Wood / Bamboo Shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)

Recognise the Wood / Bamboo Shrimp

Wood / Bamboo Shrimp is Atyopsis moluccensis, an accepted freshwater shrimp species in the family Atyidae. The World Register of Marine Species places it within the decapod crustaceans and accepts the scientific name used here.

At genus level, the natural-history summary for Atyopsis describes freshwater shrimp from Southeast Asia. The genus was established in 1983 for two species formerly treated as Atya, with anatomical features separating the two genera. That background helps identify the animal without turning a regional genus description into an aquarium water prescription.

What this choice asks of the keeper

Choose this shrimp for an established aquarium where filtration, water testing and restrained feeding are already routine. The central decisions are practical: the biological filter must be mature, ammonia and nitrite must remain at 0 mg/L, every proposed fish must pass a predation screen, and any treatment used in the aquarium must be safe for invertebrates.

Keepers comparing freshwater invertebrates can also browse the shrimps and crustaceans collection. Compare care requirements rather than assuming that different shrimp share the same size, social or feeding needs.

Choose the dispatch size and purchase unit

One purchase quantity supplies one Wood / Bamboo Shrimp in the option selected. The live size selector shows three dispatch sizes: 2–3 cm, 4–5 cm and 5–7 cm. Select the grade you want there rather than using photographs to estimate the animal that will be sent.

The size you select is the size supplied, not the adult size. Treat each measurement as a dispatch description and plan future space around the animal’s continuing needs, filtration capacity and intended companions. A larger dispatch grade does not remove the need to screen every fish for predatory behaviour or the ability to swallow the shrimp.

Read the selector in three steps

1. Confirm the centimetre range. The lower and upper figures describe the selected dispatch grade.
2. Count purchase units. Quantity one means one animal; choose the quantity deliberately if planning more than one.
3. Check the whole aquarium plan. Match space, filter capacity, water values and companions before deciding how many animals to introduce.

Sex is guaranteed only when the selected option explicitly states male or female. This Wood / Bamboo Shrimp listing has no sex-guaranteed option.

The gallery images are representative of this type of animal rather than photographs of the exact animal supplied, so colours can look slightly different from the live animal.

For dispatch days, packing information and claim requirements, read the current delivery and Live Arrival Guarantee policy. Use that policy page for the terms that apply to an order rather than relying on a static summary.

Confirm the aquarium is ready before choosing

OATA’s freshwater shrimp and snail guidance gives 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0, general hardness of 4–18°dH and carbonate hardness of 3–15°dKH. These are broad group values rather than a species-specific optimum, so use them as the working envelope while keeping the aquarium stable.

Use the numbers as a decision gate

Test the aquarium before adding the shrimp. Ammonia or nitrite above 0 mg/L means the biological system is not meeting the stated target, so pause livestock additions and check filter function, stocking pace and feeding. Record the nitrate level of conditioned tap water as the baseline; the aquarium reading should not exceed that baseline by more than 20 mg/L.

Water values are only one part of readiness. The aquarium also needs an essential working filter, gravel or sand, and cover from plants or suitable ornaments. Larger aquariums generally provide more stable temperature and water quality, while an aquarium containing fish needs more space than a shrimp-only arrangement.

A suitable keeper can answer yes to each point

• The filter has been matured and is operating without blockages.
• Ammonia and nitrite test at 0 mg/L.
• The temperature, pH and hardness sit inside the working ranges.
• Proposed fish cannot swallow the shrimp and are not known predators.
• Weekly testing and a 25% partial water change fit the maintenance routine.
• Foods and treatments can be chosen with invertebrate safety in mind.

Build the aquarium around a mature filter

A filter is essential in every aquarium used for freshwater shrimp. Its mechanical role helps collect waste, but its biological role is the decisive one: beneficial bacteria process toxic ammonia into toxic nitrite and then into the safer nitrate stage.

The RSPCA’s explanation of aquarium filtration describes this waste-processing sequence and the importance of a well-established biological filter. Maturation means allowing that bacterial population to establish before livestock is introduced; it does not mean adding an animal to a newly filled aquarium and waiting for the filter to catch up afterwards.

Prepare before the shrimp arrives

1. Set up the complete aquarium. Install the filter, substrate and cover before livestock is considered.
2. Mature the biological filter. Give beneficial bacteria time to establish through an appropriate aquarium-maturation process.
3. Test the result. Ammonia and nitrite must both read 0 mg/L before introduction.
4. Check water against the working range. Record temperature, pH, general hardness, carbonate hardness and tap-water nitrate.
5. Plan gradual additions. Every increase in livestock and feeding creates more waste for the bacterial population to process.

