Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi

Decide whether this dwarf cichlid fits your aquarium

The Abacaxis / Wilhelmi dwarf cichlid (Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi) is a South American freshwater fish from the cichlid family. WoRMS recognises Apistogramma as a genus within Cichlidae, while this trade label identifies a form at genus level rather than naming a formally accepted species. It is best approached by an intermediate keeper who can prepare a mature, filtered aquarium, measure the water and manage territorial behaviour.

Wikipedia describes Apistogramma as South American dwarf cichlids that mostly feed on tiny animals in nature. Breeding behaviour varies with the exact species, so this fish should not be assigned a detailed breeding pattern from its trade label alone. The useful starting points are its cichlid identity, small-animal feeding biology and the practical dwarf-cichlid care limits below.

Match the fish to the keeper

Choose this fish for the close observation and careful planning involved in keeping a dwarf cichlid, not because its small dispatch length seems to remove the need for space. If you are comparing related aquarium plans, browse our South American cichlid collection and assess each animal against the same water, space and behaviour checks.

Use the dwarf-cichlid limits for planning

Keep the aquarium at 22–27°C, pH 6.0–8.0 and general hardness of 4–12 dGH. Carbonate hardness should be 3–10 dKH. OATA’s dwarf-cichlid sheet sets these as broad group guidance, not a species-specific optimum. Measure your aquarium rather than judging its chemistry by appearance.

Ammonia and nitrite must each remain at zero mg per litre. Keep nitrate from exceeding 20 mg per litre above the normal level in your tap water. For example, if the tap-water reading is 10 mg/l, the aquarium ceiling under this rule is 30 mg/l. Test at least weekly so that a change can be found before behaviour or feeding deteriorates.

Allow enough water volume and cover

Use an aquarium of at least 60 litres if keeping a pair. Use at least 80 litres when mixing dwarf cichlids with other fish. OATA also notes that larger dwarf-cichlid species do not exceed 10 cm; treat that as a group planning ceiling rather than an adult-size claim for this genus-level form. A larger aquarium is useful because temperature and water quality tend to remain more stable.

These figures form one connected decision. A suitable temperature does not compensate for ammonia, crowding or insufficient shelter, and a large aquarium still needs a mature working filter.

Understand the animal you receive

One purchase supplies one live fish at a dispatch size of 2.5–3 cm. That measurement describes the animal sent, not its eventual adult length. Plan the aquarium with the dwarf-cichlid space guidance, territorial behaviour and group planning ceiling in mind rather than treating dispatch size as a permanent measure.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

Prepare before committing

• Have a mature filter running and confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite.
• Check that temperature, pH, general hardness and carbonate hardness sit within the stated guidance.
• Use at least 60 litres for a pair or at least 80 litres for a community plan.
• Add plants, caves, wood, leaf litter or other suitable shelters so the fish can use cover.
• Screen companions for activity level, shared water conditions and space during territorial periods.

The fish is sold individually, so any wider stocking plan remains a separate husbandry decision. Build that plan around the aquarium’s measured capacity and the behaviour you observe after introduction.

Hold the water inside the stated guidance

Keep temperature between 22°C and 27°C, pH between 6.0 and 8.0, general hardness between 4 and 12 dGH, and carbonate hardness between 3 and 10 dKH. Test each value that affects your aquarium instead of relying on labels such as soft or medium. Our aquarium water chemistry guide explains which readings to record, while the water matcher helps compare those measurements with the stated ranges.

Read the values together

A result of 25°C, pH 7.2, 8 dGH and 5 dKH sits inside all four water ranges. It still needs zero ammonia and zero nitrite, because acceptable mineral readings do not make toxic waste safe. Record the complete set so that a later change can be compared with a known baseline.

Nitrate uses a relative ceiling: it must not exceed the normal tap-water level by more than 20 mg/l. Measure the tap supply as well as the aquarium. If the tap level is 5 mg/l, keep the aquarium at or below 25 mg/l; if the tap level is 15 mg/l, keep it at or below 35 mg/l.

Build a useful comparison record

Write down the full set of readings before introduction, then compare it with the next weekly test. For example, a change from zero ammonia and zero nitrite to a measurable result demands action even when temperature and pH remain unchanged. A nitrate rise should be compared with the tap-water baseline rather than with zero, because its limit is relative to that starting value.

• Record the date, temperature, pH, dGH, dKH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
• Test the tap supply when calculating the nitrate ceiling.
• Compare each result with both the stated limit and the previous reading.
• Delay further stocking whenever ammonia or nitrite is above zero.

Measure at least once each week and use the same units each time. The aim is a repeatable routine in which every important reading can be checked against a clear limit.

Establish the filter before adding the fish

Use a well-set-up and maintained filter in every aquarium for this fish. The RSPCA’s aquarium welfare guidance explains that fish release toxic ammonia and that a working biological filter supports bacteria which convert ammonia to nitrite and then to the safer nitrate. A running filter is therefore part of the livestock system, not an optional accessory.

Confirm zero ammonia and zero nitrite before introduction. OATA warns that stocking too quickly can cause new tank syndrome because the established bacterial population may not yet process the increased waste. Add fish slowly and continue testing whenever feeding or the number of animals rises.

Use readings, not a calendar

Follow our first tropical aquarium guide to prepare and mature the system. The decision to add livestock should rest on water tests and a functioning filter rather than the number of days the aquarium has been running.

Respond to the filter’s first warning signs

If ammonia or nitrite appears after livestock or feeding increases, stop expanding the stocking plan. Check that the filter is operating, inspect it for blockages and look for uneaten food that is adding waste. Continue testing while the bacterial population adjusts rather than assuming one improved reading has settled the issue.

A filter that still moves water can require attention when its flow declines or its media becomes obstructed. Deal with the blockage without stripping away the bacterial population. Pair that inspection with measured feeding and the scheduled partial water change, because the filter processes waste but does not remove the need for routine maintenance.

Never run filter media under the tap. Rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during a partial water change, reducing the amount of established bacteria lost. Keep the filter operating effectively while preserving the biological population on which waste processing depends.

Give territories cover and enough space

Choose as large an aquarium as is reasonable for the plan. Use at least 60 litres for a pair and at least 80 litres when dwarf cichlids are mixed with other fish. The larger volume helps environmental conditions such as temperature and water quality remain more stable, while the extra room gives companions space if territorial behaviour increases.

Build the layout around shelter

Use aquarium gravel or sand and add live plants where practical. Plants create cover for shy fish and help divide the visible space. If live planting is not part of the design, use artificial plants and suitable ornaments such as plant pots, model caves, wood and leaf litter. These all serve the supported purpose of giving the fish shelter.

Include several covered places rather than relying on one exposed ornament. OATA notes that even well-settled pairs will often chase each other, making plentiful cover essential. Check that each shelter remains accessible and that decorations cannot block the routine inspection of the fish and filter.

Check whether the cover works

Judge shelter by how the fish use it. A decoration that looks substantial but leaves every animal exposed does not perform the same job as accessible cover. During feeding and routine observation, note whether the dwarf cichlid can enter shelter and whether companions retain room to move away from territorial activity.

• If a fish repeatedly hides more than normal, check water quality as well as shelter and space.
• If chasing increases, confirm that several covered places remain usable.
• If companions cannot move away, reassess the mixed-fish plan against the 80-litre minimum.
• If plants are absent, make sure artificial plants and suitable ornaments still provide cover.

Review the layout whenever repeated chasing or increased hiding appears. The first response is to check whether the aquarium still offers enough space and usable cover, then test water because behavioural change can also accompany a water-quality problem.

Feed small food once daily

Feed once a day and offer only what the fish can eat within a few minutes. Apistogramma mostly take tiny animals in nature, while OATA describes aquarium dwarf cichlids as omnivorous. A good-quality flake or granule can form the regular aquarium food, provided the pieces are suitable for a dwarf cichlid to take.

Add small live or frozen foods for variety

Include small items of live or frozen food such as daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex. These choices follow the group feeding guidance and fit the genus’s recorded small-animal feeding biology. Rotate them through the feeding plan rather than relying on one food for every meal.

Watch the fish during the entire feed. Food should be consumed within a few minutes. If pieces remain after that period, reduce the next portion rather than adding more. Uneaten food breaks down and releases toxic waste, so portion control directly supports the zero-ammonia and zero-nitrite requirements.

Adjust the portion from what remains

Use the end of the feeding period as the decision point. If all food is eaten within a few minutes and the fish has clear access to it, keep the portion steady. If food settles beneath cover or remains uneaten, reduce the next portion and remove accumulated waste during maintenance.

When other fish share the aquarium, observe who reaches the food rather than increasing the total amount automatically. A larger portion can leave more waste without ensuring that the shy fish feeds. Check access throughout the meal and keep the once-daily limit and few-minute portion rule intact.

• Maintain the portion when it is fully eaten within a few minutes.
• Reduce it when food remains after that period.
• Use daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex to add supported variety.
• Test water when appetite changes or uneaten food has accumulated.

Reduced interest in food is a health or husbandry warning rather than a reason to keep increasing the portion. Test the water, compare behaviour with the fish’s normal pattern and check whether active companions are interfering with feeding.

Complete the weekly maintenance routine

At least once every week, complete a 25% partial water change. Use a siphon where useful to remove solid waste from the gravel. Treat all replacement tap water with a conditioner that removes chlorine or chloramine before adding it to the aquarium.

Test before small problems become large ones

Test the water at least weekly for ammonia and nitrite and keep both at zero mg/l. Measure nitrate against the normal tap-water reading and keep the aquarium no more than 20 mg/l above that baseline. Include temperature, pH and hardness in the routine often enough to recognise movement away from the stated ranges.

Check the filter for blockages during maintenance. If cleaning is needed, place some of the removed aquarium water in a clean container and rinse the media lightly in it. Do not run it under the tap because chlorine or chloramine may kill the established bacterial population.

Review the pattern across four weekly checks

Keep four consecutive weekly results together so that gradual changes are visible. A repeated nitrate rise towards its relative ceiling calls for a review of feeding, solid waste and the consistency of water changes. Any ammonia or nitrite result above zero requires attention even if the previous weeks were clear.

Use the same maintenance sequence each week: observe the fish, test the water, complete the partial change, treat replacement tap water and inspect the filter. A consistent order reduces the chance of missing a task and links each water result to the work completed that day.

• Compare feeding interest and swimming with the previous week.
• Check whether aggression or hiding has changed.
• Record water results before judging the trend.
• Keep the 25% change attached to the at-least-weekly frequency.

Link maintenance to the feeding routine. A few uneaten pieces can disappear beneath cover, so watch where food lands and use the weekly siphon to remove accumulated solid waste. Steady portions, a mature filter and scheduled water changes work together; none replaces the others.

Follow the arrival steps in order

Before the parcel arrives, confirm that the aquarium is ready, the filter is established, and ammonia and nitrite are both zero. Check temperature, pH and hardness against the dwarf-cichlid guidance. These aquarium checks come from OATA’s introduction advice and should be completed before the delivery procedure begins.

Follow the Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy in this order:

1. Receive the parcel in person; live fish cannot be left unattended.
2. Start filming while the parcel is still sealed, with the outer box visible, before opening anything.
3. Open the parcel on the day it arrives in one continuous take.
4. Keep the fish visible inside the sealed bag so its condition can be seen before anything is disturbed.
5. Float the bag for 20–30 minutes before releasing the fish.
6. Do not pour the bag water into the aquarium.

Preserve the claim record

The continuous video is required for a Live Arrival Guarantee claim and should show the sealed parcel, the opening and the fish still inside the sealed bag. Keep the order number with the video. The parcel must be received, opened and inspected on the day it arrives.

The fish is hand-bagged in pure oxygen and placed in an insulated poly box, with a heat pack when weather conditions call for one. A licensed live-animal courier carries the parcel. These packing details protect the journey, while the prepared aquarium, measured water and slow acclimatisation govern the transition into the keeper’s system.

Respond to health changes with water tests

Learn the fish’s normal swimming, colour, breathing, temperament, appearance and feeding pattern. Individual fish vary, so a change from the usual pattern is often more useful than a single isolated pose. Inspect the animal during feeding and during routine maintenance without assigning a sex or breeding state from colour alone.

Act on a change rather than guessing a diagnosis

Compare several signs before acting further

Record the time, the behaviour observed and the current water readings. A fish hiding more than normal alongside rising aggression points to a space-and-cover review as well as water tests. Faster or slower gill movement combined with a filter-flow change makes an immediate filter check especially important.

Continue observing after the first corrective action. Compare swimming, breathing and feeding with the fish’s usual pattern at the next normal observation point. Do not add livestock while ammonia or nitrite is measurable or while an unexplained health change continues.

Water testing is the immediate supported response because even small amounts of ammonia or nitrite can stress dwarf cichlids. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, restore the maintenance routine if it has slipped and avoid adding more livestock while a water-quality problem is being investigated.

Do not diagnose disease from colour, hiding or appetite alone. Those changes can be tracked clearly, but treatment depends on the complete pattern and the measured aquarium conditions.

Choose calm dither fish carefully

Choose shoals of dither fish that share the stated water conditions and have enough room to move away if the dwarf cichlid becomes territorial. OATA describes dither fish as giving dwarf cichlids a sense of security and being quick enough to leave the territory when necessary. This is the only companion type named in the care guidance, so screen the actual candidate rather than treating every small community fish as equivalent.

Screen each candidate in four steps

1. Compare water needs: the companion must fit 22–27°C, pH 6.0–8.0 and the stated hardness ranges.
2. Check activity: avoid very active or boisterous tank mates because Apistogramma can be shy and may not do well with them.
3. Check space: use at least 80 litres for a mixed-fish plan and preserve room for companions if breeding starts.
4. Check feeding: observe every meal so the dwarf cichlid can take its once-daily portion within a few minutes.

Compatibility remains conditional on the individual aquarium. Shared temperature is only one screen: water chemistry, activity, available space, cover and the breeding plan must all align.

Prepare for territorial behaviour

Dwarf cichlids may become territorial, especially when breeding. Make sure every tank mate has enough space if that happens. Use plentiful plant cover, caves, wood, leaf litter or suitable ornaments, because even settled pairs will often chase each other.

Keep breeding risks out of the plan

If breeding is intended, avoid tank mates that might disturb spawning sites or predate on fry. Keep this condition attached to the breeding plan: it is not a general claim that every companion will disturb the fish, and it is not permission to overlook activity level or crowding outside a breeding setup.

Do not infer rank, dominance, sex or compatibility from the animal’s dispatch length or gallery colour. Observe how the fish uses the actual aquarium and respond to changes in aggression, hiding, breathing and feeding. The reliable screening rule is simple: shared water conditions, calm activity, sufficient volume, plentiful cover and a breeding plan that protects spawning sites and fry.

Answer common buyer questions

How big does Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi get?

OATA notes that larger dwarf-cichlid species reach up to 10 cm. Use that as a broad planning ceiling for this genus-level trade form rather than as its recorded adult length.

What size aquarium does Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi need?

OATA’s dwarf-cichlid guidance recommends at least 60 litres for a pair and at least 80 litres when mixing dwarf cichlids with other fish.

How many of this dwarf cichlid should I keep together?

Pair keeping is covered by OATA’s guidance as a possible plan in at least 60 litres with plentiful cover. Base any wider stocking plan on aquarium volume, behaviour and territorial space.

Is Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi suitable for beginners?

We rate it intermediate because the keeper must manage a mature filter, weekly water tests, measured hardness, careful compatibility and possible territorial behaviour.

What does this dwarf cichlid eat?

It mostly takes tiny animals in nature. OATA advises good-quality flake or granule plus small live or frozen daphnia, brine shrimp or tubifex, fed once daily in an amount eaten within a few minutes.

What temperature and pH does Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi need?

OATA’s dwarf-cichlid group guidance gives 22–27°C, pH 6.0–8.0, general hardness of 4–12 dGH and carbonate hardness of 3–10 dKH.

Is this dwarf cichlid aggressive or a fin nipper?

Its key recorded risk is territorial behaviour, especially during breeding. Provide plentiful cover, allow every tank mate enough space and monitor chasing, hiding and changes in aggression.

Which kinds of animals can it live with?

OATA recommends shoals of dither fish that share the water conditions and can move away from a territory. Avoid very active or boisterous tank mates and, when breeding is intended, animals that disturb spawning sites or predate fry.

How does Apistogramma sp. Abacaxis / Wilhelmi arrive alive in the UK?

Start filming the sealed parcel before opening it. Open it in one continuous take with the fish visible in the sealed bag, float the bag for 20–30 minutes, and do not pour bag water into the aquarium; contact us the same day with the video and order number if making a Live Arrival Guarantee claim.

Consult the public references

• WoRMS: accepted genus, order and family placement for Apistogramma.
• Wikipedia: genus-level South American distribution, dwarf-cichlid identity and natural feeding biology.
• OATA: dwarf-cichlid water, aquarium, feeding, maintenance, introduction, health and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA: general aquarium filtration and biological waste-processing guidance.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy: packing, receipt, video, acclimatisation and claim procedure.