail that is active every day, holds firmly to glass or leaves, and produces smooth new shell growth is usually telling you the tank is working. A group that hides, floats repeatedly, or shows shell erosion is asking you to slow down and test the basics before adding more livestock.
These snails are small, but they are still living aquarium animals with specific needs. They deserve the same care planning as fish: correct tank mates, correct water, safe transport, gradual acclimation and honest expectations. Used properly, they make planted tanks cleaner, more interesting and easier to read. Used carelessly, they become another sign that the tank is being overfed, medicated without checking invertebrate safety, or rushed before the filter and biofilm are ready.
If your goal is a beautiful display rather than a breeding colony, treat feeding as the main control dial. If your goal is a self-sustaining clean-up colony, give the snails mature surfaces, mineral-balanced water and enough food without letting leftovers decay. The same species can be either neat and useful or too numerous depending on how the aquarium is managed.

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