Our shrimp-keeping guide can help organise the preparation and maturation stages before an animal arrives. Complete those stages first, then use measured water results rather than the aquarium’s age alone as the readiness test.

Protect the biological filter

Check the filter for blockages as part of weekly maintenance. When the media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in aquarium water removed during a partial water change. Do not rinse it beneath tap water because chlorine or chloramine may kill part of the beneficial bacterial population.

Stocking too quickly can create new tank syndrome when the established bacteria cannot process the increased waste. Prevent that problem by adding animals slowly, controlling food and continuing weekly tests. A filter that worked for the previous livestock load needs time to respond when the load increases.

Use measured water values instead of guesswork

Keep temperature between 17°C and 27°C, pH between 6.5 and 8.0, general hardness between 4°dH and 18°dH, and carbonate hardness between 3°dKH and 15°dKH. Aim for stability within those working ranges rather than allowing readings to move repeatedly between their limits.

Ammonia and nitrite each have a target of 0 mg/L. Nitrate should not exceed 20 mg/L above the normal level in the tap water used for the aquarium. This makes the tap-water reading part of the calculation rather than treating one fixed nitrate number as suitable for every household.

Calculate the nitrate ceiling

For example, if conditioned tap water tests at 8 mg/L nitrate, adding the permitted difference of 20 mg/L gives an aquarium ceiling of 28 mg/L. Continue testing at least weekly because feeding, stocking and filter performance can change the aquarium reading.

Turn every test into an action

• Ammonia or nitrite above 0 mg/L: pause livestock additions, inspect the filter for blockage and review whether feeding or stocking increased too quickly.
• Nitrate approaching its calculated ceiling: check the maintenance log and complete the scheduled partial water change with conditioned replacement water.
• A value outside the working range: compare the aquarium, tap-water and recent maintenance readings before making further livestock decisions.
• Stable readings: continue the same testing and maintenance routine rather than reducing checks because one result looked good.

Use our water-chemistry guide to understand what each measurement means, then enter the measured results into the water matcher for a direct comparison with the stated range. Keep a dated log so changes can be connected to feeding, maintenance or new livestock.

Choose space for stability and cover

Aquarium volume should be chosen around the whole plan: the number of animals, whether fish will share the aquarium, the amount of cover and the filter’s capacity. Favour more space where practical because a larger aquarium generally holds temperature and water quality more steadily.

The freshwater-invertebrate guidance uses an aquarium of at least 10 litres for a group of small shrimp or snails and approximately 20 litres for larger examples such as Amano shrimp. It also says the aquarium must be larger when fish are included. Use those figures as comparison points while selecting an aquarium around this shrimp’s complete long-term arrangement, not as a reason to squeeze it into the smallest container.

Build the interior before introduction

• Use aquarium gravel or sand. The substrate creates a complete aquarium floor and allows solid waste to be removed with a siphon during maintenance.
• Add live plants where practical. OATA recommends them as cover within freshwater shrimp aquariums.
• Provide alternatives when live plants are not used. Plastic plants and suitable ornaments can supply shelter; examples include plant pots or model caves intended for aquarium use.
• Keep the filter accessible. Its intake, outlet and media must remain easy to inspect for blockages and clean correctly.

Do not let the selected dispatch size become the sole space calculation. The 2–3 cm, 4–5 cm and 5–7 cm options describe the animal at dispatch, while aquarium planning must also account for continued care, cover, companions and stability.

Feed a controlled freshwater-shrimp routine

Use the general freshwater-shrimp feeding routine as the starting point: provide algae wafers or commercial pellets made for freshwater shrimp. Freshwater shrimp are generally described as herbivorous grazers that eat aquarium algae, but supplementary food is still recommended to make sure they receive enough.

Feed two or three times a week. Leave pellets or wafers for at least 30 minutes so the shrimp has time to feed. Avoid adding food every day by habit because excess food can remain in the aquarium, break down and release toxic waste into the water.

Set portions through observation

1. Offer one controlled portion. Use an algae wafer or commercial freshwater-shrimp pellet rather than mixing several unmeasured foods.
2. Allow at least 30 minutes. Do not judge the portion before the stated feeding period has passed.
3. Inspect what remains. Uneaten food accumulating after feeding shows that the next portion should be smaller.
4. Watch water tests. A change in ammonia, nitrite or nitrate can reveal that feeding and biological capacity are no longer balanced.
5. Keep the weekly schedule. Two or three planned feeds make it easier to connect food input with test results and maintenance.

Do not rely on the shrimp’s reputation for grazing as a substitute for planned feeding. Equally, do not add extra food simply because algae is difficult to see. Use the stated foods, frequency, 30-minute observation period and weekly water results together.

Food choice must also protect water quality. A mature filter processes waste, but it does not make overfeeding harmless. Controlled portions reduce the amount of uneaten material that can decay and help keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/L.

Complete the weekly maintenance cycle

Carry out a partial water change of 25% at least once every week. Treat replacement tap water with a suitable conditioner before it enters the aquarium so chlorine or chloramine cannot harm the livestock or the beneficial bacteria in the filter.

Calculate 25% before starting

These examples show the calculation rather than minimum aquarium recommendations. Multiply the aquarium’s actual water volume by 0.25, prepare that amount of conditioned replacement water and record the change in the maintenance log.

Use one maintenance sequence

1. Test ammonia, nitrite and nitrate before the change so the result describes the aquarium before maintenance.
2. Record temperature, pH and hardness often enough to recognise movement away from the working range.
3. Siphon solid waste from the gravel or sand while removing 25% of the water.
4. Inspect the filter for blockages and reduced operation.
5. If the media needs cleaning, rinse it lightly in the removed aquarium water rather than beneath the tap.
6. Add the conditioned replacement water and record the completed work.

Test the aquarium at least once a week even when it looks clear. Clear water does not show whether ammonia and nitrite are at 0 mg/L or whether nitrate is approaching the limit calculated from the tap-water baseline.

Invertebrates are very sensitive to copper and will die after exposure even to low levels. Check every medication or treatment before use and choose only one explicitly described as safe for invertebrates. This rule applies to the shared aquarium, not only to products marketed for shrimp.

Consistency makes changes easier to interpret. When tests are taken on the same day each week and the same percentage is changed, a shift in readings can be compared with recent feeding, livestock additions or filter maintenance rather than treated as an isolated number.

Introduce slowly and watch for change

Before introducing the shrimp, confirm that the aquarium is appropriately sized for the complete stocking plan, the biological filter is mature, and ammonia and nitrite both test at 0 mg/L. Check temperature, pH and hardness against the working ranges and record the results.

Increase livestock numbers slowly. Every new animal and every increase in feeding creates more waste, while the beneficial bacterial population needs time to expand. Several additions made together can overwhelm that capacity and lead to new tank syndrome, with unhealthy ammonia or nitrite levels.

Use a first-week checkpoint

• Before introduction: test ammonia and nitrite, inspect the filter and confirm that cover is in place.
• After introduction: observe activity, colour, hiding, breathing effort, appearance and feeding without making another immediate livestock addition.
• At feeding time: use the controlled two-or-three-times-weekly routine and allow at least 30 minutes.
• At the weekly checkpoint: repeat water tests, calculate nitrate against the tap-water baseline and complete the 25% partial water change.

Recognise changes that need attention

Watch for increased inactivity, restlessness, unusual behaviour, darker or paler colour, more hiding, altered breathing rate or effort, time spent in areas with higher oxygen levels, white spots, discolouration, lesions, abnormal growths, exoskeleton damage, lost appendages, weight change, swelling or reduced interest in food.

A change is a prompt to inspect the whole system. Test ammonia and nitrite first, compare nitrate with its calculated ceiling, check the filter for blockage, review recent feeding and consider whether any treatment or chemical entered the aquarium. Do not add medication unless it is explicitly safe for invertebrates.

If you are concerned about a health change, contact us with the measured water values, aquarium volume, stocking list, feeding routine and a description of what changed. Concrete observations and test results make the next welfare decision more useful than a general statement that the shrimp looks different.

Use the first month to establish a baseline

Keep dated notes on normal activity, colour, hiding and food response alongside the weekly test results. Individual animals can vary, so the most useful comparison is between the shrimp’s usual pattern and a clear new change.

Screen every proposed tank mate for predation

Freshwater shrimp may be eaten by common aquarium fish. Avoid any fish able to fit the shrimp in its mouth and avoid any species known to be predatory. Apply both tests to every proposed companion rather than relying on a broad community label.

Use a two-part screening rule

1. Can the fish swallow the shrimp? If the answer is yes, do not combine them.
2. Is the species known to be predatory? If the answer is yes, do not combine them.

A fish that passes one part still has to pass the other. A small predator remains a predator, while a fish not described as predatory may still be unsuitable if the shrimp can fit in its mouth. Repeat the assessment for the animal’s planned aquarium arrangement rather than judging from a photograph.

Passing the predation screen is not the end of compatibility planning. Compare the companion’s water requirements with 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0 and the stated hardness ranges. Make sure the complete stocking plan can maintain ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/L and keep nitrate within 20 mg/L of the normal tap-water level.

Include physical cover through plants or suitable ornaments, but do not treat hiding places as permission to add a predator. Cover supports the aquarium arrangement; it does not cancel the mouth-size or predatory-species exclusions.

A proposed companion outside those clear exclusions still needs an individual assessment for space, water and stocking load. For a stocking and compatibility assessment, send us the exact species, approximate sizes, aquarium volume and measured water values.

Plan groups around filter capacity and space

OATA describes shrimp species as usually social, but a group must still fit the aquarium’s space, filtration and maintenance capacity. Plan the number through those limits rather than choosing an arbitrary count that ignores the rest of the livestock.

Build the plan in order

1. Set the aquarium capacity. Account for the filter, substrate, cover and the greater space needed when fish are included.
2. Apply the predation screen. Remove fish able to swallow the shrimp and all species known to be predatory.
3. Compare water requirements. Every inhabitant must fit the working temperature, pH and hardness plan.
4. Stage livestock additions. Add animals slowly so beneficial bacteria can increase as waste and feeding increase.
5. Check the results. Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/L and test at least weekly.

Do not assume another shrimp or snail is automatically compatible simply because it is also an invertebrate. The aquarium still has finite space and biological capacity, and each animal adds to feeding and waste. Apply the same water and stocking assessment to mixed-invertebrate arrangements.

When increasing the number of shrimp, keep the established feeding schedule and judge portions through the 30-minute observation period. More animals may change food use and waste production, so let water tests determine whether the biological system is coping before making another addition.

Copper sensitivity applies to every inhabitant sharing the water. Check treatments for explicit invertebrate safety even when the treatment is intended for a fish companion.

Answer common questions before choosing

What is Wood / Bamboo Shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)?

It is an accepted freshwater shrimp species in the family Atyidae. At genus level, Atyopsis is associated with Southeast Asia.

How many Wood / Bamboo Shrimp does one purchase supply?

One purchase supplies one animal of the selected option. Check the live size selector for the option you want.

Which dispatch sizes can I choose for Atyopsis moluccensis?

The size options are 2–3 cm, 4–5 cm and 5–7 cm. They are dispatch measurements and should not be treated as adult length.

What setup does Wood / Bamboo Shrimp need?

Use a mature aquarium with essential filtration, gravel or sand, and live plants or suitable artificial cover. Keep ammonia and nitrite at 0 mg/L.

Should this shrimp be kept alone or in a group?

OATA says shrimp species are usually social. Plan any group around aquarium space and filter capacity, then add animals slowly so the biological filter can adjust.

What water values should I use for this shrimp?

Broad freshwater-shrimp guidance uses 17–27°C, pH 6.5–8.0, 4–18°dH general hardness and 3–15°dKH carbonate hardness; ammonia and nitrite should be 0 mg/L.

What should I feed this shrimp?

Use algae wafers or commercial freshwater-shrimp pellets as the general baseline, two or three times a week. Allow at least 30 minutes for feeding and avoid excess food.

How should I introduce this shrimp?

Before introduction, confirm that the aquarium is appropriately sized, the filter is mature, and ammonia and nitrite are 0 mg/L. Add livestock slowly rather than making several additions together.

Which tank mates can live with Atyopsis moluccensis?

Avoid fish able to fit the shrimp in their mouth and species known to be predatory. Assess every other proposed companion against aquarium space, water values and the same predation screen.

Check the reference library

• World Register of Marine Species: accepted scientific name, family and taxonomic placement.
• Wikipedia, Atyopsis: genus history and Southeast Asian freshwater context.
• Ornamental Aquatic Trade Association: freshwater shrimp and snail water, feeding, maintenance, introduction and compatibility guidance.
• RSPCA: biological filtration and aquarium waste processing.
• Tropical Fish Co delivery policy: dispatch days, Live Arrival Guarantee and claim information.