
Danio malabaricus orange
22–26°C · pH 6.5–7.5 · 120L

Choose Giant Danio (Devario malabaricus) in four live size options. This large, peaceful but boisterous shoaling fish needs a mature 200-litre aquarium, around 120 cm of swimming length, clean oxygen-rich water and a group of at least six.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.
Devario malabaricus
Giant Danio are a shoaling species — they need 6+ to feel safe and show their full colour.
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Choose Giant Danio (Devario malabaricus) in four live size options. This large, peaceful but boisterous shoaling fish needs a mature 200-litre aquarium, around 120 cm of swimming length, clean oxygen-rich water and a group of at least six.
Adult size is the maximum length this species reaches at full maturity (scientific sources). The livestock you receive will be younger and smaller — pick a size variant above for the actual shipping size. Product-photo provenance and any image-specific limitations are stated on the listing.

22–26°C · pH 6.5–7.5 · 120L

20–26°C · pH 6–7.5 · 75L

20–24°C · pH 6.5–7.5 · 45L

24–28°C · pH 7–8.5 · 200L
Maintain these water conditions for optimal health and vibrant colors
The Giant Danio is a powerful, silver-and-blue shoaling fish for aquariums built around movement. The fish offered here is Devario malabaricus, also known as the Malabar Danio. It is peaceful with appropriately robust companions, but it is much larger, faster and more boisterous than a Zebra Danio. A long, mature aquarium, brisk oxygenation and a proper group are therefore essential.
One selected quantity means one fish in the chosen size. Choose from the live size options shown beside the purchase controls, then select enough fish for the group you are building. Keep at least six together; eight or more usually produces a calmer, more convincing shoal when the aquarium has the capacity. The price and availability shown by the live controls are the current values for the selected size.
This is a hardy species once its basic welfare needs are met, but it is not a small-tank shortcut. Adults are usually about 8-12 cm long, use the upper and middle water almost continuously, and can jump through surprisingly small gaps. Plan around a tank of at least 200 litres and roughly 120 cm in length for a group, with more room for a busy mixed community. The result is a visible, coordinated display that fills open water without relying on territorial centrepiece fish.
| Scientific name | Devario malabaricus |
|---|---|
| Other common name | Malabar Danio |
| Adult size | Commonly about 8 cm; plan for up to 12 cm |
| Care level | Moderate: hardy, but demanding of swimming length and oxygen |
| Temperament | Peaceful, extremely active and boisterous at feeding time |
| Group | At least 6; 8-10 or more where space permits |
| Minimum aquarium | 200 litres and about 120 cm long for a group |
| Temperature | 18-25°C |
| pH | 6.0-8.0; stability matters more than chasing a midpoint |
| Hardness | About 2-15 dGH |
| Tank region | Surface, upper and middle water |
| Diet | Omnivore with a strong appetite for insect and small animal foods |
| Flow and oxygen | Moderate current, excellent gas exchange and clean water |
| Lid | Tight fitting, with every cable and pipe gap covered |
This product brings several source sizes together on one page so you can choose the most suitable fish without comparing duplicate listings. The selected size describes the approximate dispatch size, not the final adult length. Natural variation between living fish is expected, and the XL option should be read as the larger grade currently defined by the live variant rather than a promised exact centimetre measurement.
| Option | What you receive per quantity | Planning note |
|---|---|---|
| 2 cm | One juvenile fish at approximately the displayed grade | Allow for substantial growth and do not use juvenile size to justify a small aquarium |
| 3-4 cm | One fish at approximately 3-4 cm | Choose companions that cannot swallow or intimidate a fish of this starting size |
| 4-5 cm | One fish at approximately 4-5 cm | A useful grade for an established active community with matched tank mates |
| XL | One fish from the larger live grade | Check the live option and ask before ordering if an exact dispatch length is critical |
Build the group around fish of reasonably similar size. Very large differences can create uneven feeding and intimidation even within a peaceful species. If you are adding to an established shoal, observe the resident fish carefully and provide more than one feeding point while the new arrivals settle. The stocking calculator can help organise a first draft, but adult dimensions, swimming behaviour and filtration capacity must still guide the final decision.
The aquarium trade has used the name Giant Danio for more than one closely related fish. Older books and listings often apply Devario aequipinnatus, while much of the stock sold under the common name has been identified as Devario malabaricus. Those are separate valid species, so combining both identities into a three-part hybrid name is misleading.
The provenance for this product names Devario malabaricus, and that is the identity used throughout this listing. Malabar Danio is the more precise alternate common name, while Giant Danio remains the familiar shopping name. The distinction matters because the verified profile for this species supports a cooler 18-25°C range, an adult size commonly around 8 cm and up to about 12 cm, and a native range centred on the west coast of India and Sri Lanka.
Adults have an elongated, muscular body, a deeply forked tail and reflective blue-to-turquoise horizontal markings over silver and gold. Irregular darker bars may be visible toward the front of the body. Colour changes with age, lighting, background, stress and social condition, so photographs represent the species and aquarium presentation rather than the exact individual dispatched.
| Name | Status here | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| Giant Danio | Primary common name | The established UK aquarium-trade and search name |
| Malabar Danio | Alternate common name | The common name tied specifically to Devario malabaricus |
| Devario malabaricus | Accepted scientific name used here | Matches the product provenance and current taxonomic records |
| Danio malabaricus | Historical synonym | An older combination that may appear in books and databases |
| Devario aequipinnatus | Different species | Frequently confused with aquarium Giant Danios, but not merged into this product name |
Devario malabaricus is native to the west coast of India and Sri Lanka. Records describe it in a range of freshwater habitats, from boulder-strewn mountain torrents to smaller pools in seasonal streams, but it is particularly associated with flowing water. Adults form medium-sized shoals and feed on terrestrial insects, detritus and other available foods.
That background explains the key aquarium requirements. The long body and forked tail are built for sustained movement. The fish expects oxygen-rich water, a current it can choose to enter or leave, and unobstructed horizontal room. It is not a brackish-water species, and it does not need an artificial torrent across every part of the tank. A better design creates a moving upper-water lane while retaining quieter margins around plants and wood.
Natural shoaling is also more than decoration. A group lets social attention remain within the species instead of being directed constantly at tank mates. It spreads routine chasing, improves confidence and produces the coordinated turns that make this fish appealing. A pair or trio may survive, but it does not provide the same behavioural security and is more likely to channel energy into persistent pursuit.
Use rounded stones, smooth gravel or sand, sturdy plants and driftwood to suggest a river edge without filling the centre. Java fern and Anubias can be attached to wood or stone, while Vallisneria and robust stems work well along the back and sides. Leave a wide front-to-back and end-to-end lane for swimming. The Rasboras and Danios collection is useful when comparing this large river fish with smaller relatives that need much less space.
For a group of six, use at least about 200 litres with a frontage close to 120 cm. Volume alone is not enough: a tall cube can hold the same litres as a long aquarium but gives a fast shoal far less usable runway. A 300-litre or larger tank is preferable for eight to ten fish, a mixed community or a layout with substantial hardscape.
The minimum is a planning floor, not an automatic stocking permission. Subtract the space taken by decor, consider the adult sizes of every species, and allow for the filter's real performance between maintenance sessions. Use the tank-volume tool to calculate water volume from internal dimensions, then make a conservative allowance for substrate, rock and wood.
Choose a mature filter with enough biological capacity for a lively shoal and its companions. A canister filter, a strong internal system or a carefully designed combination can all work. The important outcomes are zero measurable ammonia, zero measurable nitrite, low and stable nitrate, clear flow through the media and visible surface movement.
A turnover target of roughly five to eight times the aquarium volume per hour is a useful starting point, but quoted pump figures are measured without dirty media, hose resistance or decor. Watch the fish and water rather than treating the number as a guarantee. Direct part of the return along the length of the tank, break the surface for gas exchange, and maintain at least one calmer zone.
Warm water carries less dissolved oxygen. During hot weather, increase surface agitation, keep filters clean, reduce unnecessary feeding and monitor the aquarium closely. Do not respond to every warm day with a rapid temperature change; sudden swings can be more stressful than a gradual movement within the safe range.
This species can jump when startled, chased or excited by food. Fit a secure lid and close gaps around cables, pipes and filter returns. Check the lid after maintenance instead of assuming it has settled back correctly. Floating plants can soften the surface, but they do not replace a physical cover and should not block gas exchange.
Use smooth materials that will not damage a fish moving at speed. Dark gravel or sand often makes the metallic pattern easier to see. Plant the perimeter and anchor epiphytes to wood or rounded stones, leaving the middle open. Moderate lighting for a normal day-night cycle is sufficient; shaded edges help the group settle while the open area remains bright enough for inspection.
| Area | Ready when | Common mistake |
|---|---|---|
| Biological filter | Ammonia and nitrite remain at 0 mg/L under the planned load | Adding a full shoal to an immature filter |
| Swimming room | A long open lane remains after hardscape and plants are installed | Counting gross litres while ignoring footprint |
| Flow | Upper water moves and the surface is visibly agitated | Creating one harsh jet with no resting area |
| Cover | Every edge, cable gap and pipe opening is secure | Leaving a small escape route behind the filter |
| Water | Temperature, pH and hardness are stable and measured | Trying to force a textbook midpoint with rapid chemical correction |
| Stocking | All companions suit the adult fish, not only the dispatch size | Pairing juveniles with fish that will later be too small, slow or delicate |
Anyone starting a new system should complete the nitrogen cycle before choosing a delivery date. Our first tropical aquarium guide explains the sequence, while the water chemistry guide covers ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and hardness in more depth.
A sensible long-term range is 18-25°C, pH 6.0-8.0 and about 2-15 dGH. These figures are deliberately presented as ranges, not a demand to adjust every aquarium to one ideal number. A stable value inside the overlap for the whole community is usually safer than repeated attempts to move pH or hardness.
| Measure | Target | Management |
|---|---|---|
| Temperature | 18-25°C | Use a reliable thermometer and avoid sudden changes |
| pH | 6.0-8.0 | Match stable local water where possible; never chase pH with repeated quick fixes |
| General hardness | About 2-15 dGH | Test source water and ensure companions share the same practical range |
| Ammonia | 0 mg/L | Stop feeding, test the system and correct the cause if detected |
| Nitrite | 0 mg/L | Treat any reading as a filtration or stocking warning |
| Nitrate | Low and stable | Control through appropriate stocking, measured feeding and regular water changes |
| Oxygen | High | Maintain surface movement, clear flow and sensible temperature |
Change a consistent portion of the water each week, commonly around 25-40% depending on measured nitrate, stocking and feeding. Match replacement water temperature closely, use a suitable dechlorinator and avoid disturbing every part of the filter and substrate on the same day. Rinse mechanical media in removed aquarium water when flow falls; preserve biological media and follow the filter manufacturer's safe maintenance sequence.
Clean water does not mean sterile water. A mature aquarium has stable microbial communities in the filter and surfaces. Large, unnecessary clean-outs can remove the very biology that keeps the system safe. Make small, repeatable interventions, record test results and investigate trends before they become emergencies.
Giant Danios are peaceful in the sense that they do not defend a cave or territory, but their pace can overwhelm quiet companions. They cruise, turn and rush toward food throughout the day. In a group of six or more, normal social interactions are distributed across the shoal. In undersized groups, one fish may become the repeated focus of chasing or the fish may direct too much attention toward other species.
Eight to ten individuals produce a stronger display when the tank is long enough. More fish do not automatically solve a poor setup, though. Every addition increases waste and requires more swimming room. Increase group size only when adult capacity, filtration and companion stock allow it.
Expect the shoal to spend most of its time at the surface and through the upper-middle water. Short chases, rapid turns and an enthusiastic feeding response are normal. Persistent isolation, clamped fins, gasping, repeated collisions, faded colour or one fish being driven continuously into a corner are not. Check water quality, group size, tank length and companion behaviour before assuming the fish simply has a difficult personality.
Mixing dispatch sizes can work, but use judgement. Add smaller fish only when no resident or companion can treat them as prey, and spread food so juveniles are not excluded. Rearranging a small amount of decor before introduction can interrupt established routes without removing the open swimming lane.
In nature, Devario malabaricus takes terrestrial insects, detritus and other available foods. In the aquarium, offer a varied omnivorous diet with a strong high-quality animal component. A good flake, small granule or floating pellet can form the staple, supported by frozen or live daphnia, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae and similar foods.
Choose pieces small enough to swallow cleanly. These fish often feed high in the water, but slow-sinking foods help spread the meal through the group. Scatter food along the tank instead of dropping everything into one corner. This reduces collisions and gives smaller or less assertive fish a fair chance.
| Food type | Role | How to use it |
|---|---|---|
| Quality flake or small granule | Balanced staple | Offer a measured portion on most days |
| Small floating or slow-sinking pellet | Alternative staple and controlled portioning | Match pellet size to the smallest fish in the group |
| Frozen daphnia or brine shrimp | Variety and natural feeding response | Thaw appropriately and distribute through the shoal |
| Mosquito larvae or similar insect food | Supports insect-feeding behaviour | Use as part of a varied rotation, not the sole diet |
| Occasional live food from a safe culture | Enrichment and conditioning | Avoid unknown wild sources that may introduce contaminants |
Feed one or two small meals daily, adjusting for temperature, fish size and body condition. A practical portion is what the group clears promptly without food settling and decaying. Enthusiastic behaviour is not proof that another meal is needed. Overfeeding increases waste, strains oxygen and filtration, and can leave the fish heavy-bodied rather than healthy.
Juveniles can take smaller, more frequent meals when the filter and maintenance routine can support them. Mature fish being conditioned for breeding benefit from varied frozen or live foods, but water quality remains the priority. Remove uneaten food and review the amount before adding more at the next meal.
FishBase records a common length around 8 cm and a maximum around 12 cm for Devario malabaricus. This is smaller than some older aquarium claims of 15 cm or more, but still large for a danionin and large enough to demand serious swimming room. Use 12 cm as the safe planning figure because husbandry should account for the largest plausible adult, not the average juvenile on sale.
The body is fusiform and built for current. Blue-green horizontal patterning flashes across silver-gold flanks, while the tail and fins reinforce the sense of speed. Colour intensity varies with sex, maturity, social state, diet, background and lighting. Fish may look paler after transport and usually regain stronger contrast as they settle into clean water with a secure group.
Mature females are generally deeper-bodied, particularly when carrying eggs. Males tend to remain slimmer and may appear more intensely coloured in breeding condition. Juveniles are difficult to sex reliably, and this listing does not promise a sex or ratio. A rounded female is carrying eggs rather than being pregnant; this is an egg-scattering species, not a livebearer.
The best companions are peaceful, confident fish that share the same water range and are not intimidated by rapid movement. Medium-sized rainbowfish, robust barbs, suitable loaches and sturdy bottom dwellers can work in a long, well-filtered aquarium. Stocking must be judged at adult size, and the combined group should still leave a clear swimming lane.
Active rainbowfish can be a good behavioural match where temperature and hardness overlap. The Lake Kutubu Rainbowfish is one possible comparison, but it has its own shoal and space requirements. A Rosy Barb group may also suit a spacious cooler community, provided both species have enough numbers and neither group dominates feeding.
Bottom dwellers use a different part of the aquarium, but that does not make them automatic matches. A Hillstream Loach appreciates oxygenated flowing water, while a robust Corydoras group may fit a quieter lower zone where temperature and substrate needs overlap. Never treat bottom space as unused capacity: each species still adds waste and requires floor area, food access and social numbers.
Avoid tiny fish that could be swallowed or repeatedly scattered, very slow and shy species, and ornamental long-finned fish likely to be stressed by the pace. Angelfish and fancy guppies are poor default recommendations because their fins and feeding style make the match unreliable. Highly territorial cichlids and large predators are unsuitable for more obvious reasons.
| Companion type | Suitability | Conditions |
|---|---|---|
| Medium active rainbowfish | Often suitable | Match temperature and hardness; provide enough room for both shoals |
| Robust medium barbs | Often suitable | Avoid known fin-nipping combinations and feed across a broad area |
| Suitable loaches | Conditional | Check adult size, group needs, oxygen and floor-space requirements |
| Robust Corydoras | Conditional | Use a smooth substrate, matched temperature and a proper Corydoras group |
| Small danios and rasboras | Usually avoid in the same display | The size and speed difference can create stress and feeding inequality |
| Angelfish and slow long-finned fish | Avoid as a default | Likely to be unsettled or outcompeted |
| Large predators or aggressive cichlids | Avoid | Predation and territorial aggression override the peaceful nature of the shoal |
A peaceful label is never enough by itself. Compare adult size, temperature, pH, hardness, current, swimming region, diet and feeding speed. Add the social minimum for every shoaling species, then check whether the aquarium still has real capacity. If in doubt, a single well-sized shoal with a compatible bottom group usually looks better and behaves more naturally than several undersized groups.
The Giant Danio is not simply a Zebra Danio scaled up. It needs a longer tank, has a much stronger feeding presence and is better suited to robust companions. A Pearl Danio and Celestial Pearl Danio occupy completely different roles, despite sharing part of the common name.
| Fish | Typical role | Adult planning size | Best suited to |
|---|---|---|---|
| Giant or Malabar Danio | Large, fast upper-water shoal | Up to about 12 cm | Long, oxygen-rich aquariums with robust companions |
| Orange Giant Danio | Related colour-form comparison | Confirm its individual listing | Keepers comparing colour and source grade within large danios |
| Pearl Danio | Smaller active community shoal | Much smaller than the Giant Danio | Moderate communities that still provide good swimming length |
| Celestial Pearl Danio | Tiny, shy planted-tank fish | About 2-2.5 cm | Calm, densely planted aquariums with gentle companions |
| Zebra Danio | Small, hardy and very active shoal | About 4-5 cm | Cooler community tanks with sufficient horizontal room |
Choose by behaviour and adult requirements, not by name alone. Someone wanting a subtle nano display should not buy a large danio because it is currently 2 cm. Conversely, a keeper with a long, mature river-style aquarium may find a small, shy species visually lost. Matching the fish to the space is more important than collecting every related form.
Devario malabaricus is an egg scatterer. In nature it spawns in shallow water among marginal weeds and roots, often after heavy rain. FishBase records more than 200 sticky, light-orange eggs, hatching in roughly one to two days, with fry becoming free swimming around the fifth day. Adults will eat eggs, so a deliberate breeding attempt needs protection for the spawn.
Use a separate, mature breeding aquarium with a mesh base, marbles, spawning mops or dense fine-leaved plants that let eggs fall out of reach. Condition healthy adults on varied food, provide clean oxygenated water and use gentle early light as a spawning cue. Remove the adults when spawning has finished.
Newly free-swimming fry need microscopic or very fine first foods before they can take newly hatched brine shrimp and larger prepared foods. Feed small amounts frequently while protecting water quality. A sponge-covered intake prevents fry being drawn into the filter. Frequent modest water changes and careful matching of temperature are safer than large corrections.
Breeding should not be attempted simply because adults are present. Plan space for growing juveniles, prepare food cultures in advance and decide where the young will live. The main display is unlikely to produce many survivors because adults and tank mates will consume eggs and fry.
Healthy fish are alert, streamlined and responsive, with clear eyes, open fins and a strong but controlled feeding response. The group should move through open water without one individual hanging behind. Colour can be subdued immediately after travel, but breathing should settle and posture should remain normal.
Common aquarium problems are not unique to this species: white spot, bacterial fin damage, internal wasting, injury and stress from poor water quality can all occur. Prevention is more reliable than routine medication. Quarantine new arrivals, keep ammonia and nitrite at zero, avoid sudden temperature or pH changes, feed a varied diet and do not overcrowd the tank.
| Sign | Possible concern | First checks |
|---|---|---|
| Gasping or gathering at the surface | Low oxygen, ammonia, nitrite or gill irritation | Test water immediately and increase safe aeration while finding the cause |
| Clamped fins and isolation | Stress, bullying, infection or unsuitable water | Check parameters, group dynamics and visible symptoms |
| White grains on body or fins | Possible white spot | Confirm diagnosis and treat the correct system at a safe dose |
| Frayed fins or missing scales | Collision, aggression or secondary infection | Inspect decor, lid, companions and water quality |
| Weight loss despite feeding | Competition, chronic stress or internal disease | Observe feeding access and seek an evidence-based diagnosis |
| Repeated jumping | Startle, aggression, poor water or unsecured environment | Secure the lid and review water, lighting and social pressure |
Do not medicate the display on guesswork. Some treatments reduce oxygen or harm invertebrates, plants and filter bacteria. Confirm the problem, read the full label and use a quarantine aquarium when appropriate. A qualified aquatic veterinarian is the best route for persistent or serious illness.
Prepare the aquarium before dispatch. On arrival, open the outer box promptly, keep lighting low and follow the current instructions supplied with the order. Equalise temperature with the sealed bag, then introduce aquarium water gradually as directed. Net the fish into the tank rather than pouring transport water into the display.
Release the group together, keep lights subdued for the rest of the day and offer only a small meal once the fish are settled. Watch breathing, balance and social behaviour. Avoid major maintenance, new tank mates or aggressive feeding changes during the first few days.
Select the required size first, then choose the number of fish. Each quantity is one fish, and the live purchase controls calculate the current total for that size and group. Because this is a shoaling species, plan for at least six rather than ordering a single fish for an empty tank. A single fish may be appropriate only when carefully adding to an established group.
New customers can use WELCOME10 for 10% off their first eligible order. Eligibility and current terms are applied at checkout. Livestock orders are packed for specialist UK delivery, and the delivery page gives the current dispatch schedule, postcode coverage and preparation advice.
Eligible livestock is covered by the Live Arrival Guarantee. If there is a problem on arrival, photograph the affected fish in the unopened sealed bag within two hours and contact us promptly so the case can be assessed for refund or replacement under the current terms. The returns and guarantee page is the source for the full policy.
The gallery shows the species, colour range and aquarium context. Living fish vary naturally, and the images do not promise the exact dispatched individual, sex, marking arrangement or colour intensity.
This listing is for Devario malabaricus, also called the Malabar Danio. The aquarium common name Giant Danio has historically been confused with Devario aequipinnatus, but the two are separate species. The product provenance and care profile here follow D. malabaricus.
One selected quantity means one fish in the chosen size option. Select the size first and then the number of fish. Keep at least six together unless you are adding a carefully matched individual to an established shoal.
Devario malabaricus is commonly around 8 cm and can reach about 12 cm. Plan the aquarium for the upper figure. A juvenile sold at 2 cm still needs the full adult tank length and social group.
Use at least about 200 litres with a frontage close to 120 cm for a group of six. A 300-litre or larger aquarium is preferable for eight to ten fish or a mixed community. Length and unobstructed swimming room matter as much as litres.
Six is a sensible minimum, while eight to ten often produces a stronger and calmer display when space permits. Do not increase the group beyond the aquarium's adult capacity simply to reach a visual target.
Maintain 18-25°C and avoid sudden changes. Choose a stable value that also suits every companion. Strong gas exchange becomes increasingly important toward the warm end of the range.
A practical range is pH 6.0-8.0 and about 2-15 dGH. Stable, clean water inside the shared range of the community is safer than repeatedly changing chemistry to pursue one exact number.
They are generally peaceful rather than territorial, but they are extremely active and boisterous. Slow, shy, tiny or long-finned companions may be stressed or outcompeted even when no deliberate attack occurs.
Consider medium-sized active rainbowfish, robust barbs, suitable loaches and sturdy bottom dwellers where adult size, temperature, hardness, flow and group requirements overlap. Avoid treating a generic community label as proof of compatibility.
It is not a preferred default combination. Angelfish are slower, long-finned feeders and may be unsettled by a fast danio shoal. A very large aquarium may reduce conflict, but there are more reliable companion choices.
Usually avoid the combination. The difference in adult size, speed and feeding pressure can stress small fish, and very tiny companions may eventually be treated as food. Build the community around similarly robust species.
Use a quality flake, small granule or pellet as the staple, with frozen or live daphnia, brine shrimp, mosquito larvae and similar foods for variety. Feed measured portions and spread food across the surface so the whole shoal can feed.
They appreciate moderate current and high oxygen, but the entire aquarium should not be a punishing jet. Create a moving upper-water lane, strong surface agitation and quieter margins around plants and hardscape.
Yes. Fit a tight lid and close every gap around cables, pipes and filter returns. Check the cover after maintenance. Floating plants may make the surface feel secure but cannot replace a physical lid.
They are physiologically hardy but best rated moderate overall because a proper group needs a long, well-filtered aquarium and careful companion choice. A beginner with a mature 200-litre-plus setup can succeed; a beginner with a small new tank should choose another species.
Mature females are usually fuller bodied, especially when carrying eggs, while males tend to be slimmer and may colour more strongly in breeding condition. Juveniles are difficult to sex, and no sex or ratio is guaranteed.
They scatter eggs among plants or over a protected base. Adults eat eggs, so breeders use a separate mature tank with mesh, marbles or spawning mops and remove the adults after spawning. Fry need very fine first foods and clean, stable water.
Eligible livestock orders are covered under the current guarantee. Photograph any affected fish in its unopened sealed bag within two hours of delivery and contact us promptly. Read the linked policy before dispatch for full eligibility and claim terms.
Browse the freshwater fish guide for wider community planning or compare the current range in Rasboras and Danios. For a related colour form, see the Orange Giant Danio. The buying live fish online guide explains preparation, packing and arrival in more detail.
Care ranges describe a safe planning envelope, not a substitute for testing the aquarium. Always reconcile the needs of the selected fish, the adult community and the actual water available in your home before ordering